Despite shuttering Fiona after just nine months Chef Nicole Rucker is back at it with a kiosk inside Grand Central Market, the limited-hours “Fat + Flour” selling some of her famous Baked Goods while a kickstarter and pop-ups such as Nicole’s birthday event with Milk Cult seek to offer something more in the near future.
Known through years baking for others including Travis Lett and James Starr, plus 2019 cookbook “Dappled,” Rucker’s concise collection is located just upstairs adjacent Belcampo Meat Co., and although choices are said to change weekly those willing to arrive early will likely find slices of signature Key Lime and Chocolate Chess Pies.
Sharing the stage this on this particular Saturday with East-Coast-based Milk Cult, it was once through a short line that choices came easy, $4 scoops of Harry’s Berries Strawberry Ice Cream and creamy “Bacon” Avocado each subtly stunning while a Dark Chocolate Brownie achieves similar taste as Rucker’s Chess with less Pudding-like consistency.
Saving the best for last, its recipe in “Dappled” labor-intensive enough to justify prices some consider steep, the thought of settling for just one slice of Fat + Flour’s Key Lime Pie seemed negligent while a double-cut wedge was perhaps “too much” for one guest, but not enough to stop this writer from finishing.
Heirloom Cornmeal Waffle – Mango-Guava Jam, Whipped Burrata, Sea Salt
Pineapple Upside Down Morning Bun
Opened in Fall of 2018, and at the time considered a big addition to Los Feliz, Atrium remains an impressive indoor-outdoor venue, though based on a bait n’ switch online menu that replaces Caviar + Chicken Oysters with Hot Honey and Congee Carbonara with “Very” Cheesy Eggs one wonders just how well Chef Hunter Pritchett’s concept was selling even before COVID-19.
Known for its picturesque bowstring truss ceiling and alley location off North Vermont Avenue, money from restaurateurs Jay Milliken and Beau Laughlin creating a space built for the #gram, it is from an outdoor podium that guests are led past open-air seating to a continuous wooden space with visible kitchen in the back.
Idyllic for sipping Mimosas in the daytime, though only open before 4:00pm on Weekends, it is once seated that guests are urged to order Cocktails, deferring visibly disapproved of by a young female server who was pleasant but largely absent despite only two tables to take care of from 11:00am until noon.
Attempting to embrace the cultural diversity of Los Angeles across 19 Brunch plates, some mere modifications of another and options woefully out-of-date in comparison to the online offerings suggested in early March, it was only after realizing both items identified as a reason to visit had been 86’d “weeks” prior that others were chosen, the Cornmeal Waffle without bells and whistles small but enjoyable beneath tangy Jam and whipped Cheese.
Turning to Chef Gregory Baumgartner for Pastry, his work at 71Above highly regarded before making the move, suffice it to say that ideas look a bit more casual at Atrium and although Grilled Focaccia served at dinner gets lots of press it seems hard to believe it is any better than “Those Biscuits” glistening with Butter or a daily Morning Bun that on this occasion placed springy Brioche beneath Pineapples, Cherries and Rum.
If one doesn’t follow any “influencers” it is easy to know nothing about Konbi and the Egg Salad Sandwich that set social media ablaze in 2018, but when trusted friends suggested the tiny daytime Restaurant in Echo Park served a world-class Chocolate Croissant interest was piqued, and true to their word Akira Akuto’s Viennoiserie straight from the oven is an undeniable masterpiece.
Low-key and narrow with simple signage, the kind of place that hundreds walk by daily without a second thought, Konbi can now be noticed thanks to crowds gathered around its takeout window where a collection of patio furniture doubles the inside seating capacity.
Skinny without feeling crowded, a counter abutting the line offering space for ten, it was thirty minutes after opening on Saturday that one stool remained empty, the menu-listed Red Walnut Tart reportedly “unavailable” but Iced Coffee and a fair-to-middling Canelé at $4 each helping to bridge the 20-minute span before another round of sold-out Croissants would be ready.
Nicely lit and friendly as relates to service, one Chef taking time to touch tables after placing Laminated Dough in a small oven, the diligence with which everything from Sandwiches to Salads is made can be witnessed at short range, and in less than the time it took to describe Konbi’s concept an Eggplant Katsu Sandwich was in hand with Veggies fried crisp amidst soft Bread, Cabbage and Condiments with some kick.
Not rushed despite the crowd, a number coated in plastic assuring the next Croissant available, assume it safe to say that instructions to let it “cool down” were loosely followed, a shattering shell giving way to honeycombed crumb surrounding still-molten core of Dark Chocolate with subtle Fruit notes carried across the palate by plenty of Butter.
Named after Tarte Tropézienne, a classic French Cake made of Brioche with Orange Blossom perfumed Crème Pâtissière, La Tropezienne Bakery now has two locations in Los Angeles, the original on La Brea offering classic Viennoiseries and other Pastries at a range of prices with some good and others fairly average.
Aiming to bring a taste of France to the city of Angels, birthright for La Tropézienne Bakery’s founders, it is upon entry that the Bakery’s small size unveils itself, the kitchen taking up equal portion as counter space which thus leaves room for perhaps a dozen guests to sit and indulge.
Open at 7:00am daily, and once named the “Best Croissant in Los Angeles,” La Tropezienne’s choices entail a wide range of Pastries and Viennoiseries, prices higher than most American cities but not out-of-line in L.A. where Iced Coffee under $4 and $2.75 for a nicely-textured Cookie could be seen as a bargain.
A mix of classics and seasonal specials, the Pistachio Chocolate Chip Roll and a questionably colored forest green Croissant with a dollop of Raspberry Jam amongst signatures, suffice it to say that both were fine but not awe-inspiring while a $6.50 Apricot Tart fared better thanks to plenty of Fruit carried by Almond Custard.
Turning savory for a moment with the Spinach & Goat Cheese Friand, still flaky after being toasted warm, Caramel comes creamy and plentiful inside the upright Dulce De Leche Viennoiserie while ground Almonds as opposed to Frangipane anchor an Almond Croissant that could have benefited from shorter bake-time.
Saving the eponymous Cake for last, but first pleasantly surprised by an unapologetically inauthentic Nutella Danish, those turned off by floral flavors should steer clear of Tropezienne in any size, and at approximately $2.50 per mouthful the slightly dry Brioche Sandwich is hard to recommend regardless.
Omelette aux Truffes – Fines Herbes, Black Truffle, Gruyère, Salad
Champignons – Hen of the Woods Mushrooms, White Beans, Buckwheat Crêpe
Tarte au Fraise – Tamai Family Farms Strawberries, Whipped Yogurt
Mont Blanc – Chestnut Mousse, Hazelnut Praline, Salted Caramel
Soufflé au Chocolat – Bitter Chocolate, Vanilla Ice Cream
Riz au Lait – Rice Pudding, Rum-roasted Pineapple, Pecans
Fromage – Pont-l’Évêque, Almond, Seasonal Jam
Unlike many first-timers at Pasjoli this diner had already tasted Canard à la Presse from Dave Beran, on June 16th 2011 at Next, the passage of time now seeing Chef Beran at his own Restaurant in Santa Monica where dour service and exposed beams feel out of place considering the gorgeous plating and aggressive prices for half-portions (literally and figuratively) of Food.
Taking a step back, the 10,000 foot view as some might say, Pasjoli is self-described as “an elevated French bistro” and from outside seems every bit the part, large glass windows peering into 2732 Main Street where not a seat is to be found as conversations fueled by Wine frequently reach high volume.
An homage to classic French cooking, framed through the lens of Southern California’s bounty, it is once amidst the Restaurant’s off-white glow that guests will notice details such as painted silk wallpaper plus marble, a certain degree of luxury balanced by dusty brick and green foliage leading from bar to open kitchen and brigade within.
Beautiful despite a name translated as “not pretty,” clearly flippant considering the impeccable appearance of everything across a multi-section menu, it was in monotone that a waiter (guaranteed his pay thanks to Pasjoli’s “no-tipping” policy) answered questions, his hedging about portion sizes for five better understood later as there is very little besides the $185 Duck capable of being adequately shared by such a group.
Undoubtedly a skilled Chef, Beran’s cooking style at the same time reflective and improvisational, Pasjoli’s menu fits right into his wheelhouse, “Ragoût d’oignons Caramélisés” for instance riffing on the idea of French Onion Soup inside a delicate Short Crust Shell while perhaps two-ounces of Crab commands $27 amidst creamed Cauliflower not nearly so special as Lincoln Carson’s Crustacean construction at Bon Temps downtown.
Upselling half-Baguettes for $9 by way of House-Cultured French Butter, easily double the cost of Paris’ best, it was at similar price that guests were allowed to purchase eight Brown Butter Potato Chips typically sold with Caviar, their flavor largely indistinguishable from Lay’s though a thicker cut yielded better crunch.
Progressing with all the right terms, several Mother Sauces building up an inclusive glossary, Brandad de Morue was a welcome surprise with texture akin to something made by iSi Whip while $26 Tete de Cochon offered one decent mouthful for the four diners willing to partake, though admittedly the balance achieved between Lentils, Meat and Greens was faultless.
Understanding the cost of Caviar, and thus not surprised that Pasjoli’s Quenelle is as tiny as it is sublime, it was after soaking up all the residual Beurre Blanc with another half-Baguette that a Chef rolled up with his teak trolley, the ruby-red flesh of Duck soon exposed by quick knife strokes and poultry shears before Breast is returned to the kitchen with innards left to be crushed into Sauce tableside.
Straight from Escoffier for the Sauce, expressed Blood slowly simmered with Herbs, Bordeaux and Cognac, the rest of Pasjoli’s Duck is largely like any other Magret, which leaves room to shine for Sides including Duck Skin Salad and decadent Bread Pudding with the Confit Legs of another Bird, though equally impressive is Fennel Gratin and Broccolini with a bit of snap mixed with Béarnaise and Pork.
Not limiting the child of mother Hollandaise to just Vegetables, but using Béarnaise also to top poached Lobster surrounded in Puff Pastry, Beran does not forget vegetarians with the one-two punch of Omelette and Crêpe, and no matter how one feels about eating Animals it is hard to imagine any Restaurant doing “breakfast for dinner” better in 2020.
Placing the aforementioned in Chef de cuisine Matthew Kim’s capable hands, but listing no specific Pastry Chef, Pasjoli runs a gamut of sweets with traditional roots, composed Cheese service as a textural Parfait the highlight along with a textbook Mont Blanc while the $19 half-Tart and five-bite Souffle for $24 are laughable, as too would be 1/4 the portion of L’Ami Jean’s Rice Pudding at a similar cost if the boozy Pineapple and sidecar of Caramel weren’t so good.
Family owned, and focused on sustainability as well as customer service, Chunk-N-Chip serves small-batch Cookies plus Ice Cream inside Santa Ana’s 4th Street Market and has been doing so since August of 2018.
Taking an old time approach, with a spotlight on locally-sourced ingredients served without additives, it is along the Market’s outside wall that guests will find a brightly lit space with friendly customer service, prices trending lower than the likes of Salt n’ Straw though creativity admittedly also lags slightly.
Known best for “Sammiches,” two oven-warmed Cookies surrounding a scoop of Ice Cream for $6.80, Chunk-N-Chip sweetens the deal by offering samples of both halves, the rounds difficult to get a grasp of in tiny fragments but enough to know “Rose Almond” is far too floral while Red Velvet with Fruity Pebbles is better than it sounds.
Offering plenty of room for customization, the concise collection also available at $1.95 per Cookie and $4.50 a scoop, the best deal for those desiring variety comes by half-Sammich, salty-sweet Kitchen Sinks delicious whether studded by Cereal or gooey from Nutella while frozen “Ding Dong” riffs on Hostess nicely, but comes up short in texture compared to smooth White Chocolate imbued with crunchy bits of Honeycomb.
Classic Detroit – Cheese Pizza with two stripes of Marinara on top
Steel Pan Pizza aims to embrace “the aesthetic of industrial square pans, caramelized crusts and hearty Midwestern cuisine” with a kiosk inside Santa Ana’s 4th Street Market, and aside from advertising suggesting Motown or The Motor City is “often referred to as Motortown City” they do an acceptable job, though comparisons to Buddy’s are farfetched.
Opened in January 2019, around the same time others on both coasts began to take notice of Detroit’s signature style, it is in the era of social media and culinary-cross-pollination that Steel Pan Pizza plys its trade, customer service friendly enough but largely just serving a role by exchanging money for a beeper, then the beeper for a Pie.
Charging Orange County prices for 8” x 8” x 2” pans, $8 for a classic which will likely sate most, the first thing Pizza-heads will notice is a less caramelized edge than many Detroit squares, Steel Pan’s quick-casual service suggesting parbaking with Butter no longer soaking the pan by the time it enters the oven to be finished.
Moving next to toppings, “Always Fresh Ingredients” per advertising, a review of photos online suggests Steel Pan would be well served to weigh their Cheese prior to topping, some pictures indicating an exaggerated lattice while others do less-so, the importance of this particularly relevant in the setting of Sauce that trends a bit too sweet.
Birria Tour – Red Taco, Taco Dorado, Quesabirria, Consommé
Red Taco
Begun as a Candy Shop mid-2015, but establishing itself as a Birreria in 2018, La Súper Birria has quickly emerged as one of Orange County’s most notable family-owned eateries, Edgar the Birriamaster and his wife Rosie specializing in Birria de Res featuring the traditional flavors of Sahuayo Michoacán right down to the housemade Tortillas and Salsa.
Located at 1041 West First Street in Santa Ana, a fairly non-descript retail center save for an abundance of parked cars that suggest passers-by take notice, it is even prior to entry that would-be diners will hear traditional music playing, the festive atmosphere continued once inside where parasols hang upside down to create a photogenic ceiling.
Utilizing Beef as the base for La Súper Birria’s secret recipe, rather than Goat, it is from a concise menu with fair prices that guests are left to make decisions, counter-style ordering requesting payment prior to seat selection where items are delivered by number.
Raising expectations with fresh Salsa and handmade Tortillas, a rarity at La Súper’s pricepoint, it was not far from a mechanical bull and televisions that a spread was laid, Condiments followed by a “Birria Tour” plus one extra Red Taco begging to be dipped in saporous Consommé.
Born in Guadalajara, but a SoCal resident since 1998, some have said that the secret to Edgar’s Birria is that it is finely chopped with added spices after being removed from its cooking liquid, but no matter what method it would be difficult to find fault in either crispy Tacos Dorado or an extra-cheesy “Quesabirria” with a squeeze of Lime.
Founded in 2010, and since expanded from San Juan Capistrano to Santa Ana, Hidden House Coffee is no longer so secret, though the Café inside a 1914 brick warehouse retains an intimate feeling where locals gather to talk, sip and eat in front of an 18 Kilogram capacity roaster.
A passion project from owner Ben Briggs, Hidden House’s expansion from what some consider the oldest street in California a calculated move targeting new clientele plus increased output, it is along East Santa Ana Boulevard that guests will find the 2,400-square-foot space surrounding a central bar with outside patio and on-site bakery near opposing doors.
Urban in location but vintage by appearance, brick and concrete softened by foliage, it is once seating is secured that most make their way to room’s center, baristas either buzzed or flighty but extremely laid back while detailing the flavor profiles of several roasts offered as Espresso or Pour-Over.
Using Mahlkonig grinders and Synesso machines with all the expected noise, while overhead music is predictable Coffee Shop stuff, it was eventually opting for Cocoa-perfumed Cold Brew that the bill was paid, the next ninety minutes spent sipping while using free Wi-Fi and indulging in Pastry.
All in-house production, the roaster up front and bakeshop visible through glass, Breakfast began with Banana Bread, its crumb fragrant and moist with Raisins while Almonds as well as Walnuts each added texture and their characteristic taste.
Continuing with Fruit, Hidden House’s Scones nothing like the dry and flavorless versions found throughout England, only those who like *lots* of Frangipane should consider the almond Croissant filled with cloying Paste, while the Chocolate Chip Cookies are somewhat slight on Chips but otherwise well-made with crispy edge around soft center.
PB&J – Yeast Donut, Peanut Butter Glaze, Raspberry Jam
Plain Glaze – Yeast Donut, Vanilla Bean Glaze
Owned by Victor and Brooke DesPrez, Oliboli Donuts is self-described as a “business built on family values and simple Ingredients,” but for those lucky enough to visit these Orange County natives the fact is that there is nothing simple about fried-to-order 40-hour fermented Dough and artisan housemade Toppings.
Serving Tustin since October of 2018, a complex on 1st Street no different than any other on the outside, guests entering Oliboli Donuts will immediately notice a lengthy countertop decorated in Fried Dough, some twenty-six choices on this particular Friday, though what is visible serves for display purposes only.
Home to both Yeast and Cake rings, not to mention Bismarcks and savory selections intended to eat like a meal, it is with wide eyes that one surveys the scene as they are greeted by staff members, all exceedingly pleasant and educated about both products and process.
Later learning that one crew member was Mr. DesPrez, his passion for Doughnuts readily evident during a five-minute conversation while each choice was made-to-order, it was to a party of six that eight warm rings were delivered, an additional three Oliebollen starting things off with bright aromatics amidst stone-milled Flour and subtle Fruit sweetness.
Creatively decorated with a mural plus children’s drawings, next bites took a look at Brooke’s spin on Croque Madame, every penny of its $8.50 cost more than justified by good Prosciutto and Cheese plus housemade Mornay Sauce and a bright yellow Egg finished with Black Lava Salt.
Able to watch the kitchen work though a window, each Donut carefully maneuvered in boiling oil with a pair of metal rods, even-frying is best noticed by way of Plain Glaze, fermentation yielding large air pockets also noteworthy within a Strawberry circle shellacked in reduced Harry’s Berries from the market.
Looking seasonally with Semla, a bit of Cardamom in the Batter recreating a Swedish classic topped in Almond Paste plus two types of Cream, Native Americans also get a nod through thinner “Fry Bread,” its crispness more prominent than the rest of Oliboli’s offerings and a competent delivery mechanism for Homemade Ricotta Cheese and fresh Raspberry Jam.
Happy to find two more jammy-options, the alternative choice of Passion Fruit leading to all three being topped with Raspberry, suffice it to say that Oliboli’s Peanut Butter doesn’t come in a thick glob but instead reduced with Sugar and surprisingly potent while seasonal-special Banoffee gives credit to England with Homemade Banana Whipped Cream, Fresh Banana, Toffee Sauce and Streusel atop the pillow-soft base.
Strawberry Pavlova – Harry’s Berries, Litchi, Rose Geranium
Gateaux Philadelphia – Tahitian Vanilla, Hibiscus, Red Currant
St. Honore – Pecan Mousseline, Chantilly, Caramel
Long employed as a Pastry Chef, Lincoln Carson’s CV includes Michelin 3* establishments in New York, Picasso Las Vegas and eight years as a corporate Chef for MINA Group, thus it should come as no surprise that the Food at Bon Temps in Los Angeles’ Arts District is visually stunning, which begs the question of how much fancy plating and a downtown address are worth in an ever-changing dining scene?
Debuted in Summer 2019, and quick to gather accolades from local press, it is down an alley off Santa Fe Avenue that guests will first notice gate and signage, an outdoor patio unveiled next while the expansive indoor space extends left from an elevated glass-enclosed kitchen.
The first solo Restaurant for Lincoln, Bestia around the corner and Bavel down the way both sporting lines prior to entry while Bon Temps remained 80% empty throughout a two-hour meal, it was at a long table amidst industrial-chic design that guests sat, service efficient but a bit too serious for someplace promising “good times.”
All exposed ductwork and marble, a dining area behind the bar narrow with a sense of intimacy, it was after requesting drinks that an order fell into place, prices predictably on the high side such as in the case of a forgettable Canapé Board that works out to approximately $5.25 per bite after tax and tip.
Sipping a Pecan Sour, its smoothness undeniable for such a Spirit-forward mix, better value is found in $7 “Bon Bread Service” featuring fluffy Carbs coated in Meyer Lemon and Leeks while Carson’s oft-praised Dungeness Crab dare not be called a “Cake” as the binder is Scallop Mousse rather than Bread Crumbs with a Pain de Mie Tuile separating Shellfish from Avocado and Greens.
Recently doing away with Breakfast as a result of slow sales, items “to continue” marched on with Rice and Pasta, Bon Temps’ Carolina Gold Risotto up-selling a wad of Ham atop Persimmons with reduced Truffles while Rye Cavatelli toys with the idea of Cacio e Pepe by way of Sarawak Pepper and Sbrinz that finishes sweet on the palate thanks to Brandy.
Only offering the $80 Jidori Chicken to-share Friday through Sunday all of a sudden, Entrees instead featured Maine Scallops and Duck, the former seared amidst Kohlrabi Puree with Hazelnuts for texture and the Breast a woefully small portion bolstered by eggy Bread with cooked Huckleberries.
More impressed by Sides than Main Courses, both Potatoes in Raclette Beer Cheese and creamy Grits with Mushrooms and sugary Onion Syrup served in sharable portions, Dessert is predictably where Carson’s cooking shines, a Soufflé that was requested early – per menu instructions – unfortunately forgotten by the waiter but Harry’s Berries atop crisp Meringue a sufficient stand-in.
Requesting Cold Brew Coffee to go with Dessert, its lingering Caramel notes well-suited to Bon Temps most famous creation, suffice it to say that the Cheesecake titled “Gateaux Philadelphia” will certainly have its fans, but in the end all will be clamoring about Carson’s $23 St. Honore that is equally complex and gorgeous thanks to superlative Choux, Bourbon-Vanilla Cake, Pecan Mousseline, Chocolate and Chantilly.
Opened in late 2017, Bae & Co. in Little Tokyo lives by the motto of putting customers before anything else, and although some may find it difficult to take the Soft Serve shop with a silly name seriously the truth is that both product and branding are equally well thought out.
Born in Los Angeles, and recently opened in Houston, it is steps from the Japanese American National Museum that guests will find the store, a tiny neon sign above 369 East 2nd Street leading to clean lines and monochrome colors plus a sign that reads “with love, from bae.” on the wall.
No doubt embracing the era of #instagram with bold colors and fancy presentations, Activated Charcoal turning Dole Whip-like Pineapple into a study of contrasts when blended with Vanilla to form “Mixed Feelings,” guests are invited to indulge from cup or Cone, the latter available in five varieties differing by color as well as flavor.
One of those “almost too friendly” places in terms of service, a lot of chit-chat plus $5.95 yielding several ounces of Soft Serve in a Cup, fans of Fro-Yo will quickly notice bae’s frozen treat is much thicker, and while Pineapple deserves its accolades it is actually herbaceous Earl Grey and Lakers-purple Ube with subtle sweetness that threaten to wrestle away the spotlight while Vanilla and Cocoa Puffs are merely okay.
Created by Steve Samson, of Rossoblu fame, Superfine Pizza is a Slice window dedicated to doing things right, and rooted in old-world traditions plus high-quality Ingredients the former Soto Chef is making superior New York-style Pies at a fair price compared to most of Los Angeles’ overpriced eateries.
Established in 2018, and owned by Chef Samson alongside his wife Dina, it is at the corner of 11th and San Pedro Streets that guests will find Superfine, a tucked away location nonetheless easily identified by brightly painted storefront and emoji-based signage.
Offering Slices, plus a larger variety of 18” rounds, it is from a sliding window that diners are invited to make their choices, a lack of interior space and limited outdoor seating creating for low overhead and costs hardly more than those of a Shopping Mall Food court.
Small and focused, triangles re-heated to-order but somehow retaining a Neapolitan feel thanks to buoyancy indicative of slow-fermented Dough, Superfine Pizza is open from 11:00am until 9:00pm on weekdays and 5:00-9:00 weekends, just 5 minutes separating walk-ups from a piping-hot Slice at most times.
Found in LA’s Fashion District, the former Produce market dubbed City Market South historically relevant to Pies reliant on Southern California’s bounty, it is beneath a good amount of Cheese and cupped Pepperoni that guests find vibrant Sauce, a crisp break yielding pliable crumb that also tastes great with no Sauce in support of Spinach and four Cheeses or Calabrian Sausage kissed by local Honey.
Buckwheat Waffle – Housemade Country Ham, Smoked Maple, Salted Butter
Fried Chicken Sandwich – Salt & Pepper Mayo, Pimento Cheese, Green Tomato, Potato Bun, House Pickles
Roasted Baby Carrots – Apple Butter, Walnut Dukkah, Vadouvan
Mama May’s Banana Bread – Ricotta, Whipped Honey, Buckwheat, Sea Salt
French Toast – Pineapple Jam, Rum Butter, Cinnamon Coconut Crunchies, Smoked Maple
Hotcake – Ricotta, Blueberries, Pistachio, Maple
White Corn Grits – Shrimp “Bolognese,” Fried Egg, Crispy Leeks
Buttermilk Biscuit
German Chocolate Marshmallow Pie – Coconut, Pecan
Banana Cream Pie – Dulce de Leche
In a city full of decades-old Diners it takes something special to make a splash in the genre, and at All Day Baby Chefs Jonathan Whitener and Thessa Diadem of Here’s Looking At You execute a melting pot menu with one-part precision and another whimsy.
Perhaps better described as “all American,” Los Angeles in particular drawing from broad cultural references across its ever-growing expanse, it was late-November 2019 that All Day Baby opened doors on Sunset, original hours from 8:00am until 3:00pm recently expanded to 10:00pm on Wednesday, Thursday and Sunday plus an hour later Friday and Saturday.
Situated in Silver Lake, Managing Partner Lien Ta responsible for an all-female service team that works efficiently with perpetual smiles, it is immediately upon entry to the 2,000 square foot space that guests feel a sense of ease, close-set seating responsible for sometimes high volume but the style of booths nonetheless providing privacy.
Dividing Bar from dining area, with bakery cases up-front offering added temptation, it was as a party of six that diners cut a wide swath through All Day Baby’s diverse offerings, Cold Brew Coffee and a classic Soda Shop Shake flavored by Pistachio plus self-service Water accompanying two soft-centered Cookies, a rich Blackout Brownie and one of four daily Concha that justifies its $6 cost with a housemade Jam center.
Trotting the globe for ingredients such as Vadouvan and Halvah, the latter creating a crunchy exterior for one of the aforementioned Cookies while the other teams with Apple Butter and Dukkah to yield exemplary Carrots, fans of “Chicken + Waffles” will not find them on All Day Baby’s menu, but rather a Buckwheat Waffle intended to be dragged through Butter and topped with housemade Ham plus a ubiquitous Fried Chicken Sandwich made better by Salt & Pepper Mayo plus spicy Pimento Cheese.
Further challenging conformity with French Toast, the Pineapple Jam, Rum Butter and crunchy Cereal dancing harmoniously while Smoked Maple Syrup is best added in small portions, those seeking even better “Bread” will find it offered by way of Mama May, her Banana slice more cake-like and made all the more enthralling by Ricotta, Honey and toasted Buckwheat.
Skipping everyday stacks for a single Hotcake, toothsome and golden beneath Fruit, Nuts and creamy Cheese that makes Syrup largely unnecessary, Buttermilk Biscuits are well-crafted but not revelatory, leaving Shrimp and Grits more room to shine in the spotlight beneath a fried Egg and crispy Leeks that play well off the “Bolognese.”
Not about to skip Dessert, Pie picked over Sundaes or Sticky Buns, All Day Baby’s intention to “illicit glee and satisfaction” is completed by a Marshmallow Sandwich that spins childhood memories on their head thanks to gooey Praline filling while a Banana Cream wedge sweetened by Dulce de Leche threatens Emeril Lagasse for best in the business.
By some estimates 1600+ Donut shops across California are owned by Cambodian families, and at Dōnatsu in Little Tokyo Jenny and Nite Ban put their own unique spin on an entirely Vegan collection of fried Dough with fluffy textures and unique Toppings that fit the eatery’s name and neighborhood.
Opened in January 2019, and since gathering a dedicated following in Little Tokyo, it is immediately on entry that Dōnatsu differentiates itself from the pack, the dark and shiny interior feeling upscale yet secretive despite its placement directly across from DTLA’s popular Japanese Village Plaza.
Offering both classic and creative options, prices from $3.00 to $4.25 including ideas such as the flower-topped “Magic Dragon” and pink-sprinkled “Homer,” it is using the Japanese word for Donut that Dōnatsu makes every batch from scratch on-site, the focus on photogenicity expected though textures also set a high standard.
Entrenched in a competitive market, though perhaps less-so downtown than elsewhere in LA, being different definitely benefits Dōnatsu in the case of their Black Sesame frosted ring, a savory quality tinged with Sugar playing well off light and fluffy Dough while a traditional Apple Fritter also performs beautifully thanks to plenty of Fruit and Glaze that crackles to the tooth.
Passing on Ube, Samoa and Crème Brûlée, a lack of capacity the only real reason, Dōnatsu’s filled Donuts take on two forms, the first exemplified by Sugar-dusted Churros filled with Dulce de Leche Cream and the other a sliced specimen called Mocha Latte with sweetened Chocolate and Cocoa Nibs juxtaposing bitter Coffee.
Opened mid-2019, Tacos 1986 is the brainchild of Victor Delgado and Jorge Alvarez-Tostado, their stand formerly found on Highland Avenue and at Smorgasburg now slinging a concise menu of Meats and Vegetables atop housemade Tortilla at the corner of 6th and Spring Street downtown.
A financial-partnership with the folks behind Joe’s Pizza, Tacos 1986 is considered a “Tijuana-style Taco shop,” but for fans the biggest factor weighing into accolades is an exaggerated amount of Cheese more typical of America, and best evidenced through items such as the Quesadilla-like Mulita.
Raved by LA Times critic Bill Addison, and red-hot across several pop-ups before turning brick and mortar, it is inside a stripped-down storefront that guests will find the no-frills dining room, grilled Meats perfuming the air while men and women tend to tasks including making fresh Tortillas.
Catering to a diverse audience, with prices far less egregious than other “hip” Taquerias throughout Los Angeles, it takes less than ten minutes after ordering for most guests to get their Food, housemade Salsa and Guacamole freshing-up a mélange of Mushrooms for vegans while Pico and fresh Cilantro can also be added, as desired.
Skipping more esoteric toppings, just Al Pastor, Carne Asada and Chicken constituting Tacos 1986’s Meats, $4.50 feels like a bargain for spit-roasted Beef bright with Citrus between inside a two-Tortilla Mulita while 50-cents more yields a fried Shell and even more Cheese in the form of a Vampiro.
Cultured Butter, House Raspberry Jam, Country Sourdough Toast
Goat Cheese, Local Raw Honey, Black Pepper, Walnut Raisin Sourdough Toast
Kouign Amann
Almond Croissant
Snickerdoodle Cookie
Monkey Bread
Founded by Zack Hall out of an apartment on Clark Street in West Hollywood, Clark Street Bread has resided inside Grand Central Market since 2015, skills originally learned at his Wife’s family bakery in the Swedish countryside since refined to make bountiful Breads and elegant Viennoiserie.
Located next to a juicery, and along the lay of Eggslut’s inexplicable queue, it is on approach that guests are greeted by one of two servers, the booth’s small size seeing one gather and bag Pastries while his counterpart takes great care preparing Toasts that are topped to-order.
Now with a second location in Echo Park, miles from the days of delivering to Lindy & Grundy Butcher Shop both literally and figuratively, a visit to Clark Street begins with tough choices, though it is hard to pass on Toast including robustly flavored Sourdough topped with a big dollop of aged-Butter and Raspberry Jam spread thickly edge-to-edge.
Offering $5 “Toast Tuesday,” when LA-staple Avocado Toast can be had for almost half-off, Walnut Raisin Sourdough beneath peppered-Goat Cheese and Honey is worth every penny of $7.50 while $4 Koiugn Amann taste just like what one finds in the bakeries of Bordeaux and Brittany.
A bit disappointed in Hall’s Almond Croissant, the lack of Frangipane a bonus but too much Sugar masking Butter and Nuts, a Snickerdoodle immediately righted the ship while pull-apart Monkey Bread topped in Cinnamon-Sugar ate light and crunchy with a well-develop taste of yeast lingering at the end of each bite.
Having asserted several times that Bardot at Aria is America – if not the World’s – most innovative Brasserie, it was as a group of eight that dinner was enjoyed on Tuesday evening, Chef Josh Smith rolling out some new ideas along with several classics for returning guests and first-timers alike.
Now a five year Strip-veteran, no small feat in a city where constant turnover is standard, it was just prior to 6:00pm that guests were led from hostess podium to the table at room’s center, a familiar waiter with his thick French accent assisting with Beverages including the cleverly named “Le Peche Mode” which sips like a more complex Tiki drink thanks to Cognac, Crème de Peche, Lemon and Ginger.
Deferring Carte Blanche to the kitchen over the past twenty visits, trust that has been earned time and time again, it was with confirmation of no allergies or intolerances that dinner began with Bread, Bardot’s Baguette predictably warm and crunchy with house Butter while a Shellfish Tower and Charcuterie Board showed off sourcing and classic technique, respectively.
Next presented with two of Chef Smith’s recent signatures, his King Crab & Endive Salad winning “best dish of the night” accolades from one guest, it was after dividing two modernized Tarte Flambé that attention turned to all-new Ravioli, a tip of the hat to Nouvelle Cuisine yielding Scallops inside the Pasta with Mushrooms and Herbs decorating delicate Beurre Blanc on the plate.
Thankful that Nevada does not feel so strongly about Foie Gras as New York or California, a hot and cold duo embracing decadence by offering the first with Black Truffle plus Bordelaise while the second sees a Terrine transformed into “Butter” by White Chocolate, Soup next arrived as a not-so-subtle reminder that French Onion and Lobster Bisque are oft overlooked but timeless.
Offered more Pasta with upright Macaroni and seasonal Gnocchi, the latter utilizing Dan Barber’s shrunken Squash smartly to sweeten Goat Cheese, Mushrooms and Garlic, it was by request that “Le Steakburger” from Bardot’s Happy Hour was served next, its grind easily one of Sin City’s most luxurious and the flavor predictably rich but gently reined in by Watercress.
Debuting another concept next, France’s national dish presented tableside with hot Broth cooking thinly-sliced Beef amidst Root Vegetables and Bone Marrow, savories concluded with two can’t-miss plates, Bardot Brasserie’s Wellington unparalleled since the day it debuted and Chef Smith’s Heritage Chicken Roti yet another reminder that even simple plates can be exquisite when superior Ingredients are treated with care and respect.
Transitioned to sweet by cheffed-up “S’mores,” their eventual place on the menu not yet determined, Pineapple Tarte Tatin has given way to seasonal Apples that impress in their range of texture and temperature while Bardot’s photogenic French Cookie now tastes better than ever thanks to Gianduja and candied Oranges.
At this point finding almost every guest waiving their napkin like a white flag, but still willing to enjoy a few bites of Espresso Crème Brulee and Madelines Proust would likely admire, dinner came to an end with tableside flames, Bardot’s Baked Alaska a rare case where Passionfruit is not overwhelming thanks to roasted Pineapples, Banana Rum Cake and charred Meringue.
FIVE STARS: Having repeatedly challenged fellow gourmands to name a better Bistro, Brasserie or Café in North America than Bardot none have yet stood up to the task, and while some may believe that a Restaurant doing big volume cannot possibly compete with a place that seats fifty I’ll simply say I’ve done the legwork and this one does.
RECOMMENDED: King Crab & Endive Caesar, Foie Gras Rossini, Bay Scallop Raviolis, Pop Tarte Flambé, Le Steakburger, Beef Wellington, Heritage Chicken Roti, Gnocchi Parisienne, Macaroni & Mimolette Gratinee, Baked Alaska, Apple Tarte Tatin.
AVOID: Pot-au-feu, Foie Gras Butter and S’mores are as-yet off-menu.
TIP: Offer still stands, if anyone can name a French Bistro or Brasserie outperforming Bardot in North America (and back it up with evidence) I’ll fly there within 6 months to find out for myself.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Of this author’s recommendations on where to eat in Las Vegas none receives more e-mail or blog commentary than Hexx Kitchen + Bar, both negative and positive, yet from the much-maligned “Concession and Franchise Fee” to its occasionally high volume nothing has caused as much personal conflict as the recent Brunch menu change.
Up to now a five-year favorite for holidays and visitors, everything from Christmas to a 21st Birthday celebrated at Hexx or neighboring Alexxa’s Bar, it was as a party of eight including two children that guests sat down around 3:00pm on Sunday, service predictably excellent even as two nearby tables grew tiresome as a result of too many bottomless Mimosas.
Always a spectacle, the view and accessible offerings drawing all ages, races and origins to an expansive floorplan with a variety of seating options, it was once settled with Beverages ordered that Food began to arrive, Hexx’s generous Fresh Fruit Plate always welcome and its bite-size Banana Nut Muffins now larger as part of Pastry Chef Miranda Prince’s Pastry Basket alongside Cinnamon-Sugar Donuts, a Croissant and Alexxa’s Coffee Cake plus housemade Condiments.
Sad to see the Cinnaroll Waffle removed after five good years, a trend towards more healthful Fare clearly part of the new menu’s focus, Brunch marched on with Shellfish, Hexx’s Shrimp Ceviche a pleasant iteration brightened by Red Onion and Citrus while the $34.90 Seafood On Ice is a dubious value considering only the Shrimp were on-par with the quality offered elsewhere on-Strip.
Confused by management’s decision to replace the eponymous Benedict with a Pulled Pork version, though Spinach and speckled Hollandaise do a nice job softening an otherwise weighty dish, health-conscious diners will be pleased to see both Smoked Salmon and Quinoa Salads, the latter unfortunately served with overcooked Steak though the blend of Grains, Vegetables and Beans is quite good.
Having already tasted Chef Carlos Buscaglia’s Biscuits and Gravy as a special in February, the portion and Prime Beef Gravy justifying what at first seems to be excessive pricing, it was here that three “Vegetarian Friendly” items were tasted, both the Omelet and Torta appealing to Omnivores while Vegan Quiche with the texture of Wallpaper Paste lacks seasoning and ranks amongst the worst things tasted in a decade.
Continuing savory, Matt Piekarski’s Crispy Broccolini delicious in its simplicity while the returned Lobster Roll and all-new Prime Steak Sandwich are both well-crafted alongside crispy Fries, Pizza again shows well thanks to Carlos’ influence, the Breakfast version now replaced by Shrimp, Herbs and Sun-Dried Tomatoes.
Not about to skip Chef Prince’s Desserts, her Blueberry Corn Cobbler still one of Sin City’s very best bites, fans of Hexx Chocolate will be happy to know that both the new Bar and Mousse are excellent, albeit completely different from one another, while “Kahlua Milk Chocolate Pancakes” are bland below the top layer and an insulting replacement for the Carrot Cake Pancakes whose flavor is thankfully preserved by Alexxa’s Carrot Cake.
THREE STARS: Recently making a 13-item Brunch + 2-Dessert change one wonders what was “broke” in need of fixing, and although service as well as setting are still amongst the best in Las Vegas the “flaws” others have pointed out in terms of volume or price have now become less simple to dismiss.
RECOMMENDED: Fruit Plate, Shrimp Ceviche, Crispy Broccolini, Biscuits and Gravy, Veggie Omelet, Shrimp Pizza, Blueberry Corn Cobbler, Chocolate Mousse, Carrot Cake from Alexxa’s Bar Menu.
AVOID: Seafood On Ice, Vegan Quiche, Kahlua Milk Chocolate Pancakes.
TIP: Open 6:00am until 12:00am while Alexxa’s Bar greets guests from 9:00am to 6:00am. See website for specific offerings at each during those times, and look for new Brunch items at Hexx soon.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Born out of Taiwan, and since expanded globally by way of franchising, Tiger Sugar purports itself the globe’s “first drink Dessert,” and offering no apologies to Shakes, Slurpies or Hot Chocolate the brand officially opened at 5150 Spring Mountain Road in March 2020.
A global sensation in the era of #instagram, going so far as to imply the only way to enjoy Tiger Sugar is by first snapping a picture, the official title of Tiger Sugar’s signature concoction is Brown Sugar Pearl Milk, only three Ingredients purportedly utilized in each $5.50 cup.
Additionally offering alternatives built on Tea and other flavors, but strongly encouraging first timers to partake in the original, guests will watch each glass’ creation from a small waiting area, customer service pleasant and informative while music plays at low volume overhead.
Originally opened in 2017, and now featuring over one-hundred stores, Tiger Milk’s secret involves two sizes of Tapioca Pearls that are cooked on low heat in brown sugar syrup so they absorb more flavor, a topping of cold Organic Milk and Ice forming the striped appearance that is then shaken “15 times” to create a combination of smoke and sweetness that are each present in careful balance.
FOUR STARS: Less cloying than most Boba or Bubble Tea it seems Tiger Sugar is content with doing one thing and doing it well, the fact that every ingredient is weighed-to-order guaranteeing a consistent product that will need to draw repeat visitors to thrive in an off-Strip location amidst substantial competition.
RECOMMENDED: Brown Sugar Pearl Milk
AVOID: Everything else, apparently, as staff hard-sell the signature.
TIP: Open 11a-11p daily in the plaza containing New Asian BBQ, follow at @tigersugar.usa
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
