The Pastries are still good, as one might expect from Chef Beth Ryan-Small, but between paid influencer posts and Kyle Cunningham’s pandering for investors The Coffee Class is nearly impossible to “like” in comparison to other locally owned bakeries around Las Vegas.
Delivered to the office on Tuesday, Beth’s Scones still the best in town, Croissants clearly come from outsourced Dough though the fillings offer improvement while Poptarts have done up in price but down in terms of creativity.
Still a sucker for Wild Maine Blueberries, the fact that the Crust is Vegan undoubtedly impressive, it is unfortunate the previously enjoyable Churro Cookie has been replaced by a dry and flavorless Cinnamon Sugar round.
Such an egregious knock-off that they got sued by Crumbl Crave Cookies comes from owner Trent English, phrases such as “Because adulting is hard” and “Game changer” strewn all over a fancy website of options that change weekly now expanding across the nation though franchising.
Sold on a back-story of the founders’ eating disorder, though one needs to dig deep below glossy boxes, stark-white interior and an intentionally familiar logo to discover anything but photogenic Cookies and Soda with added sweeteners, it was side-by-side in the same week that Crave’s “Waffle” fell short of crumbl’s while “Raspberry Cheesecake” oddly offered the same “basic flavor you’ve had a hundred times—just masquerading under a new layer of frosting” that Trent supposedly rallies against.
Reportedly “crafted with top-tier ingredients that would make even the snobbiest food critics nod in approval,” fake syrup on the Waffle, Hershey’s Chocolate S’Mores and Reese’s Peanut Butter proving…something…it is safe to say Crave’s Chocolate Chip is slightly better than crumbl’s Milk Chocolate thanks to crisp edges and a soft center while “Twix” pulls off a pleasant surprise with its liquid Caramel center.
Born in Logan Utah Crumbl took the city by storm, their Instagramable rounds offered in thirty stores across six states by 2019 and now in all fifty states with six in Las Vegas including the Durango location opened in May 2020.
Created by Sawyer Hemsley and Jason McGowan, rapid expansion through franchising yielding mixed results from store to store as evidence by Social Media, it was after nine variable experiences that the westside storefront proved competent, the staff exceedingly pleasant whilst describing each choice.
Undoubtedly popular in part due to photogenicity, though a sterile interior oversells the fact that everything is made from scratch, the first thing those entering will notice is Crumbl’s limited collection of just six weekly flavors, though on this week the overly-sweet Chocolate Chip was replaced by Semi-Sweet Chunks plus Sea Salt.
Still a young company, so much success despite only starting in September 2017 certainly enviable, best bites came from specials that included “Banana Bread,” all the classic flavors well-represented including warm Baking Spice notes.
Offered onsite or via delivery from 8am until at least 10pm Monday through Saturday it was next that Strawberry Cupcake riffed-well on the idea while Waffle did the same except for the regrettable artificial “Maple” Syrup.
Again finding “Cake” concepts better than the Cookies by which crumbl made their name Peanut Butter Cookies & Cream was rich, yet far too dry, while the all-new Snickerdoodle Sandwich set a high bar by doubling down on two great ideas at once.
Boosted by dozens of 5-star reviews from faceless Yelpers with a single “review” since May of 2022 Gäbi Boutique Donut & Pastry is the second outpost from the team on Spring Mountain, a focus on “artisanal donuts 100% handcrafted with a touch of elegance” suggesting excellence that is unfortunately not supported by taste.
Now also in Inspirada, Donuts “Crafted in the Most Delectable & Gourmet Way” forming more than 90% of the menu, guests are invited to decide between Mochi and Milk Cream Donuts, plus a signature “Gabi’s Donut” that tastes of oil and char amidst its layers.
Amongst the most expensive Donuts in town, St. Honore and Donutique excluded, better bites come from filled offerings such as Cherry-Chocolate Black Forest or a Samoa filled with Bavarian Cream.
Less impressed with Gabi’s Dough than that at Purple Potato, while the Mochi rings are far more chewy than those of Mama Chai’s, do consider Cookies if they happen to be available or break out $5.50 for the airy Strawberry Milk Cream Donut that outpaces all the rest in terms of texture and restrained sweetness.
Described as a “Faith-based” business Abel’s Bagels opened late-2022 at 7150 S Durango Blvd Suite #130, owner Nick Pace of an organic juice bar in Roslyn New York hoping to bring “authentic” New York Bagels to Sin City along with other favorites from “Nook’s Organic.”
Inspired by the Bible’s Abel and Mr. Pace’s commitment to quality it is from 7am Monday through Saturday and 8am Sunday that Abel’s offers not only hand-rolled, boiled and baked rounds but also Sandwiches, Smoothies and Acai Bowls.
Sourcing good Ingredients and Coffee, high-gluten Flour the backbone of any proper Bagel, Abel’s collection includes all the favorites save for Egg while Cream Cheese is offered on its own or with up to three mix-ins ranging from Fruits or Vegetables to Macha and Peanut Butter.
Friendly in terms of service, though prone to selling out of top choices early on weekends, Bagels run $1.75 a piece with discounts by the dozen for specimens with a good skin and light crackle that quickly gives way to a chewy center that performs at nearly New York standards whether flecked in Seeds or dotted with Raisins.
Debuted in 2019 and reinvented after the pandemic Yang’s Kitchen continues to garner attention for its local, organic and sustainable cooking in an area where most go to find well-priced Dim Sum and other forms of traditional Asian fare.
At one time a counter-style Taiwanese Brunch joint in Alhambra, since rethought to include dinner, it was as a party of six that the space was found drafty and frigid on January 1st with the standard menu offered by servers in parkas and top-coats.
Upscale and priced to match, a “zero footprint” ethos in the sort of spot where auto-grat gets snuck-in without a word, early hours feature mostly simple plates including “Yang’s Set Meal” and customizable offerings including free-range Eggs, P&B Sausage and Bub & Grandma’s Bread.
Quick service with Coffee charged per cup, $4.50 per Wing and $4.00 per Oyster the going rate, fans of Tuna Salad will find Yang’s fairly basic while Salmon Smoked Hash fares better thanks to thick Hash Browns, chopped Fish Belly, Roe and Creme Fraiche.
Listing three plates under “Sharables,” the best values and flavors of the day, Cold Sesame Noodles are well-suited to diverse palates thanks to pickled flavors and varying textures while a sizable Cornmeal Mochi Pancake finds just enough sweetness through seasonal Berries and Condensed Milk.
In 1999 Radiohead released a documentary called “Meeting People is Easy” and on the front of that box, above the small title, read “YOU ARE A TARGET MARKET.” To say the band has always been ahead of its time is an understatement, and recently those capitalized letters feel truer than ever. List after list. Rating after rating. ‘spert after expert. Except if you look closely enough most of it is a paid endorsement.
“Sponsored Post,” “Collaboration,” “Content Creator.” These “jobs” are now held as facts while people proclaim altruism of a guy that pretends to be Guy Fieri as he chows down on the newest Pop Tart in his car and monetizes clicks. Want to write an article about Las Vegas? Reach out to the Board of Tourism who’ll be happy to pay your tab at some redundant new concept serving “modern American” food at a premium to tourists stuck on The Strip.
But hey, people like to be sold to, right? Superbowl commercials cost more and more each year and, thanks to streaming, are available both before and after. Cities line up to host awards like World’s 50 Best even when there isn’t a single local eatery able or interested in cooking that sort of Food. And the ‘sperts? They are ready to proclaim their knowledge of every.single.thing. from U2 to F1 to noma’s closing without ever eating there.
In 2023 I tuned out. A lot. And it was a relief. Unfriend, unfollow or block were heavily utilized, and while grown men paid $2000+ for Adele or Taylor I saw unadvertised club shows for $10-20. While people clamored for Peter Luger and Martha Stewart’s money-grab I went to EDO a lot and Purple Potato more. Then, suddenly due to TikTok, my day-to-day found itself compromised by demands for off label weight loss medications while patients in need went without as a result of shortages. Who needs education or effort when you have a smartphone and a pretty blonde telling you what to do or buy?
So here it is the end of another busy year and I look back fondly, though several concerts and more than half a dozen trips are in various stages of planning atop what will surely be another record year in clinic. I remain fortunate but also cautious, particularly with a looming U.S. election, and that is okay. Ideally I’ll be able to block that out just like I have the “influencers,” self-proclaimed experts, iheartradio and paid “opinions.”
What follows is a list of the most memorable meals and bites over the last 365-days, many of them literally “the best” while others may have shined brighter than they normally would have due to the circumstances. Thanks to all the Chefs, GMs and Servers involved and equally as much to those who I was fortunate enough to break Bread with. As with last year, only one item per Restaurant in each category.
EGG NOG MOUSSE – key lime curd, rum spiced cake, graham cracker
PEAR PIE – buttermilk oatmeal cookie sandwich
ICE CREAM – caramel pumpkin, lemon gingerbread, chocolate pecan raisin, pie crust cookies
HUBS PEANUTS – milk chocolate, sea salt
From Hatchet Hall to now Brian Dunsmoor has always cooked the kind of food you *want* to eat, and at his eponymous eatery in Glassell Park the Chef’s open hearth heritage cooking is better than ever in terms of Food, setting and service.
Debuted Summer 2022, a spacious Art Deco building fitted with two hearths playing host to Southern-inspired fare, Dunsmoor promises that nearly everything served is prepared over live fire and as the coals burn hot the space itself offers a sort of cool low-lit intimacy that makes everything (and everyone) look better.
Lightly perfumed by smoke, the monthly menu concise but certainly not limited, guests are invited to begin with small plates and salads including Tuna as vibrant Crudo or Deli-style Salad perfect on Bub and Grandma’s Bread from next door.
Well-priced considering the Ingredients, Duck Rillettes and a Caesar composed with Greens each outpacing humble origins, fans of Chef Dunsmoor know not to pass on Hatch Chile and Cheddar Cornbread drown in Honey Butter while creamy Rice with Mushrooms is also destination-worthy.
Onward to entrees, though Pork and Green Chile Stew served with delicate housemade Tortillas serves as a segue, it comes as no surprise that Dumplings with Chicken and Ham are hearty while the grilled Swordfish and umami-laden Pork Chop show off Dusmoor’s textbook grilling.
Not lacking for equally rustic Desserts, December 31st ideal for Egg Nog Mousse or Lemon Gingerbread Ice Cream, the Carrot “Souffle” eats more like Pudding beneath contrasting Toffee while Pear Pie served with an Oatmeal Cookie Sandwich is so good that parties of four or more should probably order two.
MARGHERITA – San marzano, #DOPE, basil, mozzarella, pecorino romano
GREEN EGGS & HAM – Ricotta, mortadella, cacciocavalla, egg, basil oil
A TUSCAN WINTER – Fuyu persimmon, squash blossoms, pecorino toscano, black pepper honey
Owned by Caitlin and Daniel Cutler Ronan serves Neapolitan Pizza that eschews tradition in favor of local Produce and Proteins inside an understated space with a patio on Melrose.
Opened in 2018 and surviving the pandemic with take-out, 2023 adding Sunday Brunch to nightly Dinner service, it is after eyes adjust to the darkened interior that diners sit in posh booths perusing a menu of inspired plates, Pies, biodynamic Wines and Cocktails.
In many ways a neighborhood Pizzeria, assuming the neighborhood is attuned to Wood-Oven Pizzas featuring a bubbly Crust with lots of char and chewiness, New Year’s Eve found Ronan offering Caviar in several styles including as an addition to fluffy Focaccia served piping-hot alongside Cultured Butter.
Varying the menu seasonally, Brunch additionally quite different from Dinner, Pizzas arrive coursed out in no less than twenty minutes with Margherita expectedly excellent as a result of imported Tomatoes, Basil an Mozz plus a bit of Pecorino.
Also featuring a black marble bar within earshot of the oven, perfect for solo diners or couples wanting to watch Dough stretched and fired, Brunch’s Green Eggs & Ham riffs on Dr. Seuss with Mortadella and Ricotta plus a runny Organic Egg while “A Tuscan Winter” puts locally grown Japanese Persimmons on display amidst a backdrop of local Honey and Squash Blossoms.
Previously responsible for developing the Dessert program at Momofuku Christina Tosi’s Milk Bar can now be considered something of an adjacent concept, its opening in 2008 followed by two James Beard Awards and outposts from Boston to Los Angeles.
At one time under Momofuku’s direction, an era of Pork-imbued Challah and Pistachio Croissants giving way to Naked Cakes and the sort of “wokeness” that renamed Crack Pie, it is from 9am that guests can visit Milk Bar on Melrose for everything from “Cake Truffles” to Soft Serve including the famous Cereal Milk version and December’s Brownie Batter.
Now a nationwide brand complete with overnight shipping, the assumption that items in cellophane are shipped-in confirmed by a clerk, suffice it to say Tosi’s Corn Cookie remains remarkable for somehow remaining true to the Vegetable while her iconic “Compost” version is essentially a Kitchen Sink round substituting Potato Chips for Coconut.
Made even more famous by Netflix, though prices and quality at LA’s Flagship far outpace the disaster at Cosmopolitan Las Vegas, Tosi’s Cornflake Chocolate Chip Marshmallow Cookie eats like room temperature S’mores while Peppermint Bark Cake and Chocolate Peanut Butter Crunch Pie both succeed in their concept while differing substantially in terms of texture.
Started in Silver Lake Pine & Crane is a fast-casual Taiwanese Restaurant now located in shiny South Park DTLA digs, complete with an outdoor patio and friendly staff to go with a polished seating area inside.
Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner with a focus on ingredients, former Chinatown pop-up Today Starts Here contributing ideas not found at the original, it is on entry that guests will find counter-style service such that orders bought and paid for are delivered to tables in less than fifteen minutes.
Part “Comfort Food” and part Street, juicy Pork Buns a bit doughy but perfectly seared on the bottom, Pine & Crane’s Fried Peanut Salad should not be overlooked by fans or novices as each bite delivers an array of Herbs and subtle spiciness.
More than generous in terms of price and portion, fried Rice Cakes & Mushrooms lighter than expected while the Beef Roll finds tender meat kissed with Hoisin inside a flaky Scallion Pancake, additional highlights include Shrimp Wontons bathed in vibrant Broth and Sticky Rice with tons of umami.
Open 8am to 10pm daily, Sea Salt Cream Cold Brew a good choice anytime, authenticity continues through Dessert where Red Bean, Taro, Sweet Potato and Grass Jelly can be found amidst a backdrop of everything from Shaved Ice to Rice Pudding.
From humble beginnings in the North Market to calculated nationwide expansion Jeni’s will always hold a special place in the heart of this Buckeye, every visit since senior year of college offering something new and delicious and on this sunny Saturday highlighted by classic Salty Caramel juxtaposing Brambleberry Crisp.
Calamansi Pie – Filipino key lime pie, pandan whipped cream
Derived from the Tagalog word for “older brother” combined with Chef Lord Maynard Llera’s name Kuya Lord offers regional Filipino dishes rethought through classical technique on Melrose at the corner of Western Avenue.
Begun as a pop-up out of the Chef’s home during November of 2020, pandemic restrictions still in full effect for most of California, three intervening years find Kuya Lord firmly situated on several “best of” lists despite just 21 seats.
Considered “quick casual,” a concise menu and online ordering seeing the staff of four in non-stop motion even as guests are responsible for bussing their own tables, prices range roughly $20-30 per person for hearty portions of everything from roast Meats to Noodles.
Filled shortly after opening with a crowd of varying ages and ethnicities, music overhead adding to the buzz, most plates arrive perhaps fifteen minutes after the bill is paid and every single one finds distinct balance thanks to the combination of fermentation, salt and sweetness.
Beginning with “Filipino Ramen,” a steaming bowl of Pork Broth loaded with Pork Belly adjacent textural components and fried Garlic, Llera’s Pancit utilizes thicker Noodles than usual with a lot of Umami added by Fish Cakes.
Focused more on Pork than the famous Fish Collar, both Lechon with shattering Skin and chopped Lucenachon tender as one can find, sweet Tocino alongside Garlic Rice and Pickled Green Papaya is fragrant, filling and lightly perfumed by smoke.
Not one to skip Dessert, both available in limited quantities daily, Calamansi Pie eats nearly identical to Key Lime with a subtle hint of Coconut while Filipino Peanut Brittle Spread adds depth to delicate Rice Flour Cake.
Fortunate to have enjoyed Carlos Enriquez’s Pastries during his time at Superba Food + Bread it is great news that the Chef took over Clark Street’s old space at Grand Central Market, all his goods from Bakers Kneaded now available in one space under the label Bastion.
Known for “organic Whole Grain Breads and Pastries made with California sourced and grown ingredients,” Carlos’ upbringing as the son of Southern California bakers followed by stints in Las Vegas and LA, guests can opt for sweet or savory across everything from Polenta Loaf to Viennoiseries.
Priced on par to the rest of Los Angeles’ artisans, $6.50 Croissants and $9 BK Buns surely raising some eyebrows, suffice it to say Bastion’s Kouign Amann rivals any found outside San Francisco stateside while a simple Chocolate Chip Cookie showed off excellent texture from crisp rim to soft interior.
Less sold on the Apple Pie-filled Pastry, its flavors pleasant but the lamination compromised, Enriquez’s Croissants continue the high standard previously witnessed in El Segundo whether filled with ground Almonds or Cream and Pistachios.
Already taking a chance by opening another KBBQ concept on Spring Mountain Mr. BBQ’s Jenny Chai doubled down in early February 2023 with Mama Chai’s, the Boba and Dessert shop joining a crowded market but hoping to succeed thanks to cute design plus quality baking.
Accessed via a separate entrance towards the rear of 4240 Spring Mountain Road, an outdoor patio and murals greeting guests, it is via digital menu that one may construct Beverages to their liking while Mochi Donuts and Cream Puffs line a Pastry case near the front.
Offering Milk or Fruit Tea, Yogurt Drinks and Frappes featuring Asian Ingredients a look at the Baked Goods spans a dozen or so flavors, the stuffed-Choux outpacing Beard Papa by a good distance whether one selects Red Velvet, spicy Mango or even Passionfruit.
Open Noon to 11pm Sunday through Thursday and an hour later on weekends the menu continues with Mochi Donuts, an idea popularized by Japan’s “pon de ring” already done far better at Mama Chai’s than by Paina Café down the road.
Made from Tapioca Flour and naturally free of Gluten, their consistency often described as bouncy or light, Jenny’s Mochi rings pull inspiration from a variety of cultures, Almond Joy and Oreo as expected while flavors topped in airy Cream plus Strawberry further magnify the pleasantly chewy base.
www.mamachais.com / @mamachaislv on Facebook / @mamachais_lv on Instagram
Apple Crisp Blondie, White Chocolate Dome, Caramel
Butterscotch Panna Cotta, Port Wine Pear, Chocolate Soil
Choco Taco, Espresso Chantilly, Chocolate Pearls
Last visited in mid-2022 it was in celebration that dinner was enjoyed at Top of the World on Friday, Executive Chef Chad Castanino debuting fifteen new plates across three hours in a room that remains breathtaking.
Still flying high into 2024, less tables than prior creating an atmosphere that immediately feels more luxurious than nights with 500+ covers, it is after traveling 106 stories above ground level that guests are welcomed warmly, a six-top table affording panoramic views of Sin City from Henderson to Red Rock.
Happy to see Golden Entertainment’s crown jewel in good hands, Corporate Executive Chef Brad Manchester and Chef Castanino each contributing ideas that continue to push forward, it was not long before drinks were poured, followed by housemade Bread with Butter and a pristine Shellfish Platter.
Featuring neon on its interior walls, staff quietly working a small kitchen at the center of Top of the World’s rotating room, dinner continued with Shrimp n’ Grits bolstered by Bacon plus signature Calamari “Fries” and Mushroom Caps stuffed with Crab.
Not forgetting Salads, Spinach & Apples for light eaters alongside a weighty Wedge with thick-cut Pork Belly, new entrees include everything from Dover Sole prepared tableside to pan-seared Sea Bass while those looking to impress should head straight for Top of the World Surf & Turf featuring a 16oz Bone-In Filet and equally sized Australian Lobster Tail.
Certainly not lacking for sides, and never the average Steakhouse sort, Brussels Sprouts arrive blistered beneath Cheese and Hot Sauce while Potatoes are available simply mashed or fried but far better in the form of “Loaded” Dumplings and French Onion Soup-inspired Puree.
Smart to save room for Dessert, three new additions joining layered Chocolate Hazelnut Cake and Top of the World favorite Butter Cake, lighter eaters will appreciate the Butterscotch Panna Cotta while those in search of indulgence need look no further than an upscale Choco Taco or Apple Crisp Blondie revealed by molten Caramel.
Born in Logan Utah Crumbl took the city by storm, their Instagramable rounds offered in thirty stores across six states by 2019 and now in all fifty states with six in Las Vegas including the Durango location opened in May 2020.
Created by Sawyer Hemsley and Jason McGowan, rapid expansion through franchising yielding mixed results from store to store as evidence by Social Media, it was after five improving experiences that the westside storefront proved competent, the staff exceedingly pleasant whilst describing each choice.
Undoubtedly popular in part due to photogenicity, though a sterile interior oversells the fact that everything is made from scratch, the first thing those entering will notice is Crumbl’s limited collection of just six weekly flavors, five specials including Sugar slathered in seasonal Icing plus Chocolate Chip that uses all Milk Chocolate and trends far too sweet.
Still a young company, so much success despite only starting in September 2017 certainly enviable, best bites came from specials that included “Turtle,” all the classic candy flavors well-represented atop a dense Dark Chocolate Base.
Offered onsite or via delivery from 8am until at least 10pm Monday through Saturday it was next that Cinnamon Roll riffed-well on the idea while Birthday Cake did the same.
Again finding “Cake” concepts better than the Cookies by which crumbl made their name Gingersnap proves to be a rare exception as Molasses, Brown Sugar, Cinnamon and Ginger perfume a pliable Dough cooked soft with Sugar Crystals added for texture.
Attached to the cloying smell of Subway on Warm Springs Road is one of 170 Winchell’s, the only explanation for their decades in business seemingly low prices and 24/7 hours catering to undiscerning palates.
Now owned by Yum-Yum Donuts, the family of Verne Winchell selling out in 2004, patrons can still expect the “14 Donut Dozen” made from pre-mix, the Cake rings fairing slightly better than bone-dry Old Fashioned and flavorless raised selections.
Peking Duck – Hoisin Sauce, Scallions, Cucumbers, Bao
Duck Lettuce Wraps
Duck Soup
Pork & Century Egg Congee
Walnut Prawns
Chinese style Clams – Manila Clams, X.O. Sauce, Basil
Chinese Broccoli
Ginger Scallion Lobster with Garlic Noodles
Sizzling Beef with Black Pepper
Chinese Sweet Barley Ginkgo Nut Soup
Located at 7945 South Rainbow Boulevard, as far from Spring Mountain as it is from The Strip, Taste has found an audience by focusing on “authentic Cantonese” cuisine at fair prices for everything from Pork Offal to Seafood from on-site tanks.
Traditional in terms of layout, a brightly-lit banquet room with white tablecloths and minimal décor, it is after a short wait that guests are seated at rounded tables and presented a menu ranging from several pages and styles.
Open from 11am until 10pm daily, peak hours frequently accompanied by a wait, fans of Peking Duck will find Taste’s approximately 1/3 the price of Mott 32 and across three tableside courses everything from crispy Skin on Bao to Soup and Lettuce Wraps is well-prepared in generous amounts.
Moving next to Congee, a bit bland in comparison to others, Walnut Prawns see sweetness reined in by lots of Mayo while Manila Clams in X.O. Sauce are worth the effort plus a bowl of White Rice to soak up all the Sauces.
Waiting a long while for forgettable Chinese Broccoli, admittedly forgotten by the server, Ginger Scallion Lobster saw Shellfish shine despite overcooked Pasta while Sizzling Beef with Black Pepper proved better before finishing with complimentary Chinese Barley Soup.
