Esther’s Kitchen
Chef’s Spread with all the things – Housemade Sourdough Bread + Basil Ricotta, Basil Oil, Herbs + Cambozola, Blue Cheese, Walnut, Pickled Grapes + Beet Conserva, Saba, Capers, Calabrian Peppers + ‘Nduja, Calabrian Salami, Chili Oil + Burrata, Chives, Basil, Sea Salt + Anchovy Butter, Capers, Parsley + Cannellini Beans, Lardo, Speck, Pistachio Oil + Fegatini, Chicken Liver, Foie Gras, Saba, Strawberry + Butter, Olive Oil, Black Pepper
Duck Crespelle – Mushroom Ricotta, Crispy Duck Confit, Veloute, Chives
Beef Cheek Arancini – Celery Root, Fontina, Red Wine Jus, Horseradish
Winter Squash Salad – Fall Herb Salad, Smoked Speck, Black Walnuts
Tagliatelle – Lamb Shank Ragu, Red Wine, Mint, Chili, Pine Nut
Mafaldine Nero – Maine Lobster, Fennel, Truffle Butter, Preserved Lemon
Tortellini – Long Stem Broccoli, Pork Truffle Sugo, Pecorino
Ricotta Gnudi – Roasted Beets, Pistachio Pesto, Sorrel, Basil
Mushroom Risotto – Mushroom Puree, Garlic, Chives, Pickled Mushrooms, Crispy Mushroom Chips
Jimenez Farms Goat – Swiss Chard, House Ground Polenta, Spicy Fennel Jam
Calabrian Octopus Stew – Clams, Chickpeas, Portuguese Sausage Ravioli, Tempura Fresno Chilis, Kale, Mustard Greens, Lardo Toast
Pine Nut Tart – Rosemary Ice Cream, Crumble
Chocolate Crepe Cake – Almonds, Black Cherries, Amaretto Fudge
Butterscotch Budino – Whiskey Caramel, Honeycomb, Whipped Cream
Amaro Meletti
Last visited long before COVID-19 altered the face of dining worldwide it was amidst a packed house that Esther’s Kitchen put on a show Wednesday evening, James Trees’ first Las Vegas Restaurant now firmly entrenched as a local icon and in many ways the catalyst to Main Street’s ongoing rejuvenation.
A smash hit from the start, 1130 South Casino Center Boulevard now a destination for locals and tourists alike, it was around 6:00pm that the space was found bustling, seats in the corner providing full views of the room and kitchen where Chef Trees and Stephen Lee took turns manning the pass.
Still offering great service, more refined than previously but without an ounce of pretense, it was after declining Cocktails that plates began to roll out slowly, Dylan Jobsz Sourdough “with all the things” a meal unto itself with highlights including funky Cambozola, intense Liver Mousse, house spicy Salami and Beans made creamier by Pork Fat.
Happy to see Esther’s Classics offered alongside seasonal items, Winter Squash Salad touching each part of the palate from bitter to sweet, Esther’s Duck Crespelle sells Confit in balance with Fungus and Cheese inside a dainty Crepe while Beef Cheek Arancini upgrade the usual Rice Ball while remaining light and virtually oilless.
Making no choice easy in terms of Pasta, the majority made on-site and several subject to change, Tagliatelle arrives perfect al dente beneath deeply flavored Lamb Shank Ragu while Mafaldine Nero does an impressive job in balancing naturally sweet Lobster with Fennel and Citrus atop a hint of Truffles.
More impressive with Tortellini, each stuffed sheet bursting to the tooth amidst ground Pork and Broccoli, Trees’ Ricotta Gnudi remains defiantly gorgeous with its “New Nordic” look while Vegan Risotto will fool even purists thanks to myriad textures such that no two bites are alike.
Rarely sold on Secondi in Italian Restaurants, but happy to make an exception for tender Goat atop Polenta with Oranges and Fennel, Calabrian Octopus Stew also outperformed high expectations thanks to tender Cephalopod set against Sausage-filled Pasta and cooking liquid imbued with Greens that ends up tasting a bit like Cioppino with more complexity.
Not neglecting the Lardo Toast brushed with Chiles, every bit used to sop up residual Broth, Dessert consists of Esther’s forever refining Butterscotch Budino plus an airy Crepe Cake and Nona-style Pine Nut Tart that wouldn’t be complete without a glass of Amaro.
FIVE STARS: While region and style obviously enters any conversation regarding “best Italian,” the experienced diner will quickly realize simply say that there aren’t many spots anywhere creating food as comforting yet creative as the team at Esther’s Kitchen under that umbrella. Call it modern, call it Cal-Italian or just call it one of Vegas’ best restaurants regardless of genre.
RECOMMENDED: Duck Crespelle, Tortellini, Ricotta Gnudi, Mushroom Risotto, Jimenez Farms Goat, Calabrian Octopus Stew, Pine Nut Tart, Butterscotch Budino, All the things – Literally and figuratively.
AVOID: N/A.
TIP: Parking in the Art’s District is a mess due to construction. Arrive early and check Main Street.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
www.estherslv.com
