Samples: Orange Sherbet, Billy Goat, Butter Pecan, Not Your Mama’s Brownie Batter
Netflix n’ Chill and Buzzin Bee on a Salted Pretzel Cone
Fancied for its boozy Scoops and housemade Cones offered in a variety of flavors it was at Cone Gourmet Ice Cream that Independence Day concluded, Chicago’s heat and humidity generating a large crowd just past 7pm and staff advising guests against traveling any distance with their Ice Cream as melting proved an issue even inside the shop.
Located in the West Loop since 2013, an attempted visit around one year in foiled by locked doors to this day unexplained, it was while queued that cases were perused, tasting spoons mere licks that made it difficult to detect subtlety though the Orange Sherbet seemed quite nice and refreshing.
Offering no shortage of novelty whether one opts for Cone, Cup, Sundae or Shake, vibrant colors making “artisan” perhaps appropriate but “all-natural” unsuitable it was once choices were made that $7 was exchanged for two flavors in a salty Pretzel Shell, Netflix & Chill actually surprisingly alluring thanks to light salinity juxtaposed against Chocolate Candy while the “Buzzin Bee” that seemed pleasant based on a taste was texturally disastrous as a result of Cereal that reminisced of stale Cheetos though the Ice Cream itself was tasty.
Butterscotch Pudding, Pecan Praline, White Coffee-Kahlua Ice Cream, Caramelized Grains
Shut out on The Lobby due to Chicago traffic and bad weather in late 2013 it was not until September 2014 that Lee Wolen’s Cuisine was tasted at BOKA, news that he’d since launched an “All-American Supper Club” called Somerset immediately placing it atop the bucket list for a return in July and the fact that the two-story space on North State Street was one of the few open for dinner on Independence Day further sweetening the deal.
Located inside The Viceroy Hotel and thus serving three meals daily, an outdoor patio looking out on the Near North Side proving popular despite heat and humidity, it was instead opting for an inside seat near the downstairs window that a hip male server presented the menu and Ice Water, a declination of Cocktails accepted without question and followed by some dining suggestions.
Less than 25% full at 5:00pm on a Holiday, the well-appointed upstairs completely empty but worth visiting to explore the art or simply wash up, it was shortly after returning to the two-top that warm Rolls were presented alongside creamy Butter, the addition of Dill unanticipated but pleasant while the Bread’s wispy texture was every bit as good as the original in Boston.
Prone to seasonal change but already developing some signatures, Wolen’s well-known Chicken for two ordered by groups on both sides, it was in favor of variety that dinner began with what can best be described as Brandade Hush Puppies alongside vibrant Aioli, each sweet yet briny bite as good as the last though a plate of Gnudi served simultaneously still managed to steal the spotlight thanks to quality Produce and impeccable seasoning that bridged late Spring and early Summer.
Moving next to more housemade Pasta plus a dish designated as a Side, the Cornmeal thick with Cheese and Cream as good as Scott Conant’s famous version but perhaps too rich for just one, it was in alternating bites that this was enjoyed alongside al dente Ribbons brightened by the flavors of Cioppino, a half-portion perfect for solos who wish to save room for Dessert which is most certainly advisable.
Turning things over at this point to Meg Galus, the head Pastry Chef at BOKA pulling triple duty these days as she also heads up sweets at Swift & Sons, it was making difficult decisions amongst six choices which vary slightly from Lunch to Dinner that two were ordered, a deconstructed Buckwheat Carrot Cake managing its high-wire act of Citrus and Spice nicely while Butterscotch Pudding doubled down on texture with Pecan Praline and crunchy grains while tempering sweetness by way of slightly bitter Ice Cream.
With Cookies recently getting some well-deserved time in the spotlight, Cupcakes long gone and Donuts the everlasting American standard of Pastry, it was based on good word of mouth that a visit was made to Warm Belly Bakery, though in comparison to spots on either coast the only thing found inside was kitschy decorations, high prices and disappointment.
Located in the West Loop at 1148 West Monroe Street, a short walk from Fulton Marrket easy even in sweltering or frigid weather, it was with no one present at the register on entry that items were perused, a thin young man lazily emerging from the back room and standing with glazed eyes but not saying a word as though he’d been caught napping.
Eventually interrupting iHeartRadio tunes with “Can I help you,” a request for four thick rounds presented on the counter seeing one more added near the register, it was after pictures were snapped and the same scene repeated with another customer that Cookies were taken elsewhere to eat, first bites off an Oatmeal Craisin round with crisp rim and flexible center a high-point that would not be matched.
Moving next to four of the mounds, a style of Cookie that rarely achieves desired consistency outside of NYC’s Levain, it was after just one bite of sugary Ube with even sweeter Frosting that the bright Purple lump was left to birds on the pavement, a follow-up of Salted Butterscotch at least mellowing the Sugar a touch while Hazelnut Chocolate Chip again tasted more sweet than anything else, only the Dark & Salty Coffee Toffee Cookie justifying its $3 cost thanks to an bold topnote of Dark Matter Coffee broken up by melted bits of Toffee.
With the rest of the world opening Restaurants in Los Angeles it initially seemed strange that Roman Pizzaiolo Gabriele Bonci would choose Chicago for the first American outpost of his eponymous Pizzeria, but as an early lunch on July 4th proved the Windy City loves Pizza…and in this case one certainly isn’t talking about Deep Dish or Bar Pie.
Now approaching one year serving the West Loop with a second location recently opened in Wicker Park, a style of pizza known as “Al Taglio” that is cut with scissors and sold by weight offering an innovative way to sample broadly whether dining solo or as a group, guests entering Bonci are encouraged to first grab a deli-style number and then peruse the line-up – some sixteen or more rectangles on this particular day topped in a vast array of Sauces, Produce and Proteins.
Pleasant in terms of service though fairly uncomfortable on a hot and humid day with several ovens running behind the bar, complimentary Still or Sparkling Water thankfully chilled next to a small freezer full of Gelato, it was after several minutes indecision that three styles of Pizza were cut and placed on a sheet to heat, the cost of $16 for just over a pound certainly not “cheap” though neither are the locally sourced and often-organic Ingredients.
Embracing ideals of “quality without compromise” and being “simply natural,” the fact that Gelato “hand packed locally using only the finest and freshest ingredients” contains Corn Syrup at the top of its label plus several stabilizers below seemingly a bit contradictory, it was immediately upon delivery that a look at Bonci’s Dough told a story of lengthy fermentation and more than one type of Flour, the crisp base giving way to an airy crumb stretchy with gluten and light in Olive Oil.
Not an easy place to choose one “best” option, though Potato is apparently quite popular according to Staff, it was instead meaty Ragu beneath good Mozzarella that started things off, the flavors coming together like a good Sunday Gravy while Cacio Pepe unfortunately got a little too saline in parts, the “Rosa” with imported Prosciutto thankfully doing no such thing and offering not only great flavor but interesting texture thanks to the fluffy Scrambled Eggs.
Unable to resist Gelato, the $7/each Containers priced higher than Artisan Shops such as Cones or Jeni’s by weight despite the aforementioned ingredients, suffice it to say that a visit to Bonci should probably stick to Pizza with Dessert obtained elsewhere as the texture was not as creamy as many shops stateside let alone in Italy while the Sea Salt Caramello was just sweet on sweet, the Crema Pistacchio a bit better thanks to some toasty notes and bits of chopped Nuts.
Having taken a fair bit of criticism from fellow culinary tourists for contesting that Bardot Brasserie in Las Vegas is the best Restaurant of its kind in America, a prevalent bias against “Celebrity Chefs” including Michael Mina leading many to mistakenly assume it just another hotel concept, it was shortly after arriving in Chicago on July 4th that a seat was taken at Margeaux Brasserie inside the Waldorf Astoria, the Midwest sister to Bardot featuring an almost entirely different menu including daily Breakfast.
Toqued by Chef Brent Balika since opening and managed by nine-year Mina veteran Jose Gonzalez, the group’s ability to promote talented people from within never ceasing to impress from coast-to-coast and all points between, it was shortly after arriving at the third story space that a menu was presented and Coffee poured, the Cold-Brew from LAMill particularly welcome on a hot and humid holiday.
Certainly not the sort of place one stumbles upon, even Petit Margeaux Cafe at street level a space that looks ‘fancy’ to remain in step with nearby shopping including Hermes and the associated clientele, guests dining early on weekdays will find a menu largely focused on Eggs, Bacon and Sausage, though those seeking something more decadent will also notice Duck Confit Waffles and Lobster Benedict plus Griddles and Pastries.
Playing light Instrumental classics overhead, several rooms bathed in light giving the space an intimate feel despite capacity that undoubtedly exceeds one hundred, it was starting sweet that a pleasant waiter presented Margeaux’s take on Bardot’s weekend-only French Toast, the Brioche base here a bit shorter and more custardy beneath thick Lemon Curd plus Blueberries while a structurally sound Baguette was equally impressive at the opposite end of the spectrum as it was split and topped with gooey Cheese and Butter speckled in Truffles.
Next treated to a daily special Tartine, gently crackling layers of Puff Pastry heard with each forkful, it was thanks to a request one week prior that two items from the nighttime Dessert Menu were able to be offered at 10am, the Valrhona Chocolate Grand Macaron a lot like that at Bardot but including fresh Raspberries plus a Cream Center while Baked Alaska flamed in Chartreuse only seems indulgent at that time of day until you try it and realize that something so complex and delicious should be tasted anytime the chance presents.
Le Stan with Laminated Dough, Vanilla Bean Pastry Cream, Granulated Sugar
Vanilla Glazed Cake Donut with Sprinkles
Cherry Old Fashioned
Blueberry Fritter
Blueberry Cream Cheese Pocket
Bomb Pop Buttermilk Bar
It seems difficult to believe that Stan’s Donuts & Coffee debuted in Chicago over four years ago but now with nine locations spanning from Millennium Park to Oak Brook there was no doubt a visit was in order shortly after arriving fresh off the red-eye from Las Vegas, July 4th finding streets already busy at 8am as folks planned for a long day in the heat and humidity awaiting Fireworks at the Navy Pier.
Thankfully offering easy access from the Blue Line, a short walk to 181 North Michigan Avenue taking perhaps ten minutes with luggage in hand, it was entering a half-full shop with decorative Donuts on the ceiling that a young server smiled and said hello, an extensive selection of fried Pastries beckoning from behind glass including several new additions.
Certainly not the cheapest of Donut Shops, “Standards” beginning at $1.95 and choices topping out with Stan’s $4.99 spin on Dominique Ansel’s Cronut, it was at a cost of nearly $25 including tax and tip that seven selections were boxed, a two-top table sporting branded Napkins offering room to relax with utensils and a fill-your-own Water station not far away.
Familiar with Stan’s from both 2014 and earlier in Westwood Village of Los Angeles, the original shop opened by Stan Berman in 1963 still going strong, it was with items unpacked that tasting began with a basic glazed ring featuring good rise and plenty of yeastiness, the simple selection made as a result of an “Assorted” Half-Dozen carrying two Traditional, two Specialty and two “Dough Boy’s Best” showing good fundamentals as did a Vanilla Glazed Cake Donut that was dainty despite a toothsome crumb and being virtually Oil free.
Unable to forgo the laminated option regardless of price, a cost greater than the originator’s actually, those who’ve tried a few Cronuts will probably be left scratching their head regarding what makes “Le Stan” special aside from perhaps good Pastry Cream, particularly as the overall texture is rather flaccid and the filling nowhere near as plentiful as that inside of one of Stan’s “Pockets,” this time sampled with housemade Blueberry Compote and Cream Cheese.
Moving next to more Fruit-filled selections, Stan’s Old Fashioned Donuts something of a signature even though pricing Pistachio at $2.75 with Cherry a dollar more makes little sense, it was with good natural flavor and a melting base that the cogwheel-shaped Pastry impressed, the Blueberry Fritter not quite as good as some since the exterior was not crispy enough while the Holiday “Bomb Pop” Buttermilk Bar should have been glazed a bit more quickly after frying to let Icing saturate the Dough, though the flavors were pretty darn close to those of the Popsicle it references.
Owned by the Landry’s Restaurant Group at the center of Caesars’ Forum Shops it is no secret that TREVI Italian Restaurant is targeted at tourists, so with a trio in town from Paris looking for something ‘casual’ it was as a group of five that dinner was served, Chef Jose M. Navarro and his team showing exactly why Las Vegas remains far ahead of the pack in terms of high volume Restaurants as relates to both Cuisine and service.
Located amidst giants such as Armani, Gucci and Ferragamo plus the “Fountain of the Gods,” a pseudo-outdoor patio popular for people watching cozying right up to flowing waters, it is from a podium that guests are led to tables spread across two floors, a rounded booth overlooking both kitchen and dining room providing plenty of space and comfort as a Wedding Party one table over celebrated one of Las Vegas’ many newlywed couples.
Accessible yet offering enough intrigue and good ingredients to please the culinary-minded, simple plates and ‘signatures’ joined by seasonal inspirations, happy hour specials and at least one off-menu Pasta daily, it was with a round of Drinks plus warm Bread that dinner got underway, the famous Trevi Peach Bellini a rightful favorite that is deceptively boozy while a seasonal Blueberry Martini was also quite pleasant thanks to an herbaceous linger.
Managing volume like professionals, both the decibel level and meal’s pacing just right considering at least two-hundred guests around 7pm on a Saturday, it was as drinks were being sipped that Appetizers were served with ample descriptions, the simple Caprese Salad showing off sourcing while Prosciutto with Melons in various forms plus Summer’s Steak Tartare did the same while also upping the ante by way of their multi-textured presentations.
Told that TREVI’s Brick Oven Pizzas are somewhat hit and miss, though any opportunity to indulge in the World’s second most popular dish is generally worthwhile, it was prior to Pasta that a deep-dish “Lasagna” Pie was served bubbling hot with layers of Meat and Cheese atop crisp and buttery Crust, a single slice probably enough for most given the heft but one of the rare ‘hybrid’ Foods that actually pulls double-duty in representing both classics equally.
Making several Pastas in-house, no small feat for such a venue, it was a bit disheartening that otherwise good Shellfish got a little lost amidst thick Cream Sauce but turning attention to three filled Noodles things were immediately back on track, an “appetizer” of Pea Casoncelli finding favor even from someone who generally does not like Mushrooms thanks to its freshness while both the daily-special Agnolotti and Chicken Ravioli were plump and nicely cooked with the former expectedly rich but nicely balanced by the sweet Wine Reduction.
Onward to Entrees, several at the table already getting full, it was in place of menu-suggested Salmon that Scallops were set amidst fragrant Dill Cream and Asparagus, the roasted Tomatoes just one of many excellent accoutrements that also included creamy Corn alongside medium-rare Steak and Kale that was almost as crisp and delicious as the juicy Chicken it was plated with.
Accepting an offer of Coffee prior to Dessert, the educated and affable server correctly naming and preparing an “Iced Americano” it was after a bit of Hockey talk that three sizable housemade sweets arrived, the Tiramisu fairly typical while TREVI’s molten “Chocolate Gooey Cake” and Italian Cream wedge both outpaced many Las Vegas fine-dining institutions in terms of taste and texture, not to mention portion, with blend of Coconut, Pecans and Cream Cheese Frosting arguably one of the most underrated Desserts offered anywhere in Sin City.
FOUR STARS: Just under $360 all-in, a complimentary round of Housemade Lemoncello offered to finish, it is safe to say that TREVI over-performed expectations and although a “tourist” Restaurant in the middle of a Shopping Mall may not be some people’s idea of a good night out the majority, including those who travel to eat, can certainly find a lot to enjoy about the experience, particularly when eating with people who aren’t necessarily into ‘fine dining’ but still want a delicious meal with great service.
RECOMMENDED: The TREVI Bellini, Prosciutto e Melone, Lasagna Pizza, Pea Casoncelli, Steak Tagliata, Italian Cream Cake.
AVOID: Linguine al Frutti di Mare.
TIP: Half-priced Appetizers and Drink specials from 2pm to 6pm every day but Saturday.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Suckling Pig – Smoked Pig, Biscuits, Poached Eggs, Brown Butter Hollandaise, House BBQ, Fried Jalapeno Chips
The Full Monte – Duck Confit, Gruyere, Batter Fried, Orange Marmalade
Sausage Corn Dog – Sausage dipped and fried in Pancake Batter, Whole Grain Mustard Maple Sauce
Acknowledging that Grand Openings, Play Dates, Soft Openings and Friends & Family are never the right time to assess a Restaurant beyond décor and aspirations it was along with one other that Brunch was experienced at The Stove on Saturday and although Standard & Pour will be missed the renovation by Chefs Antonio Nunez and Scott Commings has a lot to offer while the Food is creative, attractive and – most importantly – delicious.
Officially opening on 7/2/18 for daily Breakfast and Brunch, the menu a sprawling collection of plates that will almost certainly be truncated once diners’ preferences are determined, The Stove sees Chef Nunez re-enter the Henderson dining scene for the first time since departing Kitchen Table and with a much larger kitchen inside a multi-faceted dining space the experience is a choose-one’s-own-adventure of sorts ranging from Tea Parlor to Selfie Chamber and Private or Main Dining Room.
Keeping some aspects of the previous occupant intact, fans of Cory Harwelll’s short-lived attempt to broaden Henderson’s palate likely to recognize signage, wallpaper and even Straws, it was with warm welcome at the podium that guests were led to seats adjacent a kitchen now dressed like a home library, the bright white panels playing well off a lengthy table decorated in gold cutlery and flowers.
Playing a soundtrack heavy in old Motown and mid-tempo pop, the volume lively but conversation appropriate, it was by servers far better trained than many seasoned Restaurants that items were suggested and beverages served, some familiar faces in the mix and Chef Commings as well as Antonio splitting time between the line and touching tables.
Offering less than 1/2 the menu on this play-date, though still far more options and intrigue than places like eat or Babystacks, it was opting for items that seemed most esoteric that Cold Brew joined a Unicorn Hot Chocolate to start, the White Cocoa base thin but pleasant beneath sizable toasted Marshmallows while two Sake-based Cocktails served later proved refreshing without the likelihood of getting patrons tipsy early in the morning.
Moving on to the Food, anyone familiar with Antonio’s significant contributions to Kitchen Table or Scott’s underrated Brunch at Freedom Beat rightfully expecting big things, it was from a small number of Pastries that a fairly standard Blueberry Muffin was dwarfed by a rich mound of Chocolate riddled with Chips and topped with Cookies, a made-to-order Cinnamon Roll arriving next immediately contending for “city’s best” accolades thanks to fluffy Brioche and a pair of housemade Sauces from which the one with Pecans fared best.
Unable to exist on Sugar alone per the lady at the table, Pancakes and French Toast thus saved for an already planned 7/14/18 return, it was with “Cereal Milk” Yogurt a bit too sour beneath early season Berries that attention turned to Short Rib Empanadas plus Sausage Corndogs, the former rich and tender with subdued heat while the Artisan Sausage centering golden Pancake Batter made for one helluva “Pig in a Blanket” whether naked and savory or dipped in Mustard-speckled Noble Syrup.
Making a difficult Entrée decision even with half of the menu saved for Friends & Family Day two, Poutine Waffles and Pecan Pie Pancakes both calling out, it was alongside “The Full Monte” which Chef Nunez originally created on request off Horizon Ridge that an equally decadent creation was presented, a plate simply described as “Suckling Pig” featuring house-smoked Pork atop fluffy Biscuits with poached Eggs and Brown Butter Hollandaise that is not only delicious but likely large enough to be shared by most.
RECOMMENDED: Double Chocolate Cookie Muffin, Cinnamon Roll, Short Rib Empanada, The Full Monte, Suckling Pig.
AVOID: Cereal Milk Yogurt needs either more sweetness in the base or macerated/sugared Berries.
TIP: 7a-3p daily in the main dining room and 10a-5p daily in the tea lounge.
Vegan Fried Chicken and Beignets – Housemade Seitan Cutlets with Agave, Housemade Beignets with Confectioner’s Sugar
Carrot Cake
Vegan Apple Pie
Vegan-Gluten Free Almond Cheesecake
Cinnamon Almond Monkey Bread
PB Millet Balls
Loving v Virginia – the legal marriage between a Cookie and a Brownie
Blueberry Scone
Jalapeno Scone
Rocky Road Cookie
Peanut Butter Snickerdoodle
Chai Spice Cookie
Strawberry Cookie
Recently experienced by way of catering, a meal that managed to impress both colleagues and sponsors by way of healthy, fresh fare plus a bevy of Desserts, it was finally on Saturday that a visit was paid to Bronze Café at the Market, renovation to the shopping area doing nothing to diminish the quality of food or service in a place that undoubtedly qualifies for “hidden gem” status in Downtown Las Vegas.
Now the center of operations for Bronze Café since late-2016, the Restaurant’s time at The Center coming to an end some nine months ago, it was just prior to 10am that staff was found along a lengthy counter, a variety of races and sexes represented not only by the employees but diners seated indoors or on the outside patio.
Toqued by Peter Bastien and managed by David Mozes, the Café’s focus on Vegan or Vegetarian options accommodating health-conscious clientele while certainly not skimping on splurge-worthy options for those so inclined, it was with eyes on Weekend Brunch and new selections from the Pastry case that dine-in choices were made to go with several Pastries for take-away, a great cup of Cold Brew Coffee served over Ice sipped slowly while waiting for the Entrée.
Playing low-volume Pop overhead, a Television and Library both also available to pass the time, it was after roughly self-plating a wedge of Vegan Pie from its plastic Clamshell that first bites of the day were taken, a Crust which is expectedly dry given the lack of Lard or Butter still doing an admirable job of holding up to thinly sliced Apples while Carrot “Cake” eats more like a Granola Bar than Dessert but still achieves great results by way of dried Fruit and Nuts plus plenty of Spices and natural sweetness.
Having already discussed most of the Pastries in previous writings, a Jalapeno Scone doing a remarkable job of showing the ingredient without scorching the palate, it was also in a second style of Monkey Bread and Cheesecake each made with Almonds that new items were tasted, the later particularly delicious even when compared to May’s Double Chocolate version and as creamy as any in town despite being 100% Vegan.
Priced comparably to any of DTLV’s best casual spots despite using mostly Organic ingredients, the full array of Salads and Sandwiches available from open to close, it was after perhaps ten minutes of careful preparation and plating that Bronze Café’s Vegan Fried Chicken and Beignets was served, the fact that Wheat Gluten Protein is likely not everyone’s textural “Cup of Tea” rendered moot by a crisp and oilless exterior plus flavor not far from real Chicken while the Beignets are a bit flatter than some, but still nicely textured and far less greasy than the versions served beneath a mountain of Powdered Sugar at World-famous Café du Monde.
FIVE STARS: Working with good ingredients and able fulfill most dietary preferences Bronze Café at the Market excels at doing what many Restaurants are only beginning to figure out, and with Quick-Casual-Healthy a dining trend that appears to be here to stay the only thing holding David, Peter and team back is a lack of publicity and being located in a “Market” that was poorly conceptualized from the beginning, but hopefully about to finally become more relevant.
Recently generating some buzz on South Rainbow north of Oakey it was for dinner on Wednesday evening that two guests entered POTs, the owner and one employee immediately emerging from the back as another party followed and explaining the concept as “Authentic Egyptian Cuisine,” a novelty to the Las Vegas market despite several other restaurants presenting various dishes originating in the Middle East.
Bolstered by good word of mouth since opening in February, owner Iman an affable sort who hangs out in the dining room asking guests their impressions and offering details about POTs’ concept, it is from a limited number of dishes featured on an overhead menu that guests make their selections before paying at the counter, prices including $7 Fries and small containers of various Spreads for $8.50 decidedly steep based on Ingredients, though there is no doubt of the kitchen or staff’s commitment to serving a quality product.
Pleasant in terms of décor, a bookshelf featuring various knick-knacks set next to two couches while steel chairs and light bulbs suspended from rope add to the ambiance, it was shortly after spending nearly $50 including tax and tip that first items arrived, the Egyptian Fries blistering hot and crispy beneath spices including Cumin, Sesame and Mint while fried Sweet Potatoes were served room temperature and more subtly spiced but excellent in housemade Ketchup brightened by Citrus.
Offering no Meat on the menu, most items either naturally Vegan or possible to prepare as such, it was while eating Fries and sipping a thin Shake with mild sweetness that two Pitas arrived next, one called Taamia and described as Egyptian Falafel well prepared but marred in its flavor by too much Mint while Cauliflower “Shawarma” fared better in terms of taste with an even lighter and virtually oilless texture.
Finally served Dessert prior to finishing Pitas, a minor issue only since one included Ice Cream, it was here that POTs suggestion of “by mixing the familiar with the unfamiliar, we produce a taste like NO Other” rang most truthful, a dish called Mahlabeya offering the texture of Panna Cotta beneath Apricot Jello studded in dried Fruits while the Brownies were much like many similar Sundaes except that the Chocolate contained salty Tahini and bits of melted Halwa which rendered it sticky and sweeter in parts, much like Salty Caramel but without the Butter or Milk thus making for one delicious Vegan treat.
THREE AND A HALF STARS: Unquestionably a niche Restaurant, fast-casual concepts featuring healthier options a continuing trend that should be embraced, POTs adds something new to The Valley and does so with honesty and passion, but considering the simplicity of their Ingredients prices trend a little higher than need be while such a brief menu does little to demand return visits save for those with specific dietary needs.
AVOID: Tahini Shake was edible but not particularly flavorful while those sensitive to Mint should steer clear of the Taamia.
TIP: Those looking to check the place out and save a few bucks should sign up on the website for free Fries or consult Restaurant.com for $15 off $30 coupons.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Pulled Pork Tenderloin – Pulled Pork, Cole Slaw, Barbecue Sauce, Kaiser Roll
Tropical French Toast – Bananas, Strawberries, “with 100% Pure Maple Syrup”
Philly Cheesesteak – Beef, Onions, Green Peppers, Mushrooms, Provolone Cheese, Hoagie Roll
Originally opened in Anthem around the beginning of September 2016 it was largely a matter of distance that prevented prior visits to Munch Box, but when Avo Jabourian opened a second location in Spring Valley the excuses became null and void – a catering order on Wednesday showing that despite a broad menu of fairly “common” items the execution is proper while prices are an outright bargain.
Not advertising or paying for ‘influence’ like so many other Restaurants, a flood of photos from the same ten people apparently not enough to save Salute or Libre or Crave, it has instead been by way of good ol’ word of mouth and honest cooking that Munch Box has become one of a handful of independently owned concepts to capture the hearts of regulars, most people who’ve been speaking fondly of specific items that were focused on when ordering.
Not ‘fancy’ by any stretch, though ingredient quality is on par or superior to the likes of Panera while check averages are similar despite a significant upgrade in creativity, it was with timely delivery from Avo himself that Staff unwrapped Sandwiches and unsnapped plastic containers, first bites of Munch Box’s “Tijuana Hot” Breakfast Sandwich quickly explaining the item’s praise as one of Sin City’s better Bagels was packed full of fluffy Eggs plus crisp Bacon and a gooey blend of Cheddar with piquant Cream Cheese.
Given the opportunity to taste a half-dozen of over fifteen items selected, Burgers receiving top marks from those who partook, it was immediately upon opening a box of “Authentic” Poutine that lips formed a smile, the hand-cut Fries maintain good structure beneath nothing but Brown Gravy and squeaky Curds just as they should while a Pulled Pork Tenderloin Sandwich slathered in Slaw was a little sweeter than Carolina-style but not overly-saturated with Sauce and thus a nice balance of flavors with a portion large enough to share for most.
Surprised at how well most items had held up in transport, everything including a Smoked Salmon Plate and Denver Omelet arriving temperature-appropriate, it was largely a matter of the seared Beef’s juiciness that rendered the Bun of Munch Box’s Philly Cheesesteak a touch wet, the flavors nonetheless quite good depending on one’s preference for melted Provolone versus the thick orange goop featured at Tony Luke’s.
Opened at 7a Monday through Friday and 8am on Weekends, a Breakfast Menu thus necessary, it was in place of “Dessert” that Pancakes and French Toast stood-in, the promise of 100% Pure Maple Syrup unfortunately unfulfilled as Smucker’s was found in a bag of condiments, the fact that this writer actually keeps a bottle of Vermont’s best in his desk due to similar experiences in the past thankfully allowing thick slices of griddled Bread to be enjoyed as they should be though ay future order will instead focus on dinner-plate sized Pancakes that reminisce of the Golden Arches in terms of flavor but with a better rise whether covered in Nutella and Berries or in “Everest” form with Bacon Strips, tender Sausage and crispy Spuds.
N/A: Making it blog policy to not ‘rate’ places based on catering alone Munch Box outperformed several highly-regarded local Restaurants in terms of timeliness and customer service while simultaneously providing good Food at a fair price – exactly what a good caterer should do and the sort of thing that had yet another Pharmaceutical Representative swearing of “chains” as he chatted with satisfied office staff.
AVOID: The Cheesesteak is probably best saved for on-site dining.
TIP: Delivery available via EZ Cater, Grubhub or Yelp! with most items priced below $10 and cheap delivery costs that should fit under proposed changes to Nevada’s Big Pharma guidelines.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Coffee Cake – Mocha Glaze, Graham Crackers, Powdered Sugar
Cookies & Cream – Vanilla Glaze, Cookie Crumbs
Wondering aloud on New Year’s Day 2016 how Fractured Prune Doughnuts had not made an inroad to Las Vegas it was a mere ten months later that a franchise opened on Flamingo near the 215, a distance less than five minutes from home quickly forgotten despite ownership’s targeting of “influencers” but a recent reminder provided when visiting SG Bar which is located in essentially the same complex.
At this point growing to some twenty-five stores with the bulk in Maryland and a location at 9460 West Flamingo Road the most westerly to date, ownership apparently the same as that in Glendale per the store’s pleasant employees, Fractured Prune Las Vegas is found in a smaller footprint than the shopping mall near University of Phoenix Stadium but by-and-by the experience is quite similar.
Still “Always HOT since 1976” per neon signage, an LED list of favorites and the store’s checklist menu up front with a conveyor belt churning out fried rings behind the register, it was while a mother and two excitable kids waited that a dozen was picked, $1.89 each essentially making the two boxes of six a buy ten get two free bargain.
Allowing unbounded customization thanks to a vast array of Glazes and Toppings, the fact that each base is identical a limitation inherent to the concept, it was with a 10% off Coupon for “next time” that staff bid guests adieu as there is only limited seating, a bit of shade and some steps near the soon-to-open Parsley Mediterranean #3 good enough to sit while and take a bite of an employee suggested creation featuring Apple Glaze, Graham Cracker Dust and crumbled Bacon.
More oily than remembered from Arizona, the grease not overwhelming but definitely perceptible after moving past another selection topped with Bacon that masked the flavor thanks to its own fat and salinity, it was with four more tasted including one DIY Blueberry Glaze with Cinnamon Sugar plus Nilla Wafers that the rest were reserved for later, a sense of regret already lingering for getting twelve instead of a half-dozen.
Pleased by a several-days-late Father’s Day special of “Bulletproof Coffee,” the slightly bitter Mocha Glaze and Salt Crystals again doing a good job of subduing a pervasive flavor more obvious beneath fake-Fruit or pseudo-Honey, it was from a now-cooled second box that Coffee Cake performed best, the Coffee-tinged topping once again responsible though the fact that Cake beneath was now far less fluffy suggests that Fractured Prune is probably not the best choice to take off-site or to the office.
TWO AND A HALF STARS: While one would assume Fractured Prune’s automated frying process and Oil are standardized from franchise to franchise, especially those owned by the same operator, this visit to the Las Vegas branch fared far worse than thirty months prior before the Fiesta Bowl in terms of taste while the difference in texture from frying to four hours later suggests limited shelf-life compared to most other Doughnut Shops.
RECOMMENDED: Mocha Glaze, Bacon.
AVOID: Honey Glaze, Marshmallows, letting them cool.
TIP: For what it is worth, servers were exceedingly pleasant and efficient so the issues did not seem to be related to anything aside from the oil, dough or fryer as compared to what was tasted in Glendale.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Jumbo Lump Crab Cakes – Apple Fennel Slaw, Apple Mustard Vinaigrette
Shrimp and Grits – Cheddar and Bacon Grits, Cajun Beurre Blanc
PB&J – Blackberry Jam Bread Pudding, Peanut Butter Ice Cream
Fresh Baked Cookies – Dark Chocolate Chip, Milk Chocolate Walnut, White Chocolate Pistachio, Bourbon Vanilla Ice Cream
Not a fan of Restaurant Week, the opinion that a donation can be made to one’s favorite charity anonymously without suffering a plug and chug menu for the masses apparently uncommon in modern society, it was largely a result of longtime curiosity that led to dinner at The House of Blues Foundation Room on Saturday night.
Famously known as the lone occupant of Mandalay Bay’s 63rd Floor, a Restaurant-slash-Nightclub that remains one of Sin City’s lone proponents of a dress-code demanding Business Casual or better, it is within the hotel lobby that guests will find elevators behind a velvet rope, the ascent fairly quick to a space designed to impress and staff clearly hired as much for their looks as abilities to seat and serve.
One of eight such venues across America, the recent hiring of Chef Corey Miller from Tom Colicchio’s Craftsteak at MGM promising upcoming menu changes per a middle-aged male waiter, it is after passing by statues of Buddha and other Deities that guests are seated in a room of polished wood with a balcony offering a panoramic view of Las Vegas Boulevard, a “guest-list” and/or cover charge apparently the only way to assure admission after dark on busier nights.
Priced significantly higher than House of Blues Restaurant or recently introduced B-Side, Happy Hour in the spacious Bar offering some good deals Sunday through Thursday while the current Restaurant Week three-course offers over 25% off a collection of longtime signatures, it was with Strip-priced Cocktails deferred that a Bread Basket appeared featuring five options alongside three Dips or Spreads, the fact that some were still warm a nice touch though only the Ciabatta lightly speckled with Olives and Crisps spread with Red Pepper Hummus proved worth more than a single taste.
Playing mid-tempo Pop overhead, the lack of Blues or even Rock telling as much about Foundation Room’s target audience as a menu loosely rooted in the South but otherwise nondescript American ‘Steakhouse,’ it was with “Salmon and a Salad with Dressing on the side” tourists seated on both sides that Foundation Room’s “Jumbo” Lump Crabcakes were presented, the adjective in reference not to portion but the chunks of sweet Crustacean that showed well without much binder beneath a fairly basic Apple and Fennel Salad.
Decidedly curious about $40 Shrimp and Grits, “My Cousin Vinny” quotes about *Magic* Grits seemingly the only explanation for such a price, it was perhaps predictable that neither portion nor presentation outperformed what one gets at Yardbird for $28 or down South for $15, the fact that Shrimp were well cooked but largely overwhelmed by spices and salinity also worth noting.
Excellent in terms of service, both the Waiter and Runners present without being obtrusive and always quick to clear plates or refill Water, it was after Chef Miller toured the room checking in on guests that Dessert was presented, a small ramekin with bubbling Berries at the base and Custard-soaked Cubes of Bread beneath melting Peanut Butter Ice Cream definitely the night’s highlight while “fresh baked” Cookies that arrived no more than five minutes after ordering were probably better described as “warmed-to-order,” the flavors just fine but texture medium-crisp from edge to center and none as noteworthy as the Bourbon Vanilla Ice Cream that is sweet yet subtle and one of the better scoops in Sin City.
TWO AND A HALF STARS: Undeniably a concept more about the scene than its cuisine The House of Blues Foundation Room offers an experience well-suited to tourists and something ‘fancy’ but accessible, though with so many great Restaurants at Mandalay Bay and Rivea offering better views at a similar pricepoint there seems little reason to book a table rather than just stopping in for Ice Cream or a Drink at the Bar.
RECOMMENDED: Bourbon Vanilla Ice Cream, Bread Pudding (PB&J Special for Restaurant Week Only with Apple Calvados the classic preparation.)
AVOID: Nothing was ‘bad,’ but neither the Shrimp & Grits nor Cookies justify their price.
TIP: Dress Code Policy: All attire is welcome with the exception of shorts, sandals, hats, t shirts, sweatshirts, sports apparel, tank tops, sneakers and athletic shoes. Design and logo collared shirts, dress shoes, jeans and blazers are encouraged as long as the design is tactful and any markings are intentional from the designer
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Visited once at its prior location and recently featured as part of a #supportlocal catering initiative it was finally on Saturday that Flock & Fowl Downtown proved convenient, the newly launched Brunch offering daytime hours inside a beautiful space at The Ogden.
Just recently celebrating six months feeding DTLV, Chef Sheridan Su’s acclaim continuing to grow with a James Beard Foundation Semi-Finalist Nod in 2018, guests entering the doors of 150 North Las Vegas Boulevard will quickly find themselves met by ornate wallpaper and a well-stocked Bar, Chef Su’s Wife Jenny present and smiling as she guides guests to their seats and checks in frequently throughout the meal.
Lengthy but not wide with a view across Ogden Avenue not as interesting as the room’s décor, a gentle soundtrack full on this day with the likes of Tame Impala, it was with a frequent tablemate already present sipping Iced Tea that Water was offered, no “tap” suggested but instead a Charcoal filtered product from Vero not infrequently seen in fine dining that carries an unannounced charge of $2 per person.
Placing the new Brunch menu atop Flock & Fowl’s daily options, the words “Brunch without booze is just a sad, late Breakfast” falling on deaf ears with both diners and their waitress also missing the “Choice of a side” that was neither offered nor served despite small print below attempted cleverness, it was in five items that appetites were invested, Chef Su briefly present but the majority of cooking left in Michael Robert Rizzo’s capable hands.
Slightly less than 1/3 full just past noon, Bartender Adam Rains arriving later and enjoying thick-cut French Toast with his daughter at a nearby table, it was with order deferred to one of two waitresses that Kaya Toast first came out, the rarely seen specialty featuring buttery Toast made by Douglas Taylor at Jerry’s Nugget impressing by way of creamy Coconut Jam and a Sunnyside Egg plus reduced Soy though the decision to add Foie Gras was eschewed as it seems like an unnecessary, though fairly priced, up-sell.
Next served a sharable portion of Flock Frites, their omission from catering perhaps fortuitous as an on-site order straight from the fryer proved crisp and oilless with a great blend of Herbs and salinity even before adding umami via Flock Sauce, it was in follow-up that the unassuming Quinoa Salad quickly proved to be a highlight with Grains nicely cooked and slightly tangy while Cauliflower, Almonds, fried Tofu and $3-worth of additional Chinese Sausage provided heterogeneity that never got boring.
Using a Yelp! check-in for one Bao each, the item’s presence on Flock & Fowl Downtown’s menu a reminder of the Su’s start serving Buns at a beauty salon, it was with three great bites of Fried Chicken quickly devoured that more arrived in the hands of a younger waitress inquiring “is this table two?” after previously mis-delivering another plate, the golden organic Bird this time atop two brightly colored Biscuits and sautéed Greens with perfectly poached Eggs and vibrant Citrus Hollandaise.
Offering only two Desserts, though one might consider the French Toast as such during Brunch, it was with fond memories of the Cheesecake from catering still lingering that guests waited fifteen minutes for Flock & Fowl’s Cast Iron Chocolate Chip Cookie, another recipe from Chef Taylor that is served gooey and thick with a big scoop Vanilla Ice Cream and delightfully complex Miso Caramel Sauce.
FOUR STARS: Virtually faultless in terms of Food, the fact that Garlic Hummus was announced as unavailable at the start of the meal in addition to the forgotten Brunch side dish and small service errors another reminder that even a great Chef can be held-back by his staff, it would take little more than a bit of additional training and professionalism for Flock & Fowl to fly alongside Carson Kitchen, Esther’s and Atomic as a true downtown dining destination.
RECOMMENDED: Quinoa Salad with Chinese Sausage, Buttermilk Fried Chicken Benedict, Flock Frites, Cast Iron Chocolate Chip Cookie.
AVOID: N/A, though even minor unannounced charges such as the $2 Water remain a pet-peeve whether in casual or fine dining as it seems nickel-and-dimey.
TIP: Bunch is offered 11a-4p Saturday and Sunday with the full menu offered 5p till close daily.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Triple Layer Cake – Chocolate, Cheesecake, Mocha with Vanilla Frosting
Slow to explore North Las Vegas, a situation not uncommon amongst those interested in Food locally, it was in continued pursuit of Sin City’s best Pan Dulce that a drive was made to Los Portales on Saturday morning, arrival delayed by the Presidential motorcade but shelves still well-stocked a little past 11:30am.
Located at 2630 East Lake Mead Boulevard amidst a series of low-slung buildings, neither cross-street directly leading to a space with its name printed in large letters along exterior walls, those entering Los Portales will do so from a dusty lot, the young bilingual clerk offering greetings from behind one of two counters as she went about her business.
Largely Panaderia and Café but also selling a limited number of Chips plus Soft Drinks, two diners already present eating what looked like Menudo or Pozole plus an enormous Burrito, it was after taking a look at perhaps two dozen items baked on-site that six were selected, the staff’s unwillingness to cut one of several whole Tres Leches Cakes leading to a late addition in the form of a Triple Layer Slice.
Asking to eat the Cake at Los Portales while saving additional items for later, the young lady nonetheless placing a wedge in plastic and bagging it with a fork and napkins, it was after taking a seat amongst tables still littered with plates from prior guests that bites were taken first of each section separate and then as a whole, the Cheesecake layer especially good but all three in one mouthful definitely best as each was divided by a rich ribbon of Chocolate.
Never unsurprised by the low-cost of Mexican Bakeries, no prices listed but a total cost of $6.50 all that was requested, it was approximately two hours later that the rest of the lot was investigated, the Concha light and fluffy with the Sugar on top adhering better than many while both an undersized “Elephant Ear” and Tricolor Cookie were fine, though far from the best in Sin City.
Always happy to see something unexpected, a small Cookie labeled “Flor” not familiar from visits to other Panaderia locally or elsewhere, it was amidst a moist Cornmeal base that this item offered a puddle of sweetened Cream Cheese not unlike Custard, the subsequent two selections both offering thick Guava Jelly with the Empanada nicely caramelized on the outside but still not as good as a Pastelillo featuring Puff Pastry wrapped around a center mellowed by Cream.
THREE STARS: More pleasant in terms of service than some local Mexican Bakeries but also a bit more limited Los Portales warrants a look if one is in the area, a “special trip” perhaps advisable for those who like Cream-based Pan Dulce.
RECOMMEDED: Flor, Pastelillo de Guayaba con Crema, Triple Layer Cake.
AVOID: Polvorone Tricolor and apparently any attempt to obtain a single slice of Tres Leches.
TIP: 6a-8p Monday through Saturday, closes at 5p on Sundays.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Gilroy Flatbread – Garlic White Sauce, Mozzarella Cheese, Italian Sausage, Pepperoni, Salami, Artichokes, Red Onion, Mushroom, Tomatoes
Meat Fest Flatbread – Tomato Sauce, Mozzarella Cheese, Italian Sausage, Pepperoni, Ham, Bacon
Fried Oreos – Vanilla Ice Cream, Chocolate Sauce
Key Lime Cheesecake in a Glass – Whipped Cream, Graham Cracker Crumble
Caramel Apple Crunch – Vanilla Ice Cream, Caramel Sauce
When Golden Gaming announced the hiring of Chef Johnny Church to head up Stratosphere and several other properties in their diverse portfolio it was obvious change was afoot, the subsequent acquisition of Chef Scott Green from Robert Irvine’s Public House to head up their PT’s Entertainment Group branch another bold move that on Wednesday proved worthy of a closer look.
Sporting some fifty-seven locations across the Valley, concepts ranging from PT’s Ranch, Pub and Brewing Company to Sean Patrick’s and Sierra Gold it was at “SG Bar” or “Sierra Gold Elevated” that two friends met for Happy Hour, the space at 9580 West Flamingo Road apparently once owned by Andre Agassi far more attractive than the average 24/7 spot both in terms of décor and layout.
Spacious and virtually smoke-free, a location just off the 215 offering convenience and ample parking, it was immediately on entry that a smiley waitress offered greetings and seats in a rounded booth overlooking several televisions, some tuned to national news and others displaying World Cup highlights or the College World Series.
No stranger to 24/7 eateries on-Strip and off, expectations hopefully gauged appropriately despite having never visited a member of the PT’s family, it was with Iced Tea poured and refilled frequently without request that dinner began with $6 Special Sriracha Chicken Bites and “Loaded” Potato Skins, the former featuring tender White Meat and modest heat for a sizable portion of fourteen while the Skins were nice and crispy on the surface with plenty of Pork packed beneath the Cheese.
Next departing the 5p-7p and 12a-2a Happy Hour for one regular menu item, a $12 Bavarian Pretzel indeed living up to its “Giant” description and on par the best of its kind thanks to a fluffy interior plus plenty of thick Beer Cheese, it was next in two $7 selections that diners indulged, the Chicken Parm Sliders a good idea marred by Tomato Sauce in desperate need of seasoning while the Half-Pound Pub Burger may just be the best in town for such a low price as the finely-ground Patty had plenty of flavor on its own with Aged Cheddar, fresh Vegetables and Sauce not far from a Big Mac adding even more.
Finding Fries a bit limp, Chef Green noting that his first order of business when he begins retooling the menu will be adding Hand Cut Fries to certain locations including SG Bar, it was as a conclusion to savories that two $8 Flatbreads were presented, a 33% off discount during Happy Hour yet another great deal whether one chooses the Vegetarian 3-Cheese or “Meat Fest,” though PT’s signature Gilroy with White Garlic Sauce was the clear winner on this night and would have been even better with a slightly darker Crust.
Closing out the early-evening with three Desserts, each $8 and all served in sharable portions, suffice it to say that SG’s Cheesecake in a Jar would have been more “elevated” had it been thawed longer and not so thick as to be poorly mixable with crumbled Graham Crackers while the Caramel Apple Crunch and Fried Oreos fared better, the former actually a very respectable old-school Crumble with a touch of salinity playing well off the Fruit while diners will get what they expect in the Cookies, but in a larger portion size with light Batter and appropriate frying time leaving the insides intact rather than the typical oily mess.
FOUR STARS: Approached with appropriate expectations, places like Four Kegs, Born And Raised or Aces & Ales plus several others also competing for 24/7 Food, Beverage and gaming dollars, SG Bar delivers the elevated experience it suggests in terms of service and décor while the new Happy Hour menu offers some excellent deals.
TIP: While PT’s Entertainment does own all the concepts detailed above the menu and quality differs across the board, though Chef Green suggests widespread improvement is coming soon.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Churro Bites – Cinnamon-Sugar, Passion Fruit Sauce / Tres Leches Bites – Blackberries, Cajeta
Now going strong for eight weeks, #supportlocal Lunch seeing at least two Pharmaceutical Representatives give up the ease of chains to bring local businesses to their meetings, it was after failed or subpar attempts to serve Mexican Food that a decision was made to involve the professionals at Border Grill inside of Mandalay Bay.
Perhaps not technically a local Restaurant, the original still serving Southern California and anything inside a Casino probably not owned or operated by one’s neighbor, it was actually not until late 2017 that Border Grill Catering was known to exist, Jennifer LaSala Holley from the since-shuttered Forum Shops location first offering that information and subsequently making an introduction to Destiny Hampton who took it from there.
Originally experienced over ten years ago in Santa Monica and as far back as 2013 in Las Vegas, Susan Feniger’s Toledo roots noteworthy to another native and the Food executed locally by Chef Mike Minor consistently bold and flavorful with sustainable sourcing a cornerstone of the concept, it was precisely at 11:30am that Ms. Hampton and one assistant arrived with trays and bowls requiring two trips to the car, the layout far from typical aluminum trays and paper plates with staff actually doing dishes afterwards in order to take home colorful serviceware for themselves.
Requested for twenty-five attendees, the actual number a bit lower as a result of vacations and portions more than generous, it was shortly after all was laid out that diners began to create their own Tacos and heap plates with Chips, Salsa and Guacamole, the lone reference to Café Rio overheard as a particularly picky Medical Assistant stated “their Guacamole is always sort of brown but this is super fresh.”
Seeing Chips and Salsa going quick but nearly a whole bowl remaining at meal’s end it was by way of separate Ingredients and housemade Tortillas that Tacos were assembled to each guest’s liking, the Beef favored by most over Chicken, though those who opted to add crispy Skin to their creation were rewarded by big flavors and textural complexity.
Happily eating more than one allotted Tamale, their smooth and sweet interior almost as much Dessert as Appetizer, it was with a lone complaint that Pinto Beans were undercooked that guests including two Vegetarians went for seconds of Salad balancing a multitude of fresh Vegetables to herbal Dressing, the Beans and Rice well-prepared but treated a lot like the filler that they are as everyone finished with crispy Churro Bites and milky bites off Cake topped in enormous Blackberries with Sauces on the side.
N/A: Making it blog policy to not ‘rate’ places based on catering alone there is no doubt one “gets what they pay for” from Border Grill, a per-person cost approximately 15% higher than other locally owned Taco joints yielding an “experience” instead of just lunch that left even those weary of The Strip impressed.
RECOMMENDED: Chips and Guacamole, Chicken Tacos with Skins, Green Corn Tamales, Tres Leches Bites.
AVOID: Request less Tortillas, Beans and Rice unless the group is particularly ravenous as a lot unfortunately went to waste. Also…Passion Fruit Sauce. : (
TIP: http://www.bordergrill.com/catering/event-catering/ for costs and available items.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
When Chris Palmeri announced a whole new menu at Naked City Pizza on Paradise it was only a matter of time before a visit was planned, Saturday’s pre-concert meal proving a perfect opportunity to gather seven adults plus three children and taste eleven new items including one still in progress plus a couple old favorites.
Still working hard across multiple venues, Christopher stopping by briefly during a typically busy day but otherwise leaving dinner in the capable hands of Robert Chaney, it was with several tables pushed together along the near wall that diners sat with Soft Drinks in hand, Sinatra crooning overhead as the “Happy Plate” arrived featuring housemade Pickles plus Olives and two styles of Cheese, all of it quite good but a “best bite” a Floret of Cauliflower on toasted Bread with a smear of Chevre tinged in Honey.
Going for the gusto next with the aforementioned work-in-progress, an ever-creative Chef planning new catering options with “Pizza Doughnuts” featuring Cheese and Pepperoni at the center of a crispy Fritter, suffice it to say that the table’s self-designated “picky kid” devoured two despite poo-pooing several other items without even a taste, the Pizza Sub that is essentially a toaster-style French Bread Pizza converted into a Sandwich also making a good impression.
Enjoying a big bowl of Fries along with two additional sliced Sandwiches, the Matty P stacked thick with Cold Cuts plus Vegetables slicked in housemade Vinaigrette and Ham Slaw living up to its billing as “the best Ham Salad you ever tasted,” it was next that four new Pastas would arrive, the Cappellini and Sunday Gravy both offering extra-thin Noodles topped in Sauce though only Vegetarians or those on a diet should select the former over that which is upgraded by slowly simmered Beef and Sausage.
Hearing others state the Mushroom Alfredo was a bit “bland,” a lack of overwhelming Salt in comparison to many not unwelcomed by those who appreciate the flavor of Mushrooms, it was nonetheless that all present felt Naked City’s Penne a la Vodka was the best dish of the night with Pasta still featuring some tooth tossed in Sauce that balances Herbs, Meat and Tomatoes elegantly.
Never one to exit any Naked City location without Pizza, a Midwestern childhood built on thicker Crusts making Palmeri’s Pies as reminiscent as they are delicious, it was eschewing the Back Home or Guinea in favor of one dubbed “Buffalo 22” that the crew got their fix, some not loving the Hot Honey as much as others but those who did grabbing extra slices before polishing off a sizable portion of Chicken Parm for just $14 and wrapping things up with Sin City’s best Cannolis.
FIVE STARS: Always taking chances and usually coming up a winner Naked City Pizza remains a quintessential part of Las Vegas’ dining regardless of location, though the place on Paradise remains the most well appointed with the recent menu changes adding yet another reason to visit.
RECOMMENDED: Pizza Sub, A la Vodka, Chicken Parm, Cannolis.
AVOID: Those expecting salty Alfredo as presented by Michelina’s Microwave Meals probably won’t love the Mushroom Fettuccine.
TIP: Although testing well amongst a diverse group Chef Palmeri has not yet put his Pizza Doughnuts on the full-time Menu…but if you ask nicely ya never know.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
With Hockey season finally winding down and a brief lull in his family’s busy schedule it was Saturday morning that Chef Blinn had a few minutes to step away from the stove to say hello, week 129 of the Weekly Brunch Menu in full swing and not a single seat open at CRAFTkitchen in Henderson.
Always a personal favorite and showing no signs of slowing, the service if anything more well-polished than ever despite a jammed pack interior and patio also crowded despite climbing Summer temperatures, it was seated in a coveted window booth that two guests quickly saw Coffee filled and kept that way for two hours, a collection of new items coursed out slowly in addition to one surprisingly never tasted across over a dozen meals.
Still something of a unicorn in terms of concept, nearly everything including Bread made on-site and quality seasonal Produce forming the backbone of a menu people will go out of their way for even though no shortage of Breakfast spots exist in the 702, it was with four all-new Pastries that the morning got underway, Chefs Blinn and Ryan-Small once again outperforming most nationally-famous Bakeries regardless of dietary preferences with the PopTart and Gluten Free Peach Muffin both noteworthy and a Croissant-Muffin hybrid packed by super-sweet Blueberries in Lemon Cream all standouts.
Always happy to partake in Jaret’s city-best Monkey Bread, a sharable portion soaked in molten Frosting that itself justifies an hour-long round trip from home, it was taking a break from sweeter things that weekly special Biscuits and Gravy were presented in thick Pork Sausage Gravy, the stick-to-your-ribs classic featuring a 2×8 inch fluffy base tinged in Rosemary and White Cheddar as good as any in town with a choice of two Eggs in any style on top.
Staying savory for another round, house English Muffins served beneath housemade Carnitas in lightly heated Salsa just one of CRAFTkitchen’s many delicious Bennies, it was on the recommendation of a local encountered at work that the CK House Burger was tasted next, that man’s assertion of “best Burger in the city” potentially accurate thanks to a fluffy Potato Bun that holds up to a meaty grind topped in buttery Cheese which balances nicely against Tomato-Onion Jam and crisp strips of Bacon.
Returning to #everchangingbrunch specials to finish, the fact that Stone Fruits with Cheese had shocked many seemingly educated co-workers not so long ago still a surprise as CRAFTkitchen presented their own delicious combination of Peaches and Burrata atop seasonal Greens with vibrant Vinaigrette, it was perhaps even more surprising that Chef Blinn managed to surpass previously high expectations with a plate of French Toast sandwiching Cheesecake Filling between slices of Texas Toast, the interior turning to Custard-consistency on a new flat-top and all the better with sliced Peaches tossed in Vanilla Sugar…though not quite good enough to forgo a slice of Carrot Cake or previously untasted Brownies and Macarons.
FIVE STARS: Still setting a high bar by paring skill, sourcing and service CRAFTkitchen remains a true “destination” Breakfast in a city where such a thing never existed prior and even those waiting half-an-hour for a table should consider themselves lucky to do so because even in New York or Chicago this place would still stand-out and likely lead to lines much longer.
RECOMMENDED: CK Monkey Bread, Blueberry and Lemon Cream Cruffin, Gluten Free Peach Muffin with Oat Crumble, Biscuits and Gravy, Peach Cheesecake Stuffed French Toast, CK House Burger, Carrot Cake.
AVOID: N/A.
TIP: Per Chef Blinn the recently installed larger cooking surface should allow for shorter waits and more creativity than ever before.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Described as a modern French Bistro near Desert Shores in Summerlin Ohlala has done a remarkable job of accruing good word of mouth for nearly two years despite a lack of advertising, its shopping plaza location not really standing out save for Nittaya’s Secret Kitchen though that may actually be part of the reason as such a space allows for both modest prices and expectations.
Not exactly a “destination” part of Sin City, the proliferation of chains in an HOA-heavy ‘burb well-suited to moneyed clientele that likely feels the epitome of dining in Paris is a smoky Café along the Seine, Ohlala French Bistro is operated by Richard Terzaghi who last owned an Osteria in San Francisco, the owner’s “half French-half Italian” background announced unprompted when explaining why the Restaurant features Mozzarella on its Cheese Plate and Tiramisu on the Dessert Menu.
Filling a prior Restaurant space next to Starbucks, the décor a mish-mash of Pier One ideas, chandeliers and seating ranging from steel bar stools to plush leather banquets, it was shortly after 7/8 of the group was seated that Beverages were poured and Specials described, Richard himself a charming front-of-house sort that genuinely seems to care about customer experience.
Offering a smallish Wine List divided between France and California with fair markups and Food that focuses on France with occasional diversions it was after the final diner arrived that two sharable plates were served alongside outsourced Baguette, the “Royal Charcuterie” a great value allowing all to get a taste of eight different Meats for just $27 while “Le Tout Cheese” brought only one highlight in the “stinky French” Reblochon that apparently warranted three mentions, the rest nothing better than one might find at Walmart and not done any favors by the lone condiment of Pickles.
Most impressed by the smoked Duck amongst the Meats, a plate of Escargot ordered by someone who feigned knowledge of “real” French Food but only ate one Snail smothered in Butter and Herbs also showing well, suffice it to say that although edible the French Onion Soup is in desperate need of some Salt or Beef to match-up against the likes of Bardot or Andre’s while “L’Endive” Salad is far more bitter than it reads thanks too questionable “candying” of the Nuts and Mustard in its Dressing.
Sharing Appetizers but ordering Mains separate, the lack of Duck on Summer’s menu a disappointment to many, it was after considering $32 Lamb which others seemed to enjoy that the decision was made to instead select Sole Meunière, the Escargot-ordering aficionado declaring it “too buttery” while three others including this writer found it nicely prepared and well-balanced by Capers and Citrus, though the limp Asparagus would have benefitted from a little less cooking time.
Allowed to taste another diner’s Fettuccine Carbonara before moving onto Dessert, the heavy use of Cream and thus unnecessary Egg Yolk creating something far richer than delicious and utterly confusing as relates to “authenticity,” it was with a Double Espresso from Illy washing the palate that a Sundae of outsourced Ice Cream and housemade toppings was served in a Jar, nothing about it remarkable or worth $9 but still a fine Sundae.
THREE STARS: Positioned in an area lacking for quality Restaurants Ohlala capitalizes by serving French Classics at a fair price, the results generally good and service exemplary though most dishes fall short in one way or another while décor and ambiance leave a lot to be desired compared to Andre’s or Marche Bacchus , let alone Bouchon and Bardot.
RECOMMENDED: Royal Charcuterie, Sole Meunière, Escargot.
AVOID: French Onion Soup, Pasta Carbonara, Le Tout Cheese.
TIP: 11a-10p Tuesday through Friday, 5p-10p Saturday and Brunch 10a-2p Sunday in addition to Dinner. Free Dessert available via Yelp! Check-in.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
