Although Banh Khot is lesser-known than the traditional Vietnamese Crispy Pancake called Bánh Xèo there is one place in Orange County where the dish from Vung Tau is everything for a husband and wife team preparing his mother’s own unique recipe.
Built out of job losses during the pandemic, first a pop up but now brick-and-mortar at 10032 McFadden Avenue, Banh Khot Lady serves up orders of custardy Shrimp Pancakes in varying quantities with or without Pork.
Now operated by Tony Dang and Anh Ngo, though Xi Phan’s recipe incorporating Turmeric Powder and the proper pan makes all the difference, guests are invited to sit inside and out while wrapping steaming hot morsels inside crisp Greens with Pickles and a splash of Fish Sauce.
Far more refined than the version at Brodard, think Takoyaki filling inside the base of Pastel de Nata, five pieces for $10.49 undersells just how good a “do one thing and do it well” concept this is and for larger groups fifty for $73.39 with no tax for those paying with cash is an absolute steal.
Part of Garden Grove since 1982 Phở 79 is considered by many to be the best bowl of Vietnamese Beef Soup in America, and from 7am to 9pm Wednesday through Monday guests line up at the Hazard Avenue space recognized with James Beard America’s Classics honors.
Opened by Thọ and Liễu Trần as a Cash Only establishment with no reservations, and a Michelin Bib Gourmand recipient since 2021, it is amidst minimally adorned yellow walls that a mostly Vietnamese crowd partakes in big bowls of Soup ranging $12.75 to $17.50 featuring everything from cooked Tenderloin to Tendons, Meatballs, and Tripe.
Served while instrumental versions of songs like “Rocky Mountain High” play overhead, the waiter clad in an Iron Maiden T-Shirt, Phở 79’s kitchen is particularly fast paced and from the moment steaming bowls arrive full of robust brown Broth most conversations come to a standstill.
Opting for four medium Bowls, the Bun Rieu also excellent with an ample amount of Crab and Shrimp, there’s no doubt Pho steals the spotlight whether one selects lean Chicken Breast or funky Pho Bo Vien Gan Sach that finds offal beautifully balanced by Anise and Fennel that dissipates to a mellow Cardamom finish.
Pignoli – Penne Pasta, Free Range Chicken, Broccoli, Sun dried Tomato, Pine Nuts, Modo Mio Sauce
Shrimp Scampi – Prawns sautéed in White Wine, Lemon, Garlic, Grilled Tomato, Arugula, Spaghetti
Osso Bucco – Veal Shank Braised in Red Wine Reduction, Saffron Risotto
Tiramisu – Ladyfinger Cookies soaked in Espresso, Kahlua, Mascarpone Cream
Lemon Cheesecake – Lemon Ricotta Cheesecake, Graham Cracker Crust
Spumoni – Chocolate Gelato, Cherry Gelato, Pistachio Gelato, Chocolate Shell
Espresso
Part of the Crystal Cove Promenade Modo Mio Rustic Italian Kitchen has gained popularity amongst locals for health-conscious Northern Italian cuisine made without the use of Butter or Cream, owner Gian Franco Bertolino having unfortunately failed the same concept in Pacific Palisades.
Attended for a post-engagement dinner with fifteen guests, a lingering party delaying entry for several minutes, it was at a long table in the window that the party was seated to complimentary Bread and Mushrooms presented by an affable staff.
Crowded but inviting, the sort of place it seems Real Housewives might dine at lunch, Appetizers and Entrees tread fairly basic terrain though prices seem quite fair for things like jumbo Shrimp Scampi or Lasagna featuring Housemade Pasta and convincing Bolognese Sauce.
Less impressed by Short Rib Ragout, a lack of complexity despite tender Beef and the reported us of Burgundy Wine, better bites come from Penne with Chicken and Broccoli in Tomato-tinged Pesto plus Saturday-only Osso Bucco over creamy Risotto.
Not offered a Dessert menu, the attendees of honor instead given three sweets on a platter that was passed around, none were particularly impressive though the Ricotta Cheesecake did match well to the remaining sips of a modernized Bees Knees.
Serving Orange County from their Santa Ana location since 1972 Hans’ Homemade Ice Cream prides itself on making every flavor on-site, a use of Cream from local dairies imparting good density in classic flavors one is unlikely to find at spots like Wanderlust or Jeni’s.
Unfortunately not offering tastes, arrival just past 1:30pm finding two staff members baking Cookies without any other patrons present, $7.70 yielded two scoops including Butter Pecan with less sweetness than most plus Vanilla Caramel Wafer that adds bits of textural variance to traditional swirl.
Located on Brookhurst in Fountain Valley, the original location part of Bolsa Mini Mall in Westminster, Quán-Mii specializes in Turmeric-spiced Rice Batter Crepes known as Bánh Xèo in a bustling but sparse space frequently found with a line.
A recipe born in the streets, though in Orange County most consider Quán-Mii the best, guests can expect brisk service after a short wait where most patrons order in Vietnamese and plates arrive in less than fifteen minutes.
Awarded as one of the 100 best bites in Orange County, the eponymous Bánh Xèo Dặc Biệt arriving full of Sprouts, Pork, Shrimp and Squid, first bites show-off the light sweetness of Coconut Milk before delivering a complex blend of textures and flavors.
Not forgetting better-than-average Spring Rolls, a side of housemade Sauce igniting the palate, Iced Vietnamese Coffee proves well-suited to cleanse the palate between bites whether one chooses to indulge with a fork and knife or to roll the Crepe and its fillings into soaked Rice Paper with included Herbs and Vegetables.
Carne Asada Taco, Al Pastor Taco, Chorizo Taco, Tripa Taco, Suadero Taco
Quesabirria Taco
Begun as a Food Truck, but now brick-and-mortar with four locations in Santa Ana, Tacos Y Birria “El Guero” has been offering a taste of Michoacán in Southern California since 2002.
Owned by Rosalba Flores and Auden Lucarero, their location on West Edinger Avenue frequently sold out of signature Birria de Chivo by noon, guests line up in a space nearly exclusively operating in Spanish where counter-orders are followed by a brief wait with trays called out by number.
Priced appropriately for Orang County, $3-$4 per Taco, options include juicy Suadero or crisp Tripe loaded onto double Corn Tortillas, though the best bites come from fragrant Al Pastor and soaked Goat Meat sandwiched by melted Cheese.
Referencing New York roots, but born out of LA, Fat Sal’s offers outlandish Sandwiches, Shakes and Fries in a casual environment now slowly expanding to Sin City and additional major metropolitan areas.
Owned by friends Josh Stone and Sal Capek, with financial backing by Jerry Ferrara of HBO’s “Entourage” since 2010, the group’s first Las Vegas location recently debuted on Fremont in the midst of all the madness near the East end.
Debuted on 9/11/24, a soft-opening preceding, it is inside a shared space with rap blasting that guests are invited to choose overstuffed Shakes, Fries and overstuffed Sandwiches ranging from an $18 Fat Sal to the $99.99 Big Fat Fatty featuring thirty inches of Burgers, Steak, Pastrami, Bacon and more.
Open daily at 11:30am, till midnight on weekdays and 2:00am on weekends, service is friendly albeit new and Food comes out hot whether it be a Pizza Burger on its Potato Bun or the exceptional riff on a Bahn Mi using Ribeye with Onion Rings.
Less impressed by fried Potatoes, mostly limp even in areas not buried by toppings, fans of “Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives” may consider The Fat Jerry before ending their meal with a thick Milkshake or Fat Cookie that stuffs Chocolate Chip Dough with Red Velvet and Cream Cheese Frosting.
Risen like a phoenix from the ashes of Ramir Bolanos DeCastro’s beloved Purple Potato it is as a Bakery that the former Yonaka Chef’s legacy continues to grow via Donuts, Cookies, Ube-based treats and Filipino Pastries.
Previously offered for delivery or takeout only, but now brick and mortar at 6370 W Flamingo Rd #20, it was Tuesday that fifteen items were procured for tasting and shared by a group during workhours.
Never actually gone from the local food scene, the rebranding of Yonaka and Purple Potato followed by a consulting gig at McCarran, Chef DeCastro’s current lineup continues with Croissant, Ring and Polvoron Bismarck Donuts, this day featuring a dozen varieties ranging from Pistachio to Butterscotch and several styles featuring Flan.
Also bringing back the Ube Coconut Cashew Brioche for cooler weather, plus new items for each holiday, fans of Cake will be delighted to know Ramir recently added Ube Basque Cheesecake as well as a version topped with Berries.
The only place in town for Ensaymada, traditional Cheese or Ube Cream, additional specials such as the Tres Leches Cake and Cookies sell out early for good reason even though the Buko Pie remains Purple Potato’s best item.
Anyone familiar with dining in Las Vegas will know the name Marc Sgrizzi, his original location giving way to Pizzerias followed by a Trattoria and even a hotel venture prior to a new eponymous venture located on South Rainbow.
Self-taught, with over four decades of experience, Sgrizzi Ristorante & Bar promotes itself as a traditional Italian eatery while an attached market offers everything from import specialty goods to handmade Pasta and Desserts from Pastry Chef Roman Ritz.
Open for Dinner Tuesday through Sunday, the recent addition of Sunday Brunch from 9am to 2pm perfect for NFL football at the bar, it was on a Thursday prior to noon that a collection of Pastries were enjoyed and whether one selects better-than-average Cornetti or impressive Pan Suisse the real star are Sfogliatelle with faultless layers and lemony filling nearly as good as those in Naples.
Basil Beef – Green Bean, Onion, Bell Pepper, Basil
Cashew Chicken – Onion, Green Onion, Bell Pepper, Dried Chili, Cashew Nut
Beef Pad Se Ew – Wide Rice Noodle, Broccoli, Egg, Soy Sauce
Shrimp Pad Thai – Rice Noodle, Bean Sprout, Green Onion, Egg, Peanut, Sweet & Sour Tamarind Sauce
Sticky Rice with Mango – Strawberry, Coconut Milk, Peanut
A longtime resident of Sun West Promenade Surang’s Thai Kitchen changed hands in Autumn 2023, the new name “Mama Surang Thai Kitchen” paying homage to its founders while cookery is now in the hands of a native of Thailand who worked with Alex Stratta and Guy Savoy.
Now back from their homeland after the pandemic, a husband and wife team with their children frequently helping out around the Restaurant, Mama Surang Thai Kitchen is found on Fort Apache between Hacienda and Russel with minimal signage but a welcoming atmosphere.
Far from lavish, minimal décor and a few tables filled by locals, Surang’s menu focuses on traditional Thai flavors with just a hint of fusion utilized to accentuate flavor without compromising high quality Ingredients.
Cooked to order in a small kitchen, take-out occasionally delaying service, guests are invited to begin with Iced Coffee or Thai Tea with Cream plus appetizers such as fresh Spring Rolls filled with crunchy Vegetables, Thai Beef Jerky or traditional Chicken Satay
Intended such that “every plate serves an experience,” a bowl of Tom Kha richer than that of Lotus of Siam or Weera, Surang’s Silver Noodle Salad at spice “Level 5” finds diverse textures accentuated by acid while fried Spinach is oilless and light.
Next offered “Crispy Fish Delight,” Flouder flash fried and teaming with Red Peppers amidst Beans with sharp notes of Ginger, Surang’s “Entrees” offer good depth of flavor whether Cashew Chicken or Basil Beef.
Making several styles of Curry each day, Chef’s suggestion of Panang with spoon-tender Brisket an absolute delight in terms of taste and texture, Yellow comes across a little flat by comparison while Pad Thai executes well without reinventing the wheel.
Impressing with Pad Se Ew, ribbons of Rice slicked in Soy with Beef and Broccoli, Tableside Wagyu Crab Khao Soi is a $35 “Chef Special” bargain while Dessert stays traditional featuring faultless Sticky Rice and a ripe Mango out of Mexico.
Located in the shadow of Southern Hills Hospital Leafs and Grounds opened at the end of 2022, their popularity slowly growing by word of mouth attesting to Sin City’s best Scones and a locally grown feel that taps into Pacific Northwest Coffee culture.
A novelty in Las Vegas, the shop slowing things down compared to Dutch Bros or Starbucks and doing things their own way without a slew of influencers, guests arriving Tuesday through Sunday from 6am until 3pm will find a family owned spot with plenty of room to linger, work, and read.
Using Lavazza for a variety of Lattes and specialty Coffees, a proper grinder and Espresso machine attesting to doing things the right way, Pastries are made on-site by the Mother and children with a duo of Empanadas fully loaded beneath a golden shell while Danishes are so flaky that a fork and plate are mandatory.
Onward to Scones, flavors announced daily on Instagram, suffice it to say these aren’t the typical British rounds in need of Clotted Cream or Jam, but rather something like a layered Southern Biscuit loaded with Butter and complex flavors ranging from Maple Pumpkin to Vanilla Chai.
The Original Prince – Original Pizza Sauce, Shredded Mozzarella
Now with eleven locations and a twelfth coming soon Prince Street Pizza debuted in 2012, the New York outpost still standing where the Morano family first started slinging slices including their now-famous Spicy Spring.
Known for Neapolitan wedges and Sicilian “SoHo” Squares, the latter praised by many as amongst the best in Manhattan, it was late 2023 that Spring Street opened as part of Durango Casino’s “Eat Your Heart Out” food court with lines present ever since.
Available whole or by the Slice, prices ranging $4.95 to $6.50 each well above the average for a location so far from the Strip, it was after a brief wait that fifteen slices were loaded into a branded box and eaten warm so that quality wouldn’t be compromised beyond time on the rack.
Reportedly using “a water filtration process that replicates the water used in New York” to improve consistency, a dubious claim to anyone who understands science and the difference in humidity between Sin City and the East Coast, Spring Street’s Crust suffers from a lack of leavening and underdeveloped flavors covered up by housemade Sauce.
Starting with Spicy Spring, a dish that earns its name with fiery Fra Diavolo Sauce and thick-cut Pepperoni, the Morano’s Marinara unfortunately trends a bit too sweet in the case of Meat Lovers while The Original Prince compares favorably to other mid-level Pizzerias that get a lot less praise.
Despite signage suggesting Summer House Santa Monica the location inside Durango Casino & Resort is actually Lettuce Entertain You’s first branch of the “California-inspired Restaurant” out west, and regardless of what might be inside the Cookie Bar out front is a sight for sore eyes.
Taking a Spago-esque approach to Market-fresh fare, think Pizzas and Pastas plus plates from an all-wood grill, it is for roughly $5-6 each that guests will find a dozen or more daily baked good including everything from classic Chocolate Chip with big dark chunks to Rice Crispy Treats with or without bits of Oreo in the mix.
A natural feeling space bathed in light, Rockwell Group taking on LEYE’s first off-Strip venture, guests not fond of Cocoa will find “Birthday Cake” far outpacing crumbl’s famous Frosted Cookie while both glazed Lemon and Peanut Butter eat soft and chewy within a gently crisp rim.
Recently impressing with an Oatmeal Scotchie, think crispy but sweet with just a bit of flex, Summer House’s Apple Oatmeal Cookie reminisces of Autumn Apple Crisp in portable form while the “Cookie in a Cup” offers bite-sized bits of the whole collection.
Chocolate Mojito – Chocolate Chip Cookies, Andes Mint, Chocolate Drizzle
A one time a Cannery West kiosk now turned online business The Cookie Bar continues to march on, Wendy Baumgartner’s passion for baking undeterred by the pandemic and her current collection full of more kitschy yet delicious creations than ever.
Available via online apps, Food Truck or at Special Events, the options easily customized online, Thursday featured nineteen options delivered to the office with individual packaging quickly discarded and a bag of buttered-sweet Booze Munch quickly gone in a few handfuls.
Featuring both virgin and kicked-up riffs on classic American confections, Big Ohh adding granulated Sugar to the top of an Oatmeal Raisin Cookie for texture, both ”Kitchen Sink” cubes deliver about 6oz of decadence with a Cookie and Brownie sandwiching Oreos or Reese’s.
Adding Wedding Cake Vodka to Tipsy Velvet and a heart-shaped “Twisted Krispie,” the later a masterpiece thanks to Sea Salt and soft notes of Cocoa, The Cookie Bar’s Sugar Cookies eat like crisp Shortbread with nuance added by Citrus in the case of Limoncello and torched Sugar atop Crème Brulee.
Going classic with Buzz Kill, while Chocolate Mojito’s Mint takes Chocolate Chip in a different direction, “The Nookie” stuffs soft Caramel into a Pecan-studded Chocolate Chip round for just $3 – the same bargain cost charged for “Turnt Up Banana” with a chewy Banana base infused with Rum and topped with Vodka Buttercream Frosting.
As homegrown (or perhaps homebrewed) as it gets, both a Cinna-Doodle and Monster Brownie new and decadent, the Baumgartner’s Cookie Bar should be on any the short list for anyone with a sweet-tooth and all the more so for those looking to support local businesses.
Born from the memories of Mama Ninfa’s Tex Mex the first El Tiempo Cantina on Richmond avenue opened in 1998, Ninfa’s son Roland Laurenzo and his own son Domenic having since expanded to twelve locations plus a thriving catering business.
Now with more than sixty years of experience defining Tex Mex cuisine, the space on Navigation Boulevard amongst the largest and most popular, it is inside that guests will find lively music playing amidst family photos, stained glass, wood and brick.
Offering an expansive menu, their Fajitas legendary across Texas, El Tiempo makes both Corn Tortillas as well as Chips on-site and although filling up on either would be easy a tableside presentation of stretchy Cheese with or without spicy Chorizo should not be ignored.
Visited solo at noon, Margaritas ignored this time around, instead of investing all remaining space in a sizzling plate of Fajitas the “Las Vegas Plate” instead delivered juicy Chicken Breast with Peppers and Onions alongside a hard-shell Beef Taco, sauced Enchiladas, Beans and Rice.
Serving Houston since 1956 The Original Kolache Shoppe stakes its claim as “the birthplace of the Houston Kolache industry,” and under third-generation leadership from Kevin Dowd the small space in Bellfort continues to churn out fresh-baked Czech Pastries daily.
Fitted with limited parking and less indoor seating, a friendly staff taking orders then bagging goods and ringing-up guests seamlessly, it is at fair prices that most emerge with at least two yeasty Buns and Coffee from Zeppelin, though a jumbo Cinnamon Roll and Cookies are also offered.
Scratch made with nearly seven decades of experience it comes as no surprise The Original Kolache Shoppe nails the basics, dough carefully proofed and baked golden brown whether wrapped around Pork and Cheddar or supporting a puddle of Fruit in Cream Cheese.
Located in the former Vietnam Town section of Houston, now dubbed ‘Eado,’ Koffeteria from Chef Vanarin Kuch suggests it’s pastry to be influenced by the diversity of downtown even though a gay man born of Cambodian refugees is not likely the first thing most envision when thinking of Texas.
Famous after television appearances on Top Chef, plus success in New York and Chicago, Chef Kuch opened his first stand-alone space in 2019 and since that time accolades have continuously accrued for Pastry tuned to a global palate but fueled by a classic skill set.
Making waves with Hot Cheetos Croissants and Pho Kolache, a JBFA semifinalist nod soon to follow, Labor Day found Koffeteria off to a fast start with several items gone despite the website inexplicably failing to offer online ordering the day prior.
Limited to just three items despite an 8:30am arrival, the “Double Thicc” Cookie earning its name by way of Dark & White Chocolate plus a dash of Salt, fans of Hawaiian Mochi will find Kuch’s version featuring Coconut and Sesame a whole new take while a Mango Sticky Rice Danish defies logic by remaining crisp and flaky despite chewy rice and ripe Fruit at the center.
SFORMATO OF HOUSE-MADE RICOTTA, BLOOMSDALE SPINACH, NUTMEG, CHARD, EGG YOLK
TAGLIOLINI WARMED IN CULTURED BUTTER, SEASONED WITH GULF OYSTER LIQUOR, MIGNONETTE
AGNOLOTTI STUFFED WITH RICOTTA, WARM CREAM, ‘MUSCADINE’ GRAPES
FROZEN DARK CHOCOLATE MOUSSE, MUSHROOM, MAPLE, LEMON ZEST
Although James Beard Foundation Award winner Justin Yu shuttered tasting menu-only Oxheart in 2017 his cooking remains innovative and exciting in its current form at Theodore Rex, named after the Chef’s nephew.
Located just off the highway in a converted building, Houston’s “warehouse district” living up to its name with few signs of activity Sunday evening, it is inside 1302 Nance Street that guests will find exposed brick and minimal adornment surrounding just twenty-eight seats.
“Relaxed fine dining” by design, Chef Frank Hermosilla overseeing an open kitchen that works in silence, Theodore Rex changes its menu frequently with Foo that is aggressive yet accessible and exotic despite its roots in local Ingredients.
Smartly staffed such that Chefs and servers all contribute to an experience best enjoyed at the counter, a 22% autograt assuring fair pay, most diners will begin with Yu’s famous Tomato Toast that spins “pan con tomate” as Butter-soaked Pain de Mie that’s brushed with Garlic and topped with Tomato Fondant plus a Salad of fresh Tomatoes.
Gulf-focused with Asian elements, Sour Sausage spiced like Chorizo balancing Cucumbers and subtle Citrus, Yu’s Ricotta finds itself lightened as crustless Quiche perfumed with Nutmeg atop chlorophyll alongside a creamy Yolk.
Less interested in large-format proteins than small-plates, though Toast-crusted Redfish ordered by a neighbor received raves, T.Rex’s Pastas shine brightly whether long ribbons flavored like dressed Oysters or filled beneath Cream and native Grapes.
Torn as relates to Dessert, a female server allowed to break the tie, fans of rich flavors need look no further than Mousse that eats lighter than expected thanks to flecks of earth and sour on a bed of thick Syrup.
From humble beginnings in the North Market to calculated nationwide expansion Jeni’s will always hold a special place in the heart of this Buckeye, every visit since senior year of college offering something new and delicious and on this sunny Sunday highlighted by Persian Saffron Rosewater juxtaposing a tart Push-Up Pop.
Known for their “Layered” Doughnuts, something along the lines of a Fritter made of Brioche, Parlor Doughnuts has rapidly expanded via a franchising from Evansville Indiana where the original opened in February 2019.
A concept from Darrick Hayden and Josh Tudela, the Heights location debuted late-2023, it is inside a room bathed by natural light that guests will discover fair prices and friendly service atop a menu able to accommodate most dietary restrictions or preferences.
Neither yeast nor cake, the pull-apart Dough more akin to a Croissant, each Parlor Doughnut is a lumpy mound topped by flavors running the gamut from bittersweet Vietnamese Coffee or fragrant Raspberry to sweeter Churros or best-selling French Toast.
