Reinvigorating Copenhagen’s Hovedbibliotek in 2011, and since earning a fair share of press thanks to their use of Sweden’s Koppi Roasters and a top-tier Pastry program, Democratic Coffee Bar proved to be a worthy first stop for Friday Breakfast, the Public Library not yet open at the time of an 08h05 arrival but a few guests already present and accounted for with beverages in hand with one group already in the midst of a Skype-meeting.
Literally a contiguous space with the Library, only a doorless port separating the multi-storied atrium from a cafe bathed in light with parallel blonde wood bars for service and seating, it was with purpose that a steady line of Danes entered and exited the Bar, the rumors of Pastries selling out long before the place closes up at 19h00 proving highly likely as many gathered up boxes for work, though not before a total of five were bagged or plated and ready to indulge in.
Selling both Whole Beans and brewing paraphernalia on black shelving at the far end of the Bar, the equipment behind the counter all top grade, it was as light music played overhead that WiFi was accessed before delving into a soft Roll dotted with dried Fruit and Seeds, the skin featuring a good chew not unlike a Bagel while the inside was naturally Sweet, two slices of Semi-Soft Cheese a far more compelling topping than packaged Organic Butter, though first bites of a Croissant suggested that if this was the same product used for cooking it certainly was not bad, the exterior layers shattering and crisp with an interior that was warm and soft.
Attempting to decide between Chocolate and Almond next, the latter by far Democratic’s most celebrated selection, it was largely a result of temperature that led to a Pain au Chocolate being tasted next, the core opening up much wider than that before it though the duo of Cocoa cores could have stood to be a little thicker, the Chocolate Chip Cookie softly pulled in half making far better use of the ingredient amidst a base lightly perfumed in Cinnamon but plenty rich with Butter and Brown Sugar.
At this point fairly impressed, though a little surprised that everything save for the Almond Croissant had been warm to touch on arrival, it was with expectations built up by both independent and in-house propaganda that “The best almond croissant I have ever eaten” was tasted, the baked, filled and re-baked Pastry well constructed and not overly sweet but a far cry from those in France, San Francisco or even Las Vegas, not to mention Bageriet Brød in the same city at Enghave Plads 7.
Birch Ice Cream, Celeriac, Tonka Bean, Long Pepper, Cocoa
Coffee Frozen Meringue
Matcha Puff Pastry, Garden Herbs, Lemon Verbena
Located on the far east end of Frederiksberg Have, a truly lovely setting passed by many times on bike to and from Central Copenhagen, it was for dinner on Thursday night that a trusted friend as well as a hotel concierge prompted dinner at Mielcke & Hurtigkarl, the restaurant ranked #30 in White Guide Nordic unfortunately suffering from a service shortage and a kitchen that seemed all too willing to venture away from the The New Nordic Kitchen Manifesto, though rarely to anyone’s benefit.
Toqued by Chef Jakob Mielcke and managed by Jan Hurtigkarl, the former sporting a Pierre Gagnaire pedigree by way of both Rue Balzac and Sketch in London with the later very familiar with Copenhagen’s dining revolution after over thirty years in the industry, it was just prior to 19h30 that the restaurant garden was approached on foot, a male Peacock strutting about past iced Champagne as a reservation was confirmed, a complimentary glass of Champagne gifted from one of the Restaurant’s fans kicking things off along with a bouquet of Cabbage and Arugula Blossoms intended to be dragged through creamy Cod Roe.
Continuing outdoor service across three more bites before transitioning indoors, a similar pattern followed by each table to follow, course two presented a rosy Langoustine glazed in Papaya and Kalamansi prior to Pear slices topped in an unpleasant powder of Bergamot and Licorice, Chef Mielcke’s love of the hunt next described as diners were offered bites of Roe Deer Sausage and lightly grilled Boar’s Meat.
Packed to capacity on this particular evening, two large parties of at least a dozen each plus a well-heeled American couple celebrating their wedding engagement each commanding a disproportionate amount of attention while the larger tables were clearly a stretch for the kitchen as wait times exceeding twenty-five minutes more than once separated one course from the next, dinner next rolled into two amuses including a refreshing plate of poached Oysters served beneath Summer Peas and Radish plus cooling Cucumber Granita, a follow-up of Scallop, White Miso and dissolved ‘snow’ clearly attempting to take a note from Gagnaire’s book but unfortunately more reminiscent of mucous in terms of both texture and the overwhelming amount of salt.
Decorated in big chandeliers with dancing lights on the ceiling and walls adorned with everything from plastic bugs to contemporary art it was with a single slice of Sourdough and aggressively herbed Butter that the proper 7-course meal began, the emulsified sauce of a Lemon Sole filet clearly taking cues from the room’s modern design but unfortunately buying it’s mild flesh with salt once again front and center by way of Chicken Skin, Kelp and preserved Cucumbers.
An inauspicious start to be certain, each plate to follow continuing a trend where one less ingredient would have been preferable to more, N’duja Agnolotti proved to be the meal’s indisputable highlight as three tiny pockets of Pasta were stuffed with housemade spicy Sausage that found its foil in whipped Mascarpone and shaved Parmesan, the unnecessary Sorrel thankfully just a faint note on the finish and nowhere near as distracting as the Pine Needles that thoroughly imbalanced White Asparagus made green by way of ground Pistachios.
Once again showing glimmers of talent by way of a sizable Sweetbread seared crisp on the exterior but still creamy at the center in a bowl of Eggplant Puree, Ponzu and Herbs it was with palates cleansed by a crispy Tuille containing Sea Buckthorn and Ginger that the meal reached its apex in a dish described as “Pork” despite clearly being Beef, the aggressive salinity of prior plates thankfully not present but instead replaced by Garlic and Celeriac, the ‘earthy’ notes taken up a notch by way of Rum and Char that came across excessively bitter and Bread long ago finished thus leaving diners drinking only water with an unpleasant wait of nearly thirty minutes before a complicated Cheese course was presented with lightly melted Granbark beneath Summer Truffles alongside a savory Croissant, Currant Jam and crushed Hazelnut and Straciatella Mousse.
At this point approaching 22h30, a friend’s story of finishing his whole meal at Mielcke & Hurtigkarl in under two hours apparently far from the norm, it was with only one bite of a dish including both Passion Fruit and Habanero Oil that the rest was sent back to the kitchen, a foamy dish of Strawberries, Caramel and Plums with Almonds floated in Woodruff Oil beautiful in its balance while the third Dessert failed to prove Celeriac can be hidden, the lemony Puff Pastry and Frozen Meringue served 220 minutes after originally sitting down at least closing things out on a pleasant note.
To anyone who has ever visited Copenhagen the local fascination with the word “Organic” should be all too familiar, servers at top-tables going out of their way to stress everything from Proteins to Produce as “Certified” when applicable and restaurants such as Neighbourhood Organic Pizza & Cocktails proudly displaying their adherence to guidelines with lengthy descriptions such as “Neghbourhood is a gold certified organic restaurant. As according to the regulatory requirements for gold certified organic restaurants at least 90% of the ingredients are organic. Accounts of the ingredients used are submitted to the Danish food safety authorities (“Fødevarestyrelsen”) on a quarterly basis and are subject to regular control.”
Popular for its convivial atmosphere across two locations, both offering a popular Brunch on weekends and late hours seven-days a week, it was as part of a late afternoon snack that a stop was made at the space found amongst Gentleman’s Clubs and Youth Hostels on Thursday, only a few additional patrons accounted for on the inside while al fresco seating was filled to capacity with locals and tourists alike.
Described as a “hangout” by ownership, the intention to keep things light embraced by way of off-hand service that spends a lot of time flirting with females and upselling Wine and Cocktails as opposed to taking orders and clearing tables, it was shortly upon entry that seating was offered at a communal hightop with barstools, the situation acceptable though not especially comfortable when a plethora of proper tables were open as classic American rock from the late 1970s and early 80s played at a modest level overhead.
Seasonally focused in both food and drink, Pizzas making up the vast majority of the menu with just a few bar Snacks available otherwise, it was after a rather lengthy wait that the same individual who’d been seating guests stopped by with a bottle of Water to take orders, a tough decision setting aside Neighbourhood’s famous Pig and Apple Pie in favor of something that seemed too interesting to pass up, a plank of Root Vegetable Crisps quick to arrive with Tarragon Cream in a portion that was unfortunately not enough to go around.
Creating their own style of Pizza based on a Sourdough starter, the Dough rolled out in thin sheets at low volume after a lengthy ferment, it was perhaps fifteen minutes after the order was placed that an uncut Pie topped in Salt Cod, Hazelnut Butter, Potatoes, Dill and Mascarpone was presented, the flavor briny and fragrant with a great crackle to the Crust beneath as diners are left to decide whether or not to add fresh Arugula and Peppers served in a small pile.
Eating far lighter than the average Pie, a single diner of any constitution likely able to finish a whole Pizza on her or his own, those looking for a sweet finish are limited to three 65DKK choices, the Citron Fromage and ‘Oranged’ Chocolate Mousse not particularly appealing by way of the description but the Organic Affogato going above Gelato and Coffee by way of two big scoops of Housemade Tahitian Vanilla Ice Cream plus a big gob of Salted Caramel amidst Granola and candied Seeds.
Chocolate and Salted Licorice Paleta with Dried Blueberry
Originally opened in Torvehallerne and since expanded to Kødbyen, Copenhagen’s Meat Packing District, Hija de Sanchez was born out of owner Rosio Sanchez’s desire to bring food from her youth to a new life in Copenhagen, a childhood in South Chicago as a first generation Mexican American giving her an appreciation for the sort of spices rarely seen in Nordic Countries, but time cooking at noma and other Michelin Guide Restaurants giving her the confidence to strike out on her own and do something completely different.
Originally launched in 2015 at the Market, her following growing quickly thanks to handmade Tortillas and Salsas plus Tacos made in the traditional Mexican fashion with occasional local influences such as Fish Skin or Fjord Shrimp creeping in, it was as part of a midday snack that a stop was made at the second location where several locals were enjoying the late-day rays of Danish Summer, the online menu unfortunately a bit deceiving in that it lists nearly a dozen Proteins even though only two are offered each day, the Paletas a similar situation with Thursday only featuring one, the prices also quite high with a total bill of 185DKK (nearly $30USD) for a total of four items.
Targeted to be both approachable and authentic, a visit to Kiin-Kiin showing that ‘spicy’ is definitely a relative term in Denmark, it was with a seat taken near a small Piñata that a few minutes were passed before the order was ready, first bites of the Beef Tongue with Guacachile, raw Onion and Cilantro showing the meat to be tender but not particularly flavorful on a great shell, the Al Pastor shaved from a small spit by far and away the spiciest thing tasted in Scandinavia and on par with anything tasted in Mexico with a juicy chunk of charred Pineapple helping to quell the fire.
Chucking at a sign teaching locals how to eat a taco as the finishing touches were applied to three Flautas, the thick Corn taking well to a flash frying and coming out crisp without a drop of residual oil, Sanchez and team again showed a good hand with Beef by way of spicy Barbacoa and Black Beans stuffed into three tubes topped with diced Cabbage and Fresh Cheese, the Popsicle taken to go described as Salted Licorice but fairly mild in terms of Ansie flavors with the overall balance more like White Chocolate with a texture and sweetness added by dehydrated Fruit on top.
Located in Skåne-Tranås Sweden, about 2.5 hours from Copenhagen by way of Train and Bus for those who plan the route in advance, Daniel Berlin Krog is one of those out-of-the way places known about by those who travel to dine that has recently gained attention in the popular media, the young Chef operating his restaurant and inn without compromise and surrounded by family.
Taking locavorism to a new level ever since departing Malmo to open something more intimate in 2009, the eponymous restaurant inside a pale yellow house sourcing nearly 3/4 of its ingredients from the Chef’s own yard or garden with the rest coming from within 3 miles, it was on foot from the Bus Stop that guests approached the space just a few hundred meters away, Berlin himself standing out in the middle of the street with a broad smile saying “Welcome, I presume you’re looking for me?” before leading each one to an outdoor patio which was finally warm enough to seat diners for the very first time in 2017.
At this point a fairly difficult reservation at either lunch or dinner, the online system on his site clearly stating when certain dates will become available and usually booked to capacity for ~3 month blocks within a few hours several months in advance, diners joining Berlin at lunch are promised a seven-course Chef’s tasting that is doubled by way of canapés, amuses and mignardises, dietary preferences welcomed and usually able to be accounted for as the restaurant reaches out to inquire by e-mail nearly 48 hours in advance.
In many ways not unlike other great Nordic restaurants in terms of its focus on foraging and preservation, but perhaps even more focused than noma or kadeau in terms of its chef’s fanaticism for terroir, lunch at the small table shaded by a tent began with a gently poached Quail Egg wrapped in two types of housemade Charcuterie and topped with Herbs from the garden, a creamy single bite flooding the mouth with flavor with bite number two similar yet different, a crispy ring of Wheat damming in a flood of Tarragon Cream topped with tiny snips of the garden’s very first Broccoli.
Having now received enough recognition to support other members of the community, Hogs “raised just up the road” and Butter “from a farm just a mile that way ::pointing::” featured in courses to follow, dish three saw confit Pork Belly served as a Jam atop a leavened Pancake also topped in preserved Plums, compressed apple and Cress, the liver of a Pigeon shot on-property just a few days prior following in the form of a creamy twig coated in bold spices and Chestnut Flour.
Next showing off the breadth of his garden by way of crudités served on a large block of ice, the tangle of shaved Zucchini and salted Pumpkin Seeds a very memorable bite despite the apparent simplicity of just two ingredients, Bread at Daniel Berlin is also special in that the stone-ground Wheat is enhanced by the skins of Vegetables roasted and folded into the batter while the Butter comes in two forms, both good but the Goat version particularly funky and impressive enough that one may want a second loaf as an excuse to finish every last bit of it.
Eschewing any desire to source luxury ingredients like Caviar, Foie Gras or exotic fishes, Berlin instead finding his muse in local streams and fields where he and his team hunt, fish and pick, course one of the proper menu featured thin slices of Mackerel served in a spiral atop fresh Peas and a fragrant Green Broth, the Cucumbers to follow taking on a similar form with Raw Shrimp in an acidic bath of Rhubarb floating Dill Oil.
Transitioning from cold to warm with course three, everything eating very light and clean with a focus on the subtle interplay between flesh and Herbs, Dayboat Cod was presented as an inch thick disc filling the bottom of a bowl with a level pour of foamy Birch Butter and crunchy Broad Beans, the Flower Petals adding a bitterness that bridged well to a dish of Cauliflower Soup thickened with Egg Yolk and Mushrooms with cracklins’ made of Rooster Skin.
Truly a lovely setting, the service professional but friendly and the gentle breeze enough to almost lull one to sleep between courses, a filet of Halibut was next presented to diners between grilled Cabbage and meaty pieces off the Fish’s back cooked in Bone Marrow, a three-piece discovery of locally raised Lamb following alongside a gently cooked Onion rounding out savories en route to a truly exemplary Cheese Course offering the same Goat’s Milk aged for 10 day and 3 months alongside three types of Bread and a trio of Jams and Jellies.
Declining Coffee or Tea, the likelihood of either being ‘local’ fairly low anyhow, it was with two Desserts that the two and a half hour experience came to a finish, the bowl of Cow’s Colostrum, fresh Sheep’s Milk and Frozen Buttermilk a beautiful composition with just a touch of Citrus while the Berry Sorbet translated in any language as the pure essence of summer.
Part two of a pastry route to Copenhagen Central Station, a stop at Valby’s Vores Brød showing it to be below average for Danish Bakeries, it was with good fortune that a local recommended Bageriet Brød at Enghave Plads 7 as one of the city’s best, the independently owned space currently hidden behind construction but worth seeking out for friendly customer service and a collection of Baked Goods that are a little different from the usual.
Rumored to be in possession of several recipes from Tartine’s Chad Robertson and proudly featuring a Sourdough Starter from Meyer’s Bageri, the same starter available to any guest who might choose to stop in with a container, those happening upon Bageriet Brød will immediately find themselves challenged on entry to decide between what must be over two dozen styles of Pastries and Loaves, the prices lower than most but certainly not to be mistaken for a lack of quality.
Short on floorspace, much like the rest of Copenhagen’s mom n’ pop Bakeries, but offering several outdoor tables overlooking a park currently under renovation “that is taking forever” according to an elderly clerk, it was with 110DKK exchanged that five items were unloaded from two bags in the morning sun of early July, first bites of Cereal Bread made of ground Oats enlivening the taste buds by way of unexpected dried Fruit flavors in a malty matrix, the following Sugar Brioche with a touch of Citrus caramelized and sticky on the surface with gentle notes of Butter on the flaky layers within.
Intrigued by several of the full sized loaves, but aware of the fact that there was much eating still to be one throughout the day, it was next that bites were taken of the Raspberry Jam Danish that was unfortunately a bit dry compared to its Custard counterparts despite being well constructed and not too sweet, better bites found in the stretchy Cinnamon Braid with sliced Almonds both inside and atop as well as a twice-baked Croissant that rivals those in France without a bit of Frangipane to be found, the top instead lightly dusted in Confectioners’ Sugar and sliced nuts while the cavity is filled with ground Almonds and a lot of Butter instead of the typical cloying paste.
Independently owned in Valby, the store tucked away on the inner sidewalk of a park, Vores Brød kicked off an early Thursday en route to Sweden by way of Copenhagen Central Station, the doors unlocked at 07h00 with a great waft of yeast quickly greeting guests who’d been waiting and the young woman behind the counter ready to answer questions though the majority of the morning’s lot was still on racks with prices and descriptions nowhere to be seen.
Small in footprint and even more condensed in customer space, the ovens and countertops taking up the bulk of the store with no seating indoors or out, it was instead with two warm bags in hand that a collection of five treats was taken to a small bench in the park to be enjoyed, first bites of an Organic Oatmeal Roll showing a good crust and chewy interior full of toasty notes while the Tebirke to follow unfortunately saw almost the entire shellacking of Poppy Seeds fall to the ground during the first bite, the lost balance to a thick layer of Butter and Sugar filling leaving the pastry sort of one note and not unlike a Kouign Amann without the caramelization.
Saving the rest for a snack while waiting for the train to Malmo, the goods cooling slightly but still warm to touch, Vores Brød showed well in terms of both the Cinnamon Roll and Custard Danish, the former perhaps a bit overworked and thus a bit stiff but still well flavored while the later banked on a butter instead of sweetness around gooey Egg Custard, the final bites invested in a chewy bar of Museli that was half-dipped in Chocolate with the other side sort of dull, devoid of sweetness save for a few Raisins and mostly tasting of Pumpkin or Sunflower Seeds.
Mango Cornet – Lemon Ants / Donuts Mikkel Friis Holm
Buttermilk Pancake – Anti-Griddle Crepe, Peanuts, Orange, Grand Marnier
Located in Northern Østerbro, a fifteen seat counter said to be producing some of the most innovative food in the world at this time, Alchemist is as much a social commentary as it is a restaurant and on July 5th 2017 Chef Rasmus Munk went above and beyond to exceed expectations and serve his 45-course menu for just one guest when the online reservation system allowed a lone diner to book on the day before the Chef and his staff were to go on holiday.
Anything but a ‘typical’ restaurant, particularly in a part of the world where a singular vision based on The New Nordic Kitchen Manifesto has flooded the dining scene with locavore fanaticism and minimally manipulated ingredients from names like Redzepi and Puglisi, Alchemist looks to instead build a rapport with its guests by way of an immersive universe built around the music, décor and stories behind each dish, the 26 year old Chef challenging diners to explore ideas of what is edible and how dining relates to personal beliefs and memories.
Undoubtedly a well-traveled young man, his interest in cooking actually blossoming fairly late but already with trips to Japan and time at Michelin 3* Geranium and Bray’s Fat Duck helping to shape his skills, dinner at Alchemist is presented as a series of eight ‘acts’ with 5-6 items each, the squeamish quickly made aware of the Chef’s intentions by Lemon Granita topped in Wood Ants and Elderflower following a glass of Champagne, some modernist flourishes quick to follow with a one-bite liquid-centered Cherry and a Tomato on its stem with Chipotle Mayo Cream and an edible bag of Spices.
Presented in a manner that frequently seems intended to overwhelm, the time between plates easily calibrated to diners’ preferences when all but one seat sat empty as a brooding electric violin played on, it was in between conversation with a lone female server that plate after plate arrived, the “Ashtray” of Smashed Potatoes, Glazed Onions and Roasted Bacon a tribute to Munk’s Grandmother who died of lung cancer while freshly shucked Peas anchored a tiny Tart perfumed by Mustard Seed, Lavender, Mint.
Transitioning Acts by way of a Cocktail, those with a low Alcohol tolerance well advised to show restraint, it with pursed lips that a sour Gin-based Cocktail was sipped from inside a whole frozen Lemon, a perfect segue to Razor Clam Crudo with Citrus and Caviar that Munk warns guests *does not feature* an edible shell “since Chef Kofoed would kick my ass,” follow-ups of an Oyster in Comte Foam and a freshly shucked Scallop with Duck Liver and preserved Truffles both rich and luxurious, as was ‘dancing’ Katsubushi on King Crab and spreadable Lobster Salad inside a ‘shell’ made of freeze-dried Lobster Coral.
Telling some amusing stories about a trip to Mexico where little was remembered but the Tequila as she poured flavors of spice and sour from a Dia de los Muertos decanter, act three would feature more pescetarian choices starting with a Cone of Caviar atop raw Black Cod, the oft photographed “Life or Death” dish giving diners the choice to senselessly sacrifice a Goldfish or give it some feed as they enjoyed a briny bite, the Unagi Burger with Fresh Wasabi and dried Oysters an absolute umami-bomb preceding Barbeque Turbot with bones made edible.
Warned not to take the Fish Fume in “one gulp,” a creamy potage which explores variations in temperature far larger in portion than it appears, act four was promised to be a ‘challenge’ for many, Chef Munk explaining sustainable Foie Gras farming in Spain before asking guests to indulge gavage-style in Goose Liver Mousse with the ingredients typically used to fatten the fowl, a cleaned skull of Lamb next unveiling a surprise of Maggots and Ants as diners cracked through the Occipital Bone, the flavor mostly salty before things really got strange with a full frozen Heart unveiled from a Dry-Ice Organ Donors box, the chilly Tartare sprayed with ‘blood’ from an IV Bag as the server handed out an Organ Donation card to help increase awareness of Denmark’s ‘opt-in’ induced need.
Next taking on the idea of food waste by way of ‘cheese’ made from Cow’s Udder atop the flavors of a Caesar Salad, Rooster Testicles to follow with Lime and Peanuts grilled Tableside, it was with a fairly straightforward Laksa Soup that nutty flavors were bridged into a tiny Steam Bun topped in Pickles, Cashews and Pork Neck, the Asian theme continued by way of Chicken Feet made entirely edible by way of chemistry, freeze drying and deep frying.
Showing off some quality sourcing with drapes of A5 Hyogo Kobe before progressing into messy Pigtails topped in Teriyaki fresh from the Yakatori Grill it was once again here that Munk decided to remind diners to question their preconceptions, five Pill Bugs sacrificed to flavor Tom Yum Soup before rolling into a four-part Cheese Course including the Chef’s favorite after-school Snack paired to the intro from Beverly Hills 90210.
Clearly a fan of Japanese ideas, the next day’s trip destined for Tokyo, it was with a traditional Ice Shaver that Rasmus next produced a palate cleanser to transition palates sweet, the Danish Kobenhavnerstang not particularly cloying thanks to Milk mellowing Passion Fruit and a nice lead-in to Rhubarb beneath powdered Cream, sheets of compressed Vanilla in good Olive Oil and a delicate sandwich made entirely of Caramel.
Having all sorts of fun with “The Painting,” an edible canvas that guests are asked to paint in fruit flavors before enjoying, it was here that Coffee refreshed the palate en route to the meal’s conclusion, a carried ‘Food Truck’ bearing a cone of Mango with Ants following up Chocolate Turtles and a very realistic appearing Gummy Earthworm before finishing strong with a dainty Donut and Frozen Buttermilk Pancakes brought to room temperature by flaming Grand Marnier.
Truly an outstanding experience, the fact that Chef Munk honored a reservation he never had to speaking volumes about the character of a young man who seems poised for big things, it should seem fairly obvious that Alchemist is ‘not for everyone,’ but for those entering with an open mind the rewards are myriad and a reminder that “modernist cuisine” can still be truly breathtaking when placed in the hands of someone working with skill and passion.
Triple on a Cone – Straciatella, Coffee with Caramelized White Chocolate, Pistachio
Opened in Summer 2014 at Rosenvængets Allé 7C, a location not far from several Coffee Shops and Cafes, Østerberg Ice Cream invites guests to “taste the world” by way of flavors crafted of local Cow’s milk and ingredients sourced from far and wide.
Named after the Østerbro area in which it is located as well as, ironically, owner Cathrine Østerberg whose knowledge of exotic produce comes by way of a family that launched Østerberg International Fruit Company in the 1970s, it was sometime around 17h00 on a Wednesday between lunch at Geranium and dinner at Alchemist that a visit was paid to the small shop with limited signage, the July weather seeing a few locals on a bench outside with several more lined up inside for a taste.
Just about to celebrate its third anniversary, an opening collection of flavors now increased to a catalogue of nearly one hundred options with the small batch method making precisely a dozen available each day by the scoop, it was after a brief wait and several translations by the bearded clerk that samples were requested, the spoonfuls far larger than those typically presented in Italy or the United States fully coating the mouth in flavors like Lychee and Salted Licorice that were very tempting while Elderflower a bit too floral and Sea Buckthorn far more concentrated than the berry itself with a linger not unlike Passion Fruit.
Charging 24DKK for one scoop, 30 for two and 36 for three, a fairly significant deal for those who wish to enjoy more at less than one US Dollar per additional flavor, it was after a few more tastes that the decision was made to go with a freshly made Waffle Cone topped in a complimentary trio, the Straciatella not unlike Gelato in terms of its density with Chocolate Chunks spread throughout while the Coffee and Caramelized White Chocolate was similar in texture with bold roasty notes, the light green Pistachio proving to be almost on par with that at Milan’s Il Massimo with tiny grounds of the Nuts adding a subtle heterogeneity to the otherwise satin mouthfeel.
Cinnamon Bread Pie with Melted Icing and Whipped Cream
Banoffee Pie with Caramel and Toffee Cream
Located in Central Copenhagen, not far from Conditori La Glace where the Grande Dame of Copenhagen Desserts has reigned since 1870, The American Pie Company stands out in a sea of shopping thanks to its novelty, the quirky corner store from Erin Eberhardt-Chapman and Dorte Prip opened in 2015 as the first American Pie shop in all of Denmark continuing to wow customers with good ol’ fashioned slices and a soundtrack featuring the likes of Tom Petty, The Guess Who and Don McLean.
Born out of homesickness and a love of baking, American expatriate Chapman first producing a pair of Danish Language Cookbooks to gather funds for the eventual shop at Skindergade 25, those entering The American Pie Company with no previous experience will immediately be struck by the sort of kitsch that those born Stateside have come to know by way of countless Diners and Television depictions, the Stars and Stripes hung on one wall with neon “PIE” in capital letters behind a counter where Coffee is brewed strong and over a dozen Pies are offered daily.
At this point as widely accepted by locals as by tourists, a smattering of savory Pies mixed in with both classic and novel Desserts luring in those mostly speaking Danish on this particular afternoon, it was with a broad smile that each guest was greeted at the register, and although several tough choices were made before a decision was finally reached the selected trio spoke to not only good ingredients but a lot of time and effort, “Yo Mamma’s” Apple Cinnamon Pie fashioned in the American Dutch Style with a rolled Butter Crust plus a topcoat of Sugar Crystals all overlying Cinnamon-soaked and softened local Apples.
Undoubtedly true to its name with additional choices including Stonefruit Crumble and Lemon Meringue, but also looking to London for inspiration in the form of a creamy Banoffee Pie with thick Caramel Custard topped in Whipped Cream studded with crumbled Toffee, it was with a rewarmed slice of Cinnamon Bread Pie with Melted Icing and Hand-Whipped Cream that the sampling came to a finish, the small cubes of Brioche toasted on the surface and springy beneath very sweet by local standards but not dissimilar from what one might expect of an American Cinnamon Roll.
“Dill Stone,” Horseradish and Frozen Juice from Pickled Dill and Cucumber Granita
Nettles, Smoked Cheese and Dried Oysters
Yellow Beets, Aromatic Seeds, Yogurt Juice and Beach Plant Oil
Grilled White Asparagus, Chervil and Chive Blossoms, Dried Trout
Salted Hake, Ash, Parsley Stems and Belgian Caviar in Buttermilk
Crispy Grains, Bread with Old Grains, Gluten Free Bread with Seeds and Butter with Buttermilk and Sorrel
Langoustine in Juniper Aroma, Ingrid Marie Reduction, Browned Butter
Lightly Salted Turbot, Green Herbs, Celeriac, Pickled Pine
Tartlet with Fjord Shrimp, Sol, Chive and Thyme Blossoms with Pickled Elderflowers
Cabbage Sprouts, Chicken, Pickled Quail Egg, Cepes and Hay Beer
A Bite of Beetroot, Black Currant, Yogurt and Tagetes
Ice Cream from Beeswax and Pollen with Intense Rhubarb
Caramel with Roasted Grain and Green Strawberry
“This is the End” Salted Licorice Mousse
Pumpkin Tree, Pumpkin Cake with Pumpkin Seed Oil, Caramel, Dried Plum Juice and Aromatic Seeds, Chocolate with Oats and Sea Buckthorn, Marshmallow with Rose Hip, Green Egg with Pine
Currently holding position #19 among San Pellegrino’s “The World’s 50 Best Restaurants,” the only Michelin 3* in Copenhagen even during the era of noma and recently ranked as the top Restaurant in The Nordics by The White Guide it is accurate to say that Geranium reigns high over the rest of region’s culinary elite, a location on the eighth floor of Denmark’s national soccer stadium overlooking the Fælledparken making this both a literal and figurative statement.
Toqued by Rasmus Kofoed, his collection of bronze, silver and gold statues from the Bocuse d’Or standing guard over a small lounge, it was just past noon on Wednesday that a brief walk was made from Østerport Station to the back corner of Telia Parken, only a stylized sign indicating the location of a restaurant accessed by elevator, the doors opening directly on the hostess desk where reservations are confirmed with diners soon face-to-face with an airy space looking lengthwise on a gorgeous dining room and exhibition kitchen.
Considered by many to be the next step in Scandinavian Cuisine, Kofoed’s cooking taking ideas of The New Nordic Kitchen Manifesto and presenting them in all their glory with the sort of plating featured at luxe Hotel D’Angleterre rather than the humble stylings of his noma contemporaries, diners visiting Geranium in its current home will immediately be struck by a glorious expanse focused on both nature and a restaurant working silently despite perpetual motion, the mood cheerful yet professional throughout 20+ plates currently highlighting the “Summer Universe.”
Turning fellow-Chef Søren Ledet into Dining Room Manager and Sommelier shortly after opening, Mr. Ledet presenting each guest with a glass of bubbles upon seating, it was mere moments later that the first of several Chefs arrived tableside with a bowl described by a list of its ingredients, the cloudy broth of Carrot Juice sweetened by Sea Buckthorn and fortified by Whey acting as a delicate perfume to the Lobster Custard beneath it.
Not differentiating Amuses or Canapes from actual ‘courses,’ the parade of flavors coming from the kitchen with flawless pacing over the course of three hours, it was following three “leaves” fashioned from Sunchoke that Kofoed’s signature dish of Razor Clam and Sour Cream in an edible shell left nearly everyone in the room smiling, a follow-up of clarified Tomato Water with a float of Ham Fat faintly reminiscent of Stuffed Cabbage after the addition of a spoonful of Herbs and Flower Petals.
Declining Wine or Juice Pairings, though descriptions from the tables surrounding made each sound quite impressive with the later particularly unique compared to what is available elsewhere in the capitol, dish five would unfortunately offer the meal’s lone slip-up by way of “Dill Stones” served with a Sauce of Horseradish and Cucumber Granita, the flavors far too aggressive to be washed away with water alone and thus not only unpleasant on their own, but enough to taint the palate for both the Nettle and Beet dishes to follow.
Thankful for the Yogurt liquids that just so happened to be part of a dish described as a “bonus course,” the acid finally liberating both tongue and sinuses from Dill and heat, it was not a minute too soon as Grilled Asparagus and Trout as well as the disc of Salted Hake bound by Ash were two of the meal’s standouts, the former an aromatic composition with a bright herbal flavors and a touch of umami while the follow-up turned 180° with a velvety texture and iodine finding its foil in tangy Buttermilk and Parsley.
At this point offering Bread Service, a pair of Wheat Crackers alongside addictive two-bite Ancient Grain Loaves and moist Gluten Free Muffins topped with Seeds that paired great with Housemade Butter fortified in Buttermilk and Sorrel, dish ten was being presented for the first time in the dining room that day and although the tableside torching in Juniper seemed mostly for show the flavor of Langoustine presented in Danish Apple Broth with Browned Butter was absolutely beautiful, the sweetness more restrained than one might guess and an elegant lead-in to roasted Turbot topped with a ‘skin’ of Mousseline served in a Sauce of pickled Pine and roasted Bones.
A tasting menu in the truest sense of the word, each dish continuing a theme and often leaving diners wanting a bite more despite fully expressing the Chef’s intentions, dish fourteen featured a dazzling Tartlet topped in crispy Shrimp with herbs and Elderflower, the afternoon’s final savory a dish of confit Chicken and pickled Eggs served beneath a blanket of Mushrooms, Peas and Cruciferous Vegetables.
At this point led on a tour of the restaurant, everything from the wine room to the offices and Kofoed’s Test Kitchen all put on full display, it was shortly after a return to the table that the Summer Universe transitioned to sweets, a crispy Beetroot shell housing Black Currant, Yogurt and Marigold assertive and balanced before the back-and-forth sampling of lightly sweetened Ice Cream and compressed Rhubarb in its own Juices, the small Cake in a pool of Caramel with Green Strawberries and an icy disc a bit less flavorful than one may have hoped, but quickly erased from memory by a Salty Licorice Skull titled “This is the End.”
At this point requesting the bill, though it was clearly foolish to assume that the “end” really meant Chef Rasmus and his team were all out of tricks, it was as the kitchen was starting to wipe down that six more bites were presented, the Pumpkin Tree and Cake each fairly forgettable compared to the rest while a “Green Egg” and Caramel in an edible sheet of Plum both continued the theme of bright herbs and complex textures until the very *end.*
Housemade Raw Jersey Milk Yogurt with House Granola and Raw Honey
Chocolate Chip Cookie
More than a little impressed by Bæst, Christian Puglisi’s nearby ode to Charcuterie, Cheese and Pizza, it was thanks to Leckerbaer being on Summer break that Wednesday Breakfast plans once again saw the Bike pointed towards Nørrebro, a stop at Mirabelle not quite as pleasant as the experience at any of the Chef’s other restaurants thanks to severely disinterested service but the food every bit as good as expected.
Offering three-meals daily, early hours allowing the kitchen to focus on Sourdough production for Bæst, relæ and Manfred’s while also using that same Starter to fashion a handful of Pastries and Loaves, it was just past 09h00 that a seat was taken alongside two visitors from Sweden at the back of the restaurant, the male half of the wait-staff quickly stopping by with a menu while his female counterpart sauntered around the room stonefaced, neither of them appearing to be particularly motivated by a 25% filled dining room and just a trickle of take-away window activity.
Taking Puglisi’s expected approach to doing things the ‘right’ way, both the menu and in-store signage reading like his “Book of Ideas” as it described concepts of cool fermentation in the production of Rye Bread and slowly raised Heritage Øland Wheat Flour used to create a collection of Croissants, it was after a lengthy wait as the two clerks chatted that the two most recently seated tables were greeted simultaneously, a few questions related to the “Pastry of the Day” and Oatmeal answered with the eventual order 173DKK for Two Pastries, a bowl of Yogurt, Coffee and a Cookie.
Serving items as they are readied, most pre-made or simple in assemblage including a few sous-vide Egg plates, it was with a cup of nicely balanced brew from Coffee Collective in hand that two Croissants were carefully examined, the all-Butter version golden crisp on the exterior with an inside showing evidence of Sourdough bubbles disrupting typical lamination patterns while the one topped in Almond Paste and Confectioner’s Sugar was good but not ‘great’ thanks to a bit too much filling which rendered the bottom a touch soft in texture.
Rarely one to order a ‘Parfait’ at Breakfast, but so impressed by Bæst’s Stracciatella that it seemed pertinent to taste Puglisi’s stab at fresh Yogurt, it would be a fool’s folly for anyone to pass on the sizable 55DKK Bowl served with Housemade Granola full of dried Berries and a jar of Raw Honey, the nearly stick-a-spoon-up-straight texture sour with a pronounced grassiness well met by toasted Grains, Seeds and Brown Sugar while the Chocolate Chip Cookie to follow was not quite as impressive as that at 108, but still quite good with melted discs of Dark Chocolate used in place of the traditional Chips giving it a smooth and balanced texture.
Now offered stateside at New York’s Great Northern Food Hall, though the concepts appear to be quite different based on a single visit to each, Meyers Bageri at Gammel Kongevej 103 in Frederiksberg kicked off Wednesday in Copenhagen with five Pastries enjoyed at an outdoor table, the small shop one of no less than five in the Metropolitan Area along with the Madhus and Delis from the same team.
Originally opened in 2010 by Claus Meyer, a founding father of The New Nordic Kitchen Manifesto along with noma’s René Redzepi, Meyer’s Bageri brings the artisan concepts of the movement to the masses by way of Breads and Pastries produced exclusively from Organic Produce and Grains grown in Denmark and surrounding Countries, each bakery open at 07h00 daily to tempt diners with items made of everything from seasonal Fruits to stone-ground Rye and toasted Poppy Seeds.
Baking all items on site at each storefront, no central facility or commissary kitchen sending pre-made goods in each morning, it was with one baker visibly rolling out dough that three guests entered the small space mere moments after opening and allowing the others to go first as choices were debated it was not long before counter was reached, a pleasant young woman bagging the lot only to have it quickly unloaded just a few meters away for tasting, first bites of a Croissant showing it to be a bit more ‘doughy’ than most, though the edge baked up golden-crisp with the rich flavor of butter evenly distributed throughout the interior.
Additionally offering freshly ground Flour and free Sourdough Starters to those who bring their own Jar, an impressive practice considering how closely guarded most American Bakeries keep their secrets until it can be exploited by way of a Cookbook, it was after the Croissant that yet another look was taken at a Poppyseed topped Tebirke, the top layer shattering to the tooth and flaking to the ground with plenty of nuttiness that plays well off the light sweetness of a layer of Remonce.
Moving on to sweeter selections, the same great base as those above used to fashion a tangy Rhubarb “Croissant” and a Custard Spandauer topped in cracked Hazelnuts, both of them still warm and thus only partially set with great egginess amidst the flaky layers, it was finally Meyer’s Cinnamon Roll that shined even brighter than the rest, a heavily kneaded coil even more elastic than the version served in New York showing off with bright spicy notes and a perfect chew to the ‘skin’ not unlike that of a good Bagel.
4-year Comte, Olive Oil, Strawberry Jam, Black Pepper, Seed Crackers
Lime, Banana, Dark Rhum, Yoghurt
Crepe Suzette, Grand Marnier, Orange, Apricot, Caramel
Passion Fruit, Puffed Sugar
Vanilla, Macadamia
Coffee, Balsamico
Not entirely sold on one of the spaces selected for Dinner, reviews running the gamut from gushing to downright disappointing, it was on the word of a local that the decision was made to switch to CLOU on Tuesday evening, the Restaurant at Borgergade 16 offering a fifteen course Chef’s Tasting for 1200DKK that stretched on and on for almost 210-minutes with some of the food actually quite good, but most of the plates merely fair to middling.
Originally opened in 2012 as a combination Importer/Wine Shop and Restaurant by two brothers, the first two now separated since 2014 even though the space originally received a Michelin Star in 2013, CLOU is now run by Chef Jonathan K. Berntsen and a kitchen that seems to approach New Nordic ideas by way of Italy, the space divided into two rooms decorated in bold wallpaper offsetting the typical woods and whites of Fine Dining with a staff that tries a little *too* hard to be formal.
Still a fairly wine-focused establishment, a fact that will not be lost on those who do not imbibe as the service offered around wine is far more fawning than that for food which is merely presented with a quick smile and hasty retreat to more interesting guests speaking at volumes fortified by alcohol, it was after discussing allergies and intolerances that the meal started off with a trio of Canapes including a laser-cut Egg filled with Duck Liver Mousse and pureed Date alongside an Olive Financier buried in Parmesan plus an Oyster topped in Olive Oil and Caviar, all of it just fine but not particularly memorable save for the fact that the ideas would be replicated at the end of the meal.
Opting for a bottle of William Pear Nectar and Still Water to accompany the Food, both a bit more expensive than average amongst the Michelin Stars of Copenhagen, it was with a large round of warm Bread that menu course four was announced, The Sous’ Mother’s Flatbread somewhat reminiscent of Focaccia with a thicker Crust imbued with Olives and Herbs alongside Calvi Olive Oil and Crema di Lardo.
At this point introduced to the first of several service delays, the fact that the restaurant was less than 1/4 full making both the expediting and generally unengaging service particularly off-putting for solo diners left to stare at the walls or their smartphones, it was almost twenty minutes before a dish of Brown Crab hidden beneath Mint, Cucumber and Sea Beans was presented, the flavor of the Crustacean mostly lost in the mix and therefore largely wasted while the follow-up of Blue Mussel Flan in Thyme Broth with more Caviar packed a briny punch beneath a frankly unnecessary “net” of Seaweed.
At this point already nearing the menu’s midpoint, the fifteen ‘courses’ in reality more like seven including Cheese plus Canapes, Mignardises and Pre-Dessert, a single Raviolo proved to be the night’s first great dish as it placed roasted Violet Artichoke in the setting of cracked Corn, Citrus and grated Cheese, the flavors all finding balance with an up-front sweetness dissipating into an earthy linger that led into a generous filet of Turbot ‘crusted’ with Coffee and Cocoa in a bath of foamy Lobster Bisque.
Again hitting a service snag before the main entrée, a full thirty minutes of listening to the room’s primary server chat with an inebriated English couple across the room spent fighting off sleep, it was as the clock neared 22h00 that a dish of Foie and Foremeat stuffed Quali was presented alongside a sauce of Dried Fruit and Fresh Peas, a dish similar to that of Le Cirque back home with far less finesse followed by 48-month Comte that would have been just fine on its own, but was instead compromised with Strawberry Jam plus Black Pepper and a liberal pour of Olive Oil.
Cleansing the palate with a refreshing Banana Sorbet atop powdered Lime and Yogurt perfumed by Rum before waiting a full forty minutes for Dessert, the drunk couple now gone and the clock approaching 23h00, it was as the boozy “Crepe Suzette” was presented that the Check was also requested, the Dessert no more than two bites and nowhere near as interesting as that served at Alchemist the following day with the meal coming to a close in a trio that looked much like the amuses, an idea that is no longer clever as it has been done so many times elsewhere and all the less impressive as the kitchen ignored a request for no Passion Fruit, though the Coffee and Balsamic Egg was better than either of the menu’s actual desserts.
Returning from Louisiana Museum in Humlebæk, a one hour bus ride from Copenhagen that is worth every penny and minute, it was with nearly three hours until dinner that the coach pulled into Nørreport, another perfect opportunity to stop into nearby Torvehallen for a snack, this time paying a visit to Sweet Valentine where the staff was beginning to clean up for the evening but more than happy to make a sale from their remaining products.
One of the few places in the market that closes on Mondays, but open from beginning until end of Torvehallen’s business hours Tuesday through Sunday, Sweet Valentine features the work of Marianne Valentine who has been called one of Denmark’s best producers of Wedding Cakes, and whether one is shopping for a custom job from the offsite bakery or something quick to brighten their day the collection of products is one worth investigating closely as the fairly basic display does little to convey their quality.
Offering a wide range of items, everything from Cookies and modern Cakes to Danish classics, Pies and Scones available depending on the day, it was just past 17h00 that guests were greeted by a young man and woman tucked behind glass cases and although the selection had been somewhat depleted over the previous seven hours the remainder was still quite inviting, a tasting of five items starting off with a rosy Meringue wrapped around Raspberry Jam, the exterior giving way with a crisp break to an interior that was soft, sweet and sticky.
Seated at a small table towards the market’s center aisle, enough room for two at most, it was with the rest of the items unbagged that the tasting continued by way of a Chocolate Chip and Hazelnut Cookie that was unfortunately far too dry to be enjoyed without a beverage, the Danish Potato Cake, based on shape and not name, called Kartoffelkager a far more memorable investment as the 35DKK Cake topped in Cocoa Powder was moist yet light with a layer of Yellow Cake topped in Vanilla Pastry Cream and Marzipan.
Best known from her time on a Danish version of Cake Wars where she worked as a judge, it seemed completely irrational to visit Sweet Valentine without tasting some of Chef Marianne’s market slices, none of the typical ‘wedding’ options available at this time but not really an issue in the face of a dense and mellow Apple-Almond Square or the sort of Carrot Cake that those who prefer spice to sweet are likely to fall in love with as the thin layer of Frosting is little more than a linger atop lofty notes of Cinnamon, Clove, Ginger and Anise.
Queen Victoria Cheese, Strawberry Marmalade, Vanilla, Roasted Almonds
Told that a visit to Copenhagen without eating Smørrebrød would be sacrilege, the open-face Sandwich on Rye a staple of Danish culture and seemingly sold at no less than three stores on every block in the city, the question became exactly *where* to taste this national delicacy, the name Aamann’s Etablissement frequently brought up based on ingredient quality.
Originally opened in 2006 as a Take Away Counter, owner Adam Aamann gaining notoriety over the ensuing years thanks to a focus on making many of the restaurant’s ingredients including Creams and Marmalades as well as Schnapps and Vinegars in house, it was after lunch elsewhere that a visit was paid to Aamann’s before taking the bus to Louisiana Museum of Art in Humlebæk, a twenty minute wait at the Etablissement circumvented by walking next door to Aamann’s Deli & Take Away where a slightly smaller menu is offered to go, though there too seating was completely filled with diners speaking exclusively Danish.
Clearly as popular as rumor would suggest, Smørrebrød offered between 50-60DKK with an extra five added for dining in, it was after a few minutes perusing the menu that a young server approached from where he was busy making sandwiches with another staff member, the request for three ‘pieces’ at a cost of 180DKK quoted as ‘just a few minutes’ with a branded box and bag quickly packed up and taken to a small table on the outside pavement.
Offering just cold Sandwiches to-go, pan fried Fish and warm Pate sold as dine-in only options along with a demi-size 4-piece combo chosen by the kitchen for 155DKK, it was with intentions to try Seafood, Beef and something sweet that the sampling started off with hardboiled Eggs and Smoked Salmon topped in Fennel plus Tarragon Cream, the Fish unfortunately thicker and more ‘firm’ than expected with anise notes of both Fennel and Tarragon overwhelming everything but the Bread beneath them.
Varying the menu seasonally, though certain signatures only change a bit, the next Smørrebrød tasted featured thinly sliced Grass-Fed Beef topped in dots of Bearnaise Cream, Baked Tomatoes, Pickles and Potato strings, the Meat itself slightly sinewy but well-complimented by everything around it while the Queen Victoria with Strawberry Marmalade, a hint of Vanilla and crushed Almonds was fine, the makings of a Cheese Plate on Rye, but no greater than the sum of its individual ingredients.
The first Michelin starred Restaurant in Copenhagen, no small feat in a city that at one time contained San Pellegrino’s “World’s Best Restaurant” Era Ora is more than a place to eat, it is an act of resistance and commitment in an era where nearly everything else of note has allowed “New Nordic” to change the way it’s Chefs cook and think.
Opened in 1983 and currently toqued by Antonio Di Criscio, the family owned and operated space in Christianshavn found along one of the area’s canals on the opposite side of Torvegade from kadeau, Era Ora defines its style of cooking as “Italian Inner Fusion,” nearly 90% of the ingredients including basics like Flour brought in from Italy to focus on influences dating back to the Romans and Greeks with a focus on creating new ideas with ancient roots, the idea operating without regard for Copenhagen’s Cold and Dark Winters or all-out embrace of ideas such as pickling and foraging.
Open Lunch and Dinner Monday through Saturday save for five Holidays, the current manager a youthful American Born Dane from California, it was on Tuesday afternoon that a total of only three guests dining at separate tables made their way into the restaurant decorated in Peach, Green, Floral Images and luxe Textiles, things admittedly ‘slow’ on weekday afternoons despite a relative bargain 598DKK 4-course Chef’s Tasting that becomes around nine plates plus Bread when accounting for Canapes and Amuses.
Describing ‘inner fusion’ as the idea that although distinctly “Italian” the food at Era Ora attempts to put ingredients from several regions on one plate, no specific style embraced across dishes of Antipasta, Pasta, Fish, Meat, Cheese or Dessert or a Wine list nearly 600 Bottles deep and almost exclusively from Italy, every meal at Era Ora begins by way of an Anti-pasti platter incorporating several big flavors, on this day a trio of Marinated Zucchini with Bell Pepper, a Tapioca Crisp perfumed in Licorice plus Mint and a pickled Turnip smeared in Garlic all vibrant and fresh with a piece of robustly crusted Sourdough served without Butter or Oil quick to follow.
Explaining that Bread is intended only for scarpetta at Era Ora, the open crumb certainly well suited to the task of mopping up elegant Sauces across the plates to follow, it was next atop four stones that Chef Di Criscio welcomed diners, the trio of Crisps each showing off a different type of Grain from Italy and topped with everything from Raw Langoustine to housemade Ricotta and Wild Boar Bresaola shot and cured by the staff, the final bite a small pot of Sheep’s Milk Cheese topped in Hazelnuts atop mashed Fava Beans.
Italian for ‘about time,’ a concept embraced by both Era Ora’s cuisine and art displaying the sun and moon in the foyer, it was perhaps forty minutes after seating that the first proper course of the menu was presented, the Manager playing the role of server and describing a flavor profile that started sweet and ended with a bit of spice, the fact that Opuntia grows in Italy previously unknown but the gel of its Fruit doing a beautiful job of highlighting the Halibut while also mellowing the Peppers imported from Tuscany.
Well portioned for a tasting menu, each course enough to give diners an opportunity to explore ingredients on their own and then in combination, course two was a fortunate find for those who live in parts of the world where Salt Cod is not considered a delicacy, the three Black Raviolis stuffed just short of bursting with creamy filling and a lot of brine that found itself well met by confit Tomatoes, a light Cream Sauce ringed in Parsley Oil and pan-seared Chickpeas.
Sopping up every last drop of Sauce from the Pasta and accenting to a continuation of lunch, the kitchen clearly working well beneath capacity and thus happy to fire plates at a pace dictated by diners, the day’s entrée was served with a story about how importing Veal allows the restaurant to skirt Denmark’s Laws forbidding the butchering of young Animals, a thick sirloin lightly fried and fork-tender on a backdrop of Egg Yolks and Vinegar plus sautéed Leeks and Haricot Verts.
Taking a pass on Cheese, the 100DKK Supplement not a favorite as offered topped in Chipotle and Parsley, it was with a dish featuring Peaches imported the day prior that the meal ended, a disc of tangy Semifreddo anchoring ingredients including Ice Cream, Nasturtium Flowers, Chocolate Mousse and Mint, the individual flavors pleasant and an ability to mix and match interesting but none of it really congruent in the way that the dishes before it had been and thus an unfortunate way to end what was otherwise a noteworthy meal in a Restaurant that stands out in a dining scene that sometimes seems flawed by conformity.
Incredulous that 108 could have been so bad for Dinner, everything from the disinterested service, high prices and poorly prepared dishes bordering on offensive when considering the names attached, it was with a high degree skepticism that plans were kept to visit “The Corner” on Tuesday morning, Renee Redzepi’s 08h00 to 24h00 space for Coffee, Pastries, Wine and Share Plates proving far more pleasant in terms of the items offered though prices were again fairly steep.
Living up to its name in that it truly is ‘the corner’ of 108 Strandgade, the Bar and seating area separated from the scene of last night’s culinary crimes by a padlocked gate next to the restroom tucked under a stone archway, it was just minutes after opening that several guests filed in to find a trio of Pastries plus Loaves of Bread laid out beneath a list of Filtered Coffee and Espresso drinks, items ranging between 30-40DKK with piping hot Cookies loaded with gooey Chocolate Chips soon to emerge from the kitchen at 20DKK each.
Choosing to take a seat and stay a while, the Wi-Fi signal here stronger than at the hotel, it was no more than a few moments after ordering that Coffee was brought to the table where it joined a sliced Whole Grain Roll paired to 108’s Cultured Cream and Semi-Hard Danish Cheese, the flavor every bit on par with that of the Sourdough from next door that is also sold at the Corner from 11h30 until close daily.
Already heartened that this would be a more memorable experience than the Michelin Starred spot, a simple look at the quality of the goods leading one to anticipate their quality, it was on the recommendation of a young Asian man that a braid entitled “Cured Beef Fat Bread” was tasted next, the idea to use Tallow in place of Butter during the lamination process achieving a similar degree of crispiness with a sapor not unlike Bone Marrow while the Blueberry Currant Brioche ate a lot like Bread Pudding, the custard soaked cubes soft on the inside and crisp around the edges beneath a sticky and sour Glaze.
Located in central Copenhagen, reported weekend hours listed online proving untrue on Saturday and thus leading to a second trip in ten hours to Lagkagehuset, it was finally on America’s birthday that a visit was paid to Sankt Peders Bageri, the independently owned space with a shabby chic interior proving equal to any of the city’s more prominent names in terms of the Baked Goods with service that is more personable and clearly rewarded by significant support from locals.
Originally opened in 1632 and having undergone a few facelifts and changes in ownership during 385 intervening years, the current group now in charge for the last seventy, guests visiting Sankt Peders Stræde 29 on weekdays between 06h00 and 17h30 will immediately be struck by just how homey the space feels with its combination of picture frames and low-slung couches, everything about the place saying “sit down and stay awhile,” though many Danes on their way to work seem to prefer the take-away option.
Managed by two women, one merely a teenager with a middle-aged male baker bringing fresh items from the back throughout the course of a thirty minute stay, it was just past 07h00 that the counter was approached with a request for six items, a ‘some now and some later’ approach quickly turning into bites of everything as all but one was still warm, first tastes of the Seeded Rye sour and spicy in all the right ways with a good chew while the Grov Birkes was flaky and light around a light smear of Remonce Filling.
Next deciding to try one of the Pop-Tart reminiscent squares seen at almost every Bakery in Copenhagen, the Hindbaer Snitter’s exterior sort of like a frosted Shortbread Cookie wrapped around Raspberry Jam, it was setting aside most of this overly sweet item that the two types of Cinnamon Roll were investigated, the one soft and much like the versions seen elsewhere with a whole lot of Butter but not much sweetness save for the Frosting while the other was almost like a sugary Biscuit swirled around Cinnamon Streusel, the Danish saved for last one of the most memorable in the city thanks to the light Pastry and not-yet-set Custard.
Told by a server one day later that it is by law that most of the shopping in Copenhagen closes at 18h00 while restaurants outside of Fast Food establishments are required to stop service by midnight it was just past 20h50 that a visit was paid to Mr. Churros at Nørrebrogade 41, the location passed by several times on bike without notice thanks to ongoing construction luring diners in with a promise of “Lavish Delights made with love.”
Originally opened in January of 2017, the doors unlocked at 12h00 daily and closing at 21h00 Sunday through Wednesday with an extra hour added on weekends, Mr. Churros can best be described as a bare bones operation focused on sweet Street Food favorites from Spain, Belgium and France with straight from the jar toppings including liquid Chocolate, Caramel, Sprinkles and Soft-Serve from a Mix.
Featuring a big mural on one wall, counter against the other and a kitchen at the back, just one server who did not seem amused by the late arrival of three parties only ten minutes before she was to depart, leaving a messy counter and used Oil behind in the fryer behind, it was nonetheless with a flat face that she accepted 30DKK for any of the menu’s three items, the Crepe stone thankfully not required as it had already been powered down but the five people still requesting two Waffles and four orders of Cinnamon Donuts before she could leave.
Playing American pop tunes a little too loud, the feel of the space fairly happy despite the young woman’s sour demeanor, it was after being asked not to take a seat because “I’m closed” that guests stood waiting for her to clip measured pieces of Dough into the fryer while taking to the back where Waffles are made on an Iron not dissimilar to what one may have at home, each item offered with a choice of two toppings though the store was already sold out of Vanilla Ice Cream.
Presumably already putting in a full 9-hours of frying with the Oil, possibly more as the young lady walked out on the heels of her last guest, it was after a few photos were snapped that hurried work was tasted, the unevenly cooked Churros served in a sizable portion well coated in Cinnamon Sugar proving competent if not memorable even with thin Caramel Sauce dripping down their sides while the Waffle was fluffy but flaccid, the lack of a crispy edge noteworthy compared to those found in the shops of Brussels, though Chocolate liberally squeezed from a bottle was not.
