Formally known as Antico Forno Delle Sfogliatelle Calde Fratelli Attanasio (The Attanasio Brothers’ Antique Bakery of Hot Sfogliatelle,) Sfogliatelle Attanasio is considered by many to serve the best Sfogliatelle in Napoli, their delivery straight from a warm oven highlighting both Sfogliatelle Riccia (curly) and Sfogliatelle Frolla (shortcrust) while other Pastries adhered to an equally high standard.
No frills by nature, the entrance on Vico Ferrovia giving way to a lengthy space without seating, it is before setting foot inside that the smell of Yeast and Sugar fills nostrils, an antique oven visibly filled with warm Pastries while a kitchen to the left sees Bakers at work with more modern equipment.
No seating, just a heavily-inked server working diligently to keep pace with steady foot-traffic, it was with good fortune that Friday morning in January did not find the typical 30-minute queue, guests rather exchanging just €7.30 for four items and taking them outside to eat while scooters zipped by.
Perched upon a concrete girder, three-quarters of the items warm to touch, it was after quickly snapping photos that teeth shattered through “little leaves,” Sfogliatella Riccia yielding a lighter-than-usual blend of Ricotta and Cream with subtle sweetness punctuated by occasional bits of Citrus.
Featuring the same Filling inside Frolla, Attanasio’s Shortcrust even more buttery than Carraturo’s original, fans of Baba will find the Santa Rosa-style prominently displayed and soaked with sugary Syrup while Ricotta Pie sold by slice rather than weight is generous and exemplary with a thicker consistency than either Sfogliatelle.
Pizza Margherita Sbagliata – Mozzarella di Bufala Campana DOP, Cooked Tomato Sauce, Basil Reduction, Extra Virgin Olive Oil / Pizza Scarpetta – Mozzarella di Bufala Campana DOP, Fondue of 12-month Grana Padano DOP, Raw Tomato Compote, Freeze Dried Basil, Chips of 24-month Grana Padano DOP
Pizza Grana Pepe e Fantasia – Fondue of 12-month Grana Padano DOP, Smoked Scamorza Cheese, Pasteurized Egg Yolk, Smoked Bacon, Pecorino Romano on the Cornicione, Chips of 24-month Grana Padano DOP, Pepper, Lime Zest / Pizza Salsiccia e Broccoli – Pork Sausage from Caserta, Broccoli, Fior di Latte, Smoked Scamorza Cheese, Extra Virgin Olive Oil
Pizza la Ritrovata – San Marzano DOP Tomato Sauce, Piennolo del Vesuvio, Dehydrated Capers, Caiazzane Black Olives Powder, Cetara Anchovies, Garlic Oil, Fried Basil / Pizza Ragu di Carne – San Marzano DOP Tomato Sauce stewed with Meatballs, Pine Nuts, Fior di Latte, Toasted Bread
La Crisommola Dal Vesuvio – Lemon-flavored Ricotta di Bufala, Vesuvius Apricot Jam, Toasted Hazelnuts, Black Olive Crumble, Fresh Mint
As a third-generation Baker and repeat recipient of “Best Pizza in the World” accolades the name Franco Pepe carries significant weight, and in the small town of Caiazzo, just one hour from Naples, he and his team showed precisely why gourmands travel globally to experience his skill and ideas plus the sort of service many Michelin-starred Restaurants would be lucky to have.
A destination in Compania since 2012, Chefs and critics singing the praises of a three-story space located down a narrow alley, it is strongly recommended that guests secure seats up to sixty days in advance, because although walk-ins are available they are almost universally subject to a substantial wait.
Made more popular recently by Netflix “Ugly Delicious,” but largely unaffected according to regulars who suggest Franco Pepe has always chased faultlessness rather than fame, it was with reservations confirmed at 19h00 that two diners were led upstairs after a fifty-minute drive from Napoli, Pepe having taken a quick break to touch tables before returning to the kitchen made visible through closed-circuit television.
A destination in the era of accessibility, names like Sorbillo and Da Michele expanding across oceans, Pepe’s approach embraces both terroir and season, a hyper-attentive focus on sourcing virtually guaranteeing no two Pies are identical even though the kitchen works with speed, skill and precision.
Honoring his father and grandfather with classic offerings, all while pushing forward with ideas that challenge conventional thoughts regarding “Neapolitan” Pizza, it is from a surprisingly affordable Food & Beverage list that diners are invited to self-select, though the Degustazione typically reserved for parties of four can be made available for two if rrequested.
Promoting Slow Food ideals, and highly efficient in terms of service, it was with a €32 bottle of Bubbly poured that course one arrived, Pepe’s now-iconic “Colpo Doppio” eating much like Montanara filled with a fragrant blend of Herbs and Cheese while a beautifully-leavened bits of Dough proved even better beneath a “rose” of Mortadella, Ricotta and Pistachio.
An impassioned Chef, speaking fluently in both English and Italian when engaging with diners, it was as Franco stood tableside that his “Mystic” Margherita was delivered, the use of cooked Tomatoes and concentrated Basil better-focusing flavor while the Pie’s “Scarpetta” half used similar Ingredients to achieve an effect that permeates the sinuses while treating the palate to a diversity of textures.
Using only products from nearby farms, Bacon and Eggs from “just down the road” featured on the Pizza Grana Pepe e Fantasia which riffs on Carbonara while adding grated-Pecorino Romano to the Cornicione, it was from the “seasonal” Pizzas that Sausage and Broccoli was served, seasoned Pork from Caserta playing well off the smoked Cheese and lightly charred Crucifer.
Asked about capacity at this point, and happy to say that Pepe’s hand-blended Flour from Bari digests without making one feel overly full, a third Pizza focused on big flavors, “la Ritrovata” packing a ton of brine by way of Capers, Olives and Anchovies while an off-menu special described by Franco used the Sauce of Tomatoes stewed with Meatballs to impart an impressive degree of unctuousness to the half made texturally explosive with Pine Nuts and Bread Crumbs.
Likely able to enjoy another Pie, but worried that Dessert might then be missed, it was much like the beginning that Pepe in Grani ended with a duo, Zeppole far lighter than any experienced prior and not overly-sweet while “La Crisommola Dal Vesuvio” replicated the Viandante’s base with toppings that touched every part of the palate with lingering tartness.
With several locations across Napoli, the most well-known on Via Toledo, Casa Infante is celebrated for thick Gelato made from seasonal ingredients, and thanks to high-fat Cream plus organic Eggs the texture may just be the city’s smoothest.
A part of Naples Food scene since the 1940s, and now in its third generation, Casa Infante began as purveyors of Almond & Pepper Tarallo, but having since grown wise to global trends the family now plies its trade in Pastry and Ice Cream.
Recognizable by branding, a push-cart selling Baba parked out front, it is immediately upon entry that guests’ eyes widen at some three-dozen flavors, classics present alongside decidedly “American” flavors like Oreo and more unique ideas such as Vesuvius Apricot Cake.
Served in a variety of Cones, or even Brioche, it seems prudent for first-timers to invest in tradition, and although the “Pastiera” flavor was expectedly sweet it still maintained balance thanks to its richness while Pistachio and Nougat offered some textural heterogeneity and more subtlety.
Montanara – Ragu Napoletano, Pecorino Romano Cheese, Basil
Pizza Tetti Illuminati – Fior di Latte Campano, Fiori di Mortadella, Crumbled Pistachio, Pistachio Cream, Shaved Pecorino Romano
Pizza Abbraccio e Mamma – Mozzarella di Bufala DOP, Classic Meatballs, Cheese Fondue, Extra Virgin Olive Oil, Cornicione stuffed with Ricotta
Although Napoli’s “true” Pizza, the Margherita, was born in 1889 there has been something of a revolution over the past decade, and at Pizzeria Vincenzo Capuano the fourth generation Pizzaiolo has continued to push past rigid VPN guidelines with what many call “Cloud” style.
Located at Piazza Vittoria 8, within eye-shot of the water in Naples’ Mergellina district, guests will find Capuano’s Pizzeria occupying a tiny corner, and open from 12h00 through 16h00 and 19h00 to midnight daily the availability of online reservations allows for minimal wait before seating.
Regarded as sacrilege by purists, but bolstered by Caputo’s newest Neapolitan Flour, it is with respect for tradition that 30-year old Vincenzo has taken note of global trends to produce an entirely unique Pie, the “Nuvola” base high in both Fiber as well as minerals which allows for easier digestibility and a more pronounced flavor.
Fermented for just over 24-hours, but developing a unique softness that takes well to char without becoming bitter, a good way to first experience the base is fried, Capuano’s Dough forming glass-like bubbles with inherent sweetness like a Croissant that pairs well to slow-cooked Ragu, Cheese and Basil.
Embracing the high expectations of his family name, but unafraid to take chances, a look at Vincenzo’s list of Pizzas runs the gamut from classic to New Age, and no matter what one selects Ingredient quality comes first and foremost, the “Tetti Illuminati” a textural masterpiece marrying Mortadella to Pistachios while Pizza Abbraccio e Mamma puts handmade Meatballs inside a Cornicione stuffed with Ricotta before drizzling the whole Pie with Fondue.
Montanara – Casa Marrazzo Tomato Sugo, 24-month Parmigiano Reggiano DOP, Extra Virgin Olive Oil DOP
Pizza 50 Kalò – Fresh Datterini Tomatoes, Steamed Escarole, Garlic, Caiazzane Black Olives, Capers from Salvatore D’Amico Agrobiological Company, Extra Virgin Olive Oil DOP from Irpinia Hills
Pizza Finta Carbonara – Agerola Fior di Latte, Hens’ Eggs Raised Outdoors and Nourished with Natural Products, Diced Irpina Bacon, Black Pepper, 24-month Parmigiano Reggiano DOP
As a third generation Pizzaiolo, Ciro Salvo is best known for his super-hydrated dough, and at 50 Kalò an exceptionally light Crust without much char is married to exceptional ingredients for a Pizza that has not only been named Naples best, but also the best in all of Europe (outside Italy) for its London incarnation.
Originally opened in February 2014, and challenging convention at that time by attempting to transform Pizza from a humble dish into something gourmet, 50 Kalò resides in Napoli’s Mergellina district, and outside tourist-central Salvo’s skill can frequently be found without the extensive queue common at da Michele or Sorbillo.
Taking a scientific look at his Dough, low Protein, high hydration and staged fermentation creating the pronounced cornicione around a center less sloppy than “traditional” Neapolitan Pies, it is seated amidst modern confines that guests are offered a variety of choices, Beer and Natural Wines occupying a whole separate menu.
Called the World’s 3rd best by 50 Top Pizza, a meticulous approach to Ingredient sourcing detailed across Fritti and Pizza, it was after considerable debate that a Fried Pie was selected to start, 50 Kalò’s slow-cooked Sugo a beautiful balance of sweetness and acidity that is nicely complimented by a snow-like dusting of aged Parmigiano Reggiano.
Utilizing Olive Oil from Irpinia Hills, plus the same Eggs featured at Michelin 2 and 3 star Restaurants in Rome, it was once all four of the Montanara’s delicate slices were consumed that two uncut-Pizzas arrived, the eponymous 50 Kalò a Cheese-less lesson in top-quality Produce while Finta Carbonara recreated the iconic Pasta’s flavor profile atop a hint of Yeast and smoke.
Located near Porta Capuana, one of the oldest entrances to the city of Naples, L’Antica Pasticceria Carraturo has been in operation since 1837, and although founder Pietro Carraturo has long since passed his recipes live on in the form of a diverse collection of Pastries currently overseen by descendent Ulderico.
Easily accessible from Napoli Centrale, and best known as one of Naples’ most traditional Pasticceria, Carraturo opens its doors beginning at 06h30 Tuesday through Sunday, a diverse collection including several items no longer sold elsewhere available though Sfogliatelle remain the most popular choice by far.
Producing Naples “little leaves” by the hundreds daily, and reportedly the birthplace of Sfogliatella Frolla which places Ricotta Cream inside a Shortcrust originally intended for “common people” unable to afford the better-known Sfogliatella Riccia, it is from Carraturo’s elder oven that each warm Pastry is served, a cost of €1.50 amongst the city’s cheapest despite unparalleled taste and texture.
Built on tradition, at least six-dozen additional Pastries made on-site daily, guests will also find a full bar and Espresso offered inside L’Antica Pasticceria Carraturo L-shaped interior, the Torrone delightful with prominent Almond notes while Mostacciolo Duro is something like the consistency of Honeycomb dipped in a rigid Dark Chocolate shell.
Confusing with Sapienza, a seemingly inedible Biscuit that actually drew blood on second-attempt to chew, it was setting this aside that Carraturo’s Baba proved unforgettable thanks to Limoncello Frosting, while both styles Sfogliatelle made fans immediately want to apply for Italian citizenship and move in next door.
Handed down from one generation to the next in Corso Garibaldi, Pasticceria Bellavita (or Bellavita Srl Bar Pasticceria) is a historic Pastry Shop along one of Naples’ busiest commuter corridors, and frequented mostly by locals it is lining several shelves that guests will find items largely rooted in tradition.
More sizable than the average Neapolitan Pasticceria, and recently renovated such that the interior appears modern with comfortable seating, it is from at least sixty Pastries ranging sweet to savory that guests are encouraged to choose beginning at 06h00, some sold by weight but most including a weighty Turnover filled with Pork and Cheese a very good deal.
Said to celebrate street food, many locals downing a shot of Espresso and exiting with Cornetti wrapped in a napkin, fans of the Italian’s idea of Croissant will find two sizes to choose from, a large with Apricot Jam pleasing but a bit too moist while specimens filled with Panna and Chocolate-Hazelnut Spread were better.
Also enjoying Nutella at the center of a Sandwich Cookie, its Pistachio counterpart equally well-crafted, fans of Poppella’s Fiocco will find Pasticceria Bellavita’s slightly less dainty while their Sfogliatelle comes crisp with plenty of candied Orange making for a particularly tangy center.
Pizza Margherinara – San Marzano DOP Pomodoro, Mozzarella di Bufala DOP, Vesuvius Piennolo Tomatoes, Oregano, Basil, Extra Virgin Olive Oil
Pizza Cianfotta – Fior di Latte Agreola, Chiodini Mushrooms, Peppers, Potatoes, Rapini, Sundried Tomatoes, Basil, Extra Virgin Olive Oil
Considered underrated by many at #21 on the 50 Top Pizza list, it was only after finding the Bagnoli location unexpectedly closed on Wednesday that a quick re-route led the car a few kilometers west, to the suburb of Pozzuoli where Diego Vitagliano’s original eponymous Restaurant opens its upscale dining room to guests daily.
Neapolitan born in 1985, and a relative newcomer to decades of tradition, Vitagliano has been called one of Italy’s most promising young Pizzaiolos, a respect for tradition but eye towards modernity that quickly developed a following thanks to extensive research and dedication to nothing but the best Ingredients.
Titling both Pizzerias 10 Diego Vitagliano, the Corso Umberto I 167 address featuring coastal views, most guests can expect to encounter a wait unless they have reservations, the line even present at 21h00 on a weekday but seating for at least one hundred guaranteeing the queue moves quickly.
An ardent proponent of local-sourcing, prices ranging €6-10 an undeniable bargain for Pizzas topped in DOP Cheeses, Cilento Olive Oil and Produce grown by respected family farms, it is after navigating a collection of Fritti that Diego’s famous Dough is divided into four sections including Montanara, Marinara, Daisy and Jodhpurs – or “baggy.”
Only offering menus in Italian, but assisted by English-fluent service, dining begins perhaps ten minutes after ordering, a ball of Black Rice first enlivening the palate with a juxtaposition of flavors ranging from salty Capers and Olives to sweet spots with Raisins.
Offering whole fried Pizzas, but suggesting more variety through the “Tris di Montanarine” Appetizer, it is on top of three golden puffs that Vitagliano’s trio of Sauces are ladled, the Genovese potent with Onions and arguably even better than pure Marinara or slowly-simmered Beef Ragu.
Not waiting long for the main event, two ovens and five Pizzaiolos in constant motion throughout a sixty minute stay, it is atop a base of Flour from Lombardy that 10 Diego Vitagliano places an assortment of Ingredients, a process developed by the University of Bologna creating a more fiber-rich product that is nutty with good stretch and impressively light after a two-day ferment.
Encircled by a raft-like cornicione, toasty but not tasting of char, the decision to request one Pie sauced and the other without came after much debate, yet no matter how one cuts or divides it both the Margherinara brightened by Piennolo Tomatoes and Cianfotta with a mélange of Vegetables were dazzling in terms of texture as well as taste.
Known for lengthy lines and its eponymous family, Pizzeria Da Oliva Concettina ai Tre Santi is the star of chaotic Sanità, and although Pizzas honed across generations for nearly 70 years are inspired and enjoyable a combination of service gaffs viewed within Naples otherwise outstanding Pizza culture made for a somewhat lackluster experience.
Situated at the ancient city’s chaotic core, and currently directed by Pizzaiolo Ciro Oliva, it was just prior to 19h00 that two guests found Concettina ai Tre Santi nearly empty, a surprising situation leading to immediate seating adjacent a family of three including a particularly unruly child.
Greeted pleasantly, but then ignored by staff who appeared to be engaged in a service meeting-turned-argument, it was after lengthy perusal of English-friendly menus that decisions were made, the arrival of Pizza Margherita less than 90-seconds later a surprise, particularly as it belonged to the other table.
Having requested two Fritti plus a pair of Pizzas and Water, it was as staff continued to shout that Ciro could be watched at work, the fourth generation Baker diligently stretching Dough over a wood paddle while another Chef manned the fryer.
Receiving “Big Montanara” first, no Water or Genovese Omelette to be found, the quality of Antonio Oliva’s Dough becomes apparent immediately, the disc’s placement atop meaty Ragu, Basil and Cheese encouraging scarpetta until every last bite is gone.
Well known for arduous Ingredient sourcing, the fact that most of Concettina ai Tre Santi’s Pizzas sell for just €8 surprising considering this fact, it was still without Water on the table that two Pizzas arrived simultaneously, one with a Salami-stuffed cornicione benefiting the San Gennaro Foundation with proceeds and diners through vibrant Tomatoes, Smoked Provola and Tarallo Crumbs.
Guiding Concettina ai Tre Santi into the future with Pizza “a canotto,” but remaining rooted in history through classics handed down from Ciro’s great-grandmother, it was finally after 75% of the Pizza was gone that a bottle of Acqua Panna arrived, a situation never really explained but stricken from the bill after the 3-in-1 Concettina highlighted by a folded pocket of crisp Pork was finished.
Fiocco Pistachio, Fiocco Chocolate, Fiocco Vanilla, Aragosta Chocolate, Baba au Rum, Baba Crema
Sfogliatella
Best known for their signature Fiocco, Pasticceria Poppella was born in Naples around 1920, and still family owned in the Rione Sanità Neighborhood it seems as though Ciro Poppella and Salvatore Scognamillo’s brand has rarely slowed but only become more popular following renovations that make the store stand out from crowded surroundings.
Held in high regard by Neapolitans, and equally famous with tourists, it is at Via Arena della Sanita’ 24 that visitors will find bright lights from 06h00 to 22h00 daily, staff the perpetually smiling sort with English fluency that makes ordering easy.
A full-service eatery with al fresco seating, it is across tiered-shelves that Poppella’s good are displayed, usual suspects such as Cannoli and Tiramisu offered alongside Loaves of Bread, Entremets and Viennoiserie.
Not a place for the indecisive, though fair prices and smaller-sized versions of Pastries such as Lobster Tails full of Chocolate allow guests to order a variety, it was in exchange for €10.90 that seven items were plated and served alongside Espresso, both Baba gone in two-bites and the one soaked in boozy Syrup less sweet than many.
Of course serving Sfogliatella, though not warm-to-order like Napoli’s best, it was once shattering layers were separated and citrusy Ricotta consumed that Fiocco di Neve took center-stage, the “Snowflake” introduced around 2001 surprisingly light despite Fillings of Pastry Cream and Cheese in a variety of flavors from which the original Vanilla reigned supreme.
Aracini, Frittatina di Pasta di Gragnano with Povolone and Prosciutto Cotto, Provoloa Impanta
Pizza Bufala – Mozzarella di Bufala Capana DOP, Pomodoro San Marzano DOP, Basil, Extra Virgin Olive Oil
Pizza PINK – Artisan Gorganzola Fondue, Fior di Latte, Salame Rosa, Zucchini Chips, Extra Virgin Olive Oil
On May 23rd, at the 50 Top Pizza Italy 2019 announcements in Naples, legendary Pizzaiolo Franco Pepe suddenly found himself tied for first, the name Francesco Martucci of I Masanielli in Caserta suddenly occupying the same rare air that Pepe in Grani had breathed alone for the previous two years.
Known best as the home of Mozzarella Di Bufala, Caserta is the capital of the province of Caserta in the Campania region of Italy, and located just 30 minutes by car from Napoli I Masanielli can be found at Viale Giulio Douhet 11 where Martucci operate two ovens responsible for producing some nine hundred Pizzas per day in addition to Salads and Fritti.
Not to be mistaken for similarly-named I Masanielli da Sasa Martucci, also in Caserta and owned by his brother, Francesco Martucci’s Pizzeria is a large space with good lighting and a sizable Bar near the door, a collection of local Beer and Wine offered at fair prices to compliment I Masanielli’s culinary creations.
Beginning as a young boy at his uncle’s Pizzeria in Caserta, first running errands before learning to shape Dough as a teen, Martucci can still be found on the line daily with his staff, this day stretching Pies and also expediting orders that entail approximately one Pizza leaving the kitchen every sixty seconds.
Opened in September 2017, the Pizza style self-defined as “very mine,” it is while waiting that guests are invited to snack on fried items including faultless Rice Balls and housemade Pasta, even the €1 Cheese Stick far better than usual thanks to locally produced Provolone.
Contemporary from start to finish, and using a long-fermented blend of Flour to create Pizzas “a canotto,” one will quickly notice a slight nuttiness and hints of smoke from Martucci’s Crust, it’s lightness largely unrivaled despite nearly-Montanara crispness that is best-appreciated simply with fresh Tomatoes, Basil and local Mozzarella.
Nothing short of a rags-to-riches story, I Masanielli’s success continues thanks to creativity and obsessiveness, every Pizza including the now-famous “Riccia di Mammà” accounting for balance, but perhaps none more than Pizza “Pink” with Gorganzola Fondue and Fior di Latte laying the groundwork for drapes of Salame Rosa and crispy Zucchini added after exiting the oven.
On an unassuming corner in Trastevere one finds Il Maritozzaro, and since 1960 this independently-owned Bar has dedicated itself to Rome’s signature Pastry while maintaining nondescript hours that usually find the place open from 06h30 until past midnight every day but Monday.
Not far from Stazione Trastevere, a no-frills appearance in a residential neighborhood assuring minimal tourist traffic, it is upon entry that Il Maritozzaro reveals itself as little more than 200 square meters, a lone table seeing most guests belly to the Bar downing Espresso shots before departing with a Pastry in their hand.
Apparently hopping late-night, but also with a steady stream of traffic en route to work, most guests predictably select Il Maritozzaro’s eponymous Pastry, the split-top Bun that was once the only sweet allowed during Lent nearly over-loaded with Cream just as it has been since the Middle ages.
Moving beyond Maritozzi, its subtle sweetness seeing the substantial portion eat lighter than one might expect, those seeking something more sugary should consider a Peach-shaped Biscuit sandwiching Custard while an unlabeled asterisk with Raisins and glaze shows Il Maritozzaro to also perform well with laminated Pastry.
Not about to forgo Sfogliatelle, tight layers shattering to the tooth before yielding citrusy Ricotta, a rounded Torta Caprese finished the morning with a slightly dry crumb but plenty of Cocoa suspended in the bittersweet matrix.
Ricotta Chestnut Tart / Apricot and Amarena Cherry Tart
Fruit Tart / Torta della Nonna / Crème Patisserie Aragosta
Castagnole Crema
Renovated in 2007, but minimally changed in terms of recipes dating to 1931, Andreotti remains an iconic Patisserie in the Gambero Rosso section of Rome, even finding itself on the list of “Shops of Historical Interest” as published by the Eternal City’s Capital Administration.
Open from 07h30 until 24h00 daily, an elegant space at Via Ostiense 54 turning from Pasticceria to Bar as the day marches on, guests arriving early can expect to find shelves lined with Desserts, Cakes and Pastries currently produced under the guidance of Marco Andreotti.
Dating to Grandparents Bruno and Ada Andreotti, whose traditions can be seen in pictures throughout the Eatery, it is after lengthy perusal that guests must make choices, a situation made easier by sized-down Tarts so that a wider variety can be tasted.
Also offering limited savories and Ice Cream, it was in exchange for €9.40 that a Lobster Tail, four Tarts and an equal number of Castagnole were carried to a table, the fried Dough so light it could have very well been baked around the ethereal white Crema.
Next sampling Andreotti’s Aragosta, a Pastry Cream filling with lots of Sugar quickly flooding the palate, it was with more subtlety that Torta della Nonna stood out thanks to lemony Egg Yolk Custard and a few grams of Pine Nuts.
Replacing Pinoli with Grapes and Melon to make a Fruit Tart, with other items featuring Kiwi or Berries, it was thanks to thick Jam that a Apricot and Amarena Cherry Tart performed well, though the same Crust filled with Ricotta Cheese and Chestnuts mostly stole the spotlight.
Reportedly Rome’s oldest continuously-functional Ice Cream Parlor, Giolitti has been serving guests since 1890, and although Giuseppe and Bernardina passed away several years ago their name still carries on through family operating two locations, one in E.U.R. and the flagship on via Uffici del Vicario near the Pantheon.
Almost unmistakable as some of Rome’s towering churches, its single-story floor plan covering easily a thousand square-meters from dining room to Bar, freezers and Pastry cases, it was around 22h30 that Giolitti was found empty, throngs of tourists now gone and service operating in a perfunctory manner as though customers were an unexpected interruption.
Producing both Ice Cream and Food on-site, and reportedly adherent to the same recipes passed down from one generation to the next, it was upon perusal that four flavors separated themselves from others, Pistachio as well as Dark Cherry each creamy and natural while Torrone was expectedly sweet.
Less impressed by Pomegranate Sorbet, assertive sours and an icy base seeing several licks discarded, Pastry was also hit-and-miss with the Ricotta Cake dried out and Sfogliatella soggy while a Tart with Cream and Pine nuts was deliciously subtle.
Although Chef Alba Esteve Ruiz left Marzapane in 2018 the Restaurant at Via Velletri 39 has persevered, and guided by the vision of Chef Francesco Capuzzo Dolcetta, Marzapane now proposes a seasonal menu full of bold flavors at a fair price whether one selects the €50-to-€65 tasting or a la carte options.
A Michelin Guide Restaurant, though not currently starred, it is in a Scandinavian-leaning dining room that guests are seated starting at 19h30, the kitchen visible through glass pristine and well-appointed with everything from flat-tops to a Big Green Egg.
Best defined as a Trattoria, but more avant-garde than many of Rome’s time-tested Restaurants, a quick look at the menu shows several classics alongside more experimental plates, the willingness to test boundaries without eschewing history easily appreciated by those seeking something a little different.
Situated a good distance from tourist attractions, and thus a largely locals destination, diners can still expect English-friendly service, Water plus well-priced Wine getting things started alongside complimentary Focaccia and Marzapane’s daily “Gastronomia” consisting of handmade Ox Tongue Headcheese, Grilled Eel, Pork Meatballs and Sheep’s Cheese.
A sizable starter, though that is not to say primi or secondi skimp in terms of portion, Pastas next arrived in two rounds, the Rigatoni slick with Eggs and Pork Cheek a peerless specimen while Candela Spezzata “alla Genovese” took a backseat to more compelling Corzetto with Eel and Ginger plus Capellino that marries melted Beef Fat with a hint of Licorice.
Selecting wild-shot Duck to share, three nearly-raw slices defiantly standing alongside smashed Potatoes and reduced Game Jus, Dessert followed as a trio, Quince Confit atop dry Bread texturally odd but nicely flavored while Custard-soaked Brioche and aromatic Crème Caramel each stepped away from the traditional Trattoria with stunning results.
Although Birra de Borgo is well known for their fermented Hops, brewed just outside the Italian capitol, a more recent development is the opening of L’Osteria di Birra de Borgo just a short distance from Vatican City.
Occupying Via Silla 26a since 2018, and part of a slow transition whereby Prati is growing a gastronomic culture beyond fast food targeting tourists, it is beginning at 12h00 that guests are welcomed to a spacious room including kitchen, bar and microbrewery plus English-friendly service.
Happy to accept online reservations, though largely unnecessary throughout most of a day that extends until 02h00, it is once seated amidst spacious confines that guests are invited to decide amongst several Bottles and Taps, while Food remains “Bar” friendly without cutting corners.
Reserving some items for dinner, but serving most of their menu from open to close, many diners will likely gravitate to Fritti, low prices nevertheless a poor excuse for Suppli that was too dense and oily, not to mention flaccid Roast Potatoes that probably would be better off fried.
Improving substantially with Breads, a brand familiar with fermentation predictably utilizing their own Yeast to develop everything on site, it is not till later that Pizzas and Calzone are available, which leaves diners at lunch a tough decision between sandwiched “Antifocaccia” with an assortment of toppings or Teglia – Roman Pan Pizza – that crackles to the tooth before yielding its pillow-soft upper layer.
With Gabriele Bonci now known stateside thanks to his Chicago Pizzeria, it was less than three hours after breakfast at Panificio Bonci that Pizzarium was found packed, a Food Tour full of English speakers entering just moments after 11h00 as staff showed great poise keeping up with the sudden high-traffic.
Made famous by television, while proximity to The Vatican Museums creates a diverse clientele, it is immediately upon entry that gusts will notice over a dozen varieties of Pizza filling the counter of a postage-stamp space that looks to be around 500 square feet.
Mostly built for takeaway, and using Bonci’s signature blend of cold-fermented Heirloom Wheat to create a Crust that is light and chewy atop a crackling base, it is highly advisable to take two looks and ask questions before ordering, though considering the Ingredient quality there is like no “wrong” choice.
Sold by the kilogram, but affordable enough that all but the largest appetite will be satisfied for less than €10, those looking to eat right away are encouraged to order Suppli while Pizza is heated, both classic Marinara with cheesy Rice and a version with fiery ‘Nduja performing well despite prices that are a little higher than those of less well-known Reestaurants.
Offering everything from Meat to Vegetables, Fruit or Nuts atop the slices, and varying options throughout the day, those looking for one of Rome’s brightest bites will want to sink their teeth into Sundried Tomatoes atop creamy Ricotta while carnivores with a more sophisticated palate will undoubtedly appreciate the beautiful balance achieved by Coppa on a bed of melted Leeks.
Now available via franchising, but a part of Rome for thirty-five years, Old Bridge Gelato plays a prominent role in a day at The Vatican for many, its frequently-long line best circumvented via early-morning or late-evening arrival.
Located at Viale Bastioni di Michelangelo 5, Vatican City walls looming just across the street, it is from this seatless storefront that guests are offered thirty daily flavors, nothing too esoteric but all bases built from fresh Fruits and good Italian Organic Dairy.
The product of two artisans, their original handmade approach since streamlined by “cutting edge machines,” it is without preservatives, artificial colors are stabilizers that Old Bridge Gelato’s texture finds itself nearly soft-serve creamy, and although Pistachio lacked the intensity of other Roman shops both the Chocolate-flecked 5tracciatella and Biscotto fared just fine.
With Gabriele Bonci now making his name known stateside a decision to visit the Bakery at Via Trionfale 36 came easily, and although Pizzarium rightfully gets a lot of press Panificio Bonci flies happily under the radar today just as it has since opening in November 2012.
A part of Rome’s Trionfale district, easy walking distance from Vatican City but far enough away to not be inundated by tourists, it is even before entering that the smell of yeast is noted, early arrival still finding employees stocking shelves with an assortment of sweet and savory selections.
Offering everything from Suppli to Roast Chicken, in addition to Bonci’s celebrated Pizette, it is only after thorough perusal that decisions should be made, several Cakes weighed to price tempting but probably best saved for parties of four or more.
Open from 08h30 every day but Sunday, with a menu that shifts from morning to night, Breakfast should undoubtedly include one of Panificio Bonci’s all-natural Cornetti, in this particular case the version with Honey and Oats infusing an airy base of heritage Flour.
Always ingredient focused, Pizette come as small rounds with a chew like Focaccia and Bonci’s signature Potato topping should not be missed, though neither should the weighty and moist “Cheesecake” that one-ups New York-style by using Ricotta that is lightly browned atop a Jam-like layer of Cherries.
Located In Prati since 1927, Antonini has achieved a strong local following thanks to its broad range of Pastries and savory plates, plus a bar program that begins at 07h00 with Coffee and extends to 21h00 with a variety of Aperitifs.
Tucked amongst businesses not far from The Vatican, a lengthy space on via Sabotino creating a lot of curb appeal despite the narrow and noisy interior, first time visitors will need a few moments to acclimate to fast pacing and unlabeled items, staff only fluent in Italian adding another layer of difficulty for non-natives.
Diverse in selection, with smaller sizes of several Pastries allowing guests to sample a wide variety, it was in exchange for €8 that five items were taken outside to eat, the Bombolini unfortunately besieged with moisture and nearly moist as Antonini’s Baba.
Next tasting a two-bite Maritozzi, its haphazard appearance matched by Sponge and Cream lacking flavor, Sfogliatella was also compromised by not enough Citrus while a Cassata Cake was only propped up by the flavor of its mixed Berries.
