Known best for their famous Syrups, Dave’s Coffee opened its Providence storefront on 2014, a location on Main Street offering easy access to nearby Universities up until COVID-19 shuttered the inside and rendered the space temporarily take-out only.
A locally born company, all our Beans roasted, packed and bagged in Narragansett Rhode Island, it was Sunday morning that Dave’s was found with both booth and shelve on the sidewalk, a young man taking touchless orders including several housemade Pastries, Toasts and Drinks.
Competing with nearby entities including Plant City, a situation necessitating creativity in addition to quality, nearby benches along the river played host to a six item tasting, Dave’s Corn Muffin “Top” in reality a thick and toothsome disk with restrained sweetness while the Gluten Free Apple Cider Donut was baked as opposed to fried and surprisingly quite moist.
Taking advantage of late-Autumn with three more, the Caramel Apple Muffin more Fruit than Sugar, those in search of something truly unique found it in a Bundt Cake featuring both sweet and savory, the Scone equally impressive thanks to Cocoa Butter contrasting Pecans before finishing with a soft-centered Chocolate Chip Sea Salt Cookie.
Although one might fairly guess the “World’s First Plant-Based Vegan Food Hall” would reside in a city like New York or Los Angeles, Chef Matthew Kenney instead opted for Providence, a total of five dining concepts and market joining 29 others stretching from Buenos Aires to Dubai.
A well-known name in the Plant Based community, “Matthew Kenney Cuisine” described as a California-based “lifestyle company,” it is amidst COVID-19 that Plant City currently operates as take-out only, the small widow adjacent South Water Street displaying several scratch-made Pastries plus a limited menu of Drinks, Mexican Food, Burgers and Coffee.
An entirely touchless experience, Plexiglas dividing staff from guests and Cash-free, it was in exchange for approximately $30 including tax + tip that seven items were presented, the Almond Croissant not on par with what one might achieve with good European Butter, though good nonetheless, while a Chai Snickerdoodle and Chocolate Chip Cookie were soft and indistinguishable from those made with Eggs and Dairy.
No doubt benefitted by nearby Universities, server and patrons both predominantly in their early 20s, Plant City’s seasonal Pumpkin Muffin struck all the right notes with bold-spicing and plenty of texture while sizable Pop-Tarts chock-full of Nuts versus Chocolate dueled for top billing over a Coffee Cake “Donut” that would have been more appropriately advertised simply as a round Coffee Cake.
Owned by Rhode Island native David Cass and Johnson & Wales University graduate Gio Salvador it was via three-wheels transporting a rolling freezer that Tricycle Ice Cream got started, the early days eventually yielding a brick and mortar storefront at 70 Battey Street where ownership continue to reinvent the Ice Cream Sandwich.
Arguably Providence’s best purveyor of frozen treats since 2014, Cones and sizable Tacos eventually joining scratch-made Cookies and Ice Cream, it is amidst the current pandemic that guests will find David and Gio still working hard to make guests smile, the fact that all items come hard-frozen and carefully wrapped providing an added layer of safety.
Known to use quality Ingredients along with creativity, Callebaut Chocolate and Organic Cream featured across some two-dozen choices, it was beginning with Ube that tasting got started, the Yam’s subtle sweetness nicely complimented by Coconut while seasonal Banana Pudding tasted precisely like what one might find down South – but frozen, dipped in Chocolate and rolled in Peanuts.
Built to travel, thirty minutes out of the freezer yielding a texture that yields without becoming messy, signature “Callebaut Chocolate Ice Cream + Salty Pretzel Cookies” is exactly as good as it sounds while Horchata with Caramelized Cereal Crumbs and rich Peanut Butter with Chocolate plus Oreo Cookie Chunks are equally noteworthy.
Hand Rolled Cous-Cous – Butter Roasted Carrots, Preserved Lemon, Yogurt
Tajarin – House Cured Guanciale, Fennel, Fermented Chili, Heirloom Squash
Piri Piri Duck – Grilled Gnarly Vines Duck, Roasted Winter Greens, Piri Piri Sauce
Papo Secos
Caramel Apple Ice Cream / Burnt Honey Ice Cream
It was with sadness that news of Birch’s impending closure started circling the internet in Autumn, the small space simply unable to sustain COVID-19’s impact no matter how refreshing Benjamin Sukle’s cooking or the fact that many considered it to be the best Restaurant in Rhode Island.
Flash forward to late November, the pandemic at peak velocity and nearly all of Providence declining indoor dining, it was via Pre-Order through TOCK that dinner was arranged at Chef Sukle’s more casual Oberlin, though unfortunately the experience was far from perfect.
Best described as Seasonal Small Plates, a “shared” situation and thriving bar scene not in line with current precautions, things got off to an inauspicious start with Food not ready until 20-minutes after the designated time, a lack of free downtown parking necessitating meter use only to arrive home and find a whole loaf of Bread missing.
Unapologetic to either error, a simple credit remedying the absent item, it was after quickly rewarming a few small portions that dinner was underway, first bites of Brandade salty yet balanced and beautiful while the ancient-Grain Flatbread was complex and enjoyable but frankly soggy due to haphazard packaging.
Vegetable-focused across much of the menu, a theme common to Birch and Oberlin since its 2015 opening, Honeynut Squash shined bright largely on the strength of its Ingredient quality, while “Crispy & Chewy Beets” found themselves lost to Celery that even overwhelmed the included Gremolata – an unexpected imbalance carried over to housemade Cous-Cous that lacked almost any flavor once past the Roasted Carrots.
Improving with Noodles done no favors by take-out, each ribbon nonetheless offering a bit of resistance to the tooth amidst Pork, Squash and Spice, suffice it to say that a $55 half-Duck was the only item truly “sharable” by three adults, its richness countering fiery Sauce and bitter Greens before diners cooled their mouths with dueling flavors of Ice Cream.
Described as a “Chicken and Fish Joint,” Bucktown has been a West-Side staple since 2016, the Restaurant’s small size necessitating a pivot to take-out only during the current pandemic, though the Food is mostly ideal for that format anyhow.
Owned by Adam Mir and Chef Ashley Faulkner, the latter’s family recipes contributing to a menu of Southern comfort Food, it was via online ordering that four items were bought and paid for, everything ready to go at 11:30 sharp from a touchless indoor countertop where all staff were sporting PPE.
Already expanded outside Providence, with another location planned for Boston, it was back home that three clamshells popped open revealing their contents, crisp and juicy Poultry immediately taking center stage thanks to its bold spice profile alongside hand-cut French Fries that held up surprisingly well to the fifteen minute drive.
Further impressed by Bucktown’s Waffle, cooked golden but still fluffy and a hit with the 3-year-old, Chef Faulkner’s Chicken Sandwich also warrants mention for a Boneless Thigh beneath tangy Comeback Sauce and fresh Veggies while the Hushpuppies offer fried bits of love imbued with Pork and Pepper.
Founded in 1905 by Domenico Palmieri, and since moved from Providence to Johnston, it is under the guidance of great-grandson Stephen and his two sons that D. Palmieri’s Bakery continues to offer sweets and savories to a loyal fanbase mid-pandemic.
Nothing short of a community staple, the famous Baked Goods expanded to a full Deli and Market with prepared Foods after relocating, it was early Saturday morning that D. Palmieri’s was found fully stocked, two masked women behind the counter not exactly “pleasant” but efficient and largely what one expects from an Italian Bakery in the Northeast.
Known for “Party Pizza,” available whole or by a bargain-priced “Strip,” it was outdoors at a local park that teeth pierced crispy Dough with lots of Garlic and Tomato Sauce, a Raspberry Twist to follow crumbling and expectedly dry, though once on the tongue plenty sweet with lingering notes of Butter.
Not a space built for #instagram, the recipes all old-timey as they should be, fans of Zeppole will find D. Palmieri’s soft with quality Cream while the Pistachio Muffin and Lemon Cream Square should not be overlooked as each are well-crafted and full of natural flavor.
Less impressed by Sfogliatelle, the Custard overcooked and freshness questionable as its bottom was soggy, better bites were found in a “Boston Cream Bomb” that sees fragrant Pudding atop delicate Sponge Cake coated in Dark Chocolate Ganache.
Located at 39 Greenville Avenue in Johnston, not far from Providence proper, Glaze‘n Daze Donuts has been serving guests since 2017, the taste and price tag a little more Dunkin’ than PVDonuts with flavors and creativity that fall somewhere in between.
Known for hand-cut “Specialty Gourmet Donuts,” the outside somewhat shabby around #instagram-worthy interior, it was from owner Kim that six rounds were selected, cheaper by half-dozen pricing not available due to an upcharged Apple Fritter, though that fact was not clearly explained.
Describing a “COMMITMENT TO ONLY PROVIDE THE MOST DELICIOUSLY LIGHT AND FLUFFY DONUTS IN RI” via literature, one bite of an Orange glazed round suggesting success thanks to a substantial rise beneath the flavor of Sunny D, Maple Almond also fared well thanks too restrained sweetness while the not-cake-donut “Butter Cake” was a little dry.
Using the same Dough as a vessel for various fillings, Raspberry Jelly at the center of a Peanut Butter glazed round clearly store-bought, suffice it to say that filled-to-order Strawberry Cream Cheese one-ups Dunkin’s Pink Frosting by quite a bit while Glaze‘n Daze’s Fritter is chock-full of Fruit complimented by Honey.
The Owner’s Favorite Pizza al Taglio – Mozzarella, Marinara, Prosciutto, Mushrooms, Goat Cheese, Basil
With locations in Warren as well as Providence Federal Hill Pizza is something of a misnomer, neither Restaurant actually found on the Hill already oversaturated with Italian Cuisine while the menu looks more “something for everyone” than most thanks to Burgers, Fish & Chips plus Quesadillas.
Closed for indoor service mid-Pandemic, locked doors requiring customers to call for pickup even after ordering online, it was beginning with fairly basic Fried Ravioli that dinner got started, Chef Billy Manzo’s “Favorite Pizza” also ordered in Rome’s crackling ‘al Taglio’ style that tasted fine but would have benefitted from a few more minutes in the oven.
Originally located inside Vault Coffee Roasters at Olde Mistick Village, Deviant Craft Coffee & Donuts made the jump to a space of its own shortly thereafter, and although business hours are currently limited thanks to COVID-19 ownership’s creativity has not been dampened in the slightest.
Currently operating out of Building 6 of 27 Coogan Boulevard, a take-out window and porch allowing a safe outdoor visit while all staff wear PPE, it was in six rounds from a weekly changing menu that guests partook, the box’s Se7en reference inducing a chuckle before Deviant’s signature Samoa riffed beautifully on the Girl Scout Cookie flavor.
Embracing a Thanksgiving theme on Black Friday, though Old Mystic Village had already jumped to Christmas, Pumpkin Pie placed a dollop of sweetened Puree at the center of dense Cake with Whip, while the Sweet Potato version fared better thanks to a lighter yeasted pocket with thick Glaze and charred Marshmallows on top.
Less fond of Pecan Pie, the handmade Donut again too heavy without a lot of Filling, better bites were found in Blueberry Coffee Cake that would have benefitted from a little more Fruit and a Cherry Streusel Fritter that should most certainly be shared considering its heft and sweetness.
Nana’s Thick Crust Sheet Pie – Tomatoes, Mozzarella, Black Pepper
The newest venture from 85th Day Food Community, the Mystic Hospitality group behind local favorites including Oyster Club and Engine Room, Nana’s Bakery was “born out of a desire to produce Bread to supply our restaurants,” but judged on its own the space itself is something of a hidden gem.
Located waterside on Williams Avenue, a residential area unlikely to draw a lot of foot traffic, it was less than two-weeks after opening that the storefront was found fairly busy, four cars coming and going throughout a thirty minute stay during which seven items were enjoyed at an outdoor picnic table.
Operated by Chef James Wayman and Dan Meiser, the duo’s Grass & Bone already giving Mystic its first artisan butcher shop in 2017, Nana’s instead builds from house-milled organic Grains, the Bread but one aspect while naturally leavened Pizza, Doughnuts and Baked Goods share the stage.
Focused more than ever on safe practices mid-pandemic, all staff donning mask and gloves from kitchen to counter, it was with an old-school Slice that dining got started, Nana’s version of a Grandma Pie crackling briskly on the bottom with a bit of stretch above while a round Pizza baked fresh found tangy Sourdough complimented by housemade Ragu with Vegetables and locally-sourced Cheese.
Not about to pass up a good Biscuit, this one living up to self-labeled status as big and beautiful with fluffy layers, Grass & Bone’s famous Beef Fat Chocolate Chip Cookie now finds itself baked here, and for those who consider it “too greasy” there are instead light and airy Doughnuts served hot with toppings such as aromatic Cardamom Espresso, almost-savory Caramel or better-than-it-sounds Cacio e Pepe.
Although Mystic Pizza is undoubtedly the city’s most famous eatery those in the know will quickly recognize Chef Adam Young, his multiple Food Network appearances building upon accolades first earned at Ocean House Hotel & Resort before launching Sift Bake Shop in 2016.
Raised in nearby Vermont, and inhabiting kitchens since the age of twelve, it is at 5 Water Street that guests will find Young and his crew serving guests from 7:00am until 7:00pm daily, the current pandemic doing little to diminish creativity or quality as diners queue amidst Plexiglas peering into a sizable, spotless prep area.
“French focused” but willing to explore, items such as a soft Whoopie Pie, decadent Brownie or beautifully laminated Cheese & Guava Danish likely never seen in Lyon but ‘sans précédent’ nevertheless, it was with a locally-roasted Cold Brew that a bakers-dozen Pastries were tasted, only a moist yet flavorless Scone disappointing in any way.
Educated at the New England Culinary Institute, and refining his skills in fine dining before striking out on his own, it is in Viennoiseries that guests will quickly recognize Chef Young’s talent, the Almond Croissant more like a Cream Puff than most while Sift’s oversized Pain au Raisin and Pecan Sticky Bun are on par with any that one will find stateside.
Paying homage to his wife with a Morning Bun, the “Ebbieoche” tying Croissant Dough in an elaborate knot before blasting it with Cinnamon-Sugar, fans of Cake will find several seasonal varieties available including Carrots and Spices rolled around Cream Cheese Icing, though Sift’s unassuming star may just be Cookies such as Blueberry Oatmeal, stacked Peanut Butter or beautifully-balanced Chocolate Walnut Sea Salt.
Opened mid-Pandemic, during an atypically quiet Summer in Mystic, “Young Buns” sees Chef Adam Young follow an idea espoused when his father joked that Adam’s now-famous Sift didn’t serve Doughnuts, and although things are far from ideal in society at the moment these fried rounds are about as close as it gets.
Described as “no frills” by ownership, though traveled diners may beg to differ, it is from a storefront at 46 West Main Street that Head Baker Kat McCutcheon mixes, proofs, cuts, fries and tops ~ dozen daily options, the choice of Brioche versus Cake entirely dictated by personal preference as each are archetypes of their genre.
Available for online pre-order, a smart choice as favorites sell-out daily, it was on the patio of Sift that teeth first pierced Young’s buttery Brioche, first beneath rich Chocolate Ganache plus Sprinkles and quickly followed by sliced Apples dripping with Salty Caramel.
Next taking a look at McCutcheon’s Cake, its delicate crumb standing up well against oil to yield a lighter-than-average bite, Young Buns’ Blueberry is in contention for “best in America” status thanks to plenty of fresh Fruit while seasonal filled-pockets also fair well from Pumpkin Puree to tart Cranberry Compote.
Passing on the eponymous Young Bun, but saving room for decadent Chocolate Cake topped with dueling Ganache and Dark Chocolate Curls, make no mistake when ordering to secure at least one “Mystic Crème Doughnut,” the combination of real Vanilla Bean with Pistachios plus Sea Salt an upgrade on Boston Cream in every possible way.
Operating under the motto “eat wicked, never feel guilty,” Sin has been serving Providence since 2007, a reputation established by Special Occasion Cakes since expanding to include Coffee and Baked Goods plus an evening Tasting Menu offering Desserts paired to Cocktails.
Using quality ingredients with care, local when possible, it was for Thanksgiving 2020 that four Pies were ordered for take-out, Pumpkin fairly predictable while Pecan and Chocolate Cream each proved indulgent but not overly sweet before finishing with nicely roasted Apples beneath buttery Cinnamon Crumble.
Green Cabbage and Fennel – Citrus and Sesame Dressing
Cranberry Sauce – Orange, Kombu
Apple Pie – Vanilla Ice Cream
Although Chef James Mark is now better known for Big King, those familiar with Providence’s dining scene will recall a time when the West Side space was home to North, a concept since moved to downtown’s The Dean Hotel and the source of a wonderful Thanksgiving dinner enjoyed by three adults plus a child during a particularly rough year.
A holiday tradition dating to 2012 for Chef Mark, but this year publically available for the first time, it was at a cost of $50 per person that eleven plates were portioned generously, a tweet reading “Can’t swing that price this year? I hear that. Dm me. It’s all good” particularly impressive from the man with skills sharpened across time with the Momofuku empire.
A James Beard Foundation Award nominee, with flavors wide-ranging, it was from thorough re-heating instructions that Dinner was readied in twenty-minutes, Baked Littleneck Clams whetting the appetite for Turkey roasted around Forcemeat, Potatoes with some texture and complexly-flavored rectangles of Stuffing.
An undeniable bargain considering Ingredient-quality and portions, Macaroni and Cheese referencing Providence’s most famous Restaurant indulgent to say the least, those in favor of lighter sides found their fix in simple Cabbage Salad as well as earthy Root Vegetables and nicely caramelized Crucifers.
Not about to forget Biscuits, a North-staple supersized and served flaky with fiery Butter, it was after cooling the tongue with Cranberry Sauce that Dessert was served, the crustless Apple Pie perhaps better described as “Crumble” nonetheless lovely beneath slowly-melting Ice Cream.
Pumpkin Cheesecake Bar
Salted Caramel Chocolate Chip Cookie Bar
An online shop owned by a locally born and educated Pastry Chef, Whisk Me Away Bakehouse provided four Pastries for a small Thanksgiving spread, the Chocolate Chip Cookie Bar most memorable though none of the items suggested Summa Cum Laude at Johnson & Wales University skills, particularly the overly-dense Whoopie Pie bested by any number of amateur home bakers.
A must-visit when in Providence, it was less than an hour after landing at BOS that a dozen pre-ordered rounds were unboxed, the fact that PVDonuts continues to sell out daily during COVID-19 a testament to quality that remains unparalleled anywhere in America.
No lines in 2020, though Social Distancing has done nothing to slow down Paul and Lori Kettelle’s creativity or ever-changing list of scratch-made flavors, it was along with two adults and a child that Baked Apple Pie was divided, fluffy Brioche standing up well to fragrant filling both here and in the case of Pumpkin Puree as well as Cookie Butter.
Still impressed by PVDonut’s multitude of styles, the rarity of seeing Fritters, Crullers, Cake, Old Fashioned and Yeast in the same shop not lost on a connoisseur, it was beneath a Cookie plus Maple Cinnamon-Sugar that Dough remained airy, though so too was the case with one-day-only “Friendsgiving” featuring Fried Turkey, Mashed Potatoes, Cranberries and Stuffing.
Personally favoring Old Fashioned Donuts, and happy to see three on the November menu, it was following Blueberry Cake featuring no mix but fresh local Fruit that “Oreo Cheesecake” took center stage, its texture crumbly yet melting with expected richness while a version with Caramel and Pecans was equally delicious.
Showing well with Carrot Cake, though Walnuts or Raisins would have added to the effect, seasonality was spotlighted with three more Pumpkin Donuts, the Brioche and Starbucks-riffing Cake both enjoyable while the sliced, filled and loaded Pumpkin Cannoli Old Fashioned was a work of art.
In many ways Sin City’s biggest opening of 2018, or at least it’s most exclusive, the shutter of Vetri Cucina seemed inevitable – a combination of exorbitant prices and The Palms’ wanton spending raising eyebrows of even the most well-traveled diners long before anyone had heard of COVID-19.
Flash forward nearly two years, the Bergamo-trained Chef from Philly transporting his talents and reputation to Red Rock Casino in July 2020, it was on the strength of Osteria Fiorella’s dinner service that six diners sat down for Sunday Brunch al Fresco, though unfortunately little save for the Pastries, conversation and dollars spent was memorable
Begun as a pop-up, but officially announced as a permanent fixture with signage in August, Brunch at Fiorella is a fairly new development, the lack of Dinner’s complimentary Bread service immediately worth mentioning as small plates instead remain empty unless one orders the Pastry Plate featuring a delicious Biscuit, Coffee Cake, Cornetto and Scone.
Additionally finding Thanksgiving’s Pumpkin Tart alongside Pastries, both it and a slice of Old School Cheesecake offered as gifts from Pastry Chef Ashley Costa, the oft-Instagrammed “Giant” Cinnamon Bun lives up to its name at the bargain price of $10 while bite-size Apple Fritters are light and oilless at approximately $2 per bite.
Not the sort usually turned-off by high prices, but at the same time fully aware of Ingredient costs, what came next was an egregious $16 slice of French Toast, the otherwise “free” Focaccia sliced 0.5 inches thick and bathed in a pool of Berries with Syrup plus a few dollops of Ricotta.
Reservations-requested and masks-required, thermal scanning at the Casino entrance providing an added layer of safety, it was while a drunken middle-age woman held court nearby that Brunch turned savory, two Toasts fair-to-middling while crispy Potatoes coated in $4-extra Cheese and Bacon was absolutely delicious.
Told that Eggs in Purgatory were something of a signature, though anyone familiar with Shakshouka will find this plate lacking in complexity, the safe bet with Marc Vetri was once again Pasta, the handmade Ravioli offering a good bite with bold flavor while the Bucatini is fairly basic but enjoyable.
Finishing with a Pizza that tops $30 after tax and tip, arguably the most expensive wood-fired Pie in Las Vegas, it was after settling a tab including $5 store-bough Tea Bags that guests departed sated but not full, a one-and-done experience that fell far short on dinner in terms of cost as well as creativity.
THREE STARS: Although Marc Vetri remains one of America’s greatest Italian Chefs Brunch at Osteria Fiorella seems like nothing but a money grab, though if one focuses only on sweets Pastry Chef Costa remains one of the most under-discussed talents.
RECOMMENDED: Biscuit, Giant Cinnamon Bun, Crispy Potatoes, Ravioli Tre Formaggi, Jenny’s Old School Ricotta Pie (not usually offered at Brunch.)
AVOID: Foccaccia French Toast, Eggs in Purgatory.
TIP: Dessert is not offered at Brunch.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Recently selected for a celebration in early October, it was alongside friends and family that dinner was enjoyed at Top of the World on Saturday, recently-appointed Executive Chef Chad Castanino debuting nearly a dozen new plates across two hours in a room well-designed for social distancing.
Still flying high amidst COVID-19 precautions, masked staff and half the number of tables creating an atmosphere that immediately feels more luxurious than nights with 500+ covers, it is after traveling 106 stories above ground level that guests are welcomed warmly, a four-top booth affording panoramic views of Sin City from Henderson to Red Rock.
Happy to see Golden Entertainment Corporate Executive Chef Brad Manchester on site, he and Chef Castanino each contributing ideas that date back to their tenure at Hard Rock Hotel and Casino, it was not long before drinks were poured, a modernized Margarita joining the herbal Midnight Dream and Dessert-like Salted Caramel Pretzel.
Recently adding some neon to its interior walls, careful staff visibly working a small kitchen at the center of Top of the World’s rotating room, dinner began with Appetizers and a Bread Basket, the former all new and each exemplary from thinly sliced Beef beneath melting Duck Liver to thick-cut Pork and Mushroom Caps stuffed with slowly braised Short Ribs with Truffles.
Continuing with Salads, each amply portioned for sharing, there may be no more weighty Wedge in Las Vegas than this version at The Strat, while Seafood is prominently featured amidst a Lobster Cobb that works quite nicely side-by-side with Asian-influenced Calamari “Fries.”
Still sourcing great Ingredients, Nebraska providing 16-ounces of USDA Prime Beef cooked Medium Rare beneath reduced Bacon, Onions and Shrooms, fans of lighter fare should dive right into spicy Seafood and housemade Pasta or seared Scallops brightened by Citrus and Soy.
Harboring limited capacity after such a substantial meal, but thoroughly enjoying both Castanino’s Potatoes and Brussels Sprouts, Dessert consisted of long-time showstoppers such as Baked Alaska and 21-layer Chocolate Cake, while former Chef Pawan Pinisetti’s Butter Cake has only gotten better thanks to a whole stick of Butter dissolved in Sugar and Flour beneath a big scoop of Ice Cream.
FOUR AND A HALF STARS: At this point best seen as ‘in transition,’ a new Chef and half the tables creating an opportunity to debut fresh ideas, Top of the World remains Las Vegas most impressive view with Food and service befitting the price point.
With Restaurants around the World cautiously serving diners amidst the pandemic Locale Italian Kitchen has continued to support Las Vegas since the earliest days of SARS-CoV-2, and with Chef Marc Marrone steering Andy Hooper’s spot at Mountain’s Edge the Food has only continued to improve each day.
Nothing short of a destination in the far-Southwest, an area long in need of culinary enlightenment, Locale currently offers both dine-in and take-away from Monday through Sunday, the menu evolving daily with several new items set to debut amidst cooling weather.
Already delivered to the office five times under Chef Marrone’s tenure, plus takeout twice exceeding expectations, Thursday’s delivery came from Mr. Hooper consisting of eleven items, an abundance able to feed twenty-five at bargain prices considering both Ingredients and portions.
Professionally packed and temperature appropriate, a mix of regional Italian plates and Chef Marrone’s family recipes benefited by finesse, lunch began with a dialed-up Chop Salad highlighted by Sopressata and imported Cheese while Roasted Beets delighted many alongside a Pizza newly appointed with Housemade Sausage and Peppers.
Lightening things up with Citrus-soaked Broccolini, plus mixed Shellfish bathing in Tomatoes plus Cumin, additional Secondi consisted of Sin City’s most robustly flavored Meatballs, the thick bed of Fontina Cheese Polenta and Sauce with some Heat building a true “Entree” out of something usually offered as a Side Dish.
Adding a Pasta duo, upright Rigatoni stuffed with Veal Ragu and Ricotta somewhat reminiscent of Lasagna, fans of Gnocchi need look no further than Locale for the lightest Potato Dumplings in Las Vegas, their buoyancy a brilliant foil to slowly-simmered Pork Ragu and Tomatoes.
Not done yet, thinly pounded Chicken Milanese fried golden atop Arugula Salad with Citrus Vinaigrette, suffice it to say that Marrone’s Arancini are the perfect antidote to cold weather while the smooth yet crumbly “New York Brulee” is great as ever drizzled with preserved Blueberries.
N/A: Making it blog policy to not ‘rate’ places based on catering alone, Locale Italian Kitchen continues to serve excellent Food made from local Ingredients at a price point that is more than generous, and under the leadership of Marc Marrone the Food only seems to be getting better with each subsequent order.
RECOMMENDED: Wild Mushroom Arancini, Sunday Sauce Gnocchi, Veal and Ricotta Stuffed Rigatoni, Anita’s Meatballs, Cioppino, New York Brulee Cheesecake.
AVOID: N/A.
TIP: Follow @localelv on Social Media for hours, updates menu and specials.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
