Without a written menu or English-fluency Paçacı Necip Usta is without question a locals’ spot, the small confines open from 05h00 daily so that guests can get their fill of various Soups at whatever time suits them.
Featuring a small kitchen and just five tables, ordering done at the counter and payment on exit, Thursday’s Soup of the day was aromatic Okra with a slightly sour finish plus a basket of soft Bread followed by Cold Kadayif in sweetened Milk with Walnuts.
As Turkey’s most-awarded Restaurant TURK and Chef Fatih Tutak carry a heavy burden, the $250USD Tasting Menu well out of the range of most locals in an economy down nearly 50% after COVID.
Opened in 2019, the then-34 year old Tutak fresh from stints at noma as well as Nihonryori Ryugin, TURK serves an author’s cuisine rooted in Istanbul, though freely implementing products from local traders so long as they are sustainable.
Set around an open kitchen the menu occurs in 13 courses, each technique-driven but not overly complicated with many truly outstanding and not one falling short in its intent.
In many ways a celebration of Turkish geography, Tutak clearly proud of his culture as guests at the counter watch every step of the action, flavors range from assertive Dill to Shrimp in the style of Menemen with techniques such as fermentation and modernism administered for taste and function rather than showmanship.
Not afraid to have fun with a torched “Birthday Cake” made from Mushrooms, before a serious piece of aged Turbot and Razor Clams, Dessert starts at the table before diners are invited to the kitchen for three more bites including made-to-order Lokum served directly from the Pastry Chef.
Serving Sultanahmet since 1961 Çiğdem Pastanesi sees its fair share of locals and tourists, a wide selection of sweets and savories similar to other local spots luring guests in where a tight space is found decorated with aged wood and iron.
Surprisingly limited in English, uncommon on the street between Hagia Sophia and the Grand Bazaar, prices are a bit higher than Patisserie further from city-center while the products themselves are fair-to-middling and highlighted by Syrup-soaked Halka Tatlisi with Jam at the center.
With just six items on the menu Şehzade Cağ Kebap is nevertheless perpetually busy, the frenetic pace of nearby streets creating a scene quite unlike many while guests sit down to enjoy what many consider to be Istanbul’s best Lamb Kebap.
Serving Erzurum-style Lamb from a jumbo-size horizontal spit, the lengthy marinade assuring every bit is juicy save for crispy bits kissed by flame, additions include fiery peppers plus cooling Yogurt and sliced Onions intended to be eaten on paper-thin Lavash.
Also offering crushed Tomatoes and Salad for 40 Lira, and housemade Soup for those in the mood, service is fast paced such that a meal lasts perhaps thirty minutes but that certainly isn’t a reason to forgo stuffed Kadayif featuring Honey and Walnuts and a compelling texture.
Located not far from Karaköy Güllüoğlu is Köşkeroğlu Karaköy, to many the only competitor for best Baklava though Köşkeroğlu’s collection spans larger including not just standards featuring Walnuts or Pistachios but also Rice Pudding, Asure Pudding and packaged goods.
Actually two separate spaces, one selling Kebap and traditional Turkish Food with the other specializing in Dessert, it is inside the latter that several counters are found covered in Phyllo wrapped around everything from ground Beef in the case of Borek or loaded with Nuts and Honey.
Named for the 1946 founder, though he surely had no idea diabetes-friendly or Gluten-free Baklava would one day be a thing, prices trend similar to other shops in the area while textures are a little less well-differentiated than Güllüoğlu except in the case of unrivaled Pistachio “Bride Packs.”
Located on the banks of the Bosphorus Karaköy Güllüoğlu is considered by many to be Turkey’s premier purveyor of Baklava, a history dating back to 1843 yielding everything from the standards featuring Walnuts or Pistachios to Bride Packs and cold Chocolate-topped squares soaked in sweetened Milk.
Still a lone storefront, though shipping throughout Turkey is available, the Güllü family’s story dates back to Hacı Mehmed who first started making Candies prior to training in Damascus and handing down his original recipes made entirely by hand.
Still family owned, grandson Mustafa opening Karaköy Güllüoğlu in 1949, it is inside a sparsely decorated room that locals and tourists gather to taste Istanbul’s flakiest Phyllo, whether wrapped around ground Beef in the case of Borek or loaded with Nuts and Honey.
Now producing upwards of two-tons of Baklava in a local factory daily, Gluten-free and low-Sugar iterations fitting current trends, prices range similar to other similar shops but for those arriving early the variance in texture from layer-to-layer and piece-to-piece is unparalleled.
Located in Salt Galata neolokal has earned both one Michelin Star and a Green one, Chef Maksut Aşkar’s focus on contemporary cooking finding roots in locally sourced products cultivated through “ancestral methods” and served as a Tasting with guests required to make their selection a week in advance.
Self-described as “a bridge between the old and the new,” modern techniques overlying Turkish traditions, it is after ascending an elevator then stairs that guests find a room which relies on only natural temperature control with floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking Istanbul’s lighted Mosques.
Emphasizing sustainability through sourcing, even the advanced ordering meant to minimize waste, Wines and Cocktails lean local such as in the case of “Flying Cloud” with a bit of modernism that pairs well to Canapes including “Baklava” filled with Cowpeas.
A young Kitchen including Chef Maksut, the team working quietly a floor below the rooftop, neolokal’s March menu officially began with sliced Pumpkin an a Citrus-laced Sauce before marinated Sea Bream featuring Lemon pearls on top and pureed Fava Beans as a base.
Small-portions start to finish, though hot Sourdough with Herb Butter and Mushroom Powder is offered, a single Lamb Dumpling provides but two delicious mouthfuls before proceeding to a Shrimp “Dolmade” wrapped in Collard Greens with Rice.
Cleansing the palate with Sorrel Sorbet before an entree of Lamb, all three forms distinct and well-prepared, Dessert arrives alongside Mignardises with both the Halva and Rose offering diverse tastes and textures tied together by the primary Ingredient.
Founded by Hadji İsmail Hakkı Bey in 1864 and taken over by his son Hafız Mustafa can be found throughout Istanbul, and although a chain the brand’s adherence to high standards has kept them at the top of most lists in terms of Turkish Confections ranging from Candy to Pastry.
Originally making Candy by hand, Hadji’s recipe for Lokum still utilized today, it is inside one of five Fatih locations that guests can find a wide variety ranging from Rose to Apricot with or without Confectioner’s Sugar and Nuts.
Embracing Ottomon history, small tables indoors and outside available 24/7, it is alongside Coffee or Tea that diners are invited to sample Baklava served with a sweetened Milk sidecar, each bite flaky and flawless as high volume ensures freshness throughout the day.
Decorated in tile, a display window up front showing Asure and Rice Pudding side by side, Tres Leches comes in several styles including aromatic Saffron served fully saturated while Künefe sees Pistachio and Attar added tableside to optimize both temperature and texture intended to be eaten juxtaposing Turkish Ice Cream.
Known for their use of 100% Organic Flour milled at a Yeni factory since 1948 Gün Bakery is a relative newcomer in Beşiktaş, hours from 09h00 to 19h00 daily finding the shop busy and a small number of seats usually taken.
Baking everything from Simit to Basque Cheesecake to pair with good Coffee, though Pastel de Nata are only offered from 11h30 until sold out, guests can expect good quality plus fair prices whether opting for gooey Chocolate Brownies, sticky Tahini Cookies or weighty Banana Bread.
Self-proclaimed the largest Doner in Istanbul, and considered by many to be the best, Karadeniz Döner Asım Usta in Beşiktaş can be identified by a continuous line beginning at 10h30 Monday through Saturday.
Fast paced and crowded, the concise menu selling sliced Meat as Sandwiches, Wraps or atop Rice, guests are invited to dine-in or take away all for roughly 110 to 140 Turkish Lira per choice.
Making puffy Lavash on-site, ordered “Üç Çeyrek” versus “Durum” on a Wrap, Meat carefully balances Fat with Flesh lightly seasoned such that the combination of Beef and Lamb requires little more than a slice of Tomato and Pepper to shine.
Alaçatı Tahinli Cevizli Kurabiye – Tahini and Walnut Cookies / Pistachio Kurabiye
Baklava
Established in 1950 Savoy Pastanesi has earned a reputation as one of Istanbul’s best Bakeries, their selection encompassing traditional Turkish Kurabiye sold by weight as well as Eclairs, Cream Puffs and Brownies.
Found in Cihangir with a cozy outdoor patio, ideal for a relaxing morning as antique shops start to open, guests match Tea or Coffee to Breads such as one filled with Nuts and Raisins or Rice Pudding baked to stick-a-spoon-up-straight consistency.
Not forgetting Baklava, less memorable than spots that specialize in such, Tahini and Walnut Cookies offer restrained sweetness while a vibrant green bar that eats like Ganache is actually a beautiful blend of Halva and Pistachio Paste.
With eighteen locations in Istanbul one can safely assume there is often a Saray Muhallebicisi nearby, the brand’s 87 years of experience making them a trusted place for both packaged goods such as Jam, Honey and Yogurt alongside casual Turkish Cuisine and Pastries.
Using their own dairy and Honey, with options available to dine-in or takeaway, prices trend slightly higher than other like concepts while quality is better than some but not on par with the best in Turkey.
Owned by Chef Deniz Temel Alaf is a “nomad’s Restaurant,” the Food of a Turkish man trained home and abroad taking on diverse influences that may see one plate offering Truffles while the next wraps Heart, Lung and more in Lamb Intestines before grilling it near-black.
Derived from the word Asaf, roughly translated as “burning amber fire,” it is in Beşiktaş that guests ascend to a second floor for dinner featuring views of the Bosporus and friendly service at a cost that far outpaces Michelin Bib Gourmand status.
Working in American hotels before stage at D.O.M. and noma, all of it visible in Canapes ranging from a Sumac “Taco” to savory Cones suggesting The French Laundry, warm Bread finds itself offered alongside smoked Goat’s Butter while Cocktails utilize Herbs to maximize complexity.
Focused on highlighting Anatolian Cuisine, dried Lamb atop unleavened Bread with Red Pepper Sorbet preceding Mushrooms in three textures, fans of Tartare should not miss Temel’s raw Lamb lent crunch from Wheat atop warm Fry Bread.
Cleansing the palate with Sorbet, Dumplings filled with Lamb and Pide topped in funky Cheese with Jam both impressive, more adventurous diners should focus on esoteric choices such as Camel Meat served with accouterments made from its Fat.
Not forgetting Kokorec, the aforementioned charred Offal unlike anything tasted prior, Dessert also warrants attention whether the Chocolate-stuffed Pepper, non-traditional sweetened Pumpkin or deconstructed Baklava.
Begun by Şerif Helvacı in 1938 in Babadağ Haci Serif has since expanded to 41 locations, each built on Turkish Ice Cream topped with warm Halva plus confections including Turkish Delight, Chocolates and Cookies.
Now in its third generation of family ownership, with most items made at a workshop in Denizli, guests can expect gracious hospitality towards the southeastern end of the Egyptian Bazaar with samples followed by a stunning array of tastes, textures and temperatures at low prices even by Turkish standards.
Located inside a restored 1927 mansion Balıkçı Sabahattin is considered by some to be Istanbul’s best Restaurant for Fish, a strong claim since the city so close to the Black Sea, Marmara and Bosphorus offers a wide range of Seafood from street carts to spots under the bridge and in every neighborhood.
Just a stone’s throw from Hagia Sophia and the Egyptian Market, a shaded alley down some stairs leading to its entrance, guests at Balıkçı Sabahattin will find white tablecloths plus a concise menu focused almost entirely on a seasonal local catch.
Still a family business, a fisherman named Sabahattin Korkmaz relocating his father’s Restaurant to the space over fifty-five years ago, it is shortly after seating that warm Bread and Olives are served along with complimentary filtered Water, local Wine and Soft Drinks.
Expensive by Turkish standards, though 1285 Lira for an upscale Lunch for four is a bargain compared to America or Europe, Meze and Appetizers include the likes of Sea Bass Ceviche and Fish Borek that each arrive in shareable portions.
A quiet place with friendly service and an English-fluent staff Entrees include whole Fish sold by the kilogram in addition to composed dishes such as spicy Fener Kavurma served sizzling in stone and tender aromatic Rice loaded with Mussels plus Raisins.
Aubergine with Meat, Mashed Potatoes, Tomatoes, Corbaci Pepper
Iskender Kebap, Kaymak, Tomatoes
Tavuk Göğsü
Opened by brothers Idris and Namik Çolpan in 1957 Lale Pastanesi is commonly known as The Pudding Shop, its fame largely derived from proximity to Hagia Sophia and being the first place where tourists could obtain direct transport to Asia.
Ever since a meeting place for fair-priced Food, the menu a mix of Turkish favorites and items like Onion Rings, it is atop tables decorated with currency that guests are invited to enjoy Doner or Kebabs while sipping salted Yogurt.
No doubt touristy, complete with English-fluent staff and menus, Eggplant roasted around fatty Lamb is a highlight while those in the know won’t skip Tavuk Göğsü made from Chicken Breast, Milk, Rice, Cinnamon and Sugar.
Translated as Coffee World Kahve Dunyasi is a Thai brand with hundreds of outlets scattered across Asia and Istanbul, their store in Beşiktaş conveniently open from 07h00 to 24h00 offering Cakes and Confections plus a large seating area both inside and out.
Founded by Fred Mouawad with expansion through franchising a quick look at Kahve Dunyasi’s selection features lots of Chocolate and prices lower than the likes of Starbucks, their packaged Fudge Cake dense and moist while Viennesoire such as the Pain au Chocolat are predictably basic.
Clean but cat-friendly, a stray given free-rein and taking full advantage, Kahve Dunyasi’s Cookies arrive thick with a crisp rim while Apple Honey and Cinnamon Cake outpaces a Carrot version that lacks both Frosting and the complex Baking Spices usually involved.
Kaymakli Ekmek Kadayifi – Bread Pie, Kaymak, Syrup
Kabak Tatlisi – Pumpkin, Syrup, Walnuts
First established in Fatih in 1950 and moved to Nişantaşı in 2000 Hünkar Lokantası was once considered one of the “100 Best Restaurants Of World” by Restaurant Magazine, and although this may seem far fetched the kitchen continues to turn out excellent Turkish & Ottoman Food today.
Managed by Feridun and Galip Ügümü, their open kitchen greeting guests from 12h00 to 22h30 daily, it is atop white tablecloths that menus are offered alongside warm Bread and drinks such as freshly-squeezed Pomegranate Juice to begin.
Traditionally decorated with an English-fluent staff, the nearby neighborhood quiet and upscale, it was on a slow Sunday that Hünkar was found happy to make suggestions including traditional Lamb Trotter Soup packing a whole lot of Vinegar and Garlic.
Still family owned in its third generation, a fourth also involved in management, Appetizers arrive temperature appropriate in the form cold stuffed Eggplant, creamy Hummus with fragrant Oil and warm Beef in Puff Pastry.
Relying on the grill for entrees, both Lamb Chops and varieties of Beef nicely cooked alongside Rice, Tomatoes and Peppers, the restaurant’s specialty of Hünkar Begendi translates as “admired by the Sultan” and certainly earns its accolades thanks to crispy-skinned Lamb on a bed of mashed Aubergine.
Not taking any shortcuts with sweets, a baker’s dozen made in-house daily, options range from milky to Fruit-based with the baked Rice Pudding and sweetened Pumpkin good but not nearly so compelling as Sutlu Kadayif or Bread Pie known as “Kaymakli Ekmek Kadayifi” served beneath Kaymak.
Something of a chain with locations on each side of the Bosporus, Mado has made a name for itself with warm hospitality surrounding a large selection of Baklava, Ice Cream, Coffee, Tea and Confections.
Owned by franchisees, the middle of three shops on İstiklal street bustling on Sunday, it was with greetings from a pleasant server that four guests were seated and brought an assorted collection of sweets including Turkish Delight ranging from Apple to Rose, Pomegranate, Nougat and Pistachio.
Utilizing Yaşar Patisserie and the same Ice House since 1965 it is alongside hot beverages that guests are implored to taste authentic Dondurma, in this case Pistachio with its distinctive sticky texture before delving into Baklava featuring Walnuts, Pistachios and even a diabetic-friendly version made from Purplemix Powder of natural Fruits and Vegetables.
With 2 locations in Istanbul Zübeyir Ocakbaşı comes from brothers Hamit and Zübeyir Bey, the relative newness of a Restaurant opened in 2005 in no way suggesting that either space lacks the skills or Ingredient sourcing offered at places that have been around for a hundred years or more.
Masters of the grill since the mid-1980s, a philosophy of “service to God is service to humanity” overlying modern and traditional Turkish fare, it is with complimentary Tea that many will begin and end their meal while service is exceedingly pleasant regardless of language barriers.
Well-priced for an upscale eatery on the Anatolian side, Appetizer 65-70 Turkish Lira and grilled Meats roughly 200-240, it is while Lamb, Beef and Chicken sizzle beneath a tremendous copper hood that guests are treated to delicacies such as Cheese, Tzatziki or spicy Aubergine alongside housemade Bazlama Bread.
Taking no shortcuts, even paper-thin Yufka made on-site, Meats arrive still piping hot alongside long Peppers, roasted Tomatoes and Onions perfumed with Za’atar such that Kebap can be eaten alone of the skewer or loaded onto Bread with a choice of Spices or leftover Spreads.
