Part B&B and part Bakery, the two separated by several hundred meters with the later up a flight of stairs and tucked away in an alley, it was after a twenty minute walk from Torre Dorada that two guests sat down for breakfast at Pantastico, a multi-lingual server originally from Switzerland performing triple duty as Barista, cashier and busser as patrons came and went with the majority not fluent in Spanish.
Essentially a Coffee Shop and retail outlet for the Hotel, the reason for their separation not entirely clear but a bit confusing to those reliant on Google Maps, it was after perusing options and setting aside two options featuring Passionfruit that five items were selected with all but one quickly rewarmed in the Microwave, the Vegetable Pastry featuring Tomatoes and Peppers good though the Cheese had not melted entirely while a Chicken and Onion Empanada fared better thanks to bold spicing and bits of Chicken Skin that gave the interior added texture.
Told that only local ingredients are used in Pantastico’s products, Chocolate labeled as 70% Cocoa from Peru forming the partially-melted center of a Roll that was described as a “Croissant” despite lacking any evidence of lamination, those interested in something even more chocolaty would do well to order a slice of Cake that eats something like an aerated Brownie while fans of Citrus should set their sights on Lemon Cake that is moist and tangy with only a touch of sweetness added by way of the Frosting.
Traditional Andean Bread with Pineapple Jam and Peanut Butter
Quinoa Porridge with Brown Sugar, Coconut Cookies, Plantain Cake
Selected for its full-service reservations to Machu Picchu and excellent customer service it was on the morning of departure for Lima that Breakfast was taken at Torre Dorada Hotel, the Ham Sandwich with store-bought Bread, Banana and Juice they’d packed for lunch one day prior an admitted disappointment but the collection of Cereals, Pastries and Porridge faring better while Omelets prepared on request for other guests also looked nicely made.
Lomo Saltado alo Criollo – Stir Fry Beef, Tomatoes, Onions, French Fries, White Rice
Baked Guinea Pig, Papas Doradas, Criolla Salad
Plantain Pancake with 62% Peruvian Chocolate Sauce
Guayaba and Cocona Pancake with 62% Peruvian Chocolate Sauce
For all of its wonder and tourist traffic Aguas Calientes is no dining destination, the base camp for over 400,000 annual visitors to Machu Picchu instead doubling down on tourist traps and cheap souvenirs which led two sun-burnt visitors to Inka Grill House after hiking the Citadel.
Situated on the East end of town and empty at 3:00pm, the Chef and his staff of two watching televised Soccer from Spain on arrival, it was with friendly smiles that guests were welcomed and offered a seat, Wine and glasses already present but declined in favor of Bottled Water as menus were perused.
Offering a list of Peruvian Classics with occasional Mexican plates, the later likely catering to travelers unwilling to explore indigenous cuisine, it was after asking a few questions and walking through the kitchen to a restroom that makes it seem like the owner lives an attached apartment that two appetizers and an entrée were ordered, each taking quite a while to come out as the stone oven and antique stove had both been extinguished.
Watching the Chef and his assistant work while waiting, the wood-fired oven started with an old Samsung television box warming as Appetizers were prepared from scratch, it was alongside two warm Tortillas stuffed with grilled Alpaca that the trip’s first true Lomo Saltado arrived, the combination of Beef, Fries and Rice not dissimilar to Fajitas in terms of flavor while the makeshift Burritos showed why lean and chewy Pack Animals are probably not eaten in North America or Western Europe.
Mindful of time due to a train back to Cusco at 4:35, the oven slowly coming to temperature thanks to damp air from a recent rainfall, it was nearly an hour after sitting down that baked Cuy arrived with crispy Potatoes topped in creamy Dressing, the ‘picture worth a thousand words’ idea of a Pet on the plate expectedly not dissimilar from Rabbit beneath an herbal dry rub and certainly nothing craveable unless one has a cultural attachment to it.
Tricked by menu pictures into thinking Panqueque were slices of Cake, the Spanish speaker at the table only voicing her opinion several minutes later, it was with time as an issue that two rolled Pancakes were taken via Styrofoam clamshells to the train, the Plantain version lodging a Jack Johnson song in the brain for several hours while Guava and Coconut were a tropical treat whether eaten alone or topped in melted local Chocolate.
Chocolate Balloon – Crunchy Broad Bean Bomb, Clay Oven Apple Filling, Cinnamon Foam, Loche Ice Cream, Toffee Sauce with Maras Salt
Alfajors
Although his name might not be as well-known as many celebrity Chefs there is no doubt Peruvian food would not be where it is today without Gaston Acurio, he and wife Astrid Gutsche making their mark at Lima’s Astrid & Gaston before opening several other Restaurants including Chicha in Cusco.
Considered by many to be a more casual entry point to the couple’s globally-influenced Cuisine, the website’s proclamation that “Chicha is about regional food: the produce, traditions and culture from each location elevated with good culinary techniques” doing a fair job of describing local ingredients prepared in a variety of manner that embrace lands as far off as China, it is quickly upon entering the second floor space that guests are led to tables between Bar and Kitchen in a room decorated with dried vegetation.
Open from noon to 10:30pm daily, a bilingual staff essential as the vast majority of diners are travelers en route to Machu Picchu, it was without uttering a word that menus written in English were provided with sections labeled “Starters, Main Dishes and Desserts,” a basket featuring two styles of Bread soon brought out alongside balls of Butter blended with vibrant Red Peppers.
Not planning on a large meal after a full day of eating and traveling plus an early wake-up call to the Incan Citadel upcoming, the decision to partake in only Appetizers and Desserts allowing for a wide variety of tastes without being overwhelming, it was with the room less than 1/4 full that the kitchen quickly sent forth a creamy Corn Soup afloat with Pork Belly and Beans divided into two bowls, the flavors subtle but pleasant and a good lead-in to thinly shaved Alpaca Flesh dressed in traditional Cipriani Dressing plus local Potatoes, Herbs and Flowers.
Taking a second look at Cuy to follow, the Peruvian delicacy in this instance cooked crisp and served with housemade Pancakes plus Condiments akin to what one might receive with Peking Duck, those looking for something a bit less exotic would do well to request the “Chicha Platter,” an Appetizer suggested for sharing that includes traditional grilled Cow’s Heart, Crispy Pork and Potatoes plus Pastries stuffed with Beef.
Offering a wide variety of local Coffee drinks to finish, a Double Espresso over Ice apparently novel to the server, it was keeping in mind an advisory that the Chocolate Balloon “takes a while to prepare” that it plus another Dessert were requested, the tableside pour of Chocolate and melting dome that gives way to a treasure-trove of flavors and textures expectedly drawing the eyes of spectators but the fried Cream infused with Coca Leaves and complimentary Alfajors both holding their own with the former particularly delicate and the Ice Cream atop flavored a lot like toasted Oats with just a hint of sweetness.
In need of a recharge after an early morning flight and hours wandering the streets of Cusco it was at La Valeriana that two guests stopped on Monday afternoon, the space popular with tourists from around the world proving well-suited in its role as a place to relax and linger over Coffee and Dessert.
One of at least two locations in the city that frequently acts as a base for travelers en route to Machu Picchu, the economy a mix of the poor and the privileged with visible disparity, it is at a distance that most will realize that La Valeriana makes no attempt to distinguish itself as a place offering local cuisine, the Pastries all stylish while white and wood décor is similar to what one might see in an advertisement for Pottery Barn.
Laid out left to right, counters and cases full of Pastries backed by bilingual service directing traffic towards a seating area where guests wait for their orders, it was after lengthy perusal that three items were requested in addition to an Americano and Double Espresso, the total of just over 40 Sol a veritable bargain when taking into consideration the size and presentation.
Using locally roasted Beans to their benefit for a Caramel-accented cup of Coffee, the smoothness making for easy drinking without any added Sweetener, it was at the request of the lady at the table that a “Naked” Unicorn Cake was first tasted and found to be moist yet not too heavy, the Buttercream Frosting lightly fruity and in good proportion while both the Brownie and Tres Leches took a less-subtle path to success, the former thick and rich with Toffee balanced by toasted Walnuts while the latter was wet but not soaked and layer-for-layer highlighted by Meringue on top and Manjar Blanco in between.
Not taking much time to get checked in at Torre Dorada it was by way of the hotel’s car service that Mercado Central de San Pedro was ready for exploration, its sizable footprint not evident from the exterior but unveiled just inside doors that harbor hundreds and hundreds of stands selling everything from whole Cow Stomachs to souvenir Llama Pens.
At this point a well-known tourist destination that remains equally pertinent to daily Cusqueña culture, the exchange of Legumes, dried Potatoes and fresh Vegetables or Bread for Sol taking place from early morning until late, those wishing to experience Sann Pedro for all it is would be well advised to allocate at least two hours for exploration and to equally set aside American ideas of hygiene or what is “safe” to eat.
Divided loosely into sections, clothing from handmade to cheaply manufactured allocated to the side opposite Food, it was after haggling for items such as a head-scarf that several fresh Juice vendors were passed en route to the aisle full of Breads, each old woman in traditional dress trying to out-holler the other in order to sell items such as traditional Chancay Bread or a flat Pastry not dissimilar to a Pop Tart but infused with the distinct taste of Licorice.
Spending just 1 Sol for three Cornmeal Cookies also perfumed in Anise before moving onward, several indigenous ingredients unidentifiable even to those who’ve done a fair amount of global dining, it was with eyes wide but a brain and stomach mindful of dinner that only a few items were tasted from cooked Food Stalls, a woman with Cakes on a cart convincing patrons in English that her Marmalade Cake was “delicioso” found to be correct while a kyphotic proprietor further along served up a heaping bowl of warm Arroz con Leche that was creamy and comforting for just $1.67USD.
Located almost directly across from Panaderia Carmelitas it seemed only logical to stop by Don Mamino en route to Jorge Chavez International Airport, the Bakery and Restaurant far larger than its nearby competition but the items ordered not on par with them, let alone the likes of El Pan de la Chola, Puku Puku Cafe, San Antonio or La Mora.
Apparently yet another of Lima’s multi-location Bakeries, at least nine stores turning out Breads, Desserts and Cafeteria-style Sandwiches according to the website, it was with several patrons already present that arriving guests were left to explore a collection of goods extending across racks and cases, many out of place such as Tiramisu and others obviously mass-produced based on appearance.
Not exactly the friendliest Restaurant in Lima, staff mostly huddled to one side excluding waiters serving the Café, it was after a few moments perusal that items were gathered from their various locations, the reheated Chicken Empanada first disappointing by being dry and mealy despite a pleasant spice profile.
Moving on to sweeter things, two Pan Dulce plucked from a countertop followed by one bagged Brownie, suffice it to say that those looking for Viennoiserie in Peru would be well-advised to walk right by unless they enjoy canned Apple Compote and flaccid Dough while the Brownie was not at all moist and dense but rather like a day-old slice of Cake.
Known by locals as Lima’s best spot for Pan Francés and Chicharron Sandwiches it was for Breakfast on Monday that a stop was made at Panaderia Carmelitas in Miraflores, an ordering area near the door, dearth of a menu and no English-speaking staff making the ordering process a bit laborious for visitors but a few minutes observation sorting things out to a total of five items including two duplicates.
Located near a large Hospital as well as Don Mamino Bakery, accolades dating back a decade still seeing a small queue plus several guests seated at tables as early as 7am, it was with less than 30 Sol paid that each dish was bagged or boxed separately, their subsequent consumption outside beginning with a piping hot Empanada stuffed with Eggs, Onions and nicely seasoned Beef that further benefitted from a shake of Confectioner’s Sugar atop the buttery Pastry.
Bound for Cusco at 11am, the other items enjoyed en route to the airport, it was largely a matter of Panaderia Carmelitas’ limited selection that saw two caramelized Orejas ordered in addition to the Empanadas and a square of Bread Pudding, the latter heavily saturated by Citrus and visible curls of Orange Zest with a faintly nutty finish.
With the majority of Lima’s top dining destinations closed on Sunday it was in search of the city’s best Chinese Food that a taxi was bound for San Isidro, Chifa Titi at Av Javier Prado Este 1212 said to be the most impressive location for a style of Food that is quite similar to “American Chinese” in that it is the creation of an ancient culture adapting to local ingredients and palates.
Seeing the word Chifa on no less than a hundred Restaurants during a long day of walking, everything from hole-in-the-wall ten-seaters to elaborate two-story buildings included, the story of Chifa Cuisine apparently began in the late 1800s when a labor shortage after the termination of slavery saw Chinese immigrants cross the Pacific to harvest Sugar Cane, the subsequent centuries developing a fascination with Food that remains distinct though at the same time quintessentially Peruvian.
Not exactly located in Lima’s nicest neighborhood, the best route undeniably via highway as opposed to side streets, it was moments prior to a 7:00pm reservation made by phone that a table was found ready, polished black surfaces and mirrors giving the place a very modern feel while bilingual menus are thankfully provided as the staff speaks little to no English.
No doubt a popular place amongst locals, the clientele dining early largely Asian with a large table of Spanish speakers arriving around 8:30, it was after perusing a menu of 24-pages that decisions were made, a large pitcher of cold Jasmine Tea priced lower than bottled Water elsewhere and dining soon to begin with Fried Chicken that was sort of bland until dipped in a Citrus Sauce with light spiciness and a slightly bitter aftertaste.
Serving portions best suited for groups, each entrée better described as a platter, it was while sitting and listening to nondescript music overhead that three additional plates arrived simultaneously, both Stir Fries slicked in Soy and lighter in Oil than those found Stateside while a dish described as “Orange Duck” actually placed the crispy skinned Fowl beneath Kumquats with sticks of fried Yucca at the bottom.
Without doubt a better place for group dining than couples or solos, portion sizes and prices both considered, it was from a limited number of sweets that Red Bean Buns were selected as a fitting end to the meal, a thick Paste without much Sugar forming the sticky center to three Dim Sum favorites that were clearly homemade given their visible seams and textural heterogeneity.
Staying in Miraflores it was only a matter of time before daily walks would feature a stop at Puku Puku Café, the tiny storefront peddling Coffee and Pastries produced at a newer location in San Isidro proving a timely break after sightseeing on Sunday when a curly haired Barista rocking out to music overhead happily created a thick and creamy Frapuccino for one guest before pouring a glass flask of Cold Brew made that day over Ice for another.
Named after the word “Bird” and featuring its logo prominently on swag, a total of four locations in Lima each offering three single origin brews from micro-producers, guests entering the original Puku Puku Café will likely first be surprised by the close confines, though once a first sip of the brew is taken there is no doubt the place is big time, light acidity quickly melting away and replaced by smooth Caramel flavor that lingers.
Moving on to Pastries, a small midday selection at this location more than tripled in San Isidro where Sandwiches additionally join the menu, it was largely a result of not understanding Spanish that saw Passion Fruit Cake ordered alongside two other items, the “Maracuya” not as cloying as usual but still not fitting this palate as well as Coffee-infused Alfajors or Triple Chocolate Cake made with Cocoa from Cusco.
Currently ranked eighth on S. Pellegrino’s controversial list, a move ahead of Central to Number One on the recent Latin America rankings leading one to assume that a promotion is coming in 2018 (or that Central is on the decline,) it was for lunch on Sunday that two seats were taken at Maido’s counter, Chef Mitsuharu ‘Micha’ Tsumura not present and service a bit sluggish while the Food was good, though not revelatory.
Self-described as “Fusion Cuisine,” the Japanese influence on Peruvian gastronomy dubbed Nikkei forming the backbone of a tasting menu served alongside several pages of a la carte options, guests arriving at Maido are encouraged to climb a staircase where each is greeted with “Maido,” the welcome coming from all directions including Chefs, servers and even guests seated below hanging ropes in the design of a Japanese flag when viewed as a whole.
Born in Lima and subsequently trained in both America and Japan, Tsumura’s return to Peru seeing him open Maido to little fanfare but subsequently building an empire extending all the way to Chile, it was after several minutes reviewing the menu that a decision was made to participate in the “Nikkei Experience” with supplements, Cocktails and Wine available but a drink named simply “T” proving a good fit to most plates.
A destination Restaurant that also features prominently in Miraflores power-lunch sector, Sunday reservations actually more accessible than those on Weekdays, it was after nearly thirty minutes of sitting and listening to countless Maidos that dining began with a collection of “Snacks,” the spicy Egg Custard most memorable while two types of Ceviche came after, the a la carte Nissei outperforming a Mackerel version served as part of the tasting largely on the strength of its fried elements.
Moving next to a trio of two-bite dishes, the Cephalopod and Snails bolstered by crispy Quinoa while Pork Belly Bao seemed somewhat ordinary despite being well executed, those looking for something more “Sushi” will be pleased to know Nigiri is offered both a la carte and as part of The Experience, the Toro decent but not as good as some while thinly Scallops atop lightly seasoned Rice proved that Peru also believes Uni, in this case emulsified and torched, can improve almost anything.
Receiving a latticed iteration of Gyoza with spicy Ponzu during a break in the tasting, each Dumpling nicely crafted and packed with ground Meat, it was for course six that Maido crossed over to Modernist Cuisine by way of frozen Ceviche featuring Clams, the follow-up offering crispy Guinea Pig Skin and Flesh stood upright in Cauliflower Puree awash in Garlic.
A traditional progression from light to heavy, Miso-glazed Cod given a facelift by way of Mushrooms and Apple faring well despite its familiarity, it was alongside the a la carte Rice Tamale with crispy Shrimp that course ten arrived in cast iron, the broth added tableside bubbling for the next several minutes and difficult to eat without burning one’s hand when spooning the Fish and Seaweed out of their vessel.
Convinced to order Ramen by a tablemate, the sizable bowl justifying its cost with silky Broth and plenty of springy Noodles plus Eggs and Pork Belly, it was as she slurped away that two additional plates rounded out savories, the 50-hour Short Rib taking diners in all directions from fatty to crispy and sweet to spicy while Rice cooked like Risotto with Uni and Avocado was a standout dish with immense depth of flavor and expected richness.
Continuing to embrace the landscape with Dessert, an a la carte menu never requested but two dishes concluding the Nikkei Experience, it was from the mind of Chef Dalila Arevalo that nitrogen-frozen “Bread Sand” was added to Tofu Ice Cream and textural elements, various Boba made from Amazonian Fruits refreshing the palate in preparation for a rock covered in foam that revealed a “Mussel” made of Chocolate atop a bed of Ice Cream and Sorbet made from indigenous Fruits.
With only a small Breakfast at La Lucha Sangucheria Criolla and several hours until lunch it was up Av Jose Larco that Sunday morning progressed, a stop at local–favorite Manolo by far the most disappointing stop on a trek through Lima’s gastronomy both in terms of the service and what was served.
Open since 1968 and best known for affordable Peruvian Sandwiches plus a wide variety of sweets it was just past 9:00am that a man standing behind the counter motioned for guests to take a seat at one of several open tables, he and his colleagues clearly more interested in discussing the day’s gossip than taking care of a few early guests or filling cases with a variety of Cakes, Pies or Churros.
Low priced and equally short on atmosphere, the longer-than-wide layout making seats toward the rear stuffy in Lima’s moist air, it was without much attention to the menu that three styles of Churro plus two slices of Pie were requested along with bottled Water, five sticks of fried Dough soon to arrive dressed in nothing more than a shake of Granulated Sugar that loosely clung to Oil that seemed a bit less fresh than one would expect in the morning.
More than a bit underwhelmed by the Churros compared to Mexico City or Barcelona, a version stuffed with Chocolate faring better while the Cream version requested never arrived, it was with two large slices from the Pastry case that things improved somewhat, the Pecan wedge almost 100% Nuts beneath a layer of Fruit Glaze far more subtle than those found in the United States while Meringue riddled with Prunes laid on its side beneath a ladle of Sweet Cream, the browned top holding up well and admittedly delicious though the bottom and center were a bit too soggy to be equally enjoyable.
If one walks around Miraflores or San Isidro for more than an hour it is likely they will happen upon a branch of La Lucha Sangucheria Criolla, the frequently 24-hour quick-service Restaurant with several locations including flagships at Diagonal 308 and Pasaje Marcelino Champagnat 139 often featuring a line but their new shop at Av Jose Larco 999 far more relaxed and the focus of breakfast on Sunday morning.
Part of a large Restaurant group and far younger than the likes of McDonald’s, Subway or other American imports, the eldest storefront apparently still less than a decade old, La Lucha Sangucheria Criolla focuses on Peru’s long tradition of a Sandwich style known as “La Lucha,” each franchise baking its own Rolls on-site and stacking them high with a variety of toppings.
Laid out with a counter up front and seating both indoors and out, the Spanish menu displayed boldly overhead, it was with warm smiles from a woman acting as a greeter that guests were welcomed just prior to 8am, fluency in the native tongue helpful but not essential in crafting an order consisting of two Sandwiches plus Fries plus a Soursop slushy and the Juicy Fruit flavored Soda seen throughout Peru, now offered with zero calories.
Taking a seat with a number in-hand, each Sandwich made-to-order and Meats visibly being roasted in a cleanly open kitchen, it was no more than ten minutes after approximately $16USD was paid that everything arrived along with a variety of Sauces, the “Golf” akin to creamy Cocktail Sauce standing out on crispy oiless fried Potatoes while Roast Pork was fine, though a bit bland, and certainly not as delicious as a fried version with crispy Skin juxtaposing melted Cheese and vibrant Criolla Salsa.
Mero Murike Ceviche – Red Onion, Lemon, Salt from Cusco, Cerezo Chiles, Limo Chiles, Toast, Salsa
Sauteed Day boat Sea Bass – Red Onions, Fried Plantains, Tomatoes, Squash, Cocona Sauce, Crispy Rice, Green Peas
Chirimpico of Baby Goat and Loche Squash Stew – Goat Tripe Chiclayo Style
Organic Rancho del Conde Duck Chiclayo Style – Cast Iron Rice, Squash, Peas
Salad of Onions, Radishes, Limo Chile Cream
Picarones – Honey-Fig Sauce, Membrillo
The Earth Cycle – Loche Squash Ice Cream, Brownie “Soil,” Herbs and Flowers
Having spent the afternoon exploring Amazonian cuisine at ÁmaZ it was to another region of Peru that eyes turned for Dinner on Saturday, Chef Hector Solís’ Fiesta focusing on Moche cuisine from the North and reinventing traditional peasant plates into fine dining amidst modern environs in Miraflores.
Another restaurant focused on regionality of cooking as well as product, Hector’s roots in Chiclayo giving him a deep appreciation of the Food of his childhood where the Solis family first opened a place called Fiesta some three decades prior, 2018 now sees Fiesta Lima entering its 22nd year at Av Reducto 1278, the building basically hidden save for a small sign amidst a mostly residential neighborhood.
Largely empty at the start of business but soon to pick-up, the overhead soundtrack humorously flipping twice to Christmas songs throughout the course of a 140-minute meal, it was with a Glass of Chilean White plus tableside Pisco Sour and Bottled Water that the evening got underway quickly, an amuse described as Marraqueta not dissimilar to a Gougere in terms of flavor though more like a Dinner Roll in terms of texture.
Decorated in traditional artwork plus a statue of Jesus in contrast to the space’s contemporary Bar, though all four of the family’s Restaurants are reportedly quite different, it was after some discussion with pleasant bilingual servers that the decision was made to dine plate-by-plate, an opening volley of meaty Grouper served raw and ready to be bathed in Acid amongst the best Ceviche tasted during eight days in Peru thanks to an ability to customize one’s own Tiger Milk while the follow-up of Line-caught Sea Bass got a little lost in the rich Cocona Sauce, though a side of crispy Rice was great both on its own and with the accompanying Vegetables.
Clearly showing a passion for tradition by placing several Chiclayo home-style dishes at the menu’s center, the Goat Ribs said to be “very special” even as eyes wandered elsewhere, suffice it to say that those unafraid of something a little funky would be well-advised to order a portion of the dish titled “Chirimpico” featuring braised Goat and its Offal plus Loche Pumpkin in fragrant yellow Sauce while no one should consider leaving Fiesta without a cast iron pot of local Duck atop Vegetables and Coriander Rice that cooks crunchy like a Paella around the edges.
Turning the party over to Fiorella Vidal for Dessert, this menu too a mix of heritage and modernity, it was alongside feather-light Squash Doughnuts ready to be bathed in Honey that an elegant dish called “The Earth Cycle” was offered, subtle Loche Squash Ice Cream covered in painted White Chocolate offering a striking contrast to crumbled Dark Chocolate Cake and thin Candy squiggles.
Although Chef Pedro Miguel Schiaffino honed his skills outside of Peru, a formal education from CIA Hyde Park furthered in Italy at the likes of Dal Pescatore, there are few men who have done as much to advance the public’s knowledge of a region’s cuisine than he has the Amazon, first at Malabar and since 2013 at ÁmaZ.
Described by many as an ‘otherworldly’ sort of experience, a convivial atmosphere created by over one hundred seats surrounded by bright colors and jungle touches, ÁmaZ resides in Miraflores at Av La Paz 1079 toward the far end of a row of restaurants, guests entering its doors during daylight likely to find the vibe fairly laid back with bilingual menus and servers who seem as dedicated as Schiaffino himself to tell a tale.
To this day still the only restaurant of its kind, the Chef’s fascination with traditional ingredients and techniques rarely seeing him in the kitchen as opposed to foraging the jungle or working with his organization Despensa Amazónica in support of Peru’s indigenous people, it was shortly after ÁmaZ’s 12:30pm opening that a table was offered either in the bright lobby or secluded upstairs, bottled water poured quickly and non-alcoholic Cocktails soon to follow, both blending Amazonian Fruit with Ice and quenching thirst created by Lima’s humid air.
As much a passion project as a place to eat, both the menu and staff going to great lengths to speak of Schiaffino’s how’s and why’s, it was with jars of Peppers in Oil plus several dips that tables were soon laden, Breads made of mashed Yucca and Crackers of its “Tapioca” joined by flattened and fried Plantains plus tangy Salsa made from the tropical shrub Cocona that tastes something like Barbecue Sauce.
Esoteric but accessible, a few more ‘familiar’ dishes offered for every one like ÁmaZ ‘s signature “Churos Pishpirones,” anyone with an adventurous spirit would be well-advised to order one-each of the fist-sizes Snails simmered in Chorizo with Turmeric and Amazonian Chiles, the result heated but not “spicy” while Wild Boar folded inside fried Yucca comes across fairly similar to roast Pork, particularly when dipped in the accompanying Juice that yields a taste reminiscent of Cochinita Pibil.
Using the Amazon to update several Peruvian staples, ÁmaZ’s Ceviche pairing meaty Snakefish with cooked Plantains in Acid made lively by indigenous Onions and Peppers, those seeking something more hearty are encouraged to investigate either one of Schiaffino’s traditional Stews or the popular Lomo Saltado, the first unwrapped and brilliant with crispy Duck atop lightly sweetened Rice while the latter again modifies a classic by replacing Fried Potatoes with Plantains and balances the additional sugar with smoked Pork.
No less innovative with Dessert, a fusion approach presenting familiar dishes crafted from Amazonian ingredients, it was with a tableside presentation of large Limes and a football-sized Macambo that Pie and Profiteroles were served, the torched top of the former balancing assertive Citrus while next to it crisp Choux hugged three balls of cocoa-scented Ice Cream soon to be drizzled with thick Sauce featuring Dark Chocolate from Cahuana plus Acai, the more celebrated of the dish’s ‘superfoods.’
With Lima’s humidity consistently hovering somewhere between 70-10,000% it seems fairly safe to say beverages like Chicha Morada and Inka Cola are as much a product of the environment as they are local tastes, so when an early morning mission led two visitors to Wong Supermarket a sign reading Palettas on the first floor of Calle Monte Bello 150 shined brightly, no less than thirty all-natural flavors available for approximately $2.50-3.00 USD each.
Advertised as a healthy treat loaded with Vitamins, Minerals and Antioxidants at just 90 calories in a handful of shopping centers around town, this specific kiosk manned by a friendly Spanish-speaking youth beginning at 10am, it was after several minutes of indecision that the first of two rounds were selected, an icy “Multifruita” not dissimilar to a Bomb Pop save for the embedded Citrus and Kiwi while Arroz con Leche offered a creamy mouthfeel and light sweetness underneath a lot of Cinnamon.
Impressed enough to go for seconds, a Chocolate-Raspberry Heart and Popsicles shaped like Smiles or Bears standing out for the ‘gram, it was instead in Pinkberry-esque Yogurt packed with Blueberries that the tasting continued, a follow-up of Tres Leches proving the best of all thanks to Condensed Milk and light Cream ribboned by Manjar Blanco.
Noted by almost every food-savvy person in Peru as Lima’s best place for Bread it was early Saturday morning that a stop was made at El Pan de la Chola, self-taught Baker Jonathan Day’s quaint space at La Mar 918 teaming with activity both at the tables packed with customers and in the kitchen where no less than a half dozen workers could be seen mixing, rolling, stretching and forming loaves in a wide variety of sizes and shapes.
Originally just a passion project while at school in England, a few Breads sold at local markets helping the young man pay some bills and build skills for a future not yet known, 2018 now sees Day as the owner of two locations and recipient of both local and international accolades including mentions in Vogue as well as Travel + Leisure, the long days peddling goods in the streets finally paying dividends but his enthusiasm still evident in a collection of items stretching across countertops and scrawled on chalkboards.
Open from 8a-10p Monday through Saturday and 9a-6p on Sunday, “La Chola” as Day is known to friends usually present with Flour on his hands, guests arriving at the flagship shop in Miraflores can expect to be greeted by a line at registers from which orders are taken, a number exchanged for cash or credit and a brief wait to follow during which Water, Coffee, Tea or Juice is available.
Dividing the menu almost 50/50 sweet and savory, large loaves of Focacccia for making Sandwiches and Seed Breads flanked by Viennoiserie, Cookies and Quick Breads, it was with a small table soon flooded with wooden boards that Breakfast began, the lightly cooked Avocado sprinkled with Sea Salt creamy atop hearty Cereal Bread served with Olive Oil while El Pan’s signature Mixto Sandwich was a beautiful creation featuring fluffy Focaccia around Ham, Cheese and Special Sauce with subtle heat and plenty of Herbs.
Clearly attentive to international trends, the Avocado Toast but one example, those looking for something else not seen commonly in Peru should strongly consider investing in one of El Pan de la Chola’s Pecan Rolls featuring tightly wound Brioche and restrained sweetness, the Oatmeal Cookie also featuring chopped Nuts and chunks of Chocolate good but a little over-baked which made it crisp from edge to center.
Going so far as to make his own Whole Wheat Flour on-site and creating everything from all-natural ingredients it should come as no surprise that Day’s Pastries also come across as something high effort, the Butter Croissant as good as many in France with arching lamination while the Almond version veers Peruvian by way of filling the twice-baked shell with Almonds in Manjar Blanco.
Arroz con Leche – Aquarello Rice, Cinnamon, Cloves, Caramel Brulee, Apple Sorbet
Currently ranked number twelve on Latin/South America’s list of best Restaurants it was just past 7:00pm that Osso Carnicería y Salumería in San Isidro was found almost empty, the Rolling Stones playing overhead for just six guests but Butcher-turned-Chef Renzo Garibaldi’s Restaurant quick to fill with locals, many enjoying Drinks at the Bar but several also taking a seat to experience what many consider some of Peru’s best Meats.
Originally opened in 2013 as a single table tasting in the back of Garibaldi’s La Molina Butcher shop but since expanding to a more central Steakhouse near Lima’s Swisshotel at Av Santo Toribio 173, the second space larger and adorned with an open kitchen, it was reservations confirmed that two guests were led to a comfortable banquet where Food and Beverage menus were presented with a lengthy decision making process soon to begin.
Trained stateside and celebrated for beliefs in sustainable butchery, the use of only Grass-fed Beef and ‘mature’ cuts a prominent theme across a list of items ranging from traditional Steaks to housemade Charcuterie and Sausages it was after a Pisco-based drink akin to a Negroni was served that an order was placed, the first round consisting of two types of Bread baked on-site alongside Rillettes and Compound Butter plus eight types of Charcuterie highlighted by Chicken Liver Mousse indistinguishable from Foie Gras plus thin slices of Lonza and spicy dried Sausage.
Offering ten cuts of Beef and five of Pork in addition to Burgers, Chicken, Pasta, Salads and Sides it was largely a matter of appetite that led to an order of the 725g bone-in Chuleton at a cost of about $52USD, the rich funk of dry-aging even more pervasive than usual given the protein’s leanness while Rezo’s famous Bone Marrow Risotto lived up to its billing of something anyone visiting Lima needs to taste, though the silky Rice with Mushrooms and Bacon may be too salty for those limiting their intake for health reasons.
Enjoying French Fries far more than expected, a common theme to follow throughout the trip, it was with all plates clean that the show was turned over to Rezo’s wife Andrea, 3/8 of her Desserts selected even though every single one sounded great, the signature OSSO Mess upgrading England’s classic with Bacon and Pork Fat Caramel while the stacked-to-order warm Carrot Cake and Bruleed Rice Pudding with refreshing Apple Sorbet almost made one forget they were eating in a place best-known for Meat.
Making short work of a snack after touching down at Jorge Chávez International Airport it was en route to dinner that La Casa del Alfajor was noted, the Bakery chain with locations throughout Lima and surrounding provinces proving an enjoyable stop with pleasant service and plenty of options loaded with their famous Manjar Blanco, plus a few other surprises.
Originally opened in 1987 as a garage project and subsequently expanding by way of markets followed by franchising, a total of sixteen stores plus steady online sales spreading some of South America’s signature sweets far and wide, it was after perhaps five minutes of perusal that four items were selected, each plated individually and brought to a table with the modest tab to be settled later.
Located at Av Conquistadores 699 and apparently one of Lima’s first stand-alone locations, others positioned as kiosks inside of malls, it was with pictures snapped that first bites were taken of a wedge of crumbly Cake tinged in Anise and topped with colorful Candy balls, the Bread Pudding to follow textured exactly the opposite and moist like Flan but with a hefty note of sweet Citrus.
Saving signatures for last, both the Milhojas and Alfajor packed with Dulce de Leche, it was by way of a bit of Corn Starch that the late was crumbly yet smooth on the tongue with sweetness tempered by Coconut while the layered Cookies of the former remained crisp despite layers of Caramel, though the liberal application of Confectioner’s Sugar on top made La Casa del Alfajor’s version a bit sweeter than La Mora’s or others.
With three locations in Lima it was shortly after arrival by way of Panama that a stop was made at La Mora, the dramatic change in humidity and twelve hours transit time contributing to favorable conditions for a frozen Cappuccino consisting of little more than Ice, Espresso and Simple Syrup plus seven of the café’s baked goods, five sweet and two savory.
Undoubtedly a locals-only sort of place, the shop at Av. Grau 400 between Miraflores and San Isidro consisting of three rooms including the retail area, it was immediately upon seating that Water was presented along with menus, a truncated English version for one and the more expansive Spanish version for those to whom it was useful.
Mostly a grab-and-go operation, though apparently popular for a quick sit-down bite post-work for many, it was after some time waiting during shift change that a server approached to take an order, items subsequently brought out in two rounds and the Empanada immediately impressing with big chunks of Chicken in buttery Pastry while the Corn Pie was not as Quiche-like as it looked, but instead featuring sweet Kernels embedded in a melted matrix not dissimilar to Korean Corn Cheese.
Offering several Peruvian Pastries plus an array of French and German items, housemade Pretzels and Éclairs both tempting, it was instead with a sizeable Oreja sweetened by Honey that the tasting continued, its light layers an encouraging prelude to what would be found in the impressive Milhojas Con Manjar that cut perfectly with a knife or fork yielding smooth Caramel filling.
Moving next to the first of Peru’s many Alfajor Cookies, La Mora’s Alfajor Mediano lacking the traditional Coconut shavings but still quite good, it was after this that a Carrot Cake Muffin showed off with far more Pineapple than those found stateside while a dish labeled simply as “Triangulo de Nuez” was as delicious as it was novel with a texture almost like Marzipan but a far more natural and nutty flavor inside a Chocolate shell.
