La Tasqueria de Javi Estevez
Sourdough, Cereal Bread, Olive Oil
Anchovy Skin, Beef Tongue, Chocolate Foie Macaron
Partridge Pate, Apple, Pork Tongue, Toast
Sweetbread Ravioli, Bolognese, Bechamel
Duck Heart, Corn
Beef Tripe
Spanish Cheeses
Lemon Pie, Mango Ice Cream
Billed as “Offal haute cuisine with a laid-back, casual touch” La Tasquería de Javi Estévez has made a big enough name for itself to earn accolades from Michelin, no small feat considering the modest products nor low prices for a seven-course tasting menu.
Opened in February 2015 as something of a love letter to Spanish Gastronomy, awards at Madrid Fusión followed by Bib Gourmand status and subsequently the first star, 2021 sees La Tasquería still trailblazing in an attempt to reinvent “Offal’s elegant side.”
All wood around an open kitchen, Spanish-exclusive service an oddity in such an acclaimed space, it was seated next to two Americans that the €55 menu was selected, an attempt to order the Suckling Pig’s Head refuted as the €75 menu is designed for two persons even though this diner was happy to pay extra.
Not busy until around 21:30, typical of Spain regardless of Restaurant, dinner began with Bread and Snacks, the former nothing to brag about save for excellent Olive Oil while the night’s opening trio spanned the palate from crunchy Anchovy Skin to silky Beef Tongue and an unctuous Foie Gras Macaron.
Rooted in tradition but driven by technique, Partridge Pate finding its foil in Apple and Pork Tongue spread on Toast, Sweetbread Ravioli features delicate handmade Pasta and intense Bolognese with a bit of Bechamel to soften the funk.
Lacking lengthy descriptions due to the language barrier, though Duck Heart and Corn needed no introduction amidst flawless Bordelaise, Tripe comes in a sizable portion with textbook texture and the sort of aromatics that could make a fan out of the timid.
Only able to identify two of four Cheeses by taste and eyes, with the Blue undeniably strong, La Tasquería’s menu ended with Lemon Curd and Meringue atop Graham Cracker Crumbles plus Mango Ice Cream on the side.
www.latasqueria.com