Scheduled to pick up a car and head north at 14h00 it was with bags packed at the Airbnb that Breakfast once again became a three-part tour, stop number one at Kafé Esaias proving fairly disappointing thanks to a dearth of options at eight o’clock even though the Restaurant’s hours suggest a 07h30 opening.
Located centrally about midway between two Metro stops, no lack of nearby options in terms of shopping or dining, guests entering Kafé Esaias immediately fell under the watchful eye of a long-faced woman who offered neither “Hej” nor “Good Morning,” such a rarity when combined with pursed lips that it almost felt as though business was unwanted.
Breaking the silence by saying “Hello,” a muffled response uttered as the dour woman went back to work, it was after surveying limited stock that five choices were made before settling the modest tab and exiting, a concrete block up the way proving a more comfortable place to sit and take pictures before eating.
Oddly not offering Kardemumma Bulle or Tosca, nearly ubiquitous items elsewhere conspicuous by their absence but replaced by novelties, it was with a doughy Cinnamon Roll that the regrettable experience carried over from inside, all but a bite left behind for the birds while a braid tinged green by Pistachio was thinner and springier with better flavor.
Finally deciding to brave a Punch Rulle after overlooking many others based on a description including “Alcohol flavor, but not really,” it was in a spongy center sort of like Nougat that something between Almond Extract and Rum Flavor was found, the flavor expectedly displeasing while a Raspberry Thumbprint Cookie labeled “Garbo” and Chokladboll lighter than most in terms of Coconut were edible unmemorable.
Braised Blue Mussel in its “Shell” with Elderberries
King Crab Kushiyaki in Black Garlic Hollandaise
Vintage Lamb Tartare-style, Seaweed, Potato
Quail hung over glowing embers, glazed in “Nordic Five Spice,” Shredded Lettuce
Pithivier with Quail, Mirabelle Plum
Frozen Bird Cherry Flowers, Sweet Cicely, Green Rhubarb
Frozen Sorrel, Almond
Rhubarb and Seed Cake
Whisked Green Tea, Fermented Rye, White Chocolate
While only insiders will ever fully know why Esperanto shuttered on June 21st it was fortuitous to be able to enjoy dinner there on Wednesday night in Stockholm, Sayan Isaksson and his staff orchestrating a beautiful meal that will break tradition and live on only in pictures from here, though should the Thai Chef who became known for Swedish ingredients prepared as they might be in Japan ever open another Restaurant it will certainly be a destination worth visiting.
Located inside Stockholm’s Grand Hôtel and the perennial recipient of One Michelin Star it was for lunch that two guests sat down at Matbaren, one of three eateries owned and operated by Chef Mathias Dahlgren whose Rutabaga stands directly across the way.
Still one of Sweden’s top Toques, a Bocuse d’Or win in 1997 and several Cookbooks making Dahlgren a household name while at the same time remaining a popular recommendation amongst gourmet travelers, it was after navigating the extravagant Hotel’s corridors that two guests were seated at a hightop along the far wall, various styles of tables and chairs giving the room character while the Staff is pleasant and accommodating.
Finding wooden boxes containing menus, bags, silverware and glasses at each seat, a unique arrangement that at times makes one feel as though they are eating off a “lunch tray,” it was in the brown paper that Crisps of Flax and Rye were found, these as well as warm Spelt Sourdough each good on their own but even more delicious when slathered with salted Butter reportedly churned less than thirty minutes away.
Unpretentious despite its accolades, the fact that Matbaren was apparently at one time a more casual way to experience Mathias Dahlgren’s cuisine than an eponymous Michelin 2-stared spot in the same Hôtel likely part of that reason, it was after lengthy deliberation that the decision was made to order one 495 SEK Lunch Prix Fixe plus four additional items a la carte, a trio of Appetizers arriving after perhaps fifteen minutes all simple and delicious with the fresh Herring amidst two types of Eggs a pleasant surprise to someone who typically considers it “too fishy.”
Happily finding the Croquettes stuffed with Rillettes rather than filleted Fish, the smokiness balanced by tangy Tartar Sauce, it was with the Lamb Sausage gone in one bite each that second courses were fired, the lightly seared local Pork supple and rich compared to American where most kitchens overcook the Meat while a dish of Swedish Morels and tender Asparagus dressed in umami and acid suggested Dahlgren’s recently-opened Vegetable-centric Restaurant likely warrants attention.
In need of an afternoon pick-me-up, several miles and meals already logged plus more to follow, it was alongside a Double Espresso and Ice that two Desserts were presented, the Prix Fixe’s Rhubarb & Strawberry Crumble beautifully composed with sweet, sour, crunchy, creamy, hot and cold all accounted for while Matbaren’s famous Baked Wild Chocolate from Bolivia charted a similar course by way of not-quite-molten Cake playing off Sour Cream, Toffee and candied Nuts.
Rounding out a very pleasant Meal with Mignardises, both the dainty Orange Caramel and Madeline-like Almond Cookies again speaking well of Matbaren’s Bread and Pastry Team, it was with a fairly modest bill paid that another look at the hotel was taken, a sign welcoming guests for some sort of White Guide Conference explaining why both of Dahlgren’s Restaurants were fully booked for the evening and perhaps portending good news for the Chef in next year’s edition of Scandinavia’s premier dining publication.
Located at Stora Nygatan 6 in Gamla Stan it is hard to know just what Sattva Bakery is officially called, but hailed by Vegans as one of Stockholm’s best places for Butter-free Fika a stop on Wednesday morning showed that although Sweden’s baking scene is generally quite strong they have a ways to go in terms of meeting the needs of those with Animal-free dietary preferences.
Small and well-situated along one of many narrow streets in Old Town, an outside patio empty on arrival with only two young women inside chatting while a clerk who appeared Indian went about his business after a smiling “Hej,” it was after browsing the small selection and asking a few questions answered in excellent English that four items were picked, a fifth added for free in the form of a white star.
Taking items elsewhere to enjoy, the Bakery a bit warm given its small size and ovens, it was after pictures were snapped that the complimentary Kokos Blomma was tasted, the flavor of Coconut quickly flooding the mouth though the texture was chalky and unpleasant enough to discourage additional bites.
Improving slightly henceforth, the Cinnamon Roll nicely flavored but expectedly dry considering its limitations in terms of ingredients, it was with intrigue that exceedingly moist Carrot Cake was tasted, the bitter Greens presumably Tops or perhaps Kale and the sweetness likely from Figs while a slice of Pie featuring Pears and Pecans was a highlight despite its soggy Crust.
Lacking most of the traditional Pastries sampled elsewhere in town, a “Rawfoodbol” saved for last standing in for Sweden’s ubiquitous Coconut-covered Chocolate Balls, it was not the Nuts so much as a the grainy Cocoa center that left all but one bite uneaten alongside at least 50% of everything else save for the Pie.
Willing to go to great lengths for quality baked goods, a fact no doubt evident as two dozen Bageris and Konditoris were sought out across nine days in Sweden, it was almost an hour of public transportation including ten minutes walk and a transfer that led to Magnus Johansson, the accolades hanging from walls telling of someone well regarded at his craft and eight items ordered proving those awards to be justified.
Located at Lugnets Allé 7, a street in southeast Stockholm that one local dining upstairs stated “might as well be a suburb,” guests entering Magnus Johansson Bageri & Konditori will immediately have eyes widened by some three-dozen options, Johansson himself first seen downstairs with a full tray of Viennoiseries and later stopping by to check-in on guests before entering the on-site Bakeshop where he was soon seen slicing Fruit and later whipping what appeared to be Pastry Cream.
Fairly priced for such a large storefront, several diners enjoying the early morning sun outside while a few took advantage of quiet confines to read or do work, it was immediately after snapping photos with the taste of a Bread sample still on the lips that warm ‘Bostock’ was indulged in, the half-Croissant light with house-made Almond Paste as good as one might find in France.
Enjoying halves of most items with the rest not lasting long thereafter, the ‘Tosca’ here labeled Notknappare faring better than any prior thanks to a blend of Nuts and thick Caramel, it was as a minor disappointment that Magnus Johansson’s Katalan offered too little Raspberry Jam to be as soft as others while the Kardemumma Bulle was more a “Bun” than the versions as Åsö or Petrus but still a lovely blend of sweet, fragrant and buttery.
Saving heavier items for the end, a third Wienerbrod in as many days easily outpacing others in terms of lightness of Pastry and creaminess of Custard, it was further setting a new standard that both the Solbulle and Vanilla Danish with Rhubarb Jam came across fluffy without any semblance of sogginess despite plenty of moist filling while Johansson’s Chokladbol was toothsome like soft Granola despite being rich with tender Coconut shavings and plenty of good quality Cocoa.
Cheese from Lofsta, Smoky Buttermilk, Elderflower Syrup, Seed Crisps
Wood fired Oven baked Almond Cake, Rhubarb, Yeast
Mandel Kakor
Historically a member of the “World’s 50 Best Restaurants” and perennial recipient of One Michelin Star it was along with a local previously encountered during lunch at Geranium that dinner was sat down to at Ekstedt on Tuesday evening, a five-course meal flanked by Canapés and Mignardises proving enjoyable if not particularly ‘exciting.’
Owned and operated by Niklas Ekstedt, a minor celebrity who has since moved on to cook at other projects, it was after stints with both Heston Blumenthal and the Adria brothers at El Bulli that the young Chef returned to Stockholm where his eponymous Restaurant eschews modernism in favor of a stoves, ovens and hearths powered by nothing but wood, a trendsetter rather than follower as the kitchen has been nearly electricity free since its 2012 opening.
Tucked behind a humble storefront and decidedly relaxed compared to other Stockholm stars, Chefs working in plain sight amidst a room decorated in little more than copper, steel and wood, it was by friendly and educated servers that guests were served throughout the evening, light music playing overhead as things got underway with a tableside preparation of Smoked Reindeer Heart cooked in a hot buttered skillet with Mushrooms and intended to be eaten like a “Nordic Taco.”
Using a variety of local Woods and cooking mechanisms including a chimney modified to be used as a smoker throughout the meal, a subtle mint flavor backing smoke and Herbs deeply penetrating fresh Mussels, it was as an unexpected surprise that two shucked Oysters were next presented, an orb of Potato offering contrast of both temperature and texture while Kelp Butter amped up the umami.
Performing a lot of tableside saucing, diners repeatedly benefited by aromatics unfolding as the dish was described, it was next that a sizable Langoustine was presented atop a bed of foraged Herbs beneath a dusting of dehydrated Deer with an earthy Broth poured from a vessel, one slice of Bread each buying time before the kitchen sent forth a skin-on filet of Perch that again found itself tinged in mostly bitter accoutrements.
Growing heavier as the meal progressed, though portion sizes and pacing remained appropriate for even those with modest appetites, it was over a fairly petite Sweetbread and Mushrooms cooked in Hay that oily broth with a beefy sapor was poured before savories culminated in Spring Lamb hidden beneath a blanket of clarified Cabbage, the garlicky Sauce at first requiring a little getting used to but eventually making sense given the protein’s minimal cooking and richness.
Tacking on a 105 SEK Cheese Course to share, an unnamed Cow’s Milk variety from Lofsta served shaved with Buttermilk in Elderflower Syrup alongside Seed Crisps, it was as burnt-Rhubarb Cream was added to buttery Almond Cake that the server explained electricity is indeed needed to power the Machine responsible for lightly-sweetened Yeast Ice Cream, a traditional Mandel Kakor to finish seemingly an odd choice as it was virtually identical to the cake, though perhaps a bit lighter and sweeter.
Informed late of Hötorgshallen, a collection of Restaurants and Food stalls in central Stockholm, it was after an impressive visit to Vasamuseet that a stop was made to look around, several stands offering Charcuterie, Cheese and Dry Goods passed by in search of Thelins where a few more Fika were tasted.
Apparently one of at least ten such Konditori in the City, several standalone locations garnering mixed opinions from locals as well as tourists, it was oddly with the clerk absent on arrival that items were perused, a few small Fruit Flies buzzing around racks held in open air expected given the location but still not ideal.
Eventually allowed to place an order, a pleasant young clerk presumably returning from the restroom, it was with no nearby seating that items were taken upstairs, the continued lack of chairs or tables forcing one to order Coffee at Espresso House where two guests immediately tucked into a Cardamom Bun that had a good rise but very little flavor followed by a Chokladboll featuring more Oats than most which on one hand kept sweetness in check but on the other made the texture a bit too grainy.
Moving next to the day’s second Notknappare, Magnus Johansson’s version from earlier setting a very high standard that Thelins could not match thanks to less Nuts and Caramel, it was surprisingly Thelins’ Cake slices that showed best, the Carrot a touch dry but buoyed by thick and tangy Frosting while the Marzipan-wrapped Princess offered pleasant juxtaposition of buttery Sponge Cake with Custard and Pastry Cream.
With no Desserts available at Meatballs – For The People it was after a pleasant walk through Söder that two guests found themselves at Åsö Konditori & Bageri, the two-story space at Åsögatan 102 remaining busy despite an hour during which many are normally at work as a result of comfortable confines and free WiFi plus some of Stockholm’s best Pastries.
Located on a largely residential street not far from the Metro Station and open seven-to-seven on Weekdays with slightly shorter hours on weekends, at least one Baker still present approaching 16h00 and presumably working on items for the next day, it was after browsing still-full shelves that six items were selected, the Café upstairs offering a pleasant place to dine as the majority of patrons filled seats outside.
Using slightly different nomenclature than other Konditori around Stockholm, the Wienerbrod for instance dubbed Vaniljbulle thanks to the flavor of thick Custard inside its fluffy golden coils, it was with Princess Cake dressed pretty in Pink that one of the city’s best slices was found, at least five separate layers including Cream and Raspberry Compote contributing to Pound Cake that was more buttery than others but still surprisingly light.
Not about to pass on the classic Fika focused on throughout nine days in Sweden, Åsö’s Cardamom Bun more leavened than others and thus open beneath the sugared top with a nice stretch to the Dough, it was with a dual layer of the same Raspberry Jam tasted earlier that a Katalan Tart shined while the Tosca also performed admirably, the now-predictable Chokladbol in this instance occurring by way of a “Lillebror” that replaced with Pearl Sugar around the Chocolate and Oat core.
Not a part of the culinary map when departing for Sweden it was on the recommendation of an Airbnb owner that Meatballs For The People was added to an already crowded agenda, the all-day Eatery in Söder applying the “do one thing and do it well” concept to Sweden’s most famous dish and delivering it with a ton of tongue in cheek.
Found in a corner space at Nytorgsgatan 30 and offering outside seats along both walls plus plenty of room indoors it was during late-lunch that two guests arrived to find several others also dining during off-hours, the daytime menu significantly truncated from that after 17h00 but still offering several good choices.
Open since 2013 under the tagline “WE LOVE TO COOK. YOU LOVE TO EAT!” and further filing the space with suggestive quotes about Balls it is at a counter in front of the open kitchen that diners are invited to place their order, classic Swedish Meatballs no doubt the most commonly requested choice though everything from Moose to Rooster and Reindeer is offered depending on the season.
Shabby-chic and clearly going for that look, a complimentary Pickle Bar and all-one-can-drink Water plus Coffee offered at an interior table, it was after gathering several condiments that these plus an order number were taken outside, plenty of shade and a good breeze creating a far more pleasant environment than prior lunches in places without good circulation.
Waiting no more than ten minutes for two plates, the Pickled Cauliflower and crispy Rye Crackers spread with herbal Cream Cheese whetting appetites in the interim, it was largely a matter of deciding which looked less delicious that posed an issue when surveying both dishes, the Lamb proving not unlike Gyro Meat in terms of its taste and perhaps predictable considering the manner in which it was presented while tender orbs of Beef and Pork were juicy and rich, far better than what was served at a higher price by Operabaren though not quite as memorable as those at Pelikan.
Impressed by Anton Bjuhr and Jacob Holmströmm’s work at Gastrologik and keeping lunches brief to experience more of Stockholm’s sights and sounds it was at casual off-shoot Speceriet that two guests sat down to lunch on Tuesday, the tiny space next to its Michelin-starred sibling filling up with businessmen no more than fifteen minutes after opening and generating a short line thereafter.
Open 11h30 to 14h00 Tuesday through Friday and evenings from 17h00 everyday but Sunday those wise enough to arrive at Speceriet early will be offered the choice of indoor or outside seating, a space in the window intentionally avoiding the sun but nonetheless subjected to excessive temperatures once the place filled up and air circulation was reduced to a standstill.
Presented Prix-fixe or a la Carte with Dessert and Coffee as part of the former it was with good Bread topped in better Butter that selections were made without difficulty, the limited options allowing for near-immediate expediting and plates arriving within five minutes.
Laid-out as Meat, Vegetarian and ‘almost-Vegetarian,’ the menu’s Produce-driven nature not unsurprising considering what had already been seen at Gastrologik, one would be hard-pressed to call Speceriet anything less than a bargain given prices and portion sizes, the tender cubes of Pork with Potatoes atop Citrusy Mayonnaise at least 200g of beautifully cooked Protein while Cabbage was approximately 1/3 head and an elegant balance of flavors thanks to Cauliflower Cream and Grains set against funky Anchovy Butter.
Offering a small gourmet grocery section near the door, payment at the register a bit inconvenient as it forced those entering and exiting to mingle mere inches from diners, it was with Coffee left behind thanks to already being too warm that Lunch ended with Beer Sorbet atop poached Rhubarb with crumbled Meringue, the taste of Hops restrained but still present and thus off-putting to those who don’t enjoy that flavor.
Walking to dinner on Friday evening one could not help but notice the scene at Wienercaféet, a visit for Breakfast five days later finding things far more sedate at a space opened in 1904 that continues to serve as an all-day rendezvous seven days a week.
Operated as a Champagne Bar and Café at Biblioteksgatan 6, nearby shopping and local businesses supplying an endless supply of foot traffic that has made the Restaurant as successful with tourists as it is with locals, guests arriving at one of the Restaurant’s two entrances during morning hours will find themselves free to waltz right in and explore, table service eschewed in favor of a Bakery where items are laid out with prices a bit higher than other places less well appointed in terms of décor.
Maintaining much of its old wood and granite, the kitchen clearly upgraded at some point since Wienercafeet was taken over by a local group managing at least a half-dozen additional Bars and Eateries, it was with several guests already enjoying Fika and Coffee that six items were selected from a line-up for approximately 240 SEK, first bites of the Cardamom Bun seeing caramelized outsides give way to a dense interior rich in Butter but low in Spices.
Improving henceforth in terms of Food, the lone waiter in charge of Water refills spending most of time kibitzing with two middle-aged women seated outside, it was setting aside more than half of Roll one that attention turned instead to another topped in Nuts, the base similar but deeply penetrated by Sugar though in terms of taste the more traditional Tosca Tart proved better thanks to less Bread and more notable flavor from an array of Seeds and Nuts.
Next investing in previously unheard of “Wienerbrod,” a laminated ring of Pastry surrounding Vanilla Custard and lightly drizzled with Icing, it was here that Wienercaféet again showed well, the Budapest at first appearing dry but in reality delicate and light with smooth Cream supporting Orange segments while the Chokladbol was dark and rich but spared from being one dimensional by an equal ratio of Cocoa to Oats and Coconut.
Occupying a sizable space at Sturegatan 6 in Stockholm it was due to inaccurate hours listed on the internet that Taverna Brillo got shifted from Sunday to Tuesday, a 7h00h weekday opening and arrival around thirty minutes in finding the Restaurant fairly busy with some diners already enjoying pleasant weather on the Patio.
Part of a larger Restaurant Group and best known for Pizzas and plates from a wood-fired oven, morning hours presenting a limited menu plus several grab n’ go items arranged on a counter and seemingly charged via honor system, it was after obtaining a seat and logging into free WiFi that the spread was surveyed, three housemade Breads selected along with fresh strained Yogurt and Sweden’s famously funky Fish Roe Spread.
Not exactly a place for outstanding service early on, a Barista plus one Waiter seemingly the only folks working despite at least two dozen guests, it was with a good chew and bold aromatics that Brillo’s Saffron Roll outperformed one speckled with Seeds plus a questionably day-old Pain au Chocolate, the Yogurt thankfully thick and tangy but excellent with a sidecar of Raspberry Compote.
Doing little to make menu items evident, only a piece of card-stock on the counter making guests aware of things beyond the buffet, it was forgoing Sandwiches that baked Porridge consisting of several different grains was served, the Maple tinged shell and steamy insides quite good on its own but much better one cooled to an edible temperature by mixing in Yogurt, fresh Fruit and Granola.
With much of Stockholm’s best dining closed on Mondays it was to Adam/Albin that two guests turned for dinner, a place some trusted sources had suggested might deserve a Michelin Star proving thoroughly average throughout a protracted period of nearly three hours.
Located at Rådmansgatan 16 and offered as two differing experiences, a “Blue Menu” Tasting putting diners at the whim of two Chefs working side-by-side in a partially open kitchen while the “Green Menu” trends Prix-Fixe, it was stepping around bar stools that diners were seated in a teensy two-top surrounded in greenery, one glass of Wine starting things off and a cup containing one bite of Radish in earthy Cream arriving soon thereafter as a “welcoming gift.”
Debating options and eventually deciding on the Green Menu with differing plates at each course, the night’s Bread and Butter arriving warm and herbal with a good chew, it was in Asian flavors that two more bites arrived at intervals of teen minutes, the Rice Tea with strategically placed Petals to be taken “one per sip” mostly salty while iced Asparagus in an Emulsion of Mustard and Roe was over-the-top Umami but not especially delicious.
More ‘trendy’ than other Stockholm Restaurants at its price-point, the music too loud and lighting ‘just so,’ one of the night’s best bites was next presented by way of Onions in Puff Pastry plus the sweetness of Apples while first courses were pleasant but unmemorable whether one selected local Tomatoes beneath a veil of Avocado or Pork with King Crab that got muddled and lost in potent Ginger Sauce.
Not so much a “bad” meal as one lacking refinement, second courses of Garlic Mushrooms and “crusty” Jerusalem Artichokes both one-note with the former lacking any real flavor beneath its hefty aroma, it was heartening that a main plates of Pike stood out amongst many seen throughout Sweden thanks to smoky Cream that played well of Morels though the cooked Cauliflower again tasted one dimensional thanks to an overabundance of Citrus.
Improving a bit with Dessert, a lengthy delay seeing interest wane further, it was with both diners presented two plates that a choose-your-own-adventure finale was underway, the bowl of Cherries best taken bite-for-bite with the floral Sundae while tender Rhubarb was best in a single spoonful with Rosemary Ice Cream, though the best bite of the night may just have been a buttery laminated Crisp that accompanied the check.
Bufalina Con Fiocchi di Parma – Fior di Latte, Buffalo Mozzarella DOP, Parma Ham DOP, Basil, Fresh Picadilly Tomatoes, Olive Oil
Double Espresso – Ice
Cannoli alla Ricotta – Ricotta, Pistachio, Chocolate Chips
Said by some to be Stockholm’s premier Pizzeria it was as the first stop of a two-part supper that diners sat down at Giro, the lengthy Restaurant at Sveavaegen 46 no doubt making a good first impression by way of its imported wood-fired oven and a menu full of top quality ingredients including several brought in from the markets of Naples and Rome.
Open since 2015 but referencing traditions dating back over one hundred years to Italy, the leavening and baking methods of Da Michele Pizzeria referenced in creating a traditional Pie occasionally adorned by modern ingredients, it is to a Menu of nothing but Pizza, Olives and a lone Salad that guests are introduced upon entry, approximately two-dozen Pies in total.
Using ovens readied for lunch and burning until 22h00 nightly, the space fairly large but mostly empty around 16h00, it was after debating several choices that two Pizzas were selected for around 200 SEK each, one arriving after the other as staff prefers to fire each separately when possible and first bites of the puffy rim around “Bufalina Con Fiocchi di Parma” speaking of excellent craftsmanship from the small flecks of Salt on its bottom to melted Fior di Latte and slightly cooler Buffalo Mozzarella set against thinly sliced Ham.
Almost “White” Pies thanks to the use of roasted Tomatoes instead of Sauce, Tear-drops plucked from their Vines and rinsed prior to placement atop Dough, it was in a similar display of excellence that a Pizza featuring Calabrian Sausage added a bit of heat plus more blistering to Giro’s product, the fact that a thumbsize Cannoli lacked sweetness not unexpected considering Giro’s focus on authenticity but the Shell being a little soggy on the bottom admittedly a bit disappointing.
Although Operakällaren has a Michelin Star and air of exclusivity most well-traveled gourmands will tell visitors that the better experience is next door, a tiny space called Operabaren offering classic Swedish dishes at both lunch and dinner inside a storied space dating to 1905.
By no means a space for modernity nor a new age kitchen, the interior Art Nouveau from its painted ceilings and gilded molding to heavy wooden seats, guests entering Opera Bar will find most present during the week donning suits, discussion of business occurring in English and Swedish with a security detail even present on this particular day though nothing about the afternoon seemed unsafe or out of place.
Able to see part of the Opera House by way of a trip to the restroom, an elegant feel not unlike most European theaters unsurprising, it was upon return to the table that Bread to be taken by hand from a basket was offered, the seemingly odd gesture from a place otherwise so refined nonetheless yielding soft and dense slices of Rye ready to be slathered with Butter plus delicate Crisps.
Happy to have strolled through Kungsträdgården Park en route to make room after a busy morning of eating it was eschewing actual Appetizers that a plate of classic Swedish Meatballs started a three-course meal for two guests, ingredients supposedly the same as those next door yielding five small orbs not nearly as tender as those at Pelican nor Meatballs for the People, though the thin Cream Sauce was complex and rich both on its own or atop pureed Potatoes that contained nearly equal parts Starch and Butter.
Taking in the scene while dining, an absence of the music ubiquitous in Restaurants today putting more focus on a “who’s who” dynamic that clearly saw servers favoring certain tables, it was after a requested refill of Water that plates of Sausage and Quenelles de Brochet arrived, the former a classic Swedish dish with lots of texture that outperformed one past experience at Aquavit in New York while the souffléd Fish fell flat thanks to under-seasoning and Fennel which muted any Lobster flavor in the Sauce.
Surveying a lengthy Dessert menu before making a decision, the sizable portions and richness already adding up, it was on the advice of others that Operabaren’s Butter Cream and Meringue Cake was selected over items featuring Rhubarb or Chocolate with Walnuts, the results thankfully justifying an entire meal thanks to crisp yet nearly weightless Almond Meringue layered above and below Cream that tasted like sweetened butter but ate like Mascarpone Cheese.
Another of Stockholm’s more storied spaces it was after a visit to Fotografiska that Pärlans Konfekty fit into a lengthy day of eating, arrival shortly after opening greeted by an expected “Hej” as a young female clerk went about her business stocking shelves while two workers in back chopped Butter and stirred pots on stoves.
Known worldwide for housemade Caramels produced by traditional methods, a wide variety of classic and novel flavors each made and wrapped by hand, it is amidst the small shop that one will find not only Candies but Sauces, Ice Cream Bars and additional confections, some available to taste with both the Vanilla and Hazelnut Sauces making one debate putting a bag under the plane instead of strictly using a carry-on or paying particularly steep shipping costs.
As friendly as most stores in Stockholm, service never pushy but always present and ready to help, it was after several tastes plus perhaps fifteen minutes of watching production of what appeared to be Jam that a purchase was made, a half-dozen flavors with duplicates as gifts all buttery and smooth with Raspberry particularly delectable, as too was one speckled with Hazelnuts.
Unable to pass on Ice Cream, a lack of Artisan parlors in Sweden potentially due to the generally cold weather, suffice it to say that regardless of season Pärlans’ Bars with a crisp outside and medium-frozen center more than justify their cost and calories, in this case a simple combination of Caramel flecked with Sea Salt around Vanilla though others including Licorice, Strawberry and Chocolate are available.
Likely to stumble across occasional mediocrity when seeking greatness it was at Konditori Bananza that Stockholm’s Fika first failed, the store at Ringvägen 36 far less fanciful than others in the area with a small selection and customer service that seemed to feel hassled by patrons rather than grateful that a visitor had walked through their doors.
Per the website recently undergoing a change in ownership, the Café and Tea Room previously praised by some for offering one of Sweden’s best White Lady Cakes and seasonal Semla featuring only half-stocked shelves at 09h30 on a Monday, it was with just one other man sipping Coffee on the patio that questions were abruptly answered and four items gathered for Cash-only, the clerk’s surprisingly limited English fluency perhaps playing part in the situation.
Sitting down with one plate and a bag outdoors, Bananza’s Budapest Cake replacing Berries offered elsewhere with Orange Slices that were matched to Milk Chocolate and Vanilla Cream, it was from here that two of three items ordered repeatedly at other Bakeries fell flat, the Tosca dry and gritty beneath Nuts and a Chocolate Ball flavored more like Oats than Cocoa or Coconut while the Katalan thankfully propped up everything else by way of its buttery center surrounded by a double-layer of Jam.
With perhaps a dozen storefronts speckled around Stockholm it was during a full day of eating and sightseeing that a stop was made at Fabrique, the fact that it is a chain not nearly as damning as such things are in America since each Bakery employs an actual Baker to come in and prepare items from good ingredients with proper technique daily.
Selecting this particular Fabrique amongst the others purely out of convenience, three additional Bageris and Konditoris found along a path culminating at Fotografiska, it was shortly after entering that a young lady emerged from the back to assist with an order, the fact that everything looks better than most “Artisan” Bakeries back home because they are, even the porcelain plates and seating options detail oriented.
Focusing on traditional Fika for the most part, a few novel items additionally ordered and rarely seen across two-dozen Bakeries stretching from the Capital to Järvsö, Gavle and Åre, it was with the Cardamom Bun falling short of a world-class version at Petrus that attention switched to a similar Roll topped with Walnuts, both these and Almonds studding a dense Chocolate Brownie upgrading their base by way of Salt and subtle smokiness.
Next sampling a Cookie listed as Hallon Grotta, essentially a thick Shortbread Thumbprint filled by sticky Raspberry Jam, it was once again that Chokladboll rounded things out, this one a little more ‘chalky’ than most as a result of too little Oats and Coconut, though the Chocolate was quite Dark and pleasant with a slightly fruity linger.
Liked by some respected palates as Stockholm’s best bakery it was for Breakfast on Monday that a visit was made to Bageri Petrus, the baker visibly rolling Dough at a front window and Croissants proofing behind him a good sign even before opening the door to a jolly “Hej Hej” from two young ladies at the counter.
Located near the center of Södermalm and likened to the great bakeries of France despite Petrus’ relatively young age, limited indoor and outside seating making it more a true Cafe than some of Sweden’s Artisan Bageris, guests entering will soon have their vision saturated by items on racks and behind glass, several Swedish classics unavailable and instead replaced by loaves of Bread that rotate daily plus Brioche, housemade Jams and Croissants.
Open weekdays at 07h00 and Saturday an hour later with Sundays offering a day of rest it was after waiting in a queue of locals en route to work that five items plus a cup of Coffee were selected, the decision to start with Petrus’ Cardamom Bun a good one as it allowed a few bites of Butter and Spice to wash over the palate before setting the rest aside and “saving the best for last.”
Moving next to a Butter Croissant, undoubtedly the best amongst a limited sampling in Stockholm thanks to a crisp Shell around insides light and wispy, it was admittedly surprising that the Pain au Chocolat offered equally light layers despite a dense core still warm and slightly molten.
No doubt benefitting by early arrival, the Morning Bun also warm but a little one dimensional thanks to so much Sugar, it was with expected tanginess that Brioche topped in Rhubarb Custard made lips pucker before the mouth adjusted, a return to the Kardemumma Bulle momentarily making one ponder sticking around to sip Coffee while enjoying another.
Highly regarded by locals and travel sites it was on a whim that two diners stopped by Cafe Nizza around 20h30 Sunday evening, a location separate from downtown or old town giving the small Italian Restaurant a decidedly locals-only feel plus prices far lower than many presumably more “luxurious” Restaurants planned during a trip to Sweden.
Located at Åsögatan 171 on the landmass south of Gamla Stan, Stockholm’s outstanding public transportation making access a matter of minutes from prior dinner at The Flying Elk, it was with al fresco seating full of Swedes that a two-top against an interior window was offered, the menu a well-culled one featuring few signatures and mostly market specials.
Known as perhaps the city’s best place for Pasta, three or four styles made on-site daily in addition to Whole Wheat Sourdough offering a good Crust and fluffy center, it was with an appetizer of fried Perch with aromatic Slaw and shaved Apples quickly consumed that two plates of Noodles were presented, the pockets of Brisket a bit thick and not particularly shown best in Dashi bittered by Turnips while Cafe Nizza’s famous take on Cacio e Pepe fared far better as a result of plenty of melted Cheese and Black Pepper forming a thick Sauce around plump Dumplings.
Serving at a pace that was comfortable and never rushed, plates plus utensils reset by course, it was with tough decisions made that two Desserts were selected out of four, a Caramel Custard Tart highly reminiscent of Sugar Pies offered in Canada but offering a bit more creaminess while the seasonal Rhubarb and Almond Cake was simple and beautiful in its presentation of Sugar-poached Stalks atop a toothsome and buttery base.