Bolinho de Bacalhau – Salt Cod, Mashed Potatoes, Onion
Original with Ceratti Mortadella, Melted Cheese
Banana Empada – Banana, Cinnamon, Dulce de Leche
Located inside Paulistano Mercado Municipal since 1933, and serving locals from 4:30am daily, Bar do Mané offers a wide range of Snacks and Sandwiches, though none is so well known as the stuffed Mortadella with Cheese.
Officially São Paulo’s first grocery market, the size and scope making Mercado Municipal a popular attraction amongst tourists as well as locals, it is towards the middle that guests will find Bar do Mané ever-busy, its countertop flanked by tables on this particular morning seating everything from men in business attire to local police officers and a young Asian couple fluent in English.
Known for large portions and superior Ingredients, Ceratti Meats and locally-baked Bread the base upon which a bevy of Sandwiches are built, those interested in salgados will find no lack of options from Sweet to Savory, R$12 yielding a fist-size Bolinho de Bacalhau stuffed with Salt Cod, Mashed Potatoes and Onion beneath crisp and oilless Casava Flour.
Not waiting long for Bar do Mané’s signature item, staff slicing Mortadella in quick strokes while the Bolinho cooled enough to eat, it was the smaller of two sizes that nonetheless featured enough Sandwich to share, each layer griddled to create a lightly browned edge and the residual heat helping to melt creamy yellow Cheese.
Salty but balanced, and an indisputable bargain at just R$23, it was moments before the Sandwich was finished that Dessert arrived, griddled Bananas and Dulce de Leche carefully folded in Pastry that is the deep-fried and coated with Cinnamon-Sugar to create a taste not dissimilar from that of Bananas Foster.
Corn Bread, Pao de Queijo, Pork and Bean Paste, Caponata, Salted Butter, Roasted Garlic, Tomato Salad, Peppers, Crudite
Crab, Cheese
Manjubinha Fish, Jambu Mayonnaise
“Pato no Tucupi” – Duck, Rice, Jambu, Farinha-Dagua
Ruby Chocolate, Milk Chocolate, White Chocolate, Dark Chocolate, Chocolate Biscuit
Romeu e Julieta – Queijo Minas, Guava, Mango
Following the same ethos as D.O.M., but taking a look at heritage recipes with a format intended to be enjoyed more regularly by guests of all ages, Dalva e Dito continues to show Alex Atala’s commitment to Brazil, its products and traditions.
Itself a Michelin-starred establishment, Executive Chef Elton Junior in charge of the Dalva e Dito’s daily operations and on this day particularly busy cooking for a Rainforest Preservation lecture hosted by Chef Atala in the downstairs event space, guests are welcomed for dinner beginning at 19h00 Monday through Saturday, a weekday Lunches apparently also quite popular along with weekend Brunch.
Situated next to an all-day Market, its offerings similar to those at recently opened Café Dalva e Dito down the street, it is after passing through the brooding bar area that seating is offered, a place near glass windows in full view of the kitchen a real treat as several Chefs work purposefully with a diversity of native ingredients.
Informal but professional, English-fluent staff and menus both thorough in their descriptions, guests are soon greeted with the day’s “Couvert,” a R$25 charge bargain-basement for Bread, Beans, Salad and Spreads all made on-site and refilled for free.
Decorated in Amazonian art and wood furnishings, high ceilings and foliage softening the volume of guests in a room filled by 20h00, it was alongside housemade Juice that dinner continued, the sweetness of Cashew Fruit and Honey not exactly “pairing” well to much but nonetheless an excellent palate cleanser between starters of local Crab au Gratin and whole-fried Manjubinha Fish with tongue-tingling Mayonnaise for dipping.
Built on “Grandma’s Recipes,” Chef Atala’s favorite reportedly Duck in Manioc Root Juice, anyone craving more of D.O.M.’s penultimate savory will do well to check out Dalva e Dito’s more rustic version, the fork-tender flesh rich but not gamey while a generous helping of Rice and Flour to thicken the Broth makes the dish easily sharable for diners with small appetites.
Finishing with Dessert, several offered from a Cart and others prepared in the kitchen, it was passing on items previously tasted at the Café that Cake and Pudding took center stage, the former offering four distinct layers of Chocolate atop a crispy Crust while Romeu e Julieta played sweet off savory bite-after-bite with no two quite the same.
Per marketing, “Coffee Lab is a quality roasting, tasting and brewing lab focused on micro batches, eco-social responsibility and foot-to-package traceability,” and since 2009 it has also been where Isabela Raposeiras has sought to correct the misconception that Brazilian Coffee is more about quantity than quality.
A hang out for cool kids, but also families and students, Rua Fradique Coutinho 1340 extending from a covered pathway with chairs across two buildings including the school and roastery, it is from Baristas clad in overhauls that guests receive a menu via filing system, these amongst other clever touches adding to an experience bolstered by unparalleled customer service.
Surprisingly affordable compared to even the likes of Starbucks, the presence of dueling Diedrich roasters and world-class home brewing equipment telling of Raposeiras’ seriousness, it is in a ritualistic manner that each beverage is prepared and presented, the V60 of “Valdeir Tomazini” from Espírito Santo offering a hint of acidity on the tongue that quickly dissipates with the lingering flavor that of Honey.
Educational without being “preachy,” the most English-fluent staff witnessed anywhere in São Paulo going above and beyond to explain Coffee Lab’s ethos and the effort behind their brand, it was along with Coffee that two Cakes were enjoyed, the gluten-free and vegan-friendly Corn Round enjoyable but paling in comparison to creamy R$10 Lime Cake while the Coffee Soft Serve ordered while perusing complimentary WiFi was peerless in terms of both texture and depth of flavor.
Unarguably Brazil’s most highly regarded Restaurant, though falling on various “lists” in recent years, D.O.M. sees Chef Alex Atala more focused than ever on his country’s history and what the future may look like during a time of turmoil for the Amazon.
Currently celebrating twenty years serving São Paulo, 2-Star recognition by Michelin maintained ever since the guide began rating Brazil, it is during lunch and dinner that guests are welcomed at D.O.M. during the workweek, a bargain experience built on traditional plates offered for businessmen in addition to Chef Atala’s seasonal Optmus and Maximus Tasting Menus.
Selecting the Maximus, but finding it a little strange that Juice pairings are only offered with the Vegetarian version, it was from the bar that D.O.M.’s eponymous Cocktail was requested, the substantial dryness broken up by Citrus and a touch of Olive Oil that floated around an orb of Ice.
Created at a time when Brazilian gastronomy was unknown to outsiders, long before Acai was the “Super Food” du jour, D.O.M. walks a tightrope between “fine dining” and culinary story-telling, the current “pre-discovery” idea focusing on Brazil’s roots in an Ingredient-focused manner that begins with a raw Ant used as seasoning in the Amazon alongside what looks like Bug in Amber, but is actually a liquid-centered Cachaca Candy.
Quiet on a Monday, Chef Atala visibly spending a lot of time teaching in the open kitchen, course two arrived as two plates, the first a plump Langoustine atop crisp Tapioca with shaved Coconut and the second a Tartare atop Mousse with broth perfumed Tamarind plus additional Jungle Herbs.
Next offering a Salad of local Mushrooms, some cooked crisp and others marinated or raw, it was after wiping up the last bits of Yolk with sliced Asparagus that Scallops arrived, Atala’s fondness for Caju showing as Jam, Fruit and Nuts were all used to add sweetness plus textural diversity to the Bivalve and its mirror of Bone Marrow.
Channeling Afro-Brazilian history next with thinly sliced Heart of Palm around Shrimp and Peanut Stew, the Coconut Milk added tableside and herbed Taro each complimentary without overpowering, course six arrived in a sizable stockpot, the Broth from which was added to a bowl of seared Pirarucu and tiny bits of Candy and Farofa that helped tame slices of Jalapeno.
Replacing the tablecloth with a thatched mat next, the final three savories served as such, it was in praise of Manioc that Atala presented its multiple utilizations, the Beiju and Mille Feuille both stand-outs with instructions to enjoy the spoon last leaving diners mouths full of buttery Bottarga.
Continuing traditional with Duck Breast in Tucupi Sauce, a larger version ordered at Dalva e Dito that night equally delicious, savories concluded with a thick slice of Buffalo “Hump” bathed in sweet Toffee, the same Sauce used as gravy for D.O.M.’s signature “Cheese Course” of Potatoes Aligot made with Minas and Gruyere.
At this point thoroughly impressed by Chef Atala’s ability to present traditional flavors in a refined manner without losing a sense of purpose, a rarity in Restaurants with an “agenda,” Dessert did nothing to unravel the narrative by beginning with Honey Ice Cream in a fermented acidic Bath and following it with Tapioca Skin Mochi beneath Mate Ice Cream and Coffee service with housemade Condiments.
Brigadeiro Artesanais – Noir, Leite Ninho, Tradicional Crocante, Tradicional, Cupuacu, Chocolate Branco, Fava de Baunilha com Cookies, Chocolate Branco com Coco Fresco, Doce de Leite com Nozes
Although Brigadeiro was created by Heloisa Nabuco de Oliveira in support of Brigadier Eduardo Gomes 1946 presidential campaign, the confection has remained popular throughout Brazil ever since, its typical constituents of Condensed Milk, Cocoa Powder, Butter and Chocolate Sprinkles since reinterpreted several times and the “best” hotly debated, though since 2007 Maria Brigadeiro has been in the conversation.
Located inside JK Iguatemi shopping, with hours subject to those of the upscale mall, it is on the bottom floor that Maria Brigadeiro can be found, the staff of two exceedingly pleasant though not English-fluent and very meticulous in terms of packaging, bagging and dispensing Chocolates treated as though they are precious jewels.
Additionally sold online, and offering everything from Hot Chocolate Mix to Tablets and Bars, each signature confection is handmade on-site daily, a smaller size and higher price than other Brigadeiro justified by superior ingredients including Amazonian Vanilla, housemade Dulce De Leche and fresh Cupuacu.
Beginning first with a miniature version of Maria Brigadeiro’s Torta, the triple-Chocolate concoction inhabiting a buttery Shell just R$ 23 with intense Dark Chocolate Ganache the prominent flavor, it was for R$ 43 that nine additional Brigadeiro were purchased, the traditional softer and creamier than others tasted from São Paulo to Rio while other highlights included White Chocolate with Fresh Coconut and Dulce de Leche with Nuts that tasted a lot like Snickers, but more delicate.
Natural Fermentation Sourdough, House Dulce de Leche
Banana Cake
Chocolate Almond Cookie
With locations in Itaim, Jardins and Guarulhos Airport Terminal 2 Mr. Baker comes highly recommended by locals and tourists, the fact that almost every independent Bakery in Brazil can lay claim to being all-natural taken another step as everything on-site is Organic, including Coffee sourced by Silvia Magalhães.
A recipient of numerous awards ever since opening, the space at Rua Pedroso Alvarenga 655 coming first and still bustling every day beginning at 07h00, it is immediately upon entering the corner door that guests are greeted by sights and smells, the dining room in back at first hidden by Bar and racks full of Pastries.
Offering table service as well as grab n’ go options, the latter favored by many on Monday, it was seated at the communal high-top that choices were made, a young man with good English skills warning that five items were “too much” but eventually accepting reassurance that anything not finished would be taken to go.
Aware of Mr. Baker’s Beans, a local award winner with the linger of buttered Toast perfect for breakfast, it was alongside a Double Espresso that dining began with an Almond Croissant, the use of infused Cream rather than ground Nuts not ideal but better than Frangipane while a follow-up of Corn Cake was simple and delicious with high moisture that saw it eat almost like Pudding.
Said to use one of the oldest know starters in Brazil for their Sourdough, an items sold by the Loaf or sliced with an array of Spreads, one could not help but smile at the decadence of thickly slathered Caramel, while both Banana Cake and a Chocolate Cookie with Nuts also fared well at an all-in price of just 42 Real (around $10USD.)
Established in 1958, and claiming to be the first home of Margherita Pizza in São Paulo, Pizzaria Speranza offers a wide-ranging menu of Italian specialties within two Restaurants, the original in Bixiga and a more sophisticated dining room designed by architect Roberto Migotto in Moema.
Family owned and operated, the location at Rua Treze de Maio 1004 spread across two brightly wallpapered rooms accessed via brick-lined pathway, it is shortly after seating that guests are greeted by waiters that only speak Portuguese, the menu in English a big help though best of luck to anyone attempting to access their “complimentary” WiFi.
Showing signs of wear, pulls in the tablecloth and stained menus unexpected from a house with such history, it was after some debate that a direct competition with Bráz was decided upon, the opener of Sausage Bread not quite as herbal but certainly quite good with a blend of three Cheeses adding both taste and textural complexity.
Unrushed in terms of service, and making no efforts to assist a foreigner at all, it was nearly forty-five minutes later that a half-and-half Pizza was presented, both slices of Boar Sausage and Zucchini enjoyable amidst imported Sauce and Mozz atop a crust that is puffy and elastic but lacking in terms of cornicione.
Fosca Pizza – Mozzarella Cheese, Smoked Ham, Catupiry Cheese
Baked Vanilla Ice Cream – Berries, Rum-soaked Biscuit, Italian Meringue
With ten locations across Brazil, the majority in São Paulo, Bráz Pizzaria has been feeding guests for 22 years, a combination of research, Ingredients and effort landing the Restaurant on several lists including a “ten best Pizza places in the world” nod back in 2017.
Exacting in its approach, Tomatoes and Cheese from Italy meeting housemade Sausage and Brazilian influences atop discs of Dough that are fermented cold and slow, it is in the Higienopolis neighborhood that Bráz’s “flagship” is located, an opening hour of 18h00 finding guests waiting in the rain for an opportunity to sit down for dinner.
Rumored to be the country in which more Pizza per capita is consumed than any other, an astonishing claim considering São Paulo’s population of 22-Million in the larger Metropolitan area, it was shortly after seating that water was offered, service loosely fluent in English doing a fine job with suggestions though a translated menu was also very helpful.
Seated near the ovens, meticulous Pizzaiolos already hard at work, it was while watching production that a slice of Bráz’s famous Sausage Bread was presented, a lightly sour note perfuming Wheat moistened by Meat bright with Herbs plus briny Olives on the side.
Offering small and large Pies, the latter approximately $22USD but able to be made with up to three different combinations of Toppings, it was self-selecting two and deferring the third to staff that Barra Speciale, Levissima and Fosca were served, the Crust unique in its ability to be both moist and crunchy whether beneath traditional Ingredients like Olives and Tomatoes or smoky Ham and a thick layer of locally produced Catupiry.
A menu with no easy decisions, though every table had at least one Pizza stand at its center, Dessert proved equally tempting from Tiramisu to Pudding, but having already tasted the former at Elettrica a choice of Vanilla over Chocolate was all that stood between spoon and Ice Cream baked under the protection of Meringue and boozy Biscuits.
Basket of Breads – Corn Baguette from Padoca do Mani, Tapioca Starch Chips, Cheese Curd with Sweet Smoked Paprika, Goat Cheese with Pink Peppercorns, Butter
Foie Gras Bonbon – Guava Paste, Port Wine, Pine Nut
Arracacha and Arrowroot Gnocchi – “Dashi” of Tucupi
Pupunha Palm Taglierini – Cream of Tulha Cheese, Pequi Fruit Nut
Da Lama ao Caos (From Mud to Chaos) – Sweet and Smoked Eggplant, Cheese Curd, Palestinian Lime Zest, Orange Blossom Gelatin, Caramelized Pistachio, Kneff Dough, Black Sesame Seed Ice Cream
Although Helena Rizzo studied architecture in college her career took an unexpected turn in 1997, a cook position yielding internships with names such as Troisgros and the Roca brothers that finally led to her opening Maní in 2006.
Now a Michelin 1* recipient, Chef Rizzo having gone on to open a casual Restaurant inside a bookstore at Iguatemi Shopping plus two Bakeries, it is at Rua Joaquim Antunes 210 that the flagship remains, a 13h00 arrival on Sunday finding the entry hall filled as diners attempted to escape pouring rain outside.
Built rustic, a bustling kitchen visible through slotted windows up front and tree-lined courtyard behind, it was in the latter’s corner that a table for one was offered, the complete lack of spoken English surprising for such a highly acclaimed space and service clearly focused on regulars including a showy middle-aged couple who sat at room’s center just short of fondling one another in public.
Trying not to hold patrons or language barriers against Chef Rizzo, though the fact that waiters could not describe her Tasting Menu negated any attempt to order it, lunch at Maní began with a bag of Bread for which guests are charged 24 Real, the Corn Baguette from Padoca do Mani easily trumping their Brioche tasted earlier while Tapioca Starch Chips crackled like Chicharrón with added flavor from two types of cheesy Spread.
Opting for a blend of Green Grapes and Coconut Water to compliment Lunch, the inclusion of a substantial amount of Mint not announced and unappreciated, it was sticking with Water that savories started with Maní’s Foie Gras Bonbons, the cost a bit steep for what amounts to six half-bites of Liver mostly overwhelmed by Port Wine Gel and Guava Paste.
Best thought of as modernist-Brazilian Cuisine, Rizzo’s accolades as both Latin America and the World’s Best Female Chef in 2014 by San Pellegrino based on a collection of plates that remain largely unchanged today, it was not long after Bonbons were gone that seven tiny “Gnocchi” arrived, the use of two local Roots generating yielding pillows bathed in Manioc Juice while a follow-up “Pasta” featured shaved Palm Hearts as Noodles amidst creamy Tulha Cheese and the shaved center of Caryocar brasiliense.
Fully packed with locals by 13h30, the Restaurant thus humid with noise level reaching a dull roar, it was thankfully not long before Dessert arrived, “A Roça” using Corn less successfully than Tanit to create a textural landscape while “From Mud to Chaos” touched on a wide range of tastes and textures with balanced sweetness and a slightly savory finish.
Born from the brains behind Brazil’s best known Pizza, Bráz Elettrica has brought Brooklyn’s neo-Neapolitan style to São Paulo with a menu created by former Roberta’s “Pizza Guy” Anthony Falco.
Originally opened in 2017, additional locations sporting Italian ovens capable of maintaining consistent internal temperatures of 480 degrees Celsius (896 Fahrenheit) soon to follow, it is along Rua dos Pinheiros that guests can find Pies built on slowly fermented Dough with toppings ranging from Italian Tomatoes and Buffalo Mozzarella to local Linguica.
Built to be hip, a torrential downpour on Sunday afternoon finding two stories of concrete and graffiti largely empty, it was after perusing the options that Pizza, Dessert and Water were chosen, the entire order tallying under $10USD and ready in less than five minutes.
Using all natural Ingredients and cold fermentation, the latter yielding Crust that crackles to the tooth but offers a bit of stretch, it is on Bráz’s eponymous Pie that diners will find Sauce, Mozz, Garlic and Zucchini, a flavor not unlike Margherita coming through early but then dissipating with a hint of smoke.
Easily finishing a whole Pie, and holding off on another to save room for lunch after, it was into a small cup of Pudding that spoon was plunged next, the lack of Booze made up for by bitter Espresso that finds its foil in Cream and Cocoa as Ladyfingers are virtually nonexistent.
Serving upscale Jardim Paulista since 2013, Santo Pão (Portuguese for Holy Bread) takes a French approach to baking and Café-style dining without abandoning Brazilian ingredients and ideas.
A welcoming and open space at Rua Padre João Manuel 968, capacity for around forty diners divided between indoor and outdoor seating including comfy chairs, it is immediately on entry that guests will notice cases filled with Cakes and Pastries, the menu spelling out choices from Santo Pão’s kitchen adding to an already tough decision with everything from Soups and Sandwiches to housemade Pasta.
Open from 08h00 until 22h00 Monday through Saturday, doors closing an hour earlier Sunday, it was after minutes of indecision that Cold Brew was selected to pair with savories, the former rare in Brazil but in this case excellent while both Brazilian Cheese Bread and crispy Tapioca folded around creamy Eggs and Herbs were also well made at a fair price.
Slowly enjoying the Eggs while browsing complimentary WiFi, and never rushed by English-fluent staff despite a crowd, it was after enjoying a small Cookie provided with the Coffee that sweets were ordered, the “Croissant with Hazelnut Cream” in reality a masterpiece of lamination ladled with warm Nutella while Santo Pão’s signature Banana Cake lived up to its billing with soft layers divided by housemade Dulce de Leche.
Although Helena Rizzo studied architecture in college her career took an unexpected turn in 1997, a cook position yielding internships with names such as Troisgros and the Roca brothers that finally led to her opening Mani in 2006.
Since building her name and empire slowly, a total of four Restaurants including two Bakeries now flying Chef Rizzo’s flag, it is from Padoca do Mani that all Breads for the Michelin-starred flagship have been baked since 2015, the space itself also drawing a crowd from 08h00 daily.
Located in Jardim Paulistano, Rua Joaquim Antunes 138 just a few doors from Mani itself, guests will find the space largely unlabeled and unassuming, covered outdoor seats welcoming perhaps two-dozen diners while the interior features standing space along with a friendly staff busy preparing Sandwiches, Salads, Coffee and an abundance of Baked Goods.
Locally focused and largely organic, the volume of business assuring freshness but also generating lengthy waits for anything served above room temperature, it was perhaps twenty minutes after seating that a tray featuring three items was served, an Affogato proving there is no such thing as “too early” for Ice Cream or Nutella while Bread sold for 13 Real was unfortunately quite dry for something labeled Brioche until it was slathered with Honey.
Partially impressed by the daily Empada, this one featuring melted Cheese plus Pumpkin and Sweet Corn inside buttery Pastry that was unfortunately a bit flaccid, sweets fortunately saw Padoca do Mani shine brightly, first a square of Cornbread that eats sweet and wet like Tres Leches, then the Carrot Cake that one-ups America by replacing traditional Cream Cheese Frosting with Dulce de Leche.
Comissão de Frente – Pastries filled with Shrimp, Marinade of Brazilian Zucchini, Special Cheese with Sugar Cane Honey, Jerked Beef with Butter, Manioc Flour
Bolinho de Pirarucu e Conserva do Zé Lima – Pirarucu Balls, Homemade Lime Preserves
Bobozinho de Camarão – Shrimp in Manioc Cream, Coconut Milk, Manioc Flour, Tapioca
Cocada de Tabuleiro com Sorvete de Tapiocae Calda de Tamarindo – Flat Coconut Cake, Tapioca Ice Cream, Tamarind Sauce
Pavê de Chocolate com Café e Cristais de Pimenta-de-cheiro – Chocolate with Coffee Mousse, Crunch Biscuit, Crystallized Chili Pepper
Named for a city in Spain where the treaty defining areas of dominion of overseas territories between Portugal and Spain was signed, Tordesillas has been serving São Paulo for over 28 years, and focusing on everything from daily favorites to celebration plates the Restaurante offers visitors a glimpse into Brazil’s culinary traditions.
Located at Alameda Tiête 489 inside what appears to be a former residence, Chef Mara Salles bringing an artisan approach to plates seasonal yet storied, it is immediately upon seating that diners will notice small bowls of Zucchini Chips alongside small bottles, the latter containing housemade fermented Peppers that are anything but mild.
More diverse than many of Brazil’s fine dining menus, several items offered in half-portions allowing even solo diners an opportunity to sample broadly, it was after questions were answered by English-fluent staff that an order was placed, assertions that four plates were “too much” quickly disproven and even allowing capacity for a pair of Desserts.
Built on the investigation of Brazilian techniques and Ingredients, a belief “that tradition is the base for innovation” fueling Chef Salles’ attempt to push boundaries while still honoring the past, it is with a quartet of Appetizers that most guests will choose to begin, everything basic but enjoyable and highlighted by tender cubes of Beef with Butter and Onions that can be augmented for texture by a side of Manioc Flour.
Serving several styles of Cachaca from the Bar, a housemade version the base of “Forro du Caju Amigo” which is both creamy and intensely sweet, it was with the Restaurant less than 1/8 full that course two came quickly, the northern Soup known as Tacacá still boiling hot and vibrant with Tucupi and Jambu fortified by River Shrimp, the extract of Manioc Root strongly acidic to the point where even a small bowl left the mouth tingling as if exposed to Novocain.
Treated next of fried Pirarucu, an enormous River Fish whose delicate flavors paired nicely to citrusy Pickles, it was on the server’s recommendation that “Bobozinho de Camarão” rounded out savories, a texture not dissimilar to Panang Curry here less heated with a multitude of flavors built around Shellfish.
Slow to receive Dessert, though resting amidst Tordesillas’ homey décor is anything but unpleasant, it was after perhaps twenty minutes that two plates arrived simultaneously, the Chocolate Cake with Coffee, spice and what seemed to be Apple Compote decidedly unique while warm Coconut Cake with thick Ice Cream and Tamarind Sauce defined “ugly delicious.”
Only open since June 30th, but already drawing a crowd from 08h00 until closing daily, Café Dalva e Dita sees Chef Alex Atala expand on ideas from his Michelin-starred Restaurant of the same name, but with a focus on Street Food in addition to several grab ‘n go options.
Part market and part Coffee house, the contiguous indoor-outdoor space offering complimentary WiFi and plenty of room to spread out amongst native surroundings, it is once seated that a three-page menu printed in Portuguese is presented, Salads and Sandwiches constituting approximately half the options alongside Pies, Desserts and Entrees.
Utilizing local ingredients and traditional recipes, with prices not so different from other similar spots in the Jardins neighborhood, guests can expect friendly service from entry to exit, an English-fluent female assisting with explanations that eventually led to six items plus two Beverages beginning with Tres Coffee served as Cold Brew.
Previously the address of a place called Bácaro, Chef Atala bringing his preeminent voice in Brazilian cuisine to Rua Oscar Freire 45 in partnership with former owners, it was not long after ordering that three plates arrived simultaneously, first bites of “Bolvo” finding it largely like a Scotch Egg with seasoned Ground Beef while the Torta de Palmito doubled down on texture with softened Hearts of Palm and gooey melted Cheese.
For now a “pop-up,” an entirely new concept apparently set to replace the Café in 365-days, those seeking something truly delicious should not pass on Atala’s Coxinha de Pato, Duck cooked with Tucupi rich but vibrant beneath a Shell rolled in Farofa.
Passing on housemade Juices, and instead transitioning the palate sweet by way of Espresso and Ice shaken vigorously with Citrus, Dessert arrives by way of items also offered on Dalva e Dito Restaurant’s cart, Quindim featuring a slick Custard of Eggs and Coconut while “Ambrosia” perfumes soured Milk with Vanilla and Cinnamon, though the most “unique” bite to those visiting from outside Brazil is likely to be “Doce de Caju,” or Cashew Fruit poached in Brown Sugar Syrup.
Spice Charum – Cachaca, Rum, Mix Citrico e Xarope de Especiarias (Cachaca, Rum, Citrus Mix, Spice Syrup)
Pato com Geleia de Pimenta Vermelho Croquetas (Duck Croquetas, Red Pepper Jelly)
Crocantes de Arroz Negro – Camaroes Empanados, Guacamole e Molho Picante (Breaded Shrimps, Guacamole, Hot Sauce)
Bunuelos de Bacalao – ao estilo espanhol, com allioli de gengibre (Bacalao Bunuelos, Ginger Aioli)
Batatas Bravas – Molho de tomate caseiro, ragú de chorizo espanhol e maionese picante (Potatoes Bravas, Tomato Sauce, Spanish Chorizo Ragout, Spicy Mayonnaise)
Mini Cones Crocantes – Tartar de atum e allioli de gengibre (Crunchy Mini Cones – Tuna Tartare, Ginger Aioli)
Gianduja – Choux de Crème de Avela, Dark Brownie, Ganache de Chocolate 60%, Sorvete de Avela e Telhas de Cacao (Hazelnut Choux, Dark Brownie, 60% Chocolate Ganache, Hazelnut Ice Cream, Cocoa Tiles)
Milho – Crumble de Milho Salgado, Espuma de Milho Doce, Sorvete de Baunilha, Terra de Cacao (Salted Corn Crumble, Sweet Corn Foam, Vanilla Ice Cream, Cocoa Dirt)
Torrija de Santa Tereza – amendoim, sorvete de café e redução de Pedro Ximenez (French Toast, Peanut, Coffee Ice Cream, Pedro Ximenez Reduction)
Imagined by the husband/wife team of Óscar and Bia Bosch, TANIT brings Spanish sensibilities to São Paulo from a man whose resume includes the likes of Hof van Cleve, El Celler de Can Roca and El Bulli.
Opened in May of 2016 and earning a Michelin Star since Brazil’s inaugural guide, an elegant space bathed in natural light welcoming diners for lunch and dinner Tuesday through Sunday, it is once past the streetside patio and wood-paneled entrance that diners are seated, servers fluent in English happily assisting with the Portuguese menu.
Part “tapas,” but also offering full-size plates amenable to any size party, many guests will be found sipping one of several unique Cocktails, Cachaca expectedly featured alongside other Spirits in concoctions such as “Spice Charum” with piquant Powder suspended above smooth Rum and Citrus.
Not exactly fusion, but carefully adapting Catalonian tastes to the Brazilian palate, it was not long after opening that all seats were filed, a procession of plates beginning with fried Confit Duck and followed by Squid Ink Rice Crackers topped in Breaded Shrimp, Avocado and Hot Sauce.
Cooking inside a surprisingly small kitchen, Chef Bosch on the line with his team throughout a ninety minute stay, it was in succession that plates three and four arrived, TANIT’s Salt Cod dazzling when dipped in gingered Sauce while fried Potato rounds saw traditional Patatas Bravas upgraded by Chorizo Ragu.
Gifted two Tuna Cones prior to Dessert, the same Ginger Aioli offered alongside Bosch’s Bunuelos here lending the Tartare an Asian accent, it was on the server’s recommendation that sweets started with Chocolate, a plate titled “Gianduja” offering a deconstructed idea of Italy’s famous Spread with the Hazelnut Pastry and thick Ganache particularly noteworthy.
Finishing strong, Óscar’s time with Jordi Roca and Albert Adria clearly evidenced by Desserts that succeed despite limited sweetness thanks to balanced textures, flavors and temperature, it would be a mistake to pass on either “Milho” or “Torrija,” the former a feather-light taste of Summer until spoon meets Ice Cream while the fried French Toast is heavier but equally impressive as concentrated Sherry plays off Peanuts and Coffee.
Bavaroise de Tres Chocolates Amargo, Branco, Leite (Triple Chocolate Bavaroise Bitter, White, Milk)
Romeu e Julieta Cremosa de Goiabada e Cobertura com Queijo Catipury (Creamy Guava with Catipury Cheese Frosting)
Torta de Maca da Bretanha (Apple Almond Pie)
Torta de Pera, Crème de Cardamomo e Crumble de Noz-Pecan (Pear Pie, Cardamom Creme and Pecan Crumble)
Now with two locations, her newest the Confeitaria & Deli on Rua Dr. Renato Paes de Barros, Pastry Chef Marilia Zylbersztajn is considered by many to be one of Brazil’s best bakers, and although the upscale space offers everything from Salads to Waffles there is no doubt a diverse collection of Pies warrants top billing.
Part of Itaim Bibi since early 2018, a lengthy interior and garden patio served from the kitchen located upstairs, it is beginning at 09h00 Saturday that guests begin to arrive and make their selections, many taking orders to go while others opt to relax with a cup of good Coffee and complimentary Wi-Fi.
Featuring friendly service despite limited fluency in English, though rudimentary Spanish and a good deal of knowledge about Pastry goes a long way in deciphering Zylbersztajn’s menu, it was at a small table in back that four slices arrived at 14 Real ($3.29) each, the Triple Chocolate Bavaroise stunning in the lightness of each layer while Brazil’s “Romeu e Julieta” combination of Guava and Cheese was exemplified by a creamy Guava Base and tangy Catipury Cheese Frosting.
Never too sweet, something that immediately becomes apparent in many of Brazil’s Desserts, it was with Fruit Pies that the tasting continued, a combination of Apples and Almonds nearly sour save for a sprinkling of Confectioner’s Sugar and the Pear Tort with Pecan Streusel brightened by Cardamom to the point that it could have just as well been featured on a menu in Scandinavia.
Considering Portugal’s enduring influence of Brazil there is no surprise that culinary crossover still exists today, and at B.LEM Portuguese Bakery many traditional Pastries can be found served alongside local favorites such as Pao de Queijo plus Sandwiches and even Pasta.
Boasting three locations in São Paulo, that on Rua Afonso Braz proving most convenient with an 08h00 daily opening, it was shortly thereafter that the space was found long, narrow and friendly, staff not speaking a bit of English but plenty helpful in procuring items from the case while Google Translate via complimentary Wi-Fi provided assistance.
Offering no shortage of options, the majority 4-10 Real ($1.00-$2.50) and made daily with fresh Ingredients including free-range Eggs, it was after a quick re-heat that two Salt Cod Pastries started things off, the baked Empada light and enriched with Butter while a fried Bolinho also fared well with all the expected flavor and very little oiliness.
Next looking at B.LEM’s interpretation of two Brazilian staples, the Cheese Bread a bit bland compared to others in São Paulo while Pao de Leite was springy and great with Jam, it is under the title “Pastel B. Lem” that Pastel de Nata are sold, the Egg Custard still warm and semi-liquid whether in its traditional or indistinguishable artificially sweetened form.
Impressed with the finely-layered Shell, and finding similar filled with pureed White Beans and Almonds under the title “Pastel de Torres,” it was after an unremarkable Cinnamon Roll that two additional Portuguese traditions were explored, the “Bola de Berlim” essentially a Donut filled with housemade Dulce de Leche Custard while Salame de Chocolate offered Cocoa wrapped around Biscotti and a hint of Port.
Sorvette de Rapadura – Creamy Handmade Ice Cream, Cane Syrup, Brown Sugar, Molasses
Cartola de Engenho – Pernambuco Banana, Cheese, Cinnamon Farofa
Café Tapioca – Coffee, Handmade Dulce de Leche, Chocolate
Located north of central São Paulo, conveniently en route from Guarulhos–Governador André Franco Montoro International Airport to Bela Vista, Mocotó features the cooking of Chef Rodrigo Oliveira, and despite casual environs the Restaurant has made believers of locals as well as tourists to the point of landing on several “Best of” lists including S. Pellegrino’s Top 50 in Latin America.
Originally opened in 1974 by Chef Oliveira’s father, but under the direction of Rodrigo and his wife since 2002, it is along Avenida Nossa Senhora do Loreto that guests will find the brightly-lit space frequently at capacity, a no reservations policy doing nothing to harm business, though service staff with no English skills, no WiFi and a particularly rude hostess/cashier make visiting without Portuguese fluency less than ideal.
Unquestionably a neighborhood favorite, the focus on northeastern Brazilian Cuisine yielding a comprehensive menu of plates large and small, many guests will opt to begin with housemade Cachaça or Cocktails, though several Brazilian Beers are also offered and seem popular alongside starters such as fried Coalho Cheese with thick Molasses on the side or Pork Rinds featuring a lot of flesh beneath Skin that shatters like glass.
Ideal for sharing, but constructing a menu such that solo diners can order smaller portions of many plates, it is folded inside malleable Tapioca that Beef cooked in Cream matches nicely to housemade Chili, ground Meat faring equally well inside of lightly fried Pastry offered alongside finely chopped Pickles.
Continuing with small crocks of Mocoto’s eponymous Soup plus Beans with Meat and Rice, the former brightened by Vinegar and Herbs that soften Cow’s Foot and Cassava, complimentary sides of Farofa and pureed Manioc also perform well with the latter even more impressive as part of “Carne Seca Escondidinhos” that eats somewhere between Stew and Soufflé beneath its golden dome of Cheese.
Told not to pass on Tapioca Dice, each crispy Nugget yielding a springy center, there was also no avoiding Dessert that began with Espresso topped by housemade Cachaca Cream and continued with Rapadura Ice Cream served as a DIY Sundae alongside a bottle of Molasses.
Not done yet, another round of Tapioca cooked in Espresso and stuffed with Dulce de Leche highlighting the versatility of an ingredient uncommonly used outside of Pudding back in the United States, it was finally “Cartola de Engenho” that completed the evening, each bite a complex balance of sweet and savory with Cinnamon Crumble adding texture and perfuming the palate.
Even before Yardbird opened in Las Vegas the Restaurant from Miami had been known for an artisanal approach to Southern cooking, and with “fast-casual” all the rage it only seemed natural that parent company 50 Eggs enter the market with their Spring Chicken concept.
Originally announced in 2015, and now featuring two locations including Coral Gables and Miami International Airport, it was just past 7:00am that the latter was found quiet, a sleepy-eyed woman at the counter informing guests that those wishing to dine-in must order from wait staff to whom English was undoubtedly a second language.
Taking a seat with decisions made quickly, MIA’s obscure rules for International layovers requiring extra time as most must exit and re-enter through security, it was perhaps ten minutes after Water was filled that a single tray arrived, visual inspection of “Mama’s Biscuit” appearing nothing like Yardbird’s and its dried out texture confirming such, an extra $1 for Apple Butter thankfully not wasted as it would have pushed costs to double that of what is charged at the already-pricey Casino and Miami Beach Restaurants.
Moving next to a Chicken & Waffle Sandwich, the $9.99 tab fair for the portion but not for flaccid Waffles or anything-but-natural Syrup, it was after deconstructing to focus on brined-and-fried Bird plus Bacon that Dessert-to-go was requested, the $30 cost including auto-grat finally finding some justification in Carrot Cake with tangy Cream Cheese Frosting and extra-moist Chocolate Sponge made even richer by thick Ganache.
Mama’s Margarita – Cimarron Blanco, Orange Cordial, Lime, Salt Rim / Palomita – Casamigos Mezcal, Hibiscus Syrup, Grapefruit, Lime, Watermelon-Hibiscus Agua Fresca Cerveza, Hibiscus Salt Rim
Valley Mule – Fortaleza Blanco, Ginger Syrup, Lime, Soda, Mint
“Curated by mezcalera Bricia Lopez, Mama Rabbit is an ode to mezcals and tequilas from across Mexico. Mama Rabbit takes its name from Mayahuel, the goddess of agave and fertility. Mayahuel was the mother of 400 rabbits that she nourished with mezcal and tequila, and thus Mama Rabbit was born. The brightly decorated 4,400 square foot space features a large double-sided bar, multiple rooms, live entertainment, roaming margarita carts and Las Vegas’ largest agave-based spirits selection hand-selected by Lopez, coined the “Oaxacan Princess” by the late Jonathan Gold of The Los Angeles Times. Serving a menu of tequilas, mezcals, signature craft cocktails and light bites, Mama Rabbit invites you to wander into the world of Oaxaca.”
Officially opening tomorrow, Mama Rabbit bills itself as an ode to Mezcals and tequilas from across Mexico, and thanks to options available at in wide range of prices plus a killer sound system the large space seems poised for success based on a brief look Saturday.
Certainly not an expert on the topic, all three drinks were very well balanced and the sort of thing that could easily gt lightweights into trouble.
N/A: Impossible to fairly evaluate from a “Friends & Family” event, Mama Rabbit looks and sounds great with a location well suited for guests taking in an event at Park MGM Theater or T-Mobile Arena.
RECOMMENDED: Palomita, Valley Mule.
AVOID: N/A.
TIP: 5:00PM till Midight Sunday through Tuesday, and until 3:00am Wednesday through Saturday.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
