Dönerci Engin’in Yeri
Üç Çeyrek Tavuk Döner
Focused exclusively on Doner in the streets surrounding Galata Tower Dönerci Engin’in Yeri takes up perhaps half a storefront, their rotating spit of Meat yielding good flavor at a fair cost though in comparison to Karadeniz Döner Asım Usta in Beşiktaş the lack of Fresh Bread or quality Produce holds the finished Product back.
The World Needs Nata
Espresso
Pastel de Nata, Queijadas De Sintra
Known also as Nata Lisboa The World Needs Nata is a small chain with a location near Galata Tower that offers a range of Pastries including the eponymous Egg Custard Tart from Portugal.
Franchised from Berlin to Abu Dhabi, the recipes and ovens conforming to traditional standards, guests are invited to lounge in cozy confines with Coffee in hand while indulging in everything from Red Velvet Cookies and Cheesecake to a respectable Nata or Cheese Tart brightened by Cinnamon.
www.natalisboa.com
Kıztaşı Muhallebicisi
Tea
Revani, Kaymak
Firin Sutlac – Baked Rice Pudding
Şekerpare, Baklava
Known for their housemade Kaymak and Milk Pudding Kıztaşı Muhallebicisi is a small shop in Fatih frequented by locals from early until late daily.
Tucked away on a quiet street with only a few seats it is from friendly owners that recommendations flow freely, the Semolina Dessert described as Revani actually more like Pudding than Cake while Rice Pudding and Baklava fresh from the oven both compare favorably to any other tasted in Turkey.
Paçacı Necip Usta
Bamya Corbacisi
Kadayif
Without a written menu or English-fluency Paçacı Necip Usta is without question a locals’ spot, the small confines open from 05h00 daily so that guests can get their fill of various Soups at whatever time suits them.
Featuring a small kitchen and just five tables, ordering done at the counter and payment on exit, Thursday’s Soup of the day was aromatic Okra with a slightly sour finish plus a basket of soft Bread followed by Cold Kadayif in sweetened Milk with Walnuts.
TURK Fatih Tutak
South Eastern Anatolia – Rum, Spiced Pumpkin, Mandarin
Chicken Cream Soup – Truffle, Chicken Skin
Pickle Juice, Plum
Pide, Trabzon Butter, Bitlis Hizan Honey 2000 Meter
TT Mussels Dolma, Beer Mayonnaise, Onion
Crisp Beef Tartare, Fermented Carrots, Smoked Beef Fat
Shrimp, Sucuk, Menemen, Egg
Bluefish, Horseradish, Osetra Caviar, Kaffir Lime
Umami Birthday Cake – Shiitake Mushroom, Cheese, Onion, Sour Cream, Bone Marrow Candle
Dry aged Turbot, Razor Clam, Turnip, Pastrami, Spinach
Turkish Dumpling – Lamb, Tomato, Smoked Yogurt, Butter
Charcoal Thracian Lamb, Potato, Buffalo Milk, Carrot, Sivri Biber
Milk Skin, Pistachio, Yufka, Matcha
Tea
Ice Almond
Lemon Turkish Delight
Burnt Butter Ice Cream with Walnuts
As Turkey’s most-awarded Restaurant TURK and Chef Fatih Tutak carry a heavy burden, the $250USD Tasting Menu well out of the range of most locals in an economy down nearly 50% after COVID.
Opened in 2019, the then-34 year old Tutak fresh from stints at noma as well as Nihonryori Ryugin, TURK serves an author’s cuisine rooted in Istanbul, though freely implementing products from local traders so long as they are sustainable.
Set around an open kitchen the menu occurs in 13 courses, each technique-driven but not overly complicated with many truly outstanding and not one falling short in its intent.
In many ways a celebration of Turkish geography, Tutak clearly proud of his culture as guests at the counter watch every step of the action, flavors range from assertive Dill to Shrimp in the style of Menemen with techniques such as fermentation and modernism administered for taste and function rather than showmanship.
Not afraid to have fun with a torched “Birthday Cake” made from Mushrooms, before a serious piece of aged Turbot and Razor Clams, Dessert starts at the table before diners are invited to the kitchen for three more bites including made-to-order Lokum served directly from the Pastry Chef.
www.turkft.com
Çiğdem Pastanesi
Baklava
Strawberry Roll Cake
Tel Kadayıf Tatlısı
Halka Tatlisi
Serving Sultanahmet since 1961 Çiğdem Pastanesi sees its fair share of locals and tourists, a wide selection of sweets and savories similar to other local spots luring guests in where a tight space is found decorated with aged wood and iron.
Surprisingly limited in English, uncommon on the street between Hagia Sophia and the Grand Bazaar, prices are a bit higher than Patisserie further from city-center while the products themselves are fair-to-middling and highlighted by Syrup-soaked Halka Tatlisi with Jam at the center.
www.cigdempastanesi.com
Şehzade Cağ Kebap
Ezme – Spicy Tomato Dip
Guvecte Manda Yogurdu – Buffalo Yogurt Casserole
Cağ Kebap – Durum Wheat Lavaş, Corbaci Pepper
Onions – Sumac
Kadayif Dolmansi – Shredded Wheat, Walnuts, Honey
With just six items on the menu Şehzade Cağ Kebap is nevertheless perpetually busy, the frenetic pace of nearby streets creating a scene quite unlike many while guests sit down to enjoy what many consider to be Istanbul’s best Lamb Kebap.
Serving Erzurum-style Lamb from a jumbo-size horizontal spit, the lengthy marinade assuring every bit is juicy save for crispy bits kissed by flame, additions include fiery peppers plus cooling Yogurt and sliced Onions intended to be eaten on paper-thin Lavash.
Also offering crushed Tomatoes and Salad for 40 Lira, and housemade Soup for those in the mood, service is fast paced such that a meal lasts perhaps thirty minutes but that certainly isn’t a reason to forgo stuffed Kadayif featuring Honey and Walnuts and a compelling texture.
Köşkeroğlu Karaköy
Kol Kiymali Boregi – Rolled Beef Borek Pastry
Firin Sutlac – Baked Rice Pudding
Baklava
Located not far from Karaköy Güllüoğlu is Köşkeroğlu Karaköy, to many the only competitor for best Baklava though Köşkeroğlu’s collection spans larger including not just standards featuring Walnuts or Pistachios but also Rice Pudding, Asure Pudding and packaged goods.
Actually two separate spaces, one selling Kebap and traditional Turkish Food with the other specializing in Dessert, it is inside the latter that several counters are found covered in Phyllo wrapped around everything from ground Beef in the case of Borek or loaded with Nuts and Honey.
Named for the 1946 founder, though he surely had no idea diabetes-friendly or Gluten-free Baklava would one day be a thing, prices trend similar to other shops in the area while textures are a little less well-differentiated than Güllüoğlu except in the case of unrivaled Pistachio “Bride Packs.”
www.koskeroglukarakoy.com
Karaköy Güllüoğlu
Tea
Cold Baklava with Chocolate
Kol Kiymali Boregi – Rolled Beef Borek Pastry
Baklava
Located on the banks of the Bosphorus Karaköy Güllüoğlu is considered by many to be Turkey’s premier purveyor of Baklava, a history dating back to 1843 yielding everything from the standards featuring Walnuts or Pistachios to Bride Packs and cold Chocolate-topped squares soaked in sweetened Milk.
Still a lone storefront, though shipping throughout Turkey is available, the Güllü family’s story dates back to Hacı Mehmed who first started making Candies prior to training in Damascus and handing down his original recipes made entirely by hand.
Still family owned, grandson Mustafa opening Karaköy Güllüoğlu in 1949, it is inside a sparsely decorated room that locals and tourists gather to taste Istanbul’s flakiest Phyllo, whether wrapped around ground Beef in the case of Borek or loaded with Nuts and Honey.
Now producing upwards of two-tons of Baklava in a local factory daily, Gluten-free and low-Sugar iterations fitting current trends, prices range similar to other similar shops but for those arriving early the variance in texture from layer-to-layer and piece-to-piece is unparalleled.
www.karakoygulluoglu.com
neolokal
Flying Cloud – Ojo Tigre Mezcal, Gobek Raki, Archers, Agave, Grapefruit
Sourdough, Parsley Marbled Butter, Cep Powder
White Eyed Pea Baklava Roll / Fried Bread, Beef / Bonito, Vine Leaves
Pumpkin and Tangerine Juice
Sinkonta, Olive Oil Braised Pumpkin, Pumpkin and Tangerine Sauce, Walnuts, Onions, Raisins
Raki Marinated Sea Bream, Gambilya Fava Beans, Lemon Caviar, Onion Gelee
Icli Kofte Dumplings, Lamb, Pine Nuts, Salted Yogurt Foam, Garlic Parsley Oil
Shrimp and Collard Dolmade, Rice, Shrimp Sauce
Sorrel Sorbet
Lamb Neck, Belly, Meatball, Sweet Beans Piyaz, Freekeh Pilaf
Revani with Rose, Rose Milk Ice Cream, Rose Delight, Coconut Meringue
Halva, Hazelnut Tahini, Sesame Ice Cream, Bitter Almond Macaron
Raki Truffle, Mamul Cookie
Turkish Coffee
Located in Salt Galata neolokal has earned both one Michelin Star and a Green one, Chef Maksut Aşkar’s focus on contemporary cooking finding roots in locally sourced products cultivated through “ancestral methods” and served as a Tasting with guests required to make their selection a week in advance.
Self-described as “a bridge between the old and the new,” modern techniques overlying Turkish traditions, it is after ascending an elevator then stairs that guests find a room which relies on only natural temperature control with floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking Istanbul’s lighted Mosques.
Emphasizing sustainability through sourcing, even the advanced ordering meant to minimize waste, Wines and Cocktails lean local such as in the case of “Flying Cloud” with a bit of modernism that pairs well to Canapes including “Baklava” filled with Cowpeas.
A young Kitchen including Chef Maksut, the team working quietly a floor below the rooftop, neolokal’s March menu officially began with sliced Pumpkin an a Citrus-laced Sauce before marinated Sea Bream featuring Lemon pearls on top and pureed Fava Beans as a base.
Small-portions start to finish, though hot Sourdough with Herb Butter and Mushroom Powder is offered, a single Lamb Dumpling provides but two delicious mouthfuls before proceeding to a Shrimp “Dolmade” wrapped in Collard Greens with Rice.
Cleansing the palate with Sorrel Sorbet before an entree of Lamb, all three forms distinct and well-prepared, Dessert arrives alongside Mignardises with both the Halva and Rose offering diverse tastes and textures tied together by the primary Ingredient.
www.neolokal.com
Hafiz Mustafa 1864
Espresso
Turkish Delight
Baklava
Saffron Tres Leches
Künefe
Vanilla Dondurma
Founded by Hadji İsmail Hakkı Bey in 1864 and taken over by his son Hafız Mustafa can be found throughout Istanbul, and although a chain the brand’s adherence to high standards has kept them at the top of most lists in terms of Turkish Confections ranging from Candy to Pastry.
Originally making Candy by hand, Hadji’s recipe for Lokum still utilized today, it is inside one of five Fatih locations that guests can find a wide variety ranging from Rose to Apricot with or without Confectioner’s Sugar and Nuts.
Embracing Ottomon history, small tables indoors and outside available 24/7, it is alongside Coffee or Tea that diners are invited to sample Baklava served with a sweetened Milk sidecar, each bite flaky and flawless as high volume ensures freshness throughout the day.
Decorated in tile, a display window up front showing Asure and Rice Pudding side by side, Tres Leches comes in several styles including aromatic Saffron served fully saturated while Künefe sees Pistachio and Attar added tableside to optimize both temperature and texture intended to be eaten juxtaposing Turkish Ice Cream.
www.hafizmustafa.com
Gün Bakery
Coffee
Chocolate Banana Bread
Brownie
Chocolate Chip Cookie
Tahini Cookie
Known for their use of 100% Organic Flour milled at a Yeni factory since 1948 Gün Bakery is a relative newcomer in Beşiktaş, hours from 09h00 to 19h00 daily finding the shop busy and a small number of seats usually taken.
Baking everything from Simit to Basque Cheesecake to pair with good Coffee, though Pastel de Nata are only offered from 11h30 until sold out, guests can expect good quality plus fair prices whether opting for gooey Chocolate Brownies, sticky Tahini Cookies or weighty Banana Bread.
www.gunbakery.com
Karadeniz Döner Asım Usta
Üç Çeyrek Tavuk Döner & Durum Doner
Self-proclaimed the largest Doner in Istanbul, and considered by many to be the best, Karadeniz Döner Asım Usta in Beşiktaş can be identified by a continuous line beginning at 10h30 Monday through Saturday.
Fast paced and crowded, the concise menu selling sliced Meat as Sandwiches, Wraps or atop Rice, guests are invited to dine-in or take away all for roughly 110 to 140 Turkish Lira per choice.
Making puffy Lavash on-site, ordered “Üç Çeyrek” versus “Durum” on a Wrap, Meat carefully balances Fat with Flesh lightly seasoned such that the combination of Beef and Lamb requires little more than a slice of Tomato and Pepper to shine.
Savoy Patisserie
Prenses Kurabiye – Walnut and Grape Cookie
Firin Sutlac – Baked Rice Pudding
Pistachio Paste Halva Bar
Alaçatı Tahinli Cevizli Kurabiye – Tahini and Walnut Cookies / Pistachio Kurabiye
Baklava
Established in 1950 Savoy Pastanesi has earned a reputation as one of Istanbul’s best Bakeries, their selection encompassing traditional Turkish Kurabiye sold by weight as well as Eclairs, Cream Puffs and Brownies.
Found in Cihangir with a cozy outdoor patio, ideal for a relaxing morning as antique shops start to open, guests match Tea or Coffee to Breads such as one filled with Nuts and Raisins or Rice Pudding baked to stick-a-spoon-up-straight consistency.
Not forgetting Baklava, less memorable than spots that specialize in such, Tahini and Walnut Cookies offer restrained sweetness while a vibrant green bar that eats like Ganache is actually a beautiful blend of Halva and Pistachio Paste.
www.savoypastanesi.com
Saray Muhallebicisi
Halka Tatlisi
Baklava
With eighteen locations in Istanbul one can safely assume there is often a Saray Muhallebicisi nearby, the brand’s 87 years of experience making them a trusted place for both packaged goods such as Jam, Honey and Yogurt alongside casual Turkish Cuisine and Pastries.
Using their own dairy and Honey, with options available to dine-in or takeaway, prices trend slightly higher than other like concepts while quality is better than some but not on par with the best in Turkey.
www.saraymuhallebicisi.com
Alaf
Bereket – Gordon’s Pink, Lychee Liqueur, Grape & Purple Basil Sauce
Sumac Taco, Kefir, Aleppo Pepper
Coronet, Cream, Onion
Artichoke, Dried Lamb, Yogurt
Housemade Bread, Olive Oil, Smoked Goats Butter
Comac from Southern Nomads – Dried Meat, Traditional Tukish Goat’s Milk Cheese, Red Pepper Sorbet, Local Grain Bread
Mushroom & Mushroom – Dried, Roasted, Cream, Fried
Lebanon Lamb Tartare – Fry Bread, Crispy Bulgur
Sea Fennel Sorbet, Olive Oil
Lamb Pide – Chimichurri, Herbs
Kokorec from Izmir – Lung, Heart, Sweetbreads, wrapped in young Lamb Intestines, Avocado Sauce from Anamur, Grilled Lavash
Camel Shish Kofte – Roasted Bread with Camel Fat, Camel Fat Hollandaise
Moldy Cheese Pide from Konya – Sesame Seeds, Strawberry Jam
Kale – Denizli Kale Pepper filled with Chocolate Ganache, Mulberry Sauce
Alaf Baklava – Pistachio, No Added Sugar
Classic Turkish Pumpkin – Crème Anglaise, Turkish Tea Ice Cream, Mint Gelato
Owned by Chef Deniz Temel Alaf is a “nomad’s Restaurant,” the Food of a Turkish man trained home and abroad taking on diverse influences that may see one plate offering Truffles while the next wraps Heart, Lung and more in Lamb Intestines before grilling it near-black.
Derived from the word Asaf, roughly translated as “burning amber fire,” it is in Beşiktaş that guests ascend to a second floor for dinner featuring views of the Bosporus and friendly service at a cost that far outpaces Michelin Bib Gourmand status.
Working in American hotels before stage at D.O.M. and noma, all of it visible in Canapes ranging from a Sumac “Taco” to savory Cones suggesting The French Laundry, warm Bread finds itself offered alongside smoked Goat’s Butter while Cocktails utilize Herbs to maximize complexity.
Focused on highlighting Anatolian Cuisine, dried Lamb atop unleavened Bread with Red Pepper Sorbet preceding Mushrooms in three textures, fans of Tartare should not miss Temel’s raw Lamb lent crunch from Wheat atop warm Fry Bread.
Cleansing the palate with Sorbet, Dumplings filled with Lamb and Pide topped in funky Cheese with Jam both impressive, more adventurous diners should focus on esoteric choices such as Camel Meat served with accouterments made from its Fat.
Not forgetting Kokorec, the aforementioned charred Offal unlike anything tasted prior, Dessert also warrants attention whether the Chocolate-stuffed Pepper, non-traditional sweetened Pumpkin or deconstructed Baklava.
www.alafkurucesme.com
Haci Serif
Turkish Coffee, Simsim
Turkish Delight
Dondurma, Pistachio Halva
Begun by Şerif Helvacı in 1938 in Babadağ Haci Serif has since expanded to 41 locations, each built on Turkish Ice Cream topped with warm Halva plus confections including Turkish Delight, Chocolates and Cookies.
Now in its third generation of family ownership, with most items made at a workshop in Denizli, guests can expect gracious hospitality towards the southeastern end of the Egyptian Bazaar with samples followed by a stunning array of tastes, textures and temperatures at low prices even by Turkish standards.
www.haciserif.com
Balikci Sabahattin
Toasted Wheat Bread
Olives, Pepper Spread, Za’atar Spice
Balik Boregi – Fish Borek Pastry
Midyeli Pilay – Mussels with Rice, Raisins
Cipura – Snapper, Leeks, Potatoes, Lemon
Fener Kavurma – Grouper, Peppers, Tomatoes, Onions
Levrek Marine – Marinated Sea Bass
Located inside a restored 1927 mansion Balıkçı Sabahattin is considered by some to be Istanbul’s best Restaurant for Fish, a strong claim since the city so close to the Black Sea, Marmara and Bosphorus offers a wide range of Seafood from street carts to spots under the bridge and in every neighborhood.
Just a stone’s throw from Hagia Sophia and the Egyptian Market, a shaded alley down some stairs leading to its entrance, guests at Balıkçı Sabahattin will find white tablecloths plus a concise menu focused almost entirely on a seasonal local catch.
Still a family business, a fisherman named Sabahattin Korkmaz relocating his father’s Restaurant to the space over fifty-five years ago, it is shortly after seating that warm Bread and Olives are served along with complimentary filtered Water, local Wine and Soft Drinks.
Expensive by Turkish standards, though 1285 Lira for an upscale Lunch for four is a bargain compared to America or Europe, Meze and Appetizers include the likes of Sea Bass Ceviche and Fish Borek that each arrive in shareable portions.
A quiet place with friendly service and an English-fluent staff Entrees include whole Fish sold by the kilogram in addition to composed dishes such as spicy Fener Kavurma served sizzling in stone and tender aromatic Rice loaded with Mussels plus Raisins.
www.balikcisabahattin.com
Pudding Shop
Eker Ayran
Doner Kebap Sample
Shish Kebap, Potatoes, Tomatoes, Corbaci Pepper, Rice
Aubergine with Meat, Mashed Potatoes, Tomatoes, Corbaci Pepper
Iskender Kebap, Kaymak, Tomatoes
Tavuk Göğsü
Opened by brothers Idris and Namik Çolpan in 1957 Lale Pastanesi is commonly known as The Pudding Shop, its fame largely derived from proximity to Hagia Sophia and being the first place where tourists could obtain direct transport to Asia.
Ever since a meeting place for fair-priced Food, the menu a mix of Turkish favorites and items like Onion Rings, it is atop tables decorated with currency that guests are invited to enjoy Doner or Kebabs while sipping salted Yogurt.
No doubt touristy, complete with English-fluent staff and menus, Eggplant roasted around fatty Lamb is a highlight while those in the know won’t skip Tavuk Göğsü made from Chicken Breast, Milk, Rice, Cinnamon and Sugar.
www.puddingshop.com
Kahve Dunyasi
Carrot Cake
Apple Honey and Cinnamon Cake
Pain au Chocolat
Double Chocolate Cookie
Chocolate Fudge Cake
Translated as Coffee World Kahve Dunyasi is a Thai brand with hundreds of outlets scattered across Asia and Istanbul, their store in Beşiktaş conveniently open from 07h00 to 24h00 offering Cakes and Confections plus a large seating area both inside and out.
Founded by Fred Mouawad with expansion through franchising a quick look at Kahve Dunyasi’s selection features lots of Chocolate and prices lower than the likes of Starbucks, their packaged Fudge Cake dense and moist while Viennesoire such as the Pain au Chocolat are predictably basic.
Clean but cat-friendly, a stray given free-rein and taking full advantage, Kahve Dunyasi’s Cookies arrive thick with a crisp rim while Apple Honey and Cinnamon Cake outpaces a Carrot version that lacks both Frosting and the complex Baking Spices usually involved.
www.kahvedunyasi.com
