Monzú Italian Oven + Bar
Squash Blossoms – Ricotta, Mint, Pecorino
Polpettine – Meatballs, Lemon Leaf, Pecorino
Olive Ascolane – Mixed Meat and Soffritto stuffed Green Olives
Aspic di Pomodoro con Fettunta – Heirloom Tomato Aspic, Grilled Bread, Sweet Basil, Garlic
Monzú Artisanal Sourdough Bread Tasting – Cultured Butter, Anchovy, Caciocavallo, Pomodoro
Ravioli con Radicchio – Grilled Radicchio & Mascarpone Filling, Orange Butter, Aceto Balsamico Manodori
Spaghetti alla Chittara “Mare e Monti” – Squid Ink Spaghetti, Mussels, ‘Nduja, Corn Crema
Vegas Meets Italy Pizza – Scamorza, Ricotta, Pistachio, Dates, Tomatoes, Arugula, Prosciutto, Date Cream / ‘Nduja Pizza – Mozzarella, Gorgonzola, ‘Nduja, Walnuts, Honey
Crespelle al Forno – Crepe Lasagna, Meat Sauce, Bechamel, Peas, Eggs
Involtini di Pesce Spada e Melanzane – Swordfish and Eggplant Roulade, Currants, Heirloom Tomatoes, Shaved Fennel
Torta di Limone all’Olio d’Oliva – Lemon Crema, Olive Oil Gelee, Vanilla Mascarpone, Whipped Cream
Granita di Anguria – Watermelon Shaved Ice, Citrus Curd, Pistachio, Borage Flowers, Watermelon Foam
Sfingi di San Giuseppe – Ricotta, Honey, Orange Zest
Semifreddo Affogato – Cocoa Sable ‘Gelato,’ Coffee Tuile, Espresso
Double Espresso – Ice
Inhabiting the former Nora’s space since March of 2018, Phase 2 of Nevada’s reopening finds Pizzeria Monzú rebranded as Monzú Italian Oven + Bar, Chef Giovanni “Gio” Mauro recently partnering with James Beard Foundation Semi-finalist Nicole Brisson to expand on a concept many already consider to be one of Las Vegas’ very best.
Named for an old Sicilian term of reverence, and rightfully serving “Authentic Sicilian-Inspired Cuisine” per the Restaurant’s website, guests may recall Gio not only as a son of the family that operated Nora’s for decades, but also for North Las Vegas’ Old School Pizzeria where Mauro’s “respect for ingredients” philosophy has been on display since 2011.
Inhabiting two-stories at 6020 West Flamingo Road, hours from 4:00pm until 10:00pm Wednesday through Sunday finding tables well-spaced in full view of the kitchen, it after a quick temperature check that masked patrons are granted entry, service predictably professional yet friendly though management’s decision to allow one employee to work with shield and no mask is unfortunate.
Playing a mix of music overhead, just loud enough to drown the din without being obtrusive, it was after perusing Food and Beverage options that Chef Brisson was given carte blanche, a mix of Gio’s classics and plates inspired by “Female Chefs who have influenced our cooking” marching out in four courses over 120 minutes.
Committed to seasonality, and eschewing commercial Yeast in favor of natural fermentation utilizing a starter derived from Apricots alongside 300+ years of tradition that began on the Island of Ischia, dinner commenced with a pitcher of Cocktails alongside three “Taverna Snacks,” fried Olives salty but balanced while Meatballs wrapped in Lemon Leaves and stuffed Squash Blossoms tasted precisely like something one might find in Naples.
Next taking a look at Monzú’s Bread, first topped with a vibrant Tomato Terrine from the August “Four Course Chef’s Tasting,” suffice it to say Chef Brisson’s considerable knowledge of Italian cuisine shines through in everything she touches, Ravioli con Radicchio assertively bitter but still accessible while Spaghetti alla Chittara “Mare e Monti” brings the fire with imported ‘Nduja finding its foil in naturally sweet Corn Crema.
Slowly savoring Monzú Artisanal Sourdough Bread Tasting, warm with Butter followed by garlicky grilled slices topped in Anchovies and Pizza-like wedges with a developed cornicione, the actual Pizza at Monzú follows Roman “Pizza alla Pala” ideals, high-hydration and lengthy fermentation creating a crisp base and easy digestibility with pronounced yeastiness.
Splitting one Pie into two of a dozen Topping-combinations, spicy Calabrian Sausage smartly accented by Honey and Blue, those seeking something even more unique will no doubt find it in “Vegas Meets Italy Pizza” where dueling Cheeses form a soft backdrop to Pistachios, Dates, Tomatoes, Prosciutto and Arugula.
Not about to miss Gio’s Crespelle al Forno, its multitude of layers lacking the tooth of traditional Lasagna and instead eating like a cloud of Meat, Cheese and Sauce, August’s “Involtini di Pesce Spada e Melanzane” stands out with inspiration from Nora Mauro as firm flesh comes across moist yet flavorful with a faint bit of sweetness to counter the bold aromatics of Fennel.
Turning Desserts over to former Joel Robuchon Pastry Chef Nicholas Forte, a quartet of items running the gamut from modern to tradition, those who don’t love Coffee will probably want to skip Semifreddo Affogato that comes with a tableside shot of Espresso, and even though it is indeed good this riff on Tiramisu nonetheless falls short of classic Sfingi stuffed with Ricotta Cream as well as seasonal Lemon Cake and the refreshingly light “Granita di Anguria.”
FOUR AND A HALF STARS: Familiar with Chef Giovanni “Gio” Mauro’s work at Old School Pizzeria in North Las Vegas, it was after five months of self-imposed restrictions that dining out resumed on Thursday, and with Chef Nicole Brisson currently offering a hand Monzú Italian Oven + Bar proved a worthy contender in any discussion of Sin City’s best Italian Restaurant.
RECOMMENDED: Polpettine, Aspic di Pomodoro con Fettunta, Monzú Artisanal Sourdough Bread Tasting, Spaghetti alla Chittara “Mare e Monti,” Vegas Meets Italy, Crespelle al Forno, Sfingi di San Giuseppe.
AVOID: N/A.
TIP: Dine-in available from 4:00pm until 10:00pm Wednesday through Sunday with reservation, or Curbside pickup and No-contact delivery during similar hours facilitated by GrubHub.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
www.monzulv.com
