Miso Black Garlic Hummus, Scallion Pancakes, Crudite
Springrolls, Sweet Chile Sauce
Chicken Wings, Angry Sauce, Honey Butter
The Hot Flock Sando – Fried Chicken Breast, Sichuan Chili Oil, Flock Sauce, House Slaw, Doug’s Egg Bread
Bang Bang Chicken Noodle Salad – Sichuan Chili, Cucumbers, Peanut Dressing, Preserved Mustard Greens
Mixed Berry Cheesecake
If one wants to know why some Restaurants are favored for catering by Big Pharma while others are overlooked they need only look up the dictionary definition of “convenient,” and though recent changes by the legislature will likely also make cost a factor the best thing a locally run business can do to gather industry dollars is make things easy, accurate and timely – none of these especially the case for Flock & Fowl DTLV though the Food was expectedly delicious.
Still new to delivery despite years in the Restaurant business, Sheridan and Jenny’s unique path to a place downtown recently seeing Chef Su receive a prestigious James Beard Foundation Semi-Finalist nod, it was with an order arranged and paid for some 48-hours prior that Food was delivered fifteen minutes later than anticipated, phone-calls to numbers on both the website and one suggested by Google unanswered as the Restaurant does not open until 5pm, the elevator system in the office further contributing to the delay as early shift employees saw more than 1/3 of their break wasted.
Eventually unpacked and arranged, the absence of two bought-and-paid-for items necessitating reimbursement and repeat apologies but thankfully no excuses, it was using serviceware left over from Andre’s Bistro that items were plated by hungry staff, most’s first bite from either red hot “Angry Sauce” Chicken Wings or those tossed in Honey Butter, travel time doing nothing to harm crispiness that won Flock & Fowl a city-wide competition in March and all sixty gone within minutes despite smaller than expected attendance.
Always a challenging group to please, several picky eaters plus a few intolerances or “allergies” to be accounted for, it was much to the delight of all that Flock & Fowl’s Spring Rolls were flavorful and not overly ‘sour’ with Cabbage, the dipping Sauces also making a good impression on the Rolls or atop Scallion Pancakes intended to be dipped in creamy Garlic Hummus that had healthier members of the group swooning while those who turned up their nose in the past at Purple Potato or Portion Control expectedly took a pass.
Omitting Flock Fries that would have undoubtedly proved popular with this group, the result thus being more people forced to give Sheridan’s Bang Bang Chicken Noodle Salad a chance, it was even after many went back for seconds of thick Noodles more ‘heated’ than spicy that half a tray remained as leftovers, though this certainly was not the case with a crispy Chicken Breast on fluffy Brioche from Doug Taylor that got devoured quickly with cooling Slaw set against Chili Oil nor the Cheesecake which didn’t exactly present well sliced thin, though that did not really seem to matter as all off it was gone within minutes with several second-shifters likely never even getting a chance to see a fluffy multi-layered wedge.
N/A: Making it blog policy to not ‘rate’ places based on catering alone suffice it to say that this will hopefully be a learning experience for Jenny and Sheridan, the likelihood of this particular Company doing repeat business probably low but the Food definitely confirming Flock & Fowl’s capabilities and presenting even more reason to visit the actual Restaurant downtown.
RECOMMENDED: Miso Black Garlic Hummus with Scallion Pancakes, Honey Butter Wings, The Hot Flock Sando, Bang Bang Chicken Noodle Salad.
AVOID: N/A.
TIP: www.flockandfowl.com/catering-and-private-dining for costs and available items.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Guava Cheese Ice Cream and Yellow Plum Sorbet with dried Fruit and Nuts
A longtime member of the “if ever in the area” list it was after late Lunch that a stop was made at La Flor de Michoacan Paleteria & Ice Cream on East Charleston, a sneaky suspicion that the area is probably not so safe at night set aside prior to 5pm though the staff was hit and miss in terms of making guests feel welcome.
In reality one of several similarly named locations in Las Vegas, whether the stores are all related uncertain as offerings differ from one to the next, it is immediately on entry that diners will notice a functional Bakery stocked with a limited number of Pastries and Cakes, one man wearing a hairnet perfectly pleasant in procuring three items from the case despite limited English.
Moving next to the attached Ice Cream shop, a youthful server stepping up to offer samples while an older heavy-set female barked in Spanish at two men waiting by the Restroom before questioning food photography as “weird” for the first time since perhaps 2012, it was from large spoonfuls of Ice Cream and Sorbet that the decision was made for two scoops, a total bill of $10.29 no doubt cheap considering both weight and variety.
Assuming Ice Cream to be outsourced, the young man stating “we just got that one this morning” in reference to Yellow Plum Sorbet that tasted precisely like a fresh Nectarine, it was atop a scoop of smooth Guava-Cheese that the ball was packed and topped lightly by Nuts and dried Fruit, bites of Corn and Mango also compelling while Chamoy, Pistachio and a flavor that tasted like Strawberries and Rice Krispies Treats which no one could translate all came across overly sweet.
Moving next to Baked Goods, the Aguas Frescas, Popsicles and packaged Fruits all passed over but popular amongst a largely Hispanic clientele, it was after just two bites that overly thick Rice Pudding was discarded, the Choco-Flan faring far better in its Cake Layer than the rubbery Custard while Tres Leches fortunately featured a good Sponge and plenty of Milk that was not overwhelmingly sweet save for the area directly beneath a thickly glazed Strawberry.
TWO AND A HALF STARS: Well priced and offering good variety it seems La Flor de Michoacan would be better served by a closer focus on quality and guest experience, though there are definitely some good items and workers amidst the rest.
RECOMMENDED: Guava Cheese Ice Cream, Yellow Plum Sorbet, Tres Leches.
AVOID: Pistachio Ice Cream, Flan, Rice Pudding.
TIP: 9a-9p daily.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Upside down Grandma Slice in homage to L&B Spumoni Gardens
Garlic Bread
House Salad with Urban Seed Greens and Honey-Citrus Vinaigrette
Garlic Knot
Meatball Roll with Mozzarella, Tomato Sauce, Garlic Confit Oil and Pork-Beef Meatballs
Apparently a day for offering feedback beyond the typical ‘reviews’ it was after the lunch rush that a visit was made to Good Pie, Vince Rotolo and his team celebrating their four month anniversary by featuring a few Specials with more to come as Summer approaches quickly.
Turning a corner early in its lifespan thanks to Vincent’s investment in the downtown community, a win at the Back of House Brawl and good business from local law firms helping along a space that suffers from a location tucked in the back corner of Pawn Plaza, it was as a few take-out orders were called in that Chef Rotolo was found in typically good spirits, just he and one employee present but the window stocked with Slices as well as Garlic Knots and a few Salads.
Last seen by way of catering that had colleagues calling Good Pie “the best Pizza I’ve ever tasted,” the Grandma-style and Vince’s passionate discussion of its history winning over fans who’d never given much thought to the worldwide love of Pizza, it was in homage to both Grandma and New York’s L&B Spumoni Gardens that teeth cracked through a thin and crispy Crust protected from 3-fold the normal amount of Sauce by Cheese, everything about the idea an upgrade on the Brooklyn legend, though fans of thicker Dough may disagree.
Further improving the décor since late February, Mets and Brooklyn Dodgers paraphernalia joining a Caputo display plus more Grandmas for the wall, it was in follow-up to the slice that Chef Rotolo rolled out a new daily special intended to be served at lunch, Good Pie’s version of a Stromboli slightly larger than the typical Meatball Hero or Hoagie and faring far better thanks to Pizza Dough allowed to rise around it plus Vince’s Tomato Sauce and top-quality Mozzarella.
Offering both a Caesar and House Salad for the health-conscious, each punching above their pricetag thanks to Greens from Urban Seed plus housemade dressing including a honeyed-Vinaigrette, it is finally after a few tweaks that Good Pie is proud to serve Garlic Knots that unravel to a light pull with flaky insides and plenty of flavor, the still-in-the-works Bread proving even more aromatic and already better than most – no simple Butter and Garlic Powder here, but instead whole Cloves cooked and preserved in Oil forming the backbone to a soft and toothsome Loaf.
FIVE STARS: Evolving the concept daily, Pizza and passion never a problem for Rotolo no matter where he is cooking, a look at Good Pie four months in shows signs of continued excellence with more good things soon to come.
RECOMMENDED: Detroit Style Good Time, The Good White Grandma Pie and Gluten Free Pies were all hits when catered while this visit was highlighted by the Knots and Upside Down Grandma Slice.
AVOID: N/A, though some might find the House Salad’s Dressing a bit too sweet.
TIP: Open 11am daily with online or phone orders available, delivery offered via Postmates within a 5-mile radius.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Rare to make a drive north for anything other than Metro Pizza or Lulu’s Bread & Breakfast it was once again on Saturday morning that the day’s first meal was served by Chris Decker, discussion about Food and travel filling the time between bites of several new or upcoming items.
Now delighting guests for over five years at 6720 Skypointe Drive, a twenty minute drive to Centennial the only reason visits to Lulu’s do not happen with more frequency, it was immediately on entry that the familiar voice of a woman present at every visit since October 2013 chimed “Hey Baby, how you doing?,” a cup of good Coffee quickly poured from the fill-your-own station and Chef Decker soon emerging with two sugar-coated Brioche Donuts – one piped full of tangy Strawberry-Lemonade Custard and the other with Chocolate-studded Cannoli Cream.
Impressed but not surprised by the fried Dough, similarities to the quality seen at Mr. Holmes Bakehouse in terms of texture unavoidable and appropriate, it was not long after both Bombolini were finished that a hefty plate of French Toast ready to be offered on Father’s Day was presented, Decker’s Bread Pudding-style “Fat Elvis” recently spotlighted on national television further upgraded by Chocolate, Graham Crackers and toasted Marshmallows with reference to campground favorite S’mores.
Never foolish enough to turn down Pizza from someone so skilled in the art, all Metro locations visited performing well but real magic occurring when Decker or John Arena are stretching and topping the Dough, it was with one of Lulu’s light and fluffy Danishes packed for later that something Chris is working on for an upcoming competition was served, the Crust slightly thicker than Grandma-style crisp but still offering a good chew well complimented by two styles of Cheese, house Sausage and roasted Peppers plus Potatoes.
N/A: Not really ‘reviewing’ but instead given a chance to offer feedback on a few ideas the only thing to be said is that the Lulu’s/Metro complex is better now than ever before…and perhaps that the Pizza’s mouthfeel is better off without Onions.
TIP: The Fat Elvis goes Camping will be offered this weekend and Doughnuts are already offered, though Chef Decker claims over a hundred types of filling are in the works for a weekly rotation coming soon.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Pizza Bianca – White Sauce, Ground Sausage, Caramelized Onions, Fontina Cheese, Grated Parmesan, Extra Virgin Olive Oil
Nutella, Banana, Strawberry Calzone
Twice visited in the past and thrice utilized for catering it was alongside three adults and a child that dinner service was finally sat down to at Plantone’s Italian Market on Friday, past experience yielding a superior Pizza than those ordered for Take-Out but the rest of a five-item order again showing inconsistency, though nothing was particularly “bad.”
Now approaching 18-months of service and busy on this particular evening, a heavier prominence on Social Media and updated online Menus perhaps finally spreading the word of Glenn Plantone’s tribute to Uncle Tony, it was just prior to 5pm that guests grabbed a high-top before placing an order, the lack of Happy Hour specials admittedly surprising in the setting of a 5/23/18 Instagram post though overall cost remains affordable.
Sticking to counter-style ordering that only serves to confuse first-timers, some thirty feet separating menus from the register, it was shortly after paying the tab that a number and cups for self-service Beverages were provided, items rolling out one-by-one with an entrée of Chicken Parm arriving first, the pounded Breast juicy and light in oil though the Pasta was still too watery which led to Sauce already under-spiced being thinned out and mostly left to waste.
Next receiving six fried Ravioli, the texture fine but neither Cheese Filling nor Sauce doing much to compel anyone to finish one remaining, it was here that a “well done” Pizza Bianca substituting Sausage for Chicken was delivered, the crust still a far cry from Sin City’s best due to a lack of leavening but toppings all mingling well with sautéed Onions playing well off crumbled Pork and Fontina.
Rounding out savories with previously “secret menu” Pizza Fries, the Steak-cut Spuds flaccid even in areas not saturated with Sauce or added Ricotta, it was with far less attention to visuals than the one pictured online that a Nutella Calzone was finally sliced, the cost of $10.95 for “Calzone of Day BYO” as listed on the receipt not noticed till later inexplicably higher than the Nutella Pizza regardless of the suggested “1/2 off Happy Hour” which was nowhere to be found.
TWO STARS: Apparently achieving at least some notoriety as of late, though the odd order of delivery with Dessert preceding Fries makes one wonder if the kitchen can keep up with even a 33% filled dining room, Plantone’s Italian Market simply does not have what it takes to compete with other locals such as Naked City or Metro let alone the likes of Esther’s Kitchen where Appetizers such as stuffed Zucchini Blossoms only cost a few bucks more than the fried Ravioli and handmade Pasta is the same price as Chicken Parm atop watery boxed Noodles.
RECOMMENDED: Asking for Pizzas to be well-done.
AVOID: Pasta, Pizza Fries.
TIP: 11a-9p Sunday through Thursday and open until 10pm Fridays and Saturdays, Happy Hour supposedly 4p-7p daily.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Tuna Nicoise Salad with Green Beans, Olives, Sundried Tomatoes, Butter Lettuce
Tomato & Burrata Salad with Peaches and Sherry Vinaigrette
Quiche with Bacon and Comte Cheese
Porchetta & Raclette Cheese on Baguette with Dijon and Caramelized Onions
Roasted Chicken Breast on Baguette with Cajun Aioli, Sundried Tomatoes, Arugula, Havarti Cheese
Andre’s Cuban on Baguette with Pork Tenderloin, Jambon de Paris, Gruyere Cheese, Cornichon Relish, Whole Grain Mustard
Mediterranean Vegetables on Ciabatta with Basil Pistou, Raclette Cheese
Fudge Brownie
Butterscotch Oatmeal Cookie
Chocolate Chip Cookie
With yet more changes at Andre’s Bistro & Bar, Mark Purdy now apparently out while Chris Bulen and Kevin Lopez have put Gastromix on hold to help, it was for a catered lunch that General Manager Joe Marsco came to the office on Friday, several new items from the “a la minute French Market” menu showing great quality and plenty of value for the dollar.
Offered Monday through Friday from 11am until 4pm at the Restaurant on Fort Apache Road, the catering option carrying a minimal delivery fee and presented by platter or individual meals, it was with the former selected that several bowls and trays were delivered precisely at the time requested, the available selections easily accommodating all varieties of likes, allergies and aversions.
Ranging $9.50 – $11.00 per Sandwich with Salads a bit extra, well within the budget of Pharmaceutical Representatives otherwise happy to settle for Panera or Café Zuppa at similar cost, it was with some skepticism that inexperienced staff first approached a bowl of what they believed to be “Marshmallow Fluff” before being informed that it was in fact soft Cheese amongst Peaches and Tomatoes, those who tasted it immediately open to a whole new appreciation of what “Salad” can be while others instead opted for seared Ahi on a bed of Lettuce with crisp Green Beans, Olives and sweet Sundried Tomatoes.
Only reopened for lunch recently, the retooled menu more approachable and easily fit into an hour, it was next of fluffy Quiche on a buttery Shell that bites were taken, the Sandwiches to follow highlighted by Porchetta beneath melted Raclette on a housemade Baguette plus the Roasted Chicken Breast that came across juicy amidst more Sundried Tomatoes tinged with smoky Aioli.
Finding Andre’s Cuban a bit too heavy with Mustard for personal tastes, the removal of half yielding a far more balanced bite while the marinated Vegetables on Ciabatta sang thanks to aromatic Pesto, it was finally in Desserts from Tammy Alana that Lunch came to a conclusion, the soft Chocolate Chip Cookie with a crunchy halo gone fast while both a dense Fudge Brownie and toothsome Oatmeal Cookie with Butterscotch were quick to follow.
N/A: Making it blog policy to not ‘rate’ places based on catering alone suffice it to say that Andre’s Bistro & Bar exceeded expectations with the French Market Menu in terms of cost as well as quality.
Friterad Risotto – Deep-fried Risotto, local Halloumi Cheese, Lentil and Bulgur Ragout, Green Beans, Tomatoes
Kokets Schnitzel – Swedish Pork, Green Beans, Mushrooms, Capers, Anchovies, White Pepper Butter, Roasted Potatoes
Raspberry Sorbet, Whipped Cream, Toasted Coconut
Hazelnut Ice Cream, Whipped Cream, Salted and Roasted Nuts
Vanilla Ice Cream, Strawberry Compote, White Chocolate
Vanilla Ice Cream, Caramel, Dark Chocolate
Opened for the season on June 1st it was at Växbo Krog that one final meal in Sweden took place, the UNESCO World Heritage Site proving to be more about location than cuisine though the menu from Chef Johansson Jonsing certainly was not bad, just unexciting after eight days of Michelin Star dining.
Found in the city of Bollnäs and built in 2007, the nearby buildings surrounding a small pond far older and more traditional in design, it was just past 18h00 that parking was located in a lot nearby and with several guests already enjoying dinner on the outdoor patio a decision was made to eat indoors where temperatures were cooler and the air free of mosquitoes.
Large and thus fairly impersonal, a Kitchen to the room’s left looking out on lengthy communal tables plus a few two and four-tops back-dropped by black and white images from nearby, it was after short review of a fairly sizable list of items that one shared Appetizer plus two Main Courses were selected, a box of Housemade Bread soon to arrive which featured fluffy slices made in part from Potatoes plus Sourdough Crisps and liberally salted Butter.
Said to be focused on local ingredients from Hälsingland and seasonally driven, the preparations not necessarily Swedish but instead globally influenced, it was starting off that traditional Vendace Caviar paired to the usual condiments plus freshly shucked Peas was presented, the small portion gone quick and followed by nearly fifteen minutes staring at dirty dishes as service described as “personal while unobtrusive” was more so the latter.
Still sporting buffet tables along the back wall from lunch, two of them used to hold Växbo Krog’s all-one-cares-to-eat Ice Cream finale, it was shortly after the first course was cleared that Mains arrived, “Deep-fried Risotto” in reality just Arancini under a different name with plate-mates inspired by the Mediterranean while Pork Schnitzel fared far better as good Pork was pounded flat and fried crisp amidst Mushrooms and Brown Sauce plus a touch of spice and lots of brine.
Tempted by composed Desserts but eventually convinced to indulge in the Ice Cream by a server, both Sorbets a bit icy and thus overlooked past a bite or two, it was topping scoops of Hazelnut or Vanilla with housemade toppings that three small bowls were enjoyed, the best difficult to determine but the Caramel made with lots of Butter and Cream plus just a touch of definitely worth adding liberally.
Seeking a place to rest en route from Åre to ARN, the city of Järvsö familiar from just thirty hours prior, it was at Anders-Pers Fikabod that two guests stopped for lunch around 14h30, a day already full of Food and scenery including forests and waterfalls slowing down for a moment thanks to pleasant staff, housemade Breads and Fika plus comfortable rustic confines.
Located just down the road from Lill-Babs and thus convenient to passers-by, the Café facing away from the city but signs clearly marking its presence, it was immediately upon entry that a middle-aged woman greeted guests with Hej, the midday arrival finding selection a bit limited though what was left nonetheless looked delicious.
Offering not only Bread and Pastries but artisanal items made in Järvsö, everything from linens to Charcuterie and Cheese, it was with thick slices of Lamb Sausage along with Brie and Vegetables on a toasted Roll that dining got underway, the low cost of just 75 SEK for something that can easily be shared quite a deal while Pastries were also well priced at anywhere from 24-35 Swedish Krona.
Finishing the Sandwich before moving on to sweets, a sugared braid showing good stretch and a buttery crumb, it was in follow-up that a Roll Cake filled with Orange Marmalade and topped with whipped Cream further impressed before finishing up with two Chocolate items, a Chokladboll the best in days thanks to plenty of heterogeneity and good moisture while a flourless Chocolate Cake was deep, dark and rich but not quite as heavy as Fudge or a Brownie.
Checked out of Fäviken by 10h30 it was with a lengthy drive ahead that two guests stopped into Åre Bageri for provisions, the sizable space fairly full considering a season of empty slopes but servers all pleasant and helpful while prices trend a bit lower than those for similar items in Stockholm.
Open since 1984 and at this point a full-scale Restaurant featuring everything from Fika to Sandwiches and housemade Ice Cream, early hours additionally offering a grab and go table of Breads, Jams and Spreads, it was after lengthy perusal of forty-plus items that seven were selected, some including a particularly light slice of Princess Cake with a ribbon of Raspberry Jam never intended to make it to the car and most of the rest not surviving past the door either.
Taking a seat in the dining room with loaded bag and tray, several other patrons opting for al fresco dining during northern Sweden’s short Summer, it was as another happily worked her way through the aforementioned Cake that attention was shifted to a still-warm Cinnamon Roll, the lack of one spiced instead by Cardamom admittedly disappointing though the golden top and soft yet springy interior was excellent nonetheless.
Finding a few items not previously seen elsewhere, one titled Havrekaka essentially a finely-ground Oatmeal Cookie baked crisp and drizzled in Chocolate, it was next into a second Järvsölak that teeth sank, the chewy Coconut base even better than that al Lill-Babs in Järvsö while the Chokladboll was similarly flawed by being all Cocoa and almost no Oats or shredded Coconut save for the outside.
At this point with only a few half-items set aside, the fact that neither a filled Donut nor Pie with a sidecar of Vanilla Bean Anglaise was likely to travel well something that probably should have been considered earlier, suffice it to say that “saving the best for last” still proved to be a good choice despite being well-sated as the Custard inside sugared Dough was thick and rich without being too sweet while the buttery Shell full of toasted Nuts and Caramel was essentially a supersized Notknappare made even better by its creamy Condiment.
Smoked Moose Heart, Cow’s Milk Cheese, 24-month Ham
Bird Liver Mousse, Smoked Trout with Brown Butter Caramel, Cream Cheese, hand-churned Butter
House Sourdough, Rye Bread
Cloudberry Preserves, Cured Cod Roe, Seaweed Salt
Fresh Yogurt
Linseed, Barley and Oat Porridge
Dogges Syltkaka
Waking up early, memories of the Meal which ended just five hours prior still fresh, it was with GPS in hand that a lengthy jog around the Fäviken Estate got started, Järpen’s landscape in full bloom during a time of year when the sun never really sets and nearly fifteen miles of gravel paths with a view of the mountains in Åre helping to build-up quite an appetite for what many traveling gourmands consider to be one of the World’s great Breakfasts.
Returning to the hotel for a warm shower and packing, the 09h00 meal followed by 11h00 check-out and a lengthy drive, it was once again upon arrival to the lounge that guests were led up to the same table they’d occupied the previous night, several familiar faces both amongst the guests and staff present with many items already in place forming quite a spread.
Priced at a modest 250 SEK per person, this in addition to the 2000 SEK overnight accommodations actually a deal considering both location and what is offered, it was with complimentary Coffee poured that servers explained each item as light instrumental music played overhead, everything save for Honey-sweetened Juice made on-site and encouragement provided to start with a soft boiled Egg that was still warm.
Moving next to a collection of Charcuterie and Spreads, the Trout Rillettes particularly memorable given initial sweetness that smoothly transitions to smoke, it was atop housemade Rye Bread that this as well as creamy Liver was spread while slices of Ham, Moose Heart and Cheese stacked better on Fäviken’s Sourdough, though in reality all were probably best consumed on their own so that Bread could instead be saved for every last smear of Butter.
Introducing two additional items after a Coffee Refill, tangy Yogurt with a thin skin on top nicely paired to chunky Cloudberry Jam, it was without finding much use for a lump of cured Fish Eggs nor Salt fortified with Seaweed that thick Porridge was plopped in a bowl, the lack of sweetness relieved by lots of Butter and nuttiness while warm Thumbprint Cookies offered a crispy rim and jammy center to finish.
2014 Jean-Marc Vincent Puligny-Montrachet Corvee des Vignes, Cote de Beaune, France
House Sourdough, hand-churned Butter
Scallop “I skalet ur elden” cooked over burning Juniper Branches
King Crab and almost burnt Cream
Perch steamed with wild Leaves and Flowers from around Fäviken, a disk of Butter flavored with Garum, Cooking Juices
Sourdough Pancake, Seaweed, Beef Butter
Lupin Curd Gratin
Mahogany Clam with frozen Lingonberries
A small Egg coated in Ash, Sauce made from dried Trout and pickled Marigold
Aged Apple and molded Milk
Asparagus cooked in fermented Pear Juice from last year, Oat Sauce
Veal and “Tasty Paste”
Veal Livertoast
Colostrum with Meadowsweet
Raw Jerusalem Artichoke, darkly roasted Cereals
Potato Dream
Silage Ice Cream
Rhubarb baked in Pearl Sugar, very fresh Cottage Cheese
Coffee
Raspberry Ice
Bone Marrow Pudding, Frozen Milk
Pickled semi-dried Root vegetables
Reindeer and Birch Pie
A wooden box filled with Tar Pastilles, Meadowsweet Candy, dried Rowanberries, Smoked Caramel, Sunflower Nougat, dried Black Currant
Aromatic Seeds
Duck Eggnog
While the phrase “destination Restaurant” gets thrown around rather liberally in this era of lists and Netflix documentaries it would be impossible to consider Magnus Nilsson’s Fäviken Magasinet anything less, the sixteen seats located in an old farmhouse amidst some 20,000 acres of trees and fields as coveted a reservation as any today and the experience from arrival at 16h00 until after midnight one that has left many diners calling it the most memorable meal they have ever had.
Officially under Nilsson’s toque for ten years, the fact that the Fäviken estate was actually established sometime in the late 1800s not really surprising to those who take the opportunity to explore its grounds during their stay, it is upon arrival between two burning fires that guests are greeted by one of the Restaurant’s staff, those fortunate enough to spend the night soon escorted to a room for two with shared sauna, showers and restrooms.
Rustic yet romantic and refined without ever feeling stuffy, the all-in price for two with a couple glasses of Wine somewhere around $1300 notwithstanding, it is from complimentary Sodas and Elk Sausage or Beer and Wine charged on the honor system that guests are invited to snack before Dinner, a prompt start at 19h00 finding the whole staff including Magnus himself present in the downstairs lounge where guests are seated in a variety of comfortable couches and chairs.
Known to be a lengthy menu of small bites with brisk pacing, a Sommelier-suggested house Champagne from Fleury kicking off a flurry of nibbles in the lounge, it was using crispy Linseed Crackers to scoop up Dip made from Blue Mussels that dinner got underway, the up-front brininess quickly followed by locally foraged Mycelium prepared as a Tea and poured over squeaky housemade Cheese.
Not changing the menu as often as one might assume from a Restaurant of Fäviken’s caliber, the strict reliance on items from the Estate with few notable exceptions likely part of the reason, it was following a Cracker topped in pickled Root Vegetables that Nilsson’s Trout Roe in Pig’s Blood and fried Pig’s Head arrived, both bites rich, salty and nicely paired to brisk bubbles while the Bird’s Liver Custard proved too funky for some guests, though the Gooseberries did an admirable job of tempering the minerality in comparison to what it likely was in its natural state.
Finishing up downstairs with Charcuterie from an old Hog before heading to the main dining room, only those guests dining at the communal table left behind, it was with Nilsson as the guide that guests passed by his famous Wolves’ fur coat en route to well-spaced tables surrounded by hanging meats and herbs, the Sommelier once again coming through with a full-bodied glass of White Burgundy that went well with everything that followed up until Dessert.
Serving the same warm Bread and salty Butter as Krus throughout the evening, an empty plate occasionally seeming as though it spawned another slice given the fluidity of service, it was mere moments after getting situated that Nilsson’s clapped hands announced the arrival of Fäviken’s signature dish, a baby’s fist-size Scallop served in its liquid with a hint of smoke and shortly thereafter followed by nearly wrist-thick King Crab Leg gently cooked and intended to be dragged through charred cream nearly as thick as the table Butter.
Not following a true “Tasting Menu” format, dishes typically growing richer but not always larger, it was after steamed Perch caught from a nearby pond that dinner reverted to a series of small bites, a tiny Pancake with umami far bigger than its size would indicate trailed by local Flowers made into a Curd and Bruleed on top, the bitter floral notes intriguing more than delicious but making sense in the context of a local Clam topped in Lingonberry Granitee served as follow-up.
With one of the Sous presenting course fourteen, a confession that technique here was perhaps more important than the taste admittedly seeming a bit pretentious, it was by a rubbery Bird’s Egg with crust peeled away and dipped in boldly flavored Paste that diner’s mouths were quickly coated in rich Yolk, the taste actually quite pleasant, as too was a heavily charred Apple carved tableside and presented with Sour Cream reminiscent “molded Milk.”
Growing plates again in terms of size as the “main course” approached, a stalk of Asparagus nearly as thick as the Crab Leg showing off sourcing as much as skill in its simple presentation, it was with two preparations of freshly slaughtered Veal that savories came to a conclusion, the Loin and Breast tender and rich with a housemade condiment of dried Herbs and Leaves while Toast spread with Liver Mousse was intense but also just sweet enough to serve as a logical transition to Dessert.
Again scaling back at this point, edible ‘shots’ of Colostrum steeped with Meadowsweet giving way to thinly sliced Sunchoke and Grain ‘jam’ Sandwiches, it was as another Sous churned away with a rickety old Ice Cream maker that other staff presented tiny Potato “Dream” Cookies that crackled and disappeared with a sweet linger soon to be replaced by the herbal yet pleasant taste of Grass.
Offering one full-size Dessert before transitioning back to the lounge, whole Rhubarb cut from its Pearl Sugar Crust and brushed with Butter and Sugar before adding several local Herbs and Flowers, it was on arrival downstairs that Coffee carrying a nickel-and-dimey 60 SEK surcharge was poured, quickly-melting Raspberry “Ice” another interesting idea as it was served like a Candy while the Bone Marrow Pudding set ablaze and extinguished by frozen Milk was intensely boozy at first with later bites creamy, sweet and comforting.
Not done yet, a box of “Pickled semi-dried Root vegetables” not unlike all-natural Sourpatch Kids arriving alongside Mignardises and a circle of candied Seeds, it was with a tiny Reindeer Jerky Pie that was simultaneously saline, sugary and smoky that a tall glass of housemade Duck Egg Eggnog was poured, the Rum less than subtle but every rich sip well worth drinking.
Allowed to linger over Coffee as long as one might like, housemade Snus plus a selection of Cigars or Spirits available to those so inclined, it was after a brief stroll in the midnight sun and a visit to the teepee that guests were bid farewell by Chef Nilsson as he walked down the road in street clothes, other members of the staff sticking around longer to chat while still more were involving themselves in tasks to be ready for next day’s Breakfast.
Located approximately half-way between the city of Åre and Fäviken it was in order to pass some time before Check-in that two guests stopped at Åre Chokladfabrik, the sizable building at Björnänge 801 containing not only a retail store and manufacturing facilities but also a Coffee Bar and plenty of Samples.
Originally opened in 1991 and since growing their product line to include upwards of twenty Truffles plus Meltaways, Ice Cream and Brittle including some Vegan and Sugar-Free options it was after tasting several items including unique seasonal flavors that choices were made, a sizable tube of creamy Goat Milk Caramels taken overseas as a souvenir while Strawberry-Rhubarb Ice Cream eaten in-store was unfortunately less smooth than ideal though the Fruit flavors were sweet and bright.
Small Potatoes boiled in Water with plenty of Salt, a side of Butter
Clafoutis of Rhubarb
Soft Serve Ice Cream Made from really good Milk
With check-in at Fäviken beginning at 16h00 it was in Åre that several hours were spent on Friday afternoon, the ciiy best-known for its ski resort fairly quiet on the first day of June but Magnus Nilsson’s Krus fully operational and no longer a pop-up but instead an all-day eatery focused on traditional Swedish dishes plus Bread, Charcuterie and Fika.
Originally opened late 2017 but quickly making an impact, Nilsson’s The Nordic Cookbook forming a backbone of recipes executed with local Meats and Produce, guests entering Krus will quickly find themselves greeted by ladies behind a long counter, the low ceilings making everything about the place feel intimate while a comfortable dining room with toasters on each table beckons to the left.
Arranged for counter-ordering during the day with a broader menu and table service at Dinner, reservations apparently strongly recommended during busier seasons, it was after being informed that Pate had already sold out for the day that an order was assembled, the balance between tasting a lot and not being full at dinner initially a bit difficult to gauge but portions thankfully small and generally offering good value.
Beginning each table with complimentary Housemade Bread and the same golden Butter gracing tables at Nilsson’s Michelin two-star Magasinet, the ability to warm each slice well-advised, it was with two morning Pastries including a Parisian-quality Almond Croissant both showing well that Charcuterie and Sausage arrived, the former a product of Fäviken’s partnership with nearby Underaker and the Isterband rich and texturally compelling with a particularly snappy Casing.
Waiting a bit longer for fried bits of Cod caught nearby, this appetizer and a side of boiled Potatoes faultlessly executed though certainly not a revelation, it was in follow-up that a brined and grilled Chicken in its Juices was delivered, the fact that it was still too hot to touch almost cruel as guests risked burned hands and mouth to get to crispy Skin and supple Flesh as quickly as possible.
Rounding out the visit with two Desserts, a Rhubarb Clafoutis nicely flavored but not baking up as custard-y in porcelain as it tends to in cast iron, it seemed rather “hipster” that Krus offers Soft Serve as an option but immediately upon tasting one bite the reason and menu’s description are both evident thanks to restrained sweetness and a palate-coating texture.
As born and raised Americans it was with no knowledge of Barbro Margareta Svensson’s life or career that two guests sat down for Fika at Lill Babs Caffar on Friday morning, the recently deceased native of Järvsö’s music playing in stereo across several floors of a space that is as much a museum as it is a Restaurant.
Located at 61 Turistvaegen, a fairly busy road that primarily acts as the main route to and through Järvsö, guests entering Lill-Babs beginning at 10am daily will quickly be greeted in a retail store and Bakery, early arrivals likely to find at least a few items warm and service quite pleasant.
Offering Coffee and Tea in addition to Sandwiches, Salads and Pastries, sweets being the focus of an order en route to Åre, it was for a modest sum that five choices were plated and placed on a tray, both the Kardemumma Bulle and a similar item without Spices offering a golden surface overlying springy insides rich with Yeast and Butter.
Moving next to a local specialty known as Järvsölak, the texture and taste both nearly identical to a traditional Chocolate-dipped Macaroon, it was unfortunate that the Chokladboll was only rolled in Coconut but did not contain any, the texture thus largely like a Truffle and not compelling like the multi-layered Walnut Brownie that followed.
Attempting to divide a lengthy drive from Stockholm to Åre into two parts it was based on good word of mouth that a night was booked at Brostugans Bed & Breakfast in Järvsö, early summer still finding both the hotel and surrounding area quiet with a room for two actually the only one occupied on the day of arrival.
Independently owned and operated, a nightly cost of around 875 SEK including accomodations and Breakfast for two, it was after a pleasant night’s sleep and long jog around the city that the dining area was found laid out with a sizable spread including housemade and storebought items, the Coffee bold and plentiful while Tea and Juice were also offered and first bites focused on a loaf of housemade Rye that was sliced to preferred thickness and served either plain or toasted.
Offering additional Rolls and Crackers plus hardboiled Eggs, Charcuterie and Spreads, the Liver rich and creamy while Kalles “Kaviar” and additional tubes of Meat define “acquired taste,” it was to two flavors of liquid Yogurt that an array of Cereals and Museli were added, the Summer Berry a bit too artificially sweet while the Vanilla was good on its own and all the moreso with Raspberry Jam that apeared to be housemade compared to other flavors such as Strawberry and Orange Marmalade with labels on the bottle.
Taking an opportunity to try traditional Pickled Herring, a one and done sort of deal at least in terms of the sort that come in a store-bought jar, it was with Pickles, Cheese and a bit more Ham that the palate was cleansed before finishing up with steamy Oats made with milk plus a crisp “Angel” Cookie that came warm from the oven with the rest packed up to go compliments of the house.
Located just twenty minutes from a Bed and Breakfast in Järvsö it was shortly after checking in that two guests arrived at Orbaden Spa & Resort, the summertime destination still not in full swing with many local attractions opening mid-month and the Hotel at low capacity, as too was the on-site Restaurant.
Known more so for its scenery than the food, panoramic views of a nearby lake visible throughout a sizable dining room that would only seat three parties on Thursday night for a Prix Fixe meal, it was shortly after checking in that a thin server featuring a “flock of seagulls” haircut escorted guests to their tables, his English better than a colleague presumably given the title of ‘sever’ though his ability to actually perform tasks such as presenting dishes, clearing plates and refilling water was questionable.
Offering no options for the three courses, weekends apparently blossoming to a larger a la carte array, it was with Rye Crisps and slightly sweet Bread plus Butter that things got started, a plate of imported cured Beef presented in follow-up decent but not particularly “Swedish” nor better than what one might find in a typical Delicatessen.
Moving next to a filet of Char, the skin-on Fish nicely seared and meaty but not particularly crisp on the surface, it was after a nearly thirty minute delay as the lone server seated and poured Wine for a party of twelve that dessert finally arrived, the small portion of Creme Brulee not noteworthy in the least nor were sugared Berries, though a scoop of Elderflower Sorbet offered a pleasant finish.
Told by some that driving from Stockholm to Fäviken was foolish while most Swedes seemed to agree that a ride through the wilderness in Summer would justify time spent by scenery it was after a few hours of lush landscapes that the car arrived in Gävle, the waterside municipality of 100,000 looking a lot like many European cities of similar size and proving to be a worthwhile stop for Food thanks to Épi Bageri & Café.
No doubt the “big fish in a small pond” of local gathering spots, a store along Norra Kungsgatan easily accessible from the bustling public square found fairly empty an hour before closing, it was with a lone employee present that items were perused and selections made at prices approximately 20% less than the Stockholm average, only a few minute’s wait dividing payment from the delivery of a Brie and fresh Produce atop toasted housemade Bread topped and dotted in Seeds.
Sipping minty Water with a touch of Lemon, a flavor refreshing with the Sandwich though far less so alongside sweeter selections, it was after obtaining a fresh glass of tap from the downstairs restroom that better bites were taken of a Cinnamon Roll that proved somewhat dry nine hours after baking, the thin wedge of Coconut Cake proving a far better choice thanks to its toasty top atop a buttery base that seemed as though it was made from Almond Flour.
A bit limited so late in the day, Social Media comments about Épi lacking seating indicative of early morning and lunch rushes, it was with two Chocolate choices that tasting came to a close, the Chokladboll low in Coconut but texturally heterogeneous thanks to plenty of Oats while a wedge of “Veganbit med Notter” offered dense Ganache supporting Hazelnuts atop a crisp crust that was pleasantly bitter.
Made aware just twenty-four hours before departing Stockholm of Sophie’s Canelé it was for part three of Breakfast that the small shop was visited, a listed opening time off 08h30 apparently meaningless as the Café’s eponymous item was nowhere to be found at 09h20 when the young clerk quoted ‘about an hour’ till they were done…an hour that in reality meant about 140 minutes due to reported “oven problems.”
Located at Sankt Eriksgatan 81 and thus in close proximity to other eateries on the day’s agenda, a one stop ride on the Metro bringing two guests back both before and after lunch to check on Sophie’s progress, it was during the first of these two stops that four items who apparently survived oven issues were tasted, the Almond Croissant an unmitigated disaster dripping with Frangipane while a Kouign Amann oddly baked in paper fared only slightly better thanks to poor separation of its buttery layers.
Heartened by Praline Brioche that those from Lyon would be proud of plus a Cardamom Bun that used a Muffin pan to its advantage in creating good rise beneath plenty of spice it was finally around 13h00 that two Canelé with a third gifted “for your patience,” a nice gesture but not enough to justify so much effort to taste a Pastry that was merely average, the shell not nearly hard enough and easily dented by the fingers though the Custard inside was fairly close to textbook in terms of taste and texture.
An annual recipient of Michelin Bib Gourmand status it was for one last taste of Stockholm that two sat down inside Rolfs Kök, a space many consider to be one of the city’s best values at lunch proving to be just that, though those looking for any sort of comfort or personal space should probably consider someplace else.
Located at Tegnérgatan 41 and serving from 11h30 on weekdays with Dinner beginning at 17h00 seven days a week those visiting Rolfs at any time day or night are strongly encouraged to have a reservation or be prepared to wait outside next to the Chaîne des Rôtisseurs emblem, a limited number of window seats clearly saved for regulars as even an online reservation the second they became available was not enough to secure one for two tourists.
Offering a two-course prix-fixe for 158 SEK each day, an additional seven “Everyday” items offered from the seasonal Dinner Menu, it was with room temperature water poured and businessmen speaking English on both sides that decisions were made before indulging in Bread impaled on a spike, the soft Rolls still warm from the oven and surprisingly dainty in a city where most other offerings were thick Sourdough or toothsome Rye.
Happily gilding Bread with silky Butter and then dipping it into Tomato Soup, the day’s appetizer thinner than what one commonly sees Stateside, it was with the shallow bowl soon empty that main plates arrived, the daily special of Meatloaf essentially Swedish Meatballs in another form with a looser grind and more richness while Rolfs’ famous Ox Cheeks were every bit as good as others suggest, spoon tender and bathed in Red Wine Sauce a French Master would be proud of while the Truffle-perfumed Potatoes were also world class.
Located just up the way from Kafé Esaias it was at Café Pascal that five additional Fika were ordered on Thursday morning, everything about the experience a 180ᵒ change as the space was humming with activity while servers seemed downright joyous whether brewing Coffee or plating Pastries.
Occupying a cozy corner at Norrtullsgatan 4, Odenplan Station and a sizable Park generating plenty of foot traffic even on a weekday, guests entering Café Pascal will likely be met by a small line amidst the spacious interior, items continuously coming out from the kitchen to replenish those in short supply and suggesting early is a good time arrive as one might find themselves purchasing something still warm from the oven.
Not quite as traditional as many of Stockholm’s more storied spaces, everything from Croissants to Avocado Toast joining items such as Kardemumma Bulle, it was based only on the fact that two types of Croissant had just been placed on racks that dining began with one of each, the sliced and filled one with Custard and Berries decent but already compromised by sogginess while the Chocolate Almond version was warm and wondrous thanks to a shattering shell, thick and gooey Filling plus excellent lamination.
Moving onward to a squared-off Cinnamon Roll, the coil softening as it unraveled to reveal layers of Cinnamon and Butter until it reached a puffy center, it was on similar Dough cut from a pan that Café Pascal’s Toscabulle was upgraded by plenty of Nuts and caramelized Sugar while the Kardemumma Bulle some call Stockholm’s best was a little too “Dinner Roll” in terms of texture when compared to the likes of Magnus Johansson or Åsö Konditori.
