Horses
Bread and Butter
Sobrassada Panino, Honey
Potato Gnocchi, Taleggio Fonduta, Nutmeg
Saffron Pappardelle, Slow Cooked Duck Sugo
Cote de Porc, Slow Roasted Cabbage, Braised Lentils
Cheeseburger and Fries
Sheep’s Milk Cheesecake, Poached Rhubarb
Recently the Pikey, but in past decades West Hollywood’s Ye Coach & Horses, there may be no “hotter” reservation in So.Cal right now than Liz Johnson and Will Aghajanian’s Horses – and the pair are doing it with aged leather booths plus the sort of lighting that pays no attention to Social Media.
Previously found cooking at Nashville’s Catbird Seat, though Johnson may be known to locals from her time at Freedman’s, it is prior to 5:00pm that a crowd begins to gather outside 7617 Sunset Boulevard where a limited number of tables are first come first serve while the rest are booked months in advance.
A storied space left with much of its original luster, bright primary colors and the eponymous animal comprising most of Horses’ décor, it is after warm greetings that guests are led to tight tables as music overhead plays slightly below a dull roar.
Bringing in talent from Roberta’s in Brooklyn, plus GM Terence Leavey whose past includes time with Wolfgang Puck’s premier properties, Horses’ menu is concise and well explained by cordial staff who are happy to make recommendations prior to delivering piping hot Bread and an enormous molded plate of Cultured Butter.
Bistro French with California sensibility, $13 for eight bites of Honey-slicked Bread wrapped around spicy Sobrassada but one example, Pastas act better as an Appetizer or mid-course than Entrée with the focus quite clearly on technique and flavor rather than fancy plating.
Well worn in a good way, paper on the tables and aged wood contributing to a throw-back feel, dainty Gnocchi give way to Saffron Pappardelle with funky Duck Sugo on the current menu while a $28 Cheeseburger only seems excessive until teeth pierce thick Tartare-tender aged Beef cooked medium-rare beneath Wisconsin Cheddar plus Onions both raw and caramelized.
Not forgetting Fries that are thin, crisp and liberally salted, Aghajanian’s Herb-crusted Pork Chop earns every accolade it has been given thanks to unparalleled juiciness and perfectly rendered Fat, though its sizable portion including seasonal sides suggests it is best ordered to share so that one can save room for Horses’ remarkable Sheep’s Milk Cheesecake that makes up for sweetness with creaminess alongside assertive Rhubarb.
www.horsesla.com

