Located steps from Firenze Duomo La Strega Nocciola is a popular stop for both locals and tourists, the brick interior and magical name feeling older than it is while natural production methods insure quality.
Decorated shabby-chic across a small footprint, pleasant servers scooping from metal cylinders 12h00 to 20h00 daily, traditional flavors dominate a list of perhaps two-dozen and whether one selects pure Fior de Panna or Pistachio textures are smooth containg restrained sweetness.
Named for the nearby bridge Gelateria La Carraia has been serving Florence since 1990, a second location doing little to attenuate queues for Gelato made the old way and served by pleasant staff for just €1 per spatula.
Family owned with a small footprint, just seventeen flavors in metal canisters behind glass, guests make their selections amidst striped wallpaper before taking cones or cups outside to enjoy along the river.
Popular for Semifreddo, though no less so for the Gelato itself, fans will find the base creamy but light and whether flecked with Coconut or harnessing Nuts each bite tastes pure thanks to a lack of preservatives or excess Sugar.
Opened in 1980 by Ruggero Corsi, at the edge of Florence near Porta Romana, this tiny Trattoria is locally loved thanks to a focus on traditional Tuscan cuisine plus an extensive cellar of affordable Wines to match.
Not an easy place to walk-in, the L-shaped footprint holding perhaps two dozen diners, guests instead confirm reservations made by phone before occupying wood seats, a pour of house Chianti soon to follow alongside three types of Bread in a basket.
Wood-lined with white tablecloths, tables nearly touching, Trattoria Ruggero proposes a seasonal menu focused on history and season, a plate of Charcuterie plus chopped Liver Toast similar to others while a Salad of Chicories finds bitterness balanced by Anchovy Dressing.
Predictably offering Tuscan T-Bones served bloody, a sizable cut for six at an adjacent table, those seeking something lighter should consider Tortellini served in clear Broth with depth or hand-cut Tagliatelle served simply amidst Aspargus and Butter.
Tempted by another Steak, more affordable than most, it was on the recommendation of neighbors that spoon-tender Roast Pork instead arrived as Secondi with a side of Potatoes, the extra capacity saved for crumbly Cake and a caramelized Apple from the oven soaked in Syrup.
Now with two locations, the first outside central Florence but that at Piazza Beccaria 7 more convenient, Gelateria de’ Medici exudes old-world charm thanks to dark wood and crystal chandeliers surrounding 40+ daily flavors.
Making Gelato the old-fashioned way, a Fior di Latte base infused with nothing but the best Ingredients, it is inside that guests will encounter friendly service plus everything from Gelato Cakes to Fruits hollowed and filled with their own creamy concoction.
Most certainly a place to sample the classics, Pistachio offering Bronte’s best without a lot of added Sugar, “Riso” reminisces of Horchatta minus Cinnamon while Zabaione is faultless thanks to an eggy undertone and top notes of Marsala.
Loved by locals and Tripadvisor Forno Ghibellina has been serving Florence since 1890, a spacious interior unexpected from the street greeting guests who seek friendly servers offering a wide range of Breads, Beverages and Pastries.
Situated on the street for which it is named, modern insides including a bar showing no signs of 130+ years, it is with Espresso downed that many exit the space with Cornetti in hand though for those with a bit of time a Pistachio-filled version justifies a napkin and fork.
Less impressed by Sfogliatelle that break too briskly around Custard, a dollop of which can be found atop a textbook Zeppoli sandwiching Cream, it was on the recommendation of a woman at the register that an Almond Tart showed well thanks to a supple crumb sweetened by Marzipan.
Positioned in a sizable two-story space along the Amo Bottega di Pasticceria has both parking and seating uncommonly seen at Italian Pastry shops, the package as a whole quite impressive and matched by elegant traditional cakes as well as Viennoiserie.
One of two shops owned locally by Simone Bartolini, once manager of The Uffizi Gallery Cafe, it is inside that guests will find savories as well as sweets matched to Coffee or Wine, everything carefully crafted such that Pistachio Cornetti shatter to the tooth while Nutella Brioche is soft and springy.
Offering both traditional and filled Sfogliatelle, not on par with Naples but nonetheless enjoyable, Torta di Riso fares well thanks to a delicate shell while a Ricotta Tart likens Basque Cheesecake thanks to a bit of char.
A national building purchased by Giorgio Pinchiorri in 1972 Enoteca Pinchiorri carries all the excesses one might expect from a Michelin 3* Restaurant, from the 16 page Water menu to a €1950 3-Wine pairing and housemade Breads matching each course.
Currently toqued by Riccardo Monco while Maître D Alessandro Tomberli directs gratuitously accommodating service it is atop plush seats that diners are invited to dine a la carte or as a €310 degustazione, the latter served at a pace accommodating those who eat both slow and fast.
An opulent space filled with oil paintings and flowers, all of it mirrored by grandiose plates full of color, it is after selecting beverages that Canapes arrive as a rainbow of textures and flavors including a Squid Ink Beignet and Black Cabbage Tartelette with Quinoa.
Cherished by oenophiles thanks to Pinchiorri’s extensive cellar, though a few bargains can also be found, late-Winter’s tasting began with a warm Oyster perfumed by Laurels before progressing through a thin piece or Squid atop Uni and sheeted Pasta with White Pheasant Ragout plus earthy Bechamel.
Frequently veering far from Italy for Ingredients as well as inspiration, and thereby stripping away some of the ‘terroir’ that makes many eateries of Enoteca Pinchiorri’s caliber unique, Sauteed Snails in a Mousse of Sunchoke is nonetheless delicious while Turbot is unfortunately lost beneath all the ingredients on top.
Increasingly complex with Duck Breast bathed in Passion Fruit alongside creamy Foie Gras the latter half of the menu is highlighted by a “Cheese Course” featuring Polenta plus Castelmagno while Desserts are elegant and enjoyable but “Italian” in no way.
Declining the Cheese Cart, but not an impressive collection of Mignardises, it was after a thirty minute wait that the check arrived with a take-home gift and thanks, though no lasting impact as this sort of Food can be found at many Michelin 2* or 3* establishments nowadays.
Inferno – Porchetta con Cremina Piccante, Eggplant, Arugula
Bada Come La Fuma – Pancetta, Gorgonzola, Honey
Expanding akin to any other Social Media savvy brand it is under the leadership of Tommaso Mazzanti that All’Antico Vinaio has grown outside of Florence, where three shops have been drawing crowds of locals and tourists since the early 90s.
“Home of the world’s best Sandwiches” per Saveur, and now with three New York locations plus one in SoCal and Las Vegas, guests visiting the original location can expect a brief queue to taste housemade Schiacciata wrapped around Italian ingredients at half the price one pays stateside.
Impossible to miss thanks to Tommaso’s embrace of everything from tripadvisor to TikTok guests will find several signatures plus seasonal specials and Wine poured at the register, both Inferno and Bada Come La Fuma under €10 but large enough to provide a filling meal for one.
Operating without a website or PR for over 150 years Trattoria Sostanza is something of an institution, and although locals may gripe that the Restaurant has become overrun with tourists those with the prudence to book one of six tables will discover textbook Tuscan cuisine served by a pleasant staff.
Not remotely fancy, the bar up front doubling as a prep-station for Dessert and cashier, it is surrounded by family photos that house Wine is poured liberally prior to the arrival of bread made fresh and replenished on request.
Known for signatures including Bistecca alla Fiorentina, according to some the best in town, an antipasti of sliced Salumi compares favorably to many while Tortellini en Brodo split to share comes hazy but packed savory notes and a vegetal finish.
Sporting an open kitchen, its small size comparable to Sostanza itself, both the Artichoke Omelette (labeled “Pie”) and Chicken in Butter Sauce are highly-regarded for good reason while Meringue Cake with Chocolate Chips and Wild Strawberries is a textural masterpiece.
Now 81 with Pasticceria throughout Italy those who call Iginio Massari “King of Pastries” or the “World’s Best Pastry Chef” are certainly within their rights, especially as his Galleria on the ground floor of the Helvetia & Bristol Hotel in Florence continues to generate long lines daily.
Drawn to Pastry from a young age, and working in kitchens now for nearly seventy years, it is inside modern confines that guests discover all sorts of Viennoiserie as well as leavened Breads formed by hand from nothing but the area’s best Ingredients.
More pricey than local artisans, though certainly not unrealistic as items such as a faultless Veneziane cost only €2, those arriving to Via dei Vecchietti 3 early will note Sfogliata with various fillings including creamy Pistachios alongside a delicate Pastry brushed with Butter and packed with Rice Pudding.
Perhaps best known for Roman Maritozzi, often dressed up for special occasions, Massari feature Brioche so light that it almost seems impossible surrounding a choice of Custard or ethereal Pastry Cream.
Serving Florence since 1939 Caffé Scudieri is an institution, its unparalleled vantage of Piazza del Duomo pairing with professional service and an interior that defines luxury through crystal, leather and marble.
Located at the corner of Via dei Cerretani with early hours, many opting for an Espresso and Cornetto to go, it is inside that a selection of Pastries resides behind glass ranging from Frittelle filled with Custard to Ham and Cheese on Viennoserie.
Pulling shots fast, a complex roast with notes of Caramel, fans of Zeppoli will find Scudieri’s a textural masterpiece with restrained sweetness while the Torta della Nonna arrives rustic and sizable with a hint of Citrus atop the Shortbread Crust.
Also offering proper plates and Pasta later, both traditional and centered on tourists, Cornetti come with or without Crema and the Budino di Riso is exceptional thanks to a gently tanned skin with luscious Rice Pudding beneath.
Since 1880 Buca Lapi has been a part of Florence, the vaulted Palazzo Antinori cellar lined in posters while formally dressed servers play well to crowds comprised mostly of tourists seeking an “Authentic” Tuscan meal.
Maintained through slow restoration, old lampshades scribbled with the names of visitors adding to its charm, diners will find white tablecloths plus an extensive Wine list from which Reds such as house Chianti are more pricey than similar local eateries.
The oldest Restaurant in town, and arguably the most straightforward, all tables begin with basic Bread followed by Antipasti including Salads or Soup and Charcuterie including warm Liver on Toast.
Known to make all Pastas on-site, Pappardelle with Wild Boar Ragu frankly underseasoned while signature Cannelloni eat richer thanks to Cheese and Cream, most tables will splurge for €70 Bistecca alla Fiorentina served Rare while Veal Meatballs are overworked and forgettable.
Crema Gelato, Buontalenti Al Mascarpone Gelato, Pistachio Gelato, Cone
Straccialetta Gelato, Cone
Housed in a former palace along the Amo Gelateria Santa Trinita opened in 2008, a focus on pure flavors made properly plus some social media savvy quickly moving them towards the top of Florence’s competitive Gelato scene.
Adjacent Santa Trinita Bridge, with an Emporio next door focused on Artisan goods, it is withing the Gelateria that guests will fin everything from Cakes to forty flavors such as Straccialetta and Pistachio featuring nuts from Bronte to pure Crema, Black Sesame and airy “Buontalenti Al Mascarpone” that likens frozen Creme Chantilly.
Serving Florence since 1945 Trattoria Cammillo is where affluent locals go for homestyle cooking, though thanks to social media the space has landed on several lists with an associated influx of tourists able to make a reservation by phone since Cammillo has no website.
Cozy with white-tablecloths and veteran servers, the arched brick ceiling stretching over marble floors, diners begin to arrive around noon for lunch when the same extensive menu as dinner is served until 14h30.
Attesting to an older time, faded paintings and fixtures with a patina part of the charm, it is after perusing a large Wine list that Bread arrives followed by a selection of Cured Meats at a tab more precious than many but largely justified by the quality.
Happy to defer an order to the waiter, a man who has been with the Trattoria for two decades, Tortellini en Brodo comes in a generous portion with good depth of flavor while Homemade Tagleirini with Ham and Artichoke Sauce is mild yet enjoyable.
Faced with difficult decisions for Secondi, a number of plates featuring Offal juxtaposing Florentine classics, fans of Rabbit will find Cammillo fried version satisfying while Trippa alla fiorentina is rigorously cleaned and cooked in Tomatoes with a hint of Vinegar and Wine.
Owned and operated by a self-taught Baker Dolci e Dolcezze has been serving Florence since the 1970s, its location on Piazza Cesare Beccaria secluded in a manner that gives everything inside and air of elegance and nostalgia.
A Cake Shop well known for Fruit Tarts, but also well-regarded for Cookies and Schiacciata, those arriving early will be happy to find items such as an hourglass shaped Pastry with Custard still warm while “Torta di Riso” takes on a different look thanks to a crisp Shell filled with Rice Pudding.
Not far from Piazza Santa Croce, a solo clerk slowed by multiple guests at 09h00, those not in the mood for a large Strawberry Tar should direct their attention to Viennoserie filled with Jam or a textbook Cornetti about to burst with Cream.
Sfogliatelle with Pistachio Cream, Sfogliatelle with Chocolate Cream
Serving Florence since 1968 Antico Forno Giglio is a neighborhood Bakery known for Tomato Pizzas and a variety of Breads, the family owned space from Emilio and Naida Nuti sparse on square meters but bountiful in terms of options from 07h00 Monday through Saturday.
Less celebrated for sweets than Rye, Schiacciata or other seasonal options guests seeking Breakfast will find a variety of Cookies plus Pasticerria while items such as Cornetti and Tortine are pillowy soft in comparison to filled Sfogliatelle that shatter to yield creamy Fillings.
Liver Toast, Cod Fish Toast, Wild Boar Tartare with Olives, Dried Pork Skin, Marinated Garlic
Bacon
Oxtail Stew
Beef Fat Potatoes
White Beans
Bistecca alla Fiorentina
Blackberry Pinenut Crostata
Torta della Nona
Espresso
A single building in the hills of Mugello, an hour outside of Florence, Antica Osteria di Nandone has been serving guests since 1909.
A destination not only as a result of its location at the top of unlit and winding roads, but also due to the Restaurant’s inclusion on the “World’s 101 Best Steak Restaurants,” it is inside the converted home that fourth generation owner Paolo Mugnai carefully cooks Bistecca alla Fiorentina plus antipasti and sides served family-style amidst rustic confines.
A historic eatery on the road that goes from Scarperia to the Giogo Pass, not something one simply happens upon, it is for just €45 that dishes arrive as ready along with house Wine and the sort of service one might expect when dining at a good friend’s house.
Utilizing only local ingredients, particularly adult Cows from nearby farms, T-Bones arrive well marbled with a crust of Salt and Pepper cooked over smoldering embers and a generous ring of fat that attests to a month or more of dry-aging.
MARGHERITA – Steamed and Oven-baked pizza with tomato sauce, buffalo mozzarella, basil and Calabrian oregano
White polenta cream with cuttlefish ink sauce and fried baby shrimp
Smoked paprika tagliatelle with butter and fresh Alajmo caviar
Duck ragu ravioli with orange butter
Puff pastry with zabaione and pears cooked in red wine
Sprawled across the Philippe Starck-designed atrium at T Fondaco dei Tedeschi guests will discover Amo, Chef Massimiliano Alajmo’s casual eatery toqued by longtime collaborator Silvio Giavedoni.
Once an exchange for goods from northern Europe to Venice, and now a shopping center for luxury goods from top brands, those entering the building near Rialto Bridge to dine will be seated in posh booths with bright colors while service is efficient but not necessarily friendly.
Still the youngest Chef ever awarded three Michelin stars, la calandre’s location just 48km away allowing Alajmo to remain involved, familiar diners will notice several ideas referencing the flagship though Fried Pizza with Mortadella and airy steamed Pizzas are also available.
Pricey in comparison to other Venetian eateries, though certainly not expensive considering the Ingredients involved, Organic Cornmeal arrives as a textural masterpiece thanks to fried Shrimp while Ravioli in Duck Ragu are elevated by fragrant Orange Butter.
Also with a grab-and-go area offering Pastries and Coffee, plus several packaged goods from Max’s kitchen, those looking for the best bites will find it in handmade Noodles bright with Paprika coiled beneath Caviar and a Millefeuille made a la minute with Pears and Zabaione.
Located on the street for which it is named Pasticceria Bar Toletta is a standing-room-only Bakery known best for embracing food allergies and intolerances, their Vegan Cornetti famous enough to sell out early while more traditional items such as the version with Butter and Pistachios are fluffy with a good crumb and plenty of filling.
Open at 07h30 on weekdays and thirty minutes later Saturday as well as Sunday it is alongside Hausbrandt Espresso that diners are invited to enjoy Maritozzi lined in Cream or Sfogliatelle made as they are in Naples with shattering layers around Ricotta and Semolina kissed by Lemon.
Popular thanks to patio seating overlooking Giudecca Canal Gelateria Nico is a family-owned establishment on Fondamenta Zattere ai Gesuati, hours from 07h30 to 18h00 every day but Thursday finding outside seats occupied with additional seats within.
Not offering Gelato before 11h00, morning better suited for Espresso and Pastries, guests will find a fairly basic selection priced higher than many, the Waffle’s visibly taken from cellophane and rewarmed while Bread topped with Ham and Cheese comes from a beg before getting pressed.
Relaxed in terms of service, well suited for those hoping to watch the sunset over an Aperol Spritz, fans of Cannoli should look elsewhere as Nico’s taste stale while the Cornetti and Rice Tart are average, at best.
