Dona Lulu – Pambazo with Potatoes, Chorizo, Lettuce, Cheese, Sour Cream, Guajillo Chile Sauce
Dona Lulu – Tlayuda Oaxaquena with Carne Asada, Tomato, Avocado, Cheese, Beans, Lettuce, Chicharron
Horchata
Located not far from Tulum Avenue, Parque las Palapas is the main park in downtown Cancun, and although activity peaks after sunset with street vendors and open-air stage performances daytime sees the space busy with locals visiting a collection of stalls offering various Mexican delicacies.
Abutting Cancun’s oldest Catholic church, with pigeons aplenty but no panhandlers on Saturday afternoon, it was after perusing the lineup that three stalls were selected, enough Food for three Americans fresh off a plane tallying less than 360 Pesos ($18USD) including three Beverages.
Beginning at Quesadillas D’Luis, a kitchen consisting of four women at the park’s rightmost border, it is safe to forget everything thought true of Quesadillas stateside, these nearly twice the size with house-braised Meats and local Cheese while Empanadas are quick-fried and topped with Crema around a molten center.
Off to an excellent start, with Salsas and Condiments on the side, stop two consisted of Suadero and Chorizo at Los Taquitos Mexicanos, the ten minutes preparation yielding piping hot Meat ready to be topped as desired, and chopped Chorizo generally outperforming Suadero that was dry and underseasoned.
Moving finally to the far-left of Restaurant Row, a place titled Dona Lulu, it is here that Oaxacan Food takes center stage, the 35-Peso Pambazo well sauced with freshly-prepared Papas con Chorizo and the Tlayuda oversized with plenty of tender Asada playing off crispy bits of Skin, Cheese, Beans and Vegetables.
Ham & Fig Panini – Ham, Smoked Vermont Cheddar, Dijon Mustard, Fig Jam, Ciabatta Bread
Biscuits – Orange Blossom Butter, Homemade Strawberry Balsamic Jam
Lemon Blueberry Sugar Cookie
Triple Chocolate Chip Cookie
Key Lime Raspberry Scone
Vegan Strawberry Lemonade Scone
Baked Crème Brulee French Toast – Cinnamon Crumble, Maple Syrup, Orange Blossom Butter
Strawberry Cheesecake Poptart
Churro Poptart
Cheesecake
Opened in July 2019 with a promise of single origin Beans and extraordinary service The Coffee Class has certainly found its audience, new record numbers that occur daily attesting to the quality of Kyle Cunningham’s concept
A passion project for the local real estate professional, who can frequently be found on-site educating staff and greeting customers, it is in consultation with Chef Beth Ryan-Small that the cozy yet upscale space seeks to give guests an all-day experience, or in this case top-notch delivery.
Coordinated and delivered by Chef Ryan-Small, timely arrival with all the necessary serviceware worthy of mention for a small Restaurant new to catering, it was not long before an abundance of trays were arranged, two styles of Poptart immediately drawing eyes and the “better” a toss-up between Cinnamon-Sugar crusted Churro or Strawberry Cheesecake featuring Beth’s world-class recipe.
Next taking a look at two types of Scones, the first a reference-standard Key Lime version with Butter and Raspberry Jam, those eschewing Animal-products will be happy to know The Coffee Class also offers a pretty impressive Vegan version topping its lemony crumb with Strawberries.
Continuing on with Sandwiches, a half-dozen pressed-Paninis currently highlighted by Ham and Fig, it is actually smoked Cheddar that truly raises the bar while grilled Chicken gets an upgrade from housemade Tomato Jam and Garlic-Herb Butter.
Lightening lunch with Fruit, Salad and Avocado Toast, but certainly not forgetting laminated and flaky Buttermilk Biscuits, suffice it to say The Coffee Class’ French Toast continues to offer “destination-worthy” decadence thanks to Crème Brulee thoroughly saturating buttery Brioche while Beth’s Triple Chocolate Chip Cookie is equally worth traveling across town for.
N/A: Making it blog policy to not ‘rate’ places based on catering alone, this first lunch from The Coffee Class was unequivocally successful from Ingredients and presentation to cost and timeliness – exactly as one would hope from what might just be the city’s best under-the-radar experience.
Historically the first Restaurant ever tapped to #supportlocal with lunch at the office, and reprising their catering role several times since, it was on Monday that Naked City Pizza delivered from the Blue Diamond Road “Express” location approximately ten minutes away.
The eleventh time bringing Christopher and Michael Palmeri’s Pizza Shop off-site, indoor dining recently reopening brand-wide, it was minutes prior to 11:30am that Michael arrived with a glut of items, easily enough Food for twice the number of guests with plenty of leftovers for later.
Presenting everything temperature appropriate with PPE to assure customer safety, it was not long before first-shift lunchers called dibs on Slices, Cup n’ Char Pepperoni predictably proving popular atop melted Mozzarella and housemade Sauce with plenty of Herbs, as did Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives famous Guinea Pie featuring White Garlic Sauce and Grandma Palmeri’s Meatballs.
Slinging Sin City’s best Chicken Wings, a few dozen devoured in minutes, Entrees included Buffalo-famous Chicken Finger Subs served alongside hand-cut Fries plus daily-special Banana Peppers stuffed and topped with Garlic Cream Sauce, Breadcrumbs and a quartet of melted Cheeses.
Lightening the load with a big Chop Salad, another delightful daily item, slices continued with the shop’s eponymous Pizza while Dessert consisted of filled-to-order Cannoli competing for stomach capacity with Naked City’s Buffalo 22 Pizza slicked in Hot Honey.
N/A: Making it blog policy to not ‘rate’ places based on catering alone there is a reason Naked City Pizza has been serving Sin City for over a decade, and so long as Christopher and Michael continue to work as hard as they always have there is little doubt that any order will delight a crowd whether at the Shop or delivered.
Some say the best Restaurants are those that a guest wants to revisit even before leaving, and over the course of twenty-five meals served across six years Bardot Brasserie has redefined “the best,” not only in terms of Food but setting and service that all continue to shine under the direction of Chef Nick Dugan.
Reemerging in the decline of COVID-19, though staff remain adorned in PPE, it was at 12:30pm Saturday that Aria’s second floor was found busy, a familiar front-of-house greeting nine diners who were seated comfortably at a table in the center of the room.
Nearly full as mask mandates have lessened, no small feat in a city with such diversity of options, it was with confirmation of no allergies or intolerances that Carte Blanche was deferred to a team that has earned unwavering trust, The Strip’s best Baguette predictably arriving first – warm and crunchy with soft Salted Butter on the side.
Now settled into Chef Dugan’s style, time spent with Gavin Kaysen at Bellecour before joining Michael Mina seeing an almost seamless transition from Chef Josh Smith’s new-French classics, course one featured a familiar trio of shared Appetizers, Nick’s riff on Escargots en Croute essentially a Pot Pie with Snails cooked in herbaceous green Sauce while Deviled Eggs and House-smoked Salmon each found themselves upgraded by a dollop of Osetra Caviar.
Continuing with three additional appetizers, an all-new take on Foie Gras featuring sweet Wine plus ground-to-order Tartare that has wowed diners since day one for good reason, if there is any dish that defined Josh’s ability to rethink tradition it was Bardot’s King Crab & Endive Caesar which remains both crisp and refreshing despite its decidedly luxurious Accouterments.
Slightly retooling Bardot’s Breakfast Sandwich, its housemade Sausage and English Muffin still outpacing any other in town, Brunch continued with Bardot’s oft-overlooked Hunter’s Waffle and Chef Nick’s Dungeness Benedict featuring Orange-Yolk Eggs and Sauce Choron in a Puff Pastry basket.
Not about to miss the famous French Toast, a thick wedge arriving with its plus-size quenelle of Vanilla Cream and Almond Brittle plus Foie Gras, those who previously thought Bardot’s Macaron “too rich” will be thrilled to find it lightened by way of Gianduja Chocolate and a bit of Citrus while the Crème Breule and Mille Feuille have reverted to classic Vanilla but still maintain their reference-standard textures.
Adding two more Desserts to the menu, tableside presentations making a glorious return by way of Baked Alaska featuring the flavors of Strawberries and Banana flambeed in Cognac, be sure to add Bardot’s Pot de Crème to any list of *best* Butterscotch Pudding thanks to a silky base lent texture by Caramel Corn and a Chocolate Palmier.
FIVE STARS: Having repeatedly challenged fellow gourmands to name a better Bistro, Brasserie or Café in North America than Bardot none have yet stood up to the task, and while some may believe that a Restaurant doing big volume cannot possibly compete with a place that seats fifty I’ll simply say I’ve done the legwork and this one does.
RECOMMENDED: Escargots en Croute, King Crab & Endive Caesar, Foie Gras Torchon, Dungeness Crab Benedict, Hunter’s Waffle, Bardot Breakfast Sandwich, French Toast, Mille Feuille, Chocolate Macaron, Butterscotch Pot de Crème.
AVOID: N/A.
TIP: Follow @nrdugan or @bardot_lv for daily specials.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Self-appointed “The Best Restaurant in the Entire Galactic System,” this writer’s previous experiences tell a different story of SkinnyFATS – one of overpriced Food, piss-poor catering and dismissive ownership that seems to be improving thanks to the recent involvement of Graffiti Bao’s Marc Marrone.
Debuted during summer 2013 right here in Las Vegas, and since expanding via franchising to Texas as well as Utah, SkinnyFATS promises guests an opportunity to “Live Healthy, Live Happy,” every item on the menu’s left half under 600 kcals while those on the right are more hearty.
Still a work-in-progress as relates to Chef Marrone’s ideas, owner Reed Slobusky’s Salads, Cookies and Sandwiches still comprising much of the menu, it was from the hands of PPE-=adorned staff that nine items were delivered, “Cups” successfully riffing on Thai flavors and delightfully light while an off-menu Burrata Salad found creamy Cheese juxtaposing gently cooked Broccolini, Pistachios and seasonal Citrus.
Next revisiting “Curry Be Happy,” another Thai-inspired idea offering familiar flavors balancing sweetness and spice, those familiar with Chef Marrone’s work at Locale Italian Kitchen will be unsurprised that Vegetarian Arancini titled “Balls” are exemplary while “CauliFIRE” takes on Buffalo Chicken sans Meat.
Keeping things simple with SkinnyFATS “The Classic” Burger, half a pound of good Beef on a soft Bun with traditional accoutrements, it was after a handful of Fries that the soon-to-debut Katsu Sandwich sought feedback – outstanding Pork and Bread but too much Mayo – before finishing up with texturally-flawless Banana Pudding.
N/A: Making it blog policy to not ‘rate’ places based on catering alone, Chef Marc Marrone’s involvement at SkinnyFATS adds yet another concept to his cadre, and although the menu will continue to evolve there is no doubt every aspect of the Restaurant will benefit from the Graffiti Bao team’s skills and diligence.
RECOMMENDED: Curry Be Happy, Balls, Banana Pudding.
AVOID: N/A.
TIP: See the website for current offerings, @eatskinnyfats on Social Media for Specials.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Debuted with The Hard Rock Hotel & Casino’s rebranding as Virgin Hotels Las Vegas ONE Steakhouse is itself a retooling, but unlike the property which embraces airline aesthetics the descendants of Morton’s have converted MB|Steak into an elegant 9,000-square-foot space featuring a stunning glass centerpiece plus elegant artistic flourishes to compliment a sturdy wood dining room.
Located just off the gaming floor, and toqued by Chef Patrick Anthony Munster, it was 6:00pm Tuesday that an LED-lit lounge was found just getting busy, the main room soon approximately half-full including a nine-top happy to defer their order to ONE’s recommendations.
Following a traditional route in offering Appetizers, Steaks, Entrees and Sides, several holdovers from MB|Steak offered as first courses, it was with Cocktails and Wine poured that bread arrived, Mickey Harden’s housemade Focaccia with caramelized Cheddar delightfully unchanged and wonderful on its own, though better with herbed Butter.
Not going too far left of center in the offerings, an elongated plate of Spanish Octopus with Broccolini and Tomatoes offering good char and great flavor arriving next, those looking for something more decadent would be well advised to request Chef Munster’s “Grilled Maple-Glazed Bacon” with a gently poached Egg while guests favoring something lighter can find it in cured Hamachi, fried Rock Shrimp or Squid.
Also adding two Salads, the Chop sans Shrimp outperforming a ubiquitous Caesar, it was with nothing but a few smears of Dressing left that plates were re-set to prepare for main courses, two Steaks, two Entrees and a quartet of Sides showing the kitchen cooking with fire as both the Porterhouse and Tomahawk featured a good crust and medium-rare center with the later robust enough to stand up against Roasted Chilis reminiscent of Chef Munster’s SW Steakhouse days.
Impressed by both prices and portions, Pasta offering Rock Shrimp bathed in Miso Butter easily shared by two for $42, guests are encouraged not to overlook perfectly cooked Chicken atop Truffle-tinged Pan Jus nor Creamed Spinach with a Poached Egg and stretchy Cheese also perfumed by Tuber melanosporum.
Justifying the price of Lobster Macaroni and Cheese with big chunks of sweet Meat, while Asparagus as well as Potato Au Gratin are competent if unexciting, it should go without saying that any chance to enjoy Dessert from Executive Pastry Chef Mickey Harden is warranted, the all-new Baked Alaska especially for those interested in a tableside show guaranteed to gather every eye in the room.
Going richer for the rest, Cheesecake properly textured and complimented by caramelized Bananas plus Popcorn, it is a bit unexpected that Triple Chocolate Truffle Cake features Mousse rather than a Sponge beneath melted Ganache, though it is no surprise at all that Chef Harden’s multi-layered Carrot Cake remains the best in Las Vegas thanks to thin ribbons of Cream Cheese Frosting and plenty of Baking Spices topped in roasted Pineapple.
FOUR AND A HALF STARS: Acknowledging that ONE Steakhouse never set out to compete with the likes of Jean Georges or Bazaar Meat in terms of price or grandeur the Morton Brothers have nonetheless reinvented an enjoyable experience at Virgin Hotels Las Vegas, and with prices lower than almost any Steakhouse on Las Vegas Boulevard Chefs Munster and Harden are each creating Cuisine that offers substantial variety while the room and service both feel far more intimate than sprawling spaces like SW Steakhouse or CUT.
Beef Hot Links, Jalapeno & Cheese Hot Links, Smoked Turkey
Pecan Pie
Lemon Poppyseed Cake
Chocolate Cake
Open from 11:00am until 9:00pm daily at Suite 110 of 6115 South Fort Apache Road, and Sin City’s best place for Barbecue ever since the original debuted in January 2016, it was just prior to 11:30am that the smell of Big B’s Texas BBQ began to drift down the hallway, staff quick to arrive for what was once again an overabundance of smoked Meat, Dessert and Sides.
Named after its Pit Master, and changing the long-held belief that Las Vegas is not a Barbeque town ever since the original opened in Henderson, Big B’s Texas BBQ features the work of Brian Buechner and Natalia Badzjo, the husband and wife team taking a hands-on approach to every aspect of the operation from build-out to driving in fresh piles of wood as needed from the Lone Star State.
Available for dine-in, take-out, catering and delivery, all presented by staff clad in PPE, it was really no surprise when Macaroni and Cheese as well as Hot Links were quickly depleted, with slices of gooey Pecan Pie or two types of Cake soon to follow.
Texas through and through, the aforementioned wood just one reason why Big B’s Brisket and Turkey outpace growing competition, the choice of lean versus moist generally sees the former go first at this office, though thanks to a deeply penetrating ring of smoke both live up to high standards.
Not about to forget Sin City’s best BBQ Beans, or a large Salad requested by some, suffice it to say Rolls were underutilized with several leftover, not because they aren’t good but more so as a result of the abundance of Cornbread that seems to get better and better with time.
Adding on Creamed Corn, plus recently debuted thick-cut Fried Onions, a second helping of everything proved mandatory, though even for someone with a decidedly large appetite it might be smart to stop a bit short of stuffed next time to avoid wanting an afternoon nap instead of four more hours of work.
N/A: Making it blog policy to not ‘rate’ places based on catering alone it was a disastrous lunch from Famous Dave’s that got the #supportlocal idea going in May of 2018, Big B’s Texas BBQ immediately stepping up and becoming a go-to both then and now with the experience never less than exemplary.
TIP: Now open 11:00am to 9:00pm daily at Suite 110 of 6115 South Fort Apache Road, call (702) 844-8206 for take-out and the city’s best dollar-for-dollar catering value.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Fried Green Tomatoes – Cornmeal Crust, Arugula Salad, Remoulade
Kale Slaw – Shredded Kale Mix, Carrots, Dried Cranberries, Golden Raisins, Creamy Dressing
Water Street Corn – White Sauce, Parmesan Cheese, Ancho Pepper, Green Onion
Goldfish Mac + Cheese – 3 Cheese, Goldfish Cracker Crust
St. Louis Ribs, Pork Belly, Pulled Pork, Pickles, Pickled Onions
10 Hour Brisket, Apple Brined Chicken, Smoked Wings w/ Desert BBQ Dry Rub, White Sauce, Blue Cheese, Pickles, Pickled Onions
Originally announced in 2019, and opened mid-pandemic at the corner of Water Street and Pacific Avenue in Henderson, Biscuits and Bourbon describes its concept as “a social kitchen” featuring “boutique” Barbeque – both proving applicable during a visit on Saturday afternoon.
Locally owned and operated by a group committed to revitalizing Water Street, an area virtually unrecognizable from two years ago thanks to the all-new Lifeguard Arena, it is inside the former Bank of America complex that guests will discover a kitchen currently led by Chef Louis Kirkland, his time at Mable’s inside The Palms paying dividends with better Food at about half the price.
Recently adding eight gaming machines to the bar top, but still a family-friendly affair adjacent Mojave Brewing Co., it is after pleasant greetings at the hostess’ stand that guests are led to a choice of seating options, the vibe akin to DTLV’s Carson Kitchen with exposed ceilings and a soundtrack ranging from Bob Seeger to 90’s Alt-Rock.
Serving three meals from 8am on weekends, or two starting at noon Monday through Friday, it is on a chalkboard near the front that diners will note daily specials, the Restaurant’s eponymous Buttermilk rounds on this day joined by a Smoked Herb and Cheese version with each delicate yet buttery alongside local Honey plus housemade Butter and Jelly.
Predictably offering a wide range of adult Beverages with a focus on Bourbon, though none at this table opted to imbibe, Lunch continued with off-menu Fried Green Tomatoes plus three “Fixins’,” Kale finding a new audience with dried Fruit as Slaw while Street Corn as well as Mac + Cheese are familiar but compelling, the former in particular thanks to subtle-smoky heat.
Next taking a look at the ‘cue, Chef Kirkland’s smartly selected duo of woods giving Biscuits and Bourbon’s Meat a distinctive flavor that isn’t overly smoky, fans of Pork will find no better Ribs in the Valley than these dry-rubbed specimens while thick-cut Belly and vinegary pulled Flesh are also very good.
Also offering Chicken and Beef, a brined half-bird for $14 easily enough to share, be sure not to overlook Smoked Wings from a section of “Small Plates” as they ar arguably the menu’s best item, though the tender 10 Hour Brisket ain’t too shabby thanks to lightly peppered Bark atop a thin layer of translucent Fat.
FOUR AND A HALF STARS: Making good use of an existing property, and tying in nicely with Water Street’s rapid return to glory, Biscuits and Bourbon offers excellent Barbecue not tied to any specific origin and matches it to affable service, a communal environment plus some of the best Biscuits and Sides in town.
RECOMMENDED: Biscuits, Water Street Corn, Goldfish Mac + Cheese, St. Louis Ribs, Pulled Pork, 10 Hour Brisket, Smoked Wings.
AVOID: The online Dessert Menu is inaccurate, and reportedly a work in progress.
TIP: 8a-10p on weekends, 12p-10p weekdays. Follow @bandbonWater on Social for specials.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Founded in Humboldt County California, there is a good chance Food Network fans first heard about Humboldt Sweets on Guy Fieri’s Diners, Drive-ins and Dives, but since late-2019 the Bakery owned by Tammy and Tony Pichulo has called Henderson home after re-opening its doors inside Coronado Canyons Center at the corner of Green Valley and Horizon Ridge Parkway.
Family-owned and operated, Tammy responsible for the recipes with daughter Hannah frequently offering a helping hand, it is amidst COVID-19 restrictions that Humboldt Sweets currently operates from 8:00am until 3:00pm Thursday through Sunday, though early arrival is recommended as more popular items tend to sell out quickly.
Already baking well before sunrise, better-than-average Ingredients and plus-size portions commanding prices that run a bit higher than other like-concepts, small batches combine with classic technique to yield several-dozen choices that change daily, though the now-famous Cinnamon Roll and Caramel Pecan cousin are universally present and worth every cent/calorie thanks to soft spirals sopping with Butter plus or minus Frosting.
Relocated to the Las Vegas suburb as it is Tony’s home town, and making quick fans of locals with everything from Quiche to Candy, additional seasonal treats include airy Pudding and extra-moist Cupcakes topped in handmade Buttercream, plus texturally masterful Cookies that are delicious room-temperature but even better after 10-seconds reheating.
Not a place to count calories, but well-suited for families or friends looking to share something sweet, consider it fortunate if Tammy’s Banana Cake is still available after 10:00am, and speaking of Cake, do not pass on what may just be the Valley’s best Carrot version thanks to bold spices and plenty of Walnuts beneath a thin layer of sweet yet tangy Cream Cheese.
FOUR AND A HALF STARS: Currently operating as take-out only, and just four days a week, folks in Las Vegas proper will need to make a special effort to visit Humboldt Sweets, though based on these eight items (and others prior) the time, cost and calories are justified with high hopes that additional hours will become available soon.
Lo Mein – Roast Pork, Celery, Mushrooms, Bean Sprouts, Red Pepper
Mandarin Orange Duck – Red Onion, Bell Pepper, Orange Zest
Graffiti Burger – Smashed Onion Burger, Cheese, Bacon, Red Leaf Lettuce, Pickled Peppers, Special Sauce, Pickles, Martin’s Potato Bun with Seasoned Crinkle-Cut Fries
Started as a counter-service concept inside T-Mobile Arena, Graffiti Bao has been making itself known to Southwest Las Vegas since September 2019, the opportunity to cater Marc Marrone’s Food in February 2020 going over so well with staff that delivery from 7355 South Buffalo Drive has been requested over twenty times since.
Previously discussing Chef Marrone’s background here, time with Tao Group unequivocally involved in Asian Cuisine capable of satisfying both discerning diners and folks that typically gravitate to Panda Express, it was on-time that a familiar Graffiti Bao employee arrived with everything necessary, professionalism and safety never in question.
Opting for old favorites from a menu that offers far more diversity than its brevity suggests, Crab Rice was predictably the first stop for many, and although the funky Fish Sauce and restrained heat were once again highly praised Graffiti Bao’s Roasted Chicken version has also developed a fan-base thanks to toasted Chiles and bits of crispy Skin.
Onward to Orange Duck, instead of more familiar Chicken, the quality of Graffiti Bao’s sourcing shows well from Protein to Produce, the Restaurant’s eponymous Buns satisfying diners on this day with the Pulp Fiction referencing Royale with Cheese complete with housemade Secret Sauce for dipping.
Neglecting White Rice to save stomach capacity for better things, Lo Mein won out over Basil Chow Fun this time while a tray of Marrone’s Crispy Wings with numbing-heat was welcomed by all who partook.
Finishing with Birthday Dessert from elsewhere, but not before devouring Graffiti Bao’s “Graffiti Burger” with a funky loose-packed Patty, bold Accoutrements and umami-flecked Fries, it was with nearly half the staff packing leftovers that the afternoon passed quickly while trying to decide exactly how many weeks to let pass before catering from Graffiti Bao again.
N/A: Making it blog policy to not ‘rate’ places based on catering alone, Graffiti Bao sets a very high standard in terms of customer service, while every Item across nine orders has been nicely presented, displaying “Fusion” without being compromised and appealing to a broad range of diners.
RECOMMENDED: Royale with Cheese Bao Buns, Chicken Egg Fried Rice, Lo Mein, Mandarin Orange Duck, Graffiti Burger.
AVOID: N/A.
TIP: Southwest location is open Monday through Sunday from 11:00am to 8:30pm, and one can also find a more limited menu at T-Mobile Arena. Follow @GraffitiBao for specials.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Still Las Vegas’ hardest working Chef, two more local concepts plus Utah and Dubai on the way, it was Monday that Marc Marrone’s Gemma Gemma’s Square Pies were ordered, and once again a combination of passion, precision and Ingredient quality was on display from beginning to end.
Officially launched August 6th 2020, online ordering now offered Monday through Sunday for pick-up or delivery from 7355 South Buffalo Drive, Gemma Gemma’s is a tribute to Marrone’s late-grandmother Anita Gemma Marrone while the cartoon Pizzaiolo on each box pays homage to Marc’s father, with whom he grew up making Pizzas as a child.
Citing Gemma Gemma as the person who inspired his culinary career, it is at a price-point similar to that of Graffiti Bao that Marrone has built a menu of Pies, Sandwiches, Salads and Appetizers, everything including Bread made in-house just as it is at Graffiti Bao.
Kicking things off with 6” “Signature Pies,” each built atop 72-hour fermented Dough that eats light with a crispy edge not unlike Detroit-style, Gemma Gemma’s current menu features four varieties customizable to guest preferences, the Vodka Sauce beneath crisp Pepperoni while The Ol’ Sausage and Bianco each balance a hefty allotment of Toppings such that every bite is different while diverse flavors work in harmony.
Also catering a great Chop Salad, spicy Pork and cubes of Cheese dotting fresh Veggies, Garlic Parm Wings come large and meaty like those from Graffiti Bao while $8 Italian “Torpedos” topped with Roast Pork are succulent and well-seasoned amidst their accoutrements on fluffy Hoagie Rolls amicable to soaking up all the Juices.
Adding a special Pesto Pie to this order, medium-thick Prosciutto a bonus, be sure not to sleep on Marc’s Bronx-based “Chop Cheese” with Ground Beef, Cheddar, Onions and Pickles – but also make sure to save a bit of room for Sin City’s best Cannoli.
N/A: Making it blog policy to not ‘rate’ places based on catering alone, Gemma Gemma’s Square Pies only gets better and better with each visit.
RECOMMENDED: Bronx Chop Salad, Vodka Pep Pie, Bianco Pie, Chop Cheese Torpedo, Roast Pork Torpedo, Cannoli.
AVOID: N/A.
TIP: See the website for current offerings and follow @gemmagemmapizza + @chefmarcmarrone on social for specials.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Previously home to Yu Jean Kang, it was spring of 2017 that Chef Erwin Tjahyadi debuted Bone Kettle, and continuing in those footsteps it is inside Old Town Pasadena’s historic Superior Building that guests will find modern Southeastern Asian Cuisine both familiar and unique.
Once the owner of Komodo truck, an upbringing in California’s San Gabriel Valley instilling Chef Tjahyadi with an appreciation for diverse cultures and Ingredients, it is immediately upon entry that Bone Kettle announces itself as a different kind of Restaurant with understated elegance and service that is professional yet affable.
Spanning Filipino, Indonesian, Malaysian and American in inspiration, with 36-hour Bone Broth the focal point across Dinner as well as weekend Brunch, guests may choose between the lengthy wooden dining room and glorious brick atrium, but should not do so before checking out a Pastry Case featuring items such as Bone Kettle’s weighty Toffee Blondie and “Lil Merri” which falls somewhere between an Oatmeal Sandwich Cookie and Feuilletine.
Not really “Asian Fusion,” but instead a travelers menu featuring dishes with distinct origins next to others with roots elsewhere, it was after perusing a lengthy list that three Entrees were requested, “The Broth” clean yet complex with springy Noodles and Prime Beef complimented by an array of Spices.
Offering large portions at modest prices, dishes such as Krupuk and Lumpia passed over to save room for more “brunchy” choices, Erwin’s “Waffle Stack” earns praise for not only its #instagram appeal but the diversity of flavors and textures while Monte Cristo French Toast is flawlessly executed, fried yet not oily and another example of when Bacon can make something already delicious even better.
Japanese Soufflé Pancakes – Strawberries, Whipped Cream, Maple Syrup
A part of Pasadena since 2019, Miss Cheese Tea Café has proven quite adaptable in its first two years of business, and with pandemic precautions slowly lifting across California the cutesy space that started with Bubble Tea and Shaved Ice is now making a name for itself with Fluffy Pancakes.
Locally owned and conveniently located, a public garage just steps away, it was minutes before the official noon opening that guests were invited in, an automated touchpad making ordering and payment easy as K-Pop played overhead.
Also hosting a small craft-sale on Mother’s Day, its owner an entitled twenty-something that Miss Cheese should not welcome back, it was perhaps ten minutes before two plates emerged from behind the counter, dueling Taiyaki with Custard not exactly what had been requested and under-filled though the Waffle itself fared well.
Taking a pass on Boba, and a bit disappointed that Mille Crepe Cakes are no longer #trending enough to sell, it is in exchange for $13.99 that diners can indulge in jiggly rounds of Flour and Egg Whites that live up to their “Soufflé” name next to silky Whipped Cream and Maple Syrup.
Long enjoyed by locals for Chinese Pastry and cheap Dim Sum it was on Mother’s Day that Long’s Family Pastry was found with a short line, the trio if vagrants lured by ownership’s apparent laissez-faire approach to shoplifting not exactly part of Long’s appeal but instead indicative of the area surrounding Los Angeles’ Chinatown.
Underdiscussed in comparison to the San Gabriel Valley neighborhoods, but more accessible to foot traffic and downtown, it is with social distancing guidelines in place that guests entering Long’s receive immediate attention, staff’s desire to make a sale and move on creating palpable pressure for first timers.
Offering a variety of labeled sweets and savories, with prices prominent of a menu board, it was while observing the kitchen in back that seven items were tallied to $16, the Chinese Donut an immediate disappointment sopping with Oil while Long’s Taro Cake tastes like Potatoes cooked in Chicken Broth for too much time.
Improved with Moon Cakes, three plus or minus Egg Yolks featuring golden Pasty and thick filling, Long’s Sesame Ball is well worth its $0.95 while $1.25 for an Egg Custard Tart would be a bargain were it not flaccid and nearly flavorless.
Finishing up with two Buns, “Egg Snow” a disastrous item with what tastes like mushy Pork inside, do instead save money for one labeled Custard that offers fluffy Bread surrounding sweet and creamy molten filling.
Bacon Egg Cheese Biscuit – Buttermilk Biscuit, Bacon, American Cheese, Fried Egg, Strawberry Jam, Green Salad
Sunday Pancakes – Hazelnut Maple Praline, Brown Butter
Mightily impressed by an early 2018 Breakfast at Sunday in Brooklyn it was only a global pandemic that delayed visiting Sunday Hospitality’s first West Coast Restaurant, an early Mother’s Day Brunch at Sibling Rival seeing this little brother thus far trailing far behind the original.
Spanning the length of The Hoxton Hotel in Downtown Los Angeles, and themed as a “neighborhood Bistro,” Sibling Rival asserts to offer “sharable plates” and “innovative takes on Californian classics,” though the current “all-day” menu is a far cry from opening day and only offered from 8am until 2pm.
Quite different from New York in design, bright brass and marble adjacent the open kitchen, it is from the hostess podium that guests are led to upholstered booths, service pleasant but prone to mistakes such as accidentally closing out the check and Coffee decent but in no way worth $4.16 per cup for drip.
Gone with the Pie Cart, a casualty of COVID replaced by some Buns at the lobby Coffee Station, it was after some debate that two Entrees were requested, a quartet of “Apple Fritters” arriving first at about $1.50 per mouthful of fairly flavorless Donut brightened by decadent Cider Caramel Sauce.
Debatably now the home of both Coast’s best Pancakes, Sunday’s $18 triple stack now $16.64 for two at Sibling Rival, fans and first timers should not miss out on Chef Jaime Young’s fluffy rounds smothered in Hazelnut Maple Praline, while Executive chef John Taube’s Bacon Egg and Cheese on a Biscuit from Pastry Chef Mallory Cayon is more reasonably priced and nicely executed next a supporting Salad.
Part of Downtown Los Angeles’ bourgeoning dining scene since 2014 it was over six years later that Gelateria Uli earned accolades from Los Angeles Magazine as the city’s “Best Ice Cream,” a visit to the original Spring Arcade location on Saturday casting doubt on the validity of that list based on a sampling of three flavors.
Owned by Ulviyya Nasibova, a native of Azerbaijan who considers the Gelatetia her “American Dream,” it is with Social Distancing guidelines in place that guests are invited to choose from 24 daily flavors, the fact that three were sold out at 6:00pm preventing a taste of California Pistachio that was instead replaced by Cinnamon-heavy Horchata.
Using time-honored Italian techniques, plus local Ingredients as often as possible, additional flavors run the gamut from traditional to “LA-Inspired,” and although the willingness to try Black Sesame or Lavender is commendable a spoonful of Stracciatella lacks the creaminess of what one gets in Italy or locally from an “American” spot like Jeni’s while Bee Pollen tastes more Caramel than Honey with a slightly granular mouthfeel.
A member of Los Angeles’ Fashion District since 2016 Sonoratown has sustained amidst ongoing gentrification, and now emerging from COVID-19 related closures the Restaurant owned by Teodoro Diaz-Rodriguez, Jr. and Jennifer Feltham continues to thrive thanks to quality Ingredients plus friendly service.
Paying homage to the immigrants who settled in LA’s current Chinatown after the Gold Rush, plus Teo’s hometown, guests entering Sonoratown will quickly identify the smell of Mesquite as the source of fire to the Restaurant’s grill, a concise menu creating easy choices of four Meats and six preparations.
Best known for Carne Asada, each $2.75 Taco seeing plenty of Meat atop Handmade Flour Tortillas, quality sourcing is immediately evident from Protein to Produce, the Steak juicy and complimented by handmade Salsa plus Avocado and crisp Cabbage.
Also offering fiery Chorizo and Tripe, well-cleaned and crisp as it should be, another Sonoratown signature is “Burrito 2.0” for $8.75, and for those who’d prefer something smaller with plenty of melted Cheese the “Chivichanga” featuring Anaheim Chiles roasted alongside either Steak or tender Chicken.
Malone – Housemade Zoolbia, Saffron Rose Water & Pistachio Ice Cream
Recently opening a second Westwood location it was midday Saturday that the original North La Brea location of Mashti Malone’s was found busy, the lone server and safe social distancing creating a brief wait before ordering the signature Malone for $7.
A Los Angeles icon since 1980, owners Mashti and Mehdi Shirvani considered by many the first purveyors of Persian Ice Cream in California, it is by utilizing Ingredients such as Iranian Saffron that flavors extend far beyond Vanilla or Chocolate, in this case Saffron Rosewater & Pistachio that is nearly as creamy as it is aromatic.
Now managed by Arezou Shirvani, Mashti’s son and thus a lifelong Ice Cream maker, it is beneath the large scoop that guests will discover an item called Zoolbia, the fried Pastry consisting of light Dough soaked with Honey that crackles to the tooth, leaving behind an air of Rosewater.
House Smoked Brisket, Homemade Apple BBQ Sauce, Candied Yams with Candied Pecans
Collard Greens
Oxtails and Rice, Gravy, Chiles
Alta Fried Chicken, Fresno Hot Sauce
Pineapple-Coconut Upsidedown Cake
Classic Southern 7 Up Cake made by Winter Fate Bakes
Banana Pudding
Heralded since opening for Southern hospitality and upscale Comfort Food that makes guests feel at home in LA’s urban jungle, it was with the partial-lifting of pandemic precautions that six friends sat down at Alta West Adams, a strict 90-minute limit making things feel slightly less “warm” considering the fact that the Hollywood Restaurant was less than a quarter filled from noon until 1:30 on Saturday.
A joint project from Chefs Keith Corbin and Daniel Patterson, Locol’s failure seeing the Bay Area Chef tap a talented native of Watts to make “honest California Soul Food,” it is through indoor seating and a bar that diners access Alta’s shaded backyard patio complete with foliage, heaters and QR-code menus.
On-concept in everything from Drinks to Cuisine, with prices one might expect in West Hollywood, it is from Starters that guests are invited to begin their meal, Alta’s Cornbread big enough to share but crumbly around the edges while Pimento Dip and deep-fried Black Eyed Peas pack plenty of heat and fare far better.
Also adding Brunch-special Pancakes, the Cornmeal Batter here well-utilized for oversized discs that are buoyant and buttery, sides tally $7-9 with excellent Mac & Cheese at least 8x the size of a laughable quarter Sweet Potato beneath two ground Pecans.
Also adding Collards, a porky sapor invigorating tender Greens and complex aromatics, fans of BBQ will find Corbin’s Brisket lacking Bark but upgraded by sweet BBQ Sauce while $31 Oxtails with Rice and $24 Shrimp and Grits each justify their cost with bold flavors and textbook execution.
Defiantly charging $4.50 a piece for Fried Chicken lacking Breasts, apparently skillet-made but more akin to what one might get from an air-fryer, Dessert poses a different set of challenges, outsourced 7-Up Cake moist and enjoyable in comparison to what is essentially a Pineapple Upside Down Muffin and neither nearly so good as the light and layered Banana Pudding.
Sightglass Breakfast Sandwich – Egg, Cheddar Cheese, Bacon, English Muffin
Honey Almond Bostock
Banana Cream Cheese Muffin
Opened 3/13/2020 and immediately shuttered by a global pandemic it is safe to say Sightglass Coffee had an eventful first year, the San Francisco import now filling 12,000 square feet in Hollywood as “Sightglass Marketplace & Roastery” with everything from $7.99-per-pint Tomatoes to Food designed by Chef Brett Cooper.
Predictably drawing a hip crowd, outside four-tops crowded by individuals sipping V60 pourovers while pecking at their iPhone, it is inside the former warehouse that would be patrons will find a variety of locally made items and artisan packaged products all juxtaposed by a sizable roasting room featuring both modern technology and a vintage Probat machine.
Offering neither restrooms nor electrical outlets to guests spending upwards of $4 for Coffee or $10 for a Breakfast Sandwich, the cooler-than-you vibe from owners Jerad and Justin Morrison entirely on brand, it is from an outdoor window that orders are shouted, an Americano featuring Owl’s Howl Espresso offering bold Chocolate notes that work well with Pastries such as the marbled Banana Cream Cheese Muffin from Jillian Bartolome.
Less impressed by Honey Almond Bostock, the Brioche less toasted than stale in texture, it seems recent that Sightglass replaced the soft Bun of their Breakfast Sandwich with a warm English Muffin, but between the folded Omelette, Bacon and Aged Cheddar both taste and texture are admittedly splendid.
