Heavily decorated in antique tiles and located near Mercat Central in Valencia’s cultural corridor there is little doubt that Horchateria de Santa Catalina has been committed to its craft for quite some time, and although Horchata in Spain is quite different from that found in the United States and Mexico the Chufa (or Tiger Nut) based beverage should undoubtedly be on the to-taste list of travelers visiting the city where many claim it was created.
No question a bit touristy in the current era, centuries of history having seen the small shop change hands several times while recipes reportedly remain true to those originally created at the shop’s inception, Horchateria de Santa Catalina opens at 08h15 daily and remains open until at least 21h30, the sizeable seating area and quick service rare to see a wait while staff is pleasant and multi-lingual.
In many ways a “do one thing and do it well” concept, though sipping Chocolate and Coffee are available in addition to the sweet and creamy drink served cold in tall glasses for €2.80, those entering the Horchateria are quickly invited to take a seat after first perusing a case of leavened Pastries focused on elongated Fartons, both the shape and their characteristic wispiness intended for dunking and costs ranging €0.90 for one dusted with Confectioner’s Sugar to €1.40 for those that are filled.
Fancied by locals and tourists alike as one of the best bakeries and breakfast nooks in all of Valencia it was on the first Sunday of a trip to Eastern Spain that a stop was made at Dulce de Leche on Carrer de Jesús, both the scene and the cuisine living up to its praise with service that, despite language barriers, goes above and beyond what is expected to assure each guest a great experience.
The more sizable of two locations, another visited just 27-hours later in the city’s Ruzafa area far more crowded and loud, guests visiting Dulce de Leche Jesus at any time of day will likely find the café busy and after waiting in a small queue the largest issue is one of deciding what *not* to order from a collection of more than fifty choices, made to order coffee the only things delaying guests from collecting their goods and eating immediately with numbered cards handed out along with an invitation to take a seat as items are plated.
Populated with about 90% locals, many of them clearly regulars based on the manner in which they were greeted by staff, it was on the far side of a wooden picnic table that a seat was taken followed by perhaps five minutes wait as a smooth Americano was prepared, the radio overhead American and largely ignorable with the setting shabby-chic and relaxing, a total of six items soon to arrive including a flaky Argentinean “Bay Biscuit” provided complimentary as the young lady at the register had difficulty describing what was essentially laminated dough crusted in Sugar with a savory linger that seemed to be from creamy White Cheese as opposed to Buttermilk.
Offering savories in addition to the sweets, the former not really of much interest despite the fact that all of it looked quite nice, Breakfast progressed with two small Alfajores that outperformed those Stateside thanks to both the quality of the Caramel and unsweetened Coconut used for balance, the freshly-made Mil Hojas also quite successful with the Pastry layers still flaky and crisp with the thick Dulce de Leche creating no sog.
Almost overwhelming in terms of Cake choices, the American practice of only offering a select-few by the slice completely the opposite as staff was seen cutting large wedges of more than a dozen choices for patrons as early as 08h15, those looking for a truly remarkable Carrot Cake are encouraged to give Dulce de Leche a chance as the traditional sweetness of Pineapple is replaced by bold spicing which allows both Walnuts and grated Vegetables to shine beneath light icing, both the Dark Chocolate with Apple and Marble Plum Cake with Pears eating like “Ooey Gooey” Butter Cake with rich Streusel topping atop a smooth Fruit base.
Charcuterie – House Mortadella, N’duja Sausage, Wild Boar Sausage, Salchichon, Curemaster’s Reserve Mangalitsa Ham, Jamon Iberico de Bellota, Pa Amb Tomaquet
Bison Buffalo Style – Pickled Celery, Blue Cheese, Wing sauce
Sweet Little Selections – Dark Chocolate Almond Éclair / Praline Inspired by Pierre Herme Puff Pastry / Chantilly Cream Puff / Cherry Sherry Pate de Fruit / Hazelnut Financier / Milk Chocolate Banana Lime Cake / Bacon Strawberries Cream Puff Pastry / Dark Chocolate Aged Rum Cake / Salted Caramel Candy / Pecan Pie Cookie/ Dulcey Pecan Tart / Key Lime Tart / Milk Chocolate Peanut Caramel Tart
Not entirely sold on Jose Andrés, a significant slight at minibar and several previous visits to both his Las Vegas and Washington DC Restaurants presenting a mixed bag in terms of Food and service, it was along with one other that a third visit was paid to Bazaar Meat by José Andrés on Saturday evening, the sizable restaurant truly pulling out all the stops with service directed by Pano Argyriades exemplary while the menu crafted by Andrés and Executive Chef Alex Pitts weaves a wide path while still executing at an extremely high level.
Making no secrets about the uncertain future of the SLS, a languishing property currently in a state of transition that was far less filled than one would expect on the night of a blockbuster fight that had nearly every hotel in town booked to capacity, it was with the car parked in a free garage that guests weaved their way across the gaming floor past an empty Katsuya, Clio and 800° en route to the Steakhouse, Mr. Argyriades and another familiar face from Jean Georges Steakhouse offering greetings and a lengthy tour of the restaurant’s several hot and cold stations.
Still featuring the same unique design flourishes as when it opened, a combination of Bulls and Alligators decorating the walls with mismatched chairs and chandeliers making sure no line of sight is ever boring, it was on one side of a four-top that diners were sat in order to be given a full view of the room, a prix-fixe tasting arranged in advance showing off the full breadth of what the space is capable of over the course of the evening.
Always a showman, the influence of Adria and modernism still ubiquitous in Andrés Think Food Group restaurants even as many guides and ‘best of’ lists have refocused on terroir-driven concepts like those throughout Copenhagen or Peru, it was not long after settling in that a Cocktail list was presented and starting with Bazaar’s signature ‘Magic’ Mojito with a smoking Cotton Candy melt as well as an herbal Bee’s Knees riff entitled Gopalito the night was underway, a grocery store-sized Pork Skin shattered tableside with a mallet and matched to aerated Greek Yogurt while gimmicky Cotton Candy Foie Gras was outshined by a classic duo of Croquettas, the Chicken a bit larger and delicious in their own right but the duo stuffed with creamy Cheese and Pork from Spain’s famous Acorn-fed Pig truly divine.
Offering a quartet of briny bites to refresh the palate, a cone of Cream Cheese and Salmon Roe deemed too fishy by one at the table while the smoke-filled dome of Oysters and famous duo of Olives from El Bulli were both as impressive in terms of display as they were in flavor, those looking for Las Vegas’ best Tartare would be hard-pressed to nominate a better candidate than Bazaar’s tableside “Classic” made with trimmed elder-Sirloin that offers good texture and great depth of flavor, the vegan-friendly Beefsteak version equally impressive as a result of the quality of the Tomato and vibrant notes added by old Balsamic and dehydrated Black Olive.
Finishing off the last of the buttery Parker House Rolls as a makeshift Tartare Sandwich, the exemplary Washugyu Beef-wrapped Grissini arriving next with bold Onion Cream, Andrés fanaticism for ingredients was again put on display with several imported Meats alongside housemade Mortadella and Wild Boar Sausage, the Jamon Iberico de Bellota as good as one will find in Spain, though certainly not without a cost as each leg reportedly costs the restaurant a shade under $3500 to import.
Going so far as to source the Bread for their Pa Amb Tomaquet straight from Spain for the sake of authenticity, the rest of the Breads and Pastries made on-site, those looking for another tasty raw bite should consider the Hot Sauce glazed Bison Carpaccio that pairs brilliantly with Chef’s Paprika dusted Potato-sticks, these two snacks offered as a conclusion to a bakers-dozen ‘appetizers’ before two more Cocktails were presented, the Pepino Sonado smooth and refreshing with a great mouthfeel while the sweet and juicy Sangria Roja expectedly paired well with the grilled Meats to come.
Not expecting whole-plates, the point being to see as much variety as possible from a menu that is broad but at the same time focused, it was nonetheless that several large cuts were presented in a grand display of entrees and sides, the Turbot and Octopus straight from Spanish waters to the Josper Grill both impeccably charred and tender with the Fish still out-ranking any other in Sin City and a close rival to the famous version of Elkano while the Pulpo was a classic preparation served atop boiled Potatoes dusted with Paprika.
Deferring temperature to the kitchen, both the New Zealand Lamb Rack and Texas-based hybrid Cattle cooked Rare at low temperatures on the top rack of the grill, those who enjoy actually tasting the Animal as opposed to a bunch of Salt and seasoning will be duly impressed by the quality of either cut, Chef Pitts housemade Catalan Sausage also a remarkable dish that is currently available in a much smaller portion size than prior thanks to the Summer tasting menu.
Never one to refuse Joel Robuchon’s classic 50/50 Butter and Potato Puree, Andrés again paying homage to a contemporary by name on his menu, additional sides included roasted Mushroom Caps filled with Garlic, Butter and bitter Nasturtium as well as spicy little ears of Corn with ‘powdered’ Popcorn, the Foie Gras ‘S’mores’ an excellent way to bridge savory to sweet, as was the first of two double Espressos on Ice and a stiff and smoky Cocktail constructed tableside entitled “Blurred Borders.”
Previously underwhelmed by Bazaar’s Pastry department, the idea of a bunch of petit fours sold sight-unseen at $2-8 seeming a bit disingenuous and unimaginative, recent times have seen the Restaurant usher in an immense Dessert Cart laden with over two-dozen choices, a ‘one of each, please’ strategy seeing two slates laid out with several clever creations, the Caramelized Pastry crediting Pierre Herme as well as the ones with Brandied Cherries or Bacon and Strawberries all quite memorable as were the Pecan Pie Cookie, Dark Chocolate Almond Éclair, White Chocolate Raspberry Chambord Cake and Tarts of Pineapple and Jasmine as well as Dulcey Pecan and Key Lime.
FIVE STARS: Although José Andrés seems to make the news more often these days as an outspoken advocate for political causes than he does as a Chef, 2017 finds Bazaar Meat amongst not only the upper echelon of Las Vegas Steakhouses but Restaurants in general, Chef Pitts and GM Argyriades running a tight ship even as the rest of the SLS stands in limbo with the sort of ingredients, cooking and diversity that sees one already planning a return visit mere moments after they’ve left.
RECOMMENDED: Gopalito, Sangria Roja, Croquettas de Jamon, The Classic Tartare, Beef & Parmesan Grissini, Housemade Mortadella, Jamon Iberico de Bellota, Josper-Roasted Whole Turbot, Butifarra Catalana, Robuchon Potatoes, Pecan Pie Cookie, Dulcey Pecan Tart, Black Forrest Puff Pastry, Pineapple Jasmine Cheesecake
AVOID: Cotton Candy Foie Gras is a pricey gimmick and those averse to fishy flavors should definitely avoid the Bagel & Lox Cone
TIP: Currently offering Summer, Classic and Jose’s Way Tasting menus at $75, $125 and $185 respectively. See the website for details.
Greed Chili Pork – Pepper Jack Cheese, House Pico de Gallo, Fried Egg, Kaiser Bun
At this point rivaling many of the industry’s biggest names in terms of styles, awards and distribution, a total of over thirty Lagers, Stouts, Pilsners and Ales including their eponymous IPA and 312 Urban Wheat commonly found at Bars, Grocers and Liquor Stores across the globe, fans of Goose Island Beer Company are a devout group frequently encountered in the MidWest and although the company sold to Anheuser-Busch in 2011 most will say the quality has not diminished, the only real change being an improvement in the products’ previous scarcity.
Founded by John Hall in 1988 and growing the brand out of a small Chicago brewery into an empire of Pubs spanning seven cities including Las Vegas as of June 2016, one could say that Goose Island was one of the first American Craft Beer manufacturers to really strike it big, the 3,500 square foot location inside the Hard Rock Hotel & Casino playing host to two for lunch during the first Saturday of College Football in 2017.
Formerly home to The Ainsworth, a shadowy Sports Lounge across from Vinyl that had never seemed particularly hospitable, Goose Island Pub picks up where the former tenant left off by retaining its dual ports of entry but by opening one up and redecorating with blonde woods, better lights and more televisions the space instantly feels more welcoming, a recent tweak by Hard Rock Executive Chef Bradley Manchester seeing the space ditch Pretzels, Pizzas and Tots in favor of a menu built around the Windy City and several classic American Sandwiches.
Not especially fond of Beer and dining with a total teetotaler, the obvious focus thus on Food and the scene with a particularly brisk Iced Tea refreshing palates between bites, it was after greetings from a well-inked Bartender soon joined by a blonde female server in short-shorts that the menu was perused, the eventual order including a half-dozen items including three Sandwiches with everything sent out at a leisurely pace across three courses.
Largely familiar with the company and its first BrewPub, a favorite of family during their time in Chicago though the food had never technically been tasted, it was with Oregon State playing across several Televisions while the Yankees occupied others that conversation carried on beneath Rock music, the first round featuring a metal bucket of Crispy Bacon and Peanuts with a Spicy Maple Glaze alongside thin slices of garlicky Pita and a skillet of stewed Tomatoes, Pepperoni, Basil and bubbling Mozzarella.
Not the sort of place to cut corners, the spicy Giardiniera, Sweet & Sour Peppers, Pico de Gallo and Buns all made in-house daily, it was with the last few bites of Relish finished off that two sandwiches arrived in white wrapping, the presentation doing no justice to the package’s actual contents as both the juicy roast Beef and Pork were as good as what one will find in Chicago or Philadelphia, the former served with plenty of Peppers on a toasted Hoagie capable of standing up to its contents even after a dip in Jus while the later could make fans of Tommy DiNic’s do a double take.
Equally presenting classics alongside novelties, platters of hand-cut Fries offered plain or with any number of toppings including Hot Sauce or Chili, it was a bit of a shock that the other man at the table stated he’d “never had *real* Poutine” when a platter slathered in melted Curds and rich Beef Gravy arrived, the bastardization of the dish largely due to the Québécoise themselves but Manchester’s version true to the real thing while the Green Chili Pork channeled the Southwest with tender roasted Butt spiced up by Cayenne and Black Peppers even before the smoky Green stuff was added along with Pepper Jack, Onions and Tomatoes plus a Sunny-Side Egg on a fluffy Kaiser Roll.
THREE AND A HALF STARS: Thus far not really capturing the hearts of Las Vegans or Tourists, the fact that much of the Hard Rock’s clientele comes from Los Angeles as opposed to Chicago at least partly at play, Goose Island is a very strong entry amongst the city’s best places to catch a game, though in order to truly stand out the presentation of Sandwiches could stand to be a little more creative while game-sounds as opposed to music from the Casino floor would also be much appreciated.
RECOMMENEDED: Roast Pork Sandwich, Sweet Italian Beef Sandwich, Classic Poutine.
AVOID: N/A, but considering the fact that Goose Island’s website features no less than a half-dozen Desserts built around their Beer one assumes that Goose Island Pub could at least put one on the menu…or tab the Hard Rock Hotel and Casino’s talented Mickey Harden to create something of his own.
TIP: Open 11am until “late” daily with several Goose Island Beers on tap changing seasonally, those looking to charge their cell-phones would be well advised to stop in for Lunch or a Beer as each table sports mobile chargers doubling as menu cards.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Raspberry Soda – Greek Yogurt Sherbet, Basil Pearls, Raspberry Marshmallow
Baba Au Rhum – Vanilla Poached Rhubarb, Strawberries, Elderflower Bavaroise
Black Forrest Torte – Dark Chocolate Ganache, Devil’s Food Cake, Cherry Kirsch Gelee, Milk Chocolate Ice Cream
Foie Gras Candy Bar – Salt and Pepper Peanut Butter Cream, Bourbon Caramel, Single-Origin Milk Chocolate
It was just one day after Aria’s first anniversary that a solo dinner was enjoyed at Shawn McClain’s Sage, the subsequent six and three-quarter years seeing a cross-country move and travels around the globe but inexplicably no return to the Restaurant despite fond memories, a long-planned night out with a friend and his mother recently showing both the cuisine and service to have matured under the guidance of Executive Chef Chris Heisinger and General Manager Nathan Grates.
By many standards an unlikely “Celebrity Chef” restaurant for Las Vegas, McClain making a name for himself at Vegetable-centric Spring and Green Zebra in Chicago before opening the first of what has since become a total of three Casino restaurants spanning two properties, Sage was originally opened alongside Bar Masa as one of Aria’s fine-dining crown jewels, the ‘farm to table’ concept outlasting Michael Mina’s American Fish and Serio Italian with its neighbor rumored soon to close, as well.
Without a doubt one of the city’s most striking rooms, a high-ceilinged lounge with enormous murals and an immense Bar found just beyond luminous Wine racks en route to the first of two dining rooms featuring sensual shades of purple and spot lighting with dramatic pockets of darkness in-between, diners sitting down to dinner at Sage will find themselves offered one of several banquets or tables with plenty of padding and dark wood, the music overhead creating a pulse though occasionally too loud throughout the evening.
Served in a team-style similar to many of Las Vegas’ larger restaurants, the runners well-educated and more than capable of presenting a plate with ample description of ingredients and technique involved, it was with Carte Blanche given to the kitchen that the meal began with a small glass of Champagne, the amuse to follow not dissimilar to Jean George Steakhouse’s Egg and Brioche with Caviar and traditional Condiments packed into a neat Sandwich from just a few weeks prior.
Halfway between a ‘small plates’ concept and one where each diner is encouraged to order her or his own three-course meal, the offering of a Bar Menu as well as Vegan, Vegetarian, Seasonal and Chef’s Tasting menus providing a wide variety of dining styles to accommodate several tastes, timeframes and budgets, it was with two styles of Bread plus good Butter and Sea Salt that dinner progressed into individually plated Ora King Salmon slicked in Olive Oil with Citrus, Salmon Roe and Herbs, the flavors far too ‘fishy’ for one at the table while the textures were smooth and luxurious with plenty of balance in the eyes of the others.
Moving next to a round of shared Salads, two signature and the other seasonal, it was again with raw Fish dissuading one guest that this round exemplified what diners can expect from Sage as a whole, each plate presenting a bold compellation of ingredients whose flavors and textures complement one another without anything seeming out of place or unnecessary, the smoked Coconut and Ginger giving Hamachi a Thai-tinge while both the roasted Carrots and crispy Pig Skins as well as the Heirloom Tomato Salad with curls of Ham and briny Feta in Black Garlic confidently presented protein as a garnish with light sweetness helping to tie everything on the plate together.
Next offering an off-menu Salt Cod Croquette with bright spices and a bit of cooling aioli, though the placing proved to be a bit strange with several delicate courses to follow, it was here that Chef Heisinger sent forth two Sage-classics that predate his arrival, the aged-Wagyu Tartare using a Chocolate Tuille to perfume raw Beef in a subtle manner similar to the Cocoa Nibs found in caramelized Foie Gras Custard, without a doubt one of Sin City’s true ‘destination’ dishes and nearly matched by the tasting menu’s Sugar-shellacked Torchon with rounds of Brioche and three tastes of Blueberries.
Individually pouring three-bowls of umami-rich Bisque next, the broth forgivingly light and thus allowing the flavors of Lemongrass and aromatic oils to highlight a snappy Langoustine and raw slices of Beech Mushroom, it was with a quartet of entrees served family style that savories came to a conclusion, the Black Bass moist and flaky beneath crispy Skin that played well off seasonal Vegetables in an almost Curry-like bath while the Spring Lamb and Veal Cheeks each put a bit of heat in the mix to help balance the fat, the former doing so with Peppers amidst the Snap Peas while the latter hinted toward cooler weather ahead with Paprika Jus and Dumplings in a hearty Stew.
Savoring the Iberico Pork until the end, a smoky Sauce beautifully matching tender flesh to sweet Apricots, Pepitas and toasted Kale, it was with an $8 Double Espresso that the palate was cleared in preparation for Dessert, the “Raspberry Soda” prepared tableside light but a bit too “Marshmallow Salad” in terms of its texture while the tasting menu’s Baba Au Rhum did justice to the French classic with Rhubarb predictably complimenting Strawberries despite the fact that the “Elderflower” Bavaroise was fairly underflavored.
At this point fairly full, but unable to resist requesting one last dish that has been garnering acclaim ever since it was added to the menu, it was with last bites of the deconstructed Black Forrest Torte finished that Mr. Grates presented the Foie Gras Candy Bar, a good choice for those who do not want something ‘too sweet’ at meal’s end and truly exemplary in its ability to both highlight and harness liver’s unctuousness with Salt, Nuts, bitter-sweet Chocolate and oaky Caramel.
FOUR STARS: Perhaps flawed a bit by giving the kitchen so much flexibility in Carte Blanche on a busy Friday, the Brandade Fritter certainly better served elsewhere in the progression and the “Soda” not on par with what one would expect from fine dining in terms of visuals or texture, Sage is nonetheless a worthy restaurant amidst Las Vegas upper echelon, though dollar-for-dollar the a la carte courses are similar in cost to places that are a bit more rarified in their environment with ingredients and execution that are on par, or better.
RECOMMENDED: Roasted Heirloom Carrots, Foie Gras Brulee, Foie Gras Torchon, Iberico Secreto Pork, Black Bass, Foie Gras Candy Bar, Black Forrest Torte.
AVOID: $8 double Espresso is an outright scam, the Raspberry Soda is a lot like eating holiday Marshmallow Salad, no matter how ‘fancy’ they try to make it with the tableside iSi treatment, and seats closest to the lounge get a double wallop of the overhead music and a lounge act as the night goes on.
TIP: 6pm onward Monday through Saturday. Vegan Tasting Menu available on request with 5-courses for $75.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
If one were to simply pass by the space at 3650 South Jones Boulevard Suite 4 without paying attention they very well may assume nothing has changed in the past twenty-four months, the “Bakery” advertised on street signs present and accounted for, but for those who keep an eye on such things the reality is that Alfredo’s Patisserie is the third such concept to inhabit the space in that time, and the first that seems poised to make a real go at it.
Owned by Alfredo Rueda, a lifelong resident of Las Vegas with stints in several well-regarded kitchens throughout his career, Alfredo’s Patisserie officially opened in May and has been slow out the gates thanks to a combination of location and almost no Social Media presence despite a fairly impressive display of housemade Cakes, Cookies, Scones and Savories each at prices at about 1/2 of what one might pay elsewhere on-Strip or off.
Citing his mother as an early influence, training in vocational school and at CSN keeping him close before joining the teams at several MGM Properties where he worked alongside the corporate Pastry team honing his skills on large volume items with good eye appeal, Alfredo’s Pastry succeeds out the gates where Chantily’s and the quickly shuttered shop supposedly owned by Wynn’s Flora Aghababyan failed by presenting items so that guests immediately feel bewildered by choices, the service from a young Hispanic woman pleasant and informative though most items are labeled and fairly self-explanatory.
Open from 9am until 6pm weekdays, the bulk of the menu offered throughout the day including Tamales, Quiche and a few made-to-order choices including a Croque Madame, those visiting Alfredo’s thus far will see beverage choices limited to bottled Juices, Water and Cans of Coke as the Shop’s Espresso Machine has not arrived and with only one two-top available the space is currently best-suited for grab n’ go only, a total of ten items on this particular visit tallying just $21.25.
Picking up the Pastries during work hours and enjoying them at the office, each item only slightly more expensive than the average local grocery store and far better in terms of display as well as taste, it was with bites of the Rum-Almond Croissant that things got started, the interior a little moist but thankfully not with Frangipane after teeth crackled through the top to perfume the palate with a light hint of booze, the follow-up trio of Cookies all very impressive and just $1.25 for three-bites each, the texture of the Dark Chocolate Ganache stuffed inside a soft Chocolate Chip pocket silky smooth with the quality surprisingly quite high.
Passing on the Macarons, though at 99-cents each they all appeared to be much higher quality than those peddled for similar at Manon or Whole Foods, it was in a single bite that the two-Quarter Whoopie Pie was devoured, the Cake smooth and moist around Cream Filling while the Chocolate Chip Scone for $1.75 was an absolute steal, though certainly not fitting the British Standard as it was slathered with Glaze and thus neither subtly sweet nor dry.
Further impressed by the Coffee Cake, essentially a $2 Muffin with Cinnamon Chips on top and a delicate base rife with Butter and Spices, those looking for the best of the best at Alfredo’s would be well advised to invest $3 each in the Key Lime and Pecan Tarts and $2 in the Tres Leches Cup, the buttery shells supporting spot-on renditions of Florida and Georgia’s best Pies sized for one each on-par with Sin City’s best while the Cup goes Whipped Cream to sopping wet Cake to a Flan-like Base with each deep spoonful yielding something a little different.
FOUR STARS: Stripped down and bare with no social media stream, online Chef’s presence or advertising one can only assume that Alfredo’s will inevitably suffer the same fate as its predecessors, but ideally if locals catch on the Spring Mountain/South Jones intersection could finally have something sweet to go with all the places for Noodles and Pho at a price point that is on par with what most diners consider to be acceptable for the area.
RECOMMENDED: Tres Leches, Pecan Tart, Key Lime Tart, Filled Chocolate Chip Cookie, Cinnamon Coffee Cake.
AVOID: The Scone is super sweet and the Almond Croissant is too wet. Apparently closed on weekends, so avoid visiting then as well.
TIP: A bit tucked away, look for “BAKERY” on Signage on the East Side of South Jones near Pho 87.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
New York Cheese Cake – Caramel Banana, Candied Peanut Popcorn
When The Hard Rock Hotel & Casino decided to close 35 Steaks + Martinis in favor of a more casual concept to serve their Rehab Pool crowd the move was frustrating, but made sense, and even though the work Marty Red DeLeon Lopez and Michael van Staden were doing there will likely never be replicated by any Steakhouse in Sin City the Casino’s newest idea, MB|Steak from the descendents of Morton’s proved compelling enough to sit down for Sunday dinner alongside former Glutton owner and property-wide Executive Chef Bradley Manchester.
Located just off the gaming floor, a still-bustling Oyster Bar to one side and recently launched Magic Mike Live on the other, MB|Steak officially opened in mid-May 2017 and described as a concept created by the Morton Brothers to “bring the best memories of [their] family’s history to life” those dining within its heavily wooded confines will find nearly no detail overlooked, the low ceilings reminiscent of Chicago Steakhouses of the past and the menu veering wide, but not so much that it ever loses its path.
Toqued by Patrick Anthony Munster, the St. Louis native who cut his teeth at SW Steakhouse for over a decade moving back to a proper Steakhouse closer to the Strip after a brief stint with Clique Hospitality at Bottiglia, it was with the Chef enjoying a day off that a party of two checked in at the hostess podium before being led past the first of two bars and a staircase that takes guests to an upstairs lounge with living walls and city views, the dining room a bit stark at 5:30 but filling up to about 2/3 capacity by the time a 140 minute feast was completed.
Following a traditional route in offering Appetizers, Steaks, Entrees and Sides, luxury ingredients present in a similar manner to Munster’s former digs as first courses, additions to cuts of Beef and toppings to traditional comfort foods, it was with Cocktails and Wine declined that the menu was perused in search of items both classic and distinctive, a plate of housemade Focaccia with caramelized Cheddar similar but surprisingly even better than the Bacon and Cheddar Roll enjoyed at SW less than 24 hours prior.
Keeping the volume low and lighting moody, a central chandelier shaped like something one might see in Game of Thrones with spiky projections of black metal and decorative LED bulbs pointed inward or up, it was with greetings from the manager and several familiar faces from 35 Steaks that a lengthy conversation about travel, family and the property’s ongoing renovations passed time before first courses arrived, the Caviar “sliders” an interesting idea at $7 each with ring-cut Buckwheat circles supporting briny black Eggs, a crisp Potato plus a dollop of Crème Fraiche.
Not going too far left of center in the offerings, an elongated plate of Spanish Octopus with Broccolini and Tomatoes slightly tough despite a good char and great flavor, those looking for something more decadent would be well advised to order Chef Munster’s Foie Gras that plates quite similar to the one at SW Steakhouse for 25% less, the exterior better caramelized and the portion around an ounce larger.
Opting to also make the entrée Risotto a starter, the creamy bowl of rice imbued with Mascarpone cooked as well as any in town with English Peas, Roasted Onions and a half-dozen plump Shrimp, it was with some bites of the dish still lingering that plates were re-set to prepare for main courses, two Steaks, four Sides and a trio of Sauces literally showing the kitchen cooking with fire as both the Rib-Eye and Dry-Aged New York featured a good crust and medium-rare center with the later nearly as robust as Carnevino’s version and far more complex than that at Wynn where the exact same 18oz Steak will cost guests $14 extra.
Enjoying the Bordelaise and Peppercorn Sauces plenty, though the house Steak Sauce trends a little too sweet, those who get excited for novel sides will be happy to see MB|Steak has its own take on classics dialed up, the Creamed Spinach with a Poached Egg and stretchy Cheese a reference standard side that tops any tasted in Sin City to date while the Mushroom Grits and Lobster Macaroni and Cheese also justify their cost by way of great flavors and good textures, the Creamed Corn unfortunately a bit too finely ground with the roasted Pepper somewhat overwhelming the generous chunks of Crab.
Turning to Hard Rock Pastry Chef Mickey Harden for sweets; everything else including the Bread made on-site as MB|Steak is not officially ‘owned’ by the Hotel & Casino, it is perhaps a bit surprising that the Morton Brothers decided to go straight-classic for Dessert when Chef Harden has proven quite creative elsewhere, though this small quibble is immediately forgotten when the $16 wedge of New York Style Cheesecake and eight-layer Carrot Cake arrive, each undoubtedly intended to be shared as they are listed “for two,” though both are easily among the Valley’s best and despite their large portions something one may want to peril taking a run at solo.
FOUR STARS: Not yet perfect, but sticking its neck out to join the conversation about the city’s Top 5 Steakhouses alongside the likes of Jean-Georges, Carnevino, Delmonico and Bazaar Meat, MB|Steak offers a great overall package of price, selection and style, the room far more welcoming than the vast houses of Meat on Las Vegas Boulevard while small execution errors were certainly not enough to ‘ruin’ any dish, and potentially a non-issue when Chef Munster is not enjoying a well deserved day off.
RECOMMENDED: Dry Age Bone-In New York, Seared Sonoma Foie Gras, Shrimp Risotto, Creamed Spinach, Lobster Mac & Cheese, Cheese Bread, Carrot Cake.
AVOID: Octopus was a little tough, Steak Sauce was a touch sweet and the Peppers should have been sweated longer to avoid overwhelming the Crab in a slightly over-pureed Cream Corn.
TIP: Although the exact purveyors of the Meats are not listed on the menu, all Steaks are Grain Fed and portions seem larger than elsewhere in town on both Appetizers and Sides, so be careful with the Bread.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Toasted Cherry Bread Pudding – Port Wine Reduction, Sauteed Cherries, Vanilla Crème Anglaise, White Chocolate Cherry Ice Cream
Coconut Tapioca – Tropical Fruits, Passion Fruit Glaze
Peaches and Cream – Brown Sugar Crisp, White Chocolate Mousse, Marcona Almonds, Basil Foam, Vanilla Peach Ice Cream
When Wynn Las Vegas opened its doors in 2005 it promised to usher in a new era for fine dining in Las Vegas, Chefs like Alex Stratta and Paul Bartolotta supposedly cooking in their kitchen each night, but flash forward over a dozen years and the tune is obviously quite different, only SW Steakhouse from David Walzog still adhering to its original concept or Chef and every bit as popular as it always has been after a recent facelift.
Located along the Lake of Dreams, one of Wynn’s many waterfalls in this case sprawling back from the Parasol Up / Parasol Down Cocktail Lounge, SW Steakhouse occupies a space below the level of the gaming floor across from Walzog’s sister Lakeside Restaurant and although the inward facing façade appears fairly unimpressive the space itself is a formal expanse with plush seating, big tables and subtle lighting.
Decried by critics for high prices and the open layout, a sea of beige that admittedly does feel a bit less refined than the heavy woods and high ceilings of Carnevino or the darkened recesses of Jean-Georges Steakhouse, dinner at SW begins with check-in at the hostess podium and if one is lucky enough to have reserved early or rich enough to have negotiated otherwise a seat close to the lake offers a great vantage of both the room and a series of shows beginning at 9pm.
Proud to be one of only a handful of restaurants in the United States serving 100% certified Tajima Cattle from the Hyogo Prefecture, the A5 graded Beef available at $55 per ounce with minimum of four, it is likely with wide eyes that many unsuspecting diners have sat and starred at the SW Menu and although certainly not a spot for bargain hunters the menu is actually one of the most diverse of the Casino Steakhouses with a long list of Sides, Appetizers, Desserts and Entrees plus a sizable collection of Daily Specials.
Happy to see Chef Walzog on property, a quick pace moving him from SW Steakhouse to Lakeside and back while waiting for the entire party to arrive, it was with a team of servers including a female captain and several runners that the table was looked over and although a few small issues including a misfired side and odd delays in timing seemed a bit ‘off’ for Wynn the evening was mostly smooth sailing over the course of nearly three hours.
Opting to start with Cocktails and an imported Japanese Beer, prices ranging from $15-$22 more or less expected with both The Dream and Orange Rose brisk but elegant with a Wine and Spirit backbone bolstered by floral and fruity flavors, it was not long after an order was placed that the first of three baskets of Bread arrived, the Bacon and Cheddar Muffins as well as the salty Pretzel dangerously addictive both with and without Herb Butter slicked in Olive Oil.
Treated to the sounds of The Ratpack throughout the evening, a large animatronic Frog later scaling the wall and serenading the crowd with Louis Armstrong’s “What a Wonderful World” before two lighted spheres barely visible from anywhere but waterside danced about, it was perhaps twenty minutes after ordering that four appetizers made their way out from the kitchen, a classic Wedge Salad upgraded by thick-cut Bacon and Blue Cheese melted beneath tangy Buttermilk Dressing about as good as it gets for Iceberg Lettuce while Walzog’s Bone Marrow stepped in a previously unseen direction with a thick lacquer of Lobster Stock that made the rich spread taste a lot like Shellfish Custard.
Dining with another fan of Duck Liver, his preference for a seared preparation making it mandatory that both styles available that evening be ordered, it would be difficult to decide which version was ‘better’ as both were quite good, the lack of caramelization on the Steak made less relevant by Pistachio Bread Pudding beneath while the Mousse was creamy and well balanced between sweet and savory, but served with far too little Brioche for spreading or sharing.
Moving next to entrees and sides, the Wagyu passed over in favor of SW’s signature Rib-Eye, a Dry Aged Bone-In Strip and the newly added Fish n’ Chips, those unafraid of spice and bored with the typical Steakhouse cuts would be well advised to invest $125 in the 42oz Chile-Rubbed Steak with two Ribs and lots of Peppers and Onions, the flavors all playing well off juicy flesh still sizzling in its pan and every bite far more interesting than the $72 Bone-In that lacks in flavor compared to that at Carnevino, Jean-Georges or the recently opened MB|Steak at Hard Rock where the exact same 18oz portion can be had with better texture and richness for $14 less.
Underwhelmed by the Fish n’ Chips, a smallish-filet of Halibut that is baked beneath a crust of Malt-Vinegar Potatoes and served alongside overcooked Hashbrown Sticks on a bed of Lemon Beurre Blanc, SW Steakhouse makes up for a lack of creativity in its sides by way of quality and luxury ingredients, the Potato Rosti on a pedestal with Chive Cream a showstopper by any definition while Creamed Corn is still thick enough to have a tooth, though probably a bit more impressive during Black Truffle season.
Not a fan of Walzog’s Brussels Sprouts, the Crucifers coming across like soggy slaw rather than the crispy orbs served elsewhere, sides were completed by a late-arriving daily special of Semolina Gnocchi with chunks of Lobster and a few flakes of Summer Truffle in Parmesan Cream, the mixture expectedly rich though quite delicious and thankfully portioned large enough to go around considering the cost of $24.
Cleansing the palate with a double Espresso, its arrival nearly fifteen minutes before Dessert not exactly ideal but better than long after, it was with mild curiosity that the description of a $100 Louis XIII 23-Karat Gold Bar Dessert was read twice, the decision to place a premium on variety eventually seeing Pastry Chef Svetlana Almonte send forth a quartet of sweets tallying $54, the Coconut Tapioca fairly harmless with the Passion Fruit easily scooped aside while both the Bread Pudding and Peaches and Cream were elegantly presented with fresh Fruit, great textures and restrained sweetness, the $22 Funnel Cake and Strawberries largely served for show with the fried Dough hung from metal Branches above a trio of luxurious Sauces.
THREE STARS: Arguably the most expensive house of grilled Meats in Las Vegas, a fairly inauspicious title considering the competition, SW Steakhouse is a perfectly acceptable choice for those looking to enjoy a Steak and quality sides, but in the era of every Casino having its own signature spin on the genre there is nothing here all that compelling save for lakeside setting and even that seems a little contrived when compared to the dining rooms at Costa di Mare or Mizumi.
RECOMMENDED: Bacon Cheddar Bread, Oven Roasted Bone Marrow, Chile Rubbed Double Rib Eye, Crisp Potatoe Rosti, Peaches and Cream.
AVOID: Epi-Baguette, Dry Aged Bone-in New York, Fish n’ Chips, Shaved Brussels Sprouts, $14 Coconut Tapioca.
TIP: 5:30-10:00pm daily, but don’t trust Opentable about availability as “sold out” times are almost universally available by calling the reservations department directly.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Watered down Coffee over Ice, House Ice Coffee with Milk and Sugar
Onion Rings
Country Fried Steak with Sausage Gravy, three Over Easy Eggs and Homefries
Biscuits
Sausage and Scrambled Eggs
Mama’s Stack with Whipped Cream and Strawberries
Cinnamon Roll
Long ago outgrowing the limited confines of their previous location, a visit in September of 2014 finding the small and narrow restaurant completely full, Mr. Mama’s relocated to the corner of South Jones and West Russell Road the following March, late Breakfast over two-years later still finding the mom ‘n pop place packing ‘em in from open to close with waits as long as an hour on weekends for food that is affordable and competent, no less and no more.
Inexplicably one of Las Vegas most heavily Yelped! Businesses, the only presumed reason being that low prices and big portions are a selling point for that particular demographic as the online deal offering $30 of food for a $15 pre-purchase expired long ago, it was with another adult plus a ten year old boy that the group checked in at the podium just past noon on a Saturday and waiting alongside four twenty-somethings who Uber’d from the Strip plus a couple passing through from Utah for nearly thirty minutes the scene was nothing short of controlled chaos, servers moving at a steady clip with a manager directing traffic while intermittently snapping pictures of another full house.
Eventually landing a table along the north wall of the restaurant, the current location not doing much to upgrade the décor but nearly tripling the number of seats with an equivalent increase in servers and kitchen size, it was by an identical menu from three years ago that diners were greeted, a few daily specials including Pancakes or French Toast slathered in canned Fruit Compote immediately passed over in favor of a two-plate and three sides order tallying just over $50 prior to tip.
Literally filled to capacity until their 2pm closing time, no waiting diners turned away but the Open/Closed sign flipped over and no further seating allowed after the designated time, it was with a small glass of Milk and two Iced Coffees that the table waited another thirty minutes after seating for the whole order to be delivered at once, the house “Iced Coffee” similar to McDonald’s in that it comes with Cream and Sugar already added while the Hot Brew poured over Ice is watered down and weak, though both are offered with endless refills for just three dollars.
Interestingly hiding prices on their website, an odd choice as most of the diner-staples ring in at a pricepoint similar to the big chains or other locally owned joints such as EggWorks or The Cracked Egg, it was with the table quickly flooded that pictures were taken and share plates were passed, the “Mama’s Stack” putting sides of Sausage and Scrambled Eggs on a separate plate as the fluffy triple-stack overlapped its dish with Strawberries and Whipped Cream strewn on top, the addition of Pure Maple Syrup from home again showing the Pancakes to be rife with Buttermilk, not too dense and among the best in town.
Moving next to the Chicken Fried Steak, not a typical order but considered to be one of Mr. Mama’s signatures and interesting enough in that regard to justify its $12.95 cost inclusive of three sunny-side Eggs, an unfortunately dry Biscuit and previously-frozen Homefries, suffice it to say there is nothing light about Sausage Gravy atop a pounded piece of deep fried Beef and although fans of the dish may say this is as good as it gets the fact of the matter is that it is certainly an acquired taste that did not go over well with 2/3 of the table thanks to the thick and largely flavorless Country Gravy.
Mistakenly ordering an extra Biscuit, the addition of some honey definitely improving things to at least a point of edibility, those looking for something far better would do well to order one of Mr. Mama’s famous $3.50 Cinnamon Rolls, the yeasty curl piping hot beneath thick frosting while a similarly priced side of Onion Rings is enough to go around the table several times with crisp batter and nary a hint of greasiness.
TWO AND A HALF STARS: A pleasant enough place, though clearly one who has generated a following by way of low prices as opposed to quality cuisine, Mr. Mama’s reminds one of the sort of diner food that spawns big crowds after church in a small Midwestern town where creativity is for lack and abundance matters most.
AVOID: Biscuits, Coffee, Home Fries, Country Gravy, Fake Maple Syrup.
TIP: Those looking to use coupons would be well advised to expect a wait, math not exactly a strong suit for the staff and the middle-aged male cook with a pot-marked face who may or may not be the owner clearly a loud and greedy man who does not understand the idea of ‘fine-print.’
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Sweet Corn Hong Kong Waffle with Corn Berry Swirl Ice Cream and Fresh Fruit
Honey Toast with Toasted Strawberry Ice Cream and Fresh Fruit
Recently married, a child on the way, some fresh ink and selling off two successful Thai Restaurants to open up a cute Asian Dessert shop in a fairly unappealing strip-mall off South Decatur Boulevard one might think Bank Atcharawan is going through a premature mid-life crisis, but entering the elegant space titled “The Patio Desserts & Drinks” on Friday evening it seems the 37 year old may be onto something; his family close, the place packed as the clock approached 9pm and everyone smiling.
Just about to celebrate its four month anniversary, the opening menu thus far minimally modified and well-received by guests including several who have quickly become regulars, The Patio officially resides in Suite 107 of 5255 South Decatur Boulevard at the corner of Hacienda and although neighbors including Broken Dagger and a package liquor store may make the area seem a bit sketchy those lucky enough to pass through its doors are welcomed to a sort of oasis, a porch swing up front and ‘living’ wall behind the counter making the confines feel quite cozy – the sort of place where one might want to sit down and stay for a while.
Never one to cut corners, the build-out proudly displayed via social media ever since the lease was signed and everything save for the Bread used to construct Honey Toast made on site, it was mere moments after entering The Patio that three guests were welcomed by Bank’s wife Pimmie and seated at a comfortable wood four-top the menu was quickly navigated, the hardest choice what *not* to order and the eventual line-up entailing five Desserts and two drinks at an all-in cost of $55.
Open from noon till 1am Wednesday through Sunday, the crowd on this particular evening predominantly Asian with many stopping by after dinner at nearby Goyemon, it was not long after ordering that a mason-jar of Whole Milk and a smooth Caramel Macchiato arrived with a great foam plus a little bit of latte art, the Desserts requested to be served all at once as two of the five items were made-to-order.
Sitting below suspended plants, the soundtrack light and unobtrusive to allow for pleasant conversation with enough separation from the kitchen so that noise from the ovens and Espresso machine can barely be heard, it was after perhaps ten minutes that Mrs. Atcharawan and an elderly man approached with hands full, each item beautifully displayed on branded wood-boards and first bites of a Bubble Waffle studded with Sweet Corn far more impressive than that at CreamBerry a week prior, the exterior presenting a light crackle followed by warmth and sweetness while the housemade Corn Berry Swirl Ice Cream reminded me of Jeni’s award winning classic with a only slightly less smoothness.
Next tasting a few bites of Toasted Strawberry Ice Cream before dressing the Honey Toast, light bitter notes putting a unique spin on fresh Fruit flavors that work particularly well once all the Honey has soaked into the crispy block of Bread beneath, it was as those flavors marinated that three slices of cake were tasted, the Young Coconut unfortunately a bit too mild and thus coming across as little more than White Cake while both the Matcha-Red Bean and Thai Tea wedges were moist and well balanced, the former gaining a lot when drizzled in sour Blackberry Puree while the later was ideal as served with the light tang of Tamarind and prominent fragrance of Star Anise.
FOUR AND A HALF STARS: Not trying to compete with Sweets Raku or Suzuya in terms of artistry, but far outperforming the likes of CreamBerry, Is Sweet or Café Darak in terms of effort and execution, The Patio Desserts & Drinks is the sort of place worth stopping by for those in the area and one worth seeking out for those looking for something sweet late at night, the menu well-culled as opposed to being ‘everything for everybody’ and all the better for it.
RECOMMENDED: Specialty Hong Kong Waffle, Thai Tea Cake, Toasted Strawberry Ice Cream.
AVOID: Young Coconut Cake. $2.99 for 12oz of Non-Organic Milk is also sort of steep.
TIP: Wednesday- Sunday 12pm – 1am, @thepatiodnd on Social Media.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
CFC Wings – Fried Chicken, Togarashi, Honey, Hot Sauce
Legs and Eggs – Tempura Crab Leg, Caviar, Barrel Age Ponzu, Wasabi
White Truffle Toast – Grilled Focaccia, Gouda Fondue, Rosemary
Panna Cotta – Salted Caramel, Whipped Cream
Officially opened on June 29th in the former Glutton Space, ex-Light Group Director of Operations Liam Dwyer bringing Chef Gregg Fortunato to DTLV after a brief stint at HeXx, 7th & Carson has been quietly impressing guests ever since day one, a Friday night visit immediately following some new menu additions showing the kitchen already performing very well with bold flavors, quality ingredients and a lot of clever ideas.
Making small modifications in terms of paint and tabletops but largely quite similar in concept to Bradley Manchester’s dearly departed downtown spot at 616 E. Carson Avenue, the Craft Cocktails and Share Plates format fairly common across the globe for the last decade, 7th & Carson hopes to stir interest in an area where several restaurants have come and gone since Kerry Simon and Cory Harwell launched Carson Kitchen down the way from already successful Eat. the menu divided into four sections focused on Land, Sea, Garden and Oven with a flipside of Beers, Wines and creative Mixed Drinks.
A self-aware operation, the choice to route patrons to a podium near the patio on 7th taking away from the ‘urban’ feel and welcoming them to a place that feels more a part of the community than some random building, entry to 7th & Carson sees the space immediately unfold with kitchen to the right and bar to the left, the bold patterns on tables and spot-lighting making everything feel a little more exciting, though the iHeartRadio playlist plays a little too loudly overhead.
Still featuring the same kitchen design, a large wood-burning oven the focal point for good reason as many of the Breads and Meats are served piping hot with a touch of smoke, those who had the opportunity to taste Chef Fortunato’s work at Inyo or Blue Ribbon will be happy to see him freed from behind the scenes, smiling or chatting with guests and even though the food is no longer Asian the Chef seems very comfortable showing off another side of his skill-set.
Self-described as a “nice drinking spot with really great food,” both sides of the menu loaded with intriguing choices at prices about 40% less than what one would expect to pay for similar on The Strip, it was after a warm welcome from Gregg that a server stopped by to make recommendations, the Mixologist quickly charged with orders for two Cocktails including a classic Bee’s Knees re-titled Downtown Buzz and the subtly spiced “Hot Melons” that is about as perfect a Summer Cocktail as one can fathom, the fresh Watermelon Juice cooling housemade Habanero Syrup in a manner so compelling that it needed to be tried twice.
Allowing Chef Fortunato to dictate the flow of the evening, several plates ordered and a few brand new items sent out for feedback, it was with a fluffy ‘Pita’ made from cold-fermented Pizza Dough that the meal got started, the Mediterranean quartet of Spreads all delicious on their own and better when added to the Za’atar-spiced puff slicked in Olive Oil with a lightly crunchy Crust and hot, airy insides.
Dining with two others, the youngster a fiend for Oysters and apparently very happy with the East/West trios served alongside Grilled Peach Mignonette and boozy Cocktail Sauce, those who truly love Peaches would do well to order a recently added Salad of Grilled Peaches and Burrata Cheese, this version succeeding where The Black Sheep faltered by rendering the Fruit just a touch soft and balancing the sweetness of Honey with herbal Pesto and fresh Arugula.
Shying away from the words “Pizza” or “Flatbread” and labeling the Wood-fired rounds of Dough with toppings including Cheese “Pizetta,” a choice clearly based on misconceptions and marketing, those dining with a group would be well advised to take their pick from four choices including Margherita or Lamb Sausage, the latter placing spicy Merguez atop a blistered Crust with Feta, Pickled Onions and Fresh Yogurt while those looking for something with less carbohydrates may be better off investing $12 in an all-new plate of Pork Belly with Blue Cheese, Pig Skins and Honey.
Recently adding a requisite Burger to the menu, Mr. Dwyer’s Irish roots compelling the use of sweet Dubliner Cheese and Whiskey roasted Onions atop smoky Bacon and a thick Patty nestled inside a toasty Bun, it is with another Bar Food favorite that Gregg first brings a bit of Spring Mountain Road to Downtown Las Vegas, the twice-fried Wings immediately among the city’s best with a dusting of Togarashi and added-to-taste sides of Honey and housemade Hot Sauce.
Taking a lead from Cory and John at Carson Kitchen in offering familiar choices with ‘exotic’ ingredients added in a manner that will make them accessible to timid first timers, the confit Duck rolled into Puff Pastry with Peas and Carrots already a fan favorite, it is once again by channeling the flavors of Japan that Fortunato presents his “Legs and Eggs,” the tempura Crab sweet and meaty beneath delicate Batter while the combination of Wasabi Cream and Caviar is fairly intense and thus likely not for everyone.
Only currently offering one Dessert, a daily Chef’s creation that is not listed on the menu, it was with a pot of Gouda Fondue and fluffy Focacia that savory transitioned to sweet, the Salted Caramel “Panna Cotta” bruleed on one half more like a Budino when paired with whipped cream and certainly something that should be considered for the full-time line up.
FOUR STARS: Already off to a good start, the space pretty empty at 5:45pm but almost completely full by 8:30, 7th & Carson is a welcome addition to the DTLV and if management continues to let Chef Fortunato show his skills one can only hope this will be the start of big things to come for both the Restaurant and the entire downtown dining scene.
RECOMMENDED: Hot Melons, Hearth Oven Bread, Grilled Peach and Burrata, Lamb and Sausage Pizzetta, Downtown Dubliner Burger.
AVOID: The Music needs to be turned down, especially in areas towards the center of the room, otherwise the only complaint would be that the Pork Belly was a touch overcooked and that one Dessert is simply inadequate.
TIP: Currently open Thursday through Monday from 5pm till late. Online Menu up-to-date as of 8/18/17.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Bar Code Burger – Short Rib + Brisket and Chuck Blend, Newcastle Onion Jam, Smoked Bacon Aioli, Blue Cheese, Arugula, Pickled Red Onions, Peppers w/ Fresh-Cut Fries and Sriracha Ketchup
BBQ Big Burger – Blueberry BBQ Sauce, Smoked Boston Butt, Applewood Thick Bacon, Vermont White Cheddar Cheese w/ Fresh-Cut Fries and Sriracha Ketchup
French Strippers – Challah Bread French Toast, Housemade Strawberry Vanilla Maple Syrup, Strawberries, Buttermilk Chicken Strippers
Recently celebrating their first anniversary, an eastside location not far from UNLV placing the 24/7 joint far from tourists and their unwavering willingness to pay Holsteins or Gordon Ramsay $15+ for nothing more than an All-Beef Patty, Lettuce, Tomato, Onion, Mayonnaise, Ketchup and a Pickle, Bar Code is something of a hidden gem for in-the-know locals, Executive Chef Joe Valdez and his team turning out Food far better than they need to at a price that low-balls The Strip without sacrificing creativity or quality.
Difficult to peg as a place for craft Cuisine from the street, a single story along East Flamingo near Blueberry Hill and the Sketchers Outlet largely blending into the background with a sign that simply suggests it might be a good place to “Eat / Drink / Play,” those entering Bar Code will find the interior surprisingly modern, several LCD Televisions centrally located and perfect for watching sports while well-lit alcoves contain darts, shuffleboard and pool tables.
At this point amassing a fair number of regulars, the lunch and after-work crowd said to get fairly large in addition to the typical flow of traffic on game days, it was with greetings from a lone bartender/server that two friends were seated just past 5:30 on a Saturday featuring little more than the NFL Preseason, Chef Valdez present along with one other in the kitchen and happy to chat about his background which started here in Valley before stints in Colorado and years working in the Red Robin test kitchen.
Present at Bar Code from the start, a gig as Sous-Chef quickly seeing him advance to the lead role thanks to hard work and a willingness to go the extra mile in order to make the Restaurant’s collection of Burgers, Sides and Salads stand out in a city where there is never a lack of competition, it was after several minutes of candid conversation with Chef Valdez that the decision was made to defer an order to the young man, the meal divided into two Appetizers, two Burgers and “Dessert” lasting just under an hour as the Rams took on the Cowboys.
Not drowning out the game sounds with a jukebox, a welcome change compared to places like Aces & Ales or B.A.R. that cannot seem to get enough Journey or Def Leppard regardless of the time or event, it was after a few minutes further perusing the menu that Joe emerged from the kitchen carrying two trays including the lightly fried “Squid Vicious” and hand-breaded Chicken Strippers, the Calamari tender and nicely spiced beneath a crispy coat of Panko while the later was Pickle-brined and herbal with a lightly adherent layer of breading that was flavorful and practically oilless.
So far so good, the Code Sauce of Ketchup, Mayonnaise and “secret” Spices pairing well with both Appetizers and advisably kept to sauce Fries, it was after another ten minutes that Chef Valdez once again arrived tableside with two of Bar Code’s signature Burgers, the 70/30 blend of Brisket, Short Rib and Chuck forming a juicy backbone to housemade Blueberry BBQ, Pulled Pork and freshly fried Bacon on the BBQ Big Burger while the restaurant’s eponymous signature gets funky and fragrant with Beer-braised Onions, Bacon Aioli and Blue Cheese.
Grilling the Buns before service and making every Sauce, Jam or Aioli on-site, a labor intensive process most would not expect from a Video Poker and Sports Bar so far east of Las Vegas Boulevard, it was after a few too many fresh-cut Fries had been eaten that Chef Valdez at last arrived with “Breakfast for Dessert,” the French Strippers described as a dish he’d invented for his girlfriend making one say “what waffles?” as hand-trimmed strips of Chicken Breast brined in Buttermilk were just as crunchy and juicy as those served earlier, but without the Dill and instead laid on a bed of custardy Challah Bread with Fresh Strawberries, Whipped Cream and Housemade Strawberry-Vanilla Maple Syrup.
FOUR STARS: Going well above what is necessary for a 24/7 restaurant in Sin City, and smart enough to keep the menu well-crafted and focused rather than offering sub-par versions of “everything for everyone” Pub Grub like so many others, Bar Code rivals any Burger-centric spot on the Strip in terms of quality with prices that are about 33% less.
RECOMMENDED: Bar Code Burger, French Strippers.
AVOID: The Sriracha Ketchup served with Fries can be a bit abrasive for patrons who don’t take note of it on the menu while those sensitive to smoke will be challenged by dining at Bar Code as seating is not far separated from the bar where at least three out of every four patrons had a cigarette in-hand.
TIP: 21+ only and Trivia Night 7-9p on Tuesdays. Breakfast offered from 2a-10a daily.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Now representing the Lone Star State for more than 18 months in Henderson, a hand-built labor of love from owners Natalia Badzjo and Brian Buechner, Big B’s Texas BBQ has promised to bring proper Texas-style ‘Cue to the 702 from the very beginning and with some time now on the smoker and recipes dialed in to compensate for dry weather the product has ascended to a level not far from Little Miss BBQ down in Phoenix for best in the Southwest.
Located at 3019 St Rose Parkway, the nearby area full of hospitals and shopping plazas creating a built-in lunch crowd for the sizable space full of handmade picnic tables and cords of wood that the couple drives in from Texas quarterly, it was just past 1:30pm on Saturday that the first visit in over a year was paid to a place where authenticity means using no fillers, injections or preservatives, the Meats all sourced from good purveyors and simply rubbed down before cooking with Salt, Pepper, Paprika and Celery Seed.
Greeted by Natalia once again, Big B himself arriving later after one of the restaurant’s growing number of catering gigs, it was with deference to the kitchen as to what was fresh that nearly every Meat and side was tasted, the Tri-Tip, Turkey and Lean Brisket all targeting health-conscious consumers and performing better than one might ever have guessed with plenty of moisture and a good smoke-ring building up both along the edges and deep into the flesh.
Enjoying trays as they were presented, the youngster in the group quite taken by Baby Back Ribs that pull straight from the Bone with fat rendered into a slightly caramelized ‘skin,’ those fancying sauce on their Meats will be happy to know that Big B’s makes three-styles daily, the standard BBQ less sweet than those found elsewhere in town with a good bit of smoke while the Extra Hot features Ghost Peppers for some extra kick, the Carolina Sauce not tasted due to a personal aversion to Mustard.
Speaking of Mustard, fans the flavor are encouraged to check out Big B’s housemade Potato Salad that takes a decidedly German approach while those looking for something a little lighter will be well-served by creamy Coleslaw or vegetal Pasta Salad, the Mac n’ Cheese unfortunately in need of a bit of Salt while the BBQ Beans with bits of Meat, Hand-cut Fries and Creamed Corn are all textbook backyard Barbeque sides.
Doing right by offering Pickles, Peppers, Raw Onions and White Bread, all ubiquitous and complimentary with smoked Meat throughout the South, those familiar with Austin or Dallas will realize no one really goes there for Pulled Pork and although Big B’s is better than most found in the area the real money is in their reference-standard Smoked Chicken, Beef Rib and Fatty Brisket, the former moist and tender with or without Skin while the later each achieve a good char and great texture, though the thick bark of the Brisket is trimmed in the kitchen unless specifically requested otherwise.
Offering a Coke Re-Mix machine, bottles and taps of Beer including Shiner Bock and Sweet or Unsweetened Tea depending on one’s preference, those craving Big B’s Peach Cobbler will unfortunately find it temporarily retired and replaced by Pies and Cakes from Great Buns Bakery, each $3.99 wedge served in a generous portion and constructed to Big B’s specifications with the Pecan Pie quite sweet thanks to a thick jam layer while both Lemon and Chocolate Cake are far more subtle with good density and proper balance between the spongy base and drizzled Frosting.
FOUR AND A HALF STARS: In many ways benefitted by the “Big Fish in a Small Pond” phenomenon, Las Vegas’ Barbeque scene notoriously bad for years and only now beginning to show some signs of life, Big B’s nonetheless typifies doing things right, the Texas-standards all on-point while less commonly offered Meats and Sides are all equally worth seeking out in an environment that is warm and welcoming.
AVOID: Macaroni and Cheese is done better elsewhere while the Pecan Pie is more like that found in Georgia than ‘Texas Style’ where the Corn Syrup-base is thinner with Nuts layered and penetrating deeper.
TIP: Offering Catering gigs, either via traveling smoker or by delivery, those interested should contact the restaurant for a variety of packages suitable for any budget.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Dutch Crunch Roll with Spicy Tomato Jam, Eggs, Avocado, Bacon
French Country Ricotta Toast with Nectarine, Cherry, Pistachio, Mint
Cheese Pizza with Caputo new Americana Flour
Fried Churro French Toast Sticks with Raspberry Compote and Dulce de Leche
Pina Colada French Toast with Banana Pudding Custard, Pineapple, Whipped Cream and Cherries
French Country Mushroom Toast with White Bean-Mushroom Hummus, Wild Arugula, Poached Egg and Red Pepper
Although Metro Pizza has long been the flag-bearer for Las Vegas’ now-internationally relevant Pizza scene only select locals are aware of Lulu’s Bread and Breakfast, the cozy dining nook attached to Metro’s Skypointe Drive location run by Chris Decker.
Originally visited as a tourist in 2013 and again in August 2015, the intervening months and rise of Instagram seeing the Chef’s @everythingbutanchovies account become a test-kitchen and showcase for ideas that only a few lucky people besides Chris ever get to taste, it was with the goal of understanding exactly what lies ahead that two diners sat down Saturday morning, a five-course tasting very encouraging should any of these dishes eventually see the light day.
No stranger to the space itself, a pair of educational Pizza courses hosted by the legendary John Arena taking place within the counter-order kitchen since the last daytime visit to Lulu’s, it was moments after entry that the Binghamton New York native offered his greetings, an early morning of deliveries to DTLV spots like Vesta already completed and a full day on the line yet to come.
Still featuring many of the same Pastries, Benedicts and staff members as last time, an elderly woman prone to calling everyone ‘baby’ or ‘honey’ adding a homey sort of charm to Lulu’s ever since the beginning, it was with water poured that ten minutes passed before the meal got started, Chris’ daily inspiration a sweet Dutch Crunch Roll with crackling Rice Flour playing well off fluffy Eggs, smashed Avocado and Tomato Jam plus two strips of Bacon.
Always working with new recipes, the Bread selection ranging from Pretzel to Semolina to Sourdough depending on the day, course two saw Lulu’s French Country Loaf sliced, toasted and topped with Ricotta Cheese, fresh Fruit and crumbled Pistachios, Nectarines and Cherries at the peak of freshness playing well off torn Mint with John Arena subsequently making an appearance of his own carrying two slices of crispy Cheese Pizza created with Caputo’s new autolysing Flour.
Stating that in its final form the Ricotta Toast would feature housemade Cheese it was here that Chef Decker continued to move from savory to sweet, the Churro French Toast presented in a Jenga-style configuration of Deep-fried Bread topped with Cinnamon Sugar and Dulce de Leche alongside intense Raspberry Compote every bit as good as it sounds while the Pina Colada French Toast was an elegant Dessert-for-Breakfast sort of dish featuring buttery Brioche completely saturated with Banana Pudding beneath a ring of Pineapple next to Whipped Cream, Toasted Coconut and Maraschino Cherries for garnish.
Opting to finish up savory, though plenty of Pastries were still available should more have been desired, it was once again on toasted French Country Loaf that Chris sent out two slices topped in White Bean Hummus and Roasted Mushrooms, the flavors robust and woodsy with a bit of heat added by Red Pepper Flake and all of it coming together nicely as carried by a poached Egg Yolk.
FOUR AND A HALF STARS (AS SERVED): Basing an appraisal entirely on concept dishes is never ‘fair’, but be that as it may Chris and John continue to exemplify the sort of work ethic it takes to be successful in 2017, a constant desire to learn and improve both technique and product hopefully soon to see Lulu’s Bread and Breakfast move past being a good local spot and live up to its potential as a ‘destination’ for Breakfast and Lunch.
RECOMMENDED: Pina Colada French Toast, Mushroom Toast, Dutch Crunch Roll.
AVOID: Not a deal-breaker, but the French Toast Sticks were touch oily.
TIP: 7a-4p daily.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Suffice it to say that with their website listing of $9 Cupcakes and an ‘about us’ section beginning with “I’m a paragraph. Click here to add your own text and edit me. It’s easy” CreamBerry is not doing itself any favors in terms of marketing, yet when only one Dessert at The Black Sheep left diners craving something else sweet a 5 minute drive saw the small store across South Rainbow from Gelatology fairly busy, all but one table full and a steady flow of traffic keeping the youngsters behind the counter moving.
Originally opened in November of 2016, the original idea of Ice Cream, Smoothies and Acai Bowls evolving with time to include Hong Kong Egg Waffles, Honey Toast and Macarons plus Shave Ice, Shakes and Scoops of Ice Cream imported from California, guests visiting CreamBerry will immediately be struck by just how cute the place is, fluffy clouds suspended from the ceiling and a wall-full of cartoon penguins frolicking on a sprinkle covered landscape with their friends.
Offering a wall-based menu as well as laminated cards, a small section of Hello Kitty bags and Anime Keychains also available for purchase, it was with Michael Bublé’s Christmas album playing (in August) that patrons spent a few moments contemplating choices before stepping up to the counter where a young woman took orders in between toasting, topping and scooping, the quoted wait time of ‘about fifteen minutes’ in reality turning out to be less than ten.
Spending just over $21 on an order of six items including tax and tip, two of those dishes fairly labor intensive and cheaper than elsewhere in town, it was with a trio of character Macarons that the tasting got started and although the two-bite Cookies aren’t the best in terms of texture with the Shell a bit too chewy the flavors are all on-point, the extra-sweet Cotton Candy almost disturbingly so.
Offering several employee-created concoctions for the Snow Fluff, Toast Boxes and Penguin Puff Waffles with the option also available for guests to customize as they like, it was after a few other orders were completed that both Toast and Waffle were served simultaneously, the “Cookie Monster” Toast featuring a thick slice of Bread soaked in Butter beneath a big scoop of Cookes & Cream Ice Cream plus Condensed Milk, crushed Oreos and Chocolate Sauce every bit as decadent as it reads while the Waffle curled in a cup was subtly sweet and quite light with Purple Yam Ice Cream drizzled in Caramel and Graham Cracker Crumbs.
THREE STARS: Well priced for what it is, but in reality more ‘cute’ than it is ‘craft,’ CreamBerry is a fun little spot for a now-and-again treat but certainly not a destination with similar choices available up and down Spring Mountain Road and several more interesting spots available in the growing food scene on South Rainbow Boulevard.
RECOMMENDED: Penguin Puff Waffle.
AVOID: None of it was particularly bad, just that better Honey Toast and Macarons can be found elsewhere.
TIP: Social Media Check-ins yield 5-10% off total order.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Chocolate Tres Leches – Chocolate Sponge Cake, Chocolate Nest, Mint, White Chocolate Milk Sauce, Vietnamese Coffee Cream
“Oh, yeah, where SkinnyFats is, right?” was the first reaction to a rumor that one of the Las Vegas’ best new Restaurants had opened on Warm Springs Road while attention was focused on traveling outside city limits, yet after doing a bit of investigation the rumors quickly found confirmation in the respected palates of Friends and Chefs repeatedly stating that Chef Jamie Tran was turning out Strip-quality Cuisine at a fraction of the price inside a small kitchen at The Black Sheep.
Officially opened on May 16th inside a former Poke place, the constant turnover of Sin City’s dining scene making such a thing no surprise, The Black Sheep is part-owned and operated by Boulud and Batali veteran Andrew Hooper who brought on his young Chef from the now closed db Brasserie to reinvent an area long suffering for something of interest, the concept largely Vietnamese American with a ‘Comfort Food’ focus but a lot of classic French technique.
Currently open only for dinner, though Mr. Hooper confirms that his charismatic Chef arrives as early as 9:00am to begin preparation in a kitchen that is ‘no more than 350 square feet,’ The Black Sheep follows a model similar to Dan Krohmer’s Other Mama in that the menu is well-culled and focused while the Bar Program rivals Strip-based Mixology for pennies on the dollar, the foamy “La Flama Blanca” with subdued spice and citrus in a Shochu base already a hit at just $9 while “The Louisville Sweet Peach” goes even more artisan with the Bourbon infused with Mint in-house and the Peach Liqueur likewise smoked on the premises.
Still doing the 10+ hour a day routine with a smile on her face, years working with Vincent Pouessel at Aureole and then in the final days of Daniel Boulud’s latest Las Vegas failure elevating the Vietnamese recipes learned from her mother to a level that makes them both elegant and accessible, it was largely from Chef Tran’s hand that the part self-selected and part-suggested menu was served, a plate of puffed Beef Tendons with Togarashi crave-worthy and nicely spiced despite getting a little soggy beneath the Chili Lime Sauce while the housemade Bao and Pork Sausage ‘Sliders’ reinvent a stale idea by way of an umami-fest featuring Crispy Shallots, a sunny-side Quail Egg and Jalapeno Aioli.
Playing a great soundtrack throughout the meal, everything from the xx and Vampire Weekend intermixed with Led Zeppelin and The Doors amidst a sleek interior featuring organic flourishes and a wide panorama of a field filled with Sheep, plates three and four were suggested by Chef Tran as two of her favorites, the Vietnamese Imperial Rolls improving on traditional Spring Rolls by way of locally sourced Vegetables pickled in House and a crispy skin that plays well off the slightly funky center while her Ahi Tuna Tartare takes no shortcuts with snappy pieces of Flesh lightly kissed by housemade Citrus-Chile Oil on Rice Crisps.
Separating appetizers from entrees with a Salad, the ‘grilled’ Peaches unfortunately still a bit too firm and not at all smoky while the Prickly Pear Dressing overwhelmed the rest, those who don’t fear a bit of fat are strongly encourage to order Jamie’s Braised Pork Belly that deconstructs the idea of Porchetta by presenting the skin as a detached Chicharone atop Forbidden Rice, tender Mushrooms and Mustard Greens as good as anything you’ll find down South.
Consistently playing with textures throughout the meal, no two bites ever the same, it was on Andrew’s advice that savories concluded with The Black Sheep’s Short Rib that puts fork-tender Beef at the center of garden fresh Ratatouille with Yucca Dumplings and Crispy Roots on top, the restaurant’s lone dessert taking a similar approach with Dark Chocolate Sponge Cake thoroughly soaked in White Chocolate Milk beneath Fresh Mint and a Chocolate Candy Nest.
FOUR STARS: Setting aside the hype, both on-strip and off, and focusing solely on what educated diners have been saying all along about Las Vegas’ improving culinary scene The Black Sheep is not only a local gem, but the first restaurant since Other Mama to try something really different in an area previously sort of boring. Pleasantly decorated and as good for a solo bite at the Bar as it is for a meal with friends Chef Tran’s time at DB and Aureole has clearly given her the confidence and dedication to pull off complex plates fusing Vietnamese Roots to French Technique and aside from a few small issues the plates are bold yet nuanced at a great price for what is provided.
RECOMMENDED: Vietnamese Imperial Rolls, Bao Sliders, Braised Duroc Pork Belly, Chocolate Tres Leches.
AVOID: The Beef Crisps would be better off with the sauce on the side or with an emulsification or foam to prevent them from getting soggy while the Peach Salad needs less dressing and more smoke. Also, only one dessert at 3 months in is sort of weak.
TIP: Open Daily 5pm to 11pm. @blacksheepvegas on Social Media.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Salade de Homard – Melon Granite, Almond Milk, Raw Almonds, Lobster Tartare
Le Jardin de Printemps – English Peas, Tendrils, Garbanzo Beans, Socca, Blossoms, Wild Strawberry Mist
Pâtes de Foie Gras – Foie Gras Ravioli, Corn, Basil, Pine Nuts
Le Foie Gras Flambe aux Sureaux – St. Germain Flambeed Foie Gras, Sesame, Tapioca, Elderflower Gastrique
Loup de mer – Sea Bass, Squid Ink, Brandade, Garden Herbs
Le Joue de Veau – Braised Veal Cheek, Kohlrabi, Porcini, Chive Blossoms
Le Pre-Dessert Pineapple and Laveder “Explosion”, Cacao Butter
Glace au Chocolat Blanc – Lemon Curd, Crumble
Double Espresso – Ice
Soufflé au Chocolat – Vanilla Bean Ice Cream
Les Mignardises – Chocolate Macaron, Raspberry Macaron, Lemon Macaron, Caramel Macaron, Raspberry Pate de Fruit, Strawberry Marshmallow
Take Home Chocolates
With under two-dozen tables and a guest list that remains constantly full Le Cirque at Bellagio has always been one of the city’s most exclusive dining experiences, but having truly come into its own since Wilfried Bergerhausen took the helm in late 2014 the restaurant now meets all the requirements of a ‘destination,’ the cuisine distinct and expressive while service, setting and value remain unsurpassed.
Rapidly approaching nineteen years old and managed almost every day since opening by Ivo Angelov, his charming manner and uncanny knack for recalling guests in a city of constant change often seeing travelers book their next visit even before the current meal is over, it was on Saturday night that two diners once again took seats at the semi-circular bar located in the foyer, a perfect place to see all the night’s comings and goings while also meeting with guests from near and far.
Planning this visit sort of last minute, recent travel for both the Chef and GM seeing minds refreshed and preparing for a busy Las Vegas Autumn, it was once again with Carte Blanche to the kitchen that the evening ensued, two new Cocktails enjoyed along with the classic Framboise each proving quite memorable, the Roland Garros juicy but spirit forward while Curious George comes across a bit heated thanks to the rim but smooth and citrusy on the finish.
Using napkins as place settings at the bar, the circus theme still present by way of the big top and Bread plates soon to be filled with five great choices including buttery Brioche and warm White Chocolate Coffee Bread that remains one of the city’s best complimentary Carbohydrates, it was from a laser-cut Egg that guests were invited to fish the flavors of Caviar, Cucumber and Chamomile, the natural sweetness of Carrot Custard creating an elegant layering effect much as the icy Melon Granite did in an off-menu concept riffing on Sirio Maccioni’s classic Lobster Salad.
Continuing to excel in terms of subtle flavors and hidden textures, the plating of newer dishes as elegant as anything one might see in Copenhagen or Southern France, Chef Bergerhausen’s “Secret Garden” sees a Tahini base built upon with freshly shucked Peas and crispy Bread in a tangle of Vines and Flowers, each bite a little different than the last and building from beginning to end as a pleasant lead-in to another concept dish of tiny handmade Ravioli filled with Duck Liver in a pool of steeped Corn and Pine Nuts with Basil Oil.
Happy to see the previous menu’s Foie Gras dish has not changed, “Le Foie Gras Flambe aux Sureaux” presenting a meaty Steak cooked tender in Elderflower Liquor and topped in crispy grains, course six was described by Wilfried as ‘inspired by the plate,’ and although the Salt Cod sidecar originally captured attention thanks to its brine balanced by fresh Herbs the Seabass painted black with Squid Ink was no less impressive, bites flaking off effortlessly with plenty of moisture and as perfect a piece of Fish as one will find today in Sin City.
Understandably seeing the previous jewel-box Veal temporarily retired, the comparatively low quality of Truffles at this time of year making a seasonal update appropriate, Le Cirque’s current Veal Cheek is served beneath shaved Kohlrabi with Porcini Mushrooms in a rich Demi, the sauce every bit as good as in the past with Chive Blossoms adding a subtle aromatic component that was quickly washed away by the one-bite Pineapple Pre-Dessert.
Still lacking a proper pastry Chef, an issue entirely related to kitchen space that has seen the same classics offered in one form or another for nearly two years, Chef Bergerhausen graciously opted to go off-menu once more with White Chocolate Ice Cream served atop Lemon Curd and buttery Streusel before ending the night in Mignardises and Le Cirque’s peerless Chocolate Soufflé, the Red Leather box joining a growing collection after its Dark Chocolate contents were devoured during a trip to the Bellagio Conservatory Garden.
FIVE STARS: A truly singular experience in a city of same-same Le Cirque continues to improve with each visit, the service team as familiar as ever and all the better for it while Chef Bergerhausen, at the ripe old age of thirty, continues to innovate and refine his skills as the longest tenured toque at any of the city’s top-tier French Restaurants.
RECOMMENDED: Roland Garros, Le Jardin de Printemps, Loup de mer, Le Joue de Veau, Soufflé au Chocolat.
AVOID: N/A.
TIP: Dark on Monday, Reservations strongly encouraged 5p-10p otherwise. Truffle Season coming soon.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Jive Turkey – Oven Roasted Turkey, Stuffing, Mashed Potatoes, Corn on the Cob, Cranberry Sauce, Gravy
Italian Chick-en Vegas – Hand Breaded Chicken Cutlet, Housemade Marinara, Melted Mozzarella
Walk o’ Shame – Triple Decker Cinnamon French Toast, Fried Eggs, Sausage Patties, Bacon, Grilled Ham, American Cheese, Cream Cheese, Hash Browns, Powdered Sugar, Syrup and a Fruit Cocktail
Black Chip Cannoli – Chocolate Dipped with Mascarpone and Dark Chocolate Chips
Originally titled Seven Sinful Subs, but since expanding that idea to a few more sandwiches and dropping the number, Vic Vegas’ Sinful Subs on Maryland Parkway originally opened its doors just under one year ago and although a bit tucked away in one of the shopping centers near UNLV a late lunch on Saturday showed the product to be far better than one might guess from the outside signage or website.
Officially located at 4632 South Maryland Parkway, nearby businesses including the expected head shops, a US Post Office and other grab n’ go dining ideas, it was just past 2:00pm that online ordering was accessed by way of the website and perusing the choices with a coupon in hand the decision was made to order three Sandwiches plus one Dessert, the quoted preparation time of forty-five minutes a little hard to believe and a quick call to the restaurant suggesting this was automated, a ten minute drive finding 2/3 of the items already hot, ready and waiting.
Now open for Breakfast six-days a week, the upcoming semester not yet in session and things still fairly quiet, it was with Mötley Crüe’s Kickstart My Heart playing overhead that the store was entered, a lengthy space decorated in flames and pictures of menu choices traversed en route to a counter set next to the kitchen, a trio of servers all pleasant and hard at work slicing Deli-meat, frying Chicken and assembling what would turn out to be several to-go orders plus some food for another duo of dine-in patrons.
Certainly not an upscale spot, the soundtrack next transitioning to Metallica’s Seek and Destroy before some KISS, it was with one Sandwich plated while the rest was boxed to go that a seat along one wall was taken, the “Nosebleed Seats” as good a place as any to tuck into a dastardly combination entitled “Walk o’ Shame” that sees three thick slices of Cinnamon and Custard seared French Toast wrapped around two Eggs, crispy Bacon, Ham, Fennel Sausage, two types of Cheese and Hashbrowns, all of it exactly as ridiculous as it sounds and best eaten disassembled as the whole is really no better or worse than the sum of its parts.
Chuckling at the Fruit Cocktail served alongside the Sandwich, a variety of Chips or upgraded sides such as Macaroni and Cheese offered alongside other Sandwiches, it was with Hot Cheetos packed up for the lady that both the Jive Turkey and Italian Chick-en Vegas were next given a taste while still warm, the former clearly a riff on Capriotti’s famous “The Bobbie” but bettered by way of a toasty Roll, Mashed Potatoes and Gravy plus Cranberry Sauce on the side while the Parm was on par with many local sit-down restaurants thanks to a hand-breaded and fried-to-order Cutlet topped in housemade Marinara and melted Mozzarella.
Admittedly intrigued by The Baller and its housemade Meatballs as well as the bargain New York Breakfast Sandwich on a Kaiser Roll with Coffee and Hashbrowns for just $6 it was instead with Dessert that the meal came to a conclusion, Vic’s family recipe Cannoli a bit disappointing in that it had clearly been pre-filled with some notable sog, though the Chocolate dip and Chips did help a little bit with both flavor and consistency.
THREE AND A HALF STARS: Sort of an overwrought concept, though executed far better than it need be given the location, Sinful Subs offers several unique and hearty Sandwiches as a price that is a bit higher than the Chains but justified by good customer service and far better ingredients, plus the obvious support of a local business.
RECOMMENED: Jive Turkey, Italian Chick-en Vegas.
AVOID: Better Cannoli’s can be found elsewhere, including nearby Cugino’s.
TIP: Currently offering $15 off a $30 purchase coupons on Restaurant.com and online ordering available, though those in a hurry may wish to call instead.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Banger Brewing and Mothership Roasters Single Origin Peru Penachi Cold Brew
Latte with Housemade Vanilla Syrup
Nitro Coffee
Vegan Pocket with “Italian Sausage,” “Egg,” “Mozzarella” and Vegetables
Ham, Jalapeno and Mozzarella Croissant
Crustless Quiche with Spinach, Broccoli and Cheddar
Peachy Keen Peach Pie
Gluten Free Vegan Matcha Orange Blossom Twinkie with Chocolate Drizzle
Vegan Strawberry Tart
Blueberry Lemon Cruffin
Key Lime, White Chocolate and Raspberry Scone
Concord Grape and Lavender Galette
Milk Chocolate, Butterscotch, Pecan Rye Cookie
Brownie
Now in the business for over two years, Chef Beth Ryan-Small having recently taken over the Gluten-free and Vegan baking responsibilities in addition to her ever-inventive prior role, July 2017 saw Juanny Romero and Joshua Walter’s Mothership Coffee Roasters embrace a new challenge, a collaboration with Banger Brewing yielding the 702’s first ready-to-sell Cold Brew.
At this point nothing short of a community staple, the crowd usually thick a half-hour after opening and all the best Pastries sold out long before closing each day, it was on Saturday morning that two diners made the twenty-five minute drive from central Vegas down to 2708 North Green Valley Parkway in Henderson, both Josh and Chef Beth present and happy to talk about new products including the black cans of Coffee and some of the most delicious Baked Goods offered yet.
In all ways a world-class operation despite its small size, the single origin Beans roasted on-site and served as everything from Espresso Shots and Pour-Overs to Lattes with housemade Vanilla Syrup or “Hopped-up” Nitro Cold Brew, it was with palpable passion that Josh talked about the new cans featuring nothing more than Coffee and Water, the decision to light-roast and not carbonate making the product extremely palate friendly without a lot of acid that should see them well received whether as a morning jump-start, mid-day pick-me-up or even straight from an ice chest with food in the same way one might enjoy Beer during a cookout.
At this point turning attention to Pastries, just a little over five months between visits seeing nearly the entire case swapped out for new choices with one returning favorite joining the mix by way of an exceptional Concord Grape and Lavender Galette, it was while chatting with Beth that two restriction-free diners were more than a little surprised by a Vegan Pocket with “Italian Sausage, Egg, and Mozzarella,” the sweating of two types of Peppers preventing them from overwhelming Fennel and Sundried Tomatoes while the recently redone Twinkie replaced a previously chunky filling with something smooth and rich with the Cake itself lightly sweet, moist and fragrant.
Next challenging anyone to tell the difference between Vegan and not with a Strawberry Tart, the hand-formed crust welled up and crisp around nothing more than fresh Berries from California reduced with a bit of Sugar, those looking for something a bit more substantial would be well advised to invest $4 in a “Peachy Keen” Pie that is large enough to be shared, the insides strewn in thin slices of White Peach without any sticky glaze and the texture of both the Fruit and Shell all the better for it.
Moving savory to sweet and back, the Croissant a little less proofed than would be ideal but still appetizing with melted Mozzarella playing well off salty Ham and Jalapenos, Egg enthusiasts will likely enjoy a crustless Quiche currently featuring Spinach and Broccoli while fans of Chef Ryan-Small’s Scones will be happy to see the Chili, Cheese and Onion version has not gone anywhere, though it has been joined by a sweet counterpart decorated in Key Lime, melted White Chocolate and housemade Raspberry Jam.
Intentionally saving Chocolate for last, the Rye Cookie now incorporating Butterscotch into the mix with great results, those looking for something truly decadent would be well served to visit around 10:30am when Brownies are set but still warm, the top layer crisp and crackling atop thick Ganache and a soft Cake base…though visiting so late may see Mothership already sold out of their recently launched Blueberry and Lemon Curd Cruffin that leaves Mr. Holmes original in the dust.
FIVE STARS: While denizens of DTLV would like the city to believe jam Vesta or Makers and Finders have somehow made Las Vegas a Coffee City the fact remains that Juanny and Josh have been setting the standard for years, Mothership’s Roasts only continuing to get better over time and the Pastry program from Chef Ryan-small on a whole different level from any American bakery in town.
Samples: Apple Fritter, Ube Oreo, Strawberry n’ Cream, Lemon Pound Cake, Green Tea Yuzu, S’mores with Pecans, Amoretti Cookie, Guava Cheesecake, Mango
Green Tea Yuzu Single
Apple Fritter and S’mores with Pecans Single
Banana Bread
Oatmeal Raisin Cranberry Cookie
With whispers now becoming confirmed that Desyree Alberganti will soon be taking her talents to South…Bend where she will rejoin family after a job change it seems as though time is limited to sample some of the best Gelato served in the United States, though an unknown ‘last day of service’ and promises from the Chef that she will be training new owners prior to her departure gives one reason to hope, even though her smile and charming manner will certainly be missed.
Quickly approaching the second anniversary of a spot that made it cool to open on South Rainbow below the 215, though Desyree’s time at Art of Flavors cannot be forgotten as subsequent ownership fell flat within a year, it was Friday night after dinner that a visit was paid to the tiny shop pitching unique flavors every single day of the week, the beloved owner offering taste after tastes to guests both new and old just as she has from the very beginning.
Amongst the most enticing Instagram accounts in Las Vegas, her videos of each day’s flavors set to a catchy beat always offering at least three reasons why it would be good to stop by, those visiting on Friday were invited to experience flavors including brilliant purple Ube Oreo and favorites like Mango Sorbet alongside new ideas like ‘My S’mores’ with housemade Marshmallows amidst a smooth Chocolate Base given texture by Graham Crackers and a spot-on rendition of Amoretti Cookie, the Green Tea and Yuzu fragrant and light without tasting ‘grassy’ while the Apple Fritter picked up on both the Fruit and Yeast notes of the real thing without the oiliness that deters many.
Still offering a limited number of baked goods on-site, the folks at Sambalatte apparently soon to be in the market for someone new to stock their shelves, those who used to be sad about cookies only offered in three-packs will be happy to know that both the Chocolate Chip with Toffee and soft Oatmeal Raisin Cranberry Cookies are now available single, the latter perfect with a crisp rim and soft center while the Banana Bread stored beneath glass is rich and moist both at the point of purchase and still the morning after.
FIVE STARS: Although one does wonder how the store will fare after Las Vegas’ brightest off-Strip stars departs the fact of the matter is that Gelatology remains one of the best Gelato Shops in America today, the creative juices still flowing and flavors as well as textures good enough to warrant a car rental or Uber from the Strip for visitors with a culinary interest.
RECOMMENDED: Apple Fritter, S’mores with Pecans, Ube Oreo, Guava Cheesecake, Banana Bread, Oatmeal Raisin Cranberry Cookie.
AVOID: N/A.
TIP: Gelatology’s 2-year Anniversary is on Sunday 8/13/17 and will feature all sorts of fun including a selection of all-time favorites as voted by fans. @gelatologylv for more.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
