Told by a server one day later that it is by law that most of the shopping in Copenhagen closes at 18h00 while restaurants outside of Fast Food establishments are required to stop service by midnight it was just past 20h50 that a visit was paid to Mr. Churros at Nørrebrogade 41, the location passed by several times on bike without notice thanks to ongoing construction luring diners in with a promise of “Lavish Delights made with love.”
Originally opened in January of 2017, the doors unlocked at 12h00 daily and closing at 21h00 Sunday through Wednesday with an extra hour added on weekends, Mr. Churros can best be described as a bare bones operation focused on sweet Street Food favorites from Spain, Belgium and France with straight from the jar toppings including liquid Chocolate, Caramel, Sprinkles and Soft-Serve from a Mix.
Featuring a big mural on one wall, counter against the other and a kitchen at the back, just one server who did not seem amused by the late arrival of three parties only ten minutes before she was to depart, leaving a messy counter and used Oil behind in the fryer behind, it was nonetheless with a flat face that she accepted 30DKK for any of the menu’s three items, the Crepe stone thankfully not required as it had already been powered down but the five people still requesting two Waffles and four orders of Cinnamon Donuts before she could leave.
Playing American pop tunes a little too loud, the feel of the space fairly happy despite the young woman’s sour demeanor, it was after being asked not to take a seat because “I’m closed” that guests stood waiting for her to clip measured pieces of Dough into the fryer while taking to the back where Waffles are made on an Iron not dissimilar to what one may have at home, each item offered with a choice of two toppings though the store was already sold out of Vanilla Ice Cream.
Presumably already putting in a full 9-hours of frying with the Oil, possibly more as the young lady walked out on the heels of her last guest, it was after a few photos were snapped that hurried work was tasted, the unevenly cooked Churros served in a sizable portion well coated in Cinnamon Sugar proving competent if not memorable even with thin Caramel Sauce dripping down their sides while the Waffle was fluffy but flaccid, the lack of a crispy edge noteworthy compared to those found in the shops of Brussels, though Chocolate liberally squeezed from a bottle was not.
Salad with White Fish, Mint and Coriander topped in Spicy Marinade of Chili and Garlic
Frozen Red Curry with Langoustine
Fried Foie Gras with Plum Wine Sauce and Ginger
Tomka Chicken Ballotine with Coconut, Ginger and Asparagus served with Rice
Massaman Curry with Potato, Lovage, Butter and Kiin Kiin ‘Chips’
Lime Fromage with Holy Basil
Banana Cake with Salted Coconut Ice Cream
In a city whose modern dining scene is built on foraging, preservation and the sort of Artisan practices that are rarely seen in 2017 it may seem strange that one of Copenhagen’s most well-regarded restaurants is a Modernist interpretation of Thai Cuisine by two Danes, Lertchai and Henrik Yde-Andersen’s Kiin Kiin continually considered one of the world’s best for over a decade.
Originally opened in 2006, a love for Thai food cultivated through several years in the country giving its founding Chefs the sort of exposure and assurance to launch a unique concept in the emerging Nørrebro neighborhood long before Christian Puglisi turned the area into one of the trendiest places to drink and dine in all of Denmark, Kiin Kiin is currently toqued by Holstebro-raised Dak Laddaporn who learned to cook at the elbow of her Thai Mother, a molecular influence only embraced later during apprenticeships throughout Copenhagen and her current menu a nine-course affair that actually becomes more than double that when accounting for snacks served in the foyer.
Decorated in religious artifacts, orchids and woven textures, guests entering on the ground floor immediately offered a seat on rattan chairs where snacks including dehydrated Lotus Root with Lime Salt, refreshing Citrus Tea and an “eatable bag” of Thai flavors await, the scene at Kiin Kiin is set early with servers aflutter, the set-menu presented largely for perusal and drink pairings decisions, though by-the-glass selections of Juices or Wine are also available.
Not exactly a comfortable way to sit for those of any height, the recessed chairs putting ones knees at nearly eye level if leaning back, snacks in the lobby continue by way of crisp Meringues with Wasabi Cream revealed by a swirling ‘magic trick’ before progressing into a Spinach Leaf Wrap with light heat, the “Satay” of Chicken Skin topped in Peanut Butter Ice Cream, Ginger and Apple the meal’s first memorable bite with compelling texture and temperature components as strong notes of Cumin come first before dissipating into a sweet finish.
Smiling at shaved flakes of Bonito dancing atop what was essentially reconstructed Chawnmushi next, the Moo Ping and Chiang Mai to follow both served hot with big flavors of Char and Curry, respectively, it was here that guests were led upstairs to tables tightly packed into a dining room that was unfortunately both warm and stuffy, the Kiin Kiin cookbook present on each and every table to pass the time as courses were brought out as readied by the kitchen with wait times often substantial.
One of the few Michelin starred restaurants in Copenhagen open on Mondays, the reservation a tough one even today thanks to tourists as neighboring tables on all sides were heard speaking English, Kiin Kiin’s proper menu began by way a trio of diverse flavors including a Ginger and Lemongrass Rice Cracker and delicate Prawn Toast alongside a bowl of Tom Yum Soup into which guests are encouraged to unload a syringe of liquid Tofu, the hot Broth quickly cooking the ‘Noodles,’ though the combination of such a large bowl and small syringe made for a bit too much liquid and not enough substance.
Requesting a glass of Iced Tea to go with the meal, the staff inexplicably never asking if the table wanted Water and eventually such an odd situation that it became a point *not* to ask just so the surcharge could be refused at the end, course two was served as a big pile of Cotton Candy that was vanished by way of a tableside pour of Chili and Garlic Marinade, the dish described as spicy perhaps “Thai Level 2” by American Standards though the Citrus-cured Fish in a tangle of Mint and Greens seemed to benefit from the subtlety as it allowed diners to taste each of the well-sourced components individually as well as in combination.
Presenting a Kiin Kiin ‘signature’ next, the Nitrogen frozen Red Curry creating a billow of cold steam that was soon expelled from nostrils atop a snappy Langoustine hidden beneath a blanket of Vegetables with a bit of Citrus and Fish Sauce, it was here that diners were given the choice as to whether or not to add the 155DKK “Extravagant” supplement of seared Duck Liver in foamy Plum Wine Sauce, the expectedly unctuous Foie Gras finding its foil in a liberal grating of fresh Ginger.
Thankful for small portions to this point, Chef Laddaporn’s riff on Thai Coconut Soup served with a round of White Rice to be added at the diner’s discretion to a bowl also containing Chicken Breast stuffed with Forcemeat, Asparagus and crispy Vegetable threads, those fearing too much heat from the Massaman Curry will be happy to know that Denmark’s idea of spicy is quite different from most places, the deconstructed and reconstructed dish of Potatoes, Lovage, Coconut and Tamarind beautiful in its balance and complex in textures thanks to the individualized presentation of its components.
Transitioning from savory to sweet by way of a steel ball flipped open to reveal Lime Curd and Meringue on one side with Citrus Cream Cheese topped in Leaves of Holy Basil on the other, a refreshing duo whether enjoyed separately or mixed, it was only after a nearly thirty minute pause that dinner came to a sudden end by way of Banana Cake with Salted Coconut Ice Cream served in deconstructed textures on wood, the Cookbook’s suggestion that “we always serve a large selection of after dinner sweets” instead replaced by just the check, a fairly odd decision considering the parade of bites that the evening began with.
Brown Beech Mushrooms, Kelp, Smoked Egg Yolk Sauce
Braised Pork, Cream, Spring Truffle
Sorbet of Wild Black Currants, Preserved Pine, Hazelnut Milk
Never particularly wowed by photos from others at noma, though I have no doubt of Rene Redzepi’s passion or skill, it was with mild curiosity that a table was booked at 108 on Monday evening, the menu small enough that a few plates could be tasted without filling up before dinner at Kiin Kiin at 19h30.
Not claiming, pretending or attempting to be noma in any way, the idea instead an a la carte means for the Chefs to show off seasonal and preserved produce collected throughout the region by way simple plates that change day to day, 108 is named for its address on Strandgade across from the newly launched Barr that replaced the former “World’s #1 Restaurant,” the dining room opening each day at 17h00 though ‘The Corner’ next door is opened morning and afternoon with a smaller menu including Pastries, Sandwiches, Wine and Coffee.
Toqued by Kristian Baumann and situated in big room of blonde wood, concrete and oversized lightbulbs with an American Classic Rock Soundtrack, the service almost a bit *too* casual at times as waiters were plainly seen strolling around checking their cellular phones in the dining room, it was immediately as the restaurant opened that several guests checked in at the hostess’ stand, a two-top looking across the space proving comfortable enough and found adorned with enough silverware to last three courses.
Offering just a dozen items nightly, at least two of them large format dishes intended to be shared, it was after declining wine that three savories and a Dessert were requested, the water sold at a surcharge much like elsewhere and the total bill nearly $100USD for what was not only underwhelming food, but not a whole lot of it.
Starting off with Sourdough Bread and a spread described as “Whipped Cream,” the culturing process stopped early to allow for a lighter texture and robust sourness that went well with the surprisingly dense loaf, course one was on the table no more than five minutes after the order was placed, a finely ground round of Raw Lamb served atop Pickles pleasant in terms of texture but almost completely devoid of taste, a total lack of seasoning leaving the whole presentation sort of one note and the Protein itself lacking Lamb’s characteristic depth.
Only describing plates by ingredients, no real indication of preparation entailed, the next two savories could probably best be described as Bar Snacks at the cost of 50DKK per bite, the Tempura Brown Beech Mushrooms dusted in Kelp with Smoked Egg Yolk Sauce not close to as interesting as the unfried version at Geist that afternoon while the Braised Pork was dry and packed into oily Fritters topped with Cream and modestly flavored Spring Truffles.
Not particularly wowed by any of the Dessert descriptions, but willing to look for some reprieve in the one that sounded the least contrived, “Sorbet of Wild Black Currants, Preserved Pine and Hazelnut Milk” once again showed 108 offering mostly one-note flavors, the little frozen discs not particularly pleasant as they were quite acidic and icy while the Milk was served entirely unsweetened with the Pine coming through as a faint mint flavor at the end.
Sourdough Rolls with Danish Butter and Fleur de Sel
Enoki Mushrooms with Yuzu and Egg Yolk Sauce
Salted and Dried Breast of Young Duck with Cherries
Grilled Avocado with Green Almonds and Curry
Ricotta Gnocchi with Fermented White Asparagus and Summer Truffle Mornay
Charred Quail with Summer Truffle
Zucchini Flowers stuffed with Cod and Pistachio
Heart of Lamb with Red Grapes and Wood Sorrel
Blackberries with Oellebroed
Caramelized Bread with Vanilla Ice Cream
Originally opened at Kongens Nytorv 8 in 2011, an enormous room with a trendy vibe not far from Nyhavn clearly a luxury available to Chef Bo Bech thanks to his years as a Celebrity Chef on a Danish cooking program, Geist is one of the most polarizing restaurants in all of Copenhagen amongst those who travel and talk about such things, some calling the menu an a la carte alternative to relæ or noma while others seem to loath the place for feeling like a club and offering flavors that are underseasoned or too ‘simple’ to warrant their price-tag.
Booked in the middle of a downpour, one of three experienced during an eight day trip to the Capital in July, it was mere moments before the a 12h00 reservation that several tourists huddled beneath the canopy were forced to part in order for guests to enter the restaurant, a hostess who also acted as waitress leading them to tables at the furthest end of a room that would never fill past 1/8 over the next three hours of dining, in reality probably a good thing as the kitchen’s expediting process is a mystery still to be solved with some items coming out hot-on-the-heels of that before it while others were subjected to wait times eclipsing thirty-five minutes.
Without doubt a member of the ‘New Nordic’ way of thinking, though not as prone to foraging as Redzepi or Nørregaard nor as obsessed with processes as Puglisi, Bech’s menu features a fairly substantial number of plates each day for lunch and dinner, the ability to build one’s own tasting menu a novelty amidst Copenhagen’s best restaurants but one that is welcomed for those willing to share or those with a fairly substantial appetite.
Perusing the menu while bearing in mind that reservations were pending for dinners at both 17h00 and 19h30, it was ignoring comments from the server that eight plates would be ‘too much food’ that an order was placed, her mistake actually adding one more that was served free of charge and the afternoon starting out with three-bite Sourdough Rolls served warm with Salted Butter.
Rather wishing a seat near the kitchen had been offered, the open counter assuredly more interesting than raindrops falling on an empty patio and bumping beets playing overhead, it was just as a party of ten took a seat across the monochromatic space that course one arrived, a tangle of blanched Enoki Mushrooms glistening with Citrus and Egg Yolk an elegant way to awaken the tastebuds and quickly followed by house-cured Duck Breast sliced thin amongst a light drizzle of Balsamic and halved-Sour Cherries.
Somehow mistaking the word Avocado for Gnocchi, odd as the Server spoke flawless English, it was after a short pause that Bech’s oft-photographed Curried Avocado with Raw Almonds arrived and eating far lighter than the average with an almost snappy texture and surprisingly light fragrance the dish was successful despite being slightly under-seasoned, exactly the opposite situation marring the Gnocchi that had actually been requested as the Dumplings were presented as a hide-and-seek amidst White Asparagus Tips beneath Truffled Mornay that was quite salty.
Here hitting the first expediting snag, the fact that the large group was now receiving food along with a few other tables seeing a thirty minute gap before a simple grilled Quail with slices of Summer Truffle arrived, it was shortly after the Bones had been picked clean that the dish of the afternoon arrived, a trio of Squash Blossoms stuffed with Brandade in a pool of Pistachio Cream finding an elegant balance as the expected Fish flavor came across first only to dissipate quickly with a sweet and nutty linger.
Opting against the Tartare presentations of 108, relæ and others when presenting Lamb it was instead with 1/8” thick slices of the beast’s Heart gently smoked and mixed with Grapes and Wood Sorrel that savories concluded, the flavors somewhat redundant in the setting of the Duck and left to be thought about for some time as a dessert of Blackberries and Rye Porridge took nearly twenty minutes arrive with another thirty-five separating the hoppy dish from a thin slice of French Toast soaked in Caramel and topped with creamy Vanilla Ice Cream.
Located at Gothersgade 30, a few steps up allowing for a privileged vantage of streets below, Atelier September is one of *those* places that everyone who visits Copenhagen talks about even though little about it appears to be noteworthy, a Monday morning breakfast visit just minutes before the arrival of a party of twenty giving a glimpse of why as the menu proves more ‘well edited’ than ‘limited’ with each of three items ordered proving worthwhile.
An inhabitant of the same street since 1987 and easy to miss though frequently nearby as Gothersgade is a convenient throughway across the city with quick access to Nørreport and Torvehallerne, Café Atelier September was originally opened in the early 90s and although the space still contains an artist’s studio and galleries the focus of most visitors is on the Food created by Frederik Bille Brahe.
Another quick-service kitchen not unlike Mad & Kaffe, most of the items pre-made or quickly assembled which allows for a meal to be easily completed in less than half-an-hour even though many choose to stick around with Coffee in hand, diners at Café Atelier September are first greeted by the house Dog who will be happy to collect any crumbs as they approach the counter, housemade Rye and Croissants immediately tempting even before one takes a look at the menu lined with items including Eggs, Yogurt and even Avocado Toast.
Serving lunch and breakfast daily, a 07h00 opening on Weekdays and later on Weekends with closure each day at 16h00, it was after being told of the large party that a chair was secured at the window before placing an order, the Croissant immediately taken to the seat and pulled apart with layers crackling and crumbs raining down, the interior buttery and soft with arching caverns of lamination.
Enjoying Bread and Butter for the second time that morning, the housemade Rye as good as any in town and all the better with Danish Butter so fresh that beads of water came to the surface as it was cut, fans of Comte will be glad to know Atelier September uses wheels aged for greater than 24-months, the crystals not yet forming but the flavor pleasant and nutty just as it was in the Granola atop Cows-Milk Yogurt topped in Sugar-preserved Squash and a light dusting of Matcha powder.
Fried Chorizo Sausage with BBQ Ketchup, Chicken Nuggets with Sweet and Sour Sauce, Blueberry Soy Yogurt with Housemade Muesli and Berries, Organic Vesterhavsost Cheese with Housemade Currant Jam, Organic Rye Bread and Sourdough Bread with Butter, Organic Cinnamon Bun with Chocolate, Organic Gluten Free Brownie
With the 25% Sales Tax and focus on quality ingredients making most of Copenhagen’s dining fairly expensive compared to the rest of Europe it was admittedly a bit surprising when two people independently suggested Mad & Kaffe as one of the city’s best breakfasts, the choose your own adventure menu at a bargain price of 3 items for 78DKK, 5 for 120 and 7 for 148…or about what one would spend for a half-dozen pastries at Lagkagehuset.
Opened in 2015 at Sønder Boulevard 68 in Vesterbro, a second location eastward toward the Airport opening since, it was just past nine o’clock that the bike was parked amidst many others outside a space that would soon be filled with 20-somethings on a non-Holiday Monday, most of them speaking Dutch and clearly local, though both the menu and service is available in English.
Essentially a quick fire kitchen, most of the Breakfast items easy to prepare or pre-made with Breads and Sweets outsourced or baked early, those dining at Mad & Kaffe are first given a table followed by a Checklist and a Pencil, the choices divided into sections including Dairy, Greens, Bakery, Meat & Fish or Treat of the Dairy with Eggs randomly filed under the first section and the total number of options around twenty.
Self service for water, though most seemed to be lingering at tables over coffee and conversation, it was after some deliberation that the seven item choice was made with a 4/3 split towards Sweet, the wooden board arriving about fifteen minutes later with everything accounted for and first bites of the “Chorizo” a bit strange as meat had definite heat, though not the source typically found in the Mexican version with a texture more akin to a Hotdog than a housemade ‘Sausage.’
Taking a few bites of Bread before moving on, the thinly sliced Rye textural and dense while the Sourdough unfortunately seemed a little dry even with the packaged Butter, a Chicken “Nugget” that would actually be called a “Strip” or “Plank” Stateside was tasted next, the coating a spicy mix that imparted a slight nuttiness nothing like the Batter used back home and all the better for it, though the “Sweet and Sour Sauce” was more like American BBQ while that served with the Chorizo was sort of like Heinz mixed with Tabasco Sauce.
Using Cheese as a sort of transition, the Danes’ love of Bread with a slice at Breakfast fairly obvious from a look at any morning counter or takeaway in town, the thick wedge of semi-hard Vesterhavsost provided a mild bit of sweetness while proving a pleasant foil to the Sour Currant Jam by its side, the Soy “Yogurt” to follow nicely flavored with Blueberries and creamy in texture though the Granola fell far short of the likes of Mirabelle or Grød.
Sad to see the Kanelsnegl topped in a big dollop of Chocolate, the Pastry layers mostly fine though not as heavy in Butter or Cinnamon as others, Mad & Kaffe’s Gluten Free Brownie would turn out to be the most “American” of the trip, the flourless base eating a lot like Fudge beneath a layer of Ganache while the typical Danish “Brownie” more closely resembles a slice of Chocolate Cake.
With most of Copenhagen’s top tables closed on Sunday evening it was largely a case of limited possibilities that led to a reservation at Marchal Restaurant, though as luck would have it the decision also came with the backing of friends who’d recently stayed at d’Angleterre and dined there during their honeymoon.
Opened in 2013 and carrying a Michelin Star from the start, Chef Andreas Bagh’s menu largely modern French in a grand room befitting the stature of one of Copenhagen’s most prestigious hotels, diners arriving at Marchal will immediately be struck by the luxe confines featuring thick drapes, white tablecloths and polished stone beyond a bar clearly targeting the well-heeled, a strictly a la carte menu divided into Appetizers, Signatures and Desserts priced as high as one might expect given the environment.
Charging upwards of $1,500.00USD for a room at the property established in 1755, not exactly the sort of place a typical tourist stays or even ventures to enter, it is after greetings at a podium up front that diners are led to their choice of tables, the large window overlooking a walkway unfortunately under construction still good for people watching, though a pair of rich Americans flaunting their “Upper East Side Manhattan” address and making requests for a “big Salad” and several bizarre dietary restrictions immediately made one aware of the sort of entitled behavior staff here regularly has to deal with.
Doing best to ignore other diners, though the relative quiet of Marchal does make that somewhat difficult at times, it was with service from an English fluent young Captain that the meal got underway after asking a few questions as relates to portion sizes, the decision to order a single Appetizer and an entrée designed for two a good amount of food that still left room for Dessert(s) at the end.
Having wrapped their well-regarded Sunday Brunch buffet earlier, a tempting spread that another table could not stop praising as they sat down to sample Bagh’s cuisine for at least the fourth time on the trip, it was mere moments after placing an order that the meal got underway, three Gougeres filled with Black Truffle Cheese and topped with Summer Truffle shavings an elegant way to start things off with the basket of piping hot Spelt Loaves to follow another well-crafted item with the Danish Butter flecked in Sea Salt.
Fairly casual despite the elegant interior, servers showing a lot of personality to those who actually choose to interact rather than just treating them like ‘the help,’ it was not long thereafter than the kitchen sent out a sizable slice of Foie Gras perched atop Apricot with Raspberries and razor-thin slices of candied Blood Orange, the unctuousness of the Liver finding its foil in the Fruit’s sweetness while the acidity was kept in check by a Sichuan Pepper-infused pan Sauce.
Describing the Restaurant as offering “Modern Urban Food,” an odd choice of words as much of the repertoire seems to come from Nouvelle French ideas in its lack of reliance on Butter and Cream, the night’s entrée was presented and carved tableside with the sort of swiftness that indicates a well trained staff, two succulent Pigeon Breasts with a lot of smoke placed atop a bed of Cherries, Beets and Rhubarb while the Confit Legs were served on a separate plate, each inner thigh supporting one atrium and one ventricle of the hemisected Heart.
Told that the name “Marchal” references Jean Marchal, the man who originally opened the restaurant that eventually became Hotel d’Angleterre, it was on the server’s recommendation that the signature “Gold Bar” was passed up in favor of two alternative Desserts served simultaneously, the seasonal Peaches baked in Puff Pastry with a hint of Rose and Calvados Ice Cream very much like an American Cobbler while the Baked Alaska given a tableside treatment with flaming Rum took a distinctly Danish spin on things by pairing the toasty Meringue with aromatic Licorice Ice Cream and refreshing Lemon Sorbet.
Raw Milk Stracciatella, Garden Herbs and Summer Truffles
Mirabelle Sourdough
Tomato, Bæst ‘Nduja, Smoked Bæst Mozzarella, New Onions, Oregano
Tiramisu, House Mascarpone, Dark Chocolate, Coffee Collective Espresso, Rum
Owned by Christian Puglisi, the Italian-born Dane who has been helping to shape the face of Nordic cuisine ever since he departed noma to open relæ in 2010, Bæst has been said by some to not only offer the best Pizza in Denmark but also potentially the best anywhere outside of Naples, the Chef’s commitment to doing everything possible on-site perhaps even more impressive here than at his flagship or at Manfred’s.
Centered around a 900°F wood oven and a cold-fermented Dough made of local Flour, the space a lengthy one with an open kitchen and well-stocked bar in trendy Nørrebro, Bæst originally opened at the end of 2014 and although the table-turning service and two-hour reservation windows originally bothered locals the idea has nonetheless sustained and thrived, the 5:30pm daily opening often seeing a short queue for walk-ins with reservations often required for parties of four or more in order to secure a seat during prime hours.
Tucked away off the street at Guldbergsgade 29, Puglisi’s Mirabelle next door responsible for producing the restaurant’s Sourdough and some of the Desserts, it was around 17h45 that a walk-in spot for one was requested, a seat next to the window at a communal high-top comfortable with the server a young man from Mexico who was pleasant and informative as he described Bæst’s concept and recommended some of his favorite dishes.
Designing the menu much like Manfred’s, though certainly more broad ranging with the option for a Chef’s Tasting listed at the center, it was only due to later dinner reservations that the decision was made to order a la carte, the goal of focusing on housemade Cheeses and Charcuterie limited for a party of one who also hoped to try the Pie, the online listing of plates accurate aside from desserts and fairly affordable given the focus on craft and the fact that the vast majority of items are certified organic.
Featured in “Where to Eat Pizza,” both that book and Puglisi’s available as house copies along with free WiFi to pass the time, it was after perhaps ten minutes of instead watching the men and women manning the oven work that the first dish arrived, 155DKK (approximately $23.50USD) for a Cheese plate seemingly steep until one considers the fact that the wet shreds of Organic Raw Cow’s Milk were as creamy as anything coming out of Italy with a slight hint of lactic acid up front that paired very nicely with the best Summer Truffles seen all trip, their flavor adding a light muskiness that played well of peppery Herbs from the relæ garden.
Exposed here for the first time to Mirabelle’s Sourdough, the almost-burned Crust crackling to the tooth with a springy center pocketed in air bubbles and slightly sour notes, it was with Olive Oil on some and Cheese on most that four thick slices were consumed over the course of sixty minutes, the stomach space completely justified even as the Pizza arrived, the leopard-spotted Crust featuring a bubbly cornicione that was light like the Neapolitan style but more rigid at its center, the imported Tomatoes pairing well with spicy housemade ‘Nduja and lightly smoked Bæst Mozzarella plus thinly sliced sauteed Onions and fresh-chopped Oregano.
Featuring a concise Dessert Menu, mostly Ice Cream and Gelato but also a Tiramisu using housemade Mascarpone, the obvious choice was indeed the sizable wedge that ate far lighter than one would guess despite being nicely saturated with Espresso and Rum, Puglisi’s friendship with The Coffee Collective and willingness to use top quality Dark Chocolate yielding a flavor that was a bit bitter at first before mellowing out into something that still was not ‘sweet,’ but moreso complex and creamy building towards a Boozy finish.
Located approximately thirty minutes outside of Copenhagen by car, an additional forty for those using a combination of Public Transportation and foot, Søllerød Kro is said by many to be one of Scandinavia’s very best Restaurants, the “White Guide” recently awarding it a top 5 position behind the likes of Michelin 3* Geranium and Maaemo in Oslo.
Described as “French Cuisine” using local ingredients, though recent reports of Chef Brian Mark Hansen’s cooking suggest an increasing element of New Nordic influence, Søllerød Kro is located inside of a 1677 Inn in the middle of a forest, the walk from the bus stop a pleasant one that takes no more than 15 minutes at a steady pace, though most guests during this particular meal appeared to be nearby locals or folks who made the drive from Copenhagen.
Awarded one Michelin Star since 2007 but with a lengthy history, part of that being a Sunday lunch tradition of opening up the space to families and kids of all ages, it was just prior to 11:45am that the first guests arrived at the lengthy white building in Holte, the early moments everything that fine dining should be with “Yes Sir and Yes Ma’am” aplenty and Champagne flowing, though what followed would probably be best described as a few steps above dining at one of the McDonald’s locations with an indoor playground.
For many a special event sort of Restaurant, the menu divided into a bargain Lunch and two Tasting menus, the Søllerød Signatur and Søllerød Inspiration at DKK1795 and 875, respectively, it seemed only appropriate as a first time visitor to place trust in the items on which the restaurant established itself, a Wine list said to be one of the best in all of Europe passed on in favor of one of Alain Milliat’s new Nectars, the pasteurized Cabernet Grape expressive and brisk in a way that pairs well with everything, though obviously a bit sweeter and less complex than serious oenophiles would appreciate.
Listed as an eight course menu, but in reality double that when accounting for several canapés, amuses, palate cleansers and mignardises along the way, it was just before the restaurant started to fill that things got started, a plastic ‘egg’ filled with boiled Potatoes, Summer Truffles and Bread Crumbs rich and creamy while the Asparagus in smoked Cream was a lot like that at AOC the night before, the small morsel of cured Duck around Prune a tasty balance of sweet and salty while the Apple compressed in Lemon Verbena was a refreshing single bite to refresh the palate for flavors to arrive next.
Offering what would turn out to be one of Denmark’s best Bread services at a pace best defined as brisk, a new Roll of either type delivered warm just as soon as the last bite of its predecessor was gone, it was with anything but a French classic that an amuse arrived featuring Watercress Ice Cream and immature Strawberries in a cold soup flavored with Parsley, the “Oscietra Unika En Surprise” that followed described as a Søllerød Kro ‘signature’ but in reality quite similar to something anyone who has dined at Joel Robuchon has experienced with a thin layer of sustainable Caviar stacked on Asparagus Gel and diced Razor Clams alongside a Horseradish Crisp.
Following up Caviar with more Caviar, the grilled Oyster topped in salty black Eggs specially produced for the Restaurant seemingly an odd decision to reuse a flavor profile so early on, course three was unfortunately a case of unnecessary ‘modernism’ creeping into the dining room, the nitrogen frozen Horseradish liberally added to a disc of Scallops topped in both Ginger and Grapefuit presenting a flavor so bitter and cutting that Hansen may as well have been serving Ground Chuck beneath it because no one would have noticed the difference.
Returning all but one bite of the dish to the kitchen, not one question or mention of it from the staff aside from “all finished?,” it was finally here that flavors got more interesting, the Lobster Tail served beneath softened Cabbage and Curry Foam infused with Thai Basil fairly spicy by Danish standards and yet another case of Chef Robuchon’s influence while the Foie Gras Torchon was a pleasant yet standard preparation putting the creamy quarter-hockey puck beneath Kumquat Jam and Dark Chocolate Crisps.
Clearly a restaurant dependent on using luxury ingredients to wow guests, a bronzed ounce of Turbot seared with Bear’s Garlic served next to a gelatin layer of Black Garlic atop Broad Beans coming next, savories finished with a slightly overcooked Loin of wild-shot Deer marinated in Black Pepper Reduction, the flavorless Summer Truffles served as a shredded cloud atop Cabbage more interesting as a texture than a taste beneath foamy Hollandaise.
Cleansing the palate with a warm cup of Lemon-Ginger Tea and a Macaron of complimentary flavor, a harmless little duo that arrived around 14h30 as several Danish children had long since been chasing up and down the aisles unrestrained by oblivious parents, Dessert one again took a post-noma turn by presenting halved-Cherries atop an Almond Caked next to a quenelle of fresh Woodruff Ice Cream, 2/3 of the Mignardises again featuring ingredients served no more than two courses prior while the Mango Popsicle intended to be dipped in White Chocolate was a fairly clumsy presentation that really did not seem to fit the meal’s concept.
If one were pitching “Restaurant concepts guaranteed to fail” stateside it seems Organic Porridge Bar would rank high on that list, but for those who enjoy a good bowl of Oats in the morning there are few things more comforting and in Copenhagen Grød looks to capitalize on that fact by offering both Breakfast and Dinner versions composed of top quality ingredients.
Originally a single location offering just Organic Oats, Housemade Granola and a few additional toppings, but since growing into a small chain that features everything from Gluten-Free Porridge to Congee with a highly regarded cookbook available so that those with the time and inclination can replicate the recipes at home, it was just prior to Grød’s 9:00am Sunday opening at Torvehallerne that a few guests had already lined up, a trio of small tables soon to be filled along with the countertop.
Designed like a quick-service concept, the menu divided into morning versus day and available in English or Dutch, Grød at the Market employs just a single young woman taking on the quadruple role of server, cook, cashier and barista, the potential to get backed up a very real one that quickly sees wait times as long as forty minutes, the fact that Coffee as well as the Gluten-Free Porridge must be made to order further complicating the matter and seeing several potential customers walk away with those sales lost.
Glad to have arrived early, a seat at the far end of the counter allowing one to watch what is actually a surprisingly intensive amount of prep-work, those seeking to get a good taste of what Grød is about are encouraged to bring a friend to share, or at least to try a couple of the smaller bowls, several suggested combinations offered by number or as an “all-in” option, though those looking to customize are free to do so with up to three ‘toppings’ at the base price and an additional one for 10DKK or 3 for twenty Kroner.
Certified Organic and careful to avoid contamination, a fairly impressive thing given the limitations in space, it was with two bowls prepared in approximately ten minutes that the tasting got started, “Oat Porridge #2” a creamy Bowl mixed with housemade Granola, tangy Yogurt and Apples reduced with Vanilla while the combination of specially processed Oats, Quinoa and Chia Seeds boiled down thick and sticky, a situation furthered by the DIY-addition of Peanut Butter, Caramel Sauce and Cocoa Nibs that tasted a lot like a Snickers without all the added Sugar.
Strawberry Tart with Chocolate and Cream (Jordbaerkage)
Carrot Loaf
Chocolate and Caramel Covered Marzipan
With Andersen Bakery shuttering both locations permanently on 6/28/17 and many other Copenhagen establishments closed on Sundays it was to Det Rene Brød at Godthåbsvej 45 in Frederiksberg that the bike was steered on July 2nd, a 7:00am arrival finding the place fairly busy for a city where few are frequent Church-goers, the clientele entirely local and several of them clearly regulars.
Still a family owned business since opening in 1988, though now with a couple of locations around the city, Det Rene Brød roughly translates to “Pure Bread” and although quite similar to Lagkagehuset and Meyers Bageri there is something that immediately seems more ‘homey’ about the space, a rustic sort of charm in the way things are displayed and cute signs about the virtues of Coffee as well as patience.
Offering both savory Breads and Pastries, an elderly Baker visible behind the counter manning an oven that renders the interior of the space quite warm, it was after scanning the goods a couple of times that the decision was made to invest in a total of six items, the price after tax just under $20USD and first bites of the seed-covered Grov Birkes impressive in just how much the Danish palate differs from America, the thin layer of Jam only slightly sweet and the overall flavor not dissimilar to the Sesame Steam Buns occasionally seen at Chinese Restaurants.
Getting more sugary from here forward, though even something as simple as Icing seems to be made less sweet in Copenhagen, a second encounter with Jordbaerkage proved far more successful than the first thanks to darker Chocolate and fresher Berries while the Carrot Cake here was also better than Laura’s or Lagkagehuset thanks to an ample amount of grated Vegetables and Nuts, the lack of Frosting made up for by buttery Streusel teaming with Ginger, Cloves and other Spices.
Told that it might be a good idea to let the Danish settle for a few more moments, the desire to eat it hot balanced by one of not wanting to lose any of the semi-solid Custard, it was after perhaps ten minutes that the laminated square was torn in half to find the center still jiggly, the Eggy custard again reminiscing a classic Dim Sum selection while the Hazelnuts offered a nice textural contrast despite not really affecting the flavor too much.
Rounding out the visit with a Cinnamon Roll plus a chilled square best described as a Klondike Bar replacing Ice Cream with Marzipan, those looking for the best Kanelsnegl” in the city need look no further than Det Rene Brød, the flattened coil allowing more surface area to come into contact with the heat and thus become more crispy while the laminated dough holds up well to a whole lot of Butter and Cinnamon plus a thin swirl of Icing.
Sorrel Wrap with Sea Lettuce, Rhubarb and White Cabbage
Baby Cucumber – 20 days with its Flower and 2 months with Buttermilk Whey and Thyme Salt
Reindeer Moss with Chicken Liver and Cepes, Potato with Leek Puree and Parsley Powder
Purple and Green Asparagus with Brown Butter and Roe from Swedish Cod
Pancake with Beef Tartare, Garlic Flower, Smoked Beet Powder, Water Cress, Horseradish Cream, Gooseberry and Woodruff Chutney
White Asparagus with Torched Mornay
German Turnip with Danish Oysters
Sea Scallop with Fermented Asparagus, Daikon and Dill Oil and Mussel Infused Steam Bun
Sourdough Bread with Spelt and Dark Beer, Cow’s Milk Butter and Butter Infused with Icelandic Kelp
Onion with Caviar and Elderflower
Grilled King Crab with Turbot Roe and Lemon-Thyme Emulsion, smoking Bouquet of Pine, Juniper and Thyme
King Crab Dumpling – Lardo, Kombu
New Danish Potatoes, Wild Mushrooms and Kornly Cheese with bundle of Herbs
Romaine Salad with Ramps and Capers, Sauce of Spinach and Lamb’s Tongue
Roe Deer with Spinach and Ramson Butter
Aged Danbo Cheese with Honey, Goat-Cow’s Milk Cream Cheese, Beet Root with Viking Blue, Swedish Cheese Cracker and Fried Spelt Bread
Juniper Berries, Gooseberries and Black Currant Branches
Burnt Jerusalem Artichoke with Caramel and Hazelnut
“Nordic Vanilla” – Salsify
Aronia Berries and Yogurt, Beech Nut and Cocoa, Caramelized Bread and Cinnamon
Awarded two-stars by Michelin, but largely under-discussed by most culinary tourists visiting Copenhagen, AOC was chosen for dinner on Saturday largely to determine how it’s “rating” correlates with the rest of the city’s best, a sort of calibration to what the Red Guide is looking at in a city whose top-ranking cuisine is fairly new in terms of culinary history.
Located in an old Wine cellar on Dronningens Tværgade, the vaulted ceilings and low lighting creating a dramatically different look from the natural woods and earthen objects of other ‘New Nordic’ restaurants in Denmark, AOC is toqued by Chef Søren Selin who has run Christian Aarø’s kitchen since 2013, his menu offered as a 1,700DKK tasting or ‘a little less’ for 1,400, the longer experience totaling anywhere from 20-25 individual plates depending on the evening.
Far more formal than Kadeau, the Chefs here remaining in the kitchen and leaving not only the course descriptions but several tableside preparations to a team of young Women and Men who carefully balance showing some personality with professionalism, it was with seating offered at a table large enough for four that the meal quickly got started, a flurry of seven bites served sequentially highlighted by a crispy cigar of Sorrel wrapped around warm Rhubarb plus Cabbage and a deep fried nest of Reindeer Moss filled with a creamy puree of Chicken Liver and foraged Mushrooms.
Additionally enjoying two Vegetable duos, the differences in flavor far more notable side-by-side than one would be able to appreciate in isolation, the following course was a DIY-Crepe that was essentially a fun way to serve Beef Tartare while the follow-up of White Asparagus with torched Mornay was impressive in its simplicity, the clean snap of the barely heated stalk contrasting against the charcoal bittered but creamy coating.
Covering Snacks in about twenty minutes, the expediting here not quite that of Kadeau or Geranium but far better than most of Copenhagen’s kitchens where courses come at varying intervals with no discernible pattern, the proper menu began with a sizable green Turnip hulled out filled with a chilly potage of trimmed Oysters and herbal Granite that balanced iodine with bitterness amidst thick Cream, the follow-up of seared Sea Scallop and Daikon ‘Mille Feuille’ playing off a similar idea but bringing it up a few notches by way of pickled Asparagus, a welcome addition found in the fluffy Blue Mussel Bread at its side to soak up any remaining liquid.
Sending out Bread next, a sizable loaf of Spelt Sourdough that replaced the water component with a regional Beer that baked off slightly sweet and paired very nicely with two styles of Butter including one infused with Kelp, the following course was described as a restaurant signature and prepared tableside, the Salt-baked Onion cleaned and added to a base of sweet Onion Custard before being topped with a big spoonful of Golden Caviar, the combination expectedly intense with a long linger that likely would have been even better with the Juice or Wine pairing to help intermittently refresh the palate.
Seafood and Vegetable-centric like most of Copenhagen’s top tables, plates eleven and twelve presented Norwegian Crab in two distinctly different styles, the first a too-hot-to-touch grilled Leg served next to a burning bouquet with a saline Dipping Sauce while the second placed Shoulder Meat in the context of a Dumpling, the ‘skin’ made of Lardo and the broth an aromatic yet lightly flavored Kombu.
Getting heavier as the plates progressed, charred New Potatoes and Mushrooms in Cheese Foam a rich lead-in to grilled Greens served next to an emulsion of Lambs Tongue and Spinach Cream, the staff seemed particularly proud to present the meal’s final savory, the short hunting season for Roe Deer yielding an exceedingly lean piece of the Loin that was served rare under a slick of Spinach and Ramson Butter.
Putting together a fairly large collection of Cheeses, but only offering a Chef’s selection each day, Saturday night saw the kitchen send out 40-month Danbo that was sliced tableside and offered with Crackers, Honey and two additional composed selections, the folded Beet Root with Viking Blue particularly memorable, even if only for one bite.
Making a production of pre-Dessert, the Branches and Berries clipped and crushed with mortar and pestle before joining an intensely herbal Sorbet, it was actually the follow-up of Sunchoke ‘glass’ atop Caramel and Hazelnut Ice Cream that proved to be one of the best courses of the night, the earthiness just enough to balance the Sugar while the following bites of Salsify made to look and taste like Vanilla plus three Mignardises were all pleasant enough and a fitting continuation of the flavors most recent tasted.
Coffee nerds in the truest sense of the word, everything from the filtration system and brewing equipment to paying farms above-market value in order to secure the best Beans included, The Coffee Collective in Copenhagen is widely touted by locals and global aficionados as one of the best roasters in the world, the location at Torvehallerne sporting a line morning through evening despite prices that are nearly double that of other spots in the Market, not to mentions Espresso House or Starbucks just a few meters outside the doors in either direction.
Spoke of fondly by nearly everyone who has encountered the brew, relæ’s Christian Puglisi going so far as to dedicate a section in his “Book of Ideas” to how Roasters Casper Rasmussen and Jakob Dupont changed the way he thought about Water, it was alongside Pastries from Laura’s Bakery that a steamy 45DKK Gathugu Double Espresso was enjoyed on Sunday, the up-front flavor bold and bitter with a subtle bit of Berries that continued to develop as it cooled, a long linger of Caramel and just the slightest hint of acid.
Returning to the same place less than 24 hours later, another $6.93USD traded for a Double, The Coffee Collective’s Beans once again showed what true dedication to craft can yield, this time another Kenyan Bean titled Kieni showing bright citrus notes and a smooth texture that coated the palate, not quite as complex as the Gathugu but still better than the vast majority of what is out there, though perhaps subject to a case of diminishing returns for those who don’t really *love* Coffee considering the price-point.
Featuring several locations across Copenhagen, the most convenient for those visiting the city specifically to explore the dining scene a corner kiosk at Torvehallerne, Laura’s Bakery brings a bit of American sensibility to products that are by-and-large still Nordic, everything from traditional Crème Snegls and Sugared Rye offered next to Cookies and Cakes featuring the words “Red Velvet.”
Tucked away at the furthest end of the Market, a space adjacent The Coffee Collective seemingly a good fit as Laura’s offers no beverages while The Coffee Collective is so intensely focused on creating a perfect Cup that there is nothing else on the menu, those approaching Laura’s will first notice two large windows of Bread and Rolls with per-piece prices, a small plate of samples along the counter a novelty in Denmark and on this particular afternoon featuring a traditional Croissant that seemed a little soft plus a Custard-filled Roll.
Providing both pleasant service and free WiFi plus some seating, a bar along the window great for people watching but prone to bumps from those passing by, a look at Laura’s goods entailed a total of six items on this particular occasion, the unfrosted Cinnamon Swirl absolutely soaked with Butter and thus a little less texturally compelling than most while the sizable Chocolate Chip Cookie was the ideal combination of crisp rim and soft center, though those who prefer a nutless option are unfortunately out of luck.
Having already seen Jordbaerkage at both Lagkagehuset and a few other places, the Strawberry-Cream Tart apparently quite popular throughout Denmark, suffice it to say that this dish would likely be better off were it to use fresh Strawberries rather than those that are sugared and soggy, the Chocolate-shell on the bottom also not particularly enjoyable though the Fudge atop a piece of Caramel-centered Chocolate Cake was high quality, even if the texture is not what most would label a “brownie.”
Debating the Red Velvet briefly, but eventually deciding some things are better left for the places from which they are from, it was instead in a piece of Carrot Cake that 45DKK was invested, the base light in both taste as well as texture beneath smooth Frosting and crumbled Ginger while the item entitled “Fragilite” was something like a Mille-Feuille using Nougat between layers of Pastry Cream.
Fire baked Kohlrabi, Spinach, Black Currant Leaf and White Currant
Mahogany Clam, Apple, Fermented Wheat and Rosehip from Bornholm
Savoy Cabbage, Parsley, Sauerkraut, Cream and Oysters
Preserved Root Vegetables, Sea Trout Dashi and Salted Plums
Roasted Bread, Herb Butter infused with Cherry Wood Embers
Langoustine, Walnut, Red Berries and Lavender
Blue Mussel, Hemp, Rhubarb, Pine Buds, Cream
Green Asparagus, Lyme Grass, Nettles
‘What’s in the Garden Right Now’ Tartlet
White Asparagus, Havgus, Onion, Wood Ants
Grilled Danish Beef, Icelandic Kelp, Garden Pesto and Koji Butter
Lamb, Fermented Pumpkin, Gherkins and St. John’s Wort
Ymer, Buttermilk Fudge, Potato, Turnip and Sweet Cicely
Fermented Raspberries, Crème Fraiche, White Currant and Walnut Schnapps
Were it not for the nearby corporate offices one would hardly realize Kadeau was there, the tiny nameplate with a buzzer beside a blue door not exactly trying to draw attention to a place that many consider to be one of Copenhagen’s best places to dine, the spotlight on Nicolai Nørregaard’s restaurant at Wildersgade 10B shining brighter than ever as noma builds out its new space.
Originally opened in 2007, the manifesto describing a desire to “grow, harvest, preserve, serve and love” his native Bornholm, it was during the first of an eight-day visit to Denmark that a noontime visit was made to the restaurant that would be departing for home the following day, and although staff could not stop talking about the ‘working summer vacation’ over the course of two hours the meal enjoyed in the 2013 Christianshavn expansion was quite remarkable just the same.
Every bit a flag bearer of the New Nordic movement, the space itself beautiful yet minimalist with a lot of hand-worked wood and stone from the island, diners visiting Kadeau begin in the lounge where the experience starts with a seasonal juice, this day featuring Rhubarb and Angelica with a Whey thickener over an Ice sphere, a nice way to open up the palate with a balance of acid and herbal aromatics, a theme that would be seen several times more throughout the following courses.
Hosting a half-full dining room on this particular afternoon, the restaurant’s last service in the space for several months, it was upon transferring to a table that course two arrived as Miles Davis took over the soundtrack, the large Ice bowl containing small balls of Spinach-soaked Kohlrabi bitter and then smoky as wild Currants and their leaves provided a vibrant backdrop while the “200 year old” Mahogany Clam that sacrificed its life for the following course was given a very fond farewell by way of a fermented Wheat Crisp topped with tiny slices of Apple and wild Bornholm Rosehips.
Speaking exclusively English in both the kitchen and dining room, perhaps not unexpected as the clientele was entirely visitors from out of town, course three saw the kitchen present a fold of Savoy Cabbage around Oysters, housemade Sauerkraut and Cream that was both briny and sweet, the quick-to-follow Terrine of Root Vegetables playing well of the same ideas with chewy salt-packed Plums and a Broth made from the Bones of Sea Trout.
Serving Bread as a ‘course,’ one of those new fine dining ‘things’ that seems fairly silly but also requires a bit more thought than a Roll and some Butter, Kadeau’s offering consists of a roasted round made of Spelt served alongside Herb Butter infused with embers from the same fire, the flavor tangy like Sourdough and tasty on its own, but even better when enjoyed along with the next three plates including thin slices of Raw Langoustine and sweet Berries beneath shaved Walnuts lightly perfumed in Lavender.
Crossing the meal’s midway point with a gently cooked Mussel matched to Rhubarb, preserved Pine and Cream, instructions to eat it ‘like an oyster’ yielding a faintly sweet flavor that reminisced of the opening beverage, course nine was a perplexing plate of crispy Leaves served atop lightly cooked Asparagus tips, the taste a non-descript ‘vegetal’ without much else and seemingly a study of the textures involved rather than the flavors.
Continuing to parade the produce of Bornholm with a bitesize Tartlet entitled ‘What’s in the Garden Right Now,’ Nørregaard and his team create a powerful bite that is both woodsy and clean with a long linger of Sorrel and Cruciferous Vegetables, the following ‘White Asparagus with Wood Ants’ not as shocking as many make it out to be as the Vegetable, Cheese and Caramelized Onion do all the heavy lifting with the little bugs, when isolated, mostly just tasting like Lemon Zest.
More food than many tasting menus, the small bites all adding up thanks to the amount of fiber even for those not choosing to drink Juice or Wine, the last two savories at Kadeau center on locally raised and house-butchered meats, the Grilled Danish Beef going Peter Luger-style by topping the Tenderloin with Koji Butter and a bit of Salt while the Lamb Rib is served on the bone painted in preserved Pumpkin Paste, the heavily fermented flavor going well bite-for-bite with thinly sliced Gherkins, but less so with bitter sprigs of St. John’s Wort.
Warned that Dessert at Kadeau was rarely a highlight, the New Nordic style certainly not reliant on Sugar, Eggs or Cream, it was actually a pleasant surprise when course fourteen was presented, the tiny tart filled with Buttermilk a bit sour but well complimented by Caramelized Root Vegetable Chips, thick Cream and Chervil while the Fermented Raspberry dish was probably best described as aggressive, even the Chef’s Father’s Walnut Schnapps doing little to mitigate the one-two punch of tangy Crème Fraiche and acidic White Currants in their preserving Juices.
Danmarkskage – Mascarpone Cream, Vanilla, Rhubarb Compote, Almond Base with Strawberries
Sportskage – Crushed Nougat in Whipped Cream, Macaroon Base with Caramelized Choux
Opened in 1870 just off the Stroget and more than doubling in size from its original inception as its popularity has grown, Conditori La Glace has become a destination for both locals and tourists thanks to a collection of over a dozen Pastries and twenty Cakes available in whole or by the slice daily.
Family owned and operated from the start, now in its 6th generation, it was early Saturday that a stop was made at Skoubogade 3 as the second half of breakfast, an 08h20 arrival finding staff still in the process of setting out tables and chairs, though entry along with two other groups was nonetheless allowed with the traditionally-dressed all-female staff remarkably pleasant for so early in the morning.
Best known for their Cakes and Ice Cream, but also offering traditional Breakfast Pastries plus Macarons, it was after a quick summary of the sizable dining area that a seat was taken in a small booth looking straight at the register, an Almond Croissant plus the day’s second Danish quickly brought to the table while staff paraded the Cakes out from the kitchen with one in each hand to fill the window and glass cases.
Perceivably not updated in years, the Salmon-colored paint, worn carpets and gold trim all creating a cozy yet dated look, first bites of the Croissant showed a flaky Shell with good lamination and virtually no filling, the Almond really only a faint hint amidst all the Butter while the Danish presented the same Dough given less time to rise and filled with Raspberry Jam, a small circle of Icing plus a few Almond slivers.
Anticipating that the best was yet to come, tough choices and a couple of questions eventually yielding two Cake slices even though at least a dozen sounded great, those looking for something light and fruity would do well to order the Danmarkskage thanks to the combination of a thin Almond base with Vanilla Mascarpone Cream, sweet Rhubarb Compote and fresh Strawberries while every other first-time guest would be foolish to pass up the signature Sportskage, a lighter-than-you’d-ever-imagine masterpiece with a soft Macaroon base, hand-whipped Cream on top and a center that would be as smooth as silk were it not punctuated with tiny pieces of caramelized and crushed Nougat.
Learning quickly not to trust the online hours for several places in Copenhagen, Sankt Peders Bageri actually *not* open on Saturday, it was having just been to the airport location of Lagkagehuset less than ten hours prior that a visit was paid to the Café at Frederiksberggade 21 where an expanded selection of freshly baked items awaited.
Arriving earlier than the opening time of 07h30, the Danish Summer never really seeing the sun ‘set’ in favor of about five hours of twilight blue before it becomes light again, it was in the street with several youths still wrapping up their previous night that four patrons waited patiently for two clerks to finish stocking shelves and open the doors, the first trio opting for just one item each while the order that followed entailed six sweets and two savories, plus an unremarkable Americano that will set guests back about $6USD for a large.
Offering all the same items as CPH and then some, the majority of this larger collection consisting of Breads, Rolls and full-size Tarts, it was after some debate that items were boxed or plated, first bites of the Seed-coated Groft Speltstykke showing tangy Sourdough with a `springy consistency despite the visual lack of air bubbles while the shredded Carrots in Grov Gulerodsbolle added a touch of sweetness and moisture that saw the Roll eat like Ciabatta.
Eventually deciding to try bites of each item, a ‘some now and some for later’ plan that in reality saw the good ones eaten in their entirety and leftovers from subpar selections discarded, both the Rhubarb and Carrot Muffins showed fairly well, though not as good as the Banana from the prior night, the former in need of a little less sweetness while the latter was nice and moist, though the spices got lost in the Frosting.
Having already tasted both the Custard Danish and Cinnamon Swirl, though it was indeed tempting to see if either was even better straight out the oven, it was instead with the Strawberry Jam Danish and an Apple Cake that the tasting moved forward, the laminated Dough virtually indistinguishable from the first visit with a good flavor to the Strawberries while the “Cake” was actually more of a high-walled miniature Pie with a buttery Shell and soft-set center full of sliced Apples and even more Butter plus a touch of Cinnamon.
One again setting aside the famous Marsmallows, an item titled Romkugel described by the clerk as her favorite item at Lagkagehuset decided upon instead, suffice it to say that fans of Dark Rum may be better suited for this than someone who rarely drinks hard liquor, especially with a far better Chocolate-fix found in the Souffle Cake with a Brownie base beneath creamy Mousse, though for most it could probably do without the sour Gooseberry.
Featuring several locations across Denmark, the first one encountered in the post-security concourse at Copenhagen International Airport, Lagkagehuset has made a name for itself as one of the city’s best old-time bakeries, many of the recipes dating back a hundred years or more without a lot of novel items, the focus instead on traditional Danish Pastries.
Likened by locals to France’s Paul, a chain that is still rooted in tradition and thus willing to take some extra steps in order to produce baked goods worth going out of one’s way for as opposed to just an easy snack, it was admittedly a combination of convenience and nearly eighteen hours of travel that the stall at CPH was visited immediately after clearing customs, a 21h45 arrival finding the staff just beginning to clean up for the evening, but still smiling and happy to make a sale.
At this point in a bit of a hurry; baggage claim, a cab ride and hotel check-in still to follow, it was after a quick perusal of items both foreign and familiar that the decision was made to invest in a little of each, a 2-for-1 deal offered unexpectedly for Sugar Rye with a texture not unlike that of a Brownie and a slight sour taste that found its foil in chopped Nuts and Pearl Sugar.
Amused by the Danish labeling a “Danish” as a Danish, the Custard variety selected as opposed to Jam largely by default, fans of the style typically served in America will be happy to know that it differs little from that at Lagkagehuset, the laminated Bread baking up puffy with an eggy center plus sliced Almonds and a two ribbons of Icing.
Calling the Cinnamon Roll a Cinnamon ‘Swirl,’ the spice also featured in slices of Cake and a few other styles of Rolls or Buns, Lagkagehuset’s take on the popular Pastry uses the same Dough as that of the Danish coiled around Butter that becomes thick as the heats, the center almost a semi-solid Pudding by this time in the evening and exceedingly rich, even without a Cinnabon-esque ladle of Frosting.
Passing on the Truffles and Marshmallows for now, the last of the day’s Muffins beckoning even at such a late hour, it was with a noteworthy risk of dryness that both Blueberry and Banana were selected, the former a bit odd as it was more like the Dough had been infused with Blueberry Juice than a proper version with whole Berries while the Banana was just about as good as it gets, the inside still spongy despite a lot of over-ripe Fruit while the smooth Buttercream on top used Dark Chocolate instead of Milk to help counter the sweetness.
Located in The Queen’s Terminal of LHR, recent events in London making the process of getting there ever more laborious as all but those flying in or out of Terminal 2 will require the typical security check plus a purple suited escort both in and out of the concourse, it was with a bit of persistence that lunch was enjoyed at Heston Blumenthal’s The Perfectionists’ Café, the man behind The Fat Duck’s latest outpost focused on serving “fantastic Food fast.”
Notorious for a history in Molecular Cuisine, his scientific approach to flavor pairings must read material by way of the Fat Duck Cookbook and more recently on display in reconstructed versions of classic British recipes at Dinner, it was during a 7-day stay in Britain that both of those restaurants as well as Michelin starred The Hinds Head and The Crown at Bray all lived up to their billing, recent reviews raising hopes that the second floor spot at Heathrow could do the same.
Certainly not the storied house containing Heston’s flagship, nor the multi-million dollar space inside The Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park, The Perfectionists’ Café instead occupies a ledge overlooking the airstrip and upscale shopping concourses, a wood-fired oven turning out Pizzas stretched by hand just to the side of a Liquid Nitrogen Ice Cream Parlor as legs of Acorn-fed Spanish Ham also hang behind the counter as a temptation.
Open for Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner, nearly everything made on-site and the rest brought in from one of Blumenthal’s other kitchens, a first look at TPC’s menu reads like the typical ‘everything to everyone’ airport restaurant, though those looking closer will find more than what they bargained for including Beer Batter aerated by a siphon and an ever changing list of ingredient-inspired Cocktails the likes of which are rarely seen outside of fine dining venues.
Best suited for early arrivers and those on a layover, the definition of ‘fast’ here approximately fifteen minutes between order and delivery with most of the items not particularly amenable to being consumed in the tightly packed seats of coach, it was after a warning from the waiter that three plates would be “too much” food that the items were nonetheless presented, first bites of the ‘great marriage from extreme ends of the British Isles’ showing great attention to detail as the outside was golden crisp over smooth black Sausage while the yolk was lightly cooked and creamy.
Certainly not a cheap meal, though not particularly overpriced when accounting for quality and a captive audience, it was with mustardy Piccalilli set aside that attention shifted to the “Extraordinary Fish & Chips” featuring an ample filet of Line-caught Cod delicately coated in Batter and served alongside Blumenthal’s world-class fried Potatoes, each of them every bit as good as those tasted at The Crown in 2014 and here gussied up with a fragrant garnish applied via spray bottle.
Typically not fond of Mushy Peas, though the Mint here was far more subtle than many, it was admittedly tough to choose between Pizza, Chicken Tikka Masala or the Hoisin Duck Burger for the meal’s final savory, the decision eventually coming down to the fact that the Guiseppe Pie features housemade ‘Nduja Sausage and DOP Mozzarella di Bufala that perform particularly well atop a lightly charred crust covered in confit Tomatoes.
Sipping a creamy Milkshake throughout the meal, several flavors available but bitter Orange Marmalade mixed with Milk steeped with brown Bread and Vanilla Nitro-Ice Cream certainly the most striking, it was with a texture almost like Cool-Whip that the meal finished up, but not before a £4.25 wedge of Carrot Cake that seemed as though it was made of nothing more than Fruits, Vegetables and Nuts with the crushed Pineapple playing quite well off the spices and Pecans soaked in a sugary Liquor.
Bananas Foster Pancakes – Buttermilk Short Stack, Brown Sugar and Orange Rum Glaze, Vanilla Whipped Cream
Buffalo Chicken Loaded Fries – ‘Chicken & What’ Bites, White French Dressing, Blue Cheese Crumbles, Shaved Carrots and Celery
CK Monkey Bread
Banana Chocolate Chip Loaf
Lemon Raspberry Loaf
Blueberry Muffin
Cinnamon Roll
Pecan Sticky Bun
Carrot Cake
Now more than a year and a half in business, the crowds still present even as other nearby restaurants have come and gone, CRAFTkitchen from Jaret and Tami Blinn proved a near-ideal stop en route from Las Vegas to San Bernardino for a concert, the 220-mile drive and 9-hours in 101°F temperatures with little shade fortified by new items from the Weekend Brunch menu plus several Pastries, a restaurant that already sets the bar high finding an extra level rather than resting on its laurels.
Already visited several times for both Breakfast and the recently launched Friday Happy Hour, the food which has been universally excellent despite remaining broadly appealing a testament to Chef Blinn’s skills honed at Red Rock prior to taking a chance on the space previously inhabited by Bread and Butter, it was with the Chef taking a needed break to coach his boys’ traveling baseball team that two old friends sat down at one of the windowside booths, locally born n’ raised Manager Devin keeping an eye on one of the most consistent off-Strip waitstaffs in all of Las Vegas or Henderson.
Improving the restaurant soundtrack with each visit, Weezer’s Say It Ain’t So followed by Phil Collins’ That’s All playing lightly overhead as the menu was perused, it was with the first of several Iced Coffees from Colorado River Roasters that choices were made, a trio of new Pastries sent out in the form of two lightly fried Cronuts plus a Strawberry Pop-Tart that continues to one-up artisan versions elsewhere by way of being crisp like the Kellogg’s original, but stuffed with naturally sweet Fruit without trending over to Toaster Strudel territory by getting over-frosted or soggy.
Recently adding a savory option to the ever-changing list of Kouign Amann, the laminated layers holding up nicely to Ham and Cheese that could have benefitted from just a touch more Salt, it was next in two Brunch specials and a previously unnoticed Omelet that $10.95 to $13.50 was invested, the house-braised Pork intensely spicy inside the fold of three Cage-free Eggs but mellowed by Tomatillo Salsa, Cheese and Lime Cream while the fried Chicken found itself tossed amidst Buffalo Sauce, vinegary white Dressing and Blue Cheese atop thin-cut French Fries and shaved Vegetables that tasted great, and was assuredly portioned sharing.
Happily tucking into the can’t miss CK Monkey Bread and Jaret’s Bananas Foster Pancakes, an improvement on whatever Jack Johnson may have been singing about thanks to the addition of Brown Sugar and Orange Rum Glaze plus house-whipped Cream to the fluffy stack covered in sautéed Fruit, it was along the I-15 that a box of to-go Pastries was investigated, all of these items old favorites and highlighted by the softly spiraled Pecan Sticky Bun as well as Sin City’s best Carrot Cake, whether in a full Birthday Cake portion as it was in April or here, made bite-size.
FIVE STARS: Better with each visit, and now proving to be just as well CRAFTed even when the Chef is (rarely) absent, anyone who has not been to CRAFTkitchen owes it to themselves to stop in for Breakfast or Lunch, the whole menu offered seven days a week and far better than anything found at The Cracked Egg , Babystacks or Egg & I.
RECOMMENDED: Pop Tart, CK Monkey Bread, Pecan Sticky Bun, Pork Carnitas Omelet, any of the Pancake Specials, Plain Cronut.
AVOID: N/A, though a touch more salt on the Ham & Cheese Kouign Amann would have made the flavors pop against the buttery Pastry.
TIP: As always, keep an eye on @craftkitchenLV on social media for menu updates, weekend specials and happy hour offers.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
