Soft Serve Ice Cream with Coffee Caramel and Hazelnuts
Intended as the casual brunch offshoot of Maaemo fans of Seinfeld will catch the reference, Chef Esben Holmboe Bang extending his scope in 2020 with a Restaurant called The Vandelay serving American Food such as Burgers and Avocado Toast in a pink dining room.
Begun as an all-day eatery to rave reviews, a limited menu and high prices doing little to slow demand even now, it is with reservations that guests are invited to sit indoors or outside at small tables tended to by fairly basic service.
Visited just after opening, all seats quickly filled by tourists and business persons alike, Brunch was underway with house-filtered water plus a Cinnamon Roll slightly larger and less decadent than the one from Esben’s 3* flagship 12-hours prior.
Bistro in its offerings, griddled Toast offered with Butter alongside creamy Eggs and a touch of Pepper, The Vandelay’s Sausage arrives with a heterogeneous grind and plenty of snap surrounding juicy Pork.
Not about to miss The Vandelay Burger, well-aged and nicely seared beneath Bacon, Onions, Cheddar and Dill Mayo, one might argue that a Bun besides Brioche is better suited for all the juiciness but it would be hard for anyone to fault crispy salted Fries or a daily Sundae featuring just-churned Vanilla Softeis beneath Hazelnuts and Caramel tinged in Coffee.
With several locations in Oslo the story of Åpent Bakeri begins in 1998, a single location slowly expanding citywide as new neighborhoods develop including the sizable Tjuvholmen shop near Aker Brygge.
Translated as “Open Bakery,” a Sandwich shop and Pizzeria since built under the same umbrella, it was at 08h20 that the store was found open with shelves full of golden Breads plus a few patrons quietly sipping Coffee.
Isolated over the bridge, an upscale are surrounded by shopping and water, diners are invited to select amongst everything from Scones to Viennoiserie, the former full of Fruit and Nuts offering diverse textures while a Raisin Snail was light and flaky.
Primarily produced in a central facility, though servers behave with pride in products, Åpent’s Oatmeal Cookie performs well with good flex and light sweetness in juxtaposition to a Cardamom Bun sweet inside with additional crunchy Sugar all around.
Not about to forget a Cinnamon Bun, soft with an egg-wash and Sugar melted on top, Åpent’s best bites come from the seasonal Rhubarb Cake that is simultaneously sweet, soft, buttery and assertive.
Open 08h00 until 17h00 on weekdays and from 10h00 on weekends Supreme Roastworks’ Aker Brygge location shares space with Porsche, an odd pairing that might be better served if the Cafe had Pastries ready to serve or more than one Barista available shortly after opening.
Focused on “no fuss – just great Coffee,” a philosophy exemplified by Tim Wendelboe, owner Odd-Steinar Tøllefsen is himself a world-champion brewer who focuses on ethically sourced Beans including a beautiful single-origin varietal from Africa that makes formidable Cold Brew.
Not yet receiving outsourced Croissants at 08h15, nor making Coffee Softeis, it was at a cost of NOK 100 that a single Cookie matched the Coffee and made up for its thinness with Peanuts and good flexibility.
Brown butter ice cream cornet, hazelnuts and molasses
Summer Berries, rhubarb root, Goat’s cream
Freshly baked cinnamon buns, Autumn honey and pine fudges
As the only Michelin 3* Restautant in Norway Maaemo carries a banner, “Mother Earth” in Finnish Chef Esben Holmboe Bang serves a menu focused on organic, biodynamic, and raw local ingredients with the end-goal being zero waste but no restrictions in terms of taste or technique.
Found in the Oslobukta neighborhood diners begin and end in the lounge while a high-ceilinged dining room utililzes organic materials and dramatic lighting to draw attention to an open kitchen working in near silence across 15 courses.
Danish by heritage, though Esben’s plates consistently pay homage to Norwegian traditions, it comes as no surprise that Dinner begins with Potato Lompe topped in Cod plus Horseradish before proceeding through bites including Foie Gras, local Cheese and raw Beef topped in Pine Cone Vinegar.
Occasionally giving in to “New Nordic” ideals, though Butter and Fat see Maaemo’s flavors trend more rich than its contemporaries, plates in the dining room began with smoked Vendace Roe perfumed by elderflower that paired beautifully to 2020 Benjamin Leroux Chassagne-Montrachet.
Benefited by faultless service, every staff member executing at the highest level of personal yet professional engagement, Scallops arrived next with tart Fruits preceding Bang’s iconic Flat Oyster with Blue Mussels and Dill that has been a mainstay since 2010.
Pulling back in terms of intensity with a subtle plate of Turnips and Nettles, then serving a recently added slice of Char in a complicated Sauce that vacillates from sweet to savory, the night’s “main course” featured half a roasted Quail with Plums and Sunchokes alongside golden Milk Bread and a decorative spread made from Mushrooms with Garlic.
Cleansing the palate with earthy Consomme, bold but nuanced and a good bridge to Dessert placing Rhubarb amidst florals, it is here that diners return to the lounge for Coffee and sweets including Maaemo’s historic Brown Butter Ice Cream and hot, sticky Cinnamon Buns.
Self-appointed “the “Crème de la Crème” of Norwegian Ice Cream Hennig Olsen’s kiosk at Aker Brygge can frequently be find with a queue, the brand headquartered in Kristiansand reportedly responsible for half of Norway’s Ice Cream production with roots dating to 1924.
A third-generation family company with close-ties to local producers and growers, Dairy all local while Chocolate, Caramel and Jams are made by Hennig Olsen, Softeis is popular with locals and extra creamy while flavors such as Salted Caramel or housemade Almond Brittle come across with big flavor at a fair price.
As traditional a Japanese Ramen-ya as one will find in Scandinavia Koie Ramen’s second location is conveniently located near the Munch museum in Bjørvika, indoor and outside seating allowing guests to enjoy a casual meal in one of Oslo’s most popular areas.
Known for making both Soups and Noodles on-site daily, an open kitchen giving would-be diners a look at the process, Koie utilizes local Ingredients as much as possible while still attempting to remain authentic.
Sparsely decorated with a concise menu, Edamame as one might expect while Gyoza with Chicken eats well inside delicate wrapping, Koie’s Tonkotsu is creamy with medium saltiness while Shoyu is packed with Soy and better allows the texture of Noodles with light chew to share the spotlight.
Across its five outposts Grains Bakeri is considered one of the best places for Breakfast in Oslo, the Frogner location frequently finding folks lingering over Coffee from 08h00 on weekdays and 09h00 on weekends.
Casual but efficient, everything from Pizzas to Crepes offered alongside Viennoiserie made on-site daily, Grains seeks to take “a step back from the fast-paced everyday life” and does so with time honored products formed by hand.
Using mostly organic Ingredients, an Espresso proving competent if not excellent, both Pan Suisse and an Almond Croissant show expert lamination such that the shell shatters and flakes while insides hold up to Chocolate and Custard or ground Nuts, respectively.
Less impressive in terms of a Cinnamon Roll, doughy compared to Godt Brød or Mocca, Grains’ Brownie is thick and rich with just enough sweetness to counter pockets of toasted Walnuts.
Located in Briskeby Mocca was the first micro-roastery in Oslo, and although the Beans are now roasted outside the city at a place called Kaffa both Mocca and sister-spot Java remain great places to start the morning.
Known for select roasts and casual surroundings with pleasant Baristas, a shot from Kenya fragrant with bright acidity, Mocca’s Pastry shows well whether one opts for flaky Pan au Chocolate or a “Flapjack” that American’s might call a Blondie.
Offering inside or outdoor seating from 07h30 on weekdays and 10h00 on weekends, both continuing until 17h00, additional selections include on of Oslo’s softest Cinnamon Rolls or thinly pressed Waffles oversaturated with Honey.
Duck breast with Mexican mole and celery root, salsa matcha
Chili ganache with chocolate tostada and coconut sorbet
Born out of the legacy of Pjoltergeist Chef Atli Mar Yngvasson opened Katla, a space named after an Icelandic volcano that serves a nightly tasting and bar bites focused on flavors from Korea, Thailand and Mexico.
Migrated from a small basement to soaring ceilings and 45 seats, the open kitchen with lots of fire stretched in front of a larger one in back, Katla utilizes mostly local ingredients but bold flavors and family-style service to impart a vibe matched to 80s rock playing a bit too loudly overhead.
Quite the opposite of “New Nordic,” Atli’s cooking more focused on Meat and Salt than Flowers or fermentation, it is with Frozen Margaritas in hand that most guests get started on small bites including August’s Pork Rinds matched to Bacon Aioli and Crab Tostadas complimented by creamy Avocado.
Lighted by lamps and expansive windows, service not particularly friendly but efficient, course three finds Turnips softened by Milk amidst Mussels and Roe while its follow-up of spicy Prawns are good are their own but better atop fluffy freshly steamed Bao.
Loading everything with Umami, quite unlike his Scandinavian contemporaries, Turbot arrives next in a sizable portion flecked with char, each bite picked or sucked from the bone nicely cooked and ready to be eaten on its own or augmented by condiments including Salsa, Peppers or Rice.
Open late at the bar, Pepper Crab a favorite amongst walk-ins choosing to eat a la carte, Katla’s Duck Mole eats every bit as earthy and aromatic as many in Mexico while Dessert of housemade Chips, Coconut Sorbet and piquant Chocolate is as tasty as it is simple.
Fish & Chips – Pommes Frites, Remoulade, Cornichons, Pickled Onion
Croquets with Cod – Rice, Västerbotten Cheese, Grilled Bell Pepper Sauce, Chipotle Mayonnaise
Ceviche – Raw Saithe, Leche de Tigre with Aji Amarillo, Sweet Potato Pureé, Chuclo, Onions, Peppers, Plantains
Part Fish market and part Restaurant, Fiskeriet Youngstorget is one of many similar concepts found throughout Oslo, the fact that nearly everything served is caught locally that day assuring quality one might expect in a city surrounded by water.
Offering a wide selection of fresh Fish and Shellfish by weight, plus a menu that changes with frequency, guests are invited to sit at high tables to slurp Oysters and sip Champagne or to enjoy a Beer with cheesy Fish Casserole or Gratin.
Spanning the globe in terms of influence, Ceviche leaning into Peru complete with Sweet Potatoes and Corn, better choices include Bacalao Arancini served with Peppers or faultless Fish n’ Chips served piping hot with Remoulade or Malt Vinegar to suit one’s preference.
Found in the heart of Oslo My Ugly Baby is a Doughnut and Coffee shop from Jørgen Hansrud, former partner Talor Browne having departed the project before its opening to develop a rival concept called Talormade.
Built on the idea “that imperfection makes things sweeter,” a small storefront in Youngskvartalet opening at 07h45 on weekdays and 11h00 on weekends, guests will find a daily dozen Doughnuts in rotation at prices rangimg NOK 56-59 depending on complexity.
Also offering Bagels and Coffee, all handmade daily, it is amongst neon sprinkles that decisions are made, a Brioche base the starting point for large rings that are fluffy with a hint of Yeast and excellent Frosting clearly made from good Ingredients.
Also with a Vika outpost, the baking done there, additional rings tasted include one filled with mild Strawberry Cheesecake and another sticky with Caramel Popcorn, but for fans of Fritters the Apple version is a work of art that eats slightly greasy with plenty of Fruit and Cinnamon.
Located at Grünersgate 1 in Grünerløkka Tim Wendelboe needs no introduction to Coffee connoisseurs, his win at the World Barista Championship in 2004 cementing a legacy now celebrating over two decades of commitment to sustainable farms and the best Beans available each season.
Helmed by experienced Baristas overseeing a limited menu, no Food just the best Espressos, Lattes and Filters available, Tim Wendelboe seeks to perfect each guest’s experience without pomp or circumstance despite excellent customer service.
Also selling whole beans and equipment at expected prices, Wendelboe’s commitment to Farmers earning a fair living well-known, it was after perusing options that an Espresso and Filter cup were selected, the former big and juicy with a bit of sour at the end while Tatmara Natural from Ethiopia tastes bright yet refined amidst floral notes.
Considered by many to be Oslo’s best Bakery Godt Brød has six locations across the capitol, but for those desiring the freshest Pastries and Rolls the best bet is to visit either the Bislett or Grünerløkka location where everything is made on-site daily.
All Organic from Grains to dairy with an expansive Cafe divided across two distinct areas it is from friendly staff that orders are fulfilled, complimentary water and serviceware found at a station at the center with free Wi-Fi and comfortable seating throughout.
Offering Sandwiches, Salads and more since 1995, though most early risers will be found matching Coffee to a pillowy Kanelbolle, fans of Cream Cheese Danishes will not be disappointed by SommerBolle with or without Fruit while the Brownie is toothsome and rich thanks to three types of Chocolate.
Chicken from Holte, Swiss Chard, Marigold Leaf, Mushroom Puree, Chanterelles
Raspberries, Meadowsweet, White Chocolate, Rose Oil, Caramel Custard
Part Wine bar and part gourmet Restaurant Arakataka has existed in its current form for over a decade, and although staff has changed over time the kitchen continues to challenge itself with bold plates based on local products combined with Nordic sensibilities plus global influences.
Open 16h00 to 22h00 Monday through Saturday, an a la carte menu served alongside the NOK 895 six-course tasting, tiled floors and wood decorate the L-shaped space where bilingual service is unremarkable but friendly enough to get the job done.
Bolstered by a fairly young crowd and extensive Wine list, each table starting with Malted Sourdough tinged in Fennel, Monday night’s amuse consisted of young Broccoli with briny Cream and Horseradish before the requested addition of a luxurious Donut topped in quality Caviar and Cream.
Served as six proper courses, several hiding the Protein such as in the case of Steak Tartare with unripe Strawberries, local Tomatoes were brightened by two types of Currants before proceeding to delicate Custard beneath Mussels and Beans.
All properly cooked, each Ingredient contributing to the whole without excess, Monkfish showed well alongside a package of Zucchini, Nuts and Onions prior to the main course of juicy Chicken alongside bitter and earthy components.
Glass-fronted but currently obscured by construction it was within 90-minutes that a Dessert of Raspberries and White Chocolate was served, the addition of florals and Caramel creating a beautiful composition before diners departed to home, a nearby concert venue or other nightlife.
An unlikely idea for Scandinavia, Layer Cakes including flavors from the American south, it is at Kongens Gate 10 that guests will find a small shop called The Cakery peddling Baked Goods and Coffee from 10h00 to 17h00 Monday through Saturday.
Owned by a Brazilian and a Venezuelan, Pan de Queso but one of a few savory choices, guests can anticipate warm hospitality plus fair prices across roughly nine daily Cakes including Red Velvet less sweet than many plus Carrot topped in tangy Cream Cheese and spectacular Walnut Apricot and Caramel Cake that is as moist as it is complex.
Originally intended to serve country youth in the largest Norwegian cities Oslo’s Kaffistova opened in 1901, and although now something of a tourist hotspot the collection of traditional plates still fairs well.
Open from lunch through dinner daily, a few quick items offered to-go and reservations strongly encouraged, it at the counter that orders are placed before seating with an average wait time of just fifteen minutes even during peak times.
Located on the ground floor of Hotell Bondeheimen, hearty portions at reasonable prices part of Kaffistova’s appeal, look to Fjord Shrimp with or without Crayfish served openface and during the right time of year see Whale Tataki replace Salmon.
Loosely translated as “Coffee Stove,” though Baked Goods are more limited now than in the past, Fried Chicken resembles that served in Austria while ground Reindeer with Mushroom Gravy and moist Apple Cake are traditional and filling.
Expanded to 29 locations since debuting in 2015 Backstube seeks to deliver freshly baked goods at a fair price, and although perhaps not as artisan as other bakeries throughout Europe a broad menu tackles several European traditions with overall decent results.
Visited at Olav Vs Gate 8 in Oslo, early arrival and an ability to self-select items with tongs both assuring several items still-warm, Backstube’s Pastel de Nata falls short of those in Portugal but outpaces many elsewhere thanks to a flaky shell surrounding smooth Custard.
Less impressed by a dry Cinnamon Roll or oblong “Brezel” with rubbery Cheese, though the twist with Vanilla Custard and Nuts is good, Backstube’s Cronut eats more like a laminated Biscuit than Viennoiserie while the “Berlinerflette” with Sesame Seeds and sweet Glaze is yeasty, nuanced and delicious.
With 31 locations throughout Oslo and surrounding cities Baker Hansen is almost always nearby, yet despite its chain-status each Café continues to bake everything on site while offering a wide variety of beverages ranging from freshly squeezed Juice to freely-refillable Coffee.
Visited at Haakon VII Gate 5, a sizable space with friendly service and plenty of seating, it was after perusing options that four items were taken outside to enjoy on streetside seats.
The life’s work of Arnt Hansen, born in Kvikne but trained in Trondheim, recipes have largely remained the same since 1861 and thanks to a seasonal focus and housemade Preserves both the rustic Rhubarb Muffin and soft Cake wrapped in Marzipan with Raspberries fair well.
A master baker who later passed the business to son Haakon, expansion soon to follow, Hansen’s goods have been served to prisoners of war and on polar expeditions though the better bet seems to be enjoying either Kanelbolle, Jubileumsbolle or both in comfort over conversation and a warm beverage.
Highly regarded by local Chefs and traveled gourmands Le Benjamin Bar & Bistro fills an important niche in Oslo thanks to not only its hearty French fare but opening hours inclusive of Sunday from 16h00 to 21h30.
Family owned since its inception, a location amidst homes and businesses in Grünerløkka finding the space mostly full of locals, it is outdoors at the bar or seated at tables that guests are treated to top notch service plus a menu that changes at least monthly.
Dimly lit with candles on wood tables, leather banquets offering a comfortable seat regardless of weather, diners may choose a la carte or a daily prix-fixe consisting of three courses.
Known for a terroir-driven Wine list, mostly French with several offered by the glass, Sunday found Riesling with moderate sweetness well matched to good Bread and a torn Tarte Flambée topped in melted Comté plus roasted Cepes.
Hard to pass up Beef Tartare or Norwegian Langoustines, the latter a daily special, suffice it to say there are no regrets when it comes to Turbot roasted until the collagen melts slightly and paired to Chanterelle Mushrooms plus Dill Butter and Leeks the plate more than justified its 465 NOK.
Casual and English friendly, though service is gracious and professional, it was only after finishing several creamy Pommes Dauphine that Dessert arrived as dueling Homemade Nougatine Ice Cream and flawless French Toast caramelized over a Custard center with Raspberries and Pistachio Ice Cream.
Named after Pastry Chef Pascal Dupuy, born French but trained in Norway and part of Oslo’s dining scene since 1995, Pascal now consists of several Patisseries and Restaurants including the largest near The Royal Palace.
Officially addressed Henrik Ibsens Gate 36, one of the few locations open on Sunday while much of Oslo rests, guests are invited to dine from 12h00 to 17h00 on a collection of Pastries, Salads, Soups, Sandwiches and Desserts.
Staffed by friendly servers from take-out to the table, all English fluent with a menu to match, Coffee ranges 49-65 NOK including everything from an honest Espresso to a towering Mocha on Ice.
Regarded by Relais Dessert International and Guide des Croqueurs de Chocolat, a range of Truffles lining shelves, Viennoserie is a mixed experience including a good Pan au Chocolate but soggy Almond Croissant while Flan a la Vanille consists of a good Crust surrounding soft Custard with evidence of pure Vanilla Beans throughout.
More pricey for Entremet, available to go but plated with Crème Anglaise or Fruit Purees on-site, Pascal’s Rhubarb Tart is artful in terms of taste as well as texture while the Feuilletine trends a bit sticky in the Caramel layer which makes cutting without a knife something of a mess.
Perhaps best known for homemade Softeis, undeniably produced with top quality Cream and smooth as silk, diners may choose to add a number of toppings with Sea Salt Caramel and crumbled Macarons in a variety of flavors the most popular for good reason.
