Born in Utah, and now with dozens of locations including three in Las Vegas plus signage for a fourth recently raised on Durango, Crumbl remains a hot commodity thanks to #instagramworthy rounds that change weekly.
The brainchild of Jason McGowan and Sawyer Hemsley, who’ve grown their brand through franchising, it was via delivery during pandemic precautions that four new flavors formed the basis of updated opinions – though issues with homogenous consistency and too much Sugar remain.
Again utilizing the store at 8085 Blue Diamond Road, the week pre-Easter finding pastel M&M’S in one Cookie not ordered, it was at a cost of $10 that four weighty specimens were presented in an elongated box, Sugar slathered in cloying white Icing no better with mini-Eggs no better now than when tinted pink in June of 2019.
Skipping Chocolate Chip based on prior experience, but finding the addition of Peanut Butter to Crumbl’s base able to off-set Milk Chocolate for a Reese’s-like effect, Carrot Cake unfortunately came up short in Spice while Cream Cheese Frosting was not tangy at all, thus leaving the cake-like Chocolate round alone to shine as dressed in faultless Coconut Pecan Frosting.
TWO AND A HALF STARS: Over a year since opening Crumbl continues to lure guests in by rotating flavors weekly, though a lack textural variance from edge-to-center still makes everything seem under-baked and cakelike while toppings are across-the-board too sweet.
RECOMMENDED: German Chocolate Cake Cookie.
AVOID: Carrot Cake, Sugar
TIP: $3 each, $10 for four, and 12 for $25. Delivery range and offerings found at www.crumblcookies.com/order
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Sicilian Cannoli – Italian Chocolate, Dried Orange, Pistachio
Now part of Las Vegas’ evolving southwest since late-June, it was during peak-pandemic that Locale Italian Kitchen served a medical staff of twenty, General Manager Paulo Duran showing up early with what could have easily fed twice that, plus utensils, plates and napkins.
Best known as home base to James Beard Foundation Semifinalist Chef Nicole Brisson, the former top-toque at Carnevino now serving her community regional Italian plates made with the same attention to detail as any Restaurant inside The Palazzo, it was by request that seven “family-style” items were carefully unwrapped, Bread fairly basic but ideal for scarpetta of Sauces and leftovers well-utilized to make Bread Pudding at home on the weekend.
Moving next to Salad, two entirely different batches of Organic Greens finding Spinach spun sweet while Romaine hailed Caesar, those in search of Sin City’s best Bolognese need look no further than 7995 Blue Diamond Road where Rigatoni currently comes dressed in four types of Meat braised individually before being ground and slowly simmered with Tomatoes and Offal.
Operating with limited hours and menu during the statewide mandate, all curb-side and take-out in addition to a market of essentials, family style Entrees include housemade Meatballs as well as a generous portion of Lasagna, and although many will be exited to receive a bottle of Pinot Noir with their dinner the better choice during work hours was a tray of Sicilian Cannoli piped full of creamy Ricotta.
N/A: Making it blog policy to not ‘rate’ places based on catering alone, Locale Italian Kitchen continues to serve excellent Food made from local Ingredients at a price point that is more than generous while also looking out for its neighbors with small market including Eggs, Toilet Paper, Rice, Cheese and adult Beverages.
Inhabiting the block south of Spring Mountain Road on Fort Apache since just before Memorial Day 2019, it was seeking something different for lunch during the pandemic that Cubanidad 1885 came to mind, a variety of dishonest delivery apps like Uber Eats and DoorDash ignored in favor of directly contacting the Restaurant via e-mail a day in advance.
Dubbed “the Ybor Original,” and featuring a menu from Chef Dennis Martinez Miranda, it is inside Spic and Span confines that guests will currently find staff dressed in PPE, a small market to the right offering certain essentials while the counter and kitchen continue to turn out some of Sin City’s very best Cuban Cuisine.
Open at 11:00am daily, an 11:30 pick-up delayed slightly by a sizable order plus three other parties waiting for take-out, it was after assuring all was accounted for that boxes were transported two-miles, their contents each temperature appropriate and everything served in portions commiserate to price.
An unfamiliar genre to some, Cuban food by-and-large underrepresented in comparison to Mexican or Filipino across The Valley, it was after perusing the choices that Empanada started the party, Beef and Olive packing plenty of brine but doing so with balance while Ropa Vieja found itself slightly sweetened by mashed Plantain inside another dozen Pastry pockets.
Selecting three Meats as part of the “Family Completa,” just $39 for tangy Shredded Beef, crispy Pork and Chicken moistened by Mojo Criollo, also included in the package were Tostones and Puré de Boniato, the former crisp and salty while the Sweet Potatoes taste almost sweet as Dessert thanks to a liberal amount of Molasses.
A locally-owned import, Chef Miranda’s Cuban upbringing and professional training yielding big flavors made with proper technique, Sweet Bread typically served around Pork as Medianoche proved quite useful for sopping up Sauces while “Cuban Rice” found added flavor from Beans and bits of Meat.
Making Sauces and Salsas on-site, Garlic Cilantro and Chimichurri both amicable dance partners for Yucca Fries, Desserts are only part-listed on Cubanidad’s website, and although the Flan is indeed good those seeking things a little less ubiquitous should strongly consider chilled Dulce de Leche Cortada, syrup-sweet Cuban Capuchinos or Peanut Turrón on par with some of the best in Spain.
FOUR AND A HALF STARS: Open for just about a year on Fort Apache, Cubanidad 1885 continues to put on a very impressive display in terms of customer service and preparedness while the product served far outperforms the modest price point.
RECOMMENDED: Masitas de Cerdo, Ropa Vieja, Tostones, Arroz Congri, Turrón de Maní, Cabezotes de Capuchino.
AVOID: N/A.
TIP: Open 11am until 9pm at 3585 South Fort Apache Road, and currently offering free delivery within 5 miles for orders over $25.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Opting to perform some upgrades even before state pandemic mandates shuttered all on-site dining, Chefs Jeffrey Weiss and Paras Shah are back at Valencian Gold with new ideas in the works, first up a collection of New York Bagels, Bialys and Knish for a city where such things are infrequently found.
A project rooted in Jeffrey’s past, and thus far well-received by Chefs as well as diners, Valencian Gold can be found in the Southwest Marketplace off Rainbow Boulevard, and although the “Spanish fast-casual” menu is currently not offered those looking for some top-quality Carbs are in luck.
Open at 9:00am on weekdays since April 2nd, though prep-work starts several hours earlier in the former Kulinarya Express Filipino Kitchen, it is via time-honored process that Bagels are mixed, formed, proofed, boiled and baked, the “Plain” anything but from its chewy-but-not-overly-dense crumb to a generous golden skin.
Sold for $2.50 each, slightly more expensive than Bagel Café or New York Bagel N Bakery but vastly superior in terms of texture, those seeking added flavor should consider Valencian Gold’s Sesame or Everything, the former packing more seeds per centimeter than would seem possible while “Everything” entails a whole lot of Garlic, Salt and Pepper, plus plenty of Poppy Seeds.
Hand-whipping two styles of Cream Cheese plus Tofu, in addition to other select Jams and Spreads, those who like the taste of Scallions should not hesitate to order a double-helping of Chef Shah’s creamy concoction, though in the case of a $3.50 Bialy further Toppings are unnecessary thanks to Caramelized Onions at the center of a Focaccia-soft round.
Adding Lox by popular demand, nine straight Sold-Out days leading up to Easter Sunday (even with many believers celebrating Passover,) Chef Weiss plans to start serving Breakfast Sandwiches “soon,” but for those seeking something a little more substantial in the meantime the Knish rivals Katz’s or Canter’s in terms of flavor, consistency and heft at about 2/3 the price.
N/A: Making it blog policy to not ‘rate’ places based on catering or takeout alone, Chefs Shah and Weiss created something unique and delicious with Valencian Gold, and continue to push forward during tough times with a New York Deli Menu that has thus far proven better than longstanding options around town.
AVOID: Not really something to “avoid,” but as tasted on day #1 of the project Valencian Gold’s Egg Bagel was indistinguishable from “Plain.”
TIP: Open 9a-2p Monday through Friday, or until sold out, and currently supporting healthcare workers by donating and delivering a dozen bagels with spreads for every purchase of a dozen.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Sweet Sesame Beef – Chinese Broccoli, Honey, Sesame Seeds
Royale with Cheese Bao Buns – Angus Beef, Cheese, Pickles, Onions, Special Sauce
Szechuan Beef Bao – Angus Beef, Szechuan, Scallions
Basil-Basil Chow Fun with Chicken – Sweet Soy, Thai Basil, Bean Sprouts, Mushrooms
Nutella Bao
Begun as a counter-service concept inside T-Mobile Arena, Graffiti Bao has been making itself known to Southwest Las Vegas since September 2019, the opportunity to cater Marc Marrone’s Food in February going over so well with staff that delivery from 7355 South Buffalo Drive was requested again just two-weeks later, and then three weeks after that.
Previously discussing Chef Marrone’s background here, time with Tao Group unequivocally involved in Asian Cuisine capable of satisfying both discerning diners and folks that typically gravitate to Panda Express, it was on-time that Marc and another Graffiti Bao Chef arrived with everything necessary, professionalism and safety never in question.
Opting for favorites from the first two gigs, in addition to new items from a list that offers far more diversity than its brevity suggests, Crab Rice was predictably the first stop for many, and although the funky Fish Sauce and restrained heat were once again highly praised Graffiti Bao’s Mandarin Orange Chicken went just as quickly with the entire tray gone in an hour.
Opting for Sweet Sesame Beef this time, instead of Kung Pao, the quality of Marrone’s sourcing shows well from Protein to Produce, while spicy shredded Cow was instead packed carefully with Szechuan Peppers inside one of the Restaurant’s eponymous Bao.
Neglecting White Rice to save stomach capacity for better things, at least three whole Scallion Pancakes devoured including one order alongside Burrata and Garlic Chili Sauce, the choice between Lo Mein and Basil Chow Fun largely comes down to a coin-flip as to which is better while the In-N-Out-style Royale with Cheese and Nutella-packed Buns are decidedly “American” but absolutely delightful in terms of the Bun’s fluffiness surrounding decadent contents.
N/A: Making it blog policy to not ‘rate’ places based on catering alone, Graffiti Bao sets a very high standard in terms of customer service, while all nine items were nicely presented, displaying “Fusion” without being compromised and appealing to everyone from Indian to Asian to Hispanic to Vietnamese at a range of income levels and travel experiences.
RECOMMENDED: Scallion Pancakes (even better with Burrata,) Royale with Cheese Bao Buns, Mandarin Orange Chicken, Sweet Sesame Beef, Szechuan Beef Bao.
AVOID: N/A.
TIP: Southwest location is open: Monday through Saturday from 11:00am to 9:30pm and Sunday from 11:00am to 9:00pm. Follow @GraffitiBao for specials including Industry discounts and community support projects during the pandemic.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Serving as the flagship of John Arena and Sam Facchini’s family of pizzerias since November of 2012, and featuring an expansive footprint including Lulu’s Bread & Breakfast, it was with COVID-19 precautions in full-swing that curbside pickup was arranged at Metro Pizza on Sky Pointe, and just like any other day the Food and hospitality did not disappoint.
At this time take-out and delivery only, Pizzaiolo Chris Decker and a longtime staff member already busy with a line of tickets by 11:30am, it was for a group of eight that seven items were gathered, portions generous and prices far lower than Ingredient quality and craftsmanship might dictate.
Dubbed “America’s Neighborhood Pizzeria” since the early eighties, though past and present so much more, it was with everything carefully transported twenty minutes south that goods were unboxed and photos snapped, French Fries slightly compromised by Styrofoam containers but a golden Calzone holding up well with a still-molten trio of Cheeses lining the Garlic-tinged pocket.
Paying for extra table Bread during tough times, here un-cut and still warm from the oven with plenty leftover for Toast during the week, it was by-request from one diner that Metro’s Margherita was ordered, the “Ultra-Thin” Crust able to support classic Toppings from Cornicione to center while a slightly thicker “Gotham” got sorta-Supreme by way of Pepperoni, Mushrooms, Sausage, Green Peppers, Ground Beef, Onions.
Asking Chris for one of his #instagramworthy masterpieces despite the circumstances, and seeing Chef come through with a Stella balancing sweet heat with bitter Greens, Burrata and Prosciutto, it seemed only right to finish with the reference-standard Sicilian John Arena dubbed “86th Street,” because as one guest said of the pandemic “at least I could die happy if this was the last thing I ate.”
FIVE STARS: Serving Las Vegas for 38+ years and continuously evolving the concept while slowly growing the brand it would be difficult to say anyone has contributed more to Sin City’s love of Pizza than John Arena, and although any brand featuring more than one space may suffer from inconsistency Metro sets a high standard by rewarding their old customer base with predictable greatness while Chris Decker’s creativity looks towards a new era and without ever neglecting the basics – the same synopsis as always since it warrants repeating.
RECOMMENDED: Anything offered as a special from @everythingbutanchovies Social Media feed is worth asking about. So is the 86th Street Square Pie. And, really, any of the Pizzas.
AVOID: N/A.
TIP: 1395 East Tropicana Avenue, 4001 South Decatur Boulevard, 6720 Sky Pointe Drive and 1420 West Horizon Ridge Parkway all still open with Curbside Pickup and No Touch Delivery.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
A reinvention of the former DW Bistro and Andres’, Big B’s Texas BBQ opened its second location just prior to Halloween 2019, and on Thursday amidst Corona Virus precautions the Restaurant at 6115 South Fort Apache Road again showed why any discussion of local smoked Meat has began and ended with Brian and Natalia’s brand since 2016.
Named after its Pit Master, and changing the long-held belief that Las Vegas is not a Barbeque town ever since the original opened in Henderson, Big B’s Texas BBQ features the work of Brian Buechner and Natalia Badzjo, the husband and wife team taking a hands-on approach to every aspect of the operation from build-out to driving in fresh piles of wood as needed from the Lone Star State.
Currently take-out only and working with a skeleton crew, “devastating” per Natalia to temporarily lay off long-time staff, guests entering location number two currently will notice all employees clad in PPE, menu largely unaltered though specials and Desserts have been truncated.
Ready to serve the community during both good and bad times, it was with everything pre-ordered that Meats, Breads and Sides arrived quickly, individual Banana Pudding Cups a bonus and delicious as ever despite Brian’s assertion that he is “no Pastry Chef.”
Going light on Sides, but focusing on favorites including Sin City’s best BBQ Beans plus Mac & Cheese that continues to impress guests of all ages, it was after a generous spoonful of Creamed Corn that Meat took center stage, Big B’s Brisket following Texas protocol with little more than smoke and a bit of seasoning while Chicken also went quickly with a slight pull of the teeth easily liberating supple Muscle from Bone.
FIVE STARS: A fan of Big B’s Texas BBQ ever since Brian and Natalia opened the doors in early 2016, the flavors brought from Texas to Vegas and Henderson are everything are everything one might want during tough times.
TIP: Now open 11:00am to 9:00pm daily at Suite 110 of 6115 South Fort Apache Road, call (702) 844-8206 for take-out and the city’s best dollar-for-dollar catering value.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Now humming along nicely, the rushed conversion from ACE Donuts to Pinkbox Doughnuts’ third location filling a niche in the Southwest, it was Wednesday morning that the space at Fort Apache and Tropicana was found gleaming, clever signage and a giant pink Pooh demanding selfies joining more than fifty styles of fried Dough lining shelves.
Open amidst Covid-19 precautions, and donating to doctors and nurses across The Valley during difficult times, it is with warm greetings from friendly staff that guests are greeted on entry, recently raised prices sweetened through cheaper-by-the-dozen discounts that apply regardless of whether one chooses OG Classics, Good Fellas, Show Offs or Fancy Pancy.
Occupying 9435 West Tropicana Avenue inside Crossroads Plaza Shopping Center, and now officially open 24-hours with fresh bakes replenishing supply as necessary, it was with items carefully boxed by staff wearing PPE that twenty varieties were transported three miles to work, a clever naming scheme re-branding many of Roberto Armanino’s classics while new ideas are added at least monthly.
Often beginning with a Fritter, this day no different and the resulting bite packed with Cinnamon plus Fruit, it was after others selected “Chocolate Diva” and “Suga Suga Twist” that Vegas Cream continued the gluttony, its Custard center a mellow foil to notes of Yeast and thick Chocolate Frosting.
Lucky to split March’s Doughnut of Month with another, “The Breath Mint” riffing on a Girl Scout “Thin Mint” but not so slender, it was after cleansing the palate with Coffee that Lil Blue fared well, the Blueberries plentiful but not nearly so much as crumbled Bacon atop PinkBox’s “Porky Face DoughCro.”
Seeing others enjoy “The Big Samoan,” “Crumb Bum,” and “Chocolate Rainbow Ring” it was out of personal interest that two Vegan rings were added, each $3 choice indistinguishable from Doughnuts made with Milk or Eggs and “Silly Rabbit” particularly impressive from its bold aromatics to the balanced sweetness of Raisins and dairy-free Topping.
Knowing full-well which purist would scoop up “Suga Daddy,” their second choice filled with Housemade Raspberry Jam Filling also gathered, it was later in the day that five Doughnuts remained, a reference-standard Buttermilk Bar admittedly stowed away intentionally while July’s “Doughnut of the Month” got no love from others despite its subtle sweetness and texture amplified by Glaze beneath Crumbles.
Forgetting to order “The Goodman,” but sating an Old Fashion craving by a cogwheel topped in Maple, two rich choices ended the afternoon shared, first “It’s Ya Birthday” with all its Frosting and then Pooh, with a mountain of Chocolate Buttercream held in place by Ganache-like Icing.
FIVE STARS: A fan of the staff and fried Dough at ACE it was a little sad when the store closed, but leave it to Las Vegas’ best Doughnut shop to step in and fill the void with old favorites and fun new ideas at prices less than a third of what some places up the road are trying to convince guests is appropriate.
RECOMMENDED: Apple Fritter, Purple Rain, Silly Rabbit, The Big Samoan, Raspberry Squeeze, Maple Ol’ Fashioned, Buttermilk Bar.
AVOID: N/A.
TIP: Open 24/7, 10% off six and 20% discount on a dozen.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Pecan Pie Pancakes – Buttermilk Pancakes, Pecans, Praline Filling, Pie Crust Crumble
From “Last Friday” to The Stove Antonio Nunez has always supported his community, and during the earliest weeks of COVID-19 precautions he and Chef Scott Commings continued serving great Food to-go while additionally adding a market of essentials to help Henderson and Las Vegas alike.
A product of Established Culinary Management, the group with projects previously expanding to San Diego before a global pandemic changed everything, The Stove is found on the second story of 11261 South Eastern Avenue, and although currently closed a total of eight plates on Saturday not only traveled well but re-warmed equally.
Known for simple Bacon and Eggs straight through to Foie Gras atop Waffles, the use of superior Ingredients seeing both ends of the spectrum shine brightly, it was on items new and old that seven guests dined in the comfort of home, snappy Sausage featuring bold spices plus a touch of Sugar while “Egg Tacos” took Papas con Chorizo up a notch with housemade Crema plus smoky Poblanos.
Veering sweet for a moment with The Stove’s “Blue Waffle,” travel compromising consistency but the combination of Blueberries plus Thyme faring beautifully, it seems safe to say the Croque Madame was a hit as it disappeared in seconds, as too did the pair of Short Rib Empanadas despite being a little too spicy for some guests.
Happy to see Burgers only a little jostled by the thirty minute car ride, local Beef with a fine grind served medium beneath accoutrements including truffled Sauce, Fries additionally stood up well to a few minutes in the oven while Chef Nunez Duck Grilled Cheese showed that even during tough times The Stove lacks not for thinking outside the box.
Finishing with Pancakes, always a treat whether on-site or at home, “Dessert for Breakfast” rarely tastes better than The Stove’s Pecan Pie stack with fluffy Buttermilk rounds separated by what is essentially melted Pralines, the addition of Noble Syrup entirely optional but mostly unnecessary as there is plenty of Filling sandwiched between each layer.
FIVE STARS: Previously stating that Nunez and Comming’s biggest challenge going forward would be balancing their own creativity with local palates, the harsh realities of business now see their space shuttered when tables were previously full, but when The Stove returns guests can rest assured it will once again be wonderful with plenty of choices for the “Bacon and Eggs” sort and “Foodies” alike.
RECOMMENDED: Croque Madame, Short Rib Empanada, Duck Grilled Cheese, Pecan Pie Pancakes.
AVOID: N/A.
TIP: Currently closed, but follow @thestovelv for updates.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Located in the Sahara Pavilion, between Decatur and Arville, this branch of El Super opened in April of 2015, and although Produce is somewhat lacking in comparison to La Bonita as well as Cardenas the Panaderia adheres to on-site production of several Pan Dulce as well as a number of Cakes, Puddings and Breads.
Visited once prior, and again amidst COVID-19 precautions that see El Super limiting access while an employee at the door thoroughly disinfects shopping carts and offers sanitizer to guests, it is after gathering essentials that one will locate the rear-right Bakery where three women in N95 masks and gloves work diligently.
Still selling a la carte as of March 21st, just 50-cents per Pastry and $3 per slice of Cake comparable to other markets and independent shops across the valley, it was with everything carefully self-packed that ten items were tasted, a Salvadoran Quesadilla starting things off with minimal sweetness beneath toasted Sesame Seeds.
Moving next to a Vanilla-scented Loaf, heftier than Angel Food but not quite Coffee Cake in consistency, it seems impossible to judge a Mexican Bakery without at least one Concha, and so far as density is concerned El Super’s is reference standard beneath an adherent Sugar Crust while the tri-color Cookie was sweet but less Teething Biscuit-like than most.
Impressed by both a Cream-filled Empanada and the Panaderia’s Pig-shaped Gingerbread, the latter pliable and rife with spices, Bread Pudding is fairy basic and easily omitted in favor of sprinkled Cake with Frosting while Corn Pudding falls short of La Bonita’s reference-standard wedge despite El Super’s nearly-double price.
Not offering Arroz con Leche, but instead odd-looking Parfait with Fruit, the decision between Flan and Tres Leches came easily as the Cake had just been packaged, its texture predictably soaked but both sponge and light topping standing up admirably with sliced Almonds to plenty of Condensed Milk.
THREE STARS: Judged as a whole, El Super is one of the larger Mexican Supermarkets in Las Vegas, and although the Panaderia executes certain Pan Dulce and their Tres Leches well the overall cost and quality is lacking in comparison to Cardenas or La Bonita.
RECOMMENDED: Salvadoran Quesadilla, Concha, Marranito, Pastel Tres Leches.
AVOID: Pudín de Pan, Pudín de Maíz.
TIP: Typically open from 7:00a until 11:00pm, current hours and occupancy are limited. Call (702) 405-2701 for updates.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Having enjoyed David Mozes’ and Chef Peter Bastien’s Bronze Café at The Center, The Market and Juice Stars, it was to #supportlocal that lunch was catered from their North Buffalo location on Wednesday, a collection of old favorites predictably arriving on time with plenty of plates and utensils that allowed staff to enjoy every second of their lunch hour.
Located near Desert Shores in Summerlin, the former home of Beau Monde Bakery providing turnkey access for a Restaurant eventually intended to offer Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner, it is focused on health-conscious and diet-friendly fare that many guests began with Vegetables or Salad, Agro Dolce Brussels Sprouts a surprising hit while “David’s Special” remains a workplace favorite thanks to Quinoa, Garbanzos, Hemp and Avocado that compliment thinly sliced Kale.
Continuing Organic, Vegan and Gluten-free with Sweet Potatoes and Caramelized Onions plus roasted Potatoes heavy in Dill, it was with “Sammiches” that appetites were further sated, California Turkey expectedly gone first but quickly followed by The LGBTQ and Green Goddess Chicken which each eats cleaner than the traditional version thanks to better Ingredients served in proper rations on fluffy Ciabatta.
Not about to skip entirely Vegan Desserts, The Peanut Butter Snickerdoodle still Las Vegas’ best Cookie despite mounting competition, those missing Beau Monde’s gluten-free offerings will be happy to know both the Banana Flax Cake and all-new Mixed Berry Muffin are made without any Wheat protein, as too are the rest of Bronze Café’s sweet collection.
Continuing strong with the cleverly titled Loving v Virginia, a Brookie that has only gotten better over time, “plain” Chocolate Chip still holds appeal for purists while Chai Spice and Strawberry are soft, chewy and almost Cake-like, but nonetheless delicious.
N/A: Making it blog policy to not ‘rate’ places based on catering alone, no matter where Chef Peter and David are set-up the quality has never declined, lunch on Thursday continuing to show quality and creativity bound to please those with and without dietary restrictions, whether they want to be gluttonous or eat light.
RECOMMENDED: The David’s Special Salad, The LGBTQ Sammich, The Green Goddess Chicken Salad Sammich, Roasted Sweet Potatoes with Caramelized Onions, The Peanut Butter Snickerdoodle, The Strawberry Cookie, The Mixed Berry Muffin.
AVOID: N/A.
TIP: 10a-9p daily at 2380 N Buffalo Drive, Suite 110. 702-852-2830.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
A part of the Bellagio since opening, first as Aqua but since reborn twice as MICHAEL MINA Restaurant, it was shortly before The Strip shuttered that eight guests sat down for a belated celebration, service overseen by Jorge Pagani once again faultless as the kitchen led by Chef Dugan showed off classics as well as new creations.
Always a special place, but on this particular evening only half-full amidst mounting COVID-19 concerns, it was at the dining room’s center that novices and long time fans were situated just prior to 6:00pm, Carte Blanche once again deferred to the kitchen with one diner gracefully accommodated for religious dietary restrictions.
A milestone birthday for one guest, and white glove treatment afforded to all in attendance, it was following a Champagne toast that the night started with Michael Mina’s timeless Caviar Parfait commanding attention from black Eggs to crispy Potato Cake with palates cleansed between bites by Belvedere Vodka.
Taking liberties with Mina’s housemade Laffa next, the traditional Bread Basket and Spreads replaced by Black Truffles and honeyed-Labneh, another classic soon arrived, arguably the best Tuna Tartare offered anywhere in town thanks to not only the Fish’s pristine quality but a complex balance created by Mint, Peppers and Garlic.
Returning with the same Crudo trio as in November, Japanese Uni brilliantly balancing Salt and Citrus with light florals while tangy Sumac acted as a foil to Red Onion served atop line-caught Trout, Scallops again paired well to Orange segments plus Buttermilk prior to a second look at Coffee-dusted Duck Liver served alongside spicy Mole and Sugar-shellacked Bread.
Dressing up Hand-Cut Pasta on this night with Black Truffles, as though Butter cooked down with Sea Urchin were not enough, Foie Gras arrived for the second time as a seared Lobe alongside Scallops and Salsify, the richness undeniable but carefully reined in by Mushrooms as well as Turnips.
Specifically requesting Michael’s famous Pot Pie for first-timers, three full-sized vessels arriving with Crustacean, Brandied Cream, Black Truffles and Vegetables beneath a golden dome, it was by way of dueling 24oz Dry-Aged Rib Eyes that savories concluded as “Surf n’ Turf” that gathered plenty of eyes from nearby tables.
A celebration to remember, particularly considering dark days to follow, Desserts from Vivian Chang took center stage to finish, the seasonal Panna Cotta walking a tightrope of sweet and sour atop peerless textures while Chocolate Cake, a picturesque Pineapple Parfait and two new items including Pistachio-Cherry Marble Cake and an airy Soufflé pairing Coconut to Sesame were even more delightful to eat than they were to look at.
FIVE STARS: Following its 2018 reinvention MICHAEL MINA Restaurant took a big step forward, and with Chefs Nick Dugan and Vivian Chang now overseeing the Kitchen and Pastry program, respectively, the Restaurant continues to get better and better with each seasonal update.
RECOMMENDED: Michael Mina’s Caviar Parfait, Marinated Bay Scallops, Chilled Foie Gras, Hand-Cut Tajarin, Roasted Diver Scallops & Foie Gras, Michael’s Lobster Pot Pie, Coconut Soufflé, Spiced Panna Cotta, Pistachio-Cherry Sumac Marbled.
AVOID: N/A.
TIP: The Market List Menu is prone to daily change, and for those on a budget (or tight schedule) the recently-added lounge menu looks to offer guests a more casual way to experience some of Chef Dugan’s Food.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Lo Mein – Roast Pork, Celery, Mushrooms, Bean Sprouts, Red Pepper
Apple Pie Bao Buns – Baked Apples, Cinnamon Sugar
Begun as a counter-service concept inside T-Mobile Arena, Graffiti Bao has been making itself known to Southwest Las Vegas since September 2019, the opportunity to cater Marc Marrone’s Food in February going over so well with staff that delivery from 7355 South Buffalo Drive was requested once again just two-weeks later.
Previously discussing Chef Marrone’s background here, time with Tao Group unequivocally involved in Asian Cuisine capable of satisfying both discerning diners and folks that typically gravitate to Panda Express, it was on-time that Marc and another Graffiti Bao Chef arrived with everything necessary, professionalism and safety never in question.
Opting for favorites from the first gig, in addition to new items, Crab Rice was predictably the first stop for many, and although the funky Fish Sauce and restrained heat were once again highly praised Graffiti Bao’s Kung Pao Beef was arguably favored by more guests with nearly every bit of tender Protein and Peanuts gone by the end of lunch hour.
Neglecting White Rice to save stomach capacity for better things, at least three whole Scallion Pancakes doused in aromatic Oil included, fans of Fast-Food immediately recognized Marrone’s Orange Chicken as superior to the original while Chicken Dumplings slicked in Black Vinegar and Chili Oil made quick friends with the same staff who apply Sambal liberally to everything.
Not forgetting Lo Mein, the wide Noodles picking up a lot of umami from Pork and Vegetables, Bao came in three varieties, Kung Pao Chicken and Apple Pie making a return visit while BBQ Pork outpaces the Cantonese variety typically offered at Dim Sum thanks to less sweetness and earthy aromatics provided by Mushrooms.
N/A: Making it blog policy to not ‘rate’ places based on catering alone, Graffiti Bao sets a very high standard in terms of customer service, while all nine items were nicely presented, displaying “Fusion” without being compromised and appealing to everyone from Indian to Asian to Hispanic to Vietnamese at a range of income levels and travel experiences.
RECOMMENDED: Scallion Pancakes, BBQ Pork Bao Buns, Mandarin Orange Chicken, Lo Mein, Apple Pie Bao Buns.
AVOID: N/A.
TIP: Southwest location is open: Monday through Saturday from 11:00am to 9:30pm and Sunday from 11:00am to 9:00pm. Follow @GraffitiBao for specials including Industry discounts and community support projects during the pandemic.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Good Garlic Knots – Roasted Fresh Garlic, Garlic Confit, Garlic Oil, Mozzarella, Garlic Chips, Fresh Grated Grana Padano, Fresh Parsley, served with Marinara Sauce
Good Balls – Homemade Beef and Pork Meatballs, Marinara Sauce, Fresh Parm, Fresh Parsley
Good House Salad – Chopped Romaine Lettuce, Cherry Tomatoes, Artichoke Hearts, Black Olives, Shaved Red Onions, Balsamic Vinaigrette
The Good Good Grandma Style – Mozzarella, Fresh Mozzarella, Grana, Tomato Sauce, Sausage, Artichoke Hearts, Oregano
Johnny Be Good Grandma Style – Tomato Sauce, Pecorino, Fresh Garlic, Mozzarella, Fresh Mozzarella, Caramelized Onions, Roasted Mushrooms, Italian Sausage, Grana Padano, Fresh Basil
A Good Time Detroit Style – Mozzarella, Fresh Mozzarella, Grana, Meatballs, Ricotta, Tomato Sauce, Basil
Good Pep Brooklyn Round – Mozzarella, Fresh Mozzarella, Grana, Tomato Sauce, Pepperoni
Good White Detroit Style – Mozzarella, Fresh Mozzarella, Pecorino, Garlic Oil, Fresh Whipped Ricotta, Shaved Parm, Fresh Parsley
Its All Good Brooklyn Round – Tomato Sauce, Mozzarella, Fresh Mozzarella, Pecorino, Italian Sausage, Shaved Red Onion, Chili Flakes, Mike’s Hot Honey, Shaved Parm, Fresh Parsley
Thats Dat Good Sh&t Gluten Free Detroit Style – Cream Sauce, Porcini Mushrooms, Truffles, Mozzarella, Fresh Mozzarella, Wild Mushrooms, Local Onions, Truffle Oil, Parsley
With a new, more complete version of Good Pie soon to debut on Main Street, it seemed only right to #supportlocal with some of Vincent Rotolo’s top quality Pizza on Tuesday, and just like deliveries one, two , three, four and five the results spoke volumes about passion, personality and quality Ingredients.
N/A: Making it blog policy to not ‘rate’ places based on catering alone Good Pie remains as enjoyable delivered as it is in store regardless of what Rotolo will tell you, and if anyone has not had the chance to check it out by now then they owe it to themselves to do so immediately because in eight tries there has yet to be one bad bite on the menu.
RECOMMENDED: Johnny Be Good Grandma Style, Its All Good Brooklyn Round, Thats Dat Good Sh&t Gluten Free Detroit Style, A Good Time Detroit Style, Good Balls, Good Garlic Knots.
AVOID: N/A.
TIP: Open 11am daily with online or phone orders available, delivery offered via Postmates within a 5-mile radius.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Making Malasadas in Monterey Park since March of 2019, dot & dough may not be peddling the same fried Dough one finds in Hawaii, but with flavors like “Magic Matcha” or “Homer Vanilla” the calorie-dense confections have nevertheless developed a following.
In reality a Portuguese creation, the original recipe essentially Brioche Doughnuts rolled in Sugar, most Americans are likely more familiar with the oversized version popularized by Leonard’s, but inside the store at 141 North Atlantic Boulevard prices ranging $1.50-$3.00 see smaller sizes thus encouraging guests to order a greater variety.
An easy stop for those who find themselves in the San Gabriel Valley, perhaps en route from Los Angeles to Las Vegas or vice versa, dot & dough occupies the former home of Ganache Patisserie, a lengthy space fronted by cash register and a small display of Pastry Chef Nick Mui’s daily variety.
The brainchild of Restaurateur Jason Tsai, and one reports suggest he’d like to expand west, it was at a cost of just over $10 including tax that four Malasadas were acquired, the $1.50 Classic yeasty with good elasticity and subtle notes of Egg while Cookies & Cream labeled “Most Popular” is clumsy and under-filled despite being double the price.
Far better without over-sweet Frosting, filled-to-order “Donut Puffs” on this day available in five flavors, it was at the expense of Belgian Chocolate and French Vanilla that more unique options were selected, Taro predictably mild and a little like Coconut while Taiwanese Brown Sugar tastes identical to Tiger Sugar’s infamous Drink but with a texture akin to Custard in the center.
Quail, Savory, Quince Paste, Black Trumpet Mushroom
Beef Ribs, Black Garlic Glaze, Torn Herbs
Flan, Orange Marmalade, Granite
Dacquoise, Chocolate, Hazelnut, Lime
A native of North Carolina with Restaurant blood in his veins, auburn is Eric Bost’s first solo project, and from the moment one enters the space at 6703 Melrose Avenue a sense of calm takes over even though the hustle of Hollywood is steps away outside.
Educated in New York, trained in Paris and a former top toque at Guy Savoy Las Vegas, Chef Bost’s pedigree is undeniable, and at auburn the former-Hatfield’s has been completely reborn via local materials while Bost’s cooking takes on California seasonality with passion at a price-point more favorable than the majority of Los Angeles’ “fine dining” venues.
The recipient of Michelin stars in the past, and likely poised for more with a multi-course prix fixe Dinner service built to be flexible, Brunch sees auburn bathed in light from multiple angles while an a la carte template offers some twenty one items ranging widely in terms of inspiration as well as complexity.
Friendly in terms of service, far moreso than Bon Temps or Pasjoli despite their higher pricing, it was as a party of seven that diners sat at a lengthy table, questions of portion-size easily navigated and eventually yielding seventeen different plates with duplicates of some as recommended.
Surrounded by earth tones, a sort of warmth that compliments Bost’s ability to coax local Ingredients further than most would think to try, Brunch began with Coffee and Cocktails alongside Pastry, time at République clearly evidenced in the shattering exterior and honeycomb crumb of auburn’s Cinnamon Croissant while the Almond version would have benefited from perhaps half as much Frangipane, or ground Nuts instead.
Continuing light, a cup of Yogurt zigging-and-zagging across the palate thanks to smoke, Sugar and Citrus, those undeterred by Carbs should not miss Bost’s hearty Bread with Apple Butter, nor the Dutch Pancake that hints sour in spots but finds balance in Huckleberries and nutty Cream on opposing edges.
Pacing out the meal across four courses, the second seeing cold and hot Sea Bream shine from carefully wrapped Ceviche to unctuous Collar, those unsure about Eel before noon should rest assured that Bost’s eats with even broader appeal than “A Side of Pork Belly” while “Grains” and “Abalone Mushrooms” come in sharable portions featuring a variety of tastes and textures not to be ignored.
Warned that Pan-Roasted Brioche would come out as ready, the waitress’ description of “basted” French Toast otherwise a kitchen secret, suffice it to say that as-doused in Honey Caramel there are few Breakfast plates anywhere in L.A. that can compete in terms of sweetness while Brassicas and Grits each utilize Egg Yolks and char to satisfy folks seeking more savory stuff.
Not shy with fermented flavors, glazed Quail and a generous Beef Rib each featuring tender Flesh that tastes as though it may have come out of the momofuku cookbook, Dessert at Brunch is scaled down substantially from Dinner, but between dense Flan with a sour sidecar and a crunchy Dacquoise “Sandwich” with Chocolate and Lime competing for top billing the results suggest a return for dinner should happen sooner rather than later.
Chocolate Chip Oatmeal Griddle Cake – 60.5% Tcho Dark Couverture
Although the original Salt’s Cure transported its Meat-heavy menu from West Hollywood to Hollywood over four years ago, the space at 7494 Santa Monica Boulevard has been back in business since May of 2017, Breakfast by Salt’s Cure offering a concise counter-service experience including both their Breakfast Sandwich and legendary Griddle Cakes.
One of those Restaurants originally made “famous” by a review, because little about either Salt’s Cure screams “look at me” save for honest-to-goodness Food in the #instagram era, it is even before entering the WeHo location that guests will notice tiles reading “Griddle Cakes Here,” and true to their word it is these that make up more than 50% of the menu.
Little more than brick, flat-top, chairs and tables, orders placed up front and paid for prior to sitting down with a number, it was as music played and a particularly loud “entrepreneur” held court that guests waited, a slow Sunday yielding three plates in ten minutes and first bites of Breakfast’s Breakfast Sandwich attesting to good Ingredients with an eye towards balance.
Refusing to offer Syrup, a point made by staff as well as website, Griddle Cakes come in five varieties including the “OG” that earned Salt’s Cure “Best Brunch” accolades from L.A. Weekly in 2013, and regardless of one’s particular preference for sweetness it would be difficult to fault a buttery crisp exterior and aromatic insides topped with melting Salted Butter regardless of what additional constituents are added to the Batter.
Still under the radar despite modest fanfare after opening in an El Segundo early-June 2018, Chef Jackson Kalb’s Jame Enoteca sees the under-30 Chef with training at Joël Robuchon, Alinea, Factory Kitchen and others turning out soulful Food with big flavors that typify Cal-Italian.
Never purporting to be a traditional Italian Restaurant, in fact quite the opposite as Kalb’s seasonal menu is firmly rooted in local markets, Jame Enoteca resides in a nondescript strip mall at 241 Main Street, and only accepting prix-fixe reservations for large parties only the Restaurant’s small size virtually guarantees a wait for all but the earliest arrivals.
Tight and oddly illuminated by neon, a sign reading “feed me pasta and tell me I’m pretty” casting its pink glow across 24 inside seats, Jame nearly doubles its size by spilling over outside where a collection of metal tables and chairs crosses over the entryway for dry cleaners and shops closed at night.
Amicable in terms of service, a young woman reciting specials and explaining some of Kalb’s unique ideas such as “Hollywood” style Bolognese with Avocado, it was from one of the outside tables that a meal was crafted in three courses, $4 Bread better for the “Umami Butter” than the Ciabatta itself but Meatballs nicely-packed and plenty juicy with Pork gently reined in by Potatoes and Tomato Sauce.
Called “one of the best places to eat Pasta in all of Los Angeles” by local media, on-site fabrication of more than a dozen varieties surprising considering Jame’s small size, course one additionally featured delicate Spring Pea Agnolotti in a what is essentially Brodo, a touch of Marjoram and imported Cheese adding more brightness that stands in stark contrast to Ricotta Gnudi that defines “rich” with Brown Butter and its Solids.
Ignoring secondi entirely, but faced with tough decisions as relates to Tagliatelle, Lasagna and others, it turns out that Kalb’s Capellini is one of the Restaurant’s best sellers despite sloppy plating and too much Sauce, the better bet a single flat sheet of Mandilli generously ladled with Three-Nut Pesto that lives up to the menu’s description as “silky.”
Clearly earning the love of South Bay residents, and deserving of such as Jame Enoteca takes no shortcuts despite independent ownership and slim margins, Dolci is largely a “pick ’em” of excellence, the increasingly famous Meyer Lemon Pie sweet yet tangy beneath a scoop of Fresh Whipped Cream while Nutella Mascarpone Cake is precisely as decadent as its Ingredients suggest.
At this point throwing caution to the wind as relates to calories, all four Desserts ordered by three guests at a table best suited for two, those looking for the photogenicity of Bon Temps or Pasjoli should take their overstuffed wallets elsewhere, because at Jame Enoteca the Bread Pudding and Pavlova come rustic and delicious with similar (or better) quality Berries in twice the portion for about 3/4 the price.
Loved by celebrity Chef David Chang, Spoon by H was thrust into the spotlight unexpectedly, and with praise from LA Times critic Bill Addison soon to follow the Korean Restaurant on Beverly Boulevard has maintained a continuous buzz despite terse service and a kitchen whose attention to detail is somewhat in question.
Standing at address 7158 in a nondescript shopping center since late-2012, technically not Korea Town but actually Fairfax, Spoon By H features the work of Yoonjin Hwang and up until 2018 flew mostly under the radar, but in one simple tweet a Dessert Café became much more and Yoon’s place went from cozy Korean kitchen to lines suddenly out the door.
Family owned and offering free parking, a rarity that cannot be overstated anywhere in LA, it is after passing a pair of patio tables that guests find themselves inside a space suited for two-dozen, temperatures a bit high around 5:00pm but plenty of seats available just prior to a dinner-time rush.
Parading fresh production of everything on-site, a Menu of homestyle dishes laminated back-to-back with Coffee, Tea and Sweets, guests are instructed to order and pay prior to seating, Hwang’s most famous item in reality “off-menu” and something fairly recent from a woman whose kitchen skills are entirely self-trained.
Arriving in the United States on a music scholarship, and something of an “American Dream” story as told by fans, Spoon by H’s signature goes by the title “Manduguk” or Pork Belly Dumplings, the soft pieces of flesh on this day found alongside Udon instead of Mung Bean Noodles with Onions, Vegetables and Rice Cakes also found amidst a generous bowl of Broth.
Looking around at an entirely Asian clientele, most speaking English to friendly Food runners, it was without a word that Cold Brew and shaved Ice arrived just three minutes after Soup, the Salted Caramel Cream light and amicable to sweet Syrup but served without menu-listed Mochi and Salted Caramel Popcorn that had certainly been paid for.
Despite shuttering Fiona after just nine months Chef Nicole Rucker is back at it with a kiosk inside Grand Central Market, the limited-hours “Fat + Flour” selling some of her famous Baked Goods while a kickstarter and pop-ups such as Nicole’s birthday event with Milk Cult seek to offer something more in the near future.
Known through years baking for others including Travis Lett and James Starr, plus 2019 cookbook “Dappled,” Rucker’s concise collection is located just upstairs adjacent Belcampo Meat Co., and although choices are said to change weekly those willing to arrive early will likely find slices of signature Key Lime and Chocolate Chess Pies.
Sharing the stage this on this particular Saturday with East-Coast-based Milk Cult, it was once through a short line that choices came easy, $4 scoops of Harry’s Berries Strawberry Ice Cream and creamy “Bacon” Avocado each subtly stunning while a Dark Chocolate Brownie achieves similar taste as Rucker’s Chess with less Pudding-like consistency.
Saving the best for last, its recipe in “Dappled” labor-intensive enough to justify prices some consider steep, the thought of settling for just one slice of Fat + Flour’s Key Lime Pie seemed negligent while a double-cut wedge was perhaps “too much” for one guest, but not enough to stop this writer from finishing.
