Bardot Brasserie
2015 Gerard Bertrand Cremant de Limoux Rose
Sainte-Luce Sling with Botanist Gin, Clement Canne Bleu, Agricole Blanc, Benedictine, Dry Cherry, Pineapple Soda, Lime, Angostura / Blue Hawaii with Grey Goose Vodka, Bacardi Superior, Bombay Gin, Blue Curacao, Pineapple, Lime, Simple Syrup
Bardot Baguette with Beurre d’echire A.O.C. and Sel Gris
Foie Gras Parfait with Chilled Mousse of La Belle Foie Gras, Fresh Cherries, Cherry Lambic, Huilerie Beaujolaise Cherry Vinegar, Sicilian Pistachios, Housemade Brioche
Charcuterie Board with Prosciutto di Parma, French Dry Salame, Country Pate, Pork Rillettes, Grilled Country Bread, House Mustard, Cornichons
Abacore Tuna, Brown Butter, Capers, Sel Gris, Dill
Chicken Liver, Cipollini Onions, Honey, Hen of the Woods Mushrooms
Brando’s Fried Chicken, Buttermilk
Black Cod, Young Leeks, Spinach, Sauce Anchois
Mediterranean Sea Bass en Croute, Yuzu Beurre Blanc, Zucchini
Gateau Banane, Salted Caramel Ice Cream
Cheesecake Mille Feuille with Graham Cracker, Puff Pastry, Cypress Grove Fromage Blanc, Harry’s Strawberries, Kumquat
Apricot Clafoutis, Crème de Noyaux Ice Cream
Having been fortunate enough to enjoy July 4th at Margeaux Brasserie it was on Bastille Day that the eleventh visit to Bardot Brasserie took place, and much as expected it was for the second time that a special event dinner from Chef Josh Smith and guests including Honeycut Los Angeles as well as Brandon Olsen of La Banane in Toronto did nothing but impress.
All decked for the Holiday with Mixologists from the red hot DTLA Club spinning tunes at the Bar, a more sedate scene found amidst tables and booths closer to the kitchen, it was seated and served by a woman named Kim that menus were presented, six items from Chef Olsen including one from a new concept in Canada available in addition to a few menu updates from team Mina.
A bit surprised to see a different server than usual, a question as to whether this was “your first visit to Bardot” almost as unexpected as her manner of leading guests to positive commentary when inquiring later about how things taste, it was after a few visits from familiar faces including a new General Manager imported from Jean-Georges Steakhouse that dinner got started, a glass of Bubbles quickly followed by Bardot’s Baguette and what many rightly consider one of the World’s best Butters wrapped in gold foil.
Indecisive as relates to Cocktails, two French Caribbean-inspired specials arriving just prior to course two, it was along with the Champagne that Meats both housemade and imported were enjoyed from Bardot’s Charcuterie board, the Pork Rilletttes and Pate again highlights while a new take on Foie Gras Mousse dialed up texture while still embracing a “Peanut Butter and Jelly” flavor, though the new housemade Brioche was unfortunately a bit thin and prone to crumbling when trying to spread the luxurious mixture.
Rounding out starters with Olsen’s warm tranche of Tuna, the surplus of Dill amidst Capers cooked in Butter adding great depth, it was as Elvis’ favorite mixed drink was bested by Honeycut’s take on a Singapoore Sling that two styles of Chicken were delivered from Olsen, the menu’s promise of “Liver & Onions” in reality referring to Chicken Liver Mousse lightly sweetened by Honey amidst Mushrooms and tender Cipollinis while fried Chicken from his Toronto pop-up soon to go brick & mortar delivered great crunch and a bold spice profile atop thin but tangy Sauce.
Returning to Fish as the night’s main course, the decision to match Black Cod with curls of vegetation to Sauce both bitter and briny a welcome change compared to many served sweeter than necessary, it was in “showstopper” fashion that whole Sea Bass was presented in Salt Cracker Crust before being carved, an addition of bright Citrus Cream showing La Banane knows its own right time and place to add an Asian ingredient instead of just following Nobu’s lead.
Never one to pass on Dessert at America’s best Brasserie, though apparently many were misguided enough to ignore Chef Smith’s traditional Mille-Feuille, it is now with Puff Pastry layers divided by Fromage Blanc designated as “Cheesecake” that guests will hopefully pay attention to unparalleled textural interplay while those not in attendance on this particular evening will need to go North for Olsen’s Banana-spiked Gateau Basque…or perhaps just stay here and enjoy the pitch-perfect Clafoutis seasonally updated with Apricot and Ice Cream made from Liquor infused by its Seeds.
FIVE STARS: Yet another excellent meal at Bardot Brasserie, even the variables of guest Chefs and a busy dining room thanks to the Holiday doing nothing to diminish a Restaurant that continues to evolve, anyone who thinks there is better Brasserie cuisine to be found in America likely has not yet seen Chef Smith’s cooking…though maybe a trip Toronto is due to make sure that applies to North America as a whole.
RECOMMENDED: Highlights were mostly Brandon’s considering the special event, though save for Brioche being cut too thin the meal was faultless.
AVOID: N/A.
TIP: New menu updates coming as soon as next week present yet another reason to plan a visit, whether the first or twelfth.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
www.michaelmina.net/restaurants/las-vegas/bardot-brasserie/
