Not about to get lost in the land of Frank Pepe’s, Modern Apizza and Sally’s, the promise of brick oven Pizza, freshly brewed Beer and Dancing luring in locals and Ivy League students for over a decade, it was en route from Manhattan to Mystic that a stop was made at BAR in New Haven, a nearly 45-minute wait for tables benefiting solo diners willing to dine at one of two actual Bars where the full menu is available.
Originally established as a Microbrewery but quickly developing a following for New Haven’s signature style of charred Pie, the Food options actually limited to just that and a lone Salad with plenty of customization available, it is shortly after seating that diners are greeted by one of several bustling staff members, Beer flowing from taps almost endlessly and Pies emerging from an enormous oven at a rate of one every couple minutes.
Open every night of the week – as well as for lunch Wednesday through Sunday – with three sizes of not-quite-round Pizza presented on baking trays, it was perhaps fifteen minutes after placing an order that two “smalls” arrived, the bartender’s flirting with an EMT in uniform unfortunately delaying water refills but the sixteen slices hot and fresh with 3-4 more than capable of sating the average diner.
Reportedly using a gas oven instead of the competition’s coal, an odd fact as the oven closely resembles Pepe’s and Modern with Pizzaiolos using lengthy wooden peels to insert and extract Pizzas, there is nonetheless no doubt that this is New Haven-style on first taste, the Crust extra thin and medium-crisp but still capable of being folded whether one selects simple Mozzarella and housemade Tomato Sauce or BAR’s signature white Pie with no Cheese but a carb-load buoyed by garlicky Mashed Potatoes and Bacon Crumbles.
Channeling an old-school Coffee Shop vibe instead of the high-polish refinement of Du’s, Dun-Well, Doughnut Plant or so many other modern Doughnutries it would seem that Moe’s Doughs Donut Shop had occupied the corner of McGuinness and Nassau for much longer than three and a half years, but as a visit on Thursday showed the antique appearance is just a front for shelves stocked with some of Brooklyn’s finest fried Pastry.
Rumored to be operated by a former baker from Peter Pan, a 2013 visit showing the 1950s Manhattan Avenue landmark to be decent but more a product of nostalgia than anything truly noteworthy, it was before departing for New York that an order was phoned into Moe’s Doughs requesting twelve items be set aside, an arrival just past 4:00pm finding everything boxed and ready to go at an all-inclusive cost of just $23.50.
Not the sort of place to fuel its own Social Media stream or hire a Public Relations firm, the location in hipster-central Greenpoint and word-of-mouth enough to see the longer-than-wide shop sold out of their most desirable items by noon on most days, it was with boxes and bags taken to the car that a tasting soon progressed beginning in Brooklyn and moving north through New Haven to Mystic, the Black & White Cookie fluffy and moist with frosting as opposed to icing while the Jumbo Cinnamon Roll weighed in at about 12 ounces of springy dough and sugary shellac that was not the least bit oily.
Taking on both Cake and raised Donuts, many of Moe’s Doughs ideas eschewing Instagram-aesthetics in the same manner that Peter Pan has for years, it was in follow-up to a few bites of the Roll that a pale green ring rolled in crushed Pistachios was tasted, everything about the texture speaking to ideal frying time while sweetness was restrained, the same to be said of a Blueberry Cake Ring though the signature Rainbow was a little more sugary and evidence that ownership is at least aware of modern dining trends.
Self-selecting approximately 3/4 of the order and allowing Moe to fill in the dozen it was as Pizza was being readied at BAR that an eggy Cruller topped in Frosting was sampled, that same Buttercream forming the center of a hefty Chocolate “Volcano” that reminisced the flavors of an Oreo Cookie while the Boston Cream and Apple Crumb were both fluffy and stuffed – the former by Custard and the latter with Fruit and Streusel.
Discovering a plain Glazed Donut later on, the novelty a bit lost at this point but consistency still up to snuff nearing 9:00pm, it was unfortunate that Caramel atop the Cheesecake had hardened to the point of being inedible as the Cream Cheese dusted in Graham Cracker was creamy and delicious, though not to the same degree as a flattened Yeast round wrapped around Chocolate Chips plus housemade Ricotta and Mascarpone filling.
Long known as one of Manhattan’s best Scandinavian Restaurants, Chef Marcus Samuelsson making a name for himself and the space near MoMA during the late-1990s and early 2000s, it was not until former Pastry Chef Emma Bengtsson took over the kitchen in 2014 that Aquavit captured its second Michelin Star and although some may say the Food has never been quite the same since Samuelsson departed for stardom a lunch on Thursday indicated that there is still a lot to like about the place.
Officially located at 65 East 55th Street for nearly three decades, a lounge up front and muted dining room to the side given splashes of color by wall art and flowers, it was just minutes prior to a 12:45pm reservation that coats were checked and diners led to a linen-clad four-top, the collection of leather banquets and sleek chairs providing comfortable seating over the course of nearly two hours.
Presenting a truncated lunch menu in comparison to dinner, a three-course prix fixe and seasonal tasting menu offered in addition to a la carte plates including Aquavit’s famous Swedish Meatballs and Salmon Burger that are not offered in the evening save for at the Bar, it was after settling in with greetings from a youthful captain that decisions were made, a total of ten plates divided into three courses tallying just $65 per person exclusive of Beverages.
In many ways a unique Restaurant despite its traditional underpinnings, Samuelsson’s childhood as an Ethiopian raised in Sweden and Chef Bengtsson’s Stockholm roots befitting a classic sort of cuisine that stands in stark contrast to the global obsession with “New Nordic” ideas, it was after a brief delay that two types of Bread including dense Rye stuffed with Sunflower Seeds were joined by four Appetizers, the trio of Fishes all cured or smoked in-house and highlighted by Salmon Tartare beneath Dill, diced Apples and Trout Roe while the “7x Beef Tartare” placed hand-cut Prime Filet lacquered in smoky Mayonnaise beneath crispy Potatoes along with briny Capers.
Deferring much of the order to two friends who’d dined at Aquavit prior, their choice of a Herring Sampler proving far better than anticipated save for the slices overwhelmed by Horseradish, it was after a prolonged wait that Water and Bread were refreshed along with share plates in anticipation of entrees, the $28 Swedish Meatballs tender and rich alongside traditional condiments while Sausage with Sauerkraut and Mustard Seed Potatoes was a bit too pungent bite-for-bite, a far better balance of flavor saved for Dumplings called Kroppkakor featuring mashed Potatoes stuffed with Allspice, Onions and Pork.
Dining slowly and enjoying the serenity of the room, something less and less common these days that makes Aquavit an ideal place for catching up or talking business, it was once again with fresh plates that a trio of Desserts was presented, the prix-fixe “Apple” an elongated strip not dissimilar to Sticky Toffee Pudding in texture while “Coffee” and the specially requested Dinner-only Arctic Bird’s Nest were both textbook examples of how to balance sweetness with bitterness while adding intrigue by way of crispy Grains and fresh Berries.
Having renewed an interest in Mexican Food and culture in 2017 it was just as ATLA was about to open that Enrique Olvera’s Mexico City flagship was first experienced, a visit to Pujol in March outperforming what many other culinary tourists had labeled a falling-off at the new location and spurring additional visits to Eno as well as Cosme that were enjoyable enough to justify taking a look at his and Daniela Soto-Innes’ all-day Nolita hotspot with a friend on Thursday morning.
Currently toqued by Hugo Vera and open for just under ten months, the menu having undergone slow changes and incremental increases in price during both breakfast and lunch/dinner, guests approaching the glass and concrete space on the corner of Lafayette and Great Jones Street will likely first be taken by the simplicity of design and slight silhouette of tables, the menu equally compact and short on descriptions.
Taking a far more modest approach than Cosme to Mexican Cuisine, the bulk of fourteen plates available before 1pm fairly traditional with occasional elements of intrigue beyond their substantial price tags, it was beginning with a $7 glass of cold Horchatta made more savory by ground Sesame Seeds that the morning got underway, a Latin American soundtrack mingling with tech-talk from four men to the left and politics as viewed by two yoga-mat toting mothers whose table sat less than a foot away.
Pleasant yet efficient in terms of service, the half-full space in general seeing breakfasts delivered within fifteen minutes of ordering, it was after a bit of catching up that three plates and one Concha arrived, the former requiring an extra $3 to add a few warm Tortillas while the $7 Pastry (that was only $5 and bathed in Dulce de Leche when ATLA first opened) was laughably smaller than the 79-cent versions sold at most Mexican grocery stores and only slightly better in terms of freshness and texture.
Quickly perusing the rest of the options to figure out where $46 had been spent, a pile of medium thickness Tortilla Chips soaking in Red Sauce and buried under lots of raw Onions plus a $3 fried Egg dubbed Chilaquiles, it was only the addition of Sesame Seeds that elevated this dish beyond what one might get for half at a Restaurant without *Celebrity Chef* status while the “Ranchero Eggs” featured two poached orbs in a pool of thick Tomato Sauce with the heat of Chile Peppers and perhaps a tablespoon of Cotija Cheese.
Admittedly getting the flavors right despite nickel-and-diming for Tortillas that were absolutely necessary, yet inexplicably absent, from the Eggs it was finally with ATLA’s $15 Enfrijolada that a $96 breakfast came to its conclusion, the pureed Black Bean Enchiladas themselves nothing special but the deeply colored Sauce reminiscent of Olvera’s legendary Mole with a bit less complexity but more body.
In an era where even a lousy Restaurant can generate a 24-hour uptick in revenue by having an Instagram “influencer” party and empires have been built on photogenic Burgers it seems less and less common to find an eatery doing something that is both unique and high quality, so when Ry Stephen of California-based Mr. Holme’s Bakehouse decided to set up shop in the Lower East Side there was plenty of reason to be skeptical, particularly in the setting of $8 Croissants and $4 Bomboloni.
Co-owned and operated by Chef Stephen and Aron Tzimas with a stark design and cheeky flourishes not dissimilar to the San Francisco flagship or Los Angeles’ outpost of Mr. Holmes, the name Supermoon a nod to the crescent and orb shapes on display atop a lengthy counter just inside the Bakehouse doors, it was fifteen minutes after the store’s 8:00am opening that customers were welcomed by a lone woman running the front of house while a team of bakers worked behind glass in plain view of pintsized indoor tables.
Originally opened in early October and thus far not generating the same fanaticism of the original location nor Dominique Ansel’s beloved Cronut, Ry’s signature Cruffin still prone to frequent transformation while the rest of a twelve-part menu changes seasonally or as innovation strikes, it was upon browsing items on display that the decision was made to invest $42.50 in seven selections, the two “messiest” plated and served with golden utensils while the rest were carefully boxed in holographic cardboard heavy with branding.
No doubt an expensive undertaking, the high cost of rent, quality ingredients, labor and production all passed on to the customer and thus raising expectations alongside price tags, it was with pictures taken that tasting began with an $8 Almond Cranberry Twice-Baked Croissant, the crackling exterior decorated in Vanilla Cream and Almond Brittle giving way to arching lamination lightly scented with Almond surrounding layers of Crème Patissiere and housemade Cranberry Jelly.
Attempting to move from mild to richer and thus not overwhelm the palate, a more difficult task than it might seem considering the complexity of Supermoon’s collection, it was with a light squeeze that the first of three Donuts was plucked from the box, a whiff of Saffron immediately filling the sinuses as a bite was taken and quickly replaced by sweetened Sesame while the follow-up Banana Split Sundae Croissant doubled down on its twice-baked sibling by placing tender Fruit at the center amidst Chocolate and Caramel while dialing up the texture by way of chunks of Fudge plus Banana Chips decorated in Gold Leaf.
Impressed to this point, a second look at the Croissant/Muffin hybrid showing the Instagram-favorite to again be less interesting than the rest of Chef Stephen’s Viennoiserie in terms of texture even though the classic combination of Chocolate and Cherry was quite pleasant, it was after a rich Peanut Butter and Jelly Donut that the best item of the morning was tasted in the form of a “Winter Ferrero Rocher,” the iconic Italian Candy reinterpreted by way of housemade Nutella Ganache at the center of light and flaky Croissant dipped in Meringue.
Setting aside halves of several items for later, all but the PB&J Donut maintaining their original texture for at least six hours, it was finally with Supermoon’s Mocha Butterscotch Donut that the tasting reached its conclusion, all the expected decadence of an ingredient list including Chocolate Brioche, Chocolate Mocha Cream and Butterscotch found in the lightly fried ball with a bittersweet piece of Coffee Fudge on top.
Owned and operated by a man named Ilya it was on the recommendation of a friend that the GPS was pointed towards Brooklyn Doughnutry immediately upon landing at JFK, a special request 24-hours prior assuring that one of the eatery’s Chocolate Babka would be available by 7:30am and the surprising lack of traffic plus a quick walk in the cold finding the small shop still in the process of getting ready at 7:15.
Open for just seven months at 50 Malcolm X Boulevard, a mere block from the Kosciuszko Street M-J-Z line making the storefront easily accessible to both Manhattanites and Brooklyn residents, guests approaching Brooklyn Doughnutry will likely feel a bit uneasy with the rugged appearance of the neighborhood and shop itself, though based on a visit this past Thursday there is a lot more than first impressions might indicate to what is happening inside.
Listing hours from 7a-7p Monday through Friday and 8a-5p on Weekends, a postage stamp floorplan preventing inside seating and racks completely barren on arrival despite doors being unlocked, it was shortly after entering that a young woman greeted visitors at the door with pleasantries and an offer of hot Coffee, the owner in back finishing-up the Babka and inquisitive as to how someone from 2,500 miles away had heard of Brooklyn Doughnutry as he frosted a pair of warm rings behind a sheet of Plexiglas.
Admittedly running a bit behind on this particular morning, many of the day’s Frostings not yet made and filled Donuts “still a few hours” from being ready, it was after brief discussion that the decision was made to select just four items, the bargain-basement price of just $11.50 for what must have been about 30oz of Pastry an undeniable bargain anywhere and the shop’s location in New York City making it all the more so.
Using a Brioche base for each of the store’s creations, Cake Doughnut fans therefore out of luck but perhaps in a position to be converted by Ilya’s oversized rounds with a golden exterior overlying wispy pockets with pronounced egginess beneath a hint of Yeast, it was en route to the train that both the Maple and Strawberry Rings were released from plastic clamshells – the former Brooklyn Doughnutry’s version of plain “glazed” but far better thanks to the Syrup while the Simpson’s-style pink one was not dissimilar to Dunkin in terms of pseudo-Strawberry taste.
Impressed to this point but anticipating the best to come, a fairly empty L-train allowing plenty of space to eat, it was with several riders starring that a sizable Cinnamon Roll was unbagged and eaten in strips from outside inward, the complete lack of Oil making one guess that glazed Roll had been baked rather than fried while the $4 Babka was undoubtedly the work of an oven with eight fluffy curls of Brioche overlying a treasure trove of Dark Chocolate on the inside.
Originally opened in Salt Lake City in the early eighties and subsequently expanded by way of franchising, one remaining location in St. George and the other right here in Sin City for over a decade, it was prior to a concert at The Joint that a last-minute change in plans led to the very “adult” decision to eat Ice Cream for dinner…or actually, truth be told, frozen Custard from Nielsen’s.
Named after its founder Steve Nielsen and at various times in its existence garnering press from National Publications including a television spot on American Restoration, the combination of frozen Treats and 1950’s décor difficult to dislike even on a bad day, guests entering Nielsen’s will immediately find themselves surrounded in nostalgia including old signs and cash registers with Elvis playing overhead, though the trio of young Ladies behind the counter likely did not feature one born prior to the year 2000.
Located in the corner-pocket of the same sizable strip-mall that contains Taco Y Taco and Popped at 9480 South Eastern Avenue, a previous location across the street abandoned for more space but the same equipment brought over to produce a dense Cream and Egg mixture available in Vanilla, Chocolate or special daily flavor it was with good fortune that Saturday featured Butter Pecan, the $2.54 price for a Single an undeniable bargain in a cup or on a cone.
Additionally offering Sundaes, Floats and Concretes comprised of one flavor plus a list of over fifty Sauces or Mix-Ins, the quality perhaps not as “artisan” as Shake Shack but prices, portions and variety offering far better value on the dollar, it was after lengthy debate that the decision was made to customize a Concrete alongside the cone, a brief wait and $9.57 exchanged for what must have been about twelve ounces total.
Visiting on a particularly chilly day, temperatures below 40°F still seeing four tables occupied and everyone enjoying their selections, it was on first taste of Butter Pecan that Nielsen’s base revealed itself to be every bit as creamy as the likes of locally-owned Luv-It and CJ’s or even St. Louis’ famous Ted Drewes, the sweetness of an Ice Cream parlor classic slightly more restrained than usual while the rich Vanilla Concrete with chunks of Cheesecake and Strawberry Sundae Topping was so thick that the cup could be flipped over with spilling.
FOUR STARS: No longer quite as novel a concept as it was in the 80s, or even in 2008 with the proliferation of Ice Cream and Frozen Yogurt across the nation, Nielsen’s still offers a quality product at a good price with friendly service inside fun confines.
RECOMMENDED: Butter Pecan.
AVOID: Real Strawberries would have been preferred to the Sundae Topping in Syrup.
TIP: Take-home Pints and Quarts of previous “Daily Flavors” are available in limited quantities at the Register.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Two years in and at this point a landmark eatery for the residents of Henderson, each passing day attracting regulars in addition to new folks from across the greater Las Vegas Metro, it was with the promise of fresh Apple Fritters as part of the ever-changing Brunch that a thirty minute drive was made across town to CRAFTkitchen, Jaret and Tami Blinn’s home of “Local. Quality. Eats.” once again pursuing creativity in a city where other places seem content to stand pat.
Only improving since adding former Mothership Pastry-guru Beth Ryan-Small to the team, her time on the Strip and recent history of Gluten-free as well as Vegan baking complimenting an already impressive program, it was minutes prior to 11am that the Restaurant was found brimming with activity, a twenty-minute wait for tables circumvented by a visit to the take-out counter where several new items were selected along with some old favorites.
Happy to see the place so busy, staff still persistently smiling even during a big rush, it was with items carefully boxed and taken elsewhere that a total of eight Pastries were tasted including five new ones, the decision to start out savory finding Jaret’s Ham and Cheese Kouign Amann as flaky and delicious as ever while the dipped Black & White Cookie was lighter than most traditional versions, but still pleasantly moist and fluffy.
Continuing the Cookie theme alongside Coffee, a buttery Shortbread topped with Almonds and faintly flavored like Licorice good on its own but practically made for dunking, it was next that Beth’s Vegan Scone topped with Blueberries and Blood Orange Icing again raised the bar for butterless Pastries, the Blueberry theme continued inside of Chef Blinn’s peerless Poptart that came even more packed with fresh Fruit than usual on this particular morning.
Doubling down on the last three selections, gooey Vegan-friendly and Gluten-free Chocolate Chunk Cookies topped in Caramel almost impossibly delicious despite their dietary restrictions, it was after a bit of rewarming that both the Banana Walnut Nutella Muffin and “overnight” Apple Fritter were divvied up to taste, the former a bit disappointing as Nutella only graced the top instead of forming a core as it did at Sunrise while the latter set a new standard to which other Donut shops should aspire by being crisp yet packed with fruit and fluffy on the inside without a hit of oiliness on the exterior.
FIVE STARS: Never content with relying on past success CRAFTkitchen continues to refine, tweak and invent in 2018, the addition of Chef Ryan-Small to an already impressive team further solidifying the Restaurant’s status as the 702’s best place for Breakfast.
RECOMMENDED: Apple Fritter, Blueberry Poptart, Ham & Cheese Kouign Amann, Vegan Gluten Free Double Chocolate Chunk Cookie.
AVOID: The Banana Walnut Nutella Muffin was fine, but the Chef’s prior “stuffed” version was far better.
TIP: One problem with an “ever-changing” Brunch is that some of these items may not be available next week, in which case it will simply be necessary to try something different – and likely just as delicious.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Falafel Wrap on Fresh Taftoon Bread, Spicy Yogurt, Simple Salad
Baklava
Featuring two locations in the Southeast, Fresh Kabob near McCarran and Kabob Oasis on South Eastern Avenue close to St. Rose Parkway, it was with previous lunch plans on Saturday abandoned that a stop was made at the latter, the results falling somewhat shy of greatness alleged by a colleague even though the food was seemingly authentic, affordable and fresh.
Originally opened in 2012 with location #2 arriving late-Spring 2015, a replacement for former tenant Shawarma Plus apparently a franchised outpost of the Airport location serving a similar menu, it was around 11:30am that the corner-space of a strip-mall was entered, no other diners present but a petite woman quickly emerging from the back room to take orders.
Laid out as a lengthy counter next to a sizable seating area, orders placed prior to payment and diners subsequently invited to sit and wait while listening to genre-appropriate music accompanied by video from a lone TV, it was a few minutes after seating that a thin man emerged from a small office to begin cooking, two skewers quickly plucked from a refrigerator and placed over the grill while he spent several minutes rolling, cutting and baking fresh Persian Bread.
Serving only Halal Meats and eschewing all preservatives, unnatural colorings and fillers, the promise that everything served is never frozen or microwaved proudly promoted both online and in the menu, it was while watching the man fill the clay oven that a first plate of two dips was delivered, a few leaves of greenery stacked in front of lightly charred Taftoon with a distinct tanginess to the fluffy crumb that plays well off smoky pureed Eggplant, though a bit less well with Hummus that would benefit from a bit more seasoning and less Oil.
Not quite finished with the Hummus and Babaganoush as a second patron entered the space, a $16.99 Kabob combination arriving just as the nearby hospital’s employee placed his order, those looking for a good “deal” will potentially find the plate appealing as it offers more than a half-pound of Meat in addition to just as much Rice, though the fact that Chicken was grilled to the point of dry while Saffron was imperceptible amongst the grains significantly restricted the enjoyment of everything save for cubes of Lamb that shined beneath a spicy Marinade.
Taking a Vegetarian Wrap to go, the contents questionably as “fresh” as Kabob Oasis would suggest since the Falafel was not fried-to-order and came crumbled amidst spicy Sauce and Vegetables, it was setting aside the majority that attention turned to a $1.99 Baklava slice, the layers of pastry not Honey-soaked but at the same time not crisp which makes one question not just whether it is made on-site, but when as well.
TWO AND A HALF STARS: Comparatively priced to Parsley Mediterranean and Sababa, but only improving on those by way of the freshly baked Bread while falling short otherwise, those considering Kabob Oasis would do well to pick and choose wisely or simply move on to another Mediterranean Restaurant in a city that has plenty.
RECOMMENDED: Baba Ghanoush, Lamb Kabob, Fresh Taftoon Bread.
AVOID: Falafel, Chicken Kabob, Baklava, Rice.
TIP: Currently offering discounts via Groupon, restaurant.com and a free Beverage with Social Media Check-in.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Candy Apple & Churro Sundae – Dulce de Leche, Cinnamon Ice Cream, Caramel Corn
Bourbon Maple Brown Butter Crème Brulee – Hazelnut Crust, Pomegranate, Cranberry Sorbet, Minus 8 Vinegar Caviar
Although many are likely unaware of Chef Charlie Palmer’s eponymous Steakhouse at Four Seasons it would be difficult for anyone visiting The Mandalay Bay complex to miss Aureole, still to this day one of Las Vegas’ most dramatic rooms and a post-dinner visit on Friday once again telling of a combination of gifted individuals and exceptional product.
Toqued by the Michigan-Ohio combination of Chef John Church and Executive Sous Chef Athena Thickstun, the latter largely responsible for a menu of sweets that evolves gradually to compliment the former’s focus on elegant seasonal fare, it was shortly after descending the staircase around Aureole’s several-story Wine Vault that greetings were offered by the Restaurant’s General Manager, a choice of seats thanks to low volume presenting a sizeable two-top at the main room’s center.
Exactly 1/2 changed from a November visit, Pumpkin Bread Pudding as well as the Rose Apple Tart lost to colder weather and Passion Fruit nowhere to be found, it was with Espresso in hand that Chef Thickstun described a Creamsicle Parfait to start things off light, the mimetic Orange at the center of a large plate surrounded with White Chocolate squiggles and filled with Vanilla Ice Cream atop a dense Pistachio Cake that nicely tempered the sour Winter Citrus.
Moving next to a Brownie Sundae, Charlie Palmer’s “Progressive American” style nowhere better exampled than in a combination of Chocolate and Peanut Butter that one-ups the similar Candy Bar at his Steakhouse by way of myriad textures and a bigger scoop of Ice Cream, it was with the last bits of Brittle consumed that 2017’s North American Dessert of the year made its return, Chef Thickstun’s boozy Bananas Foster just as remarkable this time around with two Almond Cakes soaked in Rum propping up cubes of Bruleed Fruit beneath slowly melting Sorbet that tastes exactly like toasted Coconut.
At this point perfectly contented yet simultaneously excited to try more it was in an unexpected turn that course four saw Athena deliver her newest creation, the cool grey skies outside apparently in need of a splash of color that she was happy to provide in the form of bite-sized “Candy Apples” amidst piping hot Mexican Donuts, housemade Caramel Corn and Cinnamon Ice Cream nuggets protected from melting by rainbow Sprinkles.
Opting for two additional shots of Espresso to finish, Chef Church’s signature Cheesecake Trio best left for another time, it was much like the week before Thanksgiving that the night ended with Crème Brulee, the flavor of Maple Syrup this time seeming a little more prominent as the base upon which guests are treated to emulsified drops of Minus 8 Vinegar, Pomegranate Arils and bitter-sweet Cranberry Sorbet.
FIVE STARS: While most are aware that Chef John Church has essentially reinvented Aureole Las Vegas and reestablished the Restaurant as one of Sin City’s top five places for dinner fewer are familiar with Chef Athena Thickstun, though if she continues at her current pace it seems fairly certain that will not be the case for long.
RECOMMENDED: Coconut Bananas Foster, Blood Orange “Creamsicle” Parfait, Bourbon Maple Brown Butter Crème Brulee.
AVOID: N/A.
TIP: More changes coming to both sides of the menu soon.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Roasted Ora King Salmon – Charred Onion, Baby Chard, Warm Citrus Vinaigrette
2012 Frederick William Syrah
Beef Tasting – A5 Kagoshima Wagyu, Rib Eye, 35-day Dry Aged Strip, Honey Roasted Carrots, Beets, Hen of the Woods Mushroom, Pommes Puree, Perigord Black Truffles
2014 Dashe Late Harvest Zinfandel
Candy Bar – Milk Chocolate Ganache, Peanut Butter Mousse, White Chocolate Cream, Peanut Butter Ice Cream
Mango Panna Cotta – Lemon Sorbet, Confit Persimmon
Brown Butter Apple Pie – Caramel, Crème Fraiche Ice Cream
Double Espresso – Ice
Located at the far south end of what most people consider “The Strip,” a concealed attachment to Mandalay Bay, lofty price point and lack of gambling making it the sort of hotel inhabited by mostly well-heeled jetsetters, it seems safe to say that Four Seasons Las Vegas is not a place most tourists will seek out, yet for over a decade Charlie Palmer Steak has stood its ground despite no lack of nearby competition.
Styled as a classic American Steakhouse and one of five for the restaurateur behind Aureole, a location directly off the lobby and next to Veranda placing the deceptively intimate room in prime position for those arriving via Four Seasons valet or the Mandalay Bay staircase, it is immediately upon approach that guests are greeted by a hostess at the podium, her subtle manner of dress and waiters in suits a far cry from the short skirts and jeans worn elsewhere and largely mirrored by diners.
Elegant without being ‘stuffy,’ subdued lighting and linens mixed with leather, wood and patterned carpets creating a refined ambiance that is unfortunately subverted by overly loud pop-tunes and the gleam of sports television at the bar, it was shortly after seating at a rounded booth that a man approached offering Cocktails, the list of top-shelf classics enticing but set aside in favor of the Sommelier-suggested Wine Pairing.
Probably best-known by ‘foodies’ for the “Cut of the Week” Tasting menu, a three-course Prix-fixe that changes weekly and offers Salad, Beef, Sides, Wine and Dessert for just $58 per person, it was after perusing options that the decision was instead made to give the kitchen carte-blanche, Chefs Eduardo Lalo Saavedra and Tomas Espino rolling out a nine-course Dinner over the course of 130 minutes.
Not the sort of place for tableside theatrics or imaginative reinterpretation, Charlie Palmer’s self-designated “Progressive American” cuisine instead focused on pristine ingredients treated with respect to yield great flavor, it was with a glass of Rose that house-baked Bread arrived prior to course one, the small cubes of Cornbread sweet, crumbly and addictive while others were soft and fluffy, the arrival of Chef-selected Sashimi unfortunately leaving little time to enjoy the sparkling Val de Mer as drapes of Yellowtail and Hamachi dressed lightly with Soy paired far better with a semi-sweet Riesling.
Making short work of the six slices of Fish with Chopsticks and finishing the Wine sip-for-bite, the pours requested as half-normal volume given limited tolerance, it was with golden 2015 Kracher Beerenauslese coating the palate that Chef Saavedra’s Torchon of Foie Gras was spread on buttered Toast, the classic pairing expectedly working well as did White Grenache with Short Rib Ravioli, though the texture of the filling was a little dry and may have been better were the Meat shredded.
Progressing a little too quickly, the presentation of a Bibb Lettuce Salad with Beer that was declined in favor of unpleasantly sour Sauvignon Blanc providing an opportunity to slow the kitchen down by cutting Greens at a leisurely pace, it was shortly after the last bits of smoky Bacon were forked up that a generous slice of Ora King Salmon was joined by 2016 Talley Chardonnay, the smooth citrusy profile playing exceptionally well off the flaky Fish and also quite nicely off wilted Chard dressed in vibrant Vinaigrette.
Marking the final savory course with a serrated blade and Syrah, an off-menu array of Charlie Palmer Steak’s Prime USDA Beef accompanied by two ounces of A5 Kagoshima Wagyu plus Root Vegetables, Mushrooms and Truffles one of the most beautiful and delicious Steak presentations in recent memory, it was as Coffee was offered that the Sommelier presented 2014 Dashe Late Harvest Zinfandel, the thick Purple Wine from Sonoma County creating a sort of Peanut Butter and Jelly combination with Charlie Palmer’s “Candy Bar” though perhaps a bit too heavy for the Mango Panna Cotta that is virtually weightless but texturally pleasing in support of Sorbet and cooked Persimmon.
Unable to pass-up Apple Pie, the ten-minute baking time welcomed as Coffee was sipped at the end of a fairly heavy and fast meal, it should probably be unsurprising that Charlie Palmer Steak’s version of the American classic is a beautiful rendition given the quality of his produce, but the true star of the show is actually the tangy Crème Fraiche Ice Cream that makes a fine dance partner for Brown Butter Streusel and Caramel.
FOUR STARS: Easily seen as just another ‘me too’ Steakhouse in a city where every hotel has to have one, but in reality the sort of contemporary American restaurant where great ingredients are showcased in a manner that is accessible to a wide variety of customers at a price that is far more accessible than many, Charlie Palmer Steak has withstood the test of time for good reason and with Chef Saavedra at the helm there is no reason to think that is going to change anytime soon.
RECOMMENDED: Cornbread, Hudson Valley Foie Gras Torchon, Roasted Ora King Salmon, A5 Wagyu, Dry-Aged Strip, Brown Butter Apple Pie
AVOID: Ravioli, sitting near the bar.
TIP: Tasting Menu available on request depending on restaurant volume and Chef’s choice.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Opening the year with no Andre’s at Monte Carlo and Alize shuttered atop The Palms one has to wonder if Chris Bulen saw the writing on the wall when he left the group after transferring from one to the other, but regardless the answer Las Vegas epicures should be excited about what he and Chef Kevin Lopez have planned for 2018, first a catering company and soon the Gastromix Food Truck to which many donated during a GoFundMe event last year.
Described simply as an “Innovative Food Truck,” though the background of two Rochat alums suggests French technique as opposed to Tacos, Burgers or Fair Food, it was on Friday that Chef Lopez graciously offered to cater lunch at work during a particularly laborious period, his arrival in a shiny black Pickup just prior to noon greeted at the door where boxes were unloaded, the scent of Onions immediately permeating the nares and his description of the contents creating an air of anticipation that made one grateful the elevator was already on the ground-floor, thus avoiding any wait to get upstairs.
Certainly not a typical “work lunch,” the bowl of Broccoli and baked Chicken consumed at least a dozen times weekly usually standing in for BJ’s or whatever junk the Pharmaceutical Reps decide is acceptable for the rest of the staff, it was upon opening several Styrofoam clamshells that freshly baked Bread, Sausage and Potatoes as well as Rillettes plus condiments were discovered, the first two still warm and the later room temperature just as it should be.
Familiar with most of the concepts and the Chefs involved, their time spent learning from a local icon no doubt paying dividends and never failing to impress prior, it should come as no surprise to those with similar knowledge that what followed was every bit as delicious while sitting in the office as it was with linen and candles, the finely ground Pork inside a snappy Casing teaming with Herbs and spice while buttery Fingerling Potatoes were almost the same texture whole as they might have been mashed beneath lightly browned Onions.
Enjoying Kevin’s housemade Bread between bites, a future for one of the Sausages on a warm Bun with Onions certainly advisable for the Food Truck, it was with plans of saving some of the entrée for later abandoned that attention shifted over to containers of Pork Rillettes, Pickles and Onions, a provided wooden knife used first to mix and then to spread, the light hint of Mustard doing well to help balance the flavor of creamy fat and finely shredded Meat that was every bit as good as what was served during Chef Bulen’s tenure at Andre’s.
While there can be no argument that Pink Box Doughnuts’ late-2012 opening forever changed the local scene it was in the waning days of 2017 that one realized just how ‘serious’ things have gotten, a Social Media comment about one newly-celebrity-owned competitor rousing threats of a lawsuit based on an opinion that Pink Box still produces the best gourmet fried Dough in town.
Originally opened on West Lake Mead Boulevard and since expanding carefully to Henderson as well as the Strip, a brief stint at local Gas Stations abandoned due to ownership’s desire to provide a fresher product than those sites were able to offer, it was somewhere around 4:00pm on Saturday that a stop was made at the Pink Box location on Eastern Avenue, the spot’s 24-hour schedule once again yielding several freshly made selections served by one young lady while her counterpart was busy frosting some Pink Velvet rounds in back.
Offering tried-and-true classics in addition to the gourmet collection, a focus on incremental improvement over the past five years seeing the release of two highly-successful Emoji Doughnuts in the past 365-days plus the recent addition of something called “American Pie” to a huge lineup, it was with pop-radio tunes playing overhead that options were perused and debated, the eventual selection of a half-dozen proving ever difficult but thankfully yielding two new choices that rank amongst the Doughnuttery’s best recipes yet.
Taking the six-pack elsewhere for indulgence, the upcoming AFC Playoff game soon to get out of hand and more than one cup of Coffee necessary to maintain wakefulness after a hearty lunch, it was into an Old Fashioned still warm-to-touch that teeth sank, the glaze just set and soaked in by about 1/2 centimeter just as it should be while the classic Buttermilk Bar maintained a similar standard beneath Maple Frosting that is slightly less sweet than other places in town.
Moving next to a new type of CroDough, recent tweaks to the recipe yielding a level of lamination now on par with ACE Donuts for The Valley’s best beneath a drizzle of Lemon plus Coconut Flakes, it was with lofty expectations that the American Pie Doughnut was tasted, freshly stewed Apples a big improvement on HFCS Compote while the center features Streusel best described as ‘Crust Butter,” the Birthday Cake to follow admittedly nowhere near as mild but instead just as it should be with fluffy filling, edible Confetti and Golden Oreo segments.
FIVE STARS: Self-focused rather than another me-too, a policy of requesting customer input rather than attempting to mute it yielding better results day-by-day, those looking for a great Doughnut on-Strip, East or West simply need to point their GPS towards Pink Box any time of day or night.
RECOMMENDED: American Pie, CroDough, Buttermilk Bar, Old Fashioned.
AVOID: N/A.
TIP: Online ordering available by phone or Yelp! with delivery options available.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Sides Plate – Creamed Corn, BBQ Baked Beans, Macaroni and Cheese, Coleslaw, Cornbread, White Bread, Butter
Fresh-cut French Fries
Smoked Salmon
Chocolate Cake
Warm Pecan Pie
Rapidly approaching its second anniversary after a hectic 2017 that included damages sustained while catering The Route 91 Harvest Festival it was once again on Saturday that the twenty-five minute drive was made to Big B’s Texas BBQ down in Henderson, Natalia Badzjo and Brian Buechner’s ode to the Lone Star State’s greatest culinary tradition showing even better than ever over the course of nearly three hours while watching the Eagles and Falcons.
Still a hidden gem on St. Rose Parkway just South of Eastern Avenue, the Medical Center’s shadow cast in the opposite direction with sunlight flooding the hand-built wood and brick décor just prior to 1:30pm, it is from about twenty feet that those approaching Big B’s start to get a whiff of the magic taking place inside, the smell of smoldering Oak brought in quarterly from Texas growing stronger by the footstep and the smell of Paprika, Pepper and Garlic overwhelming the senses just past the cusp of the door.
Decorated in all-things Beer, Barbeque and Texas, the cords of wood driven north by Brian and Natalia piled high amidst license plates and flags representing several of the State’s Division-I colleges, it was with country music silenced and game volume turned up that a party of five perused the overhead menu, a pair of three-Meat plates plus an equal number of sides ordered in addition to a Sandwich, two Beers, Iced Tea and Sodas.
Embracing the Southern tradition of simple Dry-Rubs and no fillers, injections or preservatives, the Meats all sourced from good purveyors and smokers running nearly 24/7 to yield enough product for the Restaurant as well as off-site gigs and delivery, it was perhaps ten minutes after taking a seat that four plastic trays arrived, everyone’s eyes wide and mouths watering.
Difficult to miss Big B himself tending to the smoker, Natalia and a team of at least four others helping take orders, prepare sides and bus tables, it was after quickly snapping photos that each guest prepared his or her own divided plate, the decision to start with the Secret Menu’s Loaded BBQ Sandwich eschewing any thought of not getting messy as bites of Tri-Tip, Pork and Hot Links topped in Slaw plus two Sauces saw several pieces fall to a tray below while hand, arm and chin were all equally subject to the cascade of juiciness.
Slowly enjoying the spread throughout the first half of an entertaining game, the youngster in the group once again taken by Pork Ribs that pull straight from the Bone plus Big B’s Fatty Brisket that is now on-par with all but Texas’ very best even with the Bark trimmed away, it was instead the pulled Pork and sizable Beef Ribs that caught the attention of two first-timers, the char on the latter even more robust than in the past while Meat remains moist and full of deep, smoky flavor.
Sampling sides between bites, the Coleslaw not too sour and well-suited in its role as a palate cleaner while Baked Beans in beefy Barbeque Sauce are perhaps the best ever experienced from Texas to Memphis and the Carolinas, it was as a late arrival that Natalia brought out an off-menu special of smoked Salmon to join the feast, each bite flaky and moist but not “fishy” while adding another option in addition to Tri-Tip, Lean Brisket and Turkey for those who wish to indulge in Barbeque while still adhering New Years’ resolutions or a healthier lifestyle.
Liberally applying Big B’s housemsade Barbeque sauce to Meats as well as the hand-cut and fried-to-order French Fries plus warm Cornbread Muffins, the Creamed Corn and Macaroni both going quickly amongst the others and thus sampled sparingly, it was after letting Food digest while sipping Unsweetened Iced Tea and watching Philadelphia pull away that two Desserts were requested, the gooey Pecan Pie and generous slice of Triple Chocolate Cake made for Big B’s by Great Buns Bakery filling in any remaining stomach space guaranteeing a struggle to stay awake through the following Patriots and Titans matchup.
FIVE STARS: Now with even more time on the smoker and finally seeing a good volume of patrons, both as essential to good, fresh Barbecue as the quality of sourcing and spices, Big B’s offers as comprehensive a list of Meats and Sides as any of Texas’ best while also nailing the execution of each in an environment that feels just as authentic and welcoming in Henderson as it would in Austin, San Antonio or Dallas.
AVOID: Not Applicable. Macaroni and Cheese was far better on this visit and warming the Pecan Pie works wonders.
TIP: Offering both catering and delivery it is also worthwhile to note that Big B’s offers Football Specials in a family-friendly setting with the game volume turned up loud, including The Super Bowl on February 4th.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Like most years 2018 will feature no shortage of splashy Las Vegas Restaurant openings, the sort of multi-million dollar spectacles meant to impress some 45 million tourists whose hometown dining may very well be highlighted by Olive Garden or Red Lobster, but on January 3rd down in the Arts District the city received something far more special when native-son James Trees finally opened Esther’s Kitchen.
Described by Chef Trees as a “Seasonal Farm to Table Italian Restaurant” and named in honor of his late great-Aunt, the website detailing her character and connection to the project in addition to James’ own impressive resume including mentorship by several highly-regarded Chefs, Esther’s Kitchen can be located as the lone sign of life after-dark on South Casino Center Boulevard and despite the somewhat stark surroundings it seems locals have been quick to take notice.
Currently open six-nights a week and adding counter-style Lunch service on Tuesday, each day thus far packed from open to close, it was just prior to 7:00pm on Friday night that four diners made good on a reservation for seating at a rounded booth just right of the pass, an open kitchen on full display and Chef Trees sporting a big smile as he stirred Sauces and finished plates while also taking limited down-time to touch tables throughout the evening.
Designed in a rustic-industrial style not dissimilar to the likes of Hog & Hominy in Nashville or even Chef Trees prior employers in El Segundo and Venice, a few knick-knacks lining the wall next to a panoramic photo of the Santa Monica Pier, it was shortly after seating with the likes of Faith No More and Led Zeppelin playing overhead that guests were greeted by a pleasant yet quirky young man more than happy to offer suggestions, the eighth day of service’s only real ‘fault’ being his failure to check back with regularity that more than once led to empty glasses plus one plate being missed twice.
Skipping the “small plates” trend and instead labeling dishes in a more traditional manner including Antipasti, Pasta, Verduras, Pizza and Secondo, each scratch-made on site and many featuring locally sourced Produce, it was in an attempt to cover a wide swath of the menu that a baker’s dozen were ordered in addition to three Cocktails and two Iced Teas, a total of just $58 per person after Tax and Tip leaving everyone very impressed and equally well-sated.
Backed up by Sous Chef Ryan Dimaria and doing a lot of volume for such a small crew, the expediting times thus a little prolonged but certainly not audacious in comparison to other recent openings, it was shortly after placing the order that a Loaf of Housemade Sourdough Bread was presented alongside Cultured Butter and Burrata with Basil Oil, the hearty Crust and open crumb clearly the work of someone who has done their homework whether eaten on its own or toasted alongside finely ground Meatballs resting in a pool of warm Tomato Sauce.
Moving past Antipasti despite several appealing options, the decision to focus on more hearty items this time around largely a result of deferring the order to someone who “just loves carbs” according to Chef Trees, it was with previous share-plates still in place that bowls of Polenta and Risotto from the Vegetables section arrived next, the oft-praised dish of Mushrooms and Truffle Butter reminiscent of Scott Conant’s more pricey version at Scarpetta while the creamy Rice found great balance between Citrus and Garlic with texture dialed up by dehydrated Parsnips.
No doubt lured in by the promise of housemade Pasta, a room specifically designed for its production visible through glass at the end of Esther’s Bar, it was in a series of several difficult decisions that eight choices were trimmed to four and although the forgotten Chitarra would not arrive until nearly an hour later it would be difficult to comfortably say which was “best,” the hollow Bucatini making a strong impression by being served as al dente as they do it in Italy while fresh Rigatoni forms the base of what is without doubt the best Carbonara found to date in Las Vegas.
Not entirely bowled over by Black Lasagnetta, the Fennel unfortunately overwhelming any hint of Truffles even though the Lemon did a marvelous job of accentuating a sizable portion of Shellfish, it was straight from the kitchen’s two-day-old Pizza Oven that Chef Trees’ delivered his Clam Pie featuring Lamb Sausage and a touch of Chili Oil, the Sourdough base bubbling up nicely with a big cornicione and maintaining its structure without being limp or ‘wet’ at the center.
Offering only three Meat entrees, the most intriguing by far a roll of Porchetta made in limited daily portions and offered on a first-come-first-served basis, it was with the same share-plates still in place that crispy skin was sawed at with a butter knife before finally being able to enjoy the spicy Pork, a late arriving plate of Cacio e Pepe actually proving to be a well-placed ‘side’ in the same way Macaroni and Cheese often accompanies Pulled Pork or Barbeque Ribs.
At this point finally refreshing serviceware and reciting three Desserts tableside, an all-in approach clearly the only acceptable way to finish, it was beginning with thin Panna Cotta lined by Basil Oil and Huckleberries that palates were gently transitioned from savory to sweet, the Dark Chocolate Tart and Butterscotch Pudding targeting two entirely different ends of the spectrum with the former boldly bitter but well balanced by its accoutrements while the latter falls somewhere between STRIPSTEAK’s Macallan Butterscotch Pudding and Pizzeria Mozza’s famous Budino in terms of booziness while outperforming both in terms of texture by way of crushed Honeycomb and a dollop of Whipped Cream.
FOUR AND A HALF STARS: What does it take to pour your money, sweat and time into an off-strip restaurant in a city built on multi-million dollar marketing campaigns and implosion economics? Some might say a lack of common sense while other may say a lot of guts, but whatever it is that brought James Trees back to Las Vegas to open Esther’s Kitchen the whole city should be grateful because bite-for-bite and dollar-for-dollar this may be the most heartfelt Restaurant to open in a decade.
AVOID: Aside from a bit too much Fennel on the Lasagnetta there were no noteworthy cooking issues, though the forgotten Pasta, infrequent Beverage refills as well as saucy share plates and a lack of serrated knives spoke of “newness” moreso than any intrinsic flaws.
TIP: As above, lunch service begins 1/16/18 with weekend Brunch soon to follow. All plates made locally by Clay Arts Vegas and reservations available by Opentable.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Always on the lookout for good local Bakeries, particularly ethnic mainstays offering something aside from the typical Cupcake or Brownie, it was admittedly surprising when business downtown led the car past Cake World Bakery, the Panaderia at 220 North Maryland Parkway flying well below Las Vegas’ PR-driven radar despite being located at that same address for the better part of two decades.
Not to be mistaken with the similarly named Cake World on North Tenaya Way, the focus of both spaces on Mexican Pan Dulce and custom-orders but entirely unrelated, Cake World Bakery is owned and operated by Juan Castenada who immigrated from Guanajuato in 1959, the son of a baker eventually picking up the family trade after a couple of career changes and never looking back after opening the single-story blue shop in 2002.
Certainly not a part of town frequented by tourists or even middle-class locals, though the slow gentrification of East Fremont including the likes of nearby PublicUS has created a cultural shift that makes the small Bakery’s barred windows seem a bit overly-cautious in 2018, guests entering Cake World Bakery will immediately find themselves greeted by either Juan or one of his family members, a pair of racks decked out in Pastries separating seating from the kitchen while chillers reside to the right full of Cakes and Beverages.
Far more English-fluent than other Panaderia in town, both the kyphotic woman behind the counter and her coworkers pleasant and accommodating to questions as they boxed several pre-orders including an elaborate Birthday Cake that must have been three feet in length, it was after several minutes indecision that an order was arranged in addition to inquiry about individual slices of Tres Leches, the product unfortunately sold out at 5:30pm but Mr. Castenada more than happy to make one fresh and even show how it was done.
Inexpensive as those familiar with such places might anticipate, six Pan Dulce and the stacked Sponge Cake topped with Cream, Custard, and Condensed Milk tallying just $7, it was at a booth inside the Bakery that items were divided and tasted, the Concha-like Bread flavored by Sugar and Chestnuts starting things off and better than any other found thus far in Las Vegas while Pig-shaped Gingerbread was soft and spongy, though not nearly as spicy as the European equivalent.
Moving next to a Cookie with Sprinkles, the traditionally crispy Galleta de Grajea substituted by moist cake not dissimilar to a Black & White Cookie and all the better for it, those seeking something with a bit more crunch would do well to opt for one of Cake World Bakery’s Elephant Ears covered with caramelized Sugar or the laminated Cream Cheese Danish that tiptoes the line between sweet and savory.
Saving the expected “best for last,” a sizable Empanada chockablock full of Guava Jelly every bit as sweet as anticipated, those looking for an alternative to Drago Sister’s world-class Tres Leches a bit further North will be happy to know that Chef Castenada’s many years in the business have yielded a textbook recipe that arrives soaking-wet while maintaining texturally complexity thanks to smooth Custard between layers of Cake and the addition of chopped Nuts on top of Pastry Cream.
FOUR STARS: Not quite as well stocked as Las Vegas’ other Panaderia, though quality certainly makes up for quantity in most cases, Cake World Bakery is an underregarded gem” hidden” in plain sight to everyone but their longtime customers and a place more non-Hispanics would do well to discover based on the combination of value and taste.
RECOMMENDED: Galleta de Grajea, Oreja, Queso Pan Fino, Guava Empanada, Tres Leches.
AVOID: The Cochito tastes more like Rye with a bit of sweetness than the traditional Gingerbread most are familiar with.
TIP: 7a-8p Monday through Saturday and 10a-5p Sunday, call (702) 471-7111 or visit the store for custom orders.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor
Planting its stakes on South Rainbow Boulevard long before the street’s recent rejuvenation as a dining corridor, the switch from Carmine’s Pizza Kitchen to Russo’s occurring somewhere around the start of this decade, it was after passing by the space several times that the decision was finally made to stop in for lunch on Friday, a recent change in ownership par for the course in a shopping complex that formerly housed Elements and launched four new Restaurants including Meraki in the last twelve months.
Best described as a New York Pizzeria, the checkered tablecloths, decorations including Grapes as well as oil paintings and Rat Pack soundtrack all creating the stereotyped environment of a place in Little Italy, guests entering Russo’s Pizza Kitchen will quickly be struck by the space’s intimate confines, a total of less than a dozen tables spread out in front of an open window and multi-tiered oven.
Unaware of the ownership change until afterwards, a look at the business’ Social Media including a post in October stating “Dear Friends, I am no longer at Russo’s Pizza Kitchen due to unforeseen circumstances that were out of my control. Sincerely, The Russo Family,” it was shortly after seating that a youthful female waitress approached the table with menu and a glass of Ice Water, an order previously arranged based on the website’s menu quickly derailed by the absence of Garlic Knots which led to a quick adjustment with some for now and the rest for later.
Allowing approximately 55 minutes for lunch exclusive of driving time, presumably plenty for a quick-service Restaurant with less than a ten total diners present and limited take-out or delivery volume as judged by the driver only leaving once with just two boxes, it was shortly after the order was placed that two Meatballs swimming in thin Marinara were delivered, the grind good and noticeably including Cheese at a good portion for just $3.95 though it would have admittedly been nice to have a slice of Bread or some Knots for dipping.
Taking an inordinate amount of time to warm two previously made slices, the cause for this audibly heard to be a mistake as the young waitress twice had to tell a white haired man behind the counter “One Cheese, one Pepperoni,” as she offered an extra slice of the latter to a regular guest gratis, it was nearly twenty minutes after seating that the $4.95 lunch combo arrive, the free Drink passed up as nothing in the aged Coke machine sounded appealing while the slices were warm and decent, though the Cheese was a bit too oily and clearly not high grade as judged by its consistency.
Eating the two slices fairly quickly, the serving temperature not so hot as to require any sort of cooling to avoid burning one’s mouth even though the thin crust did pick up a light bit of char, it was nearly ten minutes later that the waitress stated “Zeppoli will be ready in just a few minutes,” an actual total of seven seeing several varying sizes of fried Dough presented beneath a pile of powdered sugar with two bottled Sauces, the larger pieces nice and fluffy but the smaller ones bit too chewy and neither the portion nor the quality worth $8.95.
At this point pressed for time, the rest of the order ready and waiting, it was approaching the counter with a coupon that the situation suddenly turned from average to subpar, the waitress unaware of how to enter the order appropriately and thus provoking a lengthy call to an off-site owner who would not give her a password to adjust the price for unknown reasons, the Credit Card eventually dialed in by one of those old-school scanners (that the server dropped onto an exposed Pizza) and to-go items handed over, the luke-warm Calzone decent but compromised by watery Ham slices that made the Ricotta runny and messy while the Cheesecake actually turned out to be a highlight, the use of a bit of Gelatin rendering the texture smooth and creamy while sweetness was graciously restrained.
TWO AND A HALF STARS: Uncertain regarding the quality previously, though it would seem likely that service and billing issues were better under prior ownership, Russo’s Pizza Kitchen is a decent choice for those in the area, though considering the diversity of Las Vegas’ Pizza scene in general there are plenty of better options both nearby and throughout town.
RECOMMENDED: Meatballs, Cheesecake.
AVOID: Zeppoli, Calzone (might be better dine-in, or with added Pepperoni)
TIP: New ownership is clearly trying to make a go of it as Lunch specials, mailers, Groupons and Restaurant.com coupons are all currently being offered (and, after a while, accepted.)
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Originally opened in early 2016 on top of HeXX Kitchen + Bar with the same ownership and backing from Budweiser, it was exactly 364-days after a Wild Card Weekend visit to Beer Park that reservations were once again booked to watch Football outdoors, the teams different and weather warmer in 2018 but the Food and overall experience just as exceptional as before.
Conceptualized as a year-round Backyard Barbeque and optimized for watching sports on one of over two-dozen Television while drinking a cold one, enjoying innovative twists on iconic American Foods and even playing a variety of party games such as Jenga, it was just prior to 5:30pm that stairs outside the newly designed Alexxa Bar were climbed with greetings quickly offered by two young women, a well-advised reservation soon confirmed and the party of five subsequently led to a picnic table with a good vantage of the Rams and Falcons as well as Hockey and College Basketball.
Now approaching anniversary number two and still doing big volume, the weekend leading up to CES and a flood of New Yorkers in town for the Rangers versus Golden Knights on Sunday creating a particularly lively scene and broad diversity of jerseys and chants, it was just prior to shift-change that seats were taken and Waters poured, a quick perusal of the laminated menu showing several new additions, the decision to order in two rounds proving a wise one as the increased volume saw several items including Beer Park’s Ribs still in the midst of a second batch being made.
Dining with familiar faces of varied preferences, part of Beer Park’s appeal the surprising diversity of a fairly straightforward menu catering to many tastes, it was alongside an enormous pile of crispy Tortilla Chips smothered in Pork, smoked Chiles and refreshing Herb Cream that Beer Park’s signature Mac & Cheese Egg Rolls were presented, the wrappers holding up better this time than last and thus even more appealing compared to the more frequently seen deep-fried iteration while the all-new “Beer Park Pie” dialed up texture and spiciness by combining elements of the other two Appetizers into a dish both Southerners and the occasional Midwest native will find familiar and audacious yet delicious.
Not the sort of place to cut corners, on-site smokers, house-ground Burgers and artisan Sausages forming the backbone of entrees that also include Salads, Sandwiches, Fish and Shrimp, it was mostly in traditional Backyard favorites that appetites were invested, an off-menu “Kids Meal” featuring naked Hot Dog plus Fries pleasing a youngster before the desired half-rack of Ribs was ready, the smoke seemingly not as deep-penetrating as last visit whether as a result of being rushed or the intervening departure of former Pitmaster Eddy.
Again impressed by Beer Park’s housemade Pickles and focus on authenticity, the Wonder Bread beneath Ribs and dishwasher-safe Red Cups amongst many examples, it was just prior to halftime and in the middle of an intense game of “Chairs” that three Sandwiches arrived, the Nacho and Guacamole Burgers similar though the first placed Tortilla Chips and housemade Cheese Sauce atop the finely-ground Patty while Beer Park’s smoked Meatloaf Sandwich proved not for the faint of heart…or delicate in taste buds…thanks to scorching Jalapeno Slaw that required a bit of extra Barbeque Sauce, Pickles and Water refill to help cool off.
FOUR STARS: America’s longtime epicenter for televised athletics and now the proud owner of an NHL Franchise, Las Vegas’ position as a major US City in addition to its “destination” status now an immutable fact, there nonetheless remains a lack of family-friendly venues to watch the game while dining in Sin City, though in the Strip’s typical fashion Beer Park makes no mistake by going all-in.
RECOMMENDED: Beer Park Pie, Mac & Cheese Eggrolls, Smoked Meatloaf Sandwich, Guacamole Burger.
AVOID: Those who don’t like a lot of heat should steer clear of anything topped in Jalapenos most of the time, but especially at Beer Park as the fresh Peppers are liberally applied when listed…also, still no Desserts. : (
TIP: Although reservations are advised during big games they are not required, particularly for those who just want to grab a Beer and sit or stand at the Bar, though “The Big Game” (IE. Superbowl) will be a specially-priced event.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor
With two locations in Las Vegas, one in the Venetian/Palazzo complex and another at recently-rejuvenated Tivoli Village, Waffle Bar promises to deliver Liege Waffles and Crepes to an City where such things are slowly gaining traction, a sizable off-Strip crowd on Saturday admittedly a surprise as the Restaurant was found 3/4-full just past ten in the morning.
Visited entirely as the result of a Holiday Groupon Gift Certificate, the competing dining options either previously visited or otherwise of little interest, it was immediately upon entering the tightly packed space just a few yards from Brio that guests were greeted by a middle-aged man conveniently gathering menus for the hostess stand, a two-top near the window soon filled as iHeartRadio tunes chimed overhead and College Basketball played on Television.
Most certainly another eatery prior, par for the course at Tivoli where little save for Echo & Rig, Brio or Leoné Café has managed to sustain any test of time, it was shortly after seating that Water was poured and an order was placed, the volume level moderate save for a particularly loud pair of friends plus a couple and their fussy infant.
A pleasant enough place, walls including quotes from the likes of Lady Gaga surrounding an L-Shaped floorplan that extends to an outdoor patio during warmer months, it was no more than fifteen minutes before two entrees emerged from the kitchen, the question as to whether Maple Syrup was real never answered save for “I’m not sure, I’ll go find out” though a taste suggested no.
Thankful that the real stuff out of Vermont had been brought from home, a taste of the Waffle before topping medium-crispy and slightly sweet but lacking the smooth caramelization of those found in Belgium or nearby at Andres or the Waffle Love truck, it was after a slathering of Butter and pour of Syrup that the Chicken and Waffles was compared to so many others, the Waffle itself standing up to the test but Tenders no better than store-bought with dried out Meat and flavorless Breading.
A bit confused by the “seasoned Potatoes,” for all intents and purposes flaccid French Fries cut into thirds and pan-fried with Herbs, it was by way of a bit of Ketchup that the Spuds achieved mostly edible status, a shift from savory finding the “Cinna-bomb” Waffle expectedly sweet thanks to Cinnamon Butter, Cream Cheese Frosting plus a spray of Reddi-Wip-esque topping.
TWO AND A HALF STARS: Probably best judged as an alternative to the ever-popular Leoné Café, the price-point similar and both offering Coffee, Waffles and Crepes at Tivoli Village, Waffle Bar offers good service and pleasant environs for those at the Shopping Center while unfortunately lacking the ingredient quality or kitchen skills to make anything about the food memorable.
RECOMMENDED: Waffles are fine.
AVOID: Chicken Tenders, Whipped Cream, Artificial Maple Syrup.
TIP: For those still interested, Groupon offers $20 of Food for $10 vouchers while Social Media Check-in scores $10 off orders over $30.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Per Google, the Galette des Rois is a Cake traditionally shared on January 6th in celebration of the arrival of the Three Wise Men in Bethlehem, but on 1/6/2018 the “sharing” part was ignored as Jonathan Pluvinet’s ground Almond King Cake was consumed for Breakfast, after lunch and post-dinner, the shattering layers of Puff Pastry and lightly-sweetened Filling not dissimilar to Rosallie’s reference-quality Almond Croissant, though the requirement is apparently now to make one next year as consuming the whole thing guaranteed finding the fève hidden inside.
