Pork Nugs – Fried Pork Strips, Soy Marinade, Maple Glaze, Black Pepper, Lime
Morning Maple Pizza – Maple Sausage, Gruyere, Bacon, Scrambled Egg, Sunny-side Up Egg
Apple Strudel – Apple Butter, Cinnamon Mascarpone
Managed as a sort of hive-mind collective featuring creative food in a raucous setting it was with a big smile on the face that Pig Ate My Pizza was entered immediately after dinner at Travail Kitchen and Amusements, The Buckeyes and Penn State playing live from Happy Valley on Televisions at the Bar and a seat conveniently emptying mere seconds after adding the name to a wait list.
Owned by the same team led by James Winberg, Bob Gerken and Mike Brown, the former home of Travail now repurposed as a neighborhood Pizzeria featuring anything but average Pies, Pig Ate My Pizza has quietly served the Robbinsdale community for five years and although accolades may not match any of Ann Kim’s spots the passion is on par as are the ingredients and items made from them.
Adding dash of Gastropub to the mix with several Bar Snacks and Craft Brews, the environment narrow and cramped but not uncomfortable, it was after weighing hunger versus menu descriptions that three plates were requested, the first called “Pork Nugs” taking lean strips of Swine and flash frying them before adding what tastes a lot like what one gets on Korean Fried Chicken but with a touch more sweetness.
Not especially a place for purists, a simple Margherita best sought elsewhere, PAMP’s Pies instead reference thicker “Pan” Crusts found throughout the Midwest but for those looking for something different there’s little doubt one Hot Gandhi with Tikka Masala or a Bay of Pigs with Mustard and Pickles will intrigue, though on this particular night Morning Maple won out and “Breakfast for Dinner” was a great success thanks to housemade Maple Sausage, Bacon, Eggs and Cheese though it may have been better off without the Microgreens.
Half tempted to finish up with Corn “Crack Pie,” IE an individually sized version of the Crème Brulee just tasted at Travail, it was instead on the bartender’s recommendation that Apple Strudel was ordered, the $7 portion easily sharable and served warm with buttery Pastry surrounding stewed Apples and two quenelles of Cinnamon Mascarpone on the side.
Sandwich Cookie – Black Pepper, Lemon, Sweet Corn Mousse
Baba Au Rhum – Honey, Blue Cheese
Creme Brulee – Sweet Corn, Citrus, Mint
S’mores Bar – Graham, Chocolate, Marshmallow
In a year that has featured trips both further north and further south of the equator than any other the meal that will stick out as the year’s most fun took place at Travail Kitchen and Amusements on Saturday, but this isn’t just some gimmick as the food is also delicious while the price won’t break the bank like so many other “destination” tasting menus.
Self-dubbed a “Collective” and soon relocating to a new space it was Saturday night that a seat for one was booked at Travail Kitchen and Amusements, the Restaurant’s location in Robbinsdale making it something of a destination for in-the-know diners smart enough to pre-purchase a seat for a night that marries Food, Beverage and theater.
Led by Mike Brown, James Winberg and Bob Gerken with backing from at least a dozen crew-members, reservations confirmed at the door and guests soon seated throughout a vast space surrounding an open kitchen, it is immediately on arrival that five bites are found waiting, a quick description of each and suggestions to begin with the “Slushy” revealing a glimpse of what diners can expect over the next two hours and twenty-two courses.
Rooted in technique and local ingredients, dashes of modernism occasionally used to enhance flavors or create a “wow” moment, it was with palate readied by Pork, Cheese and Tomatoes that the fizzy “Pink Drink 3.0” was selected to carry across the rest of the evening, a taste of bright Citrus particularly pairing well to the first actual course featuring a caramelized Scallop resting in its pan Sauce fortified by Roe and Lemon.
Playing Sports on Television and an eclectic mix of Tunes ranging from 70s to 90s, the ceiling lined with over-sized stuffed Animals like one might win at the State Fair, it was from the hands of a large bearded man who seemed to be in charge that Sea Bass stuffed with Seafood Sausage arrived next, a bit of Orange again tying well into the Cocktail while a palate cleanser in follow-up came in the form of Gelatin mixed with Melon and Poppy Seeds.
Happily seated at the bar with a full vantage of the action, two septuagenarians on the right having a blast despite the Restaurant’s youthful vibe, it was “with no hands” that diners were next asked to bite crispy Bacon from a clothespin, memories of Alinea quickly surfacing but soon supplanted by a creamy Potage of Mushrooms intended to be spooned and subsequently mopped up with Brazilian Cheese Bread.
Taking inspiration from a color next, interestingly the same one featured as part of a rollicking meal at La Jolla’s TBL3, it was in shades of Purple that guests were invited to taste locally-grown Produce in various preparations before transitioning to Meat courses, the sticky Pork Rib and quenelle of herbed Potatoes a pleasant send-off to summer completed by a creamy Yuzu Cooler.
Gifted a small bowl of Dippin Dots next, the tableside liquid nitrogen show gathering eyes, it was in follow-up that thick Masa surrounding roast Pork was presented, a multitude of textures all brought together by silky refried Beans that started vegetal, finished smoky and thus offered an elegant transition to the nights final savory of grilled Pork in Tomato Gravy.
Perhaps the very definition of a “chef-driven” Restaurant, staff actually pausing for a minute and offering prizes to whoever shouts out the final answer on Wheel of Fortune, it was here that guests were asked to stand and visit a station where “Cups” made of Orange Butter were filled with Thai Tea Ice Cream before returning to seats for more surprises, a refreshing Bon-Bon followed by delicate White Chocolate Mousse perfumed by Roses and Raspberries.
Still not finished and thankfully not too full, Travail doing a better job than many in terms of pacing and portions, it was after an Alfajore topped in Sweet Corn Mousse and Black Pepper that Dessert’s showstoppers arrived, the “Crème Brulee” in reality like Chess Pie made from pureed Kernels while a spongy Baba came soaked in Rum and Honey alongside creamy Blue Cheese Mousse.
Having already pre-paid the tab by TOCK, only one cocktail left to be charged, it was with OSU vs. Penn State just starting that a “Take Home” gift was presented prior to departure, the thick S’mores Sandwich another highlight even though it never made it home and was instead enjoyed at Travail Collective’s “Pig Ate My Pizza” next door.
Johnnycakes, Ham, Cheddar, Cowpeas, Sunny-side Up Egg
Southern Fried Whole Bird
Tennessee Hot Leg and Thigh
Herb Crusted Catfish, Pickled Green Beans, Red Beans, Rice
Hush Puppies, Aioli
Mac + Cheese
Cheddar Drop Biscuits
Banana Cream Pie
Peach Snickerdoodle Pie, Mascarpone
If there is any one flaw to traveling solo it is being forced to limit ordering to just “highlights,” but benefited by a blog with over 400 unique visitors daily it was with good fortunate that a group of five was gathered on Saturday to experience Revival, every belly needed to work through ten plates of Food from the deep South.
Opened in 2015 by Chef Thomas Boemer and since spawning a Saint Paul outpost plus a new spot for smoked Meats, accolades arriving fast from both local and national press, Revival is found at 4257 Nicollet Avenue and opening daily at 11am daily it still remains pertinent to arrive early on weekends, the space nearly full by noon and eventually growing a waitlist that is likely unpleasant during Winter thanks to the Restaurant’s limited floor-space.
Focused on Boemer’s Southern childhood and authentic by way of the Chef’s attention to detail, old family recipes scaled to Restaurant service by way of modern technique but never at the expense of process, it was immediately on arrival at 11:30pm that a “complete party” was confirmed before seats were offered, old floors creaking beneath feet white bright yellow wallpaper covered in flowers smiled less than twenty feet to either side.
Casual in terms of service and attire, a come-as-you-are vibe bolstered by overhead music and paper menus, it was after some discussion of hunger and preferences that an order was composed, the opening duo of Pork Rinds dusted in spicy Cheese Powder an all-ages hit while fluffy Cornmeal Flapjacks were mostly savory but nicely balanced by a Pan Reduction of what seemed to be Molasses and Hot Sauce.
Moving next to entrees and sides, the table nearly overwhelmed as three adults and two children had been deemed safe for two four-tops pushed together, it was with Hot Chicken spicy but a bit too greasy that attention turned instead to Boemer’s traditional Southern recipe, a lengthy Buttermilk brine turning both Dark and White Meat tender while seasoned Breading cooked in Lard adheres tightly to the Flesh with hints of Paprika and Black Pepper.
Not just a spot for fried Food, though Hush Puppies with tangy Aioli most certainly justify their $5 price tag, it was here that attention turned to baked Catfish carefully crusted in Herbs and served atop Beans and Rice, the house-pickled green ones adding vibrancy while additional sides including Cheddar Biscuits and crusty Macaroni and Cheese good but not especially memorable.
Rounding out the afternoon with Dessert, one young lady’s birthday prompting a candle and song, it is unfortunate that Revival’s Banana Cream Pie recipe calls for 5x more topping than Fruit or Crust though the seasonal “Peach Snickerdoodle” topped in Mascarpone made up for it by being dense but delightful, at times like a Cobbler and in other bites more like Bread Pudding.
Favored as a three meal eatery focused on Oysters, Burgers, Breakfast and Booze it was while being mindful of capacity that a stop was made at The Lowry, the space at 2112 Hennepin Avenue found bustling at 10am but seating for one easily accommodated at one of several high-tops adjacent the Bar.
Opened in 2011 by industry veterans David Burley and Stephanie Shimp, former servers who acted on a hunch in 1993 and have since grown their brand across nine eateries, guests entering the Uptown space will quickly find themselves greeted by friendly faces behind a hostess podium, the former Hollywood Video spread across two sections and dark wood with Orange accents.
Serving a diversity of options from 6:30am until 2:00am daily, the menu essentially an “all-day” affair though there are subtle differences before and after four o’clock, it was with Coffee in hand and Golf on television that two items were ordered, an inquiry as to whether they could be served simultaneously thankfully answered with the affirmative.
Described as an “Urban Kitchen,” the precise meaning of such apparently gussied up Comfort Foods with no lack of variety, it was setting aside popular items including Cheese Curds and Patty Melts that plates arrived after twenty minutes, a first glance raising suspicions about “Dixie Chicken” that looked and tasted like overcooked Strips atop a fluffy Round no different than one might make for themselves at La Quinta or Days Inn, the Gravy at least competent while “Maple Syrup” no doubt came from a bottle of Mrs. Butterworth or Log Cabin.
Setting aside 2/3 of the mess and turning attention to a “Feature,” one of four monthly specials tacked onto The Lowry’s Wine list, it was thankfully dense Bread Pudding soaked in what tasted like melted Pralines that buoyed an otherwise forgettable morning, though the swirl of Reddi-wip served as a reminder that in reality this too was composed of ingredients no better than what is found at Denny’s.
Opting to complete a Tim Niver three-peat it was following meals at Saint Dinette and Mucci’s Italian a week prior that Meyvn was visited, the restaurateur’s new Minneapolis concept once again utilizing Chef Adam Eaton’s talents but this time centered on Montreal-style Bagels.
Located on the bones of a former restaurant at 901 West Lake Street, the spacious design with plenty of light bidding guests to place their order at a counter before choosing from a multitude of seating options, it is well before the 7am opening that an oven lovingly named Liza begins to toast rounds hand-formed downstairs while a menu of small plates accompanies at prices ranging $7-$17.
Dreamt up as a three-meal spot with Dinner service beginning at 5:00pm, the addition of Fried Chicken and Pierogis most noteworthy, it is from a list of Mediterranean and Jewish Deli items that decisions are made earlier, Shakshouka and Nova Lox both appearing quite popular but personal tastes opting for three alternative selections at a total of $26 including tax and gratuity.
Criticized by some as too pricey, the $5 for a Bagel and Schmear undoubtedly higher than Panera or Einstein Bros. but justified immediately as teeth crackle through a wood-fired skin to find soft insides and velvety Cream Cheese, it was just as the Sugar-coated masterpiece was finished that three Potato Pancakes arrived, the taste and texture identical to Chef Eaton’s “Hash Brown” from Saint Dinette but this time accompanied by housemade Apple Butter and pureed Beets for $9 instead of Caviar and Cream for $10 which, by comparison, does seem a little steep.
Rounding out the menu with Desserts, warm Chocolate Chip Cookies from Liza no doubt tempting, it was instead a generous square of Carrot Cake that called out for seven dollars, the presentation perhaps not as elegant as a triangle slicked in Buttercream but everything else about it pretty much perfect from the Bread Pudding-like texture with bold spicing to the gooey pool of Frosting.
Crusher Croissant with Valrhona Chocolate, Almond Butter, Pretzel Finish
Located not far from Patisserie 46 it was at Sun Street Breads that Saturday Breakfast began, the first of three stops finding Chef Solveig Tofte and her team serving a full house just as they have been since opening in 2011.
Designed as a European Bakery focused first on technique, Chef Tofte a one time competitor in Paris’ Coupe du Monde before returning to Minneapolis where her Baguettes and Loaves quickly sold out at Kingfield Farmers Market, 2018 now sees Sun Street serving as a full-service Restaurant for Breakfast and Lunch from Tuesday through Sunday.
Set up for counter-style ordering with what would appear to be plenty of seating, menus near the door and on walls allowing most to compose an order while waiting in line, it was finally reaching the front that plans for Pancakes were terminated in favor of six Pastries, the total cost just over $20 a veritable bargain for tastes starting out with a Viennoiserie densely packed in Green Onions, Sweet Potatoes and Goat Cheese.
Continuing savory with a still-warm Biscuit, several layers of Buttermilk and Flour riddled with Sweet Corn and Bacon plus pockets of Cheese, it is in tribute to Healdsburg Creamery that Sun Street offers The Downtowner, a laminated spiral rising high in the middle where it is gooey with Butter and spices while the exterior is generously covered in Granulated Sugar
Frankly impressed by the variety offered from such a small display, the enriched Dough of an Eastern European Kolach next spilling fresh Blackberries and Cream Cheese, suffice it to say that no Clotted Cream or Preserves are necessary to enjoy Tofte’s Raspberry Cream Scone as both are already incorporated into the buttery base while an item dubbed “Crusher Croissant” skips overly-sweet Frangipane in favor of housemade Almond Butter and inserts two cores of Chocolate at the center of shattering Dough flecked by Salt.
Duck Two Ways, Porcini Bread Pudding, Worcestershire Glazed Beets, Spinach
Coconut Sorbet
Pear Mille Feuille, Candied Almonds, Lemon Paper, Summercrisp Pear Sorbet
Long heralded as one of the Twin Cities’ best Restaurants, a Beard Award for Chef Alex Roberts in 2010 placing Restaurant Alma in the national spotlight, it was Friday evening that a spot at the bar was filled to partake in Executive Chef Lucas Rosenbrook’s Prix Fixe Menu, the fact that a reservation had been made well in advance apparently still not enough to justify a table in the main room despite what appeared to be several open seats.
Located inside a historic building within one of Minneapolis’ older neighborhoods, the addition of a Hotel and Café in recent years turning Alma into a more inclusive space for both travelers and locals, it was just prior to a 7:00pm reservation that the area in front of a youthful bartender and several exceedingly loud guests was found set with plates and menu, Cocktails for just $8-9 admittedly a breath of fresh air compared to Las Vegas and one called Balkan Punch proving complex but nicely balanced in its combination of Wine, Citrus and Spirits.
Best described as New American or perhaps “Farm to Table” in its Fare, everything possible locally sourced and all Breads as well as thick Ricotta made on-site, it was for $8 that a heaping spoonful of Cheese was served slick with Honey and Rosemary, the Caraway Crackers proving a brilliant delivery device both here and for salted Butter later though both Sourdough and Focaccia seemed a bit dry.
Perhaps unfairly frustrated by the seating situation, though the fact that the all five patrons to the right were liberally partaking in Wine and growing louder by the minute made 20+ minute gaps between courses feel infinitely longer, it was finally thirty-five minutes after sitting that a thin layer of raw Bison arrived next to a smear of Yogurt and crumbled Chickpeas, the flavors fine but gone in three bites and followed by more unintentional eavesdropping before receiving a bowl of tepid Broth and a rubbery Egg.
Perhaps sensing some displeasure or perhaps being friendly, the difference hard to tell when a Bartender is forced to act as sever while being constantly tasked with mixing and pouring for the whole room, it was alongside “Duck Two Ways” that a complimentary pour of 2010 Colpetrone Sagrantino Di Montefalco was offered, the rich Cherry flavors playing very well off rosy Flesh and crisp Confit as well as the umami-rich round of Stuffing.
Cleansing the palate with pure Coconut Sorbet, the lack of added sweetness surprising but greatly appreciated, it was deciding between Mille Feuille or Pot de Crème that the evening ended on a high note, the noisy group at this point shouting but not quite loud enough to silence a spoon crackling through crisp layers that at first look like Biscotti but in reality may very well contain a thousand leafs of Puff Pastry divided by thick Custard.
Church Basement Cookie and Bar Plate – Apple Bar, Special K Bar, Chocolate Chip Cookies, Cold Milk
Born of Korean heritage and educated at Columbia in English one can fairly assume Chef Ann Kim did not grow up wanting to be a Pizzaiolo, yet ever since opening Pizzeria Lola in 2010 her name has been synonymous with dining in Minneapolis, a follow-up called Hello Pizza built in tribute to all the Slices she devoured while in College and Young Joni the most ambitious project yet.
Opened late 2016 as a “fine-dining” concept in the Northeast, the cavernous wood interior featuring an open kitchen and varied seating options from which a big communal table is available to walk-ins, it was perhaps twenty minutes after Friday’s 4:00p opening that the space was found already busy, a brief wait followed by the presentation of Water and a menu divided into sections offering Pizza, Vegetable, Salad, and “Other Delights.”
Rooted in wood’s fire, leaping flames visible behind the counter while a large copper oven resides in a separate area to the left, Young Joni’s Food is currently under the watch of Executive Chef Michael Shaughnessy and although several items competed for attention a rule against half-and-half Pies unfortunately handicaps solo diners tremendously.
Not at all “stuffy” or expensive despite its self-described genre, the severs pleasant and efficient with overall volume lively but not “loud,” it was after lengthy debate amongst global inspirations that “YOLO” was ordered in favor of Kim’s famous Short Ribs, the Crust picking up a good blister and remaining slightly puffy at the center of a modest cornicione while “Meat Lovers” toppings, Red Sauce and Mozzarella were all the quality one might expect in a single-person $17 Pie.
Saving room for one more meal and thus reluctant to delve further into a menu built on share plates, though the server was happy to advise on what might be most appropriate, it was under the assumption that Cookies and Ice Cream can never take up that much stomach space that two Desserts were ordered, the “Church Basement” Plate a good bargain at just $1 per piece and highlighted by miniature Apple Cobblers while the Soft Serve was so-so and without a lot of difference between flavors.
It seems safe to assume that most people from more than two hours away are unaware that Grand Forks and East Grand Forks are not only different cities but also in different states, thus it was with some confusion that the GPS exclaimed “Welcome to Minnesota” en route to Up North Pizza Pub, a friend from the area having just arrived moments prior to parking in an empty lot and entering the space at 314 4th Street Northwest.
Launched late 2016 by a group of four friends hoping to bring unique Pizza and Craft Beer to their city, both in fairly low supply despite the nearby University of North Dakota, Up North Pizza Pub is housed in a spacious building flooded with natural light from tall windows, a bevy of seating options including bar, tables and high-tops seeing the latter most favorable for two guests on a Friday just after the eleven o’clock opening.
Not particularly busy despite the day and impending lunch hour, only a few other tables filled throughout the meal’s eighty minute course, it was after being informed that the Restaurant was “out” of Burrata that the decision was made to invest in two Appetizers and a split-Pizza, the “Honey Buffalo” Meatballs also unavailable as listed and instead served as rubbery gobs of Meat topped in overly-sweet Sauce while two Bavarian Pretzels for $9 rivaled Las Vegas or New York City pricing but were thankfully buttery and well-proofed alongside thick Beer Cheese.
Certainly not a place unwilling to take chances, the Cheesesteak Sandwich give a Korean spin while Salads and Mac n’ Cheese also reach globally, it was setting aside simple Red Sauce or Pepperoni that a round Pie with Foccacia-like Crust was topped generously, the “Salad” half balancing convincing Confit Duck with Grapes, Pecans and Goat Cheese plus Bechamel while “Drunken Rooster” trended a little too sweet thanks to Balsamic Drizzle that, at least based on an obviously inaccurate menu, was only supposed to be on the Duck half.
Conveniently attached to a Barber Shop and featuring a sign that reads “Better than your Grandma’s, as good as your Mom’s” it was around 10:30am that Darcy’s Café was found mostly full, a collection of construction works having recently bellied up to the bar flirting with two waitresses who did their best to be pleasant while at the same time taking orders, clearing tables, settling tabs and serving Food.
At one time a gas station but later converted into an eatery by Darcy Fonder, her retirement seeing the space suited for at-most forty sold to a former North Dakota Fighting Sioux, guests entering the shabby building will quickly notice just five tables and three booths surrounding the center island, a first come-first served policy often leading to long lines even when the weather turns frigid and in particular on weekends.
Featuring a two-sided laminated menu plus several specials, a 6am opening Monday through Friday with slightly later Weekend hours making Darcy’s the top spot in Grand Forks for all-day Breakfast, it was passing over Soup and humongous Sandwiches that eyes focused squarely on Pancakes, bottomless 99-cent Coffee as good as the $2.49 stuff in Cafes elsewhere and always piping hot.
No doubt a meeting place for locals, persons of all ages engaged in conversations of varying volume, it was less than ten minutes after placing an order that two items arrived simultaneously, three fluffy Flapjacks upgraded with gooey Frosting and lots of Cinnamon far better than their $6.58 pricetag would indicate while Bread Pudding baked in a Coffee Mug was unfortunately a touch dry at the bottom even though the top half was buttery, rich and full of plump Raisins.
PJ – Peanut Butter Glaze, Peanuts, Raspberry Jam Filling
Predating the arrival of Oh Doughnuts by approximately 18 months one can safely say Bronuts brought Artisan fried Dough to Manitoba, and with a location in walking distance from Clementine it was on the way out of town that Brett and Dylan Zahari’s comfortable Café was visited and found to be excellent despite its surfer-dude name.
Yet another fairly new business hoping to make Winnipeg’s Exchange District a destination, aforementioned Clementine as well as deer + almond also earning accolades both local and national, it is immediately on entering the brightly lit space at 3-100 King Street that guests will notice a stark contrast from Amanda Kinden’s Doughnuttery on Broadway, the clean layout and loquacious employees happy to discuss their concept and make recommendations amongst ten daily choices.
A passion project for the locally raised brothers, time and research including baking classes in The Bay Area finally yielding a signature Brioche base that raises high with subtle egginess and plenty of Yeast, each Bronut is named after an unspecified Woman or Man and beginning first with a lady named Blair the quality of Glaze is immediately evident as the flavor of fresh Strawberries walks in-step with reduced Balsamic Vinegar.
Continuing next with Friday’s Special, a weekly tradition where Bronuts tries out new ideas, it probably will not surprise anyone that Caramel and Coffee pair nicely considering the success of Starbucks Macchiato while a transition to Cake shows versatility as two entirely different flavored bases came across moist and dense, Trixie like a warm bowl of Oats and Francine better than any fair or farm ring thanks to bold aromatics plus a lightly fruity linger.
Rounding out the morning with filled and Fritter, the fact that Bronuts covers a wide-range of styles despite such a concise collection speaking volumes about the Zaharis’ attention to detail, suffice it to say that even Peanut Butter and Jelly is benefitted by scratch made Jam plus whole salted Peanuts while “Brock” eschewed typical Fruit flavors and went all in on a Fritter that is grease-free but still hefty thanks to Dark Chocolate, Marshmallows and Nuts both on top and within.
Originally opened with Adam Donnelly, though the Chef of Segovia Tapas Bar and Restaurant has since sold his piece to partners, Clementine Cafe has been earning accolades since 2016 as one of Winnipeg’s best spots for Breakfast and on Friday morning with snowflakes falling the no reservations space at 123 Princess Street proved why with a concise menu focused on locally sourced ingredients and big flavors despite low prices.
Located below street level in the Exchange District, several stairs necessary to be navigated en route to a sizable room flanked by bars for Espresso and Booze plus an open kitchen to the back, it was shortly after Clementine’s Seven o’clock opening that the space was found empty save for two Senior Citizens, service expectedly prompt and efficient as Women and Men in the back stayed busy preparing for a rush around 8:00am.
Serving just nine plates and eight sides daily, most prone to frequent variation, it was warmed by a bold Americano that mere moments passed before receiving a bowl of Chia Seed Pudding fortified with Cashew Milk and pureed Bananas, the addition of diced Peaches plus Berries and Granola creating a cool and rich mixture that likely fares equally well in cold or warm weather.
Admittedly intrigued by Mushroom Chilaquiles and Fried Chicken on Toast, though a lengthy drive back to Minneapolis studded with additional dining plans warned against over-indulgence, it was instead in a “Brussels Style Waffle” that additional appetite was invested, the overused regional reference here thankfully found 100% accurate as the rectangle was crispy on the edges yet cake-like at the center and beautifully garnished in Blueberry Syrup, plump Berries and a big spoonful of Whipped Cream with Lemon Zest, Candied Pecans and dried Pomegranate Arils.
Originally slated for Dinner on Wednesday, an eight o’clock arrival finding the 43-seat Restaurant completely full with a sixty minute wait for even solo diners, it was instead on Thursday at 4:55pm that Segovia was visited, a seat at the Chefs counter easily secured though the place would again be full within an hour.
Thoroughly titled Segovia Tapas Bar and Restaurant, a name that has stuck to the Osborne Village hot spot for nearly a decade as it fully defines what was Manitoba’s first Spanish small plates venue, guests entering the space at 484 Stradbrook Avenue are first greeted by heavy wooden doors before entering a dimly lit space, the former home fully renovated and now comprised of two dining rooms including one with a full view of the kitchen.
Rustic yet elegant in design, a combination of exposed brick, wood tables, steel and leather situated behind slate countertops, Segovia represents the vision of Chef Adam Donnelly who opened the Restaurant at just 26 years old, the fact that the place remains packed six days a week despite not accepting reservations a testament to a combination of excellent service and an ever changing menu that stands out more than just locally.
Rooted in tradition but at the same time looking forward, an embrace of Winnipeg’s limited seasonality differentiating Donnelly’s cooking from what one might find in Barcelona, Bilbao or even the city from which his Restaurant takes its name, guests are wise to begin their tasting with items including Ham Croquettes or Tomato-brushed Toast topped in imported Jamon Iberico, both sold at fractions of what Celebrities like Jose Andres charge yet just as precise while fresh Canadian Razor Clams with strained Yogurt and Herbs atop toast were absolutely delightful in their balance of sweet and sour.
Treated next to Segovia’s take on Patatas Bravas, justifiably one of the few items consistently offered since day one, it was with the smoky flavor of Paprika still lingering on the lips that a sizable plate of Wild Mushrooms followed, the use of Acid and Hummus intended to be eaten on crispy Flatbread not particularly Spanish but everything about the combination wonderful and arguably the best dish tasted in all of Winnipeg.
Rounding out savories with a plump Quail grilled and served over lengths of Celeriac, the Root predictably earthy but well balanced by vibrant Salsa, it was after readying the palate with Espresso and Dark Chocolate that Dessert was served, a quartet of Churros with smooth Yogurt as good as what one will find in Mexico or overseas while Dates split and stuffed with Mascarpone plus Pistachios in a pool of Maple Syrup are as simple yet stunning as they are sweet.
Turtle Doughnut with Caramel Glaze, Chocolate, Pecans
Vegan Pershing with Yogurt Glaze
Vegan Chocolate Cream Doughnut with Peanut Butter Glaze
Blackberry Curd Doughnut
Key Lime Pie Doughnut with Graham Cracker
Brown Butter Banana Cheesecake Doughnut
Having visited Calgary and Edmonton in January 2017 to find Tim Hortons still the only viable Canadian choice for fried Dough it was with modest expectations that Oh Doughnuts was visited immediately after lunch at The Don Restaurant, the space below street level at 326 Broadway severely lacking for charm in terms of decor though service was efficient and pleasant.
Owned and operated by Baker Amanda Kinden, her goal to provide Manitoba with a better brand of Doughnut hatched in 2016 and developed since into a sustainable business that even goes so far as to recycle fryer Oil to Biofuel, it is by way of a board outside (and social media) that daily flavors are announced, some sixteen or so including several Vegan choices ranging from simple glazed rings to Chicago Popcorn Mix.
Higher priced than big chains or even local Artisan competitor Bronuts, though the use of locally sourced Organic Eggs, Flour and Butter no doubt justifies the cost, it was taking a half-dozen elsewhere that indulgence began by way of the Turtle, a soft Brioche base with plenty of spring topped in all the appropriate ingredients while the follow-up Vegan Pershing achieved a near-identical crumb structure as a coil around Cinnamon topped in tangy “Yogurt” Glaze.
Frankly shocked at the Vegan Doughnut’s texture, another Egg-and-Butterless masterpiece found in a Bismark stuffed with Dark Chocolate and topped with sugary Peanut Butter, it was transitioning back to three un-restricted Bismarks that a difference finally was noted, the base more buttery and able to stand up to diverse textures such as pureed Blackberries and creamy Key Lime, though by far the best was one called Brown Butter Banana Cheesecake that had precisely the right consistency to earn its naming and not a whole lot of added sweetness which thus let ripe Fruit flavors shine.
Perogys – Potatoes, Onions, Bothwell Medium Cheddar, Cream Gravy
Feeding downtown Winnipeg for over thirty years The Don Restaurant seems as close to an “institution” as any in the city, and with a wide-ranging menu of locally sourced items including several Mennonite specialties the spot at 120 Donald Street serves its purpose as an early-day diner respectably.
Open 7:00am until 3:30pm daily, a low building and patio tucked in amidst offices, it is just inside the entry that guests are greeted from a hostess stand, a pre-lunch arrival finding only a few tables full though by noon this would change substantially.
Favored by locals as well as travelers, the train station plus several public parking lots nearby, it was after perusal of items including everything from Kjielkje to Teriyaki that the decision was made to invest in The Don’s signature, a dish called “Crack & Hash” plus a side of Pierogis and no Dessert as they were inexplicably “all out” of Bread Pudding.
Admitting up front that Dumplings are outsourced, each of three pan-seared pockets filled with Potatoes and Cheese hand-made by Country Perogy Shop in Kleefeld, it was wishing that filling would have been a bit more flavorful that attention turned to the Hash, in reality just a pile of buttery Potatoes beneath a crispy slab of finely chopped Pork parts that tastes better when blended with Spuds plus Eggs on the side.
Located not far from St. Mary’s Cathedral, an area affectionately known as Winnipeg’s French Quarter, it was after touring the Church that the walk was made to La Belle Baguette, a time between Breakfast and Lunch finding the small Bakery quiet as staff brought forth new items from the kitchen to replenish shelves and racks.
Serving St. Boniface since 2015 and now with a second location in St. James, the Bakery’s goods also offered at a variety of local retailers, it was with a friendly smile that guests were greeted on entry, a bevy of choices creating tough decisions but the tiny female clerk happy to offer suggestions.
A place for both sweets and savories, one patron stopping by to collect Sandwiches for the office, it was opting for only the former that five items were plated and bagged, first bites of an Almond Croissant immediately causing pause as a result of cloying and excessively applied Almond Paste while a follow-up Apple Strudel Danish fared far better, though given its texture one might better label it a Sticky Bun.
Trusting next in Pate a Choux, a Cream Puff shaped like an Apple just put on display, those looking for La Belle Baguette’s best bite should not miss out on airy cream centered by stewed Fruit in dainty Pastry, though both the no-bake Bar with Date Preserves and a sticky Butter Tart enhanced by Raisins were also quite delicious.
Maple Caramel French Toast, Sliced Banana, Blueberries, Maple Caramel Sauce
With nine locations in Manitoba ranging from the suburbs to YWG Airport it seemed pertinent to stop by Stella’s at some point while in Winnipeg, the space attached to Plug In Institute of Contemporary Art proving most convenient after a stop at Jonnie’s Sticky Buns just West on Portage Avenue.
Originally opened in 1999 at 166 Osborne Street, two original investors selling their shares prior to mass expansion, it was after securing paid parking on a nearby street that doors to the Institute were opened, a rush of young adults carrying sketchbooks and poster tubes making their way to class while Stella’s Café was also quite busy to the left.
Offering an up-front Pastry case and dining room beyond, a brief wait at the hostess stand followed by seating at a cozy two-top flanked on both sides by students, it was after briefly perusing options that two selections were made, the first a classic Canadian Butter Tart that tasted good but seemed to have been previously frozen based on both temperature and texture of its sugary center.
Taking a lengthy wait as an opportunity to indulge in still-warm Buns from Jonnie’s, all three magnificent, it was perhaps twenty minutes before French Toast was delivered as three thin slices topped in runny Syrup, the Bread itself no better than store-purchased while Pure Maple Syrup would have been preferred to the “Caramel Sauce,” though at least the tiny Wild Blueberries bursting with flavor were enjoyable.
Into the Woods Sticky Bun with Apple, Blueberry, Toasted Sunflower Seeds, Hemp Hearts
One need not look too closely in order to realize Northerners are obsessed with Sticky Buns, an associate from North Dakota repeatedly claiming his “Ma’s are the best,” and having already tasted celebrated versions from The Buttered Tin as well as Isles Bun & Coffee it was during a cold and rainy morning while in Winnipeg that Jonnie’s Sticky Buns outperformed them both.
Still sort of a hidden gem despite feeding the people of Winnipeg for nearly a decade, the small Bakery and Restaurant at 941 Portage Avenue additionally providing their Classic to several local businesses, it was easily allocating parking behind the store at 8:00am that cozy confines were found, just one sever and two patrons busily chatting about the news but pausing briefly to answer questions and make a sale.
Taking the still-warm bag just two kilometers away to enjoy, Jonnie’s limited seating and inclement weather eliminating the possibility of immediate indulgence, it was with the Car perfumed by Cinnamon that expectations inched upward, a first taste of tangy Cream Cheese Icing atop a golden swirl containing Carrots and Ginger as delicious as it was fragrant while the “Classic” offered for just $2.75 Canadian outperformed smaller Buns sold in Minnesota (for twice as much) thanks to plenty of sticky Caramel.
Saving halves of each for later, Microwave rewarming not compromising taste in any way though Toppings obviously became runny, it was finally as Dessert after Breakfast that “Into the Woods” had its opportunity to impress, and boy did it ever thanks to the heterogeneity of Fruits and Seeds plus plenty of Butter but restrained sweetness.
Not know as a destination city for dining, or really much but wildlife and hockey based on research while planning a three day visit, it was around 8:00pm on Wednesday that walk-in availability was found at Winnipeg’s deer + almond, one of only two Manitoba Restaurants on Canada’s “Top 100” in addition to Segovia which would be experienced the following evening.
Located downtown near the Exchange District, a low-slung building amidst modest skyscrapers easily found as it appears to be the only inhabited space in the area after dark, guests approaching deer + almond will start to notice the thump of bass from some three meters out, the opening of doors immediately telling of just what sort of “experience” the Restaurant is trying to create.
Toqued by Chef Mandel Hitzer and considered avant-garde for Winnipeg, the menu best described as fusion and presented as “Tapas” by servers, it was immediately upon seating in a room built for 68 but holding just seven that specials were described, the server pleasant but unpolished as she recited directly from a blackboard clearly visible to the left.
Certainly no place for those skeptical about big flavors or loud sounds, thumping Rap seemingly growing louder as time progressed, it was with a small bowl of heavily-seasoned Popcorn and Water that nearly twenty minutes passed before the arrival of requested plates, the first a tangle of charred Carrots whose intrinsic sweetness found balance in Hazelnut Butter and grated Cheese plus crunchy specks of Granola while earthy Celeriac thankfully took a backseat.
Deciding next amongst diverse items ranging from Soba to Weiner Schnitzel, Mandel’s German first name which translates to Almond explaining both the Restaurant’s name and dish, it was mostly childhood memories of Walleye that led to a selection of Pickerel amidst umami, the Grits a bit watery on their own but a nice contrast to Pumpkin and Pickled Vegetables plus lightly spiced Cheese.
Intentionally saving room for Dessert, the meager Canadian Dollar offering three choices at bargain prices, it was on the Waitress’ recommendation that “From the Earth” was selected, a blend of textures and flavors befitting early Autumn proving better than both savories largely on the strength of an elegant Pavlova and creamy housemade Pumpkin Ice Cream.
Poutine – Hand Cut Fries, Shredded Cheese Curds, Brown Gravy
Arriving in Winnipeg just past 4pm, the drive from Minneapolis shorter than expected even when accounting for a stop in Fargo, it was immediately to The Forks Market that a path was made, an unanticipated political debate leaving limited paid parking though security was fairly lax and all businesses remained open.
Considered one of Manitoba’s few must-visit attractions, its location at the junction of Red and Assiniboine Rivers relevant to the city’s development while the Food Hall now inhabiting the space sees some five million visitors annually, it was after perusing Coffee, Pastries and several ethnic eateries that Fergie’s Fish and Chips was found, the space serving locally caught Fish since 2004 not particularly busy and the two men working just as pleasant as can be.
Expectedly limited in scope, Winnipeg’s take on the British tradition additionally offering specialties such as Soup, Fish Curry and Deep-fried Desserts, it was after gauging hunger and portions that the decision was made to stick with classics, both Walleye and Cod breaded and fried to order with a crisp and oilless bite that went nicely with both house Tatar Sauce and more traditional Malt Vinegar.
Not especially Canadian without Poutine, the twice-fried hand-cut Fries also available naked or with Fish Curry and Cheese, suffice it to say that using shredded instead of whole Curds was a unique choice that offered more melt but less textural juxtaposition and although preference still leans toward chunks of Cheese the Gravy was simple, rich and precisely as it should be.
