Serving Puerto Vallarta since 1970 a visit to Espiga de Oro would suggest little has changed since opening, its sales area shabby with an abundance of bees and the offerings fairly limited even as early as 8:30am.
Cash only with no seating, a group of locals lounging on steps outside, it was for less than $5USD that eight items were purchased for sharing – none on par to local Panaderia and the Concha drier than those found at grocery stores stateside.
By day a Coffee shop and at night pouring unique Cocktails Café INA is the brainchild of Biorel Villaseñor, his spot in El Pitillal taking an artisan approach to beverages without the elevated prices of spots serving less curated versions along the tourist corridor.
Operating with minimal signage, just an open door with a long bar and lounging cats, guests stopping by will find Biorel happy to talk beans from San Sebastián del Oeste to Nayarit and whether one chooses a scalding Pour Over or Cold Brew the complexity and attention to detail shows with every sip.
FROM DUBAI WITH LOVE – Lamb in Merlot reduction, Chickpea hummus, Sautéed chickpeas
BOLILLO BREAD ICE CREAM
Built out of one of the first grocery stores in Ixtapa La Tienda Grande sees Chef Salvador Carrillo creating elegant Mexican Cuisine utilizing Mediterranean influences, a Tasting Menu seeing guests invited to choose their own main course plus innovative Cocktails or Wines focused on local purveyors.
Far from the tourist corridor, the sort of Restaurant that has earned the effort needed to visit since it opened, diners will notice streets filled with local vendors on their way into a space decorated with plaster and tile around the kitchen on full-display.
A frequent award recipient, though friendly and professional service assures a lack of pretense, Dinner begins with a crackling Croquette filled with molten Cheese before proceeding to a dish called “Child’s Play” featuring seared local Tuna on a color-shifting plate.
No doubt a Mexican Restaurant, but proudly incorporating global influences into dishes such as a Plantain Empanada or Lamb in Red Wine Demi, Chef Carrillo’s Braised Pork Belly Taco is a work of art balanced by Cream and Greens preceding Pork Ribs with Sweet Potato Puree.
Rethinking Enfrijoladas as an exceptional dish based on Beef Short Ribs, pickled Vegetables cutting through the richness with ease, “Pink Octopus” sees Cephalopod tender with a bit of snap adjacent non-traditional accouterments before finishing the night with an Ice Cream Cone indistinguishable in flavor from Bolillo Bread.
In a city bolstered by tourism it would be easy for guests to overlook places almost entirely supported by locals, and although Puerto Vallarta has plenty of Panaderia the best spot for freshly made Pan Dulce is Panaderia La Chiquita Tradicional on Calle Rafael Osuna.
Hidden amidst surrounding streets with minimal signage, early arrivals finding a team of ten or more mixing and forming various items, it is around 12h00 that racks are filled with myriad choices ranging from textbook Concha and Cornbread to Turtle-shaped Bread with subtle sweetness.
Friendly and cash-only, an Oreja crackling to the tooth with plenty of Butter inside, fans of Besos will find this version filled with Cajeta instead of Guava while Cake and an item akin to a Scone are each also quite good.
With several locations in Puerto Vallarta Mariscos 8 Tostadas is considered by many to be a “must visit,” the space in La Marina proving especially popular thanks to a large seating area plus friendly service and fair prices.
In direct view of the Ocean, a full bar pouring Micheladas and Palomas for guests en route to their boats, nearly every choice can be counted on for freshness whether Aguachile bright with Citrus, chopped Fish Tostadas or Tacos piled high in smoked Marlin Meat.
Located away from the beach on Calle Pavo Real a visit to Pasteleria Pavlova will find mostly locals, the Bakery’s wide range of options rooted in local Ingredients but not afraid to explore ideas such as Macarons and unique ideas such as moist Apple Cake baked in a Canele mold.
Spacious compared to other local Panaderia, a covered outdoor patio welcoming diners to stay and enjoy their Pastries, fans of Tres Leches will find Pavlova’s a single layer with good Frosting and medium-saturation while Carrot Cake is two-tiered around Cream Cheese with Nuts but no Raisins.
Also executing Cookies well, a crisp rim and soft center found on both Chocolate and Chocolate Chip, those in the know won’t sleep on buttery Cinnamon Rolls with or without Fruit that are big enough to share.
Located on Los Muertos Beach La Palapa Restaurant was founded by Rodelinda Pérez and Guy Dickey in 1959, their decision to open a place so far from the current downtown originally questioned but now celebrated as the first beach restaurant in Puerto Vallarta.
Spanish for “thatched roof,” a redesign in 1987 retaining much of the original and the business still family-owned, guests visiting now will still find friendly service and Mexican-influenced intercontinental cuisine ranging from Pot Stickers to Risotto.
An expansive floor plan with several tables on the sand, sunset seating predictably in demand, it is while musicians serenade guests that servers circulate Bread with Butter followed by Appetizers, Pear Salad brightened by Hibiscus while Duck Enchiladas trend sweeter than they need to be.
A tourist spot with prices to match, entrees up to 745 pesos, flavors for Pork Belly as well as Risotto are as expected and Desserts find Corn Flan with Mascarpone far outpacing Lychee Mousse compromised by Mint or greasy Churros atop Rice Pudding.
Located just over the pedestrian bridge to Licenciado Gustavo Díaz Ordaz International Airport is Tacon de Marlin, a second location of the Puerto Vallarta favorite for Burritos loaded with fresh Seafood and a lack of Rice.
Frequently full at lunch time, an outdoor patio and air conditioned inside seating both available, guests are invited to choose from a concise menu averaging approximately 150 Pesos for a sizable portion easily able satiate most appetites.
Made to order with casual pacing, the twenty-five minutes between ordering and receiving two Burritos bridged by a cup of Salad and Pickles, everything arrives nicely presented and from the griddled tortilla to Octopus, Marlin, Shrimp, Lettuce and Tomato each bite is dynamic in terms of both taste and texture.
Located adjacent the main plaza in zona romantica Paleteria La Michoacana is a simple operation offering Ice Cream and Popsicles, low prices and Puerto Vallarta’s humidity creating the sort of market that frequently sees queues during peak hours.
Cash-only with friendly service, bilingual employees happy to explain dozens of choices, Oreo may not seem like the most “Mexican” choice, but it is still tasty while an Ice Cream Sandwich with Vanilla Wafers surrounding creamy Caramel is exceptional.
With locations in Zona Romantica and near the Airport Mariscos La Tía Ñaña has been serving Puerto Vallarta since 1975, recent renovations creating a more friendly space at the original where locals as well as tourists sit down for quality Seafood served at a fair price.
Known for using only locally-caught Seafood, think juicy Mexican White Shrimp fried in light Tempura for their Battered Shrimp Tacos, most folks visiting La Tía Ñaña do so for raw preparations in big portions such as signature Ceviche or a version with Pickled Pork Skin.
Not forgetting vibrant Aguachiles in dark Sauce, a good balance of Salt and Acid, suffice it to say the eponymous “La Tia” Taco earns its accolades with Butter and Garlic cooked Seafood plus a Cheese crisp for contrast and a bit of heat.
Located in Zona Romantica Oh! Croissant Pasteleria is considered by most to be Puerto Vallarta’s best European Bakery, French Ex-pat ownership assuring classic techniques while service is friendly and bilingual to appease tourists.
A continuous space from outside seating to checkerboard tiles, items displayed behind glass beneath a chalk menu, early arrival is advised to procure the best bites including three types of Croissant impressively uncompromised by Oceanside humidity.
Outperforming expectations with Viennoiserie, a twist around Chocolate and coils surrounding Cranberries both crispy with lots of Butter, fans of Choux will find Oh! Croissant’s work nearly-Parisian quality whether they try a classic Hazelnut Brest or Cream-filled Religeuse.
Blue fin tuna tostada – Dry chili vinaigrette, tangerine
Shrimp aguachile – Black aguachile, mango
Squash blossom – Stuffed with queso ranchero, parsnip puree, caldillo
Sea Bass – Pipian and corn puree
Chile Ancho taco – Garlic sauce
Porkbelly and Octopus Huarache – Black beans and salsa martajada
New York Strip – Black bean demiglace, nopales, onion
Strawberry sorbet
Chocolate tamal – Mascarpone mousse
“Corn” in the language of the Huichols Restaurante ICÚ ranks amongst Mexico’s top eateries, Chef Mauricio Leal taking native ingredient and turning them into elegant bites across an 11-plate tasting for just under $85 USD per person.
Another local talent trained at Café des Artistes, Mauricio then refining his skills at 5-star Resorts in Mexico, it is inside a space built around living trees that dinner begins with small bites including a Tostada with Crickets before proceeding to a Beer Salad enlivened by Mexican Sour Cream.
Pleasant in terms of service, Monday evening finding the Restaurant nearly empty, line-caught Blue Fin dusted in Chilis proved a good match to clever Cocktails while Shrimp in Black Aguachile was more for looks than anything.
Upping the ante with a fried Squash Blossom stuffed with Cheese in Fish Head Soup, the flesh of that Sea Bass arriving next atop Corn with Pumpkin Seeds and Greens, fans of Ancho Peppers will love the complexity of Chef Leal’s Taco that starts sweet but finishes in notes of Cocoa.
Next melding Pork Belly and Cephalopod into two dynamic bites, the penultimate savory outpacing Steak to follow, palates are cleansed by simple Strawberry Sorbet before finishing the night with a velvety Chocolate Tamale.
Not to be confused with El Taquito Hidalguense the storefront of El Hidalguense resides adjacent Birrieria Liz, and much like it the Restaurant features outdoor cookery plus limited seating and a concise menu focused on doing one thing better than the competition.
Offered as either Beef or Lamb, the latter most popular as a Dorado-style Taco with crispy Corn Tortillas, slow-cooking renders fat translucent with ther consistency of Butter such that with or without housemade Salsa or a squeeze of Citrus complex flavors flood the palate and linger for a while.
Located at the intersection of Panama Street and C. Peru one need merely look for picnic tables and a queue to discover Birrieria Liz, a simple space focused on traditional stewed Meats offered as Tacos, Hurraches, Quesadillas or full plates.
Offering seats inside and out, a “Cash Only” policy prominently displayed near the painted menu, it is after no more than five minutes that Food is delivered alongside freshly made Tortillas plus condiments, a touch of Citrus brightening Beef or Goat loaded with Chilis while the Consomé is so complex that sips between bites are recommended.
Conveniently located at the Marina a visit to Repostería Los Chatos sees most guests focused on Bread or Ice Cream, a few outside seats offering space to enjoy a fairly diverse collection of traditional Pan Dulce plus international dishes like Cookies and Carrot Cake.
Focused on friendly service, a young woman happy to make Milkshakes even at 9:00am, best bites came in the form of what can best be described as a Croissant rolled in Sugar while the Linzer and Mille Feuille were both somewhat compromised by Puerto Vallarta’s excessive humidity.
“Cheesecake” Mousse that is not Cheesecake, Passion Fruit, Walnuts, Cheese
Toffee Pudding, vanilla ice cream
Vanilla flan, Bone Marrow custard, Beef fat caramel, Foie Gras
Chocolate truffles
Born in Puerto Vallarta, but globally trained, Chef Joel Ornelas’ Tintoque offers indigenous Ingredients with a wide range of inspirations in a riverside room with the sort of service befitting Michelin-starred eateries in Asia and Europe.
Offered as a tasting or a la carte experience, the latter well-suited to large groups willing to share, Tintoque opened in 2016 and has frequently been cited as one of the best Restaurants in Mexico by publications including Guia Mexico Gastronomico ever since.
A white-tablecloth space with an open kitchen, high ceilings and tiles magnifying sounds but never too loud, it is with a focus on local Spirits that Cocktails take on lot of complexity that pairs well to opening flavors such as two types of Fish Tostada including faultless Bluefin in Peanut Adobo.
Intrigued by “High Fermentation” Bread, essentially toasted Sourdough adjacent aged Butter, a Bean and Cheese Tamale with Mushrooms also fared well while Marlin Kebabs unfortunately got a little lost in assertive Tzatziki and Feta.
Better with Fried Chicken in something akin to Bravas Sauce, as well as Grilled Amberjack not unlike Steak in its taste and texture, Ornelas’ Esquites seek to steal the spotlight despite their vegetarian nature thanks to Mushrooms and Cheese.
Agreeable to offering a Tasting Menu addition a la carte, Bone Marrow Custard, Beef Fat Caramel and Foie Gras mesmerizing beneath a shard of Sugar, Cream Cheese Pudding exceeds expectations while Toffee Pudding served as a Donut is benefited by a scoop of housemade Ice Cream.
Part of a chain of Bakeries across Puerto Vallarta Pastelería y Panadería Don Chonito can be counted on for competent Pan Dulce at a fair price, with a good selection offered from 7am until 10pm daily.
Visited at the Av. De Las Torres after noon, several options still available including freshly made Concha, fans of Besos and Pan Elote will find these better than most while Oreja and Puerco are compromised by Jalisco’s humidity.
Also offering Donuts and several Cakes, the latter just 45 pesos a slice, be sure to bring cash as Credit Cards are not accepted.
Pancita de Cerdo Crujiente o Pork Belly pal bilingüe pork belly taco / Cabeza Planchada de Lechón grilled pork head meat taco / Chicharrón Prensado pressed pork rinds in red salsa quesadilla
Owned by Chef Joel Ornelas of Tintoque and La Leña El Puerco de Oro opened mid-pandemic, and serving guests “Desde el Tiempo de Covid” the Versalles space has made a name for itself with Pork Belly Tacos.
A native of Puerto Vallarta, skills refined at Café des Artistes before time abroad, it is inside an open-air space that diners pick from a concise list of Proteins packed onto housemade Blue Corn Tortillas.
Friendly in terms of service, Tacos 28-33 Pesos and jumbo Quesadillas 70-80, Agua Frescas include Horchata made with Oat Milk while a selection of Mexican Beers match well to Belly that is crunchy over juicy flesh or bits of crispy Skin intermixed with gooey Cheese and Salsa.
PANCAKES TRES LECHES – glaseado, ralladura de chocolate, nueces, fruta de temporada
PAN FRANCÉS – brioche, helado de vainilla, frutos rojos, maple orgánico
CHILAQUILES CON MOLE ALMENDRADO – pollo desmenuzado, frijoles, aguacate, crema y queso de rancho, ajonjoli, cebolla encurtida
Established inside a former Versalles home Cha’ Cocina Libre offers a modern take on Mexican Breakfast favorites, a friendly staff and open kitchen offering everything from housemade Juices to complex Chilaquiles featuring housemade Tortillas, Mole, Chicken, local Cheese and Beans.
A cozy spot with covered patio seating and a long queue at peak hours, though service is fast and efficient, fans of sweeter stuff should pay attention to thick French Toast crowned by a ball of Vanilla Ice Cream or #gramworthy Tres Leches Pancakes that a light and fluffy but fully saturated with hints of Cocoa and Nuts.
TARTA DE ARROZ Y LECHE – Vanilla cake, bruleed rice, kiwi and mango jelly, Morita chili, caramel, nuts, milk foam
Decorated all-white such that the entire space acts as a canvas for projections from the DJ booth LA LECHE Almacén Gourmet seeks to “reinterpret culinary tradition in an irreverent way,” and from tableside mixology to the Food itself flavors are sharp while service is efficient and friendly.
Undoubtedly targeting a young and affluent clientele in the Hotel Zone, though the menu does not skimp on technique for the #gram, La Leche uses local Produce to build complex plates including grilled Octopus with Corn and Cotija or exceptional braised Mushrooms filled with Snails in earthy Cream Sauce.
Fun for all ages, a children’s menu offering Tacos similar to the “Taco de New York” for an adjacent birthday celebration, Entrees such as the Cazuela take a traditional approach as does Confit Duck with Vegetables and Mole Sauce.
Not a place to skip Dessert, all three channeling the season and environment, fans of Cornbread will surely be wowed by Tres Leches Corn Pie though the Rice Pudding channeling Creme Brulee and Pepitas Cheesecake are no less delicious.
