Self-described as “The World’s Freshest Doughnuts,” and personally felt to be the Nation’s premier purveyor of fried Dough ever since stumbling across the Costa Mesa flagship in 2013, it was via good fortune that Sidecar Doughnuts & Coffee was found in San Diego on Sunday, several fresh-from-the-fryer rings again demonstrating unparalleled Ingredients and smartly developed recipes.
Ever expanding, and part of Del Mar Highlands Town Center since 2018, it was mostly from old favorites that six were selected, Huckleberry and Strawberry each natural in terms of sweetness while “Choc-A-Lot’ triples-down on texture and decadence.
Moving next to a classic, Sidecar’s Old Fashion showing why fryer time and temperature matters in its lightness, it should come as no surprise that when Sidecar stays simple results raise the bar whether in the case of Saigon Cinnamon Crumb or Butter & Salt.
Black Sesame Colada – Aged Rum, Pineapple, Coconut, Tahitian Vanilla, Black Sesame
Opened in December 2018, and quickly making a name for itself as one of Las Vegas’ premier Chinese Restaurants, Mott 32 reintroduced Brunch for the first time since 2020 on Sunday with an all-new format.
A “bottomless” affair pre-pandemic, now instead offering dinner items alongside authentic Cantonese breakfast dishes a la carte, it is inside the Joyce Wang-designed space that guests are invited to take seats amidst 11,400 square feet of luxury, murals and gold-threaded wall coverings even more opulent in the daylight.
A glorious and multifaceted expanse, with educated servers all but guaranteeing guests a wonderful experience, it is after perusing some thirty items that diners are invited to choose “Fire” or “Ice” Cocktails including the likes of creamy Gin-spiked Tea or a citrusy Tang-Tang featuring Tequila and Szechuan Coconut Crunch.
Still featuring classics such as the 42-day Peking Duck, available as part of a Salad or on its own at a fraction of the nightly cost, favorites such as marinated Cucumbers and various Dim Sum styles come executed at a high level with Spicy Iberico Pork Shanghainese Soup Dumplings well-deserving their signature status.
Cutting no corners on Ingredients or upgraded décor it was while sipping a Champagne that delicate Cheung Fun arrived alongside piping-hot Sweet Corn Soup containing an impressive amount of Crab Meat.
Next bringing the heat with Szechuan Style Pork Dumplings, adequately reined in by a fragrant “Lai-Chee” or hard-hitting Lucky 8 “Shot,” fans of Noodles will find the Lo Mein springy amidst lightly applied Soy before perfectly cooked Brassicas lead up to delicate Desserts in both solid and liquid form.
Chocolate Mojito – Chocolate Chip Cookies, Andes Mint, Chocolate Drizzle
A one time a Cannery West kiosk now turned online business The Cookie Bar continues to march on, Wendy Baumgartner’s passion for baking undeterred by the pandemic and her current collection full of more kitschy yet delicious creations than ever.
Available via online apps, Food Truck or at Special Events, the options easily customized online, Thursday featured nineteen options delivered to the office with individual packaging quickly discarded and a bag of buttered-sweet Booze Munch quickly gone in a few handfuls.
Featuring both virgin and kicked-up riffs on classic American confections, Big Ohh adding granulated Sugar to the top of an Oatmeal Raisin Cookie for texture, both ”Kitchen Sink” cubes deliver about 6oz of decadence with a Cookie and Brownie sandwiching Oreos or Reese’s.
Adding Wedding Cake Vodka to Tipsy Velvet and a heart-shaped “Twisted Krispie,” the later a masterpiece thanks to Sea Salt and soft notes of Cocoa, The Cookie Bar’s Sugar Cookies eat like crisp Shortbread with nuance added by Citrus in the case of Limoncello and torched Sugar atop Crème Brulee.
Going classic with Buzz Kill, while Chocolate Mojito’s Mint takes Chocolate Chip in a different direction, “The Nookie” stuffs soft Caramel into a Pecan-studded Chocolate Chip round for just $3 – the same bargain cost charged for “Turnt Up Banana” with a chewy Banana base infused with Rum and topped with Vodka Buttercream Frosting.
As homegrown (or perhaps homebrewed) as it gets, both a Cinna-Doodle and Monster Brownie new and decadent, the Baumgartner’s Cookie Bar should be on any the short list for anyone with a sweet-tooth and all the more so for those looking to support local businesses.
Consistently Las Vegas’ toughest reservation Delilah debuted at Wynn in July of 2021, the “social dining” experience from L.A.’s h.wood Group making good use of Michelin 2* Alex’s former footprint with million dollar upgrades and aspirations to redefine a modern day Supper Club.
Long awaited and debuted with an opulent Grand Opening of A-List celebrities, guests are immediately met by a small foyer before entering the thirty-seat Little Bubble Bar whose rich fabrics overlook the main Dining Room two floors below.
Accessed via double staircases, with bronze and marble gilding the space envisioned by Wynn’s Todd-Avery Lenahan, tables reside between a main stage and larger bar with posh materials and wood surrounded by plaster ceilings above numerous original paintings.
Fusing interior to outside via paired courtyards, one abutting the Chef’s Table and secret dining room directly accessed via the kitchen, it was in the middle of the action that four diners sat Wednesday to enjoy seventeen plates from Chef Josh Smith and team.
Over-the-top in a good way, from contrasting patterns and custom porcelain to gracious servers with encyclopedic knowledge of the Chef Smith’s Cuisine, it is once Beverages are ordered that tables receive complimentary Milk Bread, each slice piping hot with a delicate crumb ready to be slathered by some of the best Butter in America.
Sparing no expense in terms of Ingredients or décor, Beef Carpaccio enjoyed amidst murals and mirrors, Appetizers from Chef Smith continued with Uni Chawanmushi and Crab Cakes that certainly bring the Meat with almost no filler.
High energy in the main room, easy for conversing until live music starts, additional small bites include Josh’s now-famous King Crab Caesar plus a new Greek Salad and two-bite Lobster Rolls that feature both Truffle Aioli and Brown Butter for dunking.
Onward to Entrees, but not before “Delilah’s Famous Chicken Tenders” again justified their signature status in terms of both taste and texture, Delilah’s Beef Wellington sees Chef Smith once again outpacing Gordon Ramsay alongside creamy Mashed Potatoes while glazed Scallops with creamy Corn highlight summer.
Not forgetting sides, Snap Peas simple but seasonal alongside layered Potatoes with Caviar and King Crab Pasta in Vodka Sauce, it remains pretty tough to beat Smith’s vertical Macaroni with Mimolette Fondue and Black Truffle Béchamel brought over from Bardot.
Growing livelier by the minute, but never too loud, it was around 8:15pm that the Captain poured Molten Chocolate overtop “Kendall’s Slutty Brownie,” but no matter how good this or Delilah’s Rocky Road Sundae are it will still take more to outpace Josh’s Grandmother’s world-class Gooey Butter Cake as Las Vegas’ best Dessert.
Born in Logan Utah Crumbl took the city by storm, their Instagramable rounds offered in thirty stores across six states by 2019 and now in all fifty states with six in Las Vegas including the Durango location opened in May 2020.
Created by Sawyer Hemsley and Jason McGowan, rapid expansion through franchising yielding mixed results from store to store as evidence by Social Media, it was after nine variable experiences that the westside storefront proved competent, the staff exceedingly pleasant whilst describing each choice.
Undoubtedly popular in part due to photogenicity, though a sterile interior oversells the fact that everything is made from scratch, the first thing those entering will notice is Crumbl’s limited collection of just six weekly flavors, though occasionally one may find “Mystery Cookies” including the likes of Peanut Butter Chocolate Chip or Rocky Road from the previous week.
Still a young company, so much success despite only starting in September 2017 certainly enviable, best bites came from specials that included “Blueberry Cheesecake,” flavors of Fruit and Cream Cheese well represented along with Graham Cracker Crumble resembling the crust.
Offered onsite or via delivery from 8am until at least 10pm Monday through Saturday it was next Cookies & Cream ate a lot Crumbl’s signature Milk Chocolate while both Raspberry Lemonade and Vanilla Crumb Cake riffed on their Sugar Cookie slathered in seasonal Icing.
Again finding “Cake” concepts better than the Cookies by which crumbl made their name suffice it to say the “Cannoli” lacks a crisp Shell but makes up for it in terms of heft thanks to smooth filling and a rim of Dark Chocolate Chips.
Banh Cuon Steamed Rice Roll – Minced pork, wood ear mushroom, veggies, sliced pork roll, fermented pork, house fish sauce
Chao Long Pork Porridge – Pork organs, pork blood cube, served with Chinese Donuts
Banh Xeo Crispy Turmeric Pancake – Pork, shrimp, veggies, mung bean sprout, house fish sauce
Tucked away on Decatur just off Spring Mountain resides YEN Viet Kitchen, a low-ceilinged space offering traditional Vietnamese dishes including several Southern specialties not available anywhere else in Sin City.
Quiet and nondescript, just a few tables plus refrigerators decorating the space staffed by a single server, guests choose from a two-sided laminated menu featuring traditional names plus English descriptions.
Populated by young Vietnamese locals on Saturday afternoon, a contrast to the kitchen run by elders, service proves fast and proficient beginning with smooth Ca Phe and continuing with Banh Cuon featuring three types of Pork Sausage atop Rice Rolls that are fresh and interesting even before a splash of Fish Sauce.
Also offering a crispy Omelet called Banh Xeo, the “Pancake” perfumed by Turmeric on both sides of Pork, Shrimp and Mung Beans, fans of Offal will find Chao Long Pork Porridge particularly compelling thanks to broken down Rice and Lemongrass that help subdue intense Liver, smooth Tripe and gelatinous Blood Cubes.
Lemongrass Chicken Pho – Grilled Lemongrass Chicken, Green Onions, White Onions, Cilantro
Shredded Chicken Pho – Green Onions, White Onions, Cilantro
Short Rib Pho – Shredded Chicken, Green Onions, White Onions, Cilantro
Pho Tony Special – Shredded Chicken, Giblets, Offal, Green Onions, White Onions, Cilantro
Opened as Phở Gà Tony Tony in early 2022 and rebranded as Pho Ga Bac Bac several months later it is safe to say the space on the corner of Spring Mountain and Valley View has found its following, 24/7 hours of operation finding the place continuously busy while its menu has expanded to include everything from appetizers to desserts.
Specified as Northern Vietnamese, Chef Tony Le bringing his experience at Cafe Pho Ga Thanh Thanh west from Philadelphia before selling to partners, it is inside the sizable Restaurant that guests will access the menu via QR code while music plays faintly overhead.
Largely populated by Vietnamese locals, the room otherwise featuring a nutcracker, full bar and DIY Cotton Candy machine adjacent televisions showing sports, guests will find everything from Omelets to Ribeye Steak in addition to crispy Eggrolls meant to be wrapped in Lettuce before dipping into Fish Sauce.
Featuring an open kitchen with quick service, all the Broths cooked continuously and skimmed frequently, prices range $16.99 to $19.99 for enormous portions featuring tender Noodles plus bold aromatics including Star Anise and Cardamom that compliment Shredded or Grilled Lemongrass Chicken.
Not only offering Phở Gà, the Broth taking on more depth with the addition of Beef, fans of funkier flavors will find “Pho Tony Special” upgraded by Offal while the version offered with a whole Short Rib develops visible droplets of Fat that accentuate the Onions and Coriander.
Headquartered in San Francisco, but manufacturing and distributing Candy out of Los Angeles since 1921, See’s Candies still bears the surname of founders, Charles, Florence and Mary, while time-honored flavors are sold across twenty U.S. States and as far away as South Korea.
Born from Canadian immigrants, and focused on quality from the very beginning, it is currently under the management of Berkshire Hathaway that the company sells some $90,000,000.00 in Candies per year, the majority featuring locally sourced Nuts and natural flavors enrobed in Cocoa from the Guittard Chocolate Company.
Sold in three Las Vegas storefronts, and additionally from kiosks at LAS, it was from a 1-lb box sold for $21.75 that several flavors were tasted, the “Milk Cherry” found only in stores an early highlight thanks to its near-liquid center while Dark Buttercream with Vanilla also fared well.
Additionally gifted a box of Peanut Brittle, crunchy with lots of Butter balancing sweetness, it is easy to see why See’s remains successful after 100+ years and its largely a matter of good ingredients plus focusing on what they know, rather than more esoteric ideas.
Located just off the 405 in Inglewood is Randy’s Donuts, celebrating 70+ years slinging fried Dough under an iconic 32-foot sign 24/7, and now growing the name globally with 20+ locations stretching to South Korea and Dubai – or in this case Sin City.
Unimpressive in 2015 at the Original, though new outposts trend cleaner without the cash-only policy, Randy’s on West Charleston Boulevard opened in February 2023, recipes reportedly unchanged since day one though premium toppings and savory items have been added.
Busy at noon on a Wednesday, though a full selection was available, it was in exchange for $30 that a dozen Donuts were received, including two Jumbo-size Rings.
Recalling Cake Donuts greasy, Randy’s Red Velvet actually performing well, Maple Frosting is featured abundantly with taste artificial but pleasant in comparison to Chocolate that is undoubtedly cheap and applied too thick.
Well-priced in the current market, “cheaper-by-the-dozen” offers growing less common, Cereal-topped specials execute as expected while Maple Raised with Churros and Vanilla Oreo both prove worth the cost and calories.
Risen like a phoenix from the ashes of Ramir Bolanos DeCastro’s beloved Purple Potato it is as a Bakery that the former Yonaka Chef’s legacy continues to grow via Donuts, Cookies, Ube-based treats and Filipino Pastries.
Previously offered for delivery or takeout only, but now brick and mortar at 6370 W Flamingo Rd #20, it was Tuesday that fifteen items were procured for tasting and shared by a group during weekend festivities.
Never actually gone from the local food scene, the rebranding of Yonaka and Purple Potato followed by a consulting gig at McCarran, Chef DeCastro’s current lineup continues with Croissant, Ring and Polvoron Bismarck Donuts, this day featuring a dozen varieties ranging from Salted Caramel to Guava Cheesecake and several styles featuring Flan.
Also bringing back the Mix Berries & Oats Layered Donut for warmer weather, plus new items for each holiday, fans of savory selections will be delighted to know Ramir recently added breakfast items including a burger and Tocino Rice Bowl complete with glazed Pork Belly and aromatic Rice.
The only place in town for Ensaymada, traditional Cheese or Ube Cream, additional specials such as the Tres Leches Cake and Cookies sell out early for good reason.
Unquestionably Las Vegas’ top choice for French Pastry over the past 8+ years Rosallie Le French Café continues to show well on-site or to-go, a Monday morning delivery finding Pastries carefully arranged with several still warm and both the Croissants as well as the Danishes still the best in town.
The flagship of John and Sam’s family of pizzerias since November of 2012, with an expansive floor-plan including room to experiment with new Dough, it was alongside six others that Metro Pizza on Sky Pointe was entered at noon on Saturday, Pizzaiolo Arena already hard at work baking Las Vegas’ best Crust and Toppings.
Dubbed “America’s Neighborhood Pizzeria” since the early eighties, though past and present Metro is so much more, it was after choosing from a multitude of tables and booths that a server approached with Beverage options including Beer, Wine and Soft Drinks.
Not overly busy just an hour after opening, though doing brisk take-out and delivery, lunch began first with Bread, two piping hot Loaves proving entirely irresistible before diving into a Tavern-style Pizza made by John Arena featuring Sausage, Brocollini and Buratta kissed by Citrus.
Always happy to let John cook, and more so enthralled by his encyclopedic knowledge of Pizza, it was alongside signature Knots and Garlic Romano Fries that two Pies were served simultaneously, The Zamboni turning up Sausage & Peppers with Honey while “The Gotham” delivers Supreme styling complete with Peppers, Onions, Mushrooms and three types of Meat.
Onward to a “Triple Play” of Sausage on crispy rectangles the cold-fermented 86th Street is defiantly light despite its thickness, and whether served with or without Toppings there remains no better Sicilian Pizza tasted anywhere in the world to this day.
Testing two new Pizzas on a willing group of thirteen, first Brazil’s Catapuri with thin slices of Zucchini contrasting bold Pepper Jam, a second Tavern-style crust supported Porchetta, Pistachios and reduced Balsamic before Metro’s Cannoli completed the afternoon with filling still made daily by John’s nonagenarian Father.
Born in Logan Utah Crumbl took the city by storm, their Instagramable rounds offered in thirty stores across six states by 2019 and now in all fifty states with six in Las Vegas including the Durango location opened in May 2020.
Created by Sawyer Hemsley and Jason McGowan, rapid expansion through franchising yielding mixed results from store to store as evidence by Social Media, it was after nine variable experiences that the westside storefront proved competent, the staff exceedingly pleasant whilst describing each choice.
Undoubtedly popular in part due to photogenicity, though a sterile interior oversells the fact that everything is made from scratch, the first thing those entering will notice is Crumbl’s limited collection of just six weekly flavors, four specials alongside Sugar slathered in seasonal Icing plus Chocolate Chip that uses all Milk Chocolate and trends far too sweet.
Still a young company, so much success despite only starting in September 2017 certainly enviable, best bites came from specials that included “Strawberry Shortcake,” flavors of Fruit and Vanilla well represented in an individual tray best eaten with a fork.
Offered onsite or via delivery from 8am until at least 10pm Monday through Saturday it was next that S’mores layered atop crumbl’s Chocolate Chip while Apple Pie was neither Pie nor Cookie but something in between.
Again finding “Cake” concepts better than the Cookies by which crumbl made their name “Cornbread” set a high standard for both the brand and Cookies in general by creating something just savory enough to be Cornbread and then offsetting it with Honey Cream Cheese Frosting plus textural components.
MONTE CRISTO – Brioche French Toast, Ham, Swiss Cheese and Jelly. Served with Smashed Potatoes
Opened in April of 2024 by Ryan Labbe and his 81/82 Group Early Birds is located at 5025 Blue Diamond Road, a schlep for most of the Valley and one that has thus far been met with mixed reviews by guests except for obvious Social Media #influencer shills and “critics” grubbing in their car.
Described as “A Breakfast Spot” by signage, or an “off-Strip gem” online, guests arriving too far after the 7am opening can expect a wait despite open tables that go uncleared for up to an hour while table service isn’t much better – in some cases requiring a member of the party to stand up 30 minutes after seating to ask for water.
Pleasantly decorated with a virtual sky and bird photos, a scrolling collection of cartoons on television while iheartradio plays overhead, guests dine at tables high and low with plates arriving as ready – though forget asking for a “Massive” Cinnamon Roll “sold out for weeks,” housemade Chips or other menu items including some of the drinks.
Oddly disorganized on a busy holiday, 81/82’s La Neta and Juliet Cocktail Room far more efficient, once Food arrives he experience picks up whether one chooses to sip Coffee or the creamy “Bird Bath” with classics such as a Corned Beef Skillet or Chicken and Waffles.
Reluctant to serve Syrup without a request, its quality questionable, Early Bird’s “Monte Cristo” is better described as a French Toast Sandwich without enough Jelly while Bananas Foster Pancakes include Ice Cream but fail to booze up or Caramelize the Fruit in a setting where such seems expected.
Not lacking for portions considering a price-point similar to other community Breakfast joints fans of Burgers will be happy to know this version comes as two smashed Patties with all the accouterments while “Phat Elvis” in a lunchbox takes the King’s favorite Sandwich in a new direction thanks to Cinnamon Toast Crunch while omitting the Bacon.
Despite signage suggesting Summer House Santa Monica the location inside Durango Casino & Resort is actually Lettuce Entertain You’s first branch of the “California-inspired Restaurant” out west, and regardless of what might be inside the Cookie Bar out front is a sight for sore eyes.
Taking a Spago-esque approach to Market-fresh fare, think Pizzas and Pastas plus plates from an all-wood grill, it is for roughly $5-6 each that guests will find a dozen or more daily baked good including everything from classic Chocolate Chip with big dark chunks to Rice Crispy Treats with or without bits of Oreo in the mix.
A natural feeling space bathed in light, Rockwell Group taking on LEYE’s first off-Strip venture, guests not fond of Cocoa will find “Birthday Cake” far outpacing crumbl’s famous Frosted Cookie while both glazed Lemon and Peanut Butter eat soft and chewy within a gently crisp rim.
Recently impressing with a “Cinnamon Roll” Cookie, think fully-glazed Gingersnap with more Butter and less Spice, Summer House’s Apple Oatmeal Cookie reminisces of Autumn Apple Crisp in portable form while the Brownie and Blondie both benefit from excellent Ingredients cooked soft with lots of Butter.
What happens when a Baker with experience at Proof and Friends & Family meets the owner of Gourmandise School on a dating app? In the case of Tony Hernandez and Clémence de Lutz the answer is PetitGrain Boulangerie which opened in early May 2024 at 1209 Wilshire Boulevard.
A Mexican and a Parisian, their menu built on local produce and 100% organic flours, guests will find Concha nestled next to faultless Viennoserie plus Cookies, Pies and even things such as a flattened Croissant riffing on Sfogliatelle inside.
Priced competitive to the rest of Los Angeles you’ll be hard pressed to find a better Almond Croissant outside of France and whatever Butter these two are using should be a new industry-standard.
Nihari Lamb and Shells – Lamb Shoulder, Fennel, Sumac Yogurt
Kesar Rickshaws – Saffron, Parmesan, Indian Long Pepper
Malai Rigatoni – Tomato Masala, Cream, Coriander
Samosa Pijja – White Korma Sauce, Samosa-Spiced Potatoes, Tandoori Onions, Imli Chutney, Mozzarella, Parmesan, Peas, Mint Chutney
Cookies and Cardamom Soft Serve
Opened early 2022 as part of a Comfort Inn in Silver Lake Pijja Palace is most certainly an “Indian Sports Bar,” but instead of Cricket on a single TV and the same Butter Chicken as everyone else the Food from Miles Shorey and owner Avish Naran taps into “fusion” of the best sort.
Still one of Los Angeles’ toughest reservations, though the addition of Weekend Lunch has helped walk-ins nab a table if they arrive early, it is seated on stools or banquettes that guests peruse a concise menu of Pizzas, Bar Favorites and Pastas plus creative drinks both virgin and alcoholic.
The brainchild of Naran, an LA native who studied restaurant management at the Institute of Culinary Education in New York, Pijja Palace places fans at the center of a dozen or more Televisions and within minutes nearly every table is enjoying Jaggery Tamarind BBQ Wings served with housemade Pickles or cracking slices of Onion fried in Dosa Batter.
Served piping hot and aggressively seasoned, both Aloo Tiki Hash Sliders and Chili Garlic Toast not for the timid, service is “cool” but proficient whether filling water or describing why one would might want the hearty Samosa Pijja instead of Chef Shorey’s more famous Green Chutney version.
Not forgetting ample portions of Pasta, Malai Rigatoni with smoky Tomato Masala arguably over-Sauced but nonetheless delicious, Kesar Rickshaws eat a lot like Mac n’ Cheese with more depth while Nihari Lamb and Shells finds balance in Sumac Yogurt.
Following an embrace of Soft Serve seen from Leopardo to Dana Point’s Truly Pizza, but hear leaning in on the concept with a Rose Water flavor adjacent “Cookies and Cream,” suffice it to say Cardamom makes a big difference in elevating the Ice Cream to something memorable rather than perfunctory.
Considered by most to be the best Doughnut scene in the United States, seemingly an independent mom ‘n pop shop turning out glazed rings on every corner from Pasadena to Venice, Donut Friend plies its trade with old fashioned know-how and seasonal flavors that are entirely plant based.
Created by producer Mark Trombino, the original Highland Park location visited in 2014 and DTLA more recently, Creamo by Donut Friend sees the all-Vegan shop continuing to expand on its mission with creative choices including Ice Creams and Shakes.
At the beginning allowing guests to customize their own fried Dough, now instead doing so via Ice Cream and Toppings near the register, staff proves educated and pleasant while describing everything from an extra crispy Fritter packed with Fruit to “Yellow Carrot” with spiced Cake beneath Cream Cheese Frosting and Candied Walnuts.
Taken best as a ‘Dessert Shop’ rather than a simple Doughnut vendor Donut Friend, much like Sidecar and Blue Star, continues to shine by way of an Old Fashioned perfumed with Nutmeg while fans of fancy stuff will find lots to love in both creamy-crunchy Youth Brulee and “Angry Somoa” that eats like its namesake Cookie but better.
With three, soon to be four, Southern California locations plus spots in Chicago, Boston and New York Dayglow is not only a Roaster but also the importer of many international contemporaries, the Nordic influence evident in everything from Beans to interior design.
Offering no less than twelve styles of Beans, most available as Pour-over but some as Espresso or Coldbrew plus Cocktails, guests are invited to sit inside or outdoors while enjoying their beverages with or without Pastries from the likes of Bakery By Jiyoon.
Owned by Tohm Ifergan and priced appropriate to Silver Lake those who enjoy Colombian Beans will find Dayglow’s “Decadent” smooth with lingering Chocolate notes well-suited to a Vegan Black Forest Hand Pie while the Kouign Amann tries to remedy its flaccid crumb with an exaggerated caramelized Sugar base.
Long departed from Saison, at one time America’s best Restaurant, Josh Skenes reemerged in Los Angeles May of 2024 with Leopardo, the former La Brea Bakery in Mid-Wilshire converted into what the Chef calls “a raw bar with Pizza.”
Always fanatical about Ingredients, this newest venture following his Michelin 3* years in San Francisco plus Angler in its focus on the best natural products available, Leopardo finds Skenes focused on rare terrain that is elegant yet casual with service far outpacing the price point for LA.
Self-described as “unfamiliar takes on the familiar,” a Pavesi Pizza oven capturing attention on entry, it is amidst brick and assorted artifacts that guests are seated to peruse the daily menu while the likes of Phil Collins and Prince play medium-loud overhead.
Only accepting reservations a week in advance so far, though walk-ins are welcomed, most will elect to begin with Cocktails including the two-part Bloody Mary, silky frozen Rose or the sweet yet savory “Neo White Russian” that rethinks the classic in a good way.
Best visited with a group, in this instance enough to share two of everything, starters include everything from Deer Tartare with crisps and spoonable Marrow to a classic Cesar or the “Cali-prese” featuring individually skinned Tomatoes that capture the essence of California Summer.
Also offering Olives, Oysters, Crudo and spicy Pickled Vegetables, plus a faultless Avocado in vibrant gel tinged by smoke, there’s no denying the spotlight nature of Leopardo’s crunchy yet yielding Polenta Waffle awaiting the addition of aged Osetra caviar, Barbecue Corn-cob Maple Syrup and Bordier Butter.
Turning attention to Pizza, four available on the evening after a power outage, Leopardo’s crust is the result of nine Flours plus Wild Yeast and a 48-hour ferment that bubbles big around the cornicione to yield an open web that is crisp yet chewy and ever so slightly sweet.
Predictably taking no shortcuts in terms of toppings, the Sauce canned by Skenes using Early Girls and Mozzarella housemade with Straus Creamery Milk, guests will find a classic Margherita alongside “Re-Marinara” enlivened by Smoked Ham and a sidecar of cool Stracciatella plus an all-new White Pie and “Hello Satan” loaded with Chilis, Salumi, Garlic and a kiss of Honey.
Offered without a Beef entree on Saturday, though Wild Boar Meatballs featuring a smooth grind and lots of complexity are available for carnivores, Tilefish comes grilled tender atop smoky Fish Sauce before concluding in desserts including Soft Serve, feather-light Tiramisu and a golden Blackberry Hand-pie.
