It was 2013 when David Yoo opened Davey’s Ice Cream in the East Village and although several artisan Ice Cream Shops preceded and followed few have managed to expand throughout the city, a total of four locations now ranging from SoHo to Greenpoint with the Bedford Avenue shop particularly convenient on the way from Manhattan to Brooklyn on the L-Train.
Known for a strict adherence to quality standards that sees every small-batch made on-site using a lengthy process, his partnerships with local businesses producing a multitude of flavors across the years including Ultra Babka featuring Bread from Moishe’s, it was during a sunny day in late January that the Scoop Shop was found empty save for a young clerk singing along to tunes overhead, her happiness for a customer almost tangible as she served up sample after sample including the particularly impressive Roasted Pistachio and Speculoos Cookie Butter studded with Chocolate Chips.
Exiting the world of Graphic Design to pursue baking and Ice Cream, the fact that so little of the shop screams “Instagram” a breath of fresh air considering Yoo’s background, it was after tasting a few more spoonfuls that the decision was made to go all-in on the $10.25 Davey’s signature, a whole slice of housemade Peanut Butter Pie topped in two scoops of French Vanilla plus a measure of Organic Milk and Fudge before being spun down into a creamy concoction likely to clog the straw repeatedly but nonetheless worth every cent and calorie.
Queso Fundido with Steak Tartare, spicy Corn Nuts and housemade Corn Tortillas
Sticky Rice Tamal with Red Chile Duck Confit
Octopus Tacos with Celery and Salsa Verde
Corn Ice Cream Taco
Canela Ice Cream Sandwich
When Alex Stupak left wd~50 to open Empellón many were skeptical, a celebrated Pastry Chef quitting the world of fine dining to make Tacos decried as disingenuous by folks who’d never even eaten his Food, yet in hindsight everything has seemingly come full circle as Wylie is making Donuts in Brooklyn while Alex owns three Restaurants including his polished new flagship in Midtown.
Opened in late-winter 2017 and since earning high praise from fans and critics for not only the Cuisine but a stunning two-story build-out decorated in colored glass and sculpture around an open kitchen, the upstairs quieter and built for Power Lunchers while the main floor gives those more interested in Food a true visual feast, it was minutes past 1:00pm that a seat was taken directly facing the line, several bodies engaged in tasks across the various stations.
Certainly not a concept striving for authenticity or the tabs many seem to think a necessity of Mexican Food, the menu prices comparable to Cosme with dishes that stretch the boundaries of tradition by way of great ingredients and the sort of technique learned at Alinea or wd~50, it was with the Lunch crowd beginning to thin that a waiter approached to make suggestions, the $38 Lunch Prix-Fixe actually a fairly good bargain even with an extra Appetizer and Dessert added on.
Receiving a controversial Three Stars (out of Four) from Pete Wells, though criticisms of the Restaurant from others seem more indicative of the entitlement of modern times than a real indictment of Stupak’s creations, it was with freely refilled Cold Brew in-hand that the meal began with Empellón’s current take on Queso Fundido, the melted blend of Cheeses stretchy and saline but nicely balanced by hand-chopped Beef and spicy puffed-Corn added for texture.
Not a house of shortcuts, the Corn Tortillas visibly being made just as they do it in Mexico, it was after four loaded folds of Cheese and Meat that a little extra was scraped from the bowl before moving on to the Prix Fixe Appetizer “Tamale,” a controversial twist replacing Masa with Thai-style Sticky Rice and topping it with tender Duck in a complex Red Sauce, everything about the dish executed well, just the naming questionable.
Joked about by many as thinking anything can be a Taco, the list of options ranging from Pastrami and Falafel to Hashed Browns or Steak with Onions, it was on the server’s suggestion that Octopus was selected among the rest, two charred Tentacles presented on Tortillas with ribbons of Celery and nutty Salsa each finished in three bites before moving on to a fairly forgettable Cinnamon Ice Cream Sandwich and laborious Corn Ice Cream Taco that is reminiscent of Kettle Corn but texturally every bit as remarkable as Cosme’s Corn Husk Meringue.
Located in trendy Williamsburg and serving guests for nearly nine years, a long time when considering the rapid gentrification that turned Brooklyn into Manhattan’s near-equal in terms of dining and rent, it was after another meal that a twenty minute walk found The Blue Stove, its location near I-278 at first seeming a bit distant from other businesses but in reality just 4-blocks from an L Subway stop.
Occupying the corner of Graham Avenue and Withers Street with hours beginning at 8am on weekdays or nine on weekends, an all-day affair offering both sweet and savory Pastries in addition to Coffee, Tea and Espresso, The Blue Stove is owned and operated by Rachel McBride Beyers who opened the space in hopes of providing guests the same warm memories she recalled as being baked by her mother throughout the Chef’s childhood.
Rustic yet welcoming in décor, the cases and racks all worn with cracked crown molding above and the eponymous enamel stove standing proud on one side, it was shortly after 11am that the compact eatery was found roughly 1/3 full but soon to get busier, a large list of options at first posing some difficulty in deciding what sounded best but eventually yielding six items with some for then and the rest saved for later.
Friendly as relates to service, a low-volume Soundtrack of classic rock entertaining patrons as well as staff seen hand-rolling dough in back, it was no more than five minutes after settling the bill that items were boxed and a warmed Slice of Pie presented, the combination of toasted Walnuts, Bourbon and Maple Syrup packing a buttery Crust from top to bottom with far less sticky filling than the South’s often cloyingly sweet Pecan version.
Planning to simply snap photos and get a taste for the rest at this point, a fool’s folly as that ‘taste’ quickly escalated to several bites of Carrot Cake that finds its sweetness in Fruit and a thin ribbon of Cream Cheese Frosting, it was showing some restraint and setting aside approximately half that attention turned to an item labeled “Spiced Guava Chess Pie with Orange Crème Fraiche,” each layer individually intense and creamy in its own way but the combination unlike anything ever experienced with sourness melting away to a sweet finish perfumed by Anise.
Slowly savoring each bite of the Chess and debating another slice for the road, a line of six patrons the eventual deciding factor in avoiding further endangering hopes of enjoying lunch, it was almost six hours later that three of Chef Beyers Cookies were tasted, the Snickerdoodle a bit dry and disappointing but rife with Cinnamon while the chewy Chocolate Crinkle and house-special Ranger were both quite good, the latter in particular as its Butter content seemed magnified by finishing Salt rather than muted by Oats, Raisins and Chocolate Chips.
Malted Pancakes, Hazelnut Maple Praline, Brown Butter
Although the closure of Isa was certainly a blow to Brooklyn’s rapidly developing Restaurant scene it did not take long before another eatery sprouted up in prime real estate at 348 Wythe Avenue, Chef Jaime Young of Atera plus partners from Major Food Group launching Sunday in Brooklyn late-2016 and quickly making a name for themselves with not only hipsters but also neighborhood families.
Developed as a three-meal space focused on accessibility and sustainability, everything from nose-to-tail cooking, pickling and dishes featuring Bone broth, Stems and Seeds featured at Breakfast, Midday or Dinner, it was shortly after entering the rustic looking space around 10:00am that a seat was offered in back near the Bar, a pair of Vegans nearby discussing their options with three Real Estate Agents holding a meeting to their right and a family of four tucking into surprisingly large portions on the left.
Featuring an open kitchen complete with wood-burning oven plus a Coffee counter and to-go window showcasing skills honed in Boston and New York, a period of time with Tony Maws at Craigie on Main plainly evident in the Restaurant’s concept as well as Young’s cooking, it was having already scouted the menu online that decisions were made quickly, two housemade Pastries arriving shortly thereafter on a branded wooden board, the Sticky Bun soft and subtly smoky with restrained sweetness while the $5 Biscuit was excessively priced, though nicely layered and complex in its flavors.
Undoubtedly the sort of place to offer Avocado Toast, though the modern Breakfast-staple will likely soon be featured at Denny’s and IHOP, it was taking a different approach that Sunday in Brooklyn additionally presented a slice of housemade Bread topped in shaved Brussels Sprouts plus roasted Almonds on a base of Persimmon Sambal, the light heat and funkiness likely not everyone’s cup of Tea in the morning but all of it working incredibly well together beneath a Sunnyside Egg.
Not a ‘cheap’ Restaurant, but also not particularly expensive given the location, products and portions, it was finally in Young’s signature stack of Pancakes that any residual appetite was invested, the stack of three individually griddled rounds raised by Baking Powder and tinged with Malt incomparably light and fluffy beneath a liberal pour of thick topping that tastes equal parts Maple Syrup and Hazelnut Butter.
Serving the fine folks of New Haven since 1929 it was en route to New York from Mystic that a detour was made for Lucibello’s Italian Pastry Shop, its current location at the corner of Grand Avenue and Olive Street home since 1959 with the Faggio Family in charge for nearly sixty years.
Now run by Peter Faggio, his father Frank the creator of many of the Bakery’s recipes including several old-world classics rarely discussed in the era of Instagram, it is immediately upon entering the brick building that one is transported to a different time in history, two women behind the counter ready to assist guests and a tall male gathering items for what appeared to be a fairly sizable catering order.
Perhaps not as acclaimed as Frank Pepe’s on the national level, but locally held in high regard for not only its longevity but an adherence to tradition that has seen little change over the decades, it is recommended that first timers take a few minutes to peruse the options and ask questions before composing an order, the various Italian Cookies all lining one case and sold by weight while Pastries fill another with a assortment of Fillings.
Priced lower than similar shops in Boston, Brooklyn or Philadelphia and generally more friendly it was after weighing all options that five items were requested, boxed and tied, first tastes featuring a Zeppole done right with light Pastry sliced and sandwiching eggy Vanilla Custard that was selected over Chocolate or Vanilla Cream.
Admittedly suspicious of the prefilled Cannoli but willing to risk it, the shell thankfully not as soggy as feared but still not as good as it could have been if filled-to-order, it was from here on that Lucibello’s showed best, the Rainbow Cookies weighty and nicely balanced without any artificial Almond extract detected while the Sfogliatelle and Baba were opposite ends of the texture spectrum, the former shattering to the tooth and lightly perfumed in Citrus while the Cake filled with Vanilla Cream was soft and sopping wet with sweetened Liquor.
Although Hollywood magic has recreated sunken cruise ships and built entire universes of superheroes it turns out that Donald Petrie’s 1988 film Mystic Pizza is based in reality, the shop built in 1973 by the Zelepos family still standing at 56 West Main Street and even having spawned a sibling out in North Stonington plus a vast line of merchandise.
No doubt buoyed over the past thirty years by the movie, a mundane coming of age comedy featuring Julia Roberts that stands as a local point of pride, it was sometime after dark that guests entered the take-out side of a space that was otherwise empty save for two clerks, the promise of “a Slice of Heaven” immediately suspect as Cheese, Pepperoni and BBQ Pizza slices sat languishing under a heat lamp.
Friendly enough in terms of demeanor and décor, information pamphlets about the Restaurant and movie available alongside take-out menus, it was mostly ignoring the kitsch while peering into a tank of African Cichlids that a brief wait took place after exchanging just over $5 for a Slice plus a Cookie, the former visibly abused and likely hours old with overly sweet Sauce plus run of the mill Pepperoni on a Crust that was buttery in a style reminiscent of Pizza Hut.
Taking just two bites of the slice prior to pitching the rest in an outside Trashcan, the idea of simply leaving a pile of browned Cheese that can be easily replicated by overcooking a Frozen Pizza on the counter briefly entertained but eventually deemed too rude, it was turning attention to Mystic’s Reese’s Peanut Butter Cup Cookie that salvation was sought, the crumb a little dry but the flavors definitely there, though certainly not something worth going out of one’s way for.
Almond Brown Butter Cake, Vanilla Bean Crème Anglaise, Whipped Cream
When any serious diner does her or his research on Mystic two names are repeatedly the center of most conversations, Chef James Wayman and Dan Meiser who opened Oyster Club in 2011 and virtually changed an entire city’s food culture overnight.
Now the proud owners of three Restaurants including Engine Room and the recently debuted Grass & Bone, the later complete with a Butcher Shop that on this particular evening saw Chef Wyman cooking a special Dinner alongside Boston’s Jamie Bissonette, it was several minutes early for a 6:00pm reservation that two guests were welcomed to the converted carriage house at 13 Water Street, the warmth of the foyer bolstered by a fireplace with dining room left and Bar to the right.
Open nightly from 4pm for Happy Hour, dinner beginning at five and Weekends also offering Brunch, it was with coats checked that guests were led to tables in a room heavy with wood, a list of Cocktails presented along with menus that change daily to reflect the market, one of them more lengthy and the other a bargain $25 Pasta Prix Fixe.
Treated to the cooking of Sous Chef Dave Vacca given Wayman’s busy schedule, though the executive Chef’s fondness of Charcuterie and local sourcing played a prominent role, it was after lengthy perusal while weighing appetites that the decision was made to order one Tasting and further supplement from there, the total tab of $145 including one Cocktail a veritable bargain and Dinner starting off with the first of two complimentary Baskets of Bread including a Cornmeal variety just as good as that at Engine Room.
Deferring the meal’s course to a friendly and informed waitress, her honest answers about portion sizes helpful in allowing a party of two to sample a wide swath of the night’s offerings, it was with Oyster Club’s famous Quahog Clam Chowder alongside Salad dressed in Anchovies plus crispy Croutons that things got underway, a large bowl split into two portions at the kitchen’s discretion proving thinner than most and all the better for it as Clams and Bacon came through unmuted by Cream, Potatoes or Seasoning.
Refreshing share plates and silverware for each course, a request easily accommodated with the room less than 1/4 full, course two featured a duo of daily specials including pieces of housemade Prosciutto layered amidst Toast, Hydroponic Greens and Peanuts plus a touch of hot Honey, the quality of each ingredient magnified by the others and a trend also witnessed in room-temperature Scallops poached in Goose Fat served with cured Bird Meat and a light dressing imbued by Screwpine.
Told that Oyster Club’s Tagliatelle is something of a signature but at the time more interested in housemade Spaghetti served simply with Prosciutto, Peppers and Onions next to a buttery Garlic Knot, the flavors all present but the end result admittedly a little underwhelming, course three concluded savories by way of roasted Baby Carrots wrinkly and tender beneath Root Vegetable Chips along with local Cheese and “Honey-soaked” Mushrooms, a never-before-seen idea that surprising worked well in this context.
Rounding out the evening with Dessert but no Coffee, a long day of driving to follow and sleep at a premium, suffice it to say that the Tasting Menu’s lone choice was more Funnel Cake than Zeppole while the regular Menu fared far better, an $8 Blondie topped in boozy Caramel and Whipped Cream probably best shared given its richness while both the Pina Colada-esque Pot de Crème or signature Almond Brown Butter Cake with a texture akin to Sticky Toffee Pudding are so good that one per diner is well advised to prevent battles for the last bite.
When any serious diner does her or his research on Mystic two names are repeatedly the center of most conversations, Chef James Wayman and Dan Meiser who opened Oyster Club in 2011 as well as Engine Room along the Mystic River just two-and-a-half years later.
Known by locals and tourists as *the* place for Burgers as well as libations including the area’s best collection of Bourbon and Beers-on-Tap, a rotating selection of sixteen along with Wine, Bottles and Cocktails plus customizable Bloody Marys creating the hook for a Brunch of Seasonal Fare, it was with reservations at noon that a brief wait was circumvented for seats at a banquet, regulars on both sides already a few drinks in and even the half-eaten plates on their tables still visually quite appealing.
Toqued by former Oyster Club Chef Chris Vanasse and housed within refurbished confines of the Lathrop Marine Engine building, exposed brick and cement par for the course in trendy restaurants but given a nautical slant in this case, it was after greetings from a youthful female waitress that Water was poured and menus assessed, several novelties laid out alongside Omelets, Bennys, Hashes and Sandwiches.
Listing purveyors as “The Story” online, a philosophy that “ingredients shape the cook” particularly modest for the sort of dining not found in-town ten years prior, it was while listening to unnecessarily-loud music overhead and customers attempting to be heard over it that round-one was presented, five orbs each of Carolina-style Hush Puppies and Cinnamon Sugar Donut Holes freshly-fried and served hot with Dipping Sauces, the former better for $2-less and easily amongst the best one will find anywhere thanks to the aromatic spices and lightness of frying.
Serving fast as crowds grew thicker, the population of Mystic clearly infatuated with dining out on Sundays as both RISE and Bleu Squid had also been packed, it was in three plates that Entrée and Sides were presented after packing two Donuts to go, the grilled Sweet Potato Bread used to make Engine Room’s French Toast fairly dull on its own but both Cornbread and a fried Chicken Breast atop two Waffle-wedges performing well, the latter a little steep at $15 even though it uses good ingredients but the thick corner-piece worth every penny for its moist Crumb heavily saturated by a gob of Maple Butter.
Sweet Corn Pancakes with Blueberries and Derby Farms 100% Pure Vermont Maple Syrup
Carrot Cake Cupcake with Walnuts, Raisins and Cream Cheese Icing
Snickerdoodle Cupcake with Vanilla Buttercream Icing and Cinnamon Sugar
Located in a retail village near the Mystic Aquarium, one of those odd collections of stores propped up almost entirely by tourism, it was in further exploration of the city that the GPS was pointed to Bleu Squid Breakfast & Bakery Café, the arrival at Olde Mistick Village simple enough but actually finding the Restaurant more a matter of luck as it resides around back with no sort of signage providing guidance.
Recently expanded and renovated after serving the community for nearly a decade, locals and visitors alike enticed by the promise of gourmet Grilled Cheese and Fancy Cupcakes for dine-in or carry-out, it was just prior to 9:30am that a two-top was offered in a back section served by a pleasant middle-aged woman, the fact that the place was packed on a cold winter day and already selling out of specials suggesting good things.
A far less crowded space than RISE, and one with a menu nearly 3-fold longer without even considering Pastry cases packed top-to-bottom, it was after brief perusal of dishes and confirmation that Grilled Cheese was “not available until after eleven o’clock” that the decision was made to go Carbohydrate heavy, the first of several Mugs of house-blend Coffee sweetened to preference going well with everything, but the last slice of warm and custardy Apple-Almond Bread Pudding in particular.
A bit perplexed as to how griddling a Sandwich differs from French Toast, or how melting Cheese with Lobster is more complicated than making an Omelet, it was setting aside the server’s suggestion of a $19 Yorkshire Pudding-Lobster Benedict that the $9.75 Stack of Pancakes studded with Corn and Blueberries was ordered including $2.25 extra for pure Maple Syrup from Vermont, the flavors probably slightly better during warmer months but still quite good with a nice yeastiness to the golden-browned Batter.
Unable to leave without at least tasting Bleu Squid’s much-talked-about Cupcakes, well over a dozen flavors available every day of the week beginning at 7am, it was having been warned that Buttercream was sweeter than average that the decision was made to invest in one themed after the Snickerdoodle Cookie plus Carrot Cake topped in tangy Cream Cheese and chopped Nuts, the former definitely living up to its name but definitely better after removing half the Frosting while the Raisin-speckled Spice Cake was great as served.
Returning to Mystic for day four of a trek through New England it was on a rainy Sunday morning with Sift closed that Breakfast was ordered at RISE, their claim of “Breakfast + Lunch Elevated” potentially accurate for a sleepy seaside town propped up by tourism during the Summer but nothing more than an example of “Big Fish in a small pond” syndrome in general.
Located on Water Street downtown since August of 2016, a space near Hollywood-famous Mystic Pizza and Oyster Club plus most of the city’s shopping creating no shortage of foot traffic even during Winter, it was arriving just fifteen minutes after opening that RISE was already found to be bustling, a seat at the thin rail near the door offered and accepted with an invitation to pour one’s own Coffee ignored as a result of the Restaurant offering no artificial sweeteners.
Toqued by Melody Pere and featuring a small footprint with 8a-2p hours Tuesday through Sunday virtually guaranteeing a packed house and waits up to an hour, it was after ten minutes perusing a brief menu that the decision was made to order two plates, the “Seasonal” Stuffed French Toast inexplicably unavailable thus leading to an order of one Pastry plus a dish dedicated to the Chef’s father.
Promoting the use of “locally sourced, quality ingredients,” though little of the basic menu or weather indicates such as “Fresh Fruit,” Spinach and Tomatoes would all be hard-pressed to grow with ice on the ground, it was while unintentionally eavesdropping on nearby conversations that another fifteen minutes were waited, the line six deep less than a foot away mostly a fault of RISE’s size as the grilled Muffin and Stack of Dark Brown Pancakes arrived.
Apparently a nearby native and veteran of Oyster Club and Engine Room, Chef Pere’s idea with RISE largely to fill a niche with higher quality Food, it was with comments from onlookers about how good everything looked that first bites were taken of a fair-to-middling grilled Muffin gilded with Butter before moving on to “Cakey McPancake,” the fluffy stack largely flavored like a Brownie with Chocolate Chips dialing up texture that nonetheless became monotonous about five-bites in and thus would probably best be shared by groups of two or more.
Jarret de Sanglier – Wild Boar Osso Bucco, Creamy Polenta, Carrots, Onions. Bacon Lardons, Red Wine Reduction
Baba au Rhum – Caramelized Banana, Exotic Cremeux, Passion Fruit Sorbet
Cranberry Souffle – Walnut Crumble, Apple Compote, Calvados Cream
Although one could easily indulge on nothing but crispy Pizza and remarkable Soul Food in New Haven it was upon learning that Union League Café Chef Jean-Pierre Vuillermet had been named Maitres Cuisiniers de France that the decision was made to end an evening there, the location directly across from Yale not widely discussed amidst dining-circles but receiving local accolades for nearly 25 years.
Situated in New Haven’s historic theater district and designed in the style of a French Brasserie, a few steps up to the Chapel Street entrance giving the aged building a sort of grandiose feel in comparison to Coffee shops and bookstores nearby, it was immediately on entering the room in clothing designed for winter travel that conditions felt out of place, the main dining room full and busting with no one attending the hostess podium.
Listing no dress code on the website but clearly a space favored by the well-heeled and elderly, a pre-theater crowd comprising the bulk of diners at 6:00pm on a Saturday, it was after a sixty second wait that a thin man in a suit approached asking “can I help you” as if to someone looking for directions, his demeanor quickly becoming more formal to the response “I have a reservation.”
No doubt sizing up the situation in his head, a younger-than-average guest with no jacket or tie, it was after hushed conversation with a waiter that the long journey through the main area to a table past the bar and on the cusp of the bathroom took place, a statement of “here is a great table with a full view of the room” shrugged off as two septuagenarians glared onward, only to be outed later for their ignorance when asking what “poulet” is after puzzling about who Paul Bocuse was and why he warranted a tribute menu.
Offering Lunch, Dinner and Tasting Menus, the layout fairly typical and everything from Green Salad to housemade Terrines offered, it was with improved service from a young waiter carrying a prominent European accent that an order was placed, the non-alcoholic Guadaloupe providing refreshment alongside Water moments before a basket of dull Bread and Gougere dumbed-down to “Cheese Puff” were presented.
Playing a non-descript blend of music overhead, the back-area seating honestly preferable to 30 more decibels near the entrance, it was after a moment of indecision as relates to interpretations of Bocuse’s Truffle Soup VGE or Lyonnaise Sausage that the decision was made to instead invest in Chef Vuillermet’s own creations, the Terrine of Venison riddled with Fat and Chestnuts a beautiful winter dish full of funk and flavor but largely unspreadable on grilled Oatmeal Bread served in accompaniment.
Passing on Duck a l’Orange and Foie Gras in favor of another hearty dish, the Wild Boar Osso Bucco in Red Wine with Bacon and a side of Polenta befitting the skills of a man born at the base of the French Alps, it was based on rumors that Union League Café offered some of New Haven’s best Desserts that two were selected, the Soufflé overcooked to the point of browning and thus losing a lot of its lightness despite good flavors while the Baba au Rhum was served halved at an exorbitant $12.75 and ruined by Passion Fruit Sorbet that was not listed in the menu verbiage.
If one had to think about a “least likely to succeed on an Ivy League Campus” Restaurant concept based on admissions and stereotypes alone it would be hard to argue that Soul Food was not in the top five, yet steps from Yale it is said some of America’s best Collard Greens and Fried Chicken are being cooked by a woman named Sandra Pittman and on Saturday those rumors turned out to be right.
Located at 636 Congress Avenue and open Wednesday through Sunday for lunch and dinner, an unpretentious façade and several people hanging out in front of a nearby storefront not particularly inviting but at the same time non-threatening, it was sometime around 4:00pm that the door of Sandra’s Next Generation was opened with a smell of Red Pepper and roasting Meats quickly filling nares, the last table for two quickly taken in a place that offers seating for twenty and a waitress quickly stopping by with a menu.
Clearly a neighborhood favorite, the take-out line constantly 4 to 14 deep throughout the course of a sixty-five minute stay during which the majority was spent waiting after an order was placed, it was listening to 70’s Soul and Hip-Hop while chatting with neighbors who were regulars that time passed quickly, Sandra’s story told on some literature where she speaks of learning at the knee of her mother, a cook she reportedly still aspires to equal some day.
Apologizing more than once for the wait when topping off water, though in reality there was nothing to be sorry about as every cook and server was busting a hump to keep up with the non-stop line, it was alongside a two-meat and two-sides combo plate that complimentary Cornbread was presented, a top heavily painted in melted Butter moistening the dense crumb with light sweetness while a complimentary taste of Candied Yam Cornbread that Sandra has been working on proved even better with a Sticky Toffee Pudding texture and flavor not far off from the traditional Soulfood Side.
Moving next to the main plate, two full Wings and a juicy Pork Chop both deeply penetrated with spices and cooked crisp without any residual grease, the meal’s true highlight was actually impeccable Greens that remained snappy despite being fully cooked in Pork and Peppers while the partially crunchy Mac n’ Cheese was also good, though not as memorable as a complimentary scoop of Banana Pudding that featured big chunks of Fruit in a creamy base with Nilla Wafers crumbled and added later to prevent them from getting soggy and wet.
S’mores Crème Brulee – Dark Chocolate, White Chocolate, Graham Cracker Crumbs, Toasted Marshmallow
Whether or not New Haven “needed” another Pizzeria is questionable, the trio of Pepe’s, Modern and Sally’s along with BAR and several smaller shops already making the college-town a dining destination, but when Da Legna opened in 2012 it was clear Chef Daniel Parillo had something to say and since that time his space on State Street has blazed its own path with locals and visitors happy to come along for the ride.
Setting aside the coal ovens and brief menus in favor of wood, unique ingredients and a kitchen fully capable of serving three courses, the intention of building an actual Restaurant instead of just a Pizzeria evident from day one, it was approximately thirty minutes after opening that seats were found on a sunny Saturday in January, the service exceedingly pleasant with a digital menu quickly provided along with a glass of Water.
Offering a full-bar including creative Cocktails plus an extensive menu of Pizzas, Pastas, Appetizers, Salads and Desserts, a few favorites highlighted by staff in clever T-shirts proclaiming “I love New Haven” with a Slice in place of the traditional heart, it was after briefly debating Gnocchi that the decision was instead made to invest in two Pies, the scorching hot oven turning both out in ten minutes as the Restaurant was not yet busy, though walking by around 7:00pm that evening there was a line out the door.
Calling the concept “Neapolitan in nature, New Haven in spirit,” Chef Parillo’s childhood nearby giving him an appreciation for local ingredients and a lot of char, it was holding one of the slices sideways with no discernible bend that this Pizza differentiated itself from most wood-fired pies, the Sourdough’s cornicione not nearly as puffy while the base is crisp and crackling like Pepe’s or Modern but improved upon with better Cheese whether on the Clark Street with roasted Vegetables and pools of Ricotta or the Figura Pizza topped in imported Prosciutto, Blue Cheese and Figs with lightly truffled Honey.
Packing up a few Slices for the road in an effort to save space for Dessert, the tableside S’mores Brulee catching eyes all around when presented, suffice it to say that finding a better way to end a meal for less than ten bucks will take considerable effort as the $8 glass bowl with a torched Marshmallow and burning woodchip for aromatics is expectedly sweet yet nicely balanced by Dark Chocolate and large enough that it is probably best shared.
Considered by many to be one of New Haven’s best spots for Breakfast and Brunch, an address nearly three miles Northwest of Yale’s campus cutting down on college traffic and making it a distinctly locals-only sort of place, Bella’s Café played host to a memorable meal on Saturday morning mostly on the merits of its Food but also due to the customer service.
Originally opened in 2000 and still packed over seventeen years later, the counter and tables at 896 Whalley Avenue available via walk-in only beginning at eight o’clock Tuesday through Sunday, it was no more than thirty minutes after Bella’s opened for business that parties larger than one were being informed of a wait, the benefits of arriving early and traveling alone yielding a spot at the Bar where Coffee was filled quick, though the man acting as host could not seem to keep from bumping into chairs throughout the meal.
Offering all-day Breakfast until 3:00pm on weekdays and 4pm on Weekends, Saturday and Sunday seeing no less than six specialty items plus an equal number of Mimosas added to an already respectable menu, it was with a tall chair shifted away from a man and woman talking politics that options were perused and an order placed, the Croque Madame Soufflé skipped due to the presence of Mustard that was never in the original recipe even though many places seem to think it should have been.
Using seasonality as a guide during warmer months and serving a heartier menu during Autumn and Winter, Bella’s famous “Italian Style” French Toast so popular that a gluten-free version was created to join Griddles, Eggs, Omelets, Salads and Sandwiches, it was after considering the local favorite that the decision was instead made to invest in two specials, the flip-side to quick seating being that a solo diner can only eat so much.
Waiting perhaps thirty minutes for the bustling kitchen to produce an order, the barman and his female co-worker checking in frequently and keeping Coffee topped off, it was now with a fair number of folks standing in the foyer that two large plates were set down carefully with sides of warm Maple Syrup from Vermont, the Buttercream slowly slipping off a stack of three fluffy Pancakes made with Flour and lots of shredded Carrots plus Buttermilk, Pineapple, Coconut and finely chopped Walnuts.
Quickly understanding what Westville residents have been raving about, the Syrup almost unnecessary as the Pancakes themselves were nicely balanced and plenty sweetened by Fruit and Frosting, it was moving on to Bella’s Sticky Bun French Toast that taste buds once again were delighted, the lack of Syrup provided for this plate completely justifiable as each buttery housemade Biscuit was soaked with creamy Custard and layered by a sugary Cinnamon Smear.
White Chocolate Rainbow Cookie / Dark Chocolate Rainbow Cookie
Apple Cider Donut
Crumb Donut
Blueberry Cake Donut
Buttermilk Bar
Strawberry Frosting Donut
Vanilla Cream Powdered Sugar Donut
Located approximately 20-30 minutes outside of New Haven depending on traffic, the sleepy town of Wallingford even moreso than usual on a cold Saturday morning, it was nonetheless from down the block that one could recognize Neil’s Donuts and Bake Shop, puffs of steam from several idling cars building up just past 7am and a fast-paced queue presumably there from open to close Tuesday through Sunday.
Occupying a low-slung building at 83 North Turnpike Road since 2001, a surprisingly young age despite the décor and layout, it is upon arrival at Neil’s that guests will find themselves greeted by an unpaved parking lot flanked by small stands of trees plus mud and grass, several folks forced to park on the fringe before entering a bustling space where a true greeting is unlikely, no less than six pairs of teenaged hands behind the counter busily packing up boxes and exchanging goods for cash.
Old-school in terms of style if not age, nary a Cronut nor novelty save for ubiquitous Maple-Bacon Longjohns to be found, it was after perhaps ten minutes of trying to see racks around parkas and hats that the front of the line was finally reached, a young woman wearing her high school’s sweatshirt carefully boxing six fried treats before placing five Italian favorites in a bag.
Offering two small tables at the door, no locals keen on using them with almost everyone a regular intent on getting back home, it was with $12.57 worth of items spread out on branded napkins that tasting began by way of a Black & White Cookie coated in icing, the base itself a little crumbly compared to New York’s best versions while the Rainbow Cookies dipped in a similar coat were dense and moist with subtle Almond flavor playing well off the Raspberry Jam.
Next taking a look at Neil’s eponymous item, a mix of Cake and Raised choices collected based on personal preference and customer recommendations, first bites of the Blueberry Cake ring yielded a fairly mild hint of Fruit amidst a good crumb while the Apple Cider version performed even better in terms of flavor and texture, the item produced when one asks for a “Buttermilk Bar” longer than most and too dry with a distinct lack of tanginess that makes one wonder if Neil’s actually uses Buttermilk or if the clerk was mistaken.
Moving on to Yeast Donuts, the majority of folks in line composing an order entirely of these, it was with a Streusel topped version torn in half that the center could be visualized as fluffy but fairly typical of boxed mix, the flavor perfectly adequate though a bit sweeter than the typical Crumb Donut while both a Strawberry frosted Circle and the version sliced and stuffed with Vanilla Buttercream were exceptionally sugary, the latter so much so that two-bites was enough with the rest discarded to prevent making a Powdered Sugar mess of clothing or the car’s interior.
Polenta Cake – Poached Black Cherries, Amaretto Cream
Having already visited Providence once in 2016, Bob & Timmy’s Grilled Pizza then closed for the 4th of July weekend and subsequently permanently shuttered to make way for Timmy’s Legendary Grilled Pizza which was inexplicably closed on a Friday in January of 2018, it was straight to the source that two diners ended up going, Al Forno purporting to have invented the dish and still retaining it on the menu despite being seen by many as one of Rhode Island’s more formal restaurants.
Originally opened in 1980 along the riverfront by George Germon, a local-seasonal approach from the very start distinguishing his and Johanne Killeen’s style of regional Italian cooking from the competition, Al Forno can still be found inside industrial-chic confines at 577 South Water Street, the outdoor patio welcoming guests before they enter a foyer looking in on the kitchen with two floors of seating extending north from Fox Point.
Still a popular location despite its age and modern competition, the walk-in only nature of the space apparently still generating waits during prime times and good weather, it was just past 5:30pm that two guests were led to a tiny two-top on the lower floor where a large man presented menus and Water before detailing several daily specials.
Proudly described as a scratch-kitchen, everything including Breads and Desserts made-to-order and thus necessitating an all-at-once order, it was with dried ears of Corn hanging overhead that the decision was made to dine in three courses, a basket of Bread quick to arrive and highlighted by Focaccia plus warm Sourdough plus a pour of Olive Oil.
A bit pricier than one might expect for the area and portion sizes, the use of linens and a history apparently justifying prices that rival Manhattan or Las Vegas from Appetizers through Entrees, it was with seven marble-sized Arancini in a pool of Bolognese for $11.95 that Dinner got underway, the fragrant Rice Balls fine but compromised by too much surface area while the $23.95 Pizza was an unmitigated disappointment consisting of a floppy Crust and not much Cheese plus an acidic Sauce that did not do any favors to the thin-yet-delicious Pepperoni.
Switching out silverware and share plates for round two, a pair of $21 Pastas modestly portioned and highlighted by lightly sauced pockets of braised Short Rib while mushy Cavatelli struggled for texture amidst raw Arugula and sweet Cream given a bit of life by Rice-grain sized pieces of Pancetta, it was with half of each boxed that an Iced Espresso was requested along *with* Dessert, Al Forno’s “Shakerato” instead suggested and pleasantly frothy, though apparently shaking Espresso with Ice necessitated extra time as it arrived at the end of the meal.
Tacking on $14 per Dessert, their $20 “Cookie Finale” said to not be worth it by those who’d been prior, suffice it to say that both plates were fine despite unjustified pricing, the Bread Pudding perhaps eight bites but not as hot as one might expect for something served in a Ramekin while the recently debuted Polenta Cake faired far better thanks to its dense crumb, light hints of Citrus and Poached Cherries that played well off Almond-scented Cream.
With three locations in Rhode Island Providence Coal Fired Pizza aims to bring the taste of New Haven a few hours North, their flagship on Westminster Street found largely empty at 2:30pm as the team transitioned to dinner from lunch.
Originally opened early-Summer 2012 and since gathering several “best Pizza” accolades thanks to the combination of novelty and quality, a lack of any other coal oven Pizza in the State over five years later but two additional stores essentially a monopoly, guests entering Providence Coal Fired Pizza will immediately find themselves surrounded by wood and brick, the off-hour yielding no wait for a table and service expectedly efficient with Water filled quickly and kept that way over the course of 45 minutes.
Offering a slightly truncated lunch menu compared to what is available after five o’clock, the difference comprised of Sandwiches and Starters, it was after quick perusal of the choices that the decision was made to select one Appetizer plus a large Pie, the latter easily enough to feed three healthy adults but also the only option available for ordering half-and half.
Reportedly keeping the oven at least warm day-and-night, a decision apparently common amidst similarly fueled Pizzerias that avoids long start-up times, it was as Crust was being rolled and stretched that a generous “small” plate of Wings emerged from an open-kitchen in back, the skin slathered in Onions and scented by Rosemary picking up a lot of flavor from both but remaining plump and juicy despite intensely crisp Skin.
Making short-work of eight pieces of Chicken plus a majority of the caramelized Onions, their sweetness playing well off the char and likely even better on a Pizza, it was just as the final Bone was being picked clean that a stand was placed and topped with an oblong disc on slate, the pre-cut wedges divided into eight and both sides blistered with a robust Cornicione but not a lot of intrinsic flavor to the Crust, a situation mostly remedied by Clams, Pancetta and Onions on one side plus housemade Meatballs in tangy Sauce on the other half.
Packing three slices of Pizza to-go and admittedly surprised by the presence of Dessert, their lack at Pepe’s, Modern and BAR in Connecticut seemingly the norm, it was on the recommendation of a server that Butterscotch Pudding was selected over Chocolate Mousse, Cheesecake or Cannoli, the flavor expectedly sweet and mellowed by Whipped Cream though the texture was compromised by too much Gelatin that saw it eat less like Mozza’s famous version and more like Panna Cotta.
Seemingly a “me too” addition to the Providence Doughnut market after PVDonuts burst onto the scene it was only after locating and paying $1.50 for parking in a busy downtown area that Knead Doughnuts was found inside 32 Custom House, the sizable seating area completely devoid of patrons as two girls behind the counter quickly halted their conversation at the sight of a customer.
Opened just prior to Christmas 2016 and clearly catering to nearby businesses, the website going so far as to offer deliveries on Weekdays-only, Knead purports to offer “good Doughnuts made well,” their collection totaling a dozen and a half with Old Fashioned, Cake and Brioche plus Fritters and a few selections that are filled.
Not quite as innovative as the competition but laid out cleanly with kitchen visible behind glass, a few chopped up samples at the register offering a glimpse of three Cake and Old Fashioned flavors, it was after brief indecision that six selections were made, the decision to take them elsewhere based on both parking and a soundtrack of unenjoyable music playing too loud.
Suggesting an artisan approach and charging as such, $22.68 for the lot, it was perhaps twenty minutes after departing that first bites were taken of two Old Fashioned Doughnuts that unfortunately came across as grainy and oversweetened, the follow-up raised Brown Butter Pecan faring far better with a pillowy crumb plus light yeastiness playing off the crunchy and familiar Ice Cream flavor.
Excited to see two unique Fritter flavors on the menu, though neither really looks like the typically cobblestone Pastry, it was with further disappointment that neither was found to be studded with Fruit but rather lightly ribboned with Jam while the Spiced Pear was wet in the middle, that texture probably better saved for the filled-Doughnuts from which Peanut Butter and Jelly showed well with both all-natural ingredients made on-site daily.
Monte Cristo – Turkey, Ham and Swiss on Portuguese French Toast with Maple Syrup
Snuggery Cakes – Blueberries and Strawberries with Maple Syrup
Described as a “snuggery” and serving three meals a day plus afternoon Tea and Pastries to locals since 2010 it was for Breakfast on Friday that The Duck & Bunny played host, an arrival just past 10:15am finding one lone table unoccupied aside from stools at the Bar in a place that tries hard to look cute, cozy and comfortable.
Located at 312 Wickenden Street in an old converted home, the small foyer opening up to a family room flanked by the Bar and primary dining area which seats no more than twenty, it was immediately upon entry that a thin man with spacers offered greetings before leading guests to a table, the tight space decorated by the works of local artists and including impressionist versions of the Restaurant’s namesake animals.
Open as late as 1am on weekends and not closing prior to 11:00pm save for a dark day on Monday, perfect hours for the young mothers who occupied an area next to the Bar as well as hip RISD students discussing upcoming deadlines at a table nearby, it was after brief perusal of the menu that the decision was made to order two entrees, the “Award Winning” Portuguese Sweetbread Pudding unfortunately offered on weekends and thus replaced by another dish that had been under consideration.
Uncertain as to where The Duck & Bunny Kitchen is located, though an expansive menu leads one to assume it is more than just the home’s original stove and oven, it was after fifteen minutes of unintentionally eavesdropping on the conversations of others that two sizable plates were presented, the two-top not quite full but portions large enough to justify prices in the range of $8-$15.
Offering an all-day Brunch in addition to later day and weekend additions, a collection of Crepes, Cupcakes and “Eclectic Fare” flanked by more traditional items, it was after liberally adding 100% Maple Syrup from Vermont to a short stack of Pancakes packed with Berries that first bites were tasted, the flavor no better or worse than expected though the Flapjacks were a little thin while the “Monte Cristo” was not deep fried as it should be, but instead two golden slices of sweet Bread wrapped around Ham, Turkey and Cheese but inexplicably lacking Powdered Sugar or Jam.
Opened in the days before Memorial Day 2016 it did not take long for PVDonuts to establish a name for itself in Providence and although the Nation’s smallest state may not be the culinary destination that is New York, Maine or Massachusetts there isn’t a bit of doubt that the small shop at 79 Ives Street is turning out better Doughnuts than any of them.
Owned and operated by Paul and Lori Kettelle, the former a self-described entrepreneur and his wife responsible for many of the shop’s opening lineup that has since expanded incrementally by the season, guests visiting PVDonuts at any time from eight o’clock until 4:00pm Wednesday through Sunday can anticipate a line, the team of young ladies behind the counter busy but exceedingly pleasant and happy to answer questions whether boxing Pastries, pouring Coffee or preparing the bill.
Reportedly begun as a lighthearted conversation about the Providence dining scene after a visit to The Holy Donut in Maine, Lori subsequently developing a 24-hour fermented Brioche base that comes across rich and eggy without much intrinsic sugar, it was after quickly outgrowing other locations that PVDonuts relocated to its current confines decorated in clever signs and artwork, a total of nearly two-dozen options on any given day running the gamut from Raised and Cake to Crullers or even a few Vegan selections.
Charging $2.50-$3.50 per item, the sizable fried rings a far better deal than most “artisan” shops around the nation, it was after standing back and allowing others to make their purchases that the decision was made to invest in eight Donuts, another half-dozen highly desirable choices omitted thanks to a lack of stomach space and additional dining plans while in town.
Certainly not a “typical” doughnutry, the expected Glazed and Chocolate Rings present but gussied up while creativity elsewhere expands across international borders, it was immediately upon seating that a still-warm Cruller was tasted, the interior wispy but rich with Eggs and sweetened by Honey without being compromised by oil like the inexplicably famous $3.50 version at Danny Meyer’s Daily Provisions.
Progressing from lightest to heaviest in terms of flavor, though not texture, it was again toward France that Donut number two looked for inspiration, the flavor of buttery Shortbread infusing a sliced Cake base sandwiching housemade Raspberry Jam while the follow-up Pistachio Pavlova was a bit unwieldy to eat due to its height, but worth making a mess for thanks to soft Meringue and subtly sweet Frosting.
Transitioning back to Cake, the fact that each Donut of this style seems to use a different base perhaps the most surprising fact about PVDonuts, suffice it to say that fans of Coffee Cake should not miss Lori’s lightly fried version topped with Cinnamon Streusel while Chocoholics will be delighted by Dark Cocoa notes beneath Caramel and crushed Nuts titled Caramel Pecan Brownie on the current Winter menu.
Cleansing the palate with Crème Brulee, the shattering Sugar and creamy Custard as close to the classic Dessert as any Donut tasted to date, it was finally in two Coffee-inspired Donuts that tasting came to an end, the Caramel Macchiato Brioche about as Espresso-laden as the sugary Starbucks beverage while the Vietnamese Coffee Cake Donut was slightly bitter and so close to the real deal in terms of flavor that those with a low Caffeine tolerance may not want to indulge past noon for fear of laying awake in bed at night.
