Last visited in 2010, but dozens of times prior, Uncle John’s Pancake House is the only remaining independently-owned Restaurant on the Secor strip from the 70s, their popularity firmly cemented and still generating a crowd daily.
Outliving “Cinema 1,2, and 3” and Allied Records, frequent stops before or after, 2022 finds little changed at Uncle John’s save the sign, check-in at the hostess’ podium forever pleasant and tchotchkes plus old photos making the experience more homey.
Anything but fancy, paper menus and heavy plates anchoring Diner favorites, service is no less gracious than a Michelin starred Restaurant while springy a German Crepe for $4.99 and Pancakes with all the fixins for $3.99 are underpriced yet flawless.
Fried Perch Dinner, Hand Cut French Fries, Lemon, Tartar Sauce
Fried Walleye Dinner, Hand Cut French Fries, Lemon, Tartar Sauce
Baked Potato, Butter, Sour Cream
Mac n Cheese
Part of Ohio’s “FunCoast” for over 30 years DeMore’s continues to lure locals and tourists alike, the remodeled and relocated Restaurant still owned by the same family now found on West Perkins Avenue but still serving fresh-caught Perch as part of a menu that has evolved with the times.
As authentic a Great Lakes Restaurant as one will find, “Fried with two Sides” prominently featured alongside grilled items, Quesadillas and more, owner Tracey DeMore has relocated her audience post-Pandemic thanks to fair prices for big portions and friendly service from open till close.
Somewhat hidden from Cedar Point traffic, though no more than fifteen minute’s drive, it is amidst wood paneling plus televisions showing sports that guests make decisions, Cocktails under $10 plus Draft Beer matched well to Appetizers including Cornmeal Hushpuppies or Frog Legs cut up past the Thigh.
Smart to stick with local Ingredients, though Salmon and the like are available, Clam Chowder is creamy with a good amount of Meat while sides including hand-cut Fries or Baked Potatoes are better than average.
Open from 11am daily, a list of daily specials added to signatures, the lone miss was Mac n’ Cheese served runnier than the Soup, though that was pretty easy to forget after one bite of battered and fried Perch or Walleye that arrives hot, golden and flaky with nary a hint of Oil.
Buffalo Chicken Mac & Cheese – Grilled Chicken, Buffalo Sauce, Blue Cheese, Scallion, Ranch Dressing
Monte Cristo – Honey Ham, Smoked Turkey, Swiss Cheese, American Cheese, Battered & Deep Fried, Powdered Sugar, Berry Preserves
Wet Hot Buffalo Chicken – Battered Chicken, Buffalo Sauce, Blue Cheese Slaw, Blue Cheese, Ranch Dip
Maybe Cleveland’s most famous dining concept outside those owned by Michael Symon Melt Bar + Grilled opened in September 2006 with one goal: “To provide gourmet Grilled Cheese Sandwiches and as many Beers as possible in a cool and comfortable environment,” something owner Matt Fish has now achieved from Columbus and Akron.
Last visited in 2016, the Independence location a short drive from Cedar Point, it was one year later that Melt opened inside the park near Planet Snoopy on the Midway, a floor plan at least quadrupling the Lakewood original allowing guests room to enjoy another Browns loss while enjoying a truncated menu.
Now sporting eleven Restaurants it was just past 2:30pm that a party of three was offered seating amidst televisions and luminescent plastic lawn ornaments, the youthful server offering a few recommendations though monthly specials including coveted Chicken Paprikash was unavailable at this location.
Also omitting Lake Erie Monster, Elvis and Bread Pudding, but willing to make a watery Pina Colada, service is expedited and finds items well-prepared, Chicken Tenders fried golden alongside crispy hand-cut Fries whether served solo or smothered in Buffalo Sauce and Slaw atop Bread.
Known for big portions, the Buffalo Chicken Mac & Cheese more than shareable at a price that seems quite reasonable compared to Amusement Park Food elsewhere, consider it fortunate that Melt Cedar Point opted to keep the Monte Cristo because even though its heft may not be ideal for roller coasters one will be hard-pressed to name a better deep-fried Sandwich anywhere else.
A campus staple since 1969 Buckeye Donuts at 1998 North High Street undoubtedly has more stories than most, its 24/7 operation since 2012 with added Breakfast and Gyros probably not what founders George Sauter, George Barouxis and Jim Barouxis had envisioned but at the same time not distracting from fried Dough that’s almost always fresh.
Now with a second location on South High, larger but less creative under different ownership, guests entering the original will find a large assortment of choices ranging Raised to Cake, seasonal Pumpkin Spice a hot seller this Sunday with great texture and Glaze slightly penetrating the top.
Formerly a Jolly Roger Donut Shop, but famous enough to sell Merch including a shirt made by Homage, Buckeye excels at Cake including Blueberry, Old Fashioned Buttermilk and Crumb, an elongated Bar titled “Stix” reminiscent of Little Debbie’s icon while the Peanut Butter-filled Chocolate-frosted Buckeye and greasy, glazed Fritter are exactly what one wants at midnight, two, eight o’clock or noon.
Part of Columbus’ Italian Village since 2014 Fox in the Snow Cafe has quickly established itself as a destination for Breakfast, two additional locations attesting to the popularity of Jeff Excell’s concept self-described as “serving up rustic-style Baked Goods and hand-poured Drinks.”
Still a neighborhood of run-down houses, though the Cafe’s vines are more like Harvard than The Ohio State University, guests inside are an expected mix of Hipsters and middle-aged Midwesterners while Fox in the Snow’s staff trends young yet professional.
All cement and sunshine, “industrial chic” in a way, Pastries are carefully stacked without description save for a board hanging adjacent – Coffee or Tea to the left and Pastries plus Sandwiches on the right.
“High priced” for Ohio, though a bargain considering the quality to those with experience on either coast, fans of Sticky Buns will find Fox in the Snow’s wound just right beneath Pecans and Caramel while Chocolate Chip Cookies and Brownies add flakes of Salt to the mix for bright pops of taste amidst luxurious textures.
Veering savory with a Sesame Seed studded Morning Bun with Ham and Swiss, this Viennoiserie and a “Chocolate Swirl” showing better than most stateside, Fox in the Snow’s Blueberry Scone eats softer than those in London and comes across a bit too Muffin-like while both the Carrot Cake and laminated Biscuit with Jam and loads of Butter are among the best found across extensive travels throughout America and Europe.
Serving The Ohio State University since 1986 Adriatico’s can safely be called an institution, and although the location has moved from 11th Avenue since Freshman Year the spot at 1618 Neil Avenue continues to make a great Pie at fair prices that generate big lines.
Officially Adriatico’s New York Style Pizza, owner Greg Fortney in charge since purchasing the business from its Cincinnati inventor in 1985, returning guests will find substantially more seating plus Wings, Draft Beer and Appetizers plus a number of TVs showing sports daily.
Easily ordered by phone, thirty minute’s wait just prior to a game at Ohio Stadium perfect for those walking in from free parking, pick-up was simple with Sauce still blistering and each mouthful of thick-crust, Cheese and oversized Pepp a reminder of when Adriatico’s was the best Pizza this writer had ever tasted.
Not recalling Buckeye Bites from two decades prior, essentially fried Pretzels using Malt to make them look like OSU’s iconic mascot, Desserts come in the form of Cookies or Brownies with the former soft and chewy around sizable Chocolate Chunks.
From humble beginnings in the North Market to calculated nationwide expansion Jeni’s will always hold a special place in the heart of this Buckeye, every visit since senior year of college offering something new and delicious and on this sunny Saturday highlighted by all the flavors of a Butterscotch Popcorn juxtaposing Wedding Cake.
The A-1 Burger – 12oz Beef Patty cooked in A-1 Steak Sauce, Swiss Cheese, Lettuce, Tomato, Onion, Fried Onion Straws
Thurman Burger – 12oz Beef Patty, Ham, Sautéed Onions, Mushrooms, Mozzarella Cheese, American Cheese, Lettuce, Tomato, Pickles, Banana Peppers, Mayo served with Kettle Chips
Opened in 1942 by Nick Suclescy, and family-owned ever since, Thurman Cafe is considered to have one of the best Hamburgers in the country and continues to generate long lines in Columbus’ German Village even today.
Forever a capitol favorite, popularity bolstered by Travel Channel’s Man v. Food and the Thurmanator, guests begin to arrive by 10:30am anticipating an 11:00am opening with all tables filled by noon, no matter how cramped or uncomfortable.
Rarely updating the menu, a tried and true approach that hasn’t failed yet, it is with sports on TV and music playing loud that servers work as teammates slinging Beer followed by Appetizers including Loaded Fries and Onion Rings plus Jalapeno Poppers sure to set mouths ablaze.
Not about to skip Pizza Rolls, Mozz and Pepperoni ready to burn the roof of any careless mouth, Pretzel Bites come deep fried and delicious as a prelude to 12-ounce all-Beef Patties topped as preferred, but undeniably best as the signature complete with Sautéed Onions, Mushrooms, Mozzarella Cheese, American Cheese, Lettuce, Tomato, Mayonnaise, Pickles and Banana Peppers stacked so high it won’t fit anyone’s mouth.
Housemade Chorizo Tacos – Koki’s Blue Corn Tortillas, North Market Spices-infused Chorizo, Fresh Corn, Roasted Purple Potatoes, Red Onions, Tomatillo, Cilantro, Snowville Creamery Crema, Elote Mexican Cob Corn
Breakfast Chick ’Wich – Southern Fried Buttermilk-brined Shagbark Corn-Chip coated Chicken Breast, Sunnyside up Egg, Local Amish Cheddar Cheese, Frank’s Red Hot Sauce
Huge! Mazatlan Slow-Roasted Pork & Egg Sandwich – Slow-roasted Beeler’s Pork, Katalina’s Secret Sauce, Fried Eggs, Local Amish Provolone Cheese, Avocado, Roasted Red Peppers Citrus Aioli, toasted Old World Loaf
Original Pancake Balls – Fowler’s Mill Flour, Katalina’s Pumpkin-Apple Butter, Pure Local Maple Syrup, Katalina’s thick-cut Original Sweet ‘N’ Spicy Bacon
Located in a 100 year old gas station Katalina’s is known for peace, love and pancake balls…plus some excellent Latin inspired breakfast dishes made with quality local ingredients and none of the pretense involving spots that usually advertise such.
“The Little Cafe with Lots of Local Goodness™” per owner Kathleen Day, open 8am till 3pm daily, guests can expect lines on weekends for “homemade food with attitude” and portions that more than justify a fairly modest price point.
Trendy but not exactly “hipster,” college kids mingling with young families and folks in their sixties, seating outside proves ideal during good weather with items ordered at the counter arriving in an average of perhaps ten minutes.
Using locally-roasted Coffee, free refills hot or grabbed cold from a fridge, Brunch for many begins with Tacos topping Koki’s Blue Corn Tortillas with Housemade Chorizo and Snowville Creamery Crema while the Breakfast Chick ’Wich comes heated by Frank’s and open-faced with Cheddar plus fried Eggs.
Not about to skip a “Huge! Mazatlan Slow-Roasted Pork & Egg Sandwich,” true to its name and bursting with flavor, Katalina’s famous “PurpleCraze Hash” seems fairly basic for something advertised so heavily, though the same cannot be said of Pancake Balls made like Æbleskivers piped with seasonal Pumpkin-Apple Butter and sides of real Maple Syrup plus Sweet ‘N’ Spicy Bacon.
Buttermilk Pie – Cantaloupe, Graham Cracker, Steel cut Oats, Cream Cheese
Featuring the cooking of Chef Jon Gruseck The Crest promises Modern Appalachian Fare utilizing local products available per the season or preserved by fermentation inside elegant confines just a few minutes from The Ohio State University campus.
At one time a Dive Bar, later The Crest Gastropub and now a proper Restaurant under A&R Creative Restaurant Group, The Crest seeks to create traditional dishes using heritage breeds and Seeds, foraging and waste-free cooking.
Owned by Justin Wotring, though the menu relies entirely on Gruseck’s Appalachian upbringing and Eastern European roots, plates reference ideas uncommon outside the region such as Pierogis that change seasonally, September 2022’s iteration unfortunately far too astringent with an abundance of Mustard overwhelming Squash or Corn Smut.
Surrounded by large windows, the space itself wrapping natural colors around a U-shaped bar, service feels rushed and uninformed from the moment Cocktails are offered, though a “Barrel Aged Bee’s Knees” goes quite well with fried Goat Cheese served crisp and melty alongside Blackberry Jam plus Lemon Curd.
Recently updated for fall, Rabbit and Walleye giving way to Venison wrapped but over-roasted and almost uncuttable with the provided knife, Polenta beneath was barely room temperature while “Duck & Dumplings” was also poorly prepared with most of its moisture gone and the anticipated Noodles more like Falafel.
Skipping the Burger, though in retrospect that likely would have been better, Corn Dip fared well thanks to assertive Relish even though the extra $2 Bread was unnecessary while Gruseck’s Buttermilk Pie thankfully left a good taste in the mouth thanks to indulgent Custard atop a Crust that eats almost like soft Granola.
Cookies & CRMD Ice Cream, Fruity Pebbles, Puffle Egg Waffle
Occupying the old PM Gallery space in the Short North since Summer 2019 CRMD comes from Kristina Duong and Benjamin Stoyka whose west coast ideas shine proud with funky colors and an eye for the #gram throughout 1190 North High Street.
Ohio natives brought home, their idea to compete with Jeni’s and Graeter’s boldly bolstered by youthful branding and off-hand descriptions of flavors such as “I really shouldn’t have to describe this…It’s mint…chocolate…chip,” guests entering during non-peak hours are welcomed to taste everything from “Sorbs” to Vegan choices made with Coconut Cream.
Filled with old Hip-Hop and helpful staff, a lack of seating unfortunately leading guests back outside to enjoy, Scoops run $4.50, two for $6, and three for $7 with extra for Waffle or “Puffle” Cones made-to-order and served hot.
Now with a second location in Chicago, where folks could stand to learn a little about Peanut Butter Buckeye Ice Cream that tastes extra creamy despite Activated Charcoal, additional tastes included “Cereal & Milk” better than Milk Bar’s thanks to less Sugar plus Purple Cookies & Cream and the aforementioned Mint Chip that doesn’t skip on either of its eponymous Ingredients.
Still embracing underdog status despite growing from a 2009 Food Truck into eight locations stretching to Cincinnati Mikey’s Late Night Slice has cemented itself as central Ohio’s Street Food of choice, the original shack in a parking lot south of Bodega opening at 4 o’clock daily and serving slices or whole pies till two or three am.
Achieving its stated mission to “maintain a culture based around raving fans, dedicated employees and quality Food” throughout the pandemic, though staffing remains a challenge, Late Night Slice offers a fairly concise menu focused on New York Style Pizza heated to-order, $6.80 to $7.14 admittedly steep even for those with global experience.
Irreverent without apology, specials such as “Fiery Death w/ Hate Sausage” part of co-owner Jason Biundo’s repertoire, guests can expect crisp Crust that folds without breaking beneath fairly basic Cheese and Sauce plus additions including Pepperoni, Mushrooms and more that will all be benefited by a sidecar of “Unicorn Sauce.”
Chicken Hotcakes Tacos – Fried Chicken, Pancakes, Chili Aioli, Strawberry Salsa, Ohio Maple Syrup
Crab Rangoon Dip – Fried Wantons
Located in a lengthwise space at 215 East Town Street, youthful servers ready to offer suggestions or mix a Margarita beginning at 9:00am daily, The Woodbury comes from Olde Towne Partners whose Olde Towne Tavern and Corner Stone Craft Beer & Wine suggest knowledge of a market heavily influenced by local businesses and The Ohio State University campus.
Opened three-months before COVID-19 temporarily changed the course of history The Woodbury claims to “embrace a why not mindset,” the resultant menu not really all that different from other modern American Gastropubs featuring global influences and Ingredient pairings that think “outside the box.”
Wood and glass around a central bar showing sports, the soundtrack overhead a predictable mish-mash of hits, Breakfast and Dinner fuse to cast a wide net including everything from competent Biscuits offered warm with Jam or Honey to “Kung Pao” Brussels Sprouts first deep fried before layers of Soy, Sugar, Onions and Peanuts.
Not as clever as they might think, Crab Rangoon Dip easily traced to 2014 or earlier on Google and Bacon Jam copied from Carson Kitchen by everyone and their brother, Woodbury Nachos eat more like Stoner-Poutine and achieve great success as a result while Chicken Hotcakes Tacos also put fried Poultry in the spotlight balancing heat and sweet.
Torn between French Toast Casserole and Deep Fried PB&J, the closure of MELT downtown making the latter more novel, The Woodbury’s version comes thin but not greasy with texture and taste ready to be amplified by boozy Praline Bananas.
Part of Upper Arlington’s “Japanese Marketplace” since 2011 Belle’s Bread is described as a French-inspired Japanese Bakery, owner Takashi Takenaka of Akai Hana completing his collection of six eateries with a space Food & Wine has called one of America’s 100 best Bakeries and a “hidden gem.”
Definitely hidden, 1168 Kenny Centre Mall not exactly near anything of relevance and the eatery itself tucked away inside the shopping complex, guests entering will discover everything from Rolls and Buns to Crepes, Sandwiches and import Beverages sold at prices that run the gamut of affordable to excessive.
A novelty in Central Ohio, some twenty bakers assisting Takenaka’s daughter who manages Belle’s, all Breads come wrapped in plastic with “Sell By” dates, the $2.50 Bacon & Corn Roll soft and complex while a $2.95 Melon Roll underwhelms at twice the price of those offered outside Los Angeles.
Passing on Crepes, Cakes and Cream Puffs and instead investing in Madelines set to expire in six days, a far cry from made-to-order versions and flavored with “Pistachio Extract,” Belle’s Strawberry Buttercream Bread looks cute and eats less sweet than American Desserts while the Koshi An Roll puts the focus on Red Beans with a bit of Sesame and outpaces everything else by quite a bit.
Debuted in 2015 Holey Toledough can safely be called Northwest Ohio’s first artisan Doughnut shop, owner Zein Moussa’s Food Truck-turned-brick-and-mortar setting itself apart with locally sourced ingredients baked fresh daily inside a tiny shop at 3812 West Alexis Road.
Seasonally inventive from a pleasant staff, 19 choices on a Saturday ranging from $2.00 to $4.00 each, obvious choices include “Homer” with Sprinkles and smooth Frosting atop Brioche while Girl Scout’s reminiscent “Samoa” finds Cake too dry and crumbly despite a flavor profile similar to the real deal.
Making Jam, Dough and Cream on-site, the “Ding Dong” Bismarck lighter than most with good Chocolate and delicate Whip, Cinnamon Buns feature god spring whether plain or topped as a “Persian” while Maple-soaked Pecan French Toast far outpaces the flavorless Apple Fritter which tries and fails to rethink something traditionally over-glazed, greasy and delicious.
Family owned and operated for over 35 years Don’s Donuts is a staple for Toledo east-siders, its location off I-280 in Northwood providing easy access from 5am till noon Thursday through Sunday.
Remembered fondly from childhood, owner Mohamed Orra and family understaffed post-pandemc but still crafting several styles of Fried Dough, a dozen currently costs just $14.99 for the sort of quality that typically commands at least double on either coast.
Cutting teeth on Don’s Yeast rings with Sprinkles, still light and thickly frosted, Fritters at no extra charge are Apple-filled and crispy without being oily while Cake Donuts find Cherry outpacing seasonal Pumpkin or more-familiar Blueberry.
Ordering a Persian for Mom, Maple Frosting also overlying a Cream-stuffed Long John, Bismarcks come heavily powdered with sugary Gel at the center while the Buttermilk Bar compares favorably to any nationwide.
Grandma’s Gooey Butter Cake – White Raspberry, Red Raspberry, Whipped Creme Fraiche
Still Sin City’s toughest reservation Delilah debuted at Wynn in July of 2021, the “social dining” experience from L.A.’s h.wood Group making good use of Michelin 2* Alex’s former footprint with aspirations to redefine a modern day Supper Club.
Long awaited and debuted with an opulent Grand Opening of A-List celebrities, guests are immediately met by a small foyer before entering the thirty-seat Little Bubble Bar whose rich fabrics overlook the main Dining Room two floors below.
Accessed by double staircases, with bronze and marble gilding the space envisioned by Wynn’s Todd-Avery Lenahan, tables reside between a main stage and larger bar with posh materials and wood surrounded by plaster ceilings above numerous original paintings.
Fusing interior to outside via paired courtyards, one abutting the Chef’s Table and secret dining room directly accessed via the kitchen, it was near the main stage that three diners sat Tuesday to enjoy fourteen plates from Chef Josh Smith and Pastry Chef Benjamin Maigné.
Over-the-top in a good way, from contrasting patterns and custom porcelain to gracious servers with encyclopedic knowledge of the Chef Smith’s Cuisine, it is once Beverages are ordered that tables receive complimentary Milk Bread, each slice piping hot with a delicate crumb ready to be slathered by some of the best Butter in America.
Sparing no expense in terms of Ingredients or décor, a Caviar Donut enjoyed amidst murals and mirrors, Appetizers from Chef Smith continued with a Pastrami-topped Wedge and “Crab Rangoon” that resembles Dungeness in its presentation except that the “Shell” is actually a Cracker meant to be smashed and used as a delivery mechanism.
High energy in the main room, easy for conversing until live music starts, additional small bites include irresistible Wagyu Hot Dogs in Viennoiserie with Truffles and savory French Toast supporting Foie Gras plus seasonal Confiture currently made from Currants.
Onward to Entrees, but not before “Delilah’s Famous Chicken Tenders” again justified their signature status in terms of both taste and texture, Delilah’s Beef Wellington sees Chef Smith once again outpacing Gordon Ramsay alongside creamy Mashed Potatoes while Dover Sole in a Potato Crust rethinks Fish n’ Chips.
Not forgetting Chicken Francese with all the fixins’, nor Bardot’s vertical Macaroni bettered by Black Truffle Bechamel and fresh shavings from Alba, Cavatelli Alla Vodka sees handmade Pasta heated by Calabrian Chilis but cooled Mascarpone while Chasen’s Original Carrot Souffle serves as a peerless segue to Dessert.
Growing livelier by the minute, but never too loud, it was around 8:15pm that the Captain poured flaming Cognac overtop “Beehive” Baked Alaska, but no matter how good this or “Kendall’s Slutty Brownie” are it will still take more to outpace Josh’s Grandmother’s world-class Gooey Butter Cake as Las Vegas’ best Dessert.
FIVE STARS: As much an “experience” as dinner, Delilah sets a high bar for “dinner and a show” thanks to not only unparalleled opulence and top-quality service, but a skilled kitchen led by Chefs Josh Smith and Benjamin Maigné.
Milk Bar Pie, Cereal Milk Soft Serve, Candied Cornflakes
Cereal Milk White Russian
Double Espresso on Ice
Blueberries and Cream Cookie
Corn Cookie
Compost Cookie
Birthday Cake
Previously responsible for developing the Dessert program at Momofuku Christina Tosi’s Milk Bar can now be considered something of an adjacent concept, its opening in 2008 followed by two James Beard Awards and outposts from Boston to The Cosmopolitan’s second floor in Las Vegas.
At one time under Momofuku’s direction, an era of Pork-imbued Challah and Pistachio Croissants giving way to Naked Cakes and the sort of “wokeness” that renamed Crack Pie, it is from 10am that guests can visit Milk Bar Las Vegas for everything from “Cake Truffles” to Soft Serve – including the famous Cereal Milk version melted down for a formidable White Russian.
Now a nationwide brand complete with overnight shipping, the assumption that items in cellophane are shipped-in confirmed by a clerk, suffice it to say Tosi’s Corn Cookie remains remarkable for somehow remaining true to the Vegetable while her iconic “Compost” version is essentially a Kitchen Sink round substituting Potato Chips for Coconut.
“Sold out” of Sprinkles on this day, though plenty were suspended in the sponge of a tiny $13 slice of Birthday Cake, Milk Bar’s Blueberries and Cream Cookie fared less-well than its brethren thanks to a stale-textured crumb while the $7 now-eponymous slice of Pie remains addictively gooey with Butter and Brown Sugar atop an Oat Cookie Crust.
TWO AND A HALF STARS: Made even more famous by Netflix it can probably be said that Christina Tosi is now happy to “mail it in,” her place as one of America’s most famous Pastry Chefs firmly cemented and a new group of tourists every day assuring that signature items will continue to command top dollar even though quality may suffer due to volume, shipping, freezing and any other number of factors.
RECOMMENDED: Milk Bar (Crack) Pie, Corn Cookie, Cereal Milk White Russian.
AVOID: Blueberries and Cream Cookie, absurdly priced Cake Slices.
TIP: Open from 10am daily.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Chickpea Ramen – Fried Chickpeas, Bok Choy, Scallions
Bo Ssäm – Rice, Bibb, Kimchi
Crispy Duck Confit – Chili Yogurt, Tingly Salt, Cilantro
Part of Las Vegas for over five years, outlasting David Chang’s highly-touted Majordomo and still drawing a crowd from 11a-3p and 5:30p-11p daily, Momofuku at The Cosmopolitan feels “familiar” in a way its ownership likely never anticipated even though the brand has been changing the way Americans eat since 2004.
An unequivocal success story, Chang’s personal issues in no way dampening the vibe of a sprawling space that begins at Peach Bar and extends to Strip views including an Eiffel Tower, it is in the hands of “hip” yet gracious staff that diners entrust themselves while music from 1970 to now plays overhead a bit too loud.
Toqued by former Le Cirque Chef Alan Mardonovich, his considerable skillset befitting Food that references America, Korea and Japan with roots in French technique, lunch features a concise menu of Momofuku classics alongside ideas from Mardonovich plus predictably pricey Cocktails such as the lactose-free Creamsicle Slushie.
Adaptable as a snack or full meal, with Milk Bar next door for Dessert, it should be unsurprising that nearly every table begins with Chang’s empire-launching Pork Belly Buns, $7 each not exactly a “bargain” but easily justified across three delicious mouthfuls while “Spicy Cucumbers” with Togarashi and crushed Almonds prove shareable and complex for just nine bucks.
Less impressed by $28 Salmon Crudo, under-portioned and mostly forgettable save for the Fish’s fine quality, Ramen proves another “must” regardless of outdoor temperature – Pork Belly and Shoulder in creamy Shoyu Broth made more creamy with Egg Yolk while Vegan Chickpea Ramen sees texture the focus and no two bites the same.
Serving Chang’s growing lineup of Condiments to add Heat or Umami, Hoisin, Scallion Oil and something akin to Sriracha arriving alongside a demi-portion of Bo Ssäm with Lettuce Cups and housemade Kimchi, those disinterested in $180 to $268 “Large Format” items will find the Pork Shoulder well-represented while Chef Mardonovich’s Crispy Duck Confit features faultless Legs with crisp Skin and juicy Flesh ready to be dragged through Yogurt infused with Chilis.
FOUR STARS: Having never felt the need to go to the Las Vegas outpost thanks to fourteen years of dining across Noodle, Ssam, Ko, Ma Peche and Majordomo it wasn’t until former Le Cirque Executive Chef Alan Mardonovich took over that David Chang’s Restaurant at The Cosmopolitan became interesting, and thanks to quality Ingredients plus good technique the Food can safely be said to justify its pricepoint.
Born in Logan, Utah, Crumbl took the city by storm, their Instagramable rounds offered in thirty stores across six states by 2019 and now easily 100+ with several in Sin City including the Henderson location opened in June 2021.
Created by Sawyer Hemsley and Jason McGowan, rapid expansion through franchising yielding mixed results from store to store as evidence by Social Media, it was after three improving experiences that the newer storefront proved competent, the staff exceedingly pleasant whilst describing each $3 choice.
Undoubtedly popular in part due to photogenicity, though a sterile interior oversells the fact that everything is made from scratch, the first thing those entering will notice is Crumbl’s limited collection of just six weekly flavors, four specials alongside Sugar slathered in seasonal Icing plus Chocolate Chip that uses all Milk Chocolate and trends far too sweet.
Still a young company, so much success despite only starting in September 2017 certainly enviable, best bites came from “Minions” specials that included “Banana Pudding,” the Southern classic well-represented atop a Sugar Cookie shaped to contain it and Nilla Wafers.
Offered onsite or via delivery from 8am until at least 10pm Monday through Saturday, dark Sundays reminiscent of Chick-fil-a, it was next that Confetti disappointed by being largely the same as standard Iced, though “Moon Cake” proved a dramatic improvement thanks to indulgent Filling, even if it was nothing like the traditional Chinese version.
Again finding “Cake” concepts better than the Cookies crumbl made their name by Dirt Cake rounded the week out with Dark Chocolate x3, the richness expected and best shared with a glass of Milk or cup of Coffee at its side.
THREE STARS: With Cookies currently seeing a surge in popularity Utah-brand Crumbl lures guests in by rotating flavors weekly, this collection successful with a few flavors but still more “cake” than cookie.
RECOMMENDED: Banana Pudding, Moon Cake.
AVOID: Chocolate Chip, Sugar.
TIP: $3 each or $10 for four. Delivery range and offerings found at www.crumblcookies.com/order
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
