Panchita, Lima PE

Panchita

Chicha Morada

Bread Basket – Yellow Potato, Panchita and Andean Bread with Whipped Butter, Salsa Verde de Cilantro, Salsa Ocopa, Salsa Rocoto, Salsa Huancaina

Anticuchos Platter – Chicken Liver, Chicken Heart, Chicken Gizzard, Beef Heart, Beef Tenderloin, Veal Sweetbread with Tomato Salsa and Aji Criollo

Fried Plantains

Fried Potatoes

Mancha Pecho – Dry Potato Stew with Chincha-style Noodles, Chicharrón, Boiled Yucca, Salsa Criolla

Picarones – Fig Honey

Molded Tres Leches – Vanilla Bean Cream

Pudin Especial – Citrus, Caramel, Cream

At this point aware of Gaston Acurio’s empire, though it was not apparent when planning a trip to Peru, it was at the fourth of his and wife Astrid Gutsche’s Restaurants that one last meal in Lima took place, Panchita near the Inca Market certainly not the most famous or refined of spaces but the Food and service well worth a visit.

Subtitled “Sazon Criolla” and built on ancient Creole traditions of big flavors cooked over fire it is after walking a long path from the hostess stand to a case of Meat that guests are revealed an immense dining room built across several rooms and levels, the Salad Bar at its center an odd touch and one that did not seem popular on this particular evening though its contents looked fresh and intriguing.

Clearly a place accustomed to travelers, the contemporary vibe and décor finding several guests speaking English in close proximity, it was from bilingual menus that decisions were made amongst dishes ranging from Stews to Steaks and Chaufa to Pasta, the order lighter than it would have been if lunch had not ended just four hours earlier at Central.

Focused on ancient Cuisine without going quite as rustic as Isolina, though those in search of Offal will find bits here and there, it is with Bread charged per person a la Astrid & Gaston that most tables begin and finally opting to taste Chicha Morada it can simply be said that both are exactly what one might expect, the Purple Corn Juice sweet but not artificially so and Bread highlighted by fluffy Potato Brioche but otherwise pretty plain save for the Spreads.

Told by servers that portions run large, the intention to serve food as one’s Grandmother might embodied right down to family-style sides, it was in the form of a sizzling skillet protected by wood that Anticuchos arrived featuring more than just Beef Heart, the pieces also offered individually far more exciting as a choose-your-own-adventure with Chicken Gizzards and Sweetbreads particularly well cooked with a charred outside and supple center.

Getting in one last order of Fried Potatoes in addition to buttery Plantains, Peru’s Fries once again making one wonder why Belgium gets all the attention, it was with a mix of Potato Stew, Soy-slicked Noodles and Pig that the meal’s savories came to an end, the choice of whether to mix or eat separate left in the diner’s hand though everything benefitted when a bit of the undersized cut of fried Pork was included.

Obviously saving room for Chef Gutsche’s Desserts, the Picarones previously tasted at La Mar good enough to justify a second look, it was throwing caution to the wind that a server’s warning of Tres Leches being “too big” was ignored, the whole tray topped in Vanilla-scented Cream nearly finished…and it would have been if the lady had not tipped the server off on a birthday that also brought forth complimentary Citrus Bread Pudding with a candle and song.

www.panchita.pe

Posted in Bread Basket, Bread Pudding, Dessert, Food, Lima, Miraflores, Panchita, Panchita Lima, Panchita Peru, Panchita Sazon Criolla, Panchita Sazon Criolla Lima, Panchita Sazon Criolla Miraflores, Peru, Pork, Sweetbread, Sweetbreads, Vacation Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Central, Lima PE

Central

Tea – Chamomile, Mandarin, Wild Honey

Rock Mollscs – Sea Snail, Mussel, Sargassum, Limpet

Desert Plants – Huarango, Cactus, Sweet Potato Leaf, Loche

Lofty Andes – Potato, Tree Tomato, Alpaca Heart, Muna Mint

Thick Stems – Olluco, Chincho, Onion, Field Mustard

Waters of Nanay – Piranhas, Cocona, Achiote, Huampo Bark

Forest Cotton – River Shrimp, Llanten, Huito, Pacea

High Jungle – Macambo, Cassava, Copoazu, Air Potato, Smoked Butter, Cacao

Marine Soil – Sea Urchin, Pepino Melon, Razor Clam, Seaweed

Tree Points – Avocado, Kiwicha, Arracacha, Lake Algae

Land of Corn – Kculli, Purple, Chulpi, Piscorunto

Amazonian Plain – Churo, Cecina, Black Chili Pepper, Bellaco

Coastal Harvest – Scallops, Yellow Chili Pepper, Milk, Tumbo

Sea Coral – Octopus, Crab, Squid, Sea Lettuce

High Andes Mountains – Pork Belly, Yellow Mashwa, Kaniwa

Humid Green – Caigua, Cushuro, Sweet Lemon, Chaco Clay

Amazonian White – Cacao, Chirimoya, Bahuaja Nut, Taperiba

Medicinals and Plant Dyes – Congona, Matico, Malva, Pilipili

With the recent promotion of Maido to Latin America’s “Best” Restaurant on a certain list one had to wonder if Virgilio Martínez’s time spent opening MIL had somehow impacted Central, but if a birthday lunch on March 10th was any indication diners have nothing to fear as seventeen courses served over three hours spoke of a kitchen that remains confident, creative and committed to their vision.

Now celebrating ten years in Miraflores and toqued by Martinez and his wife Pia León, a two-story space of glass, wood and stone giving the room an airy feel matching a menu built to explore Peru’s Flora and Fauna by elevation, diners entering Central are quickly led to tables dressed in natural linen where a brief introduction awaits, bottled Water quickly poured with an expansive Beverage list also available.

Still a young man with much to say, Martinez’s involvement with a project titled Mater Iniciativa an intriguing aspect of both Central and MIL that intends to better understand Peru’s biodiversity, it is from a selection of ingredients ranging from the Sea to Mountains that guests are fed and beginning ten meters down the tone is set early by way of chopped Sea Snails and Mussels intended to be spread on a large green Cracker not dissimilar to a “Shrimp Chip.”

Fairly confident that even the most well-traveled gastronome will encounter novel ingredients across the journey, each course thus presented with a lengthy description and occasional warnings of what is – and is not – edible, course two presented Chef León’s interpretation of Desert Plants in the form of Fritters, Chips and Juice, the later vibrant with acid and a poignant lead-in to “Lofty Andes” that asks guests to dip a small wrinkled Potato into intense Mint Dip given a touch of funk by cured and shaved Alpaca Heart.

Not used to such bold flavors so early, the kitchen smartly pumping the brakes with a creamy tuber called Olluco wrapped in a crispy nest next to shaved pieces enlivened by Onion it was shortly thereafter that Martinez’s Instagram-ready “Waters of Nanay” arrived complete with frozen faces supporting Piranha Skin and Flesh plus a side of nibbles stuffed with Tartare.

Temporarily veering sweet with Shrimp and Berries plus a cottony textured sphere it was at course seven that the kitchen sent forth a “Bread” plate including three choices, the pulp of Cacao offered as one spread with Butter imbued with ash the other.

Varying the pace to each table’s liking, no excessive delays but also never rushed, Marine Soil proved to be a challenge for those who do not like Uni while others found its position to Melon mesmerizing, the Tree Points and Land of Corn served next both textural explorations with the former saline and the later more or less the best Creamed Corn imaginable beneath a veil of Tortillas and fractured Corn Nuts.

Trekking back to the Amazon for Giant Snails concealed by Foam, the “Coastal Harvest” to follow essentially Central’s Ceviche of Scallops with a distinct Passionfruit flavor balanced by Chiles, it was the penultimate dish called Sea Coral that proved to be the afternoon’s best by way of Seafood Stew amidst textures of Kelp, though the supple Pork with milky Quinoa and fried Mashwa was certainly not a bad follow-up.

At this point turning the final three courses over to pastry Chef Annia Ortiz, a Cucumber-sque Panna Cotta beneath sour Ice refreshing the palate before a dish that tastes like an Apple Dumpling exploded on the plate with Mangoes, it was in Mignardises titled “Medicinals and Plant Dyes” that the afternoon came to a finish, a take-home gift of dried paper imprinted with ingredients and notes further enforcing Martinez and León’s desire to not just feed, but also to educate and inspire.

www.centralrestaurante.com.pe

Posted in Bread Basket, Central, Central Restaurante, Crab, Dessert, Food, Ice Cream, Lima, Miraflores, Octopus, Peru, Pork, Vacation Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Puku Puku Cafe (San Isidro,) Lima PE

Puku Puku Cafe

House Cold Brew

Iced Mocha

Plantain Muffin

Apple Alfajor

72% Peruvian Cocoa Pastry

Tres Leches with Cocoa Shavings and White Chocolate Cream

When Puku Puku Café opened its postage-stamp-size space in Miraflores it seems hard to believe ownership had any clue how successful they would become, several years of roasting Beans from small farms eventually begetting an enormous roastery and bakeshop at Av. Pardo y Aliaga 695 that now serves as home base to the whole operation.

Considered by many to be Lima’s premier place for Coffee, three single-origin roasts forming the backbone of business while locally sourced small batches come and go with the season, guests entering Puku Puku Café San Isidro will quickly be taken by the open floorplan and artistic flourishes including trees, maps and bright colors while true ‘Coffee geeks’ will no doubt be fascinated by a ‘lab’ in back that offers several brewing mechanisms as well as cupping sessions.

Not keen on sampling Espresso shots with temperatures above 80ᵒF and humidity hovering around 100% outside, particularly as Puku Puku’s medium roast Cold Brew had already proven memorable in Miraflores, it was with another glass flask in hand plus an Iced Mocha for someone else that seats were taken on a small bench with four Pastries, a sip of Mocha unfortunately a bit less finely mixed than others but otherwise well flavored with plenty of Dark Chocolate.

Finally learning Maracuya means Passionfruit and thus avoiding two items built around its cloying flavor, the selection of baked goods at this Puku Puku more than triple what is offered at the original outpost, it was after washing hands in the bathroom’s tub and drying via Iron Man that a Plantain Muffin was found densely packed with Fruit and buttery Streusel, the follow-up Alfajor not like any other in town as it mixed Apple Butter with Caramel to form what can best be described as Dutch Apple Pie made spreadable.

Moving next to Chocolate, the Cake from visit number one a standout, those looking for laminated Pastries would be better off walking down the block to El Pan de la Chola as the Pain au Chocolate there is simply better while fans of Tres Leches will find themselves perfectly content right where they are immediately upon scooping the first of several moist bites topped in White Chocolate Cream from a Jar.

www.pukupuku.pe

Posted in Breakfast, Coffee, Croissant, Croissants, Dessert, Food, Lima, Peru, Puku Puku, Puku Puku Cafe, Puku Puku Cafe San Isidro, Puku Puku San Isidro, San Isidro, Vacation Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

El Pan de la Chola (San Isidro,) Lima PE

El Pan de la Chola

Housemade Cinnamon Cereal Toast with Butter

Housemade Seed Bread Avocado Toast with Red Onion and Sesame

Ham and Cheese Croissant

Pain au Chocolat

Sugar Brioche

Carrot Cake

It was almost precisely a week after sitting down to Breakfast at El Pan de la Chola in Miraflores that two Americans entered Jonathan Day’s second location at Miguel Dasso 113 in San Isidro, the Restaurant built next to a bookstore far larger and less crowded than the original but offering equally great products including several not seen prior.

High ceilinged and decorated with wood, granite and art suspended by strings, the latter giving the space levity not seen inside the bustling Bakery, El Pan de la Chola San Isidro appears to act as a retail outpost and roastery while baking occurs across town, the self-taught works of passion resting behind glass with a menu of additional choices along a wall in back.

Intentionally selecting an entirely different collection of goods save for Avocado Toast that comes pre-assembled here rather than DIY, the toasted Seed Bread as well as a slice of Pain Au Cereal heavily laden with Cinnamon and Butter continuing to speak highly of Day’s skills developed while attending school in England, those seeking something a little more “meaty” would be well served to consider a Ham and Cheese Croissant that comes out crisp and layered despite its molten center while a list Panini-style Sandwiches also offer temptation.

Moving on to sweeter things, a collection of Quick Breads and Viennoiserie forming the bulk of what is available, suffice it to say that golden Brioche topped in Granulated Sugar should definitely be considered if any are left on arrival, the reportedly fast-seller a “best of the best” item when compared to a flaky Croissant piped with Dark Chocolate and Carrot Cake that is moist, dense and packed with Walnuts as well as Raisins.

https://www.facebook.com/elpandelachola/

Posted in Breakfast, Croissant, Croissants, Dessert, El Pan de la Chola Miguel Dasso, El Pan de la Chola San Isidro, Food, Lima, Peru, Pork, San Isidro, Vacation Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Isolina, Lima PE

Isolina

Pisco Sour

Papa Rellena con Harto Relleno – Stuffed Potato with Minced Meat, Eggs, and Olives served with Criolla Salsa and Aji Cream

Pan con Jamon de Lechon – Suckling Pig, Red Onions, Lettuce, Herb Aioli

Pan con Huevera Frita – Fried Bonito Egg Sandwich, Salsa Criolla

Cau Cau con Sangrecita – Tripe and Potato Stew with Aji Pepper, Turmeric and Black Mint served with Blood Sausage Stew and Rice

Tallarin Saltado a la Criolla – Stir fry Spaghetti, Tenderloin, Tomatoes, Red Onion

Arroz Zambito – Warm Rice Pudding with Cinnamon

Manjar Blanco Pudding – Chantilly Cream

Only open since 2015, though little including pickled Peppers used as decorations seem nearly so new, it was for dinner that two guests stopped at Isolina on Friday night, the unlikely sensation from Chef José del Castillo once again completely committed both upstairs as well as down and soon to get busy with a global population of diners ranging from locals to Americans to a sizable group of visitors from Amsterdam.

Located in Lima’s trendy Barranco neighborhood, an area full of fashion, art and youth seemingly the last place one might go looking for Cuisine that dates back to Colonial times, Isolina focuses on a type of cooking called Criollo and although far less celebrated than dishes such as Ceviche or Lomo Saltado the former Food of slaves has found new life at Isolina much like Offal has captured the attention of diners stateside in recent years.

Born out of del Castillo’s childhood memories of family-style dishes cooked by Mothers or Grandmothers, a hand-written and photocopied menu joined by daily specials served in heaping portions, it is quickly after sitting down at closely-packed tables that diners will find a collection of items ranging from Brains to Kidneys to Stomach offered, the Cocktail list equally diverse though ‘safe’ choices exist on both.

Thankfully publishing an English-friendly Menu with more lengthy descriptions of dishes, the staff sporadically bilingual but usually too busy navigating the room with enormous plates to be bothered, it was with bottled Water and a particularly foamy Pisco Sour in hand that an order was placed with allowance for “half-portions,” though a quick glance at the softball-sized Potato stuffed with Beef, Eggs and Olives with their Pits will quickly make most aware of what is coming.

As much a Tavern as a member of Latin America’s “50 Best” list, several guests just stopping in for drinks or a quick bite en route to somewhere else, it was also from a list of Starters that two full-size Sandwiches arrived for just 15 Sol each, the one topped in Suckling Pig not dissimilar to Porchetta while its cousin doubled down on texture and umami by deep-frying an Omelet fortified with Fish Eggs and placing it on crispy Bread with sliced Onions and Peppers.

Told by servers that Cau-Cau is something of an Isolina signature, José’s recipe said to date back hundreds of years, it was alongside the more typical Tallarin Saltado that a steaming skillet of Tripe arrived with a perfume of Turmeric, each bite rich and tender while the yin to its yang was exactly as funky as one might expect from pan-seared Chicken and Pig’s blood loaded with Aji Peppers and Garlic.

Unable to single-handedly conquer such a rich dish, a less adventurous tablemate perfectly content with her Stir-fry, it was with much of the Blood Sausage and Rice returned that more Arroz arrived, this time a much less aggressive portion cooked with Cream, Sugar and a pinch of Cinnamon that tasted fine but not nearly as delicious as Caramel Pudding that is stick-a-spoon-up-straight thick beneath a layer of Chantilly Cream.

www.facebook.com/isolinaperu

Posted in Barranco, Dessert, Food, Isolina, Isolina Peru, Isolina Taberna, Isolina Taberna Peruana, Lima, Peru, Pork, Vacation Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

El Mercado, Lima PE

El Mercado

Fried Potatoes with Aji and Salsa Huancaina

Ceviche Mercado – Lemon Sole, Crispy Calamari, Mixed Chiles, Yellow Chili Leche de Tigre, Sweet Potato, Gigante Corn

El Cubanito Sandwich – Lacquered Pork Belly, Red Onion, Fried Bananas, Quail Eggs

Papas Rellenas Limenas – Potato Croquettes with River Shrimp, Octopus, Squid, Scallops

Yasi Chaufa – Wok Fried Vegetables, Hoisin Sauce, Farmed Egg Fritttata

French Toast of Chancay – Cheese Ice Cream. Figs and Pomegranate

Carrot Cake – Mascarpone, Butterscotch

House Tres Leches – Cold Citrus Cream

When Rafael Osterling’s eponymous Restaurant e-mailed guests a cancellation notice 24-hours prior to dinner as a result of renovations taking longer than expected it seemed as though there would be no opportunity to experience the Chef-Restaurateur’s Food while in Peru, but much like it was only discovered afterward that La Mar is owned by Gaston Acurio it turns out El Mercado is operated by Osterling and late-lunch of Friday provided a glimpse of his cooking on a more casual scale.

Spoke of in the same breath as La Mar when discussing Lima’s Ceviche scene, a Miraflores address at Hipolito Unanue 203 no less bustling than Acurio’s concept with well over one hundred seats spread across an open air space, guests arriving at El Mercado anytime after 12:30 should anticipate a wait considering Lima’s power-lunch population, benches on the patio or indoors offered in addition to complimentary Potato Chips and Sauce plus tiny glass bottles of Water that cost 9 Sol each.

Louder than necessary but not atypical by American standards, no soundtrack amplifying the noise but merely a result of too many bodies and/or too much booze, it was at a two-top just feet from the Bar that diners were seated and quickly greeted by an efficient but clearly overworked waiter, menus dropped off but his return delayed nearly twenty minutes.

Eventually allowed to order just past 1:45pm, a large table of ten now filled on the opposite side of a rail, it was not long after the ticket was placed that a large bowl of house Ceviche arrived featuring fresh and fried elements, the collection not as diverse as that at La Mar though both Sole and Squid were good and the Broth appropriately acidic.

Moving next to two Appetizers and one Entrée, the Papas Rellenas at El Mercado eschewing Beef in favor of chopped Seafood and all the better for it, those looking for something non-Fish would be well advised to consider the four-bite “El Cubanito” topped in juicy Pork plus Red Onions, Bananas and runny Quail Eggs while a dish titled “Yasi Chaufa” unfortunately fell flat thanks to overcooked Rice and flaccid Peppers beneath an Omelet that seemed like an afterthought.

Fortunately saving room for Dessert both here and at Don Tito prior, El Mercado’s collection of sweets a veritable who’s who of favorites, it was ignoring Churros and Crepes that French Toast, Carrot Cake and Tres Leches were requested, the question of which was ‘best’ better phrased as which was least delicious as the Carrot Cake was vigorously spiced but balanced by Butterscotch and Mascarpone while French Toast baked up like a Souffle and Tres Leches arrived moist yet texturally compelling with a fresh Citrus finish.

www.rafaelosterling.pe

Posted in Dessert, El Mercado, Food, French Toast, Ice Cream, Lima, Miraflores, Peru, Pork, Vacation Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Don Tito, Lima PE

Don Tito

Papas Fritas

Tequenos Don Tito with Chicken and Guacamole

Pollo a la Brasa

Established in 1984 and considered by most to be Lima’s premier destination for roasted Chicken it was not until urged by a Cab Driver that the decision was made to travel all the way up to Don Tito at Av. Aviación 3096, the process of getting there and back without roaming to summon an Uber a hassle but the reward truly world-class Bird plus the best fried Potatoes tasted anywhere to date, including those in Belgium.

Now with three locations but told that only the original was worthwhile, a statement echoed by several locals including businessmen willing to wait in the sun for a seat at lunch, it was moments after the Restaurant’s noon opening that two chairs were filled next to a window with fans circulating air overhead, a waiter likely in his early 40s dropping off menus and quickly returning with Beverages.

Not a particularly complicated space, some religious ornaments on display alongside artistic depictions of Chickens surrounding the central rotisserie, ordering at Don Tito is an equally uncomplicated process largely dictated by party size, a variety of combos including Chicha Morada and Salad offering a good deal but a la carte options also available.

Reportedly selling nearly a thousand Chickens on their busiest days, several already sporting a bit of char and ready to go at noon, it was with every seat taken by 12:15 that lunch began in earnest, a plate of Tequenos recommended by the server offering four Wonton-like wrappers filled with pulled Chicken plus a dollop of roughly smashed Avocado, Tomato and Pepper.

Moving next to the star of the show, though skinless wedges of Potato fried crisp and oilless with a creamy center undoubtedly compete for top billing, suffice it to say that save for a lack of breading there is little separating Don Tito’s Pollo a la Brasa from fried Chicken in terms of texture, the skin actually crackling in several areas despite juicy Flesh beneath and every square inch deeply penetrated with a robust Spice blend.

www.dontito.pe

Posted in Don Tito, Food, Lima, Peru, Vacation Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Pasteleria San Antonio (Magdalena del Mar,) Lima PE

Pasteleria San Antonio

Empanada Especial de Carne with Beef, Onions, Boiled Egg, Powdered Sugar and Lime

Alfajor Tradicional

Crema Frito with Masa Brioche and Chantilly Cream

Manzana con Pasas with Apple, Fondant and Honey

Pionono with Dulce de Leche

Bread Pudding

Impressed by Pasteleria San Antonio San Isidro just a few days prior it was while in another part of Lima that a second location played host to Breakfast, the all-day Cafeteria in Magdalena del Mar a bit less boisterous than its larger sibling but still offering the same great lineup plus a few novelties likely related to dining in the morning instead of late at night.

Laid out in a fashion similar but not quite the same as other San Antonio Bakeries, the Deli cases and Bakers racks encircling a standing-room-only counter at room’s center with dine-in seating allocated to a patio and room to one side, it is immediately upon approaching the cases that patrons are greeted by temptations on all sides, the server in this case not fluent in English but more than capable of collecting a half-dozen items and producing the bill.

Settling the tab at a central cashier before returning to the counter to collect, everything boxed nicely with sweet and savory separate, it was while standing at a tall counter that a piping-hot Empanada was cut in half displaying Beef, Onions and Eggs, everything well seasoned and magnified by a twist of lime before switching gears to Bread Pudding so heavy with Citrus that tasted as though it had been made not with Custard but Orange Juice.

Turning next to an Alfajor labeled as “Tradicional,” the triple-stack Sandwich dissimilar to any other in town with a Shortbread sort of texture amidst Manjar Blanco, it was in follow-up that more Caramel filled the center of rolled Dough closer to San Antonio’s Cornmeal Alfajor, though left to decide between one or the other the Cookie seems to offer a better Filling to ‘Crust’ ratio.

Saving two larger items till the end, most of the Bread Pudding discarded, it was largely out of curiosity that Masa Brioche filled with Chantilly and topped with Crème Brulee was tasted and found to be exactly as its ingredients would lead one to suspect, the “Manzana con Pasas” somehow managing to be even more cloyingly sweet by way of the Honey Glaze and cooked Apples surrounded by Fondant.

http://www.pasteleriasanantonio.com/

Posted in Bread Pudding, Breakfast, Dessert, Food, Lima, Magdalena, Magdalena del Mar, Pasteleria San Antonio Magdalena, Pasteleria San Antonio Magdalena del Mar, Peru, Vacation Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Astrid & Gaston, Lima PE

Astrid & Gaston

Tumbo – Lurch, Pineapple, Orange, Lemongrass Syrup

Cholo Mule – Pisco Huaragai Torontel, Lemon, Cucumber Syrup, Ginger, Elderflower Tonic

Cheese Bread, Red Pepper Aji Roll, Herb Focaccia, Purple Potato and Cocona Bread with Salted Butter, Smoked Tomato Spread, Guacamole

The Arepa Who Thinks its a Mixto Sandwich – Andean Cheese, Cheek Ham, Quince Chalaca

Dim Sum Cuy – Peking Guinea Pig in a Purple Corn Bao with Hoisin and Pickles

Stuffed Arracachita – Arabian-Andean scented Lamb, Red Onions, Pepper Puree

The Rabbit and The Loche Pumpkin – Lima Curry, Sweet Potato Roti, Jasmine Scented Quinoa

Chifa Nikkei Stewed Beef – Sticky Chaufa, Char Siu Cheeks

King Kong – Pineapple, Quince, Homemade Caramelized Milk, Lucuma, Coffee and Saffron Ice Cream

Miracle Bomb – Chocolate, Turron, Aguaymanto, Purple Corn, Rosewood Incense

Currently ranked Number 33 on “the list” it was unfortunately after a lengthy delay due to traffic that two diners arrived late for dinner at Astrid & Gaston on Thursday night, the staff both courteous and understanding of the circumstances with seating happily accommodated despite the Restaurant being expectedly busy.

Without doubt a landmark in South American gastronomy, the husband and wife team of Gaston Acurio and Astrid Gutsche relocating their eponymous kitchen to Casa Moreyra in 2014, guests ascending the front steps of Astrid & Gaston are immediately cast into a fantasy world divided across multiple rooms including trees, statues and plants suspended from ceilings, every detail right down to the restrooms reminiscing past and present of the building’s unique history.

No longer the only one of its kind, Acurio’s empire now global with a second Astrid y Gaston in Mexico City plus several other concepts elsewhere, it was after a short pause in the foyer that guests were led to a sizable two-top just outside the kitchen where cooks frequently shouted “Oyido” in unison.

Not offered a tasting menu, the surrounding tables also ordering a la carte which makes one wonder whether such a thing is still available, it was quickly after settling in that Cocktails were ordered as Menus were perused, the layout not too different from Chicha in Cusco but both prices and portions more substantial.

Embracing the same globally-influenced Peruvian style of cooking that the couple always has, many dishes presented with a story, it was while sipping refreshing beverages including an elegant yet atypical Mule that four Breads and three Spreads arrived for 15 Sol each, the Purple Potato with Cocona sweet and delicious with simple Butter while the Aji Roll was heated but not too spicy and quite similar to Pizza when topped in a spread of Smoked Tomatoes.

Taking into account a long day including lots of sun plus three sizable meals including lunch at La Mar and ordering accordingly, a typical three-course progression probably an appropriate amount of food for most, it was with three Appetizers that dining began perhaps thirty minutes after seating, “The Arepa Who Thinks its a Mixto Sandwich” not easily shared but appropriately titled based on taste and texture while Dim Sum Cuy and Stuffed Arracachita take traditional Peruvian Meats and veer international with the former virtually indistinguishable from Duck and the later deeply perfumed with what resembles a Yellow Curry.

Taking a unique approach to Entrees that sees ‘sides’ presented separate from the Meats and Vegetables, “The Rabbit and The Loche Pumpkin” placing roasted Saddle in fragrant Curry with crispy Flatbread and Quinoa on the side, it was surprisingly Acurio’s Beef Cheek Stew that stood out as a result of incredible tenderness and a sweet yet earthy finish not unlike Mole.

At this point turning the program over to Astrid, her Pastries already impressive four times out of four at other Restaurants,, it was ignoring warnings from the server that “Miracle Bomb” joined King Kong to end the night, the latter essentially a tropical Mille Feuille that finds its foil in Coffee and Saffron Ice Cream while the Chocolate Balloon is shattered instead of melted to reveal contents that range from Fruit to Cocoa and crispy to creamy as a faint Christmas-y aroma ties it all together.

www.astridygaston.com

Posted in Astrid & Gaston, Astrid y Gaston, Bread Basket, Coffee, Dessert, Food, Ice Cream, Lima, Peru, Pork, San Isidro, Vacation Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Berisso, Lima PE

Berisso Café

Rosquita de Maicena

Torta Helada

Dulce de Leche Milhojas

Ojo de Buey with Almond and Strawberry

Alfajor

Tres Leches

Known as an locals-only sort of place, its location near Museo de Arte de Lima and Circuito Magico del Agua the impetus to spend an hour inside awaiting sunset, it was at a back booth of Berisso Café that two diners sat down to Pastries and Bottled Water, locals coming from work eventually filling tables previously occupied by what can best be described as Lima’s “Early Bird Special” crowd.

One of many traditional Cafeterias in central Lima, taxis and commuter busses all familiar with the space and making frequent stops in its vicinity, guests entering Berisso will quickly notice a small market backed by housemade Sweets and Sandwiches, the process of self-selecting items and taking a seat followed by waiter service and settling the tab upon exit.

Part Italian but otherwise similar to most Peruvian Pastelerias, Coffee and Chicha Morada plus a selection of Spirits available along with the Food, it was on an order of six items plus two Waters that diners spent just 35 Sol, first bites of a Cookie called Rosquita de Maicena sort of like an Alfajor minus its filling and therefore sort of dry while the more familiar Manjar Blanco Sandwich was good, but not quite on par with those at Puku Puku Café or Homemade thanks to an overabundance of Cornstarch.

Improving with additional selections, the 6.50 Sol Tres Leches light and creamy despite its large portion, it was also at Berisso that the only Torta Helada of the trip was tasted, two distinctly different layers of Strawberry Jello formed around Cake enjoyable enough but the better bet either a thumbprint-style Ojo de Buey with Almond and Strawberry or the crispy Milhojas that is available with either Peruvian Chocolate Fudge or the more familiar Caramel.

Posted in Berisso, Berisso Cafe, Cafeteria Berisso, Dessert, Food, Lima, Peru, Vacation Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

La Mar, Lima PE

La Mar

Pisco Sour

Pineapple Pisco Punch

Crispy Corn, Potato Chips, Plantain Chips, Sweet Potato Chips, 3 Sauces

Crab and Langoustine Empanada with Lime

Mixto Especial Ceviche – Grouper, Octopus, Langoustines, Calamari, Clams, Sweet Potato, Gigante Corn, Onions, Leche de Tigre

El Bonto Burger – Tuna, Aioli, Tomato, Greens, Cabbage on Grilled Bao with Sweet Potato Fries and Aji

Spaghetti – Garlic, Clams and Rocoto Pepper

Americano with Ice

Picarones – Chancaca Honey with Figs

Rice Pudding – Chia Seed, Dulce de Leche, Crispy Quinoa, Cinnamon Truffles, Glazed Strawberries, Chicha Morada Ice

Unaware of its ownership, only the fact that nearly anyone you talk to in Lima will say La Mar is *the* place for Ceviche, it was just after flying the skies with Condor Xtreme that two guests bellied up to the bar of another Gaston Acurio concept, every seat in the spacious no-reservations Restaurant filled and the meal that followed proving why with good food and better service.

Apparently now one of seven similarly named spaces stretching all the way up the coast to San Francisco but also to Miami and Brazil, the idea of fresh Seafood presented in a variety of ways an easy sell in any coastal location and all the more-so in Cities where business lunches necessitate lighter fare and expeditious service, those visiting La Mar will quickly note a lively atmosphere featuring several suits though based on both tone and volume one wonders how much of the conversation actually involves mergers or acquisitions.

Nowhere featuring the name of Acurio or Astrid Gutsche, only the Restaurant’s business card indicating the couple’s involvement, it was while perusing bilingual menus and watching staff at work that free Bottled Water was poured prior to the arrival of Cocktails, the traditional Sour topped in lighter than usual Egg Foam while Pineapple Pisco Punch was a great thirst quencher following several hours in the sun.

Serving complimentary housemade Chips, crispy Corn and three Sauces to those waiting, a nice touch that compels the hand even though plates arrive quickly, those looking to start things off on a good foot are encouraged to begin with Shellfish Empanadas brightened up by a twist of Citrus in addition to one of several styles of raw Fish, a “Chef’s combination” pushed by Staff undoubtedly the most popular though the Mixto Especial seems a better value given its variety and larger bowl that offers a bold blend of heat and acidity.

Not particularly in the mood for a whole fish, though specimens on ice and those being prepared nearby did look great, it was instead alongside Garlicky Spaghetti and Clams that El Bonito Burger arrived, the 26 Sol a bit steep for what amounts to perhaps five bites but the flavor and texture both remarkable while included Sweet Potato Fries were also quite good.

Offering locally roasted Coffee to finish, any opportunity to enjoy a cup in Peru nearly as worthwhile as a chance to order one of Pastry Chef Gutsche’s Desserts, those looking for esoteric ideas like those at Astrid & Gaston or Chicha may be disappointed but for those interested in well-made classics it would be hard to suggest a Lighter Picarone than those at La Mar while Rice Pudding decorated in textural elements and awash with Caramel is like a multiple choice test question with no wrong answers.

www.lamarcebicheria.com/en/Lima

Posted in Coffee, Crab, Dessert, Food, Ice Cream, La Mar, La Mar Lima, Lima, Miraflores, Octopus, Peru, Vacation Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Homemade…hecho en casa, Lima PE

Homemade…hecho en casa

Frozen Cappuccino

Frozen Macchiato

Cinnamon Roll

Alfajor Clasico

Mexican Chicken Club Sandwich – Lemon Grille Chicken, Guacamole, Bacon Bits, Cheddar, Greens on Seed Bread with Fried Potatoes, Aji and Aioli

Vegan Carrot Cake Pancake – Chia and Almond Flour, Plantains, Orange, Chancaca Honey

Tres Leches Cake

Returned from Cusco just twelve hours prior it was after a lengthy run along the coast that Breakfast was sought at Homemade, the cutesy Miraflores Café largely empty thirty minutes after opening as TLC’s No Scrubs played from overhead speakers mounted along the sizable back dining room’s ceiling.

Toqued by Chef Gina Bernuy and officially titled “Homemade …hecho en casa,” the bright pink gate outside difficult to miss at calle Henry Revett 259, those entering Homemade will immediately notice a case of Pastries just after crossing a shaded patio, the selections diverse and tempting while the décor itself sports a very feminine feel created by flowers, plants and prints plus a pile of Children’s toys set alongside low-slung couches.

Not a typical Peruvian Restaurant by any stretch, the menu dipping and diving into various genres with the only real ‘focus’ that of scratch-made plates created from good ingredients, it was at a leisurely pace that servers went about doing daily routines before taking orders, two frozen Coffees soon to arrive that were unfortunately loaded with Sugar while both a Cinnamon Roll and oversized Alfajor were exceptional, the former wound tight but fluffy and the Cookie with Manjar Blanco so delicate that it fractured in an attempt to pick it up, the slightly runny center and warmth leading one to assume it had not been out of the oven very long.

Dining with the sort of person who cannot just subsist on sweets to start the day, Homemade’s “Mexican Chicken Club Sandwich” filling a need for “something with Avocado” while also offering great housemade Bread and a pile of crispy fried Potatoes, it was by a coin-flip that Carrot Cake Pancakes were selected instead of Churro French Toast, the single Vegan Cake dense and moist with bold spicing and plenty of natural sweetness from Fruit and Honey while Chef Bernuy’s Tres Leches Cake proved an improbable stunner, the base almost more liquid than solid yet still maintaining its form while decorative Cream on top was not too sweet, but instead an ethereal landing place for freshly ground Cinnamon.

www.facebook.com/HomemadeHechoEnCasa

Posted in Breakfast, Coffee, Dessert, Food, Homemade, Homemade…hecho en casa, Ice Cream, Lima, Miraflores, pancake, Pancakes, Peru, Pork, Vacation Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Pasteleria San Antonio (San Isidro,) Lima PE

Pasteleria San Antonio

Cornmeal Alfajor

Turron de Dona Pepa

Milhojas

Tres Leches with Candied Fruit and Chantilly Cream

Cinnamon Apple Roll

Quickly discovering that most of Lima’s well-known Bakeries have several locations it was as a final stop after a long day that Dessert was ordered at Pasteleria San Antonio in San Isidro, the all-day Eatery just starting to wind down but still packed in the dining room which led to a seat being taken in the small central area free of waiter service but otherwise just as comfortable.

Originally opened in 1959 and since spawning three additional Cafes with on-site Baking, the store at Av. Angamos Oeste 1494 by far the busiest according to an English-fluent young man working the counter on this particular evening, it was after perusing cases packed with both Sweet and Savory selections including Sandwiches that four items were chose in addition to one suggested by the clerk, his personal favorite “Enrollado Manza” essentially a handheld Apple Pie piped with Cream and Cinnamon Streusel packed around the edges to prevent the Dough from getting soggy.

Offering several classic Latin American Sweets and many prepared in San Antonio’s own special way, the sopping wet Tres Leches with Candied Fruit and Chantilly Cream but one example, it was setting aside some of the bowl to finish that attention turned to three dishes tried elsewhere but improved upon here, the Cornmeal Alfajor good but not quite the best in town while both the layered Milhojas and Turron de Dona Pepa set a high bar, the latter in particular as Anise and Clove both perfumed the palate but avoided being overwhelming thanks to a jammy Brown Sugar Center that veered slightly Citrus.

http://www.pasteleriasanantonio.com/

Posted in Dessert, Food, Lima, Pasteleria San Antonio, Pasteleria San Antonio San Isidro, Peru, San Isidro, Vacation Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Churrisimo, Lima PE

Churrisimo

El Churrisimo – Caramel Filling, Chocolate Dip, Rolled in Chestnuts

El Don Coco – Mocha Filling, Milk Chocolate Dip, Coconut Topping

El Zambito – Fudge Filling, Dark Chocolate Dip, White Chocolate Shavings

Conveniently located across the street from Anticuchos de la Tia Grimanesa, the foot traffic from a constantly filled Restaurant selling nothing but exquisite grilled Meats and boiled Potatoes basically guaranteeing a market for post-dinner Dessert, it was as an impromptu stop that Churrismo became part of Peru’s dining agenda and although more expensive than some locals seem to think is reasonable the results were on par with what one may find stateside for significantly more.

Without doubt a product of the Instagram Era, clever branding and art on the walls paired to highly photogenic concepts including filled Doughnuts and Ice Cream bowls made of fried Dough, it was quickly upon entering the space that rough translation began of a menu written only in Spanish, the housemade Mango Jam unavailable but everything else up for grabs and three “Gourmet” Churros tallying just under $6USD.

Preparing everything to order, in this case even the Dough itself fried fresh as a prior rush had depleted the supply of all but the thinner classics plus a few nuggets, it was as two small Children and their mother debated which items sounded best that a clerk used his bare hands to fill and top thick sticks and pack them in paper, each unwrapped quickly and found to be quite hot with first bites of Churrisimo’s eponymous item showing not a hint of oiliness though the thick Manjar Blanco and Chocolate topped in Chestnuts could probably hide a lot of things given their richness.

Naming each of the Gourmet selections, El Don Coco in this case replacing the aforementioned Fruit filling with Mocha and probably faring better with a flavor not unlike a Mounds Bar, it was as the family received their selections to much excitement that El Zambito predictably proved best saved for last, the thick Fudge’s bitterness magnified by a dip in Dark Chocolate while the White Chocolate shavings got lost save for perhaps adding a bit of texture.

https://www.facebook.com/churroschurrisimo

Posted in Churrisimo, Coffee, Dessert, Food, Lima, Peru, Vacation Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Anticuchos de la Tia Grimanesa, Lima PE

Anticuchos de la Tia Grimanesa

Grilled Beef Heart with Boiled Potatoes

Grilled Chicken with Boiled Potatoes

Returning to Lima late Wednesday, dinner at Rafael cancelled by the Restaurant due to a facilities issue occurring during renovation, it was by way of Uber that a trip was made to Anticuchos de la Tia Grimanesa, the space affectionately known by locals as ATG rumored to be the best place in Peru for Anticuchos and ~$20USD total proving to be an incredible deal for four weighty skewers served with Sauce and Potatoes.

Available across multiple venues, everyone from Maido to Street-carts selling plates of grilled Meat that pre-date the Columbian Era, it is said that Anticuchos arose from Andean culture as people sought ways to use less-desirable cuts of Meat, a lengthy marinade in Vinegar and spices turning Chicken Thighs and Gizzards into a delicacy while just as easily rendering Beef Heart into something as succulent as Tenderloin.

Located at Ca. Ignacio Merino 466 and quick to form a line at 5pm, the narrow space virtually indistinguishable from surrounding businesses by day, guests visiting Anticuchos de la Tia Grimanesa are welcomed at a booth where a small menu hangs next to a cashier who exchanges payment for a ticket, the seating area inside divided into one central table plus thin slabs of slate attached to the wall.

Without doubt a “do one thing, do it well” sort of establishment, one cook in the kitchen rotating skewers over an open flame and occasionally adding Marinade, it was no more than ten minutes after sitting down amongst a packed house that two Styrofoam trays were delivered with Meat still sizzling, the Chicken penetrated so deeply with Herbs and Pepper that dark or light became irrelevant while the more popular Beef Heart was expectedly lean yet easy to cut with the edge of a fork and so well seasoned that it put Steaks served for $50+ back home to shame.

https://www.facebook.com/Anticuchos-de-la-Tia-Grimanesa-113530488761927/

Posted in Anticuchos de la Tia Grimanesa, Anticuchos de la Tia Grimanessa, ATG, Food, Lima, Peru, Vacation Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Kusikuy, Cusco PE

Kusikuy

Pickled Onions and Peppers, Green Aji

Baked Moraya with Melted Cheese, Stewed Onions

Grilled Alpaca, Baked Yellow Potato, Milky Quinoa

Tallarines a la Huanciana with Onions, Peas, Peppers and Steak

Set to depart Cusco around 4:30pm, a mere thirty hours in town regrettably too few, it was down a steep flight of stairs that two diners descended to Kusikuy, the Restaurant’s cash-only policy limiting lunch more than one would have liked but the well-designed space and friendly service making up for the unexpected issue to a degree.

Celebrated for classic Peruvian plates and well-regarded despite a lack of Website, the owner actually living in an upstairs apartment from which birds can be heard chirping over light music, it was with good fortune that one guest fluent in Spanish was able to communicate with waiters while the other navigated a translated menu, several of the “Platos Tipicos” seen elsewhere but others novel and representative of what Staff describes as Andean Cuisine.

Open since 1989 and best known for whole fried Cuy presented not unlike Pig at a Luau, the local delicacy already tasted thrice elsewhere and thus having lost its novelty, it was instead on the owner’s recommendation that rehydrated Potatoes started the meal beneath a blanket of Onions, the light heat of Rocoto Peppers giving each bite added brightness though the Tuber itself was fairly bland.

Moving next to entrees, prices around $13-15USD not out of line considering portions and presentation, it was as one diner took a second look at Alpaca that the other enjoyed Baked Fettuccine served with Steak and Vegetables, the grilled Meats both tender and nicely seasoned though the highlight of the meal turned out to be “milky Quinoa” that tasted a lot like Italian-style Polenta with Mascarpone.

www.facebook.com/kusikuyrestaurante

Posted in Cusco, Food, Kusikuy, Kusikuy Restaurante, Peru, Vacation Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Cicciolina, Cusco PE

Cicciolina

Butter Croissant

Housemade Bread Basket with Chilli Jam, Cream Cheese, Tomato Chutney, Guacamole

Fat Buttery Wheat Pancake with Chancaca Syrup, Fruit, Vanilla Ice Cream

By night Cicciolina is considered one of Cusco’s finest Restaurants, the expansive second story space with an open kitchen decorated not unlike Chicha in dried Vegetables, but during the morning a more casual affair takes place featuring fresh baked Pastries plus a small collection of plates ranging from sweet to savory.

Now open for the better part of two decades and best known for Tapas and Pasta, the later all produced on-site in the ground level bakeshop, guests arriving prior to 10am will find themselves greeted by a pleasant hostess and team of servers as back of house members go about their business preparing for the day to come, high-tops overlooking the street below expectedly popular while the meal’s pace is slow and relaxing.

Playing Jazz overhead with fresh air flowing through windows, squeezed-to-order Juices, Tea or locally roasted Coffee all available to stay or go, it was after perusing the options that Breakfast was crafted from an array of housemade Breads plus the $5.90USD Pancake, everything served warm at once with at least two Rolls fresh from the oven and the whole-Wheat Batter for a Pancake scratch-made when ordered.

Not a low-effort affair, Croissants visibly proofing with two bakers hand mixing and rolling Dough in the take-out area downstairs, it was with a gentle pull that the Viennoiserie broke to yield a soft interior beneath its flaky shell, the Seed and Cereal Rolls to follow both soft and nutty while a light green Baguette and Brioche packed with Olives were both delicious on their own and even better with housemade condiments including Tomato Chutney and Jam made of roasted Chiles.

Impressed by the time and care taken by kitchen staff, though those in a hurry would likely appreciate a bit more mis en place, it was as a ball of Ice Cream began to melt that first bites were taken of a fluffy disc that lived up to its name of “Fat” and “Buttery,” the topping of stewed Lucuma, Orange and Guava all contributing their juices to Cane Sugar Syrup that is added liberally but still not overly sweet.

www.cicciolinacuzco.com

Posted in Bread Basket, Breakfast, Cicciolina, Cicciolina Bakery, Cicciolina Bread & Breakfast, Cicciolina Bread and Breakfast, Croissant, Croissants, Cusco, Dessert, Food, Ice Cream, pancake, Pancakes, Peru, Vacation Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Pantastico, Cusco PE

Pantastico

Vegetable Cheese Pastry

Chicken and Onion Empanada

Dark Chocolate Pan au Chocolat

Dark Chocolate Cake

Lemon Cake

Part B&B and part Bakery, the two separated by several hundred meters with the later up a flight of stairs and tucked away in an alley, it was after a twenty minute walk from Torre Dorada that two guests sat down for breakfast at Pantastico, a multi-lingual server originally from Switzerland performing triple duty as Barista, cashier and busser as patrons came and went with the majority not fluent in Spanish.

Essentially a Coffee Shop and retail outlet for the Hotel, the reason for their separation not entirely clear but a bit confusing to those reliant on Google Maps, it was after perusing options and setting aside two options featuring Passionfruit that five items were selected with all but one quickly rewarmed in the Microwave, the Vegetable Pastry featuring Tomatoes and Peppers good though the Cheese had not melted entirely while a Chicken and Onion Empanada fared better thanks to bold spicing and bits of Chicken Skin that gave the interior added texture.

Told that only local ingredients are used in Pantastico’s products, Chocolate labeled as 70% Cocoa from Peru forming the partially-melted center of a Roll that was described as a “Croissant” despite lacking any evidence of lamination, those interested in something even more chocolaty would do well to order a slice of Cake that eats something like an aerated Brownie while fans of Citrus should set their sights on Lemon Cake that is moist and tangy with only a touch of sweetness added by way of the Frosting.

www.pan-tastico.com

Posted in Breakfast, Croissant, Croissants, Cusco, Dessert, Food, Pantastico, Peru, Vacation Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Hotel Torre Dorada, Cusco PE

Hotel Torre Dorada

Coca Tea

Coffee

Traditional Andean Bread with Pineapple Jam and Peanut Butter

Quinoa Porridge with Brown Sugar, Coconut Cookies, Plantain Cake

Selected for its full-service reservations to Machu Picchu and excellent customer service it was on the morning of departure for Lima that Breakfast was taken at Torre Dorada Hotel, the Ham Sandwich with store-bought Bread, Banana and Juice they’d packed for lunch one day prior an admitted disappointment but the collection of Cereals, Pastries and Porridge faring better while Omelets prepared on request for other guests also looked nicely made.

www.torredorada.com

Posted in Breakfast, Coffee, Cusco, Dessert, Food, Hotel Torre Dorada, Peru, Torre Dorada, Vacation Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Inka Grill House, Aguas Calientes PE

Inka Grill House

Alpaca Chumichan, Avocado Cream, Fried Corn Crisps

Lomo Saltado alo Criollo – Stir Fry Beef, Tomatoes, Onions, French Fries, White Rice

Baked Guinea Pig, Papas Doradas, Criolla Salad

Plantain Pancake with 62% Peruvian Chocolate Sauce

Guayaba and Cocona Pancake with 62% Peruvian Chocolate Sauce

For all of its wonder and tourist traffic Aguas Calientes is no dining destination, the base camp for over 400,000 annual visitors to Machu Picchu instead doubling down on tourist traps and cheap souvenirs which led two sun-burnt visitors to Inka Grill House after hiking the Citadel.

Situated on the East end of town and empty at 3:00pm, the Chef and his staff of two watching televised Soccer from Spain on arrival, it was with friendly smiles that guests were welcomed and offered a seat, Wine and glasses already present but declined in favor of Bottled Water as menus were perused.

Offering a list of Peruvian Classics with occasional Mexican plates, the later likely catering to travelers unwilling to explore indigenous cuisine, it was after asking a few questions and walking through the kitchen to a restroom that makes it seem like the owner lives an attached apartment that two appetizers and an entrée were ordered, each taking quite a while to come out as the stone oven and antique stove had both been extinguished.

Watching the Chef and his assistant work while waiting, the wood-fired oven started with an old Samsung television box warming as Appetizers were prepared from scratch, it was alongside two warm Tortillas stuffed with grilled Alpaca that the trip’s first true Lomo Saltado arrived, the combination of Beef, Fries and Rice not dissimilar to Fajitas in terms of flavor while the makeshift Burritos showed why lean and chewy Pack Animals are probably not eaten in North America or Western Europe.

Mindful of time due to a train back to Cusco at 4:35, the oven slowly coming to temperature thanks to damp air from a recent rainfall, it was nearly an hour after sitting down that baked Cuy arrived with crispy Potatoes topped in creamy Dressing, the ‘picture worth a thousand words’ idea of a Pet on the plate expectedly not dissimilar from Rabbit beneath an herbal dry rub and certainly nothing craveable unless one has a cultural attachment to it.

Tricked by menu pictures into thinking Panqueque were slices of Cake, the Spanish speaker at the table only voicing her opinion several minutes later, it was with time as an issue that two rolled Pancakes were taken via Styrofoam clamshells to the train, the Plantain version lodging a Jack Johnson song in the brain for several hours while Guava and Coconut were a tropical treat whether eaten alone or topped in melted local Chocolate.

http://www.inkagrillhouse.com/

Posted in Aguas Calientes, Cusco, Dessert, Food, Machu Picchu, pancake, Pancakes, Peru, Vacation Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,