Esther’s Kitchen
Housemade Sourdough Bread – Basil Ricotta, Basil Oil, Herbs + ‘Nduja, Calabrian Salami, Chili Oil + Burrata, Chives, Basil, Sea Salt + Anchovy Butter, Capers, Parsley + Cannellini Beans, Lardo, Speck, Pistachio Oil + Fegatini, Chicken Liver, Foie Gras, Saba, Strawberry + Butter, Olive Oil, Black Pepper
Big Eye Tuna Crudo – Tomato Colatura, Saffron Aioli, Charred Cucumber, Basil
Arancini Al’Amatriciana – Tomato, Pecorino, Guanciale, Chili
Jimenez Farms Goat – Swiss Chard, House Ground Polenta, Spicy Fennel Jam
Cauliflower Risotto – Roasted Garlic, Caramelized Cauliflower, Pickled Cauliflower, Chives
Butternut Squash Tortellini – Brown Butter, Hazelnut, Espresso, Creme Fraiche
Pasta Al Zucca – Pork Sausage Sugo, Broccoli Rabe, Smoked Tomatoes
Beef Cheek Agnolotti – Cacio e Pepe, Tokyo Turnips, Red Wine Reduction
Brussels Sprouts Pizza – Truffle Panna, Fontina, Fingerling Potato, Rosemary
Chocolate Crepe Cake – Almonds, Black Cherries, Amaretto Fudge
Butterscotch Budino – Whiskey Caramel, Honeycomb, Whipped Cream
Last visited in February it was amidst a packed house that Esther’s Kitchen again put on a show Wednesday evening, James Trees’ first Las Vegas Restaurant now firmly entrenched as a local icon and in many ways the catalyst to Main Street’s ongoing rejuvenation.
A smash hit from the start, 1130 South Casino Center Boulevard now a destination for locals and tourists alike, it was around 6:00pm that the space was found bustling, seats in the corner providing full views of the room and kitchen where Chef Trees and Stephen Lee took turns manning the pass.
Still offering smooth service, more refined than previously but without an ounce of pretense, it was after declining Cocktails that plates began to roll out slowly, Dylan Jobsz Sourdough “with all the things” a meal unto itself with highlights including mineral-forward Mousse, house spicy Salami and Beans made creamier by Pork Fat.
Happy to see Esther’s Classics offered alongside seasonal items, Tuna Crudo balancing bright Tomatoes with grilled Cucumber, Cauliflower Risotto shows the Crucifer for all its worth while Al’Amatriciana Arancini upgrade the usual Rice Ball in a manner that is light and oilless.
Making no choice easy in terms of Pasta, the majority made on-site and several subject to change, Pumpkin Noodles arrive perfect al dente beneath deeply flavored Pork and Rabe alongside Beef Cheek Agnolotti that finds layers of flavor in reduced Wine, Turnips and Cheese.
More impressive with Tortellini, each stuffed sheet bursting to the tooth amidst Hazelnuts, Butter and a hint of Coffee, this season’s Pizza shows off Brussels Sprouts contrasting Potatoes before Trees’ Goat atop Polenta with Oranges and Fennel sets the bar for Las Vegas’ best Secondi a little higher.
A lot of Food for two, Dessert consisted of Esther’s forever refining Butterscotch Budino plus an airy Crepe Cake topped tableside in Black Cherries plus Fudge fortified by Amaretto.
FIVE STARS: I can count on one hand how many Las Vegas Restaurants stand up against the “best in class” nationwide. Esther’s Kitchen is one of them, and not just because the “cool food kids” say so. Its because these men and women legitimately seem to love what they’re doing. Chef Trees isn’t just touching the tables of “influencers,” but rather septuagenarians loving every bite. Chef Lee isn’t just cooking for “foodies,” yet the dishes remain inventive with tons of nuance. Dylan’s bread is still Sin City’s best, no contest, and you should be happy to pay so little for it. You don’t go here to compare with Italy, but head-to-head the technique is no less dialed in than Michelin starred spots on both sides of the Atlantic, and the service is far better.
RECOMMENDED: Housemade Sourdough Bread, Arancini Al’Amatriciana, Jimenez Farms Goat, Cauliflower Risotto, Butternut Squash Tortellini, Beef Cheek Agnolotti, Butterscotch Budino.
AVOID: N/A.
TIP: Parking in the Art’s District is a mess due to construction, and now comes with a cost. Arrive early and check Main Street.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
www.estherslv.com
