Top of the World
Iced Tea
White Chocolate Brioche, Baguette, Butter
Lobster Bisque, Lobster Medallions, Chives, Sherry
Beets & Burrata, Wild Rocket Arugula, Ice Wine Vinaigrette, Pumpernickel Tuile
Tuna Tartare, Avocado, Onions, Capers, Pickled Wasabi, Tōgarashi, Potatoes Gaufrette
Warm Spinach Salad, Shallots, Apples, Pecans, Blue Cheese, Bacon Vinaigrette
Ricotta Cavatelli, Organic Mushrooms, Wagyu Beef, Horseradish Crema
Spaghetti Squash, Seasonal Vegetables, House Pomodoro, Basil
Chilean Sea Bass, Celery Root Puree, Mustard Greens, Bacon
Bone-In Veal Parm, Mozzarella, Pomodoro, Basil, Olive Oil
Center Cut Bone-In Ribeye, Rosemary, Peppercorn Sauce
Brussels Sprouts, Bacon, Caramelized Onions, Balsamic
Green Beans, Spiced Marcona Almonds, Brown Butter
Sweet Potato, Marshmallow, Apple, Local Honey, Pecans
Double Espresso, Ice
Bananas Foster, Caramelized Bananas, Almond Financier, Vanilla Ice Cream, Crispy Plantains
Spumoni, Cherry Ice Cream, Pistachio Ice Cream, Chocolate Ice Cream, Chocolate Shell, Whipped Cream, Kirsch Cherries
21 Layer Chocolate Cake, Chocolate Ganache, Whipped Cream
Anyone lucky enough to have tasted Pawan Pinisetti’s Food at Fiamma could have predicted his move to Top of the World Restaurant would elevate the tourist hotspot, but a look at new items on Saturday outperformed expectations from beginning to end as quality ingredients were presented in a manner that focused of flavors over fuss while the stunning view obviously didn’t hurt.
Found high atop The Stratosphere and previously visited for lunch, a 4:00pm arrival in December perfect for catching the sunset over Red Rock, it was seated in the rotating room that menus were presented and Drinks poured, Iced Tea all around and servers not only pleasant but efficient for a place that on some days does over one thousand covers.
Looking seasonally for his first menu change since taking the reins at Las Vegas’ 844 foot high space, Nikolus Pangonis and several others buying into Chef Pinisetti’s mantra of “simplicity done right,” it was beginning with new Bread service that improvement was first noted, the sweet Brioche a premium delivery mechanism for smooth Butter while crunchy Baguettes come in handy for mopping up Sauces, or in the case of course one every drop of slowly reduced Lobster Bisque.
Continuing with Salads and Appetizers, a ubiquitous Beet Salad here standing out thanks to firmed-up Burrata and semi-sweet Vinaigrette, those looking for something with a little more heft would do well to order warm Spinach topped in Bacon, Blue Cheese and Apples while fans of Tartar – even those who don’t typically like Tuna – will find themselves marveling at the silky texture and bold Asian spice profile created by pickled Wasabi and Togarashi.
Utilizing a fairly small kitchen for such a voluminous space, though new systems have created efficiency by which Pawan is able to make at least one Pasta on-site, it is taking inspiration from Prime Rib that braised Wagyu is served over tender noodles with Mushrooms and mellowed Horseradish while Vegans also get a nod from Spaghetti Squash dressed up in house Pomodoro that adds flavor without compromising texture like so many spiraled Squash Noodles.
Next taking a look at two specials, delicate Chilean Sea Bass given a boost but not overwhelmed by Celeriac and Greens cooked with Bacon, those seeking Beef won’t go wrong with either the aged American Ribeye nor off-menu Veal Parm pounded thin and cooked golden, though sides including shaved Brussels Sprouts and Thanksgiving-reminiscent Sweet Potatoes with Marshmallow Fluff, Raisins and Pecans attempt to steal the spotlight.
Having previously tasted several Desserts, and at this point quite full, it was alongside an iced Double Espresso that two novelties and one prior favorite were requested, the Spumoni given a bit of pop by Dark Chocolate Shell while Bananas Foster stands out thanks to dense Almond Cake and contrasting Plantain Chips, though it still cannot compete with what is to date Las Vegas’ tallest and most well composed Chocolate Cake.
FOUR AND A HALF STARS: Limited by clientele more than anything else, the posing by windows and cell-phone flashes a constant reminder that Top of the World must remain accessible to anyone with the means, it is nonetheless fortunate that under Chef Pinisetti the Food now matches spectacular views, and as long as things at Golden Entertainment continue to progress as they are that could mean a return to relevance for The Stratosphere to locals as well as tourists.
RECOMMENDED: White Chocolate Brioche, Lobster Bisque, Tuna Tartare, Warm Spinach Salad, Spaghetti Squash, Bone-In Veal Parm, Sweet Potato, Bananas Foster, 21 Layer Chocolate Cake.
AVOID: Green Beans were forgettable and Spumoni is fine, though the extra dollars for Baked Alaska are justified.
TIP: As above, Sea Bass and Veal Parm were specials and may not always be available.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
www.stratospherehotel.com/Food-Drink/Top-of-the-World
