Originally opened in the 1950s by Juan Bacells Xurreria Trebol is said by many to sell Barcelona’s best Churro, and although he and his wife have long since retired with their son and grandchild left to operate the storefront it appears little has changed in terms of Trebol’s popularity, the walk-up counter currently doing so much business with the late-night crowd that it is even open consistently from Friday at 09h30 until the wee hours of Sunday morning.
Situated at Carrer de Còrsega 341, a quaint street sandwiched between the picturesque Gracia neighborhood and an area heavy with tourists taking in Guadi’s Sagrada Familia, it is with limited nearby parking that guests approach Trebol by foot and although the façade may not look like much it is truly what’s on the inside that counts, several warming trays and store shelves lined with fried treats ranging from hand-cut Potato Chips and Hotdogs wrapped in Pastry to at least a half-dozen styles of Churros plus Donuts, Empanadas and Cookies.
Friendly and efficient in service, a bilingual young man behind the counter explaining the choices while casually chatting with a Police Officer, it was without much hesitation that the decision was made to invest in a total of five choices tallying less than €10, an unphotographed bag of Chips said to be very crispy and well-salted by the person who ate them while two golden orbs described as Baccala Fritters were unfortunately a bit too much dough and not enough Cod.
Opting for filled Churros instead of the traditional thin ones, none of them made to order and thus questionable as to when exactly they were prepared, it was after getting back to the car that first bites were taken of a thick-cylinder filled with Vanilla Cream, the exterior golden and crunchy with a whole lot of Granulated Sugar while the inside was unfortunately a bit soft thanks to the Cream’s thin consistency.
Moving on to two additional Churros, both the Dulce de Leche and Chocolate Cream thicker than the Vanilla and thus maintained in the Churro’s cavity without soaking in, suffice it to say that Trebol’s Dough fairs similar to most in terms of both texture and oil content, though one would imagine the product is better when hot and fresh from the fryer.
Chocolate Caramel Bar, Apple Streusel Cake, Raspberry Coconut Cake
Serrano, Comte and Basil Croissant
Warm Ginger-Banana-Hazelnut Bread with Whipped Espresso Butter
Located within walking distance of ARTiSA, its address at Passatge de la Pau 11 in Barri Gòtic making the restaurant quite popular with international visitors, it was in continuation of Breakfast that two guests sat down at Federal Café just past 10h00 on Saturday, the menu offering everything from Avocado Toast to Pancakes easily the most “American” found in Barcelona, the fact that Federal Café is part of a chain with locations in several Spanish cities only found out later, but really not surprising.
Intended to reminisce of a city in Australia where “there’s not much to do but dream, and watch the rain fall on quiet streets and the phonebox,” an odd description for the open floor-planned space with modern design and a soundtrack playing Silversun Pickups at a volume that can be heard outside, it was after perusing the Pastry Case that the decision was made to take a seat and although the place fairly busy for the weekend service was mostly efficient, Coffee and Pastries delivered in less than ten minutes with hot items from the kitchen ready in about twenty.
Celebrated by fans for the exact reason that diners seeking authenticity may wish to forgo a visit, the menu not remotely ‘Spanish,’ it was with high hopes of seeing how an Australian ‘idea’ planted in Europe would execute foods from back home that first bites were taken of the Jammy Coconut Cake that tasted wholly natural and thus mild but elegant while the Apple Strudel unfortunately went a bit too heavy on the buttery Crumbs and thus came across one-dimensional and heavy, though not in a good way like the Chocolate Caramel Bar which was essentially a wedge of soft Toffee topped in a thin layer of Ganache.
Breaking up the sweets with one savory, “Neck of the Woods” still playing loudly overhead from beginning to end, it was with a far better base than at ARTiSA that Federal Café built it’s Breakfast Sandwich with a thin layer of Serrano, lightly melted Comte and a Basil Leaf, the Croissant maintaining its crunchy exterior atop soft layers while the griddled Banana Bread was moist and delicious with plenty of spice notes and lightly sweetened Espresso Butter.
Having now checked off several Pastry shops throughout the city and with a long drive back to Valencia following lunch it was after securing street parking near Las Ramblas that a party of two entered ARTiSA just past 08h30 on Saturday, a table fortunately opening up just as an order was placed and the tab was paid with a number provided and table-service soon to follow.
Considered by some to be one of Barcelona’s more tourist-friendly Brunches, the menu spanning several Spanish classics as well as American mainstays like Eggs, Sandwiches and simple Salads, ARTiSA originally opened in 2009 and quickly made a name for itself thanks to fast service and an accessible location, the in-house Bakery no doubt a focus and turning out more than thirty styles of Cookies, Cakes and Pastries daily.
Charging a bit more than other places due to their exclusive use of Organic Milk, Eggs, Produce and Flour, a non-GMO sign prominently posted next to the small Market inside for those who value such things, it was with all items delivered on a plastic tray that Breakfast began with two Sandwiches, the Ham and Brie Croissant one of many border-crossing dishes that fell flat largely because the Pastry itself had been rendered flaccid by re-heating while the crisp Baguette topped with Jamon Iberico faired far better thanks to both the quality of the Bread and the cured Meat.
Passing on Coffee from Illy while another enjoyed her hefty Mocha Frappe topped with a spiral of canned Whipped Cream it was with Sandwiches finished that Breakfast continued on to three baked goods plus a bag of lightly cooked Churros served with thin sipping Chocolate, the Raspberry Croissant not much better than its savory counterpart but thankfully quick to be forgotten in the wake of a delicious square of poached Apples, Butter and Cinnamon as well as the warmed-on-request eggy Bread Pudding with Raisins and boozy Caramel Syrup.
Toqued by Antonio Romero, a graduate of the School of Hospitality Costa Azahar with subsequent stage at elBulli as well as Akelarre and Maison Pic it is surprising to many that Suculent has managed to fly underneath the Michelin radar for so long, but if dinner on the last night in Barcelona is any indication this may actually be a good thing for diners as the €75 Menu SucuXLent proved to be an unequivocal bargain for a party of two seated at the counter where they were treated to sixteen courses of innovative market-fresh cuisine paired to excellent service.
Well regarded by his peers and several well-traveled gourmands for creating a simple and honest Restaurant not far from Las Ramblas, several tourists mistakenly stopping in during service expecting another Tapas Bar kindly directed next door to Romero’s more casual La Taverna, those making reservations at Suculent are welcomed by a staff of three servers including one bilingual bartender and with the menu divided into four individual tastings tailored to the guests’ liking the decision is simply one of appetite.
Long and narrow with less than two-dozen seats, the walls of the former Cellar dark green and wood with little adornment, it is shortly after sitting down that guests are presented with a bowl of Olives alongside a stiff Cocktail of Vermouth and Fruit, the choice of a menu quickly seeing the first of several appetizers offered in the form of “Our Waldorf” featuring a crisp stalk of Celery topped with sliced Apples, Blue Cheese and Grapes.
Choosing to sip Cava along with dinner, the Chef’s description of his Food as “Produce based and focused on the pure flavor of each product” making anything dry particularly well suited to more than half of the night’s plates, it was after a brief delay during which housemade Sourdough was served that two plump Oysters draped in Pork Jowl and blanketed with Pistachio Cream were presented, the flavor fresh with tempered minerality and a smooth finish while the Croquetta was gold and crispy around a center of Cheese, Lobster and Cuttlefish.
Stepping back and forth between Spanish and Mediterranean flavors, modern technique frequently used to intensify Sauces or Stocks, it was with a refreshing Ceviche of Market Tomatoes in cryoconcentrated Water Lilly Tea that the first of four ‘Starters’ was served next, the ingredient quality readily evident just as it was in the following Salad of Beets in spicy Mandarin Broth.
Growing heavier with subsequent plates, but quick to scale back with a lighter dish after particularly intense flavors in the manner of his teachers, it was here at the third intermediate plate that Chef Romero sent out his famous whole Lobster made into Tartare and served with Chicken Skins, everything about this dish comforting yet elegant with each bite a little smaller in hopes of making it last.
Next focusing diners’ attention on Garlic, first as a fragrant Soup with Apples and Trout Roe and then with a whole Clove intended to be squeezed and smeared on flaky Vegetable Flatbread, it was after these two plates that eight squares of Tuna Belly were served between dehydrated Cherry Tomatoes with Smoked Cream, the latter not particularly necessary given the quality of the Fish but nice for adding a little dimension just the same.
Playing off the idea of Mexican Street Corn next, the apparent “char” actually a smear of Black Olive that was messy but worthwhile in adding salinity to the otherwise sweet Kernels, it was once again here that Suculent chose to show off their sourcing with several styles of foraged Mushrooms cooked tender atop Black Pepper and Cheese with grated Parmesan, the beautiful Zucchini Blossom “Samosa” to follow far lighter than one might expect for something stuffed with Lamb Sausage.
Rounding out the savories with a “Steak” of Cabbage served next to thinly sliced Fries slicked in spicy Egg Yolk, the slab of Herb Butter adding a both flavor and succulence to the tender Crucifer, it was after wiping up all the residual sauce with another slice of Bread that Dessert commenced, plates one and two focusing on the simple sweetness of Figs and Strawberries next to textural condiments while the Cheesecake was intended to be eaten by hand with the flavor of Wine and Maria Cookies making for a elegant, lingering finale.
Potato Millefeuille, White Coffee Ice Cream and Vanilla
Strawberry, Miso and Yuzu
The Pearl / The Watermelon
Double Espresso
Dried Peach / Panloton
Mato Yogurt / Popcorn Bon Bon
Dragon Egg
To say the food world got a little bit excited when Albert Adria finally opened Enigma Concept earlier this year would be an understatement, he and brother Ferran’s most ambitious project since El Bulli long shrouded in secrets and made all the more mysterious by an early no-photos policy and a reservation system that seemed fairly arbitrary…at least until two seats at 14h15 on a Saturday appeared while randomly browsing the website at lunch some 13 weeks prior.
Divided into a series of five “Enigmas” and accessible only via gate-code provided via E-mail after booking, the sprawling space built from the ground up as a crystalline catacomb with opaque resin dividing one room from next, it was minutes after the assigned time that entry was granted after passing by the largely unmarked entrance more than once on foot in the rain, the meal’s other guest found waiting in a sort of foyer with staff quick to escort both patrons to the second Enigma after a wet umbrella and jacket were checked, plus a few welcoming snacks.
Seating just 24-diners at a time, the majority spaced from other tables by at least four-meters in the primary Enigma while others are intermittently escorted to two additional chambers featuring a standing Cocktail Bar called La Barra and a sit-down grill and flattop station dubbed La Plantxa, it was after settling into comfortable custom-made chairs that beverage selections were confirmed and with one opting for pairings while the other stuck with water the meal resumed, a crisp Shiso Leaf topped in frozen and fresh Grapefruit cells continuing a theme started in the lounge with the concentrated flavors of Fruit, Herbs and Flowers.
Tallying 49 individual plates or glasses over the course of four hours, many less than a mouthful but all of it adding up to quite a bit of Food and Beverage served in an “eat first, discover the ingredients later” manner, it was quickly after the Leaf that an icy Wafer of Coconut was presented prior to sliced Kumquat dried between sheets of Kombu, La Barra now ready for more guests and beginning with a single drop of Vermouth concentrated 1/1000 intended to be licked off the hand and followed by three drink and bite pairings including a boozy Pink Slush made with Sake that worked particularly well with the accompanying Parmesan Sphere.
Passing through the kitchen en route back to the table, a team of at least twelve working the multi-stationed area where most of the meal is prepared, it was again shortly after seating that a bowl of “Frozen Caviar” not unlike Dippin’ Dots arrived, the Cube from Tickets next served as a sheet of Nori topped in Golden Fish Eggs with the palate soon brought back to neutral by un-roasted Pistachios and a slightly bitter cloud of Avocado and Daffodils served next to a cold Soup perfumed with herbal Oils.
Again playing off a Tickets dish with Summer “Stew,” the peeled late-season Tomatoes here given a lot more intensity by way of Mushroom Powder and vibrant Gazpacho that tasted like Fresh Peas and Basil, it was again that the flow was changed as guests were invited to La Plantxa, an area said to be a highlight for many immediately proving to be just that with the presentation of a Buckwheat Sponge piped with smoked Cream and topped by nearly two-dozen Salmon Eggs.
Watching each dish created from beginning to end at the Grill, a nearly thirty-minute experience featuring mostly Shellfish including a particularly stunning sustainable young Abalone in Sherry and the Animal’s Liquor, it was with Cheese cooked on the griddle and wrapped around Brioche that guests were returned once again to Enigma #2, the soup of Brazilian Roots and Nuts with tender Pumpkin Dumplings unlike anything tasted prior with up-front sweetness and a funky Cheese-like finish that was unexpected as opposed to unpleasant.
Serving several dishes on wire mesh similar to the luminescent ceiling, though most are offered on crisp white China to focus both diners and cameras on the eye-popping colors and textures, item 28 was served in a monochromatic fashion with tender Razor Clams beneath white Cream, Olive and Orange Peel, the follow-up titled “Lemon and Seaweed” featuring both flavors prominently with a Wood Ant also contributing its formic acid and a bit of texture.
Working in arcs of flavor, the frequent shifts from savory to sweet and salty to sour likely familiar to those who had the opportunity to visit El Bulli or fans of Grant Achatz’s work at Alinea, it was picking up on the residual Umami of the Seaweed that a Foam and Cream construct of Anchovies and Earl Grey Tea surprisingly worked, the deep-fried Sea Anemone to follow every bit as gooey and briny as those prior but a good lead in to a three-part Pigeon presentation starting with the Breast and progressing to an Offal Meatball in aromatic Sauce before finishing with a small morsel of crispy Skin.
Continuously impressing with Sauces, the Black Currant, Peach and Pan Jus served atop Pigeon Breast encouraged to be sopped up with a slice of Housemade Sourdough, it was beneath a velvety veil of Fermented Beans that Eel and Eggplant were served before cleansing the palate with a semi-solid Radish, the bitterness mellowed by Wasabi and a touch of salt but still a nice bridge to the savory Walnut Sauce served with creamy Rabbit Brain.
Failing slightly in the transition to sweets, those ordering the pairing expectedly given a new Wine but those not doing so left to make the jump from Offal to Chocolate all on their own, it was avoiding the Passion Fruit Gel that Dessert one tasted largely like Nutella before moving onto a more logical palate cleanser of Icy Columbian Fruit followed by Cherries in Black Sesame Meringue, a curvy Potato Mille-feuille finishing things strongly before guests were invited next door to finish in the transported 41° Cocktail Lounge Enigma.
At this point just-over 210-minutes in, the transition from elegant dining room to a dimly-lit Bar at almost 18h00 somewhat disjointed but apparently enjoyable to many as more than half of the afternoon’s diners sat around chatting and enjoying addition Cocktails, it was with yet another pastry Chef creating dishes in an open work-area that eight more bites were offered, the Peach Marshmallow, Popcorn Truffle and Panko-fried Nougat “Dragon Egg” all quite good but at the same time also perhaps better incorporated into the actual dining-room experience.
No doubt a future Michelin Star and “World’s Best” list member, the ambition already admirable and execution only likely to improve with time, Albert Adria has suggested in the past that Enigma would “reinvent the way we go to restaurants” and although it is still too early to know whether he will be successful in that quest there is no doubt that the Restaurant is already a reservation worth the effort.
Focused on the baked goods of monasteries and convents across the Northeastern part of Spain, Caelum proved a most interesting diversion on the last full day in Barcelona, a visit to the corner Café during heavy rainfall providing not only temporary relief from the weather but five sweet treats that proved very enjoyable later.
Set up as part-Market and part dine-in area, the former filled with both Wines and Candies bearing the names of their makers while the later offers a number of baked goods lined up as a glorious display in the window, it was with time somewhat limited that the decision was made to select a handful of Pastries that were boxed and paid for, a lunch-reservation in waiting unfortunately preventing a visit to the medieval Jewish Bath below that has since been turned into additional space for diners to gather.
Saving the vast majority of items for later, only a Crema Catalana Tart eaten straight away for fear that the Chinese Egg-Custard style item would soak through its Chocolate-lined Pastry Shell in the intervening hours, suffice it to say that neither the Chinese nor Taiwanese have anything on the Nuns responsible for this dish, a crackling bruleed layer quickly yielding sweet Cream with the shell very flaky and chock-full of Butter.
Enjoying the rest of the Pastries later that day, the complimentary Chocolate Biscuit little more than a dipped Shortbread, it was with utensils grabbed elsewhere that a Cake of Vanilla, Meringue and Almonds was carefully cut as Confectioner’s Sugar launched skyward, the sweetness coming quick but dissipating fast and leaving behind a nutty linger.
Warned that the Apple Rum Cake was “full with Alcohol,” a fair warning for an item that ate much like a Baba au Rhum with a thin layer of Fruit Jelly on top, it was finally in a messy Honey-Almond Torrone that the tasting finished, everything about this item save for its visual presentation absolutely perfect as it married the flavor of Baklava to soft, sticky Nougat.
Like many of Barcelona’s historic eateries La Pallaresa is tucked away in the Gothic Quarter, and although the space originally opened as a Dairy it has undergone many changes since 1947 to become the destination it is today, everything about the snack shop opening at 9am Monday through Saturday proving better than the rest of the city’s “Granjas” in terms of food, service and setting.
Located on Calle Petritxol, an interesting little side street accessible by only foot or bike, it was shortly after the small Restaurant opened its doors on Friday that two out-of-town guests entered in search of a few more sweets before making their way to Montserrat, the bartender and two servers each offering a welcome (in direct contrast to Granja Dulcinea the day prior) and immediately providing a menu printed in English before returning less than five minutes later to answer questions and jot down the order.
Offering some sixty items from a list containing both Food and Beverage, everything from Hot Chocolate or Coffee to Ham Sandwiches and housemade Pastries included, it was with little indecision that an order of Hot Churros and Chocolate were requested in addition to the morning’s second Crema Catalana and an Ensaimada Farcida that was warm and sliced into strips with a texture far lighter than any seen previously in Barcelona.
Not yet sporting a queue, something apparently not uncommon closer to lunch and the later evening, it was perhaps after ten minutes wait while nibbling on the flaky Pastry that the three made-to-order items were delivered, the Crema Catalana unfortunately only torched at its center and thus lacking a bit in texture while the Churros were clean in flavor and crisp without any residual oil, light and tasty on their own but all the better when dipped into Chocolate so thick that it could have stood the Donuts up straight despite remaining just fluid enough to be sipped.
Foie Gras and Sauteed Wild Mushrooms with a Fried Egg
Carrot Cake with Cajeta
Crema Catalana
Tucked inside Mercado de La Boqueria, a popular locals spot early that later sports hour-plus lines thanks to a tourist-friendly location at Rambles 91, it was just past 07h30 that a couple of visitors stopped into El Quim de la Boqueria en route to Montserrat, two open seats at the corner ready and waiting with full view of the kitchen as well as overhead monitors giving guests a clear vantage of each work-station.
Originally opened in 1987, owner Quim Márquez originally planning a fairly modest operation with just five stools focusing on all-day Breakfasts and Tapas harnessing products sold at the market, intervening years and good fortune plus hard work have since converted El Quim de la Boqueria into nothing short of a Barcelona phenomenon, a move to aisle five in the late-80s followed by subsequent expansion in 2000 now seeing the space seat over twenty with a team of Chefs present each day of the week preparing Food that is fresh, honest and delicious.
Since joined in the kitchen by his son Yuri and several others, the more sizable stand complete with in-house dish-washing facilities and more movement than those who’ve never set foot inside a professional kitchen can even understand, it is almost immediately after seating that those lucky enough to grab a stool will be presented with a menu featuring check-off boxes by a Chef who will largely serve as that section’s Server and Cook, the decision of what to order a matter of deciding what sounds *best* as the vast majority of the menu at least sounds very good.
Truly an impressive place, each Chef working in his or her assigned area to prepare several cold dishes while a central stove is used to ready made-to-order Egg Dishes and fried items, it was with Coffee in hand plus Water that the bald man behind the counter quickly perused checkmarks before getting to work, thin slices of Bread quickly toasted on the griddle subsequently brushed with a Tomato and Olive Oil mixture and served next to cut and fried Potatoes topped with Mayonnaise and a smoky Red Pepper Sauce.
Sticking largely to traditional Tapas and specialties recommended by others, the famous Cuttlefish Eggs and Fish dishes alas not appealing so early in the morning, it was with a second order Pan con Tomate ordered and Patatas finished that round two arrived on fresh plates, the quartet of Croquettas crispy and golden atop creamy Cheese studded with Ham while the two Sandwiches both spoke to quality ingredients, the Ham stacked two layers thick and thus a very good bargain while the warm Sausage was snappy with plenty of herbs that played well off the Aioli.
Individually frying several Eggs in small skillets with Pork Fat, the curled edges light-brown with Yolk still runny and ready to slick any dish to which they were added, it was atop a tangle of Wild Mushrooms and about 100grams of seared Foie Gras that one of those Eggs came over the counter as the morning’s final savory plate, every aspect of the stack rich with umami and appropriately priced at €24.00 when accounting for both the portion and ingredient quality.
Going so far as to even make the Desserts on site, most prepared during off hours as El Quim is only open from 07h00 until 16h00 Monday through Thursday with slightly longer hours on Friday and Saturday, it was with a thick slice of Carrot Cake and room temperature Catalan Cream that the meal came to its conclusion, the former sweetened by Apple and smooth Cream Cheese frosting plus a pipette of Boozy Caramel while the later was torched prior to service giving it a crackling top above the milky, barely-set lower layer.
Cocoa Cookies / Fermented Plum Juice / Beet Meringue / Cocoa, Peanut Sponge
Opened by Albert Adria at the end of 2014, a Michelin Star soon to follow and continuously held through the 2017 Guide, Hoja Santa was built out of the Chef’s love of Mexico and the diversity of its cuisine, a trip to Oaxaca and the capitol shortly after the closing of El Bulli reconnecting him with Paco Méndez who helped open the space and remains Chef de Cuisine at both Hoja Santa and the more casual Niño Viejo today.
Booked several weeks in advance, the day after Tickets and one before Enigma Concept creating a back-to-back-to-back Adria trifecta closing out seven days in Barcelona, it was with one other that a bit of time was spent browsing nearby shops before making good on a reservation moments after doors unlocked at 18h30, a concert at Razzmatazz at 21h00 making the tasting menu a tight fit and thus necessitating an fifteen plate and three drink order served in a somewhat expedited fashion a la carte.
In many ways a ‘theme restaurant,’ Albert’s comments from several years prior about a “Gastronomic Disneyland” ringing true in Epcot-fashion as the lengthy Restaurant features everything from lizards in Luchador masks to bathrooms decorated in Loteria cards, it was with a seat directly in front of the Pass that guests were seated quickly on entry, a young man fluent in English understanding the time constraints and doing an excellent job to keep the pace moving throughout the night.
Playing traditional Mexican Music overhead as the restaurant quickly filled to near-capacity, guests of all ages and ethnicities seen with smiles on their faces as plates no larger than those at Tickets were presented with a high-degree of showmanship combined with complex layers of taste and texture, it was in a complimentary Red Pepper Buñuelo made with the same mold as a Dessert at Tickets that the meal got underway, the combination of Guacamole and thinly sliced Radishes helping to quell the heat just a small bowl of Hibiscus and Orange-infused Tequila did for a plate of spicy Pickled Vegetables quick to follow.
At this point served a first round of drinks, the made-to-order Agua Fresca of Raspberry with a twist of Lime and sprig of Rosemary well-composed and refreshing while the Montjai Margherita was a lighter take on tradition with the ‘salt air’ replacing a garnished rim, it was here again that a form from Tickets was replicated by way of Spongecake “Cornbread” topped in Chia and Espresso Pearls, the flavor reminiscent of sweet Mole while the follow-up was a fairly simple fried snack of Beans, Greens and Plantains.
Next offering up Lamb Cheek Barbacoa in a Corn crisp intended to represent a traditional Mexican service vessel, everything about the smoky and supple Meat on par with what can be found in Mexico, it was onward to a dish simply called “Ugly Tomato” that dinner marched on, the thin slices of an Heirloom varietal floating on a cloud of Pico de Gallo Foam and topped with frozen spheres of Raspberry truly brilliant in terms of taste, texture and temperature.
Invited next to “Eat an Egg,” the purpose of this dish difficult to understand as it simply presented separated Yolk and White converted into a pair or bland powders, it was with another Margarita in hand that two crispy Black Dumplings stuffed with Pulled Pork were presented, this another great dish thanks to the roasted Protein’s quality and all the better when enjoyed next to the Cocktail with up-front sweetness and a savory finish thanks to the inclusion of smoked Pork Fat and Jalapeno.
Riffing next on ‘noodles’ with thin strips of braised King Oyster Mushrooms in Egg Yolk and Spicy Chili Sauce, the texture very much like al dente Fettuccine but the woodsy flavor of Mushroom quite evident even amidst the heat, it was here that the first of two Tacos were presented with a generous slice of aged Beef Brisket and baby Vegetables on a housemade Corn Tortilla, the other served later from a tableside cart titled “Taco Trump” and featuring Suckling Pig with plenty of crackling Skin and Pickled Onions.
Continuing with tableside preparations, the €45.20 Squab and €33.90 Baby Lamb cooked in Clay both far more expensive when ordered a la carte than when averaged out as part of the tasting, suffice it to say that Chef Méndez and his team keep up the fine work with proteins for both courses with the former rich and funky atop Mole that would make Enrique Olvera proud while the later is meal in itself with enough Citrus-tinged Meat and Pickles to make approximately four Tacos.
Requesting an order of mixed Fruit Ceviche as a palate cleanser, bright acidity and a touch of Basil Oil helping to mellow the Melon while still allowing spheres of mixed Berries to come across sour and strong, it was with an igloo of Lychee-Ice covering sliced mango, Coriander and Passion Fruit that Dessert got started, most of this dish left for the other person at the table as the Maracuya predictably overwhelmed all but edges.
Happier with both the Smoked Corn Ice Cream with Caramel and Chocolate as well as the “Cacao Ecosystem” featuring the aromatics of Mole alongside Milk Chocolate Sorbet and a flavor not unlike Meade, it was with the €267.20 bill in hand that four more treats were presented, the tiny Cocoa Cookies and Fermented Plum Juice almost a continuation of the Ecosystem while both the Beet Meringue and Adria-signature microwave “Sponge” were light in mass but mighty in flavor.
Widely known to be a difficult reservation thanks to its call-in-only system and ownership speaking primarily Catalan it was through an online contact that lunch was booked at Can Valles Restaurant, a failure to ‘confirm 24-hours in advance’ almost leading to a refusal of service but management eventually conceding a four-top for two persons after claiming the couple was ‘lucky’ another party had cancelled earlier that morning.
Located at Carrer d’Aragó 95 and every bit as unassuming inside as the street on which it is located, a bar up front and to the left lined with several bottles of Booze plus hanging legs of Iberico Ham, it was at precisely 13h30 on Friday that the space was entered to find absolutely no patrons present nor a line in waiting, the aforementioned situation settled only after suggesting there were plenty of other good Restaurants in Barcelona at which lunch could be enjoyed, though the man tending bar still seemed to be against making an exception despite the fact that the restaurant would only reach 1/3-capacity during the course of a 90-minute meal.
Surrounded by flimsy ceiling tiles and grey walls decorated in bargain-basement Impressionist paintings, the neighboring area almost exclusively office space with ample street parking, it was with seats taken and Wine declined that daily specials were recited in addition to offerings from the bilingual menu, a three course meal for two ordered to a tally of €100 with a bowl of Olives and warm Bread soon to follow.
Known as a restaurant where tradition and quality ingredients are the focus, everything including the crusty Sourdough made on site, it was with the occasional entry of additional guests interrupting the two-man service that first courses were served after a twenty minute wait, the Three Cheese Risotto nicely cooked with tender Rice that still had some chew in a fairly sizable portion while two of the signature Cannellonis were blanketed beneath baked Cheese with plenty of fatty Pork Trotter and various Herbs rolled inside.
Still a little annoyed about the dogmatic greeting, at this point nearly fifty-minutes in and only eight other guests seated, it was with two trips to the kitchen that Entrees and included Sides were presented, the Iberian Suckling Pig offered as supple confit beneath crispy Skin around a dollop of warm Apricot Compote with a simple Green Salad while the €29.50 Bone-in fillet of mature Beef was an absolute bargain given both its quality and portion with guests encouraged to cook it to the desired temperature on a hot stone plate.
Amply salting the Steak but not Fries, a shame as the crispy Shoestrings were otherwise quite good, it was after listening to a the waiter describe Desserts that the decision was made to finish with Coffee alongside two selections, the ‘Chestnut Pudding’ a somewhat bitter €6.50 square barely bigger than a Petit Four and not particularly remarkable which made it a bit more acceptable that the server failed also deliver a requested slice of Apple Cake.
Established in 1992 by a Greek ex-patriot in Barcelona, Lukumas Holes & Coffee was the third Breakfast stop on Friday, a visit earlier in the week prevented by the Doughnuts Shop’s Cash-only policy but the wait perhaps fortuitous as the shelves were fully stocked on arrival with several of the glazed rings still warm to touch.
Located on Carrer del Torrent de l’Olla, essentially an ally with clotheslines hanging overhead and access limited to those traveling by foot or bike, it was just prior to 11h00 that a party of two entered the small space where an English-fluent couple was chatting and enjoying Coffee, the same server present as during the first visit immediately complimenting one guest’s T-Shirt featuring a Pig and thus kicking off a lengthy five-person conversation about the movie Okja on Netflix.
Small and homey in its design, a single glass case of Donuts on the counter in front of an Espresso Machine with a small plastic Pig and map of Greece the only real decorations aside from colorful seating for four, it was after weighing both the choices and remaining appetite that the decision was made to invest in three Doughnuts plus a Chocolate Frappe, the drink cool and creamy but unfortunately overwhelmed by unsweetned Whipped Cream which made the last several sips mostly undrinkable.
Moving on to the Donuts, Rings and Holes of several traditional flavors in addition to a few novelties offered next to Bagels, it was with two filled choices and one topped in sweetened Tahini and crushed Pistachios that the order was comprised, the bases all identical with an egginess reminiscent of Brioche while the toppings and fillings were all quite good, the Sugar and Raspberry Jam far lighter and more natural than many found Stateside while the Dulce De Leche pocket featured thick Caramel beneath Vanilla Glaze and Cinnamon Streusel.
White Chocolate Butter Cookie Sandwich with Chocolate Ganache
White Chocolate Pistachio Cookie
Crema Catalana Donut
White Chocolate Strawberry Cheesecake Krönut
Carrot Cake
Pistachio Cream Croissant
Subtitled “the Chocolate Kitchen” and located in Barcelona’s tourist-dense El Raval neighborhood it was as part of a three-stop breakfast that a visit was paid to Chök, the combination of glistening Donuts both in the window and hanging on racks behind the counter giving the narrow storefront plenty of curb-appeal while those wise enough to poke their head through the door will be further enticed by more sweet treats served by a staff that is friendly, passionate and bilingual.
Self-described as an experimental kitchen, both the location at Carrer del Carme 3 and its newly opened satellite featuring a fully visible prep-area with baking classes offered several days each month, guests making their first visit to Chök will undoubtedly be impressed by just how much the team has managed to fit inside a long but not wide space where over fifty types of Pastry are laid out to impress in addition to a sizable Coffee setup and seating for 6-8 at a table and small bar in the back.
Built for the ‘love of chocolate,’ varieties of Milk, Dark and White playing into almost every item offered atop low-displays stretching several meters from the door, it was after several minutes indecision and chat with a young male clerk that the decision was made to invest in a half-dozen choices out of at least twenty that were more appealing than the rest, each one individually plated and delivered to the bar where first bites of the “Chök-Pop” featuring two Butter Cookies wrapped around Dark Chocolate Ganache and dipped in White Chocolate were every bit as sweet as expected while the multi-layered textures were all distinctive, and as a whole pretty great.
Using good ingredients to justify prices higher than many, the total bill just under €24, it was progressing ‘light’ to heavy that bites were next taken of a Pistachio Butter Cookie half-dipped in White Chocolate, the crispy rim and soft center clearly the result of bakers attuned to their recipes and the flavor surprisingly quite natural, just as it was for the light green cream piped inside a flaky Croissant that somehow managed to maintain its structure despite being filled well past 50%.
Never one to pass up Carrot Cake, in Chök’s case a two-tiered muffin with Cream Cheese Frosting that was moist and spicy without the addition of Raisins or Walnuts, it was with this item easily the least impressive of the morning that tasting concluded in two Doughnuts, the “special recipe featuring less sugar, less fat and shorter frying time” yielding an Sponge Cake like base filled and topped with bruleed Custard while the Krönut did not separate as much as would be expected, though the flavor of White Chocolate Glaze, Cream Cheese and housemade Strawberry Compote was still quite delicious.
Located not far from the Cathedral, its 1941opening and continuous operation at Carrer de Petritxol 2 making Granja Dulcinea one of Barcelona’s most well-known purveyors of Chocolate and Churros for many years, it was for breakfast on Friday that two guests stopped in for a bite, the space entirely empty and the staff’s laissez-faire attitude fairly off-putting.
Originally founded by Juan Mach and Elvira Farràs, the business subsequently sold but owned by the current team for many years, it was just past 09h30 that the car was parked in a nearby garage and entering the Restaurant after a short walk the two men at the counter could barely be bothered to look up from the newspaper, “sit anywhere you like” spoke like a command rather than a suggestion and the English menu quickly navigated with three Pastries and two drinks requested.
Told that the Hot Chocolate was “still not ready,” something about the stove that the younger server could not translate holding things up, it was instead with a glass of Ice cold glass of Horchatta alongside an Americano that things got underway in just a few minutes, the décor dated yet comfortable and spread across two rooms of wood, tile and beams decorated with gargoyles.
Primarily a bakery with a fairly limited menu, both the Apple Cream Cake and Ensaimada Farcida already prepared with the former a generous cut featuring plenty of Apples atop buttery Crust and the later nice and flaky, though without any evidence of “Pumpkin Cream” anywhere, it was after perhaps five or six minutes that three Churros emerged from the kitchen lightly topped with sugar, one visually overdone and the others also too crisp with too much oil still present both on and soaked-into the batter.
Torrejas with Dulce de Leche and Cappuccino Ice Cream
Crema Catalana with Vanilla Ice Cream
Considered by many to be one of Barcelona’s best Tapas Bars, the menu in many ways channeling France’s Bistronomic movement while still distinctively Spanish, it was after a lengthy visit to TICKETS that a couple sat down for late night eats at Bar Mut, the cozy stretch of the bar originally intended as just a few bites subsequently turning into a €104 meal thanks to not only everything sounding good but the “Market Price” on certain dishes driving up the price.
At this point adapted to Spanish time, everything from shop openings to meals occurring hours later than they do Stateside, it was with the foresight to make reservations that two diners were welcomed immediately upon entering at 22h30, an bilingual young man guiding guests through a menu written on Chalkboards with a few specials also quoted off-hand.
Famous for its focus on Catalan Cuisine and well sourced ingredients, the kitchen split across two floors in constant motion with the small room packed from open to close and reservations strongly encouraged for those who do not wish to wait for more than an hour, it was after brief indecision with Beer and good Olives already presented that the choice was made to order in rounds, a total of nine items paced out over the course of 130 minutes with only two considerably large taking into account the day’s already substantial amount of eating.
Independently owned and operated, the well-polished service and a Chef-driven menu allowing Bar Mut to serve the sort of plates other Tapas Restaurants shy away from for the sake of accessibility and diverse crowds, it was immediately on being told that the “Chef’s Croquettas” were made with Black Pudding that two were ordered, everything about the combination of funky Sausage and creamy Cheese in golden Breading living up to admittedly high expectations.
Promising pristine Seafood, the Steamed Mussels in White Wine, plenty of Butter and Garlic as good as anything one might find in Belgium or France made even more delicious when taken bite for bite with Tomato-brushed Bread, it was with the large pot quickly dispatched of that a €26 plate of Octopus arrived, the Cephalopod charred but tender while Potatoes were skin-on and soft with bold aromatics from Paprika.
Unable to resist crispy Potatoes in addition to the tender ones above, Bar Mut’s Patatas Bravas paired with both Mayonnaise and a smoky sauce reminiscent of Chipotle Peppers, it was alongside the sizable glass bowl that a thick slice of caramelized Duck Liver was served atop grilled Bread with Figs and a Balsamic drizzle, the €6 dish an absolute steal while the €26 Paella was also quite a bargain with four King Prawns served on a bed of Saffron-rich Rice with plenty of crusty Socarrat around the edges.
Finishing all but a few spoonfuls of rice, the clock now turned over to the following day and two tasting-menus finally catching up in terms of appetite, it was perhaps a foolhardy move to order not one but two desserts, though in reality it would be difficult to decide which one better as the Catalan Cream came warm beneath bruleed Sugar and slowly melting Vanilla Ice Cream while the “French Toast” was delightful with crackling exterior overlying sweet Custard.
Rivaled by few others in terms of an annoying online reservation system, the sort of place where antiquated systems and high demand require guests to not only be online at the precise moment seats become available but also that they have their time zone set to Barcelona time, it was after failing to secure a seat at Tickets on four consecutive days that the decision was made to reach out via E-mail to ElBarri Tours, a service created by Albert Adria and his team to offer a curated experience at any of their collection of restaurants for a set price depending on the venue.
Originally opened in March 2011, a lone Michelin star awarded in 2014 and still present even as the simultaneously opened 41 Degrees Cocktail Bar has shuttered and several additional Restaurants have joined Albert and Ferran’s post-El Bulli portfolio, Tickets is said to be “a Tapas Bar unlike any other” and from the moment one steps into the space there is little doubt that they are in for a ride, a total of ninety diners for two-turns sat around the eclectic space featuring both a traditional counter as well as several closely-set tables.
As of 2017 ranked #25 on San Pellegrino’s “World’s Top 50 List,” no doubt a partially political decision based on El Bulli’s long tenure at the top as well as the Adria Brothers’ persistent influence on world-wide gastronomy, it was mere moments before 19h00 that the velvet rope was opened with a quick escort to a place just meters from the pass, the €250 pre-paid tab given the kitchen Carte Blanche to serve though a few items were added by request at no additional cost.
Never intended to be a tasting menu the likes of El Bulli or recently opened Enigma, but instead a true Tapas joint where plates come flying from a variety of cooking stations and carts throughout the night, it was as part of the package that a lone server was assigned to present all but sweets throughout the course of a nearly 3-hour stay, the first two items carryovers from El Bulli including an emulsification of Beet Root and Cherry at the base of a glass of Bubbly and the infamous spherical Olives.
Progressing at a fast pace, every item described at length and frequently with instructions about how best to consume it, those expecting a lot of showmanship will not be disappointed in dishes like the Chicken Skin and Anchovy Bones that come across briny and intense nor the Ice Cream Cart Almond Popsicle where guests making the right choice win a prize which in this case was apparently a Sandwich intended to be eaten from one end to the other while progressing from Iberico Jowl to Loin.
Served a total of thirty-four plates throughout the course of the evening, both the Caviar with a Cauliflower-shaped dollop of Cream and Meringue topped in Swedish Fish Roe briny but balanced and well placed in the progression, it was here that another ‘eat the tail, suck the head’ Shrimp was presented with a light hint of Citrus, the Beet and Fig Tortilla served next an off-menu item that was pretty simple while “Melon Ceviche” was a sour and refreshing dish that saw tender Kumquats dominate the flavor profile with a hint of Coriander at the end.
Impressed by a dish called “Crunchy Nigiri,” the ‘filet’ of grilled Eggplant served atop a Rice Cracker Shell with Soy Caviar almost indistinguishable in taste from Tuna Belly, the follow-up of actual Chu-Toro slow-cooked in Pork Fat atop crispy Tapioca Pearls and Seaweed seemed all the more appropriate, another raw dish to follow presenting one of Albert’s famous ‘cubes’ topped in finely chopped Wagyu.
Turning to two classic Sandwiches next, both seen stateside prior from the kitchens of Jose Andres, suffice it to say that little can go wrong with elder Beef Carpaccio wrapped around crisp Bread nor from aged and emulsified Machego, the “Avocado Ravioli” to follow a visually stunning dish with sweet chunks of Crab playing well off the smoky Chipotle Mayonnaise.
Flipping back to Beef momentarily, Rubia Gallega again presented as a thin layer of Ceviche amidst Vinegar Powder as part of a “Nordic Landscape,” it was with palates refreshed by deconstructed Tomato Salad that the evening pressed onward, the followup of spreadable Foie Gras and Smoked Eel a bit more funky than that served at Lasarte in the afternoon and served with a bit too little toast for this diner’s liking.
Strange to see Raw Bar plates so late n the meal, though both the Oyster with an Apple Spherification and a Clam served Bloody Mary-style were nonetheless pleasant, it was here that Chef de Cuisine Fran Agudo move into a progression of five great plates to finish, the Sea Cucumber and Hake throat both briny but delicious while the Crunchy Octopus, Baby Eel ‘Spaghettis’ and Suckling Pig served on a Leaf were all rich but well balanced with the first two particularly memorable for their intense focus on contrasting textures.
At this point moving to the Dessert Room, an area previously appropriated as a Cocktail Bar since redecorated in Candyland fashion with Berries, Flowers and Candy Canes hanging overhead, it was after a brief greeting from Albert Adria that the remainder of the evening was turned over to three pastry Chefs, the “Rose” as a service piece previously seen at Quique Dacosta here topped in palate-cleansing Gelatin followed by a small Pumpkin filled with smooth Ice Cream, intensely sweet Flesh and crunchy Seeds.
Moving next to a Honey-soaked Apricot served next to its liquid and tangy snow, a note on the reservation suggesting that the tour would be ideally focused on tasting several of Albert and team’s award winning Pastries even if that meant forgoing some savory plates, it was next that airy Cornbread was taken from the Microwave and presented with Corn Cream before watching liquid nitrogen freeze a “Pancake” soon to be piped with Strawberry Cream on one side and Vanilla on the other, the resultant Ice Cream Sandwich as impressive in flavor as it was in texture.
Requesting that no more Passion Fruit based items be served after the ornate “Chocolate Flower,” a personal preference that had nothing to do with the dish itself, it was in follow-up that the kitchen presented Albert’s famous Cheesecake which had already been seen replicated that morning at Hofmann Pastisseria while the Fresier and Baked Alaska to follow were each also worthy of imitation, the latter in particular as the creamy Meringue still managed to remain soft after a kiss with the Blow Torch atop poignant Black Pepper that helped to mellow the Pineapple.
No doubt more expensive than the average Tickets visit, though in total the a la carte plates and cocktail actually matched the total cost fairly closely even before accounting for the individualized service and a signed copy of the Tapas: The TICKETS Cuisine presented by Chef Adria, there is little doubt that those looking for a night of fun will enjoy Tickets for exactly what it is, though with Enigma Concept now likely to occupy much of the Chef’s time one does wonder how long the elder restaurant will continue to seem as innovative.
Cucumber mayonnaise, licorice sorbet, green pepper and razor clam tartare
Slightly marinated warm oyster with iced watercress slush, parsnip and sea mist
Liquid burrata and tomato ravioli, scarlet shrimp, avocado, celery and apple
Vegetable leaves and petals salad, herbs, sprouts with lettuce cream and lobster
“La Trufa” with fermented mushrooms and collard greens with an extra virgin olive oil touch
Wagyu carpaccio with extract of tarragon, smoked mullet and frozen cheese powder
Squid Tartare with liquid egg yolk, onion and kaffir consommé
Red prawn on a seabed, fennel and coral emulsion
Virrey fish with iodized sauce, king crab, raw tomatoes and saffron
Charcoal grilled pigeon with citrus, capers, black olive and smoked sauce with galangal
Shiso and mint leaves sorbet, acid touches and milk crisp
Almond and salt praline, apricot and rum ice cream
Petit Fours
Double espresso shaken with ice
A controversial 2017 Michelin 3* recipient by many accounts, Chef Martin Berasategui of the eponymous 3* restaurant in San Sebastian originally opening Lasarte in 2006 and holding two stars since 2009, it was for lunch on Thursday that a seat was taken in the space located on the ground floor of the Monument Hotel in Barcelona, the experience to follow every bit as refined as that at the flagship though the food itself was not quite its equal.
Currently toqued by longtime Berasategui protégé Paolo Casagrande, a team of more than twenty in the kitchen serving a similar number of diners both Lunch and Dinner throughout the week from menus including two tastings and several a la carte selections, it was just as the clock struck 13h30 that guests were invited into the subdued space with textured wooden walls, thick linens and strings of lights poking through the ceiling.
All hushed tones, “Yes sirs” and refinement, a very formal turn compared to the personality shown at Quique Dacosta or the whimsy of El Celler de Can Roca, it was shortly after settling into a soft leather banquet that the first of several staff members stopped by to discuss food and beverage choices as well as allergies and intolerances, a brisk glass of Marques de Gelida Gran Reserva Cava for €18 easily the best Sparkling tasted in Spain and a great pairing to four opening nibbles including the briny flavors of a Sea Anemone Beignet, Crayfish Toast, Soy Toast with Anchovy and a Beetroot Crisp with Caviar.
Located in one of Barcelona’s most expensive shopping areas, men and women on the streets outside all well dressed and carrying bags from the likes of Prada or Chanel, it was with mostly suited patrons that the restaurant began to fill just past 14h00, Berasategui’s classic Mille-Feuille of Foie Gras with Smoked Eel and Green Apple next to arrive in two bites that were balanced and delicious while the day’s amuse of Cucumber Mayonnaise and Licorice Sorbet with Green Pepper and Razor Clam Tartare was spicy and bold yet surprisingly good, as were the housemade Breads served with Olive Oil and five types of Butter.
Considered by many to be a fairly distinctive Chef, Berasategui’s focus on salinity and flavors of the Sea equally well suited to Barcelona as it is to San Sebastian, it was with the linger of lingering sweetness of Razor Clams still on the palate that the Menu officially kicked off with a lightly heated Oyster served alongside Watercress Ice and “Sea Mist” Foam, the juxtaposition of texture and temperature pleasant and a nice lead in to what would turn out to be the afternoon’s best dish, Housemade Burrata served in three melting dollops alongside Tomato Ravioli filled with Shrimp plus the flavors of Celery and Apple.
Following up with a Berasategui staple, the tribute to Bras’ La Gargouillou falling a bit flat in terms of its Vegetables though the Lobster and herbal Cream were quite nice, it was after a substantial delay that a dish entitled “La Trufa” was presented, the description including Pigeon, Foie Gras and fermented Mushrooms creating an expectation of something rich unctuous while the flavor was actually fairly restrained, the bitterness of Collard Greens unfortunately the most prominent on the plate.
At this point taking an odd turn, three thin slices of nicely marbled Beef presented with smoked Fish and a Granite not dissimilar to the flavor of Cheez-It Crackers, it was in follow-up that Chef Casagrande sent forth a lovely Tartare of Squid topped with a raw Egg Yolk, pickled Mustard Seeds and Citrus, the flavors all bold but blending well and leading nicely into an “Eat the Tail, Suck the Head” dish of Red Prawn served with flavors of the Ocean lightly perfumed in Licorice.
Presenting the menu’s penultimate savory as a thin filet of Sea Bream with tiny sections of King Crab, Tomatoes and Saffron, all of it fine but none of it particularly memorable, it was on the backdrop of another saline palate that the kitchen sent forth two slices of ruby-red Pigeon, the intensity of Capers and Olives thankfully reined in by the both smoke and Citrus though the later threatened to overwhelm at times, just as it did in a palate cleanser focusing on the refreshing combination of Shiso and Mint.
Specifically requesting Coffee be served with Dessert rather than after, the server doing his best but unable to complete the tableside task before the kitchen sent forth the meal’s final course, it was in another deconstructed dish centered on Ice Cream that several textures of Almond were plated along with the intense flavor of Apricot, all of it quite enjoyable including the smooth and boozy finish.
A cash-only outlet located in the Gothic Quarter it was after a pleasant stroll around Museu Picasso that a visit was made to Xurreria dels Banys Nous, the store a highly focused operation offering only their namesake item and savory Chips including Cheese Puffs and Pig Skins with nothing on the menu more than €2.50.
Originally opened in 1968 and still under the same ownership, two men working on this particular day with one frying towards the back and another using limited English skills to make sales to a largely tourist population, it was after a quick assessment of the goods that a total of €4.20 was exchanged for two small bags, one of them already cool to touch but the other hard to handle with such a thin layer of paper between hands and freshly fried Dough.
Walking and talking while the Churros cooled slightly, each curl soon discovered to be a bit thicker than others in town with just a bit too much residual Oil beneath Granulated Sugar, it was nonetheless with all four enjoyed that attention next turned to a thicker version with an enlarged cavity piped full of Caramel, the same texture marring the Pastry itself though the filling was slick, sweet and as good as any tasted in Spain to date.
Originally opened as a culinary school in 1983 by Mey Hofmann, the collection of Restaurants including one that holds a Michelin Star later to follow, it was after Breakfast that a stop was made at the Chef’s eponymous Pasteleria on Carrer dels Flassaders, a location near Basilica Santa Maria del Mar as well as Museu Picasso making the place well-known to tourists but nothing offered in the shop remotely resembling an attempt to ‘cash in’ as each item is elegantly presented with a high degree of artistry and effort.
Independently owned by Mey and wife Silvia, their collection of properties now totaling four with a Tavern and Mediterranean Grill joining the Flagship and Patisseria, guests visiting the latter will immediately be struck by the warmth exuded by a place decorated in reclaimed wood and shabby-chic shelves stacked high with hundreds of sweets and confections, the collection of Viennoiserie up front an immediate eye-catcher as is the chilled case in back containing several Cakes and Puddings.
Teaching both hospitality and cooking at the renowned school, the service living up to a high standard with bilingual young ladies still filling shelves but happy to answer questions and assemble orders, it was largely a matter of deciding what looked *best* amongst the glorious display that led to an order comprised of five items, each individually wrapped and taken to a stoop outside for consumption.
Tallying just over €22 for the lot, in reality an excellent deal compared to both bubó Bar and Escriba in terms of both quality and quantity, it was with the quintet’s lone savory that tasting got started, the only unglazed Croissant featuring a yawning pocket of air filled with creamy Gouda and a curl of freshly sliced Pork more than a little impressive in terms of maintaining the Pastry’s structural integrity while still packing plenty of the Ham and Cheese in its interior.
Now approaching year ten at the Bakery, young Chefs from the school rotating through on a regular basis as part of their training, it was with savories complete that two more Croissants were tasted, both the Raspberry Jam and Mascarpone-filled versions every bit as impressive as the first with the Mascarpone particularly light considering just how much sweet Cheese had been used and the same to be said of a Cheesecake served as though it were ‘just’ Cheese, deep spoonfuls revealing a buttery Graham Cracker base and a thick layer of Raspberry Puree at the bottom.
At this point already debating going back for more, a plan that unfortunately never came to fruition due to an otherwise jammed-packed dining agenda, it was finally with the Tart Tatin Sandwich that a tasting of Hofmann’s goods came to a close, the Apples cooked just barely soft and soaked in Toffee atop Custard trapped between two pieces of Shortcrust meant to resemble Bread fresh off a Panini press.
Conveniently located on Carrer de les Caputxes, both the Cathedral of Barcelona as well as Basilica Santa Maria del Mar nearby and Museu Picasso only a few blocks away, it was just past 08h30 that two guests stopped in at bubó Bar for breakfast, nearby sister bubó considered by many to be one of the city’s more innovative spots for Tapas where owner and Chef Carles Mampel has been serving guests for over a dozen years.
Known predominantly as an award-winning pastry Chef in his early years, both bubó and the Bar next door opened when the Chef was just 37 and originally focused on glistening Macarons and beautiful Bon-Bons, it has been with time that Mampel has one both locals and tourists over with savories and although both the locations in Spain as well as those in Dubai and Tokyo remain predominantly sweet those looking for Charcuterie, a Sandwich or Tortilla Espanola topped with Meat, Cheese or Vegetables will certainly not be denied something good to eat.
Spending far more money of the mothership than the Bar, the latter a sort of afterthought with drab gray benches, blue walls and fairly uncomfortable stools, it was after perusing the menu that a middle-aged Indian gentleman took a four-part order, two Americanos served quickly along with three Pastries while Iberico Ham was gently toasted between two slices of thin and crusty Bread in the back.
Not exactly an expeditious sort of place, the lone staff-member having to run down to bubó for pricing verification on the Éclair before returning to report a computer upgrade would delay paying the bill by at least fifteen minutes, it was with Coffee slowly sipped that a first taste was taken of a glazed Croissant filled with ground Walnuts in Marzipan, the taste every bit as sweet as it sounds and a bit softer than would be expected while the Apple Cream Brioche eggy, soft and light with the Custard base playing well off three gently baked wedges of Fruit atop the pastry.
Typically not a fan of Orange and Chocolate, but told by the man behind the counter that the candied Rind was more ‘tangy’ than sweet, it was in fact in the Éclair that Chef Mampel’s best work was discovered, the €6 price-tag making the crisp Choux and Dark Chocolate by far the morning’s most expensive item though generally worth it, save for the additional ten minutes that it took for the computers to finally be up and running.
11. ASTEROID – Puigpedrós cheese, apple, sponge cake
12. ECLIPSE – Grapefruit, coffee, tea
13. KRYPTON – Cucumber, ginger, lime
14. MILKY WAY – Coconut milk, baked milk, Amande chocolate
GAMBA TAILS – Mole verde, vegetables, leaves and flowers
CREAMY RICE WITH SEA CUCUMBER – Maresme style, mimetic cayenne
BRUNETA VEAL FILLET – 3 misos: white, red and black
HOMEMADE TUPÍ CHEESE – With goat, cow, and sheep cheese with grilled fruit confit
Double Espresso with ice
PETIT FOURS – The Sun, banana, passion fruit, cayenne, black chocolate / Mercury, Aromes de Montserrat candy / Venus, citrus jelly / Earth, sea water bonbon, crushed wafer / Mars, griote, white chocolate, pink pepper / Jupiter, puff pastry and angel hair / Saturn, chocolate, praliné, blueberry, juniper / Uranus, spicy chocolate truffle / Neptune, philo pastry, liquorice, sherbet
Now 65 years old and still in the kitchen daily, her career essentially beginning as soon as she was old enough to cook amongst a family of farmers, Carme Ruscalleda is currently the world’s 2nd most Michelin Starred Female Chef, her Tokyo outpost holding two macaroons and the location opened outside Barcelona in 1988 garnering the Red Guide’s highest accolade ever since 2006.
Located in Sant Pol de Mar, a quaint seaside town just over an hour from central Barcelona with most of the journey featuring expansive views of the Mediterranean, it is via the highway that those approaching the Restaurant by car will enter village and although returning guests may be aware of Sant Pau’s Private Lot those making their first trip will be compelled to park nearly a half-kilometer away, the walk usually a pleasant one down narrow streets but on this particular day a pressing issue after the meal in the midst of a torrential downpour.
Focusing on traditional Catalan flavors, a sense of seasonality and the Ocean present in most of her plates but much like the Roca Brothers greatly influenced by Modernism during the era of El Bulli, 2017 sees Chef Ruscalleda and her team taking on the difficult concept of a “Menu inspired by The Universe,” a fourteen course feast capped by nine planetary Mignardises that was ordered by one guest at a table overlooking the garden while the other opted to dine a la carte.
Set back from the street and the Sea, a nearby trainstop dropping those traveling by such means directly at the Beach and not far from Sant Pau, it is after greetings in well-appointed foyer that guests are led to widely spaced seating inside a room of maize and red, less than a dozen tables making the room quiet and romantic with thick linens though servers often seem to be a mile away which can make communicating with them rather difficult, such as was the case when it seemed no one gave the Chef notice to begin service thus pushing the 21h00 start back by another thirty-five minutes.
Offering a diverse Wine list, both diners opting to begin with a very brisk €15 glass of Cava that went well with more than half of the menu including three savory Cookies present on arrival, it was with outsourced Bread featuring a robust Crust that the evening got underway after apologies for the aforementioned delay, a dish called Galileo Galilei featuring marinated Anchovies atop Bread stuffed with a Cheese and Egg Mixture quite unexpected in its complexity while “Red Planet” channeled Mars in presentation with Stawberry Powder atop chilled Tomato Veloute.
Forced to augment service slightly in presenting both tasting and a la carte menus to the same table, the three savory courses all offered at €49 each with Dessert €19, it was after an impressive Salt Cod Croquetta served with a shimmering comet tail that a large plate of Prawns in Green Mole was served alongside “Blue Planet,” the a la carte dish elegant in its balance of Sea and Earth while the thin crisp painted like Earth shattered to reveal a similar idea with a single Crustacean bathed in Lemon Curd with a hint of Licorice.
At this point with the pace finally up to speed, though several surrounding tables that were already present and dining long before the 21h00 start quoted by the Restaurant as “the earliest time available” when booking over four months in advance, it was in Chickpea Soup alongside fried orbs of the same that Octopus was served along with Iodine-laced dots, the “Exoplanets” of Eel presented next taking a distinctly Asian twist while the a la carte plate of Creamy Rice and pan-seared Sea Cucumber outshined anything offered on the tasting with exemplary Risotto cooked in Shellfish stock, Cheese and a light touch of heat.
Crossing the Tasting’s midpoint with thin crisps of Pastry forming a dome over Lobster and Beans from both Seaside and Farm, the follow-up an off-putting plate of Squid and Fish with a snotty textured Sauce perfumed in Cognac, it was with a bit more Bread requested to refresh the palate that a generous filet of Sea Bass was presented with Squash Blossoms, Lettuce and Asparagus, the a la carte entrée of Veal with three different styles of Miso served along with the Fish and still being enjoyed when the final savory of the tasting menu arrived similar though more elaborately plated with Wagyu Beef.
Transitioning savory to sweet with Cheese, the “Asteroid” of Puigpedrós dusted in dark Spongecake Crumbs atop Apple Gelee a very pleasant and creamy bite, it was here that “Eclipse” was offered, the Grapefruit with a sour Yogurt center topped tableside with strong Coffee to create a flavor greater than the sum of its parts that at first seemed quite harsh but after the first bite mellowed into something pleasantly tangy and refreshing.
Electing to enjoy housemade Tupi Cheese as the final a la carte Dish, three different Milks brought together in one pot to form a smooth and mild flavor that paired well with Nuts, Fruit Chutney and locally foraged greens, it was here that Ruscalleda and her team of twenty showed an unexpected sense of humor, the dish titled Krypton with texture-modified Cucumbers on a base of Ginger and Lime Pudding revealing a tiny image of Superman when eaten before being replaced by the “Milky Way” of Tuilles, Crumbles and Ice Cream featuring the flavors of Coconut and Chocolate.
At this point fully aware that one umbrella would not be suitable for the trip back to the car, the offer from staff of one of their umbrellas – to keep – politely declined as it would have done little good with water in the streets now above ankle deep, it was slowly lingering over Petit Fours and Espresso that the evening stretched on, Neptune and The Sun a bit challenging in just how poignant the flavors were presented while both Saturn and Earth were very impressive in terms of their balance of sweet and salty flavors.
