A Taberna da Rua das Flores
2017 Quinta da Lapa Reserva Brut Nature Vinho Espumante
Sourdough, Rye Bread, Olives, Chef’s Olive Oil
Tomatoes from Chef’s Garden, Fleur de Sel, Housemade Vinegar
3 year old Oyster Tartare, Goat’s Cheese Whey, Seaweed from the Oyster’s environment
Scallop, Fermented Seaweed, White Miso Butter
Mussels in their own Juice, Lemon
Padron Peppers from Chef’s Garden, Olive Oil, Garlic, Fleur de Sel
2019 Quinta da Lapa Alvarinho
Raw Marlin, Cabbage, Kimchi Sauce
Mackerel Tartare, Krill, Bell Pepper, Celery, Green Apple
2019 Vitor Claro Colar Dominó Branco
Tuna Tataki, Apple, Watercress
Grilled Lettuce, Housemade Garam, Sardine
Conch, Sake, Herbs from Chef’s Garden
2018 Espera Castelão
Frog’s Legs, Sweet Potato Starch Batter, Coriander Sauce
Sweet Potato Greens, Peanut Satay
Tapioca, Sheep’s Cheese, Goat’s Cheese, Spicy Tomato Jam
Fried Eggplant, Sugarcane Molasses, Pomegranate
Beef Tartare, Black Garlic Mayo, Pork Crackling
Fried Iberian Black Pig Pork Rib, Kurobuta-style Sauce, Lime
Northern Portuguese Pork, Sea Lettuce Powder
Goat Cheese Brulee, Figs
Serving Lisbon for ten years, and consistently full despite a no reservations policy, A Taberna da Rua das Flores takes Portuguese Ingredients seriously. So seriously, in fact, that Chef and owner André Magalhães sources much from his own gardens, makes his own Olive Oil and only sells Wines from local vineyards including those of his wife. What all this means for those lucky enough to get a seat is wonderful food with context but no pretense, and a global perspective derived from Andre’s travels atop an encyclopedic knowledge of the country he calls home.
Not far from Largo do Chiado, a cash-only policy and long lines justified by prices far outpaced by Products, décor is reminiscent of old Taverns while the chalkboard menu changes daily such that there are virtually no “daily” dishes.
A self-taught Chef, though various stages in Michelin-starred Kitchens have given Magalhães an uncanny knack for showcasing Portugal’s bounty, dinner begins with Bread and Olives followed by whatever is freshest at the market that morning.
Difficult to highlight just one dish, this day’s menu unlikely to ever be replicated again, early highlights included an elderly Oyster served alongside Seaweed foraged with it followed by a lightly poached Scallop and raw Marlin nearly orange in color thanks to its diet of Langoustines.
Pouring Wine at fair prices, a crisp White holing its own against Grilled Lettuce topped in Sardines plus intense Garam, whole Conch proved a very special treat before moving on to crunchy Frog’s Legs in Sweet Potato Starch and an African Satay atop the Greens.
Serving 2018 Espera Castelão prior to a fried Cube of Cheese, the smoke exaggerating spicy Tomato Jam, Cherry became more prominent with Eggplant sticks followed by Beef Tartare and a decadent Pork Rib.
Not forgetting Taberna da Rua das Flores’ Mackerel Tartare, a “signature” that André admits changes regularly, one might be surprises how well powdered Sea Lettuce pairs with roast Pig, and to finish do be sure to ask for Goat Cheese Brulee with Figs if it is available.
www.tberna.com
