With two locations in Budapest plus something of a mirror in Campbell River Canada Freyja takes its name from an old Norse goddess, and in subtitling itself “- the croissant story” offers an #instagram friendly venue for indulging in laminated Pastries at prices akin to what one might spend in Scandinavian.
All clean-lines and hip service, a bilingual duo behind the counter suggesting boxes cost extra before placing selections in bags, guests can expect to pay roughly $5USD per Viennoiserie whether classic like the sliced Almond Croissant with medium-sweet filling or a tall-and-proud Cruffin matching Berries to whipped White Chocolate.
The sort of place where diners tend to linger over Coffee, an upscale and quiet clientele enjoying pleasant weather on the patio, it is said each Croissant contains 27-layers whether Pistachio-filled or half-dipped in Chocolate and covered with flaked Coconut, though the best item is actually a butter-soaked coil with fragrant Glaze and Pomegranate Arils on top.
Tucked away on Apáczai Csere János without much signage Jacques Liszt features the work of Mihály Juhász, a former attorney who turned to baking in 2012 and has since made a name for himself with Sourdough Loaves and Pastries.
Not near any major tourist destination, a lack of fluency beyond Hungarian expected, those familiar with traditional Pastries will be glad to find Turos Batyu and Tonkoly Szilvalekvaros Papucs each executed well while Viennoiserie such as Chocolate Snails and filled Croissants are just average.
Lightly salted White Chocolate, Pine, Strawberry Granita
Somlói
Petit Four
Currently Budapest’s most awarded Restaurant Stand is a lesson in finesse, from founding-Chef Tamás Széll’s 2016 Bocuse d’Or gold to Sous Chef Bence Dalnoki’s silver in 2022 and bronze in 2023 one will rarely find Food plated so beautifully while flavors are robust yet balanced.
Modern but rooted in tradition, a central kitchen wrapped in glass the starting point for a tasting menu that spans sixteen items from Canapes to Petit Fours, guests are presented with choices from a formal yet friendly staff that proves well-informed and multi-lingual.
Vibrant in atmosphere, Cocktails and a lengthy list of Wines offered, opening bites are delicate works of art ranging from a gold Sunchoke Chip to bite-size Lángos surrounding layered Parsnip Soup.
Proudly Hungarian but technique-focused, the Bread Basket showing off five styles alongside housemade Butter and Liptauer, one need only look at “Cucumber filled with White Asparagus” to understand the kitchen’s talent as each curl comes carefully filled in a spring-scented pool beneath a dainty Tart.
A slow-build served to accommodate the table’s pace, Peas and sparkling Pine Nuts again seeing Asparagus utilized with expertise, Chef Dalnoki’s Foie Gras is a study in taste and texture while his Bocuse-clinching Sterlet Fillet reminisces of something served at Geranium or Jordnær.
Next reinventing tradition with Széll’s version of Gulyás, a ubiquitous dish here focused on each Ingredient, Venison concludes savories with smoke and sweetness before a palate cleansing plate of Strawberry Ice with Mint atop White Chocolate.
Certainly worthy of it’s 2* from Michelin, a third justifiable based on the strength of this seasonal tasting, Dessert offers a choice from which Somlói achieves unprecedented refinement before concluding with five more sweet bites.
Founded by Kugler Henrik in 1858 Gerbeaud is a historic Pastry shop in downtown Budapest, his partnership with Emil Gerbeaud forever changing the face of Hungarian Cukrászda and introducing the country to everything from Cat’s Tongue Cookies to the eponymous Cake.
A grand-Cafe in the truest sense, the Rococo-style ceiling dripping crystal chandeliers amidst wood and marble, it is from friendly servers that Pastries can be ordered and whether one selects Dobos or Esterhazy recipes are classic in taste as well as structure.
Rooted in tradition despite its place as a tourist-destination, English seemingly the primary language spoken by guests, Austro-Hungarian classics continue with decadent Sacher Torte and although the Somlói is on par with most no one should leave without tasting the signature Gerbeaud Szelet merging Walnut Sponge and Apricot Jam with Dark Chocolate.
Esterhazy Torta Macaron, Maxime Macaron (Hazelnut, Salted Caramel), Esme Macaron (Rasperry, Pistachio), Yvette Macaron (Yuzu, Red Currant)
A partnership between Dora “Dodo” Szalai and Peter Vary Chez Dodo Artisan Macarons and Cafe opened late-2014 in downtown Budapest, years of home baking followed by classes in Paris turning a former advertising agency worker into an unlikely shop owner near the Basilica.
Cutely branded with big windows exposing passers-by to the kitchen, Szalai and her team frequently hard at work, the interior of Chez Dodo sees wood and pastel with bright pops of color including Cookies and Entremets behind glass.
Mostly focused on the French Sandwich Cookies, most named and a few embracing Hungarian icons like the Esme or Esterhazy, textures compare favorably to the best in Paris while a toothsome Financier and dipped Madelines also perform well.
DEEP FRIED MANGALITZA PORK CHOP, potato puree, cucumber salad
DUCK BREAST, shiitake mushroom, plum
RABBIT LIVER, savory, rhubarb, elderflower
Located on bustling Október Street Hoppá! Bistro advertises being “where quality, expertise and hospitality meet,” though a visit in early June suggests that the latter is far from true.
Entered just after opening on Thursday, a dour woman confirming reservations but obviously disappointed when inside seating was requested, Hoppá! Bistro’s menu entails modernized Hungarian recipes served at fair prices with seasonal Ingredients.
Bare-beamed and wood with a pig motif, an open bar and kitchen adjacent, it was after several minutes wait that an order was placed with Beverages and complimentary Bread soon to follow.
Requested as a single course, four plates taking nearly fifty minutes for the Chef to prepare despite only seven total guests across three tables, both crispy-skinned Duck and Chicken Paprikash performed well while local Fried Pork was juicy atop Pommes Puree.
Noticing the protracted wait with the car parked at a nearby meter Dessert was requested while smooth Rabbit Liver was spread on Bread, but after thirty-five minutes and the server falsely claiming he quoted a half-hour preparation time the cause was abandoned.
Part of Bratislava’s dining scene since 2009 Spusta Odborarske Namestie features the talents of Dušan Spusta and sons, their collection spanning Slovak history and other Eastern European specialties from Budapest to the Black Forest.
Offering Loaves alongside Choux and Viennoiserie plus Cakes, even a few savories, most guests opt for take-out given limited seating and whether one starts with creamy Veternik Karamel or the Fruit and Chocolate Coko-Mandlovy Kolac results are impressive.
Also making fresh Donuts early, Siska Marhulova showcasing Brioche around Apricot, Spusta’s Esterhazy Torta outperforms the Dobos without crunchy topping while the Schwarzwälder Kirschtorte rivals all but the best in Germany.
Located at Mlynské nivy 6 Soren is a hip Coffee Shop in Bratislava, limited inside seating necessitating most items be taken to go and the small kitchen prone to early sell-outs on weekends or whenever a large party rolls through.
Not specifically Slovak in its offerings, a soft Cinnamon Roll and slightly dry Banana Bread as evidence, better choices include a Blueberry Bun that eats similar to Kolache beneath Streusel or delicate Cottage Cheese Lemon Cake.
Blueberry Choux Donut, White Chocolate, Candied Lemon
Located inside Hotel Sacher Restaurant Rote Bar oozes with history, its all-red interior, oil paintings and crystal chandeliers coupled to formal service and Viennese classics such as Tafelspitz and the eponymous Sacher Torte.
Adjacent Vienna’s State Opera, an open terrace offering views of a gathering pre-show crowd, it is after warm greetings that guests are offered velvet seats and white linens plus a choice of Beverages followed by warm Focaccia.
Served a la carte, modern compositions made from seasonal Ingredients alongside plates with history, it is after a nightly amuse that Appetizers range from Wedding Soup to Asparagus Risotto, though fans of Foie Gras should not overlook the Goose Liver Tarte which pairs beautifully to sweet Riesling.
A leisurely meal intended to be savored, the clientele’s average age eclipsing sixty, Entrees feature tableside service ranging from Sauce poured over Braised Beef to plating Tafelspitz while Sacher’s Wiener Schnitzel arrives perfectly prepared in two cuts large enough to share.
Accompanied by Piano in the damask room after 19h00, the sun slowly setting through tall windows, Dessert includes ideas old and new though the Chocolate Torte with a layer of Apricot justifiably seems to find its way onto every table.
Known for precisely what its name suggests there is no better place to find a variety of Pancakes in Vienna than Heindls Schmarren & Palatschinkenkuchl, a choice of indoor seating or an alleyway buoyed by pleasant service.
Both a Restaurant and Cafe side-by-side, the former also offering plates such as Wiener Schnitzel, guests are invited to order small or large portions of most plates such that a party of three can easily partake in some variety without much going to waste.
Fair priced considering prime real estate, both tradition Kaiserschmarren and the shredded Pancakes with Styrean Apples beautifully executed and served hot, those seeking a showstopper should head straight for Wachau-Style Schneenockerl Pancakes featuring Crepes rolled around Curd Cheese beneath a mountain of Meringue with Vanilla and Apricot Sauce.
With eight locations across Austria it would be difficult to suggest Joseph Brot is anything but successful, the Bakery’s focus on 100% Organic Ingredients predictably commanding premium prices for handcrafted Food combining modern techniques with traditional recipes.
A bit different from store to store, some simply Patisseries while the flagship on Landstraßer Hauptstraße also contains Joseph’s Bistro, it was around 10h00 Wednesday that three guests sat down to enjoy a snack at the location on Kirchengasse.
Frequently Vegan and always handmade, but on this day served by a frankly abrasive man behind the counter, it was from a fairly limited selection that Banana Bread proved fairly basic before moving on to a Carrot Cake Muffin topped with Cream Cheese Frosting.
Not offering Apfelstrudel on this day, instead “Apple Strudel Cake,” flavors ring true from the soft Sponge base to the rustic lattice-work while the area in between is loaded with stewed Fruit, Butter and Cinnamon.
Promising to “secure an average of two square meters of biodynamic soil for the next generation” with every Loaf of Bread Öfferl Dampfbäckerei undoubtedly has a vision, their commitment to local Farmers spelled out in literature and embodied by the use of only biodynamic Grain in every item.
Described as a “community whose common denominator is respect for nature,” the Coffee, Milk and Jam sold on-site all responsibly sourced from Organic farms, guests entering any of Öfferl’s locations will quickly be greeted by the smell of Yeast followed by friendly and knowledgeable service.
Infrequently in the market for Bread when traveling, though Öfferl’s loaves do appear impressive, it was instead six Pastries that were taken elsewhere to enjoy, a Doughnut piped with stewed Raspberries springy and light while the Walnusscroissant is a twice-baked beauty with lightly sugared Cream doing little to compromise skilled lamination.
Blending classics with modernity, Powidlbuchtl akin to a Parker House Roll stuffed with stewed Prunes, Öfferl’s Kipferl eat much like oversized Hungarian Kifli and the day’s Apple Cinnamon Rose Muffin proved an admirable stand-in for sold out Apfelstrudel.
Located at Štúrova 14/8 Fleur Bakery is a quiet space frequented by in-the-know locals for Sandwiches, Roman-Style Pizza and some of the best Viennoiserie outside of France or Austria.
Organic in design with just two tables, the owner found filling shelves at 07h30, it is at prices slightly lower than other capitol cities that guests are invited to partake in beautifully laminated Croissants including one marvel filled with Pistachio and Apricot.
A place with seemingly no bad choices, Pan Suisse rich with Custard and Cocoa just as good as the Pain Au Chocolate with added Nuts, fans of Almond Croissants will find Fleur’s sweetened by Frangipane while Brenton’s Kouign Amann sees layers shatter to the tooth with warm Butter at the center and Pistachio Butter on top.
Domáce bryndzové pirohy so slaninou a kôprom – Bryndza Pierogi with Bacon and Dill
Domáce zemiakové chipsy so syrovým – Homemade Potato Chips with Cheese
Cigáro Knižka na doštičke – Roasted Sausage, Mustard, Horseradish
Erdbeer Kugeln mit süssen Semmelbrosel und mit Butter – Strawberry Potato Dumplings with Butter and Breadcrumbs
Owned by the same team behind Flag Ship Restaurant Slovak Pub is not only one of the largest Bars in Europe but also Bratislava’s most popular place to taste traditional Slovakian fare.
Located on a busy street with a tram at its center, easy access and low prices yielding busy nights full of students drinking locally-made Beer, it is after scaling a staircase that a maze-like interior unfolds with indoor and outdoor spaces converging across several historic rooms.
Lined in paintings of famous Slovaks, heavy woods all around, service speaks limited English but is exceedingly pleasant whether pouring drinks or delivering snacks such as Homemade Potato Chips with Cheese.
Passing on Kofola and Garlic Soup, both locally famous but not fancied by this group, Bryndzové Pirohy come loaded with Cheese and Bacon plus a hint of Dill while thin housemade Sausage and Potato Dumplings stuffed with Strawberries are rustic but nicely prepared.
Offering both sweet and savory Crepes near the more modern part of Bratislava Pán Cakes is recognized by many as the best of is kind, the austere interior suggesting something of a “hipster” ethos matched by service that lacks warmth.
A straight-forward concept offering just Crepes, Waffles and Beverages, the former roughly €3-6 each, it was after perusing the choices that “Iced Coffee” was replaced by an “Iced Americano” as the former is apparently half-Milk plus three rolled-and-plated Pancakes.
Available Gluten and Lactose-free, with a traditional Batter that gets crisp around fluffy insides, housemade Marmalade comes thinly applied while “French Lemon” and a version filled with White Chocolate and Currants are each well-executed.
Shepherd´s Pan – Turkey Breast, Homemade Sausage, Bacon, Roasted Potatoes, Red Onion, Bryndza
Kamzík Plate – Bryndza Pierogis, Potato Gnocchi with Bryndza, Potato Gnocchi with Sauerkraut, Sausage, Bacon, Sour Cream, Chives
Potato Dumpling stuffed with Smoked Meat served on Roasted Sauerkraut with Fried Onions
Potato Gnocchi with Poppy Seeds, Crispy Bread Crumbs, Sugar, Butter
Both hotel and Restaurant Koliba Kamzík can be found in the heart of Bratislava, its interior designed like a country inn while the outside patio overlooks a quiet street as attentive servers offer great care.
Known for traditional plates done the old way, many available a la cart or as a combination plate intended for sharing, beverages include local Beers and Soda plus housemade Lemonade that is assertive without a lot of added sweetness.
A short walk from the nearest parking, tucked amidst shops and boutiques, first-timers are recommended the “Kamzík Plate” featuring local Cheese Dumplings plus two types of Gnocchi while others may wish to simplify with a larger piece of Pasta generously stuffed with Pork beneath fried Onions.
Even more rural with the “Shepherd´s Pan,” Turkey and Pork cooked-up alongside Potatoes plus Onions, Dessert offers similar ideas with different toppings such as Poppy Seeds, Crispy Bread Crumbs, Sugar and Butter.
Known largely as an Ice Cream shop Erdős és Fiai Cukrászda also sells Cakes, Pastries and Coffee with early arrival to the store finding a good selection including classics such as Sacher Torte but also signatures such as the eponymous Erdos Torta and airy Meringues.
Minimally fluent in English, a man in the seating area offering translation of a few items before selections were made, prices trend lower than most whether indulging in fruity Puncstorta or a Layer Cake with sweet Almond Buttercream.
Already known for artisan Breads at the original Pékműhely Bartók has brought head-Baker Józsi’s products to the Danube’s Buda side, and from 07h00 guests can expect to find glistening loaves offered alongside Pastries including the Bakery’s famous Snails.
An old-world concept with windows peering in on ovens, friendly service despite limited English fluency a welcome find in Budapest, Whole Wheat forms the base to crackling Crusts around a bubbly Crumb such that Plum Jam Slippers and traditional Turos Batyu are among the best in town.
An easy-to-miss shop, though the smell of warm Yeast offers a hint at 10 meters, Viennoiserie can be found savory or sweet including spirals filled by Nuts, Cinnamon or Dark Chocolate as good as one will find in Vienna or Paris.
From the team behind Michelin 2* Stand Étterem it is inside Stand25 Bisztró that guests will find a more casual concept, the bustling room on the Buda side of the Danube turning out Hungarian classics served alongside French-Mediterranean ideas.
The result of Szabina Szulló and Tamás Széll’s departure from Onyx in 2017, both the Bistro and Flagship having gone on to surpass their former kitchen in acclaim, Stand25 lays out its menu in familiar format with prices that may seem high for Hungary but that are still a bargain in terms of execution.
Designed as a neighborhood Restaurant, though service feels stiff from hostess to waitstaff, it is upon order that complimentary Bread arrives along Butter and Pork Fat with a second round of Sourdough ideal for soaking up hearty Soups including complex Goulash and French Onion atop a formidable Crouton.
Built in front of an open Kitchen, staff working quietly while preparing Lamb Meatloaf atop creamy Vegetables and vegetarian Stroganoff, “Chicken Stew” in English turns out to be Paprikash in an idealized form while Desserts including Somlói Galuska and Túrógombóc are classics served in an appropriately small size to end a hearty meal.
In a city where Chimney Cakes can be found at standalone shops and kiosks throughout the downtown area the Chimney Cake Shop on Vaci Street proves popular thanks to a location in the middle of Budapest’s shopping corridor and makes good on it with freshly made Cones filled with any number of Ingredients from Fruit to Ice Cream.
Fronted by friendly service, prices a touch higher than othe like shops but still affordable, Pentecost Monday found the Cake light with a delicate crumb while Swirl Soft Serve was par for the course but benefited by Nutella at an added cost.
