Blackberry Tamales – masa coconut cream sherbet, marionberry sherbet
Chocolate Champurrado w/ Sesame Toffee – Cloudforest chocolate and masa ice cream, sesame seed palanqueta
Familiar with Salt & Straw since a trip to Portland in 2013, three visits in a week plus five to follow in Los Angeles, Pasadena, Venice and Vegas it was midday Tuesday that the UnCommons location was visited, October’s holiday specials showing commitment to culture and quality.
Offering all the old favorites, plus fun specials such as “Jack o’ Lantern Pumpkin Bread” or “Blackberry Tamales,” next year can’t come soon enough as “The Great Candycopia” remains one of Salt & Straw undeniably best scoops thanks to a Butterscotch base speckled by various housemade Chocolate Candies.
Family owned and operated from the start, Dominic Sang bringing family recipes from a Texas Doughnuttery to Sin City in October 2015, guests entering Glaze Doughnuts will notice little has since changed about the shop in nearly 8 years while a soft base and creative toppings earn “Best of Las Vegas” accolades annually.
Located on Fort Apache Road, fair prices and friendly service undoubtedly part of Glaze’s appeal, what the shop lacks in selection is more than made up for in quality compared to the likes of Dunkin, Krispy Kream or other spots nearby.
Largely built on Yeast Rings, though undersized Fritters perform admirably, fans of simplicity will find Maple Frosting far more subtle than most while Chocolate and Vanilla Glaze are also of excellent quality with or without additions such as Cereal or Candy.
Not over-the-top, but balanced and complex, crunchy Pearls and Nuts dazzle atop a fluffy leavened base dazzle while Coconut and Ube do the same, though if one is seeking Glaze’s top choice the decision comes down to Blueberry Cinnamon Toast, Churros and Horchata or Matcha Green Tea Pistachio that delivers sweetness beneath toasty notes.
RICOTTA HOTCAKES – nutella, banana, honeycomb butter, maple syrup
For a place that could get by on it’s stunning Pacific views Élephante from Wish You Were Here Group is serving up an impressive brunch at bargain prices relative to the setting.
A renovated old Beach House, restaurateur Nicholas Mathers sourcing coastal Italian influences across the interior as well as the menu, Élephante could get by on it’s stunning Pacific views but instead opts to serve an impressive brunch at bargain prices relative to the setting.
Part of Wish You Were Here Group, guests ascending to an open rooftop once reservations are confirmed, it is amidst music and Mimosas that the kitchen turns out everything from Pizza to Pancakes at a speed that never feels rushed.
Wood-clad with decorative flourishes, Bartenders quick to send out a Mezcal Margarita, it was not long before toasted Banana Bread with restrained sweetness sat adjacent creamy Cornmeal topped in Corn, picked Crab and a poached Organic Egg for just $16.
Cooled by Ocean breeze and fans, most diners dressed casually save for a few 20-somethings in couture, dinner’s Spicy Vodka Sauce finds itself on the Brunch menu atop al dente Canestri while Pizza from the wood oven has just enough char to peak out from behind honey and heat.
Passing on the signature Eggplant Spread, perhaps a mistake, airy Ricotta Flapjacks arrive three-high with Hazelnut Cream, Honeycomb Butter and the sort of Maple Syrup every Restaurant should be serving plus some sliced Bananas.
Self-described as “The World’s Freshest Doughnuts,” and personally felt to be the Nation’s premier purveyor of fried Dough ever since stumbling across the Costa Mesa flagship in 2013, it was via good fortune that Sidecar Doughnuts & Coffee was found in Culver City on Sunday, several fresh-from-the-fryer rings again demonstrating unparalleled Ingredients and smartly developed recipes.
Currently location number eight it was mostly from old favorites that four were selected, Susie’s Blueberry Pancake a mix of Maple with Fresh Fruit amidst Cake while Sage Apple Pie utilizes Brioche to make a statement better than any Crust might.
Moving next to a classic, Sidecar’s Celebration Cake showing why fryer time and temperature matters in its lightness, it should come as no surprise that when Sidecar does Pumpkin Spice it gets a little extra love with Cream Cheese drizzle and a base as delicate as it is moist.
Lobster Congee Pot Pie – poached lobster tail, fine herbs, marigold, lobster brown butter
YANGBAN Wings – cucumber and Korean radish pickles, kimchi hot sauce, black rice
YANGBAN Garlic Butter Black Rice – steamed California Koshihikari and black rice
Sujeongwa Sundae – double 8 buffalo milk soft serve, cinnamon, crystalized ginger and toasted pine nut caramel
Matang Goguma Custard Pie – roasted white sweet potato, condensed milk, vanilla, burnt sugar
YANGBAN Cheesecake – coconut biscuit and brown butter crust, coconut cream, local strawberry jam
Described as a “culinary conversation” from husband-and-wife chefs John Hong and Katianna Hong Yangban has dropped “society” and upped the ante in terms of it’s cuisine, space and service with results rivaling the best of Los Angeles.
Now fully occupying the old Bon Temps space in Downtown’s Art District, an overhead kitchen still fully visible while the dining room has undergone a modest face-lift, guests will find the former casual eatery replaced by full service and dim lighting befitting elevated Cuisine.
Still offering Modern-Korean American fare with casual flair, every member of the staff professional yet pleasant, guests will find the menu divided into sections ranging from Starters and Banchan to larger “Plates” and Sides.
Priced appropriate to Ingredients and environs, starters sold per-piece served before five Banchan for $28, Falafel proves inspired thanks to Mung Beans and Kimchi while fried Lobster and Blue Crab on a Tortilla are complex bites of fusion done right.
Not forgetting Golden Prawn Toast, as fine a composition as one will find at Saison or Brooklyn Fare, larger servings include Korean Dumplings gone “Jewish Penicillin” and Rice Cakes slick and chewy in aromatic Mushroom gravy.
Happy to find Kimchi less abrasive than many, while Honey Glazed Carrots and Yangban’s Avocado & Pear Salad benefit from California’s bounty, the word “decadent” barely covers the Hong’s Congee Pot Pie beneath perfect Puff Pastry with what must be at least a stick of Butter.
Trained by the likes of Josiah Citrin, where the couple first met before moving to Northern California 3* Restaurant at Meadowood, Yangban Wings are most certainly not the sort of things one would describe as “Bar Food” given their crunch and complexity further magnified by housemade Pickles.
Taking it easy on fluffy Rice, a trio of Desserts making themselves mandatory, Yangban’s Sujeongwa Sundae arrives expectedly creamy thanks to a high Milk-Fat base while the signature Cheesecake standing tall with a silky texture currently finds itself outpaced by Sweet Potato Pie that eats like Southern Chess meets Creme Brulee.
Created by producer Mark Trombino, the original Highland Park location last visited in 2014, Donut Friend DTLA sees the all-Vegan shop continuing to expand on its mission with creative choices available from 7am until 9 or 10 o’clock nightly.
Considered by some to be the best Doughnut scene in the United States, seemingly an independent mom ‘n pop shop turning out glazed rings on every corner from Pasadena to Venice, Donut Friend plies its trade with old fashioned know-how and creative flavors that change seasonally.
At one time allowing guests to customize their own fried Dough, now instead doing so via Ice Cream and Toppings near the register, staff proves educated and pleasant while describing everything from an extra crispy Fritter packed with Fruit to “Pumpkin Piebald” with Pumpkin Cake and Glaze beneath Cinnamon Crumble.
Taken best as a ‘Dessert Shop’ rather than a simple Doughnut vendor Donut Friend, much like Sidecar and Blue Star, continues to shine by way of an Old Fashioned perfumed with Nutmeg while fans of fancy stuff will find lots to love in both creamy-crunchy Youth Brulee and “Senses Fall” that eats like all the best parts of Autumn combined.
Now with some time to get acquainted, a “Grand Opening” making official what fans have already come to know, Chef Francesco Di Caudo’s Basilico Ristorante Italiano at Evora finds the native of Italy looking to add much needed modernity to Las Vegas’ Italian dining scene.
Originally encountered at Ferraro’s in 2015, contemporary ideas better suited to sophisticated palates carried over to Anima and then Di Caudo’s first solo project, it is amidst upscale décor that diners are invited to relax on comfortable red chairs with stone, wood and Wine bottles adding elegance.
Fusing inside to patio through the bar, Cocktails built on Italian Spirits offered alongside regional Wines, service is convivial but polished while describing a menu featuring housemade Pasta, Pizza and the sort of starters prone to wow.
Priced appropriate to what is offered, Dashi Braised Octopus showcasing Francesco’s willingness to explore flavors outside his motherland with precision, Basilico’s Oysters frequently focus the diner on nuances while a daily special of Langoustines shined beneath exotic Fruits and Ginger.
Continuing with Bottoni with Beef Cheeks, but not before Sea Urchin Custard alongside Bone Marrow and a cooling Chamomile palate cleanser, Bucatini also features Urchin brightened by Calabrian Sausag while Di Caudo’s impeccable Risotto now comes perfumed by Pears and Gorgonzola.
Now officially offering upright Mezze Maniche on the menu, a dish matured over the past eight years with Cinnamon and Caviar, Secondi feature Proteins perfectly cooked in the case of both skin-on Branzino and Rib Eye with bitter accouterments.
Onward to Dessert none should leave Basilico Ristorante Italiano without tasting Liquid Nitrogen Parmigiano Gelato prepared tableside, nor a recently added Almond Cake with Passionfruit, Strawberries and Chocolate.
RB Signature Tsukemen – Creamy Pork Broth, Fish Powder, Chasu Pork, Soy Cured Egg, Bamboo Shoot, Green Onion, Lemon, Naruto Fish Cake, Nori, Thick Noodle
Japanese Sweet Potato Brulee – Vanilla Ice Cream, Black Sesame Seeds
Opened in March of 2023 Ramen Boys took over for a prior occupant in Decatur Twain Shopping Center and although it may seem difficult to get excited about Noodles in such a saturated market the combination of cost quality and service is unparalleled locally.
Highly touted by influencers early on, ownership even going so far as to reach out on Yelp! And other forms of social media, it was before a concert that two guests stopped in on Tuesday around 6:00pm to find the place busy but thankfully without a wait.
Not just Noodles and Broth, but also offering Starters plus Rice Bowls and Dessert, dinner was off to a fine start thanks to servers that are pleasant and well-informed while a glass of Hokkaido Milk Tea paired nicely to golden Corn flecked with Nori and Cheese plus simple Chicken Skins with Citrus.
Sold out of Katsu, but doing a nice job with fried Squid and Chicken, fans of Takoyaki will find Ramen Boys Octopus Balls lighter than most beneath Bonito while dueling Sauces and mild sweetness and a creamy finish.
Onward to Ramen, eight varieties of Broth with three listed as “Signatures” at the top, Truffle Shoyu earns its name thanks to a good bit of preserved Tuber melanosporum surrounding springy Noodles while “RB Sinature Tsukemen” sees chilled Pasta dunked into creamy Pork Gravy ready to be customized by condiments including Pork, Eggs and Onions.
Not a place taking shortcuts, the owner stopping by to check in on tables but unfortunately out of Kakigori Ice from Japan for the season, Dessert featured a caramelized Sweet Potato topped by Vanilla Ice Cream and Sesame Seeds.
Already taking a chance by opening another KBBQ concept on Spring Mountain Mr. BBQ’s Jenny Chai doubled down in early February 2023 with Mama Chai’s, the Boba and Dessert shop joining a crowded market but hoping to succeed thanks to cute design plus quality baking.
Accessed via a separate entrance towards the rear of 4240 Spring Mountain Road, an outdoor patio and murals greeting guests, it is via digital menu that one may construct Beverages to their liking while Mochi Donuts and Cream Puffs line a Pastry case near the front.
Offering Milk or Fruit Tea, Yogurt Drinks and Frappes featuring Asian Ingredients a look at the Baked Goods spans a dozen or so flavors, the stuffed-Choux outpacing Beard Papa by a good distance whether one selects Red Velvet, spicy Mango or even Passionfruit.
Open Noon to 11pm Sunday through Thursday and an hour later on weekends the menu continues with Mochi Donuts, an idea popularized by Japan’s “pon de ring” already done far better at Mama Chai’s than by Paina Café down the road.
Made from Tapioca Flour and naturally free of Gluten, their consistency often described as bouncy or light, Jenny’s Mochi rings pull inspiration from a variety of cultures, Ferrero Rocher and Butterfinger as expected while Fall-flavors topped in airy Cream plus Butter Pecan, Caramel Apple or Pumpkin Spice further magnify the pleasantly chewy base.
www.mamachais.com / @mamachaislv on Facebook / @mamachais_lv on Instagram
Formerly Botero, but now a breakfast and brunch eatery overlooking one of Encore’s pools, Jardin targets a well-heeled clientele with health-conscious fare plus some more indulgent items for those who choose to partake.
Designed like a conservatory, outdoor seats necessitating a wait even for those with reservations, guests should anticipate being looked down upon by hostesses and managers while servers themselves are pleasant but perfunctory in terms of their interactions.
Offering a fairly broad menu, everything from Cocktails to Pizzas, Salads and Bennys sold for Wynn prices, Brunch began with a shareable Sticky Bun topped in Pecans drizzled by Caramel.
Described as “seasonal,” though the menu does not appear to have changed much in years, Steak & Eggs is simple but well prepared and served with Hash Browns while Red Velvet Pancakes “do it for the #gram” as Crème Anglaise poured tableside dissolves Cotton Candy into a thick and sweet Sauce.
Chosen for a Birthday, the online reservations system offering a check-box for such, it was a surprise when the check came alongside Jardin’s Flower Pot Chocolate Cake featuring rich layers and beautiful design at no additional cost.
CLASSIC CHEESECAKE – whipped cream, pecans, graham cracker crust, gooseberry
Replacing Lucky Penny with California-inspired “comfort Food with a contemporary twist” Serrano Vista Café opened in Summer 2022, The Palms foray into 24/7 dining outpacing other similar concepts thanks to a diverse menu from Chefs Gonzalo Garzo, Edwin Luna and Marcus O’Brien.
Located at the resort’s east-most end without much signage it is from the podium that the space spans large with grab n’ go choices at the front including Sandwiches, Salads and Pastries from Chef Tammy Alana as well as Purple Potato Bakery.
Decorated in a nondescript style with neon and art, pop music playing overhead from the 80s to now, it is once seated that service proves friendly and clever with the sort of attention to detail many might not expect from this sort of venue.
Offering Breakfast, “All Day” and Late Night menus, PALMS’ sweets specialist Tammy Alana tackling gigantic Cinnamon Rolls served with Chocolate-covered Bacon and a Butterscotch sidecar, additional early options include deep-fried French Toast served with Peanut Butter and Strawberry Compote.
Running the gamut of German, Chinese, Creole and Mexican where “the Golden State meets the Silver State,” a giant Pretzel made properly suspended alongside Birria de Res with lots of Cheese, Beef Brisket Fried Rice arrives in a generous portion for the price as does Gumbo around Rice with both Chicken and Chouriço.
Not forgetting Walnut Shrimp, as inauthentically delicious here as anywhere on Spring Mountain Road, Flatbreads are fairly basic which allows more time to focus on the fantastic smoked Brisket served on a Pretzel Bun with Figs, Onions and Brie.
Happy to try a few new Entrees, Serrano Vista’s Meatloaf tender with hints of Bacon and smothered in Red Wine Gravy, don’t miss Butternut Squash Rigatoni with Sausage that looks and tastes as refined as something one might find at Esther’s Kitchen.
Never missing a chance to try Chef Alana’s Desserts, past or present at Scotch 80, Vegan Chocolate Cake and Cheesecake shout nostalgia in all the best ways while the Butterscotch Pot de Creme and Banana Tiramisu outpace many upscale dinner outposts on the Strip in terms of taste and texture.
More Comfort-Food than the past menu, though the handmade Pecan Candy atop a Turtle Sundae shows Tammy has no interest in dialing it in, fans of Bread Pudding will find no better in town than the steamy Pumpkin version served with Maple Rum Sauce and Vanilla Ice Cream.
BUTTER BURGER – Boursin, Fancy Sauce, Pickles, Spicy Tots
CHICKEN THIGHS – Alabama White Barbeque
SHORT RIB STEAK – Mississippi Jus, Pepperoncini Pesto
SLOPPY JOE – Kimchi, Gochujang, Spicy Tots
BAKED MAC & CHEESE – shhhh, it’s a secret
BOURBON FUDGE BROWNIE – Brown Butter Bacon Ice Cream
GLAZED DONUT BREAD PUDDING – Three Rum Caramel, Vanilla Crème Anglaise
ROSÉ PARFAIT – Strawberry Chantilly, Rose Petals
Ground-breaking since opening Carson Kitchen’s greatness has seemingly become so expected that many are prone to overlook it, but on Thursday night 124 South 6th Street was jammed-packed for a menu that continues to exude creativity, quality and the sort of Food that challenges without compromise yet always seems delicious and familiar.
Fortunate to have tasted every new plate at Carson Kitchen since summer of 2015, Chefs Harwell, Simon and team forever rethinking even longtime best-sellers, it was alongside Cocktails that dining began shortly, Angry Tony well-suited to iconic Chicken Skins, bubbling Bacon Jam and Tempura Green Beans with Pepper Jelly Cream Cheese.
Continuing with more Skins, equally enjoyable today as in 2014, Venison Tacos stand out thanks to Basil Cream juxtaposing lean Meat while Hotdog Burnt Ends and fried Polenta styled as Elotes are each brilliant plates riffing on tradition.
Served Broccoli Crunch and Beet Tartare for first timers, a young child finding the outside patio perfect for walking with Dad, Harwell’s second stab at a Sloppy Joe finds inspiration from Korea while another revamp of the Butter Burger adds “Fancy Sauce.”
Not forgetting Chicken Thighs in White Sauce, nor Cory’s “secret” Mac & Cheese, Steak arrives extra tender thanks to the Short Rib Cut beneath Pesto Sauce given heat by Pepperoncinis also served with the “Pepp on Pepp” Flatbread.
All-in to finish, a “one of each” affair featuring an improved “Rose Parfait,” Las Vegas’ best Brownie and Donut Bread Pudding somehow keep getting better with time – just like the Restaurant and it’s team.
Family owned and operated from the start, Dominic Sang bringing family recipes from a Texas Doughnuttery to Sin City in October 2015, guests entering Glaze Doughnuts will notice little has since changed about the shop in nearly 8 years while a soft base and creative toppings earn “Best of Las Vegas” accolades annually.
Located on Fort Apache Road, fair prices and friendly service undoubtedly part of Glaze’s appeal, what the shop lacks in selection is more than made up for in quality compared to the likes of Dunkin, Krispy Kream or other spots nearby.
Largely built on Yeast Rings, though undersized Fritters perform admirably, fans of simplicity will find Maple Frosting far more subtle than most while Chocolate and Vanilla Glaze are also of excellent quality with or without additions such as Cereal or Candy.
Not over-the-top, but balanced and complex, crunchy Pearls and Strawberry dazzle atop a fluffy leavened base dazzle while Coconut and Ube do the same, though if one is seeking Glaze’s top choice the decision comes down to Blueberry Cinnamon Toast, Churros and Horchata or Matcha Green Tea Pistachio that delivers sweetness beneath toasty notes.
Poblano Plate – Sour Cream Chicken Entomatada topped with Salsa Española, Taco a la Iguana, Beef Tostada, Guacamole
Beans, Mexican Rice
Red Pipian, Mole Negro, Mole Coloradito
Red Iguana Pan de Tres Leches, Strawberries, Maraschino Cherry, Whipped Cream
Owned by Lucy Cardenas and founded by her parents Red Iguana is so popular it’s spawned a second location plus the more upscale Blue Iguana, yet no matter which location residents or visitors choose the consensus is that there’s no better place for Mexican Food in Utah.
Self appointed “Killer Mexican Food that’s worth the wait,” though the concept is largely Tex-Mex including combination plates featuring three or more items, it is at 736 W N Temple that the original Restaurant still resides as a low-slung spot with parking on the side.
Covered with stickers at the door, a man at the podium confirming reservations or quoting wait times, it is inside that diners will find vibrant colors and pleasant service with Water poured quickly and a bowl of complimentary Chips plus Salsa soon to follow.
Offering a number of Classics, the Sour Cream Chicken Entomatada with Tomato Sauce rightfully praised by many, fans of Tacos will find “a la Iguana” as Shredded Beef beneath Jack and Guac while a Tostada eats like Mexican Pizza complete with Olives and Beans.
Also known for Mole, six styles including Pumpkin-based Pipian offered daily as plates, a la carte by the ounce or to-go, Negro eats deep and earthy without the sweetness that many north of the border feel necessary while Mole Coloradito is smoky, nutty and medium-hot.
Part of the SLC dining scene since 1985, though the Cardenas’ legacy dates back two decades further, Dessert features inspired takes on tradition ranging from Flan to Fried Ice Cream, though the best choice is an individually portioned Tres Leches soaked by sweetened Milk and rife with Cinnamon.
Ice Cream For Breakfast – Salted Maple Ice Cream, Blueberry Ice Cream, Tomodachi Croissant Crouton, Butter Ganache, Powdered Sugar, Cone
Begun as an Ice Cream truck by Alexa Norlin fans of Normal now get their fix at 169 E 900 Street, the #instagram friendly shop offering a rotating array of flavors that may see Sweet Corn Soft Serve one day followed by Chai or Pumpkin Spice the next.
Using a sleepy circle for its logo, nothing about the shop befitting its name, it is after a few tastes that guests are invited to compose their own Cone or select from composed concoctions including Cookie Sandwiches, Parfaits or Floats.
Not exactly the sort of place for smiling service, a lone employee on Sunday afternoon obviously bored, it was after a spoon of Sweet Corn that “Ice Cream For Breakfast” was created, Norlin’s history as a Pastry Chef evident in pure flavors to whom the addition of crispy Croissants and buttery Sauce lent the unmistakable flavor of Blueberry Pancakes.
Strawberry Tall Cake – House Sweet Biscuit, Fresh Cream, Strawberries
Now with three locations including a frequently-packed space in Salt Lake City Hasen Cone’s Sweet Lake Biscuits & Limeaid is nothing short of a Utah landmark, the fact that everything on the menu is made from scratch less surprising than just how good the Biscuits actually are.
Begun as a Limeade stand inside the Downtown Farmer’s Market, but now the sort of spot with an hour-plus Yelp! waitlist, guests visiting Sweet Lake will be greeted by friendly staff in a sparse room where the Limeaid Bar and partially-open Kitchen are in full focus.
Rumored to serve the city’s best Fried Chicken, both that and the Limeaid saved for a later date, Sunday’s order included one “Biscuit Bar” topped with peppery Tooele Valley Sausage Gravy plus Sweet Lake’s “Strawberry Tall Cake” that sees plump and buttery Biscuits Sugar-shellacked amidst Fresh Cream and locally-grown Berries.
Locally sourced whenever possible, a tall glass of Coldbrew Coffee earthy with mellow notes of Cocoa, it was while waiting that Sweet Lake Biscuits & Limeade’s story became all the more compelling thanks to a mission statement that pays employees real living wages while also giving back to the community through green policies.
Opened in 2008 as part of Salt Lake City’s 9th and 9th Neighborhood Tuile Bakery is considered by many to be the best place for Viennoiseries in Utah, owner Leslie Seggar largely self-taught though each item on the shelf looks like the work of a professional with years of experience.
Also with a second location in the 15th and 15th, both menus similar including a few plates made for dining in, early arrivers will be fortunate to find no less than fifty styles of Cakes, Croissants, Cookies and Bread – the Morning Bun popular for good reason as laminated coils unroll with a tug yielding Cinnamon-Sugar atop Butter throughout.
Using local Grains and Milk products, the Oatmeal Cookie flexible and soft at the center of a crisp rim, Tuile’s Financier competes with those in France for taste and texture while a Chocolate Croissant (selected over Almond due to a personal disdain for Frangipane) shatters to the tooth with a cascade of flakes falling as they should.
Chocolate Cake Donut with Chocolate Frosting and Chocolate Sprinkles
Maple Frosted Old Fashioned Donut
Blueberry Frosted Cake Donut
Apple Fritter
If there’s one thing a connoisseur will notice quickly it is that Utah likes it’s Donuts the same way it likes it’s contraception, low cost and old fashioned, a fact that sees Banbury Cross often sold out of top choices by 9:00am on weekends.
Part of Salt Lake City since 1986, a second location only recently debuted in Centerville, it is inside the small shop with a drive-thru that guests will find several styles of freshly-made Pastries including Muffins and Cinnamon Rolls.
Uncertain regarding the name, though ties to England would seem likely, Banbury Cross focuses on classic varieties made by hand including a somewhat dense yeasted base offered beneath simple Glaze or flavored Frosting.
Not on par with Fresh Donuts & Deli, though a Chocolate Cake Ring topped in Frosting and Jimmies is among the best of its kind, Banbury Cross’ Old-Fashioned is dry even beneath thick Maple while the Apple Fritter needs more Fruit and a bit more attention in the fryer to keep them from becoming soggy.
Housed in an old railcar up in the mountains since 1930 Ruth’s Diner was popular long before being mentioned on Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives, increased notoriety after its owners’ passing now seeing guests often wait more than an hour to enjoy hearty America classics beginning at 8am Thursday through Monday.
A scenic twenty minute drive outside of Salt Lake City, the interior tightly packed such that servers must carefully navigate aisles single-file, it was with the outdoor patio closed due to rain that guests waited patiently for a chance to enjoy complimentary “Mile High Biscuits” made by Ines Monreal complete with housemade Preserves.
Featuring pictures of Ruth and her staff throughout, the one-time cabaret singer first opening a Hamburger shop downtown before migrating to the mountains, the Diner’s current crew trends quite young but very pleasant whether serving Sandwiches, Bennys or Desserts such as the excessively-sweet Banana Walnut Bread Pudding.
Built to turn a table, both this diner and a family of four across the way out the door less than 45 minutes after seating, Ruth’s Cinnamon Roll French Toast fares well despite a lack of real Maple Syrup, but in the end its mostly those flaky, buttery Biscuits and nostalgia that makes Ruth’s worth a visit.
Salt Caramel Budino – Salted Caramel Pudding, Chocolate Ganache, Chantilly Cream, Pecan Brittle, Shortbread Cookies
At one time a California Pizza Kitchen it was late 2022 that Las Vegas Chef Marc Marrone opened Italian Graffiti inside The Gateway of Salt Lake City, Marc and co-owner Reed Slobusky of Nice Hospitality sparing no expense to create a beautiful room serving equally elegant Pastas, Antipasti and Secondi.
Fortunate enough to eat a lot of Chef Marrone’s food during the pandemic, in that case Asian-influenced Graffiti Bao, Italian Graffiti sees him tap into family recipes passed down from his grandparents and featuring locally-sourced Ingredients from Utah’s small farms.
Built around an open kitchen and bar, each member of the staff wearing a smile atop comprehensive knowledge of the menu, it is while taking in the scene unfolding beneath flowers that guests should begin with Housemade Bread including rustic Rye Sourdough served with a la carte condiments such as good Olive Oil, Olives, Pan Drippings and Normandy Butter.
Torn between Marc’s world-class Meatballs and delicate Cacio e Pepe Beignets it was the latter that won out thanks to their novelty, each of five golden-crisp with a molten center though that is certainly no reason to pass on Whipped Ricotta with Local Honey or Handmade Burrata served alongside Peaches, Pesto and Duck Prosciutto.
Placing 2-tops along the edge with banquettes in the middle, at least ninety diners seated shortly after opening, it was with music playing lightly that the first of two Pastas arrived featuring pockets of local Corn in Brown Butter Sauce with assertive Blueberry Balsamic and bits of fresh Basil.
A mix of tradition and contemporary cooking, the hand-milled Polenta served simply with Butter and two types of Cheese, Secondi got skipped in favor of Rabbit Tortellini that tastes like a more refined and delicate form of classic Sausage & Peppers.
Again challenged by the desire for multiple desserts as a solo diner the decision was made to defer, both a server and GM suggesting Marc’s Salt Caramel Budino that might have been better without Chocolate, though that is largely just a matter of personal preference and certainly didn’t stop every single spoonful from being devoured.