Samples: Apple Fritter, Ube Oreo, Strawberry n’ Cream, Lemon Pound Cake, Green Tea Yuzu, S’mores with Pecans, Amoretti Cookie, Guava Cheesecake, Mango
Green Tea Yuzu Single
Apple Fritter and S’mores with Pecans Single
Banana Bread
Oatmeal Raisin Cranberry Cookie
With whispers now becoming confirmed that Desyree Alberganti will soon be taking her talents to South…Bend where she will rejoin family after a job change it seems as though time is limited to sample some of the best Gelato served in the United States, though an unknown ‘last day of service’ and promises from the Chef that she will be training new owners prior to her departure gives one reason to hope, even though her smile and charming manner will certainly be missed.
Quickly approaching the second anniversary of a spot that made it cool to open on South Rainbow below the 215, though Desyree’s time at Art of Flavors cannot be forgotten as subsequent ownership fell flat within a year, it was Friday night after dinner that a visit was paid to the tiny shop pitching unique flavors every single day of the week, the beloved owner offering taste after tastes to guests both new and old just as she has from the very beginning.
Amongst the most enticing Instagram accounts in Las Vegas, her videos of each day’s flavors set to a catchy beat always offering at least three reasons why it would be good to stop by, those visiting on Friday were invited to experience flavors including brilliant purple Ube Oreo and favorites like Mango Sorbet alongside new ideas like ‘My S’mores’ with housemade Marshmallows amidst a smooth Chocolate Base given texture by Graham Crackers and a spot-on rendition of Amoretti Cookie, the Green Tea and Yuzu fragrant and light without tasting ‘grassy’ while the Apple Fritter picked up on both the Fruit and Yeast notes of the real thing without the oiliness that deters many.
Still offering a limited number of baked goods on-site, the folks at Sambalatte apparently soon to be in the market for someone new to stock their shelves, those who used to be sad about cookies only offered in three-packs will be happy to know that both the Chocolate Chip with Toffee and soft Oatmeal Raisin Cranberry Cookies are now available single, the latter perfect with a crisp rim and soft center while the Banana Bread stored beneath glass is rich and moist both at the point of purchase and still the morning after.
FIVE STARS: Although one does wonder how the store will fare after Las Vegas’ brightest off-Strip stars departs the fact of the matter is that Gelatology remains one of the best Gelato Shops in America today, the creative juices still flowing and flavors as well as textures good enough to warrant a car rental or Uber from the Strip for visitors with a culinary interest.
RECOMMENDED: Apple Fritter, S’mores with Pecans, Ube Oreo, Guava Cheesecake, Banana Bread, Oatmeal Raisin Cranberry Cookie.
AVOID: N/A.
TIP: Gelatology’s 2-year Anniversary is on Sunday 8/13/17 and will feature all sorts of fun including a selection of all-time favorites as voted by fans. @gelatologylv for more.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Baklava Ice Cream – Vanilla Ice Cream with Baklava
Poised to celebrate their 6 month anniversary on Tuesday Meraki Greek Grill has been nothing less than an Off-Strip sensation since opening its doors, and on Friday evening after a long work week the decision was made to finally check the place out, a bill of just $64 yielding enough high quality fare to have fed at least one more than a party of three and the offerings almost universally on par with anything else of its kind in Sin City.
Owned by Jerry Goumroian of Henderson’s beloved The Great Greek and Nikos Georgousis of Estiatorio Milos fame, the location on South Rainbow in the same plaza that previously housed Elements traditionally considered a tough sell due to its neighborhood, Meraki promises diners a “quality meal with the best service at an affordable price” and from the moment one enters the tile and blue space it is fairly obvious that this isn’t a run-of-the-mill counter order concept, the women running the front of house moving from register to tableside all clearly quite knowledgeable and extremely pleasant.
Defined as “doing something with soul, creativity and love,” the music light and walls decorated in photographs of Greece plus a mural of Zeus, diners at Meraki are invited to peruse both overhead and paper menus before stepping forward to place an order that is paid for up front, the menu ranging from Appetizers and Desserts to Bowls and Sandwiches all made of great ingredients by a kitchen that works quietly, the staff going so far as to course items out so that, even when busy, no table is overwhelmed.
Told that portions were ‘enough but not too big,’ a fair assessment at a pricepoint that sees most Appetizers sold for less than $5 for sharable amounts and no more than $15 for main plates that should sate even the most hearty appetite, it was in Family style on boards that three rounds of Food were served in under sixty minutes, course one comprised of smooth Hummus and a mild Eggplant puree plus fried Kefalograviera Cheese that was both stretchy and elegantly saline, two orders of Falafel delivering eight crisp and oilless nuggets lightly perfumed in Onions, Parsley and Garlic.
Not particularly sold on the Pita, a ‘good enough’ but unremarkable Loaf that is served quartered and warm but not nearly on par with the fluffy housemade pockets at Amena Bakery & Deli, round two saw Nikos and team send out a platter of tender Lamb and Beef served over Fries along with a Lemon-spritzed skewer of Chicken alongside Greek Salad and Tzatziki, the cooling Yogurt not only excellent for creating a makeshift Gyro but also as a dip for Fries, though those looking for something a bit more traditional/healthy may wish to opt for Rice instead.
Offering Iced Tea and Coke products from a Remix Machine, kids meals also making Juice Boxes or Milk available at an extra charge, dinner concluded by way of 4/5 of Meraki’s Dessert selections, the celebrated Baklava Ice Cream a clever way to serve the classic Honey and Walnut Pastry as a mix-in with scoops of Vanilla though purists may prefer the housemade flaky layers served ‘au natural’ in two sizable triangles, the Rice Pudding easily one of the best in Las Vegas for staying simple and being served at room temperature while the $3.79 Semolina Cake is nicely soaked at the bottom but still with some tooth at the top and restrained in its sweetness by light notes of Citrus.
FOUR STARS: Budget friendly, fresh, healthy and well-crafted with a staff that excels in making guests of all ages and backgrounds feel welcome Meraki is yet another example of a talented Casino Chef bringing his skills to the neighborhood, a growing trend that is slowly gaining traction and worth supporting as the Las Vegas dining scene evolves into something more than just a place for Celebrity Chefs and tourists visiting the Strip.
AVOID: Pita is merely average amongst standouts and the Eggplant Puree could have stood to be a bit more deeply smoked to add some complexity past that of the Garlic.
TIP: Open 11-9 Tuesday through Saturday and until 8pm on Sunday. Specials occasionally available so watch Social Media @merakigreeklv
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Previously titled Kerry’s Sports Pub but re-christened “Bacon Bar” after a visit from the television program Bar Rescue in 2013 it was always as sort of a novelty that many locals looked at the 24/7 spot at 3520 North Rancho Drive, former Yardbird Chef Melvin Johnson having recently departed for New York after a remarkably short stay and the Restaurant still, apparently, struggling to make ends meet when an odd twist of fate saw them connected with Christopher Palmeri of Naked City Pizza fame.
Self-applying the term ‘Gastropub,’ though by most standards a Sports Bar not unlike many others in town, the forty-four Beers on tap and 90+ Bottles definitely a focus in addition to the gaming area, televisions and porky décor, it was just past 6:00pm on a Thursday that two friends with no interest in drinking entered the space to a warm welcome from one of two bartenders, the 21+ signage universally predicting a scent of cigarettes that was thankfully short lived thanks to the smoke-free dining area in back.
No doubt a unique situation, the ultra-competitive Las Vegas marketplace quick to claim the dreams of many would-be restaurateurs regardless of skill and the recent shutter of Naked City Tavern due to investor issues a particularly painful loss given its aspirations, it was with Chef Palmeri quickly identified as he was training kitchen staff that pleasantries were exchanged, the ever busy man explaining his consulting role and goals to improve everything by way of simplifying the menu in a “less is more, but better” way.
Less than 1/8 full on a Saturday during a slow part of the sports calendar, national exposure and a theme built on one of America’s favorite indulgences still not enough to hold attention in ever-changing Sin City when the menu is a slipshod arrangement of four different types of bagged Fries, store-bought Pizza Dough and omnipresent Bar Snacks, it was at Palmeri’s discretion that the party of two allowed him to chart the night’s course, a Bacon Bar standby of “Man Candy” placing Applewood Bacon inside a sugary Crust alongside Maple-Whisky Sauce with a little spice, Naked City’s Dough offered next in a puffy spiral surrounding more crisp Pig with a liberal bit of roasted Garlic, Mozzarella and a sidecar of Marinara making for some very good Garlic Knots.
Having always shown a good hand with Sandwiches, the South Buffalo Breakfast and Hot Mama offered as brunch Specials at Naked City Pizza on Paradise without doubt two of the best reasons for tourists to venture off-Strip early on a weekend, Bacon Bar sees Palmeri going Hog wild with the “Porky Pile,” a fork-and-knife event comprised of Pulled Pork, Bacon, and roasted Loin with zippy Sauce and Slaw beneath Cheddar, juices pouring forth with each bite onto hand-cut fries while three types of Pork also find their way onto one of Naked City’s Square Pies with a familiar pillowy Crust plus Garlic, sliced Tomatoes and Arugula tossed in Citrus.
Not yet laying hands on the Dessert Menu, Chef Palmeri at this point taking his leave en route for Paradise and reminding anyone who ever considered such a thing of the rigors of being a Chef with more than one location, it was with the listed Bread Pudding unavailable that the decision was instead made to invest in an oversized “Apple Crunch” and unfortunately overcooked Beignets topped in crumbled Bacon and Powdered Sugar, the former just $7.95 for the sort of decadence best shared by more than two people as Bacon-laced Streusel is baked atop a creamy Cheesecake with stewed Apples, Whipped Cream, slowly-melting Ice Cream and Caramel.
THREE AND A HALF STARS: Allowing Chef Palmeri to take the reins of a floundering concept may just be the smartest move Bacon Bar has made since it switched over from Kerry’s Sports Pub, the menu still a work in progress but already selling items like the Bacon Candle and those listed above plus several Naked City Favorites such as the Guinea Pie and Suicide Fries.
RECOMMENDED: Roasted Garlic Bacon Buns, The B&B Pie, Apple Crunch.
AVOID: Whether a matter of over-working or over-frying the Dough our Bacon Beignets were too heavy and crisp to warrant comparison to those in New Orleans.
TIP: Amongst further menu additions Chris Palmeri has also teamed with food delivery services like UberEats to help bring Naked City Pizza to yet another neighborhood, something folks up North should definitely be happy about both now and come football season.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Get Shorty! – el jimador tequila, grapefruit, fresh lime, cayenne simple syrup
Crispy Chicken Skins – smoked honey
Pig & Fig – pork belly, pickled figs, goat cheese
Filet-Ohhh-Fish – green goddess cole slaw, spicy tots
Pretty Rye for a Chi Guy – george dickel rye, orgeat syrup, velvet falernum, fresh lime, mint
Pork Chop – jalapeño pesto
German Potato Salad – whole grain mustard, chives
Vinho Verde, Gazela Portugal
Shrimp & Antebellum Grits – andouille gravy
Rainbow Cauliflower – garlic, lemon juice
Sea Bass – charred lemon, herbed greens
Purple Haze (Reprise) – nevada h&c sliver dollar vodka, st. elder liqueur, fresh lemon, mint, crème de cassis, blueberry preserve
Berry Hand Pies – blueberry, ginger, gin
Towns End – slow & low whiskey, fernet vittone, amaro del sole, regan’s bitters #6, angostura bitter
Banoffee Pie – irish cream, whipped cream, chocolate biscotti
Now sailing high amongst an ever challenging DTLV dining scene for longer than many Celebrity Chef Restaurants manage to last on-Strip it should go without saying that Carson Kitchen is a quintessential Las Vegas dining experience for locals and visitors alike, Chefs Cory Harwell and John Courtney continuing to reinvent the menu each season with new ideas and fresh products on top of an ever-growing collection of classics.
Soon poised for expansion, the Tattoo Studio next door recently relocated and renovation planning to add more seating plus a proper bar while still maintaining the intimate feel of a space that makes good of low ceilings and a tight kitchen, it was with plans falling through for a four that two diners sat down to taste the new Summer menu at its one-month mark, John fresh off a trip to Europe and filled with ideas while Matthew Harwell continues to oversea a bar program that excels in terms of matching the Chefs in terms of both the innovation and ingredients.
Requesting the Chefs to serve at will, something of a tradition at this point and one that likely won’t change anytime soon as hits outnumber misses at about a 20:1 ratio, it was from seats at the pass that nearly two and a half hours were spent enjoying five rounds of food plus an equal number of cocktails, the opening volley of Girl From Ipanema with mild Brazilian Cachaça and Watermelon a logical pairing to Carson Kitchen’s reinterpreted Watermelon & Feta Salad that this year features Tajin and Raw Onion, a trio of Gyro Tacos with bright Tzatziki every bit as good as memory served while the $12 Grilled Artichoke is a veritable steal considering the fact that all the hard work of cleaning it had already been done by the kitchen.
Next sending out Get Shorty! from the bar, a man from Italy stopping Matthew in his tracks with an identical shirt only moments before three guys in matching Hawaiian button-downs walked through the front door, suffice it to say that the blend of Tequila, Citrus and Spice with a salty Rim went over very well with the lady of the two-top, as too did Cory’s signature Chicken Skins with an all new spice mix that she only reluctantly shared upon realizing that eating too many would prevent an adequate tasting of the crispy new Pig & Fig Flatbread with Arugula and just a touch of Goat Cheese, not to mention the “Filet-Ohhh-Fish” that takes McDonald’s famous square up several notches by adding Shrimp plus Fish Sauce to the Patty before topping it off with herbaceous Cole Slaw.
Scaling back course three as a true pairing, the “Pretty Rye for a Chi Guy” replacing Gin in Al Capone’s favorite Cocktail with George Dickel Rye but bringing back some of the freshness by way of Lime and Mint, those who enjoy a simple piece of grilled Meat will be happy to see Carson Kitchen once again serving top quality Pork at a great price, the bone-in Chop atop ‘jalapesto’ simple yet succulent while a personal distaste for Mustard made the German Potato Salad largely irrelevant.
Opting to show off a newly offered wine called Vinho Verde with the meal’s final savory course, a light body and tiny bubbles amidst mild sweetness expectedly pairing well to fish, those who enjoyed last year’s grilled Sea Bass with Herb Salad will be happy to know it is back and as beautiful as ever, the Rainbow Cauliflower an equally great dish despite its simplicity while the Shrimp & Antebellum Grits sees Chef Courtney and team frying the Bob’s Red Mill special order into soft Polenta-style cubes before adding a handful of tailless Crustaceans and housemade Andouille Sausage to the mix.
Continuing to offer the ever-enjoyable Brownie and Bread Pudding while updating Dessert by way of a seasonal Handpie baked up light around Gin-soaked Blueberries and Ginger it was while sipping the Purple Haze (Reprise) that a surprise was presented, Harwell & Co’s Banoffee Pie Jar announcing its return this fall and still one of Sin City’s best Desserts, whether alongside the bitter yet slowly building smoothness of a Town’s End or Coffee as usual.
FIVE STARS: Nothing has changed except the menu, and if anything it is better than ever, so why would the rating change?
RECOMMENDED: All the Classics plus Pretty Rye for a Chi Guy, Shrimp & Antebellum Grits, Pork Chop and Grilled Artichoke.
AVOID: Those who don’t like Mustard may want to avoid the German Potato Salad…though I guess the same could be said for those who don’t like Feta avoiding the Gyro Tacos…honestly, there are no duds on the current menu.
TIP: Setting aside Standard & Pour, the people of Henderson simply not ready for cuisine of that caliber, Cory and John seem to have a full plate on their hands with the Carson Kitchen expansion and Ally Cat…plus, y’know, the upcoming Fall Menu (aka Banoffee Season) and Life Is Beautiful traffic.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
When it was made known in mid-2016 that Station Casinos planned to purchase The Palms it was with a watchful eye that changes were gauged at a distance, suggestions that Alize would not be affected thus far holding true aside from Chris Bulen stepping down as Chef and rumors that the Buffet would be closed largely irrelevant, the biggest news since the takeover coming when newly promoted Corporate Executive Chef Joseph Kudrak announced that Lucky Penny had been born from the previous 24 Seven Café Space.
Breaking with tradition for Station Casinos nomenclature, each of their prior properties including Red Rock labeling the all-day and all-night dining option as simply “Grand Café” with the majority of these locations executing better than necessary, Lucky Penny shows a lot of forward thinking in terms of both branding and décor, the formerly dark space now open widely to the gaming floor with plenty of televisions, gold chandeliers and marble plus several unique touches including neon affirmations and cute creatures made of discarded household items.
Not hiding its ‘everything to everyone’ aspirations, a necessity for any Restaurant intending to keep up with the likes of HeXx, Grand Lux or Mr. Lucky’s, it was just past 6:00pm on a Friday that five diners sat down at a large table toward the back of the space where Chef Kudrak was currently helping cooks dial in a menu featuring no less than fifty items, everything from Pancakes to a Lobster Roll and Mongolian Beef offered alongside specialty Cocktails and Shakes, the meal divided into four courses and starting out with Breakfast that featured lemony Eggs Benedict served with crispy Potato squares plus Custard-soaked Chai Latte French Toast flanked in Whipped Cream and a big stack of fluffy Cinnaroll Pancakes dripping with Cream Cheese Frosting.
Part self-selecting the menu and part allowing the kitchen to fill in with some of their favorites it was after some debate as to just how much of the triple-stack to enjoy that servers reset the table for a round of appetizers, two big Shakes with a creamy base and carefully crafted balance soon joining soft-drinks and an unfortunately flat Nitro Coffee as the group received Mexican, Chinese and American favorites; the Pot stickers fairly dull in terms of their filling while both the Tortilla topped in spicy Chicken and the skewered Buffalo Wings fared far better, the former particularly noteworthy as it eats lighter than one would guess with the stuffed Tortilla fried up crisp yet virtually oilless.
Serving Entrees and Sides as a slow roll-out over the course of thirty minutes it was here that Las Vegas gained yet another entry in the race for best Chicken and Waffles, the “Almost Boneless” Breasts pounded out and perfectly tender in golden Batter atop Drop Biscuits taken to the Waffle iron while the Walnut Shrimp and Kung Pao Spaghetti were both on par with any similar plate on Spring Mountain Road, though the later would potentially benefit from a thinner style of Noodle.
Lightening things up a bit with some Greens, the chopped Kale and Apples tossed with Endive, Grapes and Walnuts taken up a notch by bright Vinaigrette, those thinking that Lucky Penny would go ‘boring’ in its American offerings will be surprised to realize that both the dunkable ‘Waffle’ Grilled Cheese and Steak Frites with Paprika Fries and herbal Aioli are the sort of thing one might see on the lunch menu at Delmonico, the Margherita Pizza bubbling up with a good blister and leopard spotted underside topped in hand-crushed Tomatoes and imported Buffalo Mozzarella.
At this point well sated with several unfinished plates boxed as leftovers Chef Kudrak once again stopped by to explain how he did not want Lucky Penny’s Desserts to be ‘generic,’ the decision to instead bring on a full-time Pastry Chef paying immediate dividends not only in terms of the to-go case up front but the menu’s opening lineup of Triple Chocolate Cake served with a spiral of Mousse, a piping-hot Chocolate Brownie served with Vanilla Ice Cream and Red Velvet Cookie spokes and the “Inverted Key Lime Pie” that would not look out of place on the menu at Yardbird, CUT or even perhaps L’Atelier.
FOUR STARS: Fulfilling a promise to update The Palms to modern times, and taking a chance in breaking tradition with an entirely new 24/7 concept despite the obvious success of Grand Café across several venues, Station Casinos appears to have a winner on its hands with Lucky Penny, the ‘necessary’ Hotel dining option doing more than just satisfying its role and actually presenting several dishes on par with restaurants nearly twice its pricepoint in an environment that is both casual and inviting.
RECOMMENDED: Cinnaroll Pancakes, Panucho, Old Fashion Cherry Bombe, Almost Boneless Fried Chicken, Steak Frites, Inverted Key Lime Pie, Chocolate Twist.
AVOID: Nitro Coffee lacked any head or bubbles, Gyoza filling needs a lot of work and the Mixed Berry Danish needs more filling.
TIP: Menu photos attached as it is not currently listed online, all options available 24/7/365.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Sea Urchin, Preserved Black Walnut, Dates, Lemongrass, Pedro Ximenez (Not Photographed)
Short Rib, Plantain, Black Garlic, Leaves
Lamb Heart, Malt, Rice, Mulberry, Sheep’s Cheese
Mulberry, Vinegar
Clove, Santa Rosa Plum, Butterfly Pea Berry Meringue, Mozzarella Milk
Rambutan, Celtuce, Cucumber, White Chocolate
Digestifs – Strawberry, Plum, Herb
Imagine a restaurant that operates largely without the purpose of making money, the funding for both location and talent supplied by a source to which such things are far less relevant than creating an experience…a “reverie designed as an ephemeral art installation, based on meditation and portrayed through the act of eating.” Sound a bit self-indulgent? A bit heavy? Still interested? If so, then please sit down to five hours at Vespertine.
Opened in early-July 2017, the reason behind Jordan Kahn’s choice to locate Destroyer in a soulless section of Culver City suddenly making much more sense when it was announced that the Eric Owen Moss designed building across the street would play host to the Chef’s 20+ course tasting menu, it was with four friends divided across two tables that ~$350.00 per person was paid up-front by Tock for a 9pm reservation during week three of service, the car’s arrival greeted by a cloaked man coaxing it forward with one hand and doors opening to the drone of a soundtrack with no discernible beginning or ending.
Described as a “place of shadows and whispers” and “a spirit between two worlds” in marketing materials, or as “Intentionally joyless” in a controversial review by The Hollywood Reporter, diners visiting Vespertine are quickly cognizant of the fact that this is not a typical meal from the moment they set foot on ground and through a system of short, forced phrases each guest is instructed to ascend an elevator to floor two where Chef Kahn offers a brief greeting and ‘rules’ undisclosed in the terms of sale, one of these a suggestion that photography is discouraged.
Ever the artist, an e-mail after the experience claiming the photo policy exists because “it is critical that each future guest who comes in has the same opportunity that you and your guests had, and to expose them to parts of the experience in advance would be unfair,” but quickly debunking such claims by releasing several photos to Eater Los Angeles just days later, it is after the welcome that guests again ascend two stories to an open foyer looking out on city lights and a suspended Cactus Garden where courses one through six are served, vessels from ceramicist Ryota Aoki presenting everything from an alcoholic beverage built around a blooming Flower to a sizable Cookie of Burnt Onion and Wild Currants and a spearhead served with no explanation that tastes mostly like soot and Licorice.
About one hour in at this point, the beanbag chairs and lighted pegs of the lounge soon giving way to sliding acrylic tables arranged in an awkward manner with all guests looking inward save for a those seated centrally and closest to the window, it was as the doom and gloom soundtrack continued to play that larger plates began with a dish that at first appeared to be nothing but ash before revealing itself as thin slices of ‘Bastard Flounder’ alongside salted Plum with a Yogurt base and more smoked Onion, the flavors pleasant and balanced like that of the Cookie but far too large in portion and followed by an awkward white vessel filled with White Asparagus, Buttermilk and Oats plus…Onion.
Claiming later that “each night we have been open, we have seen guests become emotional during their meal, as the experience amplifies the energy and feeling a guest carries with them” it was here at course nine that the first true ‘emotion’ was shared by all at the table, a nearly-impossible to navigate slotted sphere universally painful thanks to the bitter blend of Radishes, Sunchokes and even more Onion slicked by Egg Yolk while the follow-up of Fish Eggs and Cream Cheese stuck to a mossy mortar offered another overly-large portion with a flavor something like Lox on an Everything Bagel.
Frequently showing his roots in Pastry by using manipulated ingredients and concealed textures, the ‘Red Spinach’ dish one of the night’s best with folds of fuchsia hiding a Sorghum sweetened Pudding of Tapioca, Lobster and Beets with an astringent finish, it was as hour three approached that the first ‘formed’ protein of the meal arrived, a rare appearance for Turkey in fine dining finding the Bird juicy and moist amidst Ancient Grains, acid and a hint of Tarragon.
Expecting the meal to have neared its finish with the Poutry, a black tin-foil package of Berries arriving as if to cleanse the palate, Jordan instead followed with an inverted frozen-Pea diamond filled with Kiwi, Sunflower and Spruce, the ‘show’ clearly getting in the way of the game as the experience was akin to eating a vegetal Fla-Vor-Ice, though the back-to-back duo of Dungeness Crab beneath White Mushrooms and Chicken Mousse amidst confit Apples and Mochi showed a lot of promise with appropriate portions and sweet positioned next to savory in careful balance.
Having already seen the table to the right finish, though a duo to the left and two friends both threw in the towel early thanks to liberal pours, too much food and the time now well-past midnight, it was with three remaining that Uni was offered along with Black Walnuts and Dates soaked in P.X. followed by braised Short Ribs atop an overripe Plantain, the use of Black Garlic as a Beef-substitute for Vegetarians an odd choice before the night’s “Cheese Course” placed Ewe’s Milk beneath Rice Crackers, Mulberry and a Tartare of Lamb’s Heart.
At this point barely awake, the day having begun nearly 23-hours prior with a drive from Las Vegas, Dessert entailed three courses including sheets of Mulberry atop unnamed acidic ingredients followed by a brilliant amethyst display of Santa Rosa Plums and Pea Berry embedded in sticky Meringue, the Alien looking donut arriving just prior to 2:00am wrapping things up with a dehydrated ribbon of Celtuce Stem that started fruity before dissipating with refreshing hint of Cucumber and smooth White Chocolate.
Offered ‘gifts’ before departing, a vial of grassy Cologne (or is it a spritzer of seasoning?) left on the ground floor, it was largely due to pre-paying $30 that the quintet decided to gather in the garden for approximately ten minutes, a few housemade digestifs far too potent to be enjoyed by most offered in unlimited portions along with Coffee or Tea while one is encouraged to prolong “an energy exchange and flow in and out of [their] consciousness.”
Torta Al Cioccolato – Dark Chocolate Olive Oil Cake, Vanilla Ice Cream
When respected LA Times reviewer Jonathan Gold lost his mind over Brentwood’s Pizzana one could not help but take notice, the comparisons to Franco Pepe leaving some well-traveled gourmands who’ve been to both in stitches but enough to justify a reservation to see if Chef Daniele Uditi has really brought a world-class Pizzeria to The City of Angels.
Located on San Vicente Boulvard in one of the few parts of Los Angeles still lacking a restaurant worth traversing the city for, particularly with hotspots in Santa Monica and Beverly Hills on either side, Pizzana opened in April as a partnership between the team behind Sprinkles Cupcakes and George Clooney’s Robin, Chris O’Donnell, the space sleek and lengthy with high ceilings and the focal point an imported Wood-burning oven at the center of a marble and tile kitchen.
Dining as a duo after a four-stop morning with 9:00pm reservations at Vespertine, an aggressive eating agenda by any standard, it was just past four o’clock that the space was found largely empty and securing a meter down the way before walking in a choice of seats was offered, indoors proving to be best as several loud business-y sorts were gathered on the patio sipping Wine alongside Salads.
A stereotypical Los Angeles restaurant in terms of service, good looking waitresses and male models reciting recommendations like they are reading a script but unable to answer simple questions about “Sunday Gravy” that the young woman described as a ‘white sauce,’ it was with shoulders shrugged and intuition followed that the “signature” Neo Margherita and Pignatiello were ordered, a fifteen minute wait soon seeing two rounds of 48-hour fermented Dough delivered with steam still rising from the Crust and Cheese bubbling.
Waiting a few minutes for Pies to cool, a burned mouth before a lengthy and expensive dinner certainly in no one’s best interest, it was with a slice of the green-tinged Margherita that tasting got started, the leopard-spotted Crust smoky and stiff enough to maintain its structure when picked up but still puffy with yeastiness that helps carry the Basil and reduced San Marzanos aloft while the Pignatiello, in fact, features a slow cooked Meat Sauce fortified with Short Ribs beneath housemade Fior di Latte and Parmesan Cream.
No doubt complex pies, the layering of flavors and crust structure both speaking to a Pizzaiolo who understands his craft, it was with nearly every bite finished that the Dessert menu was perused after feeding the meter and although stomach capacity was indeed at a premium one simply does turn down Neapolitan Ice Cream or Olive Oil Cake at an Italian Restaurant, the former featuring Sprinkles Ice Cream good but a bit too sweet without the liberal addition of Bitter Dark Chocolate Fudge while the nearly black square with a thick layer of Frosting was rich yet light with a subtle fruity finish.
Long on a list of places ‘to-do’ in Los Angeles, the location in Santa Monica convenient enough but business hours having never presented an opportunity prior, it was as a result of a friend’s flat tire that the decision was made to stop by Cookie Good for Dessert after driving across town from Howlin’ Rays, a similar husband and wife situation finding Melanie and Ross Canter turning out Cookies, Brownies and Bars intended to create smiles by sweetness instead of fire.
Named after the feeling of an unaware-bliss created by the first bite of a cookie, the store tiny and white brick with a menu of daily choices along one side plus a sizeable kitchen in back, guests visiting Cookie Good will immediately be drawn to a case of baked goods directly left of the smiling face of an employee ready to take orders, the choices ranging from good ‘ol fashion Chocolate Chip to a Sugar Cookie made with pulverized Cheetos.
Officially opened in 2014, though an online business preceded with such acclaim that the couple simply outgrew both their home and commercial kitchens, Cookie Good promises guests an experience that will “make you remember something wonderful” and although most will not recall their Mother or Great Grandmother making things as interesting as soft puddle of Dough infused with Caramel or Pretzel Pieces the small batch method undoubtedly pays dividends, as does the use of quality ingredients.
Weighing in at just under 2oz per Cookie, smaller than those at Milk Jar or Friends & Family but also at a slightly lower price, each Cookie Good creation starts with Organic Flour, local Butter and Whole Milk before adding ingredients such as Callebaut Chocolate and a jumble of ingredients both commercial and housemade, the bright orange Sugar Cookie, for instance, taking pulverized Cheese Puffs and mixing them at about a 1/3 ratio to traditional Cake flour to yield something that is not exactly ‘delicious,’ but certainly unique and certainly not unpleasant.
Moving next to somewhat more traditional choices, though the truly straight forward options were left for another time simply because Chef Canter has so much to offer in terms of creativity, the “Rice Krispies Treat” disguised as a Cookie proved to be very much like gooey treat with a bit less tooth thanks to the Sugar Cookie base while S’mores, Chocolate Chip Brownie Chunk and the aforementioned Caramel Pretzel Chocolate concoction all put their stock in a Brown Butter and Vanilla Dough.
More than a little impressed to this point, the Ice Cream Sundae another memorable bite with Sprinkles, Cone Pieces plus White and Dark Chocolate held adrift in a very sweet matrix, those looking for something with a bit more heft will be glad to know Cookie Good also offers Brownies and Bars, the Banana Cream Pie Blondie not unlike the classic Pie in terms of flavor and more moist than traditional Banana Bread thanks to Heavy Cream added to the mix.
Medium Half Bird – Breast + Wing + Leg + Thigh + Pickles
Medium Chicken Sando – Boneless Breast + Slaw + Comeback Sauce + Pickles + Butter Bun
Hot Chicken & Waffles – Leg + Thigh + Butter + Maple Syrup
Hot Shake Fries, Extra Pickles
Braised Collard Greens, Cider Vinegar Slaw, Extra Pickles
If one were to guess the cause of a three-plus hour line in Chinatown’s Far East Plaza it would not be unreasonable to assume Angelinos were losing their mind over a new Ramen concoction or Rainbow colored anything, yet despite its odd location Howlin’ Rays already has that sort of queue ninety minutes before the doors unlock, the group of guys with growlers of Craft Beer sitting at Picnic Tables having arrived first just past 8:45 that morning.
Nothing short of an overnight sensation, Los Angeles having hardly even heard of Nashville-style Hot Chicken prior to June 2015, Howlin’ Rays is the brainchild of Johnny Ray Zone and although most in his line have probably never had the opportunity to check out Prince’s, Hattie B’s or the original Gus’ – which has now invaded their backyard – it is fair to say that Chef Zone has not only taken the idea and run with it, but that he has also improved on the recipe in many ways.
Currently open just 11a-4p Wednesday through Sunday, though plans to expand the footprint of a tightly packed kitchen to the space next door may see that change, it is said that Johnny originally fell in love with Hot Chicken while working with Sean Brock during the early days of Husk’s Tennessee expansion and originally starting out as a truck it was in early 2016 that he and his wife located their storefront, the line slowly building day by day much to the Chef’s delight.
Still very much a hands-on Owner, back to the chaos with a big smile on his face as he expedites box after box in close quarters to a tiny ordering podium tucked into one corner, it is during the final minutes in line that diners finally start to smell the spices billowing out a door with traffic both coming and going, the team of eight working quick yet efficiently with Mary’s Organic Chicken in and out of the fryer at a breakneck pace that virtually guarantees every single box comes out so blistering hot that guests will still have to wait a few extra minutes to eat.
Drawing a diverse crowd, men and women of all ages and races lining up and then sitting down to experience what all the fuss is about, it was with two Chefs including one who previously worked with Johnny that three plates and four sides were shared, none foolish enough to don the white surgical gloves necessary to taste “X-Hot” or “Howlin’” and the majority of patrons likely to break a sweat with even just “Medium.”
Sourcing a superior Bird, the antibiotic-free organic Chickens from Mary’s a longtime fine dining standard, those familiar with Hot Chicken will quickly realize the difference in size between a Breast or Thigh at Howlin’ Rays versus those in Nashville as these are substantially larger with higher moisture content and a crackling skin beneath the batter, his use of freshly ground Cayenne and other Peppers in varying ratios creating a layered effect that is mild up front before picking up mid-palate like a good wine.
Joining the flocks of fans who feel Medium is best, the light tingle on lips plus a sinus-clearing burn still allowing one to enjoy sides including smoky Collard Greens, crispy French Fries and Vinegar Slaw or housemade Pickles that help to quell the heat, those who want to turn things up a notch may wish to consider the “Hot” option, a nearly two-fold increase in Scoville Units will leave most mouths numb, particularly if one were to place it in the setting of the “Chicken Sando” covered with Mississippi’s famous “Mayonnaise and Fire” Comeback Sauce.
Truly a raucous setting, the vibe not dissimilar to Franklin Barbeque in Austin where ownership is similarly invested in creating a shared ‘experience’ centered on food, those willing to brave the line on Weekends will be rewarded beyond Chicken and Sides by the only thing remotely ‘sweet’ made at Howlin Ray’s, the fluffy four-wedge Waffle served with a Quarter Bird, Boneless Breast or Wings for just $14 proving better than most in Los Angeles with Butter and Real Maple Syrup that makes an excellent dance partner to the hot and juicy Meat.
Dungeness Crab Quiche – Lemon Zest, Dill and Chives
Baked Buckwheat Pancake – Blackberry Compote and Barrel Aged Maple Syrup
Croissant French Toast – Cherry Compote and Barrel Aged Maple Syrup
Opened in early May 2017, another unique Los Angeles entity featuring a Food and Market concept located in Thai Town, Friends & Family from Daniel Mattern and Roxana Jullapat had been widely anticipated thanks to the duo’s previous work at Cooks County and although thus far only offering Breakfast and Lunch the initial word has been good, so good in fact that a visit with two others on Saturday morning saw over $100 spent on a Baker’s Dozen Baked Goods and three Breakfast Plates just past 8:00am.
Described by the simple phrase “Good Food” and found on the corner of Hollywood and Winona Boulevard, the interior spacious and airy with big windows flooding the space in sunlight, diners visiting Friends & Family early can likely find free parking along one of the nearby side streets while those arriving later would be well advised to grab a meter just outside.
Capable of seating around sixty across two rooms, the leather chairs comfortable whether at a table or a windowside bar made of wood, it was seconds after entering Friends & Family that guests were welcomed from behind the counter and although the temptation may be to first check out a dry goods section or refrigerator of Cheeses, Drinks and Puddings the smart money is on stepping right up to grab a menu while also paying close attention to the day’s variety of fresh-baked Pastries.
In many ways a rustic sort of place, the baked goods mostly referencing American Comfort Foods while the morning menu ranges from Eggs or Quiche to Pancakes and French Toast it was with three cups of Counter Culture Coffee brewing that a process of “what not to order” ensued, the waitress smiling as the ‘less worthy’ of nearly two-dozen options were scratched, though even then a desirable Caramel Brownie and Peach Pie were also omitted accidentally.
Apparently owned by the same team behind Trejo’s Coffee and Donuts, a spot enjoyed just prior to driving down Hollywood to meet friends, it was with three plates in hand and four to come that a seat was found near a wall scrawled in orange and white foliage, first bites of the Sonora Wheat Croissant briefly sending up a red flag as it was dry and flavorless though the Almond filled wedge of Pie and Ricotta Pound Cake both quickly put minds at ease by way buttery textures, good density and restrained sweetness.
At this point receiving a plate of three warmed-to-order savories, the White Cheddar Biscuit really nothing to write home about while both the Summer Corn Hand Pie and Spinach Breakfast Galette fared far better thanks to flaky Dough encircling quality produce, those who fancy Dill would be well advised to check out Chef Mattern’s Dungeness Crab Quiche even though the Crust was a touch too dark.
Transitioning back to sweet with sips of an Americano and the occasional bite of Galette between it was from the same plate as a light and airy Oat Flour Donut that Chef Jullapat’s two best Pastries were tasted, the Blue on Blue Scone sweet and moist compared to its British roots and the Citrus Muffin tangy with smoothness that made it seem as though it were made of little more than Flour floating in fresh Lemon Curd.
Saving four Cookies for last, the Coconut and Caramel ‘Trouble’ as well as an Oatmeal Date round both perfect with a just-set center inside a crispy rim, those looking for something a little more substantial would do well to invest $11 or $12, respectively, in either the fried Croissant “French Toast” or a dense Buckwheat Pancake that each come with housemade Fruit Compote and Barrel Aged 100% Maple Syrup.
Three Amigos – Raised Donut / Tres Leches Bath / Tres Leches Glaze
While the phrase “What Happens in Vegas Stays in Vegas” may indeed hold true, “Only in Los Angeles” often seems to be equally applicable, a recent 3am drive to the City of Angels beginning with a visit to the bright pink Donut Shop owned by ex-con, Hollywood Icon and unlikely restaurateur Danny Trejo.
Located at the corner of Highland Avenue and Santa Monica Blvd, an almost impossible to miss location thanks to its color and a mural of the man who played Machete on glass, Trejo’s Coffee & Donuts began opening its doors at 7am daily on May 16 of this year and although initial reviews have been luke-warm based on long waits and ‘high’ prices this particular Saturday nonetheless showed a group beginning to form at 6:45am, the team inside a friendly group ready to answer questions but equally capable of moving the queue along.
Appearing to have been a different sort of space in its prior life, the floorspace tight with just a standing-bar available for dining in, it was with most Donuts still warm that the rotating selection was debated, an eventual order of seven tallying just over $20 with Tax plus Tip and taken outside to the curb, past a bench occupied by vagrants working the line, to eat.
Not overly branded, the boxes stamped and walls adorned with art praising fried Dough, it was with items unboxed that a first taste was taken of Trejo’s already well-Instagrammed “Nacho” Donut, the raised ring glazed in sweated Jalapenos and Hot Sauce beneath melted Cheddar and Chives proving ‘interesting’ in that it really does taste like a Ballpark snack while the Maple Pig raises the bar for its genre with real Syrup, Brown Sugar Bacon and a hint of Vanilla.
Working with Raised, Filled, Cake and Vegan choices, the latter postponed to another day based on a lengthy day of eating to follow, Trejo’s Piñata Cake proved to be a delicious choice with good balance between the Buttermilk base and Sweet Cream flecked with Sprinkles, the ‘Fritter’ unfortunately faring less well due to a dearth of Pineapple and a texture that eats more like a homogenous ball of Dough than a thin and crispy mix of Fruit, Cinnamon, Oil and Batter.
Still holding onto some residual heat even twenty minutes after ordering, a fact that made eating with care pertinent for those not wanting to make a mess of glaze, it was with the Café Con Leche confirming that Trejo’s puts Vanilla *in* the base that this selection proved to be far more interesting than the typical Coffee Donut, a similar bit of praise applicable to a pocket of Rice Milk Pudding topped with thick white Frosting though neither were quite as good as the sopping wet Three Amigos featuring a raised Donut fortified with Evaporated Milk soaked in a sugary Condensed Milk and Cream Bath.
Gold Bar, Hazelnut, Chocolate, Passion Fruit-Mango Gelee
When Jean Georges Steakhouse closed its doors in June for a touch up there was an audible sigh of relief, a hotel that has not been shy to blow up concepts instead doing right by simply brightening the façade and updating wallpaper while Chef Sean Griffin benefitted from a trip to help the boss open up shop in Los Angeles and a return to new menus, a kitchen Herb garden and some fun service items.
Using the clever slogan of “The only thing aging is our Steaks” throughout the update, though in reality the dining room had always been one of the most modern of Las Vegas’ top-tier Steakhouses, it was as a party of three that a visit was paid to the newly re-opened space just one day after Chef Vongerichten had departed, the facility changes only obvious to regulars looking for them while the seasonal menu update speaks to a restaurant continuously focused on perfecting each guest’s dining experience.
If anything less-stylized than prior, abstract Cows gone but overhead music still energetic with the wall of wine untouched and new chairs apparently coming soon, it was after greetings at the podium that guests were led to a table with good lighting towards the back of the room, Chef Griffin stopping by to say hello along with the GM and a Carte Blanche Dinner soon to start with a glass of Bubbles and Parker House-inspired Brioche served with Herb Butter.
Frequently starting tasting menus with Caviar, the Egg Caviar one of those beloved signatures still offered daily at his Michelin 3* New York Flagship, it was on a sous vide Egg Yolk sandwiched between Buttered Brioche that a heap of Golden Osetra was piled to begin a three-hour night unveiled in five courses, three refreshing and well balanced Cocktails arriving just moments before the Steakhouse’s signature Wagyu Carpaccio Gougeres, a bright Tomato Salad featuring an Intuitive Forager’s bounty and a ‘very Jean Georges’ plate of Japanese Snapper with Pickled Cherry Peppers, Mint and Toasted Sesame Seeds that was served as part of a Wine dinner the evening prior.
Continuing to work with certain ingredients, an ‘if it isn’t broke, don’t fix it’ sort of mentality that currently sees Griffin’s Bacon Wrapped Shrimp prepared with White Peach Mustard and just a touch of Horseradish, those who’ve been lucky enough to try Jean George Steakhouse’s Foie Gras in the past will be happy to see the Pepper Crusted Steak is back with a Marcona Almond Crunch and Strawberries, though the version on this particularly night was instead offered with reduced Black Cherries and Celery Leaf plus a kiss of Amaretto.
Slowly enjoying Sweet Corn Soup poured tableside, the heat, Citrus and Ginger all speaking volumes about Sean’s ability to adapt Vongerichten’s style to the season, course three included a flaky filet of Mikuni Wild Harvest Halibut paired to crunchy Potatoes and pickled Peppers, the Organic Chicken served next to it still Sin City’s best Fried Bird and easily large enough to be shared for those dining on a budget.
Anticipating big things as part of the entrees, the menu now even more loaded in top quality cuts from some of the World’s best purveyors than before, it was with a tableside show that Chef Griffin and a waitress prepared three types of protein; Lamb Chops with a light kick grassy and tender while Short Ribs dressed in Flowers required no more than a spoon to be liberated from the Bone, a whole Wagyu Brisket still jiggly when presented proving buttery soft to the knife with fat completely melted beneath the beautifully charred bark rich with flavors of housemade Doenjang.
Going Surf n’ Turf with a half-pound of King Crab Legs and forearm-size Prawns soaked in Butter, sides on this particular night continuing to speak volumes about Jean George’s ingredients, the Robuchon-esque Potatoes and head-turning Bone Marrow once again earning “must order” approval while the Sweet Corn Polenta with Truffles, Spicy Broccolini and Tempura’d Whole Cauliflower were all new additions that continued to display the Restaurant’s dominance in a city where places like Carnevino and CUT also strive to make the items served *with* the Steak an equally integral part of the meal.
At this point pretty well sated, or in other words stuffed, it was alongside an Iced Double Espresso that two familiar faces were presented alongside a returned seasonal favorite and one new showstopper, the Apple Pie still head and shoulders above any other in Sin City while Harry’s Strawberries came in a half-dozen forms as part of the buttery Linzer with a hint of Licorice, the 100% Jean Georges Gold Bar outperforming a personal bias against Passion Fruit by mellowing the oft-cloying flavor with creamy Hazelnut Mousse, Mango and plenty of Milk Chocolate.
FIVE STARS: Though many well-traveled diners may poo-poo Las Vegas as the land of Celebrity Chefs and enormous dining rooms, Jean Georges Steakhouse definitely fitting the bill on both accounts, it would be hard for anyone to name a better collection of Steaks, Sides and Entrees than what is on display at Aria’s 2nd Floor elderstatesman in 2017, the recent renovations making the space even more inviting while the kitchen led by Sean Griffin continues to perform on a World Class level even when filled.
AVOID: Passion Fruit is still not a favorite, though this version rival’s that of a similar composition at Gwen in Los Angeles for most mild use of the ingredient in a Dessert. Also, items like the Cauliflower and Corn Polenta were served as off-menu specials and may not be available every day.
TIP: 5:30p-10:30p daily and still offering the six-course tasting for a bargain price of $130 per diner.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Plate 2.3 – Baby Back Ribs, Smoked Pulled Pork, Laura’s BBQ Baked Beans, Collard Greens, Macaroni and Cheese, Cornbread Muffin
Plate 2.3 – Hot Link, Chicken Chorizo Sausage, Buffalo Style Smoked Peg Leg Chicken, Pasta Salad, Macaroni and Cheese, Corn on the Cob
Banana Pudding with Shortbread Cookies
Bob’s Key Lime Pie
Open for approximately three months on West Warm Springs Road, Southwest Las Vegas’ dining scene continuing to grow by leaps and bounds, Tennesseasonings sees the Harris family bring a unique style of regional Barbeque to Sin City, the couple from Chattanooga certainly not shooting for Texas or Kansas City in style and equally far from the Mop-sauces offered in the Western half of their home State.
Located in the streetside storefront of the same strip mall as Japaneiro, the interior bright with Volunteer-Orange and pictures of Peyton and Reggie, guests entering Tennesseasonings will immediately be struck by the lack of a ‘smoked’ smell and the sounds of Sports Television, a sleepy-eyed team of four tucked behind the counter on a recent Saturday visit that found the space devoid of guests around 12:30 in the afternoon.
Thus far receiving mixed reviews that seem to be based on misperceptions of intent, comments about not being “Tennessee BBQ” clearly referencing Memphis and thus unaware that the East’s dry-rubbed style is as different from that as St. Louis is from Kansas City, it was as a group of two that the counter was approached with a big smile offered from a young man happy to make recommendations, he and his colleagues previously entertained by their cell phones and a re-run of Dunk Kings.
Bridging the style of Jack’s in Music City with North Carolina ‘cue, though the obvious lack of smokers at Tennesseasonings leads one to believe that the meat is prepared in an electric oven next to wood chips as opposed to directly over them, it was after a bit of decision making that two “Plate 2.3” combos were ordered along with Desserts and a Drink, the total cost coming out to just over $53 before tip and a nearly fifteen minute wait to follow as Food was prepared.
Offering a fairly diverse menu, the rotating specials including Turkey, Bologna and four styles of Sausage while the “Everyday Meat Choices” include traditional smokehouse fare plus several sides, it was after being approached twice more by servers to inquire about Wing Sauce and whether the order was to-go or for dine-in that several Styrofoam containers were presented, the sweet BBQ Sauce and seasoned Vinegar not particularly memorable, yet necessary as both the Ribs and Pork are served naked save for a bit of Salt, Pepper and Chili Powder.
Taking a look first at sides, the Macaroni and Cheese no better than straight-from-the-box Kraft with a touch less salinity while the tri-color Pasta Salad is virtually flavorless, those looking for something better are encouraged to try either the BBQ Beans mixed with Ground Beef or the tender Collard Greens teaming with Pork in a generous ladle of Pot Liquor.
Not particularly impressed by two complimentary Cornbread Muffins, the texture a bit too crumbly and sweetness for lack, it was by way of Pulled Pork that Meats were first tasted, an ample amount of crispy Skin mixed in with the flesh creating a pleasant texture that only required a bit of Sauce, the Ribs an entirely different story as they were plenty juicy but without any evidence of a Smoke ring and thus totally reliant on the Sauce for flavor beyond the basic seasoning.
Offering two links of Sausage to an order, the “Peg Leg Chicken” nothing more than smoked Wings and Drumettes slathered in a choice of Sauces, it was with hopes of a good spice profile that a Hot Link and Chicken Chorizo Sausage were selected, both of them clearly store bought and merely finished in house despite being flavorful enough while the ‘homemade’ Desserts were a hit and miss way to finish, the Hulk-Green Key Lime Pie buoyed by a buttery Graham Cracker Crust that played well off sour Filling that would have been better off with less Whipped Cream while the Banana Pudding was completely devoid of any whole Fruit with just a single Shortbread Cookie adding texture to a mix that was almost certainly straight out the box.
TWO AND A HALF STARS: Offering “good for what it is” as a sort of backhanded compliment, East Tennessee BBQ not especially well known outside the region for a reason, Tennesseasonings finds itself in a tough spot for trying to do something different in a city notoriously bad for Barbeque, the results largely marred by the lack of a smoker and reliance on what seems to be a lot of low-effort non-Meat items.
RECOMMENDED: Pulled Pork, Collard Greens, Hot Link, Chicken Chorizo Sausage.
AVOID: Banana Pudding, Macaroni and Cheese, Tri-Color Pasta.
TIP: Open from Noon till 8:00pm Wednesday through Saturday and until Seven o’clock on Sundays. $25 off $50 on Restaurant.com
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Country Bread, Olive Focaccia and Wheat Crisps with Olive Oil
Chilled Cantaloupe and Watermelon Soup with Thai Chili
Roasted Panisse
Marinated Seabass with Red Onion, Pomello and Pimento Pepper
Octopus Salad with Garbonzo Beans, Green Onion, Confit Sweet Bell Pepper, Emulsified Hummus
Provencal Caponata with Eggplant, Tomato, Olive and Pine Nuts
Lobster Risotto in Shellfish Cream
Bombardoni Pasta with Braised Short Rib, Red Wine Reduction
John Dory with Calamari, Prawn, Clams and Bouillabaisse Broth
Pacific Wild Halibut with Zucchini, Green and White Asparagus
Ratatouille Cookpot with Peppers, Zucchini, Summer Squash and Garlic
Angus Beef Rossini with Foie Gras and Black Truffle Sauce
Sweet Corn Our Way with Cream, Zucchini and Red Peppers
Double Americano
Peach Melba with Peach Ice Cream, Red Currant Compote, Lime and Verbena Jelly
Citrus Cup with Orange Marmalade, Candied Lemon, Campari Granite
Limoncello Baba with Chantilly Cream
Flourless Chocolate Souffle with Vanilla Ice Cream
Opened in October 2015 as a rebrand of culinary giant Alain Ducasse’s miX, a meal early in its inception showing the food to be half-hearted and undersized while servers exuberantly looked for the upsell, it was with recent positive words from a trusted source that a reservation for two was booked on Friday night, Chef Bruno Riou having now dialed in the Mediterranean flavors while the room remains one of the very best ways to take in the Las Vegas sunset.
Located high above The Delano, the Skyfall Lounge next door as popular as ever with tourists even though searing hot temperatures kept the patio closed until several hours after dark, it was by way of the externally facing glass elevator guests entered the space only to have to pass by the kitchen and chandelier of bubbles en route to the hostess stand, a reservation confirmed and seats at one of the tables looking straight out onto the city a comfortable place to spend nearly three hours in repast.
Busy for Bastille Day, though the style of French served at Rivea is hardly the braised Meats and rich Sauces typically thought by most as typifying the country’s cuisine, it was shortly after sitting down that a glass of Champagne was presented along with the restaurant’s Grissini and Olive-Anchovy Tapenade, a trio of Breads served with Olive Oil not far behind alongside a nightly amuse of Watermelon Gazpacho poured tableside over chilled Cantaloupe with a subtle bit of heat.
Remaining one of Las Vegas’ most breezy dining rooms, the seaside blues and high ceilings further opening up a contiguous space that sees the Valley spread in all directions through glass, Rivea’s current “Tour de la Riviera” tasting soon continued by way of a trio of plates including Seabass Crudo with Citrus and Pimento Pepper alongside chunky Eggplant Caponata and Chickpea Fries plus an added plate of tender Octopus served with crispy Garbanzo Beans and aerated Hummus, the flavors all bright and fresh though the Panisse would have benefitted from a dipping Sauce or something to help give it an identity outside of the Salt atop its crunchy coating.
Moving next into a Pasta duo, each served family-style with the Risotto perfectly cooked in Shellfish Stock and a small bit of Butter-poached Lobster at its center, Chef Riou showed a skilled hand by way of the al dente tubes served in Sauce Bordelaise, the Short Rib fork-tender with a great depth of flavor and roasted Tomatoes adding just enough acid to keep the beautifully executed sauce from being too rich at such an early point in the evening.
Serving relatively small portions of each plate as part of the tasting, slightly larger presentations available a la carte as noted at surrounding tables, course three of the tasting was titled “Fish” and although those averse to flavors of the sea may wish to think twice about John Dory served a la briny Bouillabaisse the dish is true to its description with a jumbo Prawn served amidst Calamari and Clams plus buttered Toast while the Wild Halibut sings of Summer with a lightly saline Foam, two types of Asparagus and slices of Zucchini.
Requesting one of Ducasse’s signature Cookpots as well as a side of Creamed Corn with Peppers be added, the former served in the style of Ratatouille along with the Fish while the latter came as a side to a medium-rare Filet of Prime Beef with Foie Gras and Australian Black Truffle Sauce, those expecting a French Classic on Bastille Day would not be let down by Angus so tender that it could have been cut with a butter knife, the Duck Liver caramelized on the surface and creamy within while the Mashed Potatoes and gently warmed Endive were just enough to refresh the palate between bites.
Taking Coffee along with Dessert, two seasonal additions presented along with a pair of classics, suffice it to say that the Citrus Cup rang true to its name with mouth-puckering combination of Rind and Marmalade that ate somewhat like a Pudding, the flavors too intense for one at the table while the Peach Melba offered a more mild flavor, Chef Ducasse’s famous Baba just as wonderful with Italy’s famous Lemon Liqueur as it is with Rum while the Chocolate Souffle proves worth the 18-minute preparation time thanks to a good rise and soft center that becomes a warm Pudding with the addition of Vanilla Ice Cream.
FOUR STARS: Without a doubt the lightest flavors of Sin City’s four French Masters, the price-point on par with Twist and quite a bit lower than Savoy or Robuchon, Rivea seems to have found its stride as year three approaches, the food matching the room and Chef Riou executing every plate expertly while the staff manages a balance of personality and professionalism that many guests who fear French Restaurants as ‘snooty’ will be comfortable with.
AVOID: Panisse Frites are fine but need a bit more to justify the pricepoint, Citrus Cup needs something like whipped cream that can be added on a per-bite bases to help offset the bitterness.
TIP: Offering Dinner from 6pm daily Rivea is best accessed by way of Elevators of the Delano Lobby, though those wishing to partake in the view from Skyfall are encouraged to take the elevator located just outside Michael Jackson ONE by Cirque du Soleil.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
A rare non-Nordic success story in the post-Manifesto era, Chef and owner Matt Orlando an American who began his cooking career in Southern California, Amass was booked as the final dinner during an eight day stay in Denmark, the restaurant’s out of the way location in Northern Christianshavn yet another quirk that helps it to stand out, though not always in ‘good’ way.
Originally opened in summer 2013, Orlando fresh off stints at world-class restaurants including The Fat Duck, Per Se and noma, the later a nearly three-year CDC position during which he developed a passion for Copenhagen and its terroir, diners visiting Refshalevej 153 can almost universally expect to pass right by before retracing steps in an area filled with warehouses, the small sign pointing up a flight of stairs that are descended once inside to a room that is both tall and wide.
Far from an intimate setting, the budget tables, concrete pillars and pop-art murals all creating an atmosphere far more ‘American hipster’ than what is found at Stud!o, kadeau, Relæ or other Michelin-starred spaces in town, it was after checking in with a hostess who would later be seen serving wine and helping clear tables that a party of one was led to a seat adjacent the kitchen, the line of sight partially obstructed by a pony-wall and shouts of “YES CHEF” booming at an unnecessary volume at least seventy times throughout the course of a nearly three and a half hour meal.
Following the same pattern as many ‘New Nordic’ restaurants in offering only a Chef’s Tasting, the Menu 695DKK and an extended version adding another three courses for 200 Krone more, it was with a glass of cold Bergamot and toasted Barley in hand that the meal got started, three types of vegetables baked into crisps whetting the palate prior to a deep vessel oddly reminiscent of a dish from Manfreds that afternoon featuring a sous-vide Egg Yolk and Sunflower Seeds in an herbal Pudding.
Celebrated by many for simplicity similar to what Puglisi suggests at his flagship, Chef Orlando even going so far as to have a biodynamic garden on-site from which many Organic Herbs and Vegetables are sourced, the next item offered was Amass’ famous Bread imbued with Potato Skins, the grilled round served hot and moist alongside a spread made of Kale and Almonds actually quite delicious despite its heft and a nice lead in to the night’s first proper ‘course’ of fresh-caught Mackerel topped in diced Green Strawberries alongside a slick of Rapeseed Oil.
Having seen a fair number of “New Potatoes” by the 47th dining destination of the trip, Orlando’s version fairly underwhelming atop pureed Hemp Seeds and the flavor of Celery, course three featured dry-aged Beef hidden beneath Flowers amidst the brine and sweetness of Sea Snails and Black Chestnuts with Turnip Chips, the depth of flavor compelling enough to warrant eating a fairly large portion before the menu once again took a step back with sweet Garden Peas compromised by the bitter and dirty flavors of Calendula and Sunchoke.
At this point subjected to a lengthy delay, the room no more or less busy than prior but nearly forty-five minutes separating a two-part main course from those before it, suffice it to say that Orlando’s Chicken Thigh in Brown Butter did little more to wow than a store-bough Rotisserie Bird, the Salad also missing the boat by being too acidic and thus making another piece of Potato Bread necessary, though the wait for it was also quite protracted.
Now anticipating a series of holdups, an issue encountered several times in Copenhagen when the menu transitioned from savory to sweet, the source of the bottleneck was discovered as the open kitchen allowed one to watch Chefs normally charged with Produce move back and forth to the Pastry station, essentially a two man show that steals labor from one place to accomplish something known to be necessary, though the first of three Sweets was fairly light work with the fragrant Fennel Ice Cream Sandwich premade and only in need of its assertive Caramel drizzle.
Uncertain as to why such a large operation would not employ a proper Pastry Chef, the subsequent Sorbet of Beetroot with sour accoutrements delayed by nearly twenty minutes with another forty separating it from what was essentially a plate of deconstructed S’mores, it was mercifully just past to 22h00 that the check was requested with a nearly 10km bike ride back to the hotel yet to follow.
Cleverly describing itself as “(probably) the world’s only veggie-focused restaurant famous for its raw meat” Manfreds proved to be an irresistible stop after lunch at Relæ, the 12-course “Experience” menu that is far lighter than it sounds leaving plenty of room to sit down at the bar for three plates including the signature Beef Tartare.
A winner the Sustainable Restaurant Award in 2016, the same year its upscale sibling across the street earned the same and operating nearly 100% Organic from noon until 22h00 daily, Manfreds was opened nearly simultaneously with Relæ in 2010 as a casual concept focused on Food and Natural Wines, the menu offering anywhere from ten to twelve plates with all but the Beef and Sourdough prone to seasonal change.
A partnership between Kim Rossen and Christian F. Puglisi, the latter slowly growing in influence to a near-noma level ever since branching off on his own, it was with the usually-busy space currently between lunch and dinner rushes that a seat was taken at the unoccupied bar where a lone server was busy washing glasses and replenishing bottles, questions about daily specials quickly answered and housemade Apple Juice served instead of Wine, the roasted Fruit still cloudy and entirely unsweetened which made for a pleasant sourness to pair with all three dishes.
Offering copies of Puglisi’s “Book of Ideas” as well as “Where to Eat Pizza” to browse as guests wait, information about Relæ’s “Farm of Ideas” from which much of the previous meal’s Produce was obtained also provided by a pamphlet, it was not long after ordering that a dish described as “Poached Egg Yolk, Nettle, Cream, Sourdough” was presented, the small pot aggressively priced at 75DKK for what was no more than three bites of herbal Pudding with a bit of texture added by Bread Crumbs while the “Medium” Beef Tartare with similar condiments was deep, musty and complex in nearly quadruple the portion for just 30 Krone more.
Admittedly impressed by the Tartare, plenty of moisture present but not ‘wet’ like so many American versions thanks to the quality of the Beef, a thick grind and just enough Spinach to keep things from becoming too rich, it was without hesitation that a small pot of Chocolate Mousse was requested upon finishing one last slice of Mirabelle Sourdough, the short glass proving to be another worthy signature as the Dark Cocoa is well met by crumbled Milk Chocolate Cookies, a drizzle of Olive Oil and Sea Salt.
To sit and read Christian Puglisi’s “A Book of Ideas,” ostensibly a cookbook about Michelin-starred Relæ, is more than just a chance to gawk at recipes most amateur Chefs will never attempt, it is an opportunity to truly understand a man who takes everything from farming to the water used in his kitchen very seriously, though a look at the restaurant itself on Saturday afternoon showed the experience to actually be very joyful, a seat at the counter looking upon Chefs from nearby to Brazil all working in harmony as they prepared food that was conceptually simple but generally brilliant.
Opened in 2010 fresh off of years at El Bulli and noma, lessons learned working with René Redzepi helping the then-28 year old Italian Chef crystallize an idea for a restaurant that would further eschew the confines of fine dining in favor of a “cut to the bone” philosophy focused on nothing more than a comfortable environment and what was served on the plate, diners visiting Relæ in 2017 will find a neighborhood that Puglisi previously described as ‘riddled with drugs’ transformed into one thriving with artisan goods, restaurants and a young families, his restaurant very much a catalyst to this change and still filling tables day and night five days per week.
No doubt having grown past early expectations as the Chef has launched three additional restaurants nearby, Bæst arguably serving some of the best Pizza in the world thanks to a relentless pursuit of perfection that sees everything from Charcuterie to Cheese made in house with most of the Vegetables from his own organic garden, Relæ remains true to its word with diners seated at either long wooden tables or a Chef’s counter with silverware tucked into drawers and intended to last the whole meal without a need for change, all of the plates delivered straight from the hands of Chefs with the first course on this day’s 895DKK “Relæ Experience” Menu presenting Goat Cheese Mousse and sliced Green Strawberries atop a shell of Lemon, Basil and Buckwheat.
Opting for Still Water and a single pour of Juice to accompany the meal, a clear glass of pressed White Currants and Anise Hyssop Oils washing the palate with acid between bites, it was prior to a plate of blanched Celtuce with Soured Cream, Oregano and raw Almonds that the first of several slices of Mirabelle Bakery Sourdough was received, the structure and flavor amongst the best in a city full of good loaves and much appreciated as a way to ‘reset’ the mouth after a course of warmed Oysters in shaved Horseradish encased in paper-thin squares of bitter Turnips.
Embracing a ‘waste not, want not’ attitude, nearly all of the products served certified Organic and Stems, Peels and residual pieces all collected to be used for alternative purposes, course four saw the team serve a piece of Trout lightly warmed on an upper rack by residual heat from Japanese Charcoal used to cook a later course, the Spring Onions stacked beneath crispy skin adding a lot of flavor to a pool of Brown Butter with a follow-up of four different Tomatoes grown in Danish soil all defying the idea that such a thing cannot be done and part of a project that has been years in the making at Puglisi’s off-site farm.
Strongly focusing on early Summer’s bounty throughout a comfortable 110 minutes, a bowl of whole and halved Fava Beans served barely cooked alongside Gooseberries in an aromatic Broth followed by Garlic roasted Heirloom Carrots intended to be dragged through Hollandaise topped in grated Egg Yolk, courses eight and nine were tied to one another by way of locally bred Havervadgard Lamb, the first a deep and complex Tartare with Seaweed Emulsion and Sea Beans with the final savory delivered by way of sixty-day dry-aged Saddle that was fork-tender next to thin strips of Kohlrabi around shredded Sea Lettuce on a bed and Broth of Spinach.
Offering a Cheese made from the same unpasteurized Milk used at Bæst in transitioning from savory to sweet, the grassy flavors well paired to shredded Black Olives and Rhubarb inside a fold of Buckwheat, those leery of Desserts using Herbs will be happy to know that Relæ succeeds where others fail by staying the course, nothing over-manipulated with only flavor and texture the focus in both a creamy bowl of Milk Solids and sweetened Buttermilk dusted with Chervil and in a dainty Puff Pastry laid on edge and filled with Sage Cream, wild Strawberries and steeped and candied Mustard Seeds.
Having visited the location at Godthåbsvej 45 in Frederiksberg on day two in Copenhagen it seemed only right to return to Det Rene Brød for one more Cinnamon Roll before leaving Denmark, the store in Nørrebro unfortunately not as cozy as the first with Pastries and service that also lacked, the distracted young woman at the counter accidentally doubling up on the same Muffin when two different ones had been suggested and nothing save for the Pumpkin Seed-Carrot Rye and Cinnamon Roll on par with what the previous visit suggested.
Brought up during a conversation about allergies and intolerances while in Copenhagen, their population’s gluten-sensitive and pseudo-allergy voices far less loud than in America, Naturbageriet on Frederiksberggade near Nørreport Station is one of the capital’s rare bakeries catering to Vegans and those looking for a gluten free treat, the smallish space with some dry and refrigerated goods proving to be reasonably priced and quite popular on a Saturday morning just past 08h00.
Once again focusing on Organic Grains from nearby farms and Milk or Eggs, when applicable, likewise allocated, those visiting Naturbageriet will at first be somewhat confused by signage delineating what is versus what is not allergy sensitive and although Danish is used exclusively on labels the staff is English-fluent and happy to make suggestions, the eventual order entailing six choices from which half were designed for the store’s target audience.
Too small to offer seats, though at such an early hour several outdoor tables are unoccupied and unwatched nearby, it was with goods spread out that passers-by starred or commented on the sheer volume of food, most items larger than the average and first bites of the filled Danish showing well, the exterior flaky with a lot of butter within and the Strawberry Jam restrained from being too sweet by a generous amount of toasted Walnuts.
Intrigued by this version of the Poppyseed-studded Frosnapper, the Seeds folded into a soft and buttery braid with light sweetness that tasted much like Honey, it was largely in continuing to search for the city’s best Cinnamon Roll that the Gluten Free version was passed up in favor of a traditional one, the results very impressive and on par with that at St. Peder’s or Det Rene Brød.
Intrigued to see so many cakes offered, at least three more in addition to those sampled available, those looking for something hearty and rustic should throw caution to the wind and taste the Vegan Banana Cake that sees unleavened Rye and mashed Banana soaked in Cider and topped in sliced Apples with plenty and Cinnamon and Anise notes throughout while those avoiding Wheat will find equal pleasure in a lighter than average Carrot Cake made with Pineapple Juice, ground Coconut, Nuts and Carrots, the Almond Cake another great choice that tastes a lot like Caramel Cake found throughout the Southern United States but made with far better ingredients.
Bites – Onion, Comte and Breadcrumb ‘Egg’ / Oyster Foam with Ramson and Asparagus / Gougere with Mornay / Toast with King Crab and Bechamel / Roe Buck Tartare Tart / Quail Egg with Caviar
Mini Chocolate Donut, Salted Caramel, Chocolate Nougat
A remaining bastion of Classic French Cooking in Copenhagen Kong Hans Kælder has been greeting guests since 1976, and although reestablishing its Michelin Star in 2016 after a two year absence the Restaurant seems to be showing its age in the modern era, a Friday night dinner finding the cooking to be technically sound with a focus on luxury ingredients but fairly poor in terms of value or doing anything particularly remarkable or unique.
Famously located in Copenhagen’s oldest building, the previous home of Lords, a Mint and Hans Christian Andersen since converted to an arched dining area not unlike AOC and only modestly adorned aside from candles which add to the gothic ambiance but make the room a bit too stuffy thanks to a lack of airflow, diners at Kong Hans Kælder are greeted by way of a podium in the foyer where reservations and coats are collected before being led to tables lined in heavy linen, the menu presented as a Chef’s Tasting plus several a la carte choices.
Opened by Lene and Sven Grønlykke and now under the guidance of Chef Mark Lungaard Nielsen, a man who by all appearances seemed stern and unapproachable as he stood at the pass throughout the night rarely shifting more than a few inches, service at Kong Hans follows a similar pattern in that it is very formal without a lot of smiling but plenty of “Sirs and Ma’ams,” a decline to peruse the massive wine list probably not the expected approach considering the fact that the cellar contains over 3200 separate labels, though a dry ‘almost no Alcohol’ Cider proved perfectly paired to the vast majority of plates served throughout the three hour meal.
Still sporting wooden floors and echoing walls, the later occasionally putting others conversations far closer than wide-set tables should allow, it was with a flurry of six bites that the evening began shortly after opting for the Chef’s Tasting, a small plastic ‘egg’ containing Onion, Comte and Breadcrumbs a highlight as was a Crab Toast and Roe Buck Tartare Tart, the seasonal item once again showing up and proudly promoted as being shot only a few miles outside city limits.
Not at all a ‘snobby’ place, just one where formality fits the ambiance and waiters play their role throughout several tableside presentations, it was with nibbles finished that two styles of Bread were delivered alongside butter from Bordier, the New Nordic Kitchen Manifesto clearly not dominating the conversation as sliced Langoustine arrived next beneath foamy Sauce Neige and sheets of Pasta, the tiny Tarragon leaves perfuming the palate before dissipating into a background that was a little too sweet on the finish.
Traditionally serving the tasting menu for two, but happy to offer solo diners a seat, service continued with a “double portion” of Turbot roasted on the Bone and cleaned tableside, the meat tender and perfectly cooked, though it unfortunately lost a little bit of its ‘oomph’ when served next to a assertive Crayfish stuffed Squash Blossom blanked in a sauce similar to the first but slightly more briny thanks to the addition of Lobster Coral.
Clearly proud of their sauces, both prior and both to follow served tableside in elegant French fashion, plate three presented housemade Brioche topped in thinly sliced layers of seared Goose Liver with Golden Chanterelles and a smooth reduction of Pan Drippings plus White Wine, the flavors and textures both expectedly luxurious and left to linger for nearly fifty minutes until savories concluded with roasted Roe Buck Loin served ruby Red next to a ‘Waldorf Salad’ made to taste earthy by way of Celeriac, though admittedly presenting a nice balance to the tart Gastrique.
Unable to resist a proper Cheese Cart, the supplemental cost 150DKK, Kong Hans Kælder once again takes a pass on Denmark in presenting nothing but French selections, several unpasteurized choices not available stateside interesting with a ripe Blue and mature Goat’s Milk versions found most memorable alongside several condiments, the night’s lone Dessert quick to follow with an amusing display unfolding as the sever could not dislodge a quenelle of Strawberry Sorbet from his spoon, the composition itself also fairly disappointing as similar can be found at any average restaurant throughout the world with the same to be said of three mignardises including an oddly placed miniature Chocolate Donut.
