Salted Honey Custard Pie, Dulce de Leche, Local Honey
Owned by Chef Rick Lewis, and featuring upscale Southern cooking with counter service, Grace Meat + Three has earned its fair share of accolades, though based on a midday Sunday visit in December the Food generally seems overpriced and unbalanced.
Located at 4270 Manchester Avenue, 11a-8p hours from Wednesday through Sunday featuring separate menus for Brunch, Lunch and Dinner, it is upon entry that guests see the Restaurant spread left and right, the overhead menu not entirely accurate – though apparently neither is the tri-fold near the door considering the difference between what was served and what was printed.
Taking orders from a central counter, a fact not obvious to first timers including a family who went and sat down before realizing their error and joining the queue, it was after inquiries regarding portion sizes and Grace’s “Daily Bread Puddin” that a three part order was composed, Sourdough Beignets described as coming with “Persimmon Mousse + Pickled Pears” the first disappointment as they arrived doughy and flavorless with Blueberries and floral Citrus in a perfunctory pan.
Waiting perhaps ten minutes for course two, juicy Fried Chicken performing well atop a thin Waffle while buttery Cornbread outpaced Grits that needed more salt and less Herbs, Desserts sold for $8 each proved rich but small, the Pudding eaten on-site an enjoyable riff on the classic while Salted Honey Custard Pie taken to-go was visually compromised and mostly just sweet.
French Toast, Maple Mascarpone, Orange, Oat-less Granola
Carrot Cake, Graham Frosting
Part of St. Louis’ Bowood neighborhood, Café Osage occupies a quarter of the garden-store at 4605 Olive Street, and despite service that can kindly be called “clueless” the breakfast/lunch concept shows well thanks to housemade fare featuring mostly organic Ingredients and several items made from Fruits and Vegetables grown on-site.
Open from 7:00am until 2:00pm on Weekdays, and letting employees sleep in an hour later on weekends, it is from an unpaved lot next door that guests access the front door after passing by outdoor gardens, the dining area located up a few stairs where hostesses stand to confirm reservations.
Allowing also for walk-ins, though seats were largely accounted for by nine o’clock on a rainy Sunday, it was after perusing both specials and an all-day menu that a young server arrived, the question as to whether he was hung-over or just lazy never answered as the majority of his time was spent lollygagging at the pass rather than tending to tasks like refills or presenting plates that even saw him state “your French Toast will be out soon” approximately ten minutes after it had already been eaten.
Fair priced for the Ingredient quality, Chef Scott Davis taking inspiration from the Osage Orange Trees which surround Bowood Farms, Brunch began with three-bite Biscuits sandwiching Ricotta Cheese and a small drizzle of Honey, the Buttermilk prominent throughout flaky layers that could be further adjusted to guests’ tastes with housemade Raspberry Jelly.
Waiting only a few minutes more for the aforementioned French Toast, all while trying to ignore the incessant banter of two twenty-somethings within earshot, fans of the Breakfast staple will be excited to know Café Osage’s Brioche comes thick-cut with lots if Custard and a good seer, while Citrus, Syrup and housemade Granola add complexity matched by the thick Frosting atop a particularly aromatic slice of Carrot Cake.
Ham & Jam Biscuit, Fontina Cheese, Overeasy Egg / Brunch Burger with Breakfast Sausage, Overeasy Egg, Fontina Cheese, Rooster Mayo / Breakfast Potatoes
Finnish Pancake, Butter, Housemade Strawberry Jam
Described as a “European-style urban Café,” Rooster is known for long lines across two locations in St. Louis, an early arrival during inclement weather still finding plenty of patrons present while Food delivered by pleasant servers was well-priced and enjoyable.
Touting Crepes and Sandwiches beginning at 7:00am on weekdays and 8:00am on weekends, it was by foot that the location at 1104 Locust Street was approached from free Sunday Parking, a hostess suggesting seating in the smallest of three rooms with shabby-chic décor and blues playing from the ceiling.
Owned by Restaurateur Dave Bailey, with lots of branding and “EAT LOCAL” shirts (that were sold-out in every size but XL) throughout, it was after lengthy perusal of items both sweet and savory that a two-part order was placed, management graciously allowing a small edit that the kitchen failed to execute correctly, though the result was still good.
Waiting perhaps ten-minutes while sipping water, seats beginning to fill briskly around nine o’clock, it was with the two-top nearly full that first bites were taken of dueling Biscuits, the “Brunch Burger” made correctly with herbaceous Sausage balance by Egg and Cheese while the “Ham & Jam” requested in place of a second oddly lacked Jelly with spicy Mayo served in its stead.
Unmoved by Breakfast Potatoes, but happy to see nicely-layered Biscuits with plenty of Butter, dish two featured a Finnish Pancake rather than American or French versions, its oven-baked finish yielding caramelization on both sides of a Custard-soft center without a lot of sweetness that made for an excellent pairing with either Maple Syrup or housemade Strawberry Jam.
Located in a residential neighborhood not far from downtown, Chef Logan Ely’s Savage has been highly touted ever since its 2018 opening, and at $75 for 12+ courses the pescetarian menu navigates nicely across Roots, Vegetables and local Produce with modernist technique frequently utilized but never distracting.
Occupying a former corner-store in Fox Park, shelves and stock replaced by an elongated bar surrounding an open kitchen with immersion circulators, flat-tops and ovens, it is by reservation that guests are invited to gather for three menus of varying lengths, allergies and restrictions taken into account but the actual courses a secret until they arrive.
A tight crew on any given night, just six women and men including Chef Ely comprising front of house and kitchen combined, it is after selecting course number with or without Beverage pairing that dinner starts quickly, vibrant Broth made from roasted Fish Bones awakening the palate before progressing to a warm Spot Prawn roasted over coals before being dragged through pureed Roe with a touch of Curry.
Drawing from global influences, Stage at Blue Hill and Amass both evident in plates that coax maximum flavor from local Produce, the next in a series of opening bites was a Mushroom coated with “Cauliflower Batter” and fried, its lightness impressive while the Beet “Chicharrón” to follow was a bit less crispy than its namesake, but delicious beneath dollops of Citrus.
Continuing light, the 12+2 courses occurring across 120-minutes just enough to leave most guests sated but not full, dish five was arguably the night’s least successful as chunks of Pumpkin ate like Boba at the base of umami-augmented Chestnut Soup, its follow-up a rapid return to form as raw Scallops found their foil in shredded Mushrooms and Turnips.
Next fusing spongy Flatbread with local Cheese and Baccala grounded by Beans, the “Taco’s” complexity paying off and leading smartly to a Tart with silken Potatoes and Blue Cheese Fungus grown on-site, Chef Ely shows a lot of confidence in his audience by offering Mullet made even more “fishy” by way of Mussels and Wakame, while Celery Root Custard plays more nicely than one might think with cooked Mushrooms and Citrus.
Offering no land Animals on this particular evening, the final savory a caramelized Onion with Malt Crumble, Shitakes and Mousse that tastes a lot like French Onion Soup, Dessert got underway with Buttermilk Pave that eats like Cheesecake, its follow-up of Pecan Ice Cream and Caramel Corn simple but enjoyable while the liquid-center Bon Bon tasted precisely like its namesake.
Missouri Baking Company has been providing the Hill neighborhood with baked goods since 1924, and pairing Italian roots with a St. Louis twist the product ranges from traditional Sfogliatelle to Gooey Butter Cake with a number of stops between.
Located at 2027 Edwards Street, and open every day of the week but Monday by 7:00am, it is from a private lot that guests make their way into a space that looks to have not changed for decades, a traditional pulled-number system assisting in line management though the red dispenser is oddly located several yards from the door.
A cash (and check) only affair, with most products save for whole Cakes tallying between 75-cents and 3 dollars, it is after perusing everything from Bread to Baklava that most guests will gravitate to Cookies sold by the pound, arrival just past 4:00pm finding a somewhat depleted stock, though Apricot Tops and Gooey Butter rounds fresh from the kitchen were each soft and crumbly with plenty of sweetness.
Gun-shy about laminated Pastry more than nine hours after opening, the unattractive Sfogliatelle texturally compromised with a soggy bottom despite appropriate flavor, it was next into a Pecan Crisp that teeth plunged, a crackle not unlike Palmier enjoyable, as was the ample use of Cinnamon.
Underwhelmed by an Oatmeal Cookie baked homogeneously from edge-to-center, its taste equally one-dimensional, Missouri Baking Company’s best bite came by way of a “Gooey Butter Danish” featuring a tangy-sweet filling atop a fairly good base, though one does wish ownership would consider selling slices of the actual Cake itself considering there were still at least still six left in stock with only 50 minutes till closing.
‘Nduja French Toast – Fried Chicken, Pickled Fresno Chilis, Maple Syrup
A rare Missouri recipient of the JBF Award for Best Chef: Midwest, Gerard Craft’s name carries a lot of weight in St. Louis, and during Brunch at Sardella the Niche Food Group team spins classic plates clever by way of imported Italian ingredients with great success.
Now part of Clayton for three years, sister-space Pastaria having since launched an outpost in Nashville, it is only on weekends that Sardella opens its doors at 10:00am, nearby street parking highly convenient and the space itself approachable with an open concept featuring bright colors, plenty of wood and artwork.
Seating nearly a dozen guests just moments after opening, the lone server lending help to a bartender suddenly inundated with orders for a variety of specialty Cocktails, it was after perusing the Pastry case that Coffee was ordered, the $4 Iced Americano from Sump unfortunately a bit acrid at first, but slowly mellowing with time.
Fortunate to order Food before two large parties, both items delivered simultaneously fifteen minutes later, fans of Eggs Benny will likely be fascinated by dueling Ravioli that perfectly replicate the dish’s flavor right down to hints of Yeast in “Bread Ricotta,” while those unafraid of a little heat should dive right into Fried Chicken and French Toast smeared with spicy Calabrian Sausage that is subsequently doused with infused Maple Syrup.
A part of Clayton since 2015, Vincent Marsden’s “Vincent Van Doughnut” brought the idea of artisan fried Dough to a city long-content with the usual, and although locals may still gripe about pricing the product itself is high quality, clever and comparable to what one will find at similar shops on both coasts.
Now with two locations, the original a cozy brick space with strong WiFi plus various types of seating, it is prior to opening the door that a smell of Yeast permeates the sinuses, some twenty-two flavors plus Holes available on this particular Saturday morning.
Conducive to lingering over Coffee and conversation, the lone server efficiently serving a steady stream of guests with a smile on his face, suffice it to say that Vincent Van Doughnut is not a place for “cheaper by the dozen” discounts, yet despite a price of $24.20 for six it would be difficult to find fault in any of the rounds (or squares) tasted.
Running the gamut from Raised to Cake and Glazed to Filled, it was based on personal preferences with an eye toward variety that tasting got started with Vanilla Glazed Cake, the base itself slightly crumbly but rich with Butter while the topping tasted surprising natural both here, and more so in the case of Blueberry.
Moving next to yeasty squares, hand-cut “French Toast” offering its Brioche base beneath Maple, Cinnamon, Pecans and Walnuts, fans of raw Cookie Dough are likely to be impressed by the egg-less scoop atop Cheesecake Glaze, Chocolate Chips, Streusel and Dark Chocolate Ganache.
Always rich but never too sweet, though a fluffy pocket filled with Dulce De Leche and coated in Cinnamon-Sugar is probably best shared, those craving Cocoa should not overlook a special “Samoa” if available, the ingredients undoubtedly better than its namesake and heft about the same as a whole box of Cookies.
Located in Kirkwood, Nathaniel Reid Bakery is the eponymous home of a former Las Vegas Pastry Chef, and with Le Cordon Bleu training plus stints at The Ritz and Joel Robuchon on his resume the baked goods set a high standard that have even landed Chef Reid a James Beard Foundation Semifinalist nomination.
Now a destination for St. Louisans for over three years, the Bakery’s spot in a non-descript strip-mall seemingly out of place until one passes by the area’s most luxurious shopping center en route, it was just after Reid’s 7:00am opening that shelves were found half-stocked, a two day Thanksgiving break necessitating additional prep-work, though neither that fact nor heavy rains stopped a steady flow of traffic.
Fairly basic in layout, a kitchen behind glass hard at work while clerks gathered and boxed customer orders, it was after perusing items including Chocolates and housemade Jam that an order was composed, five items tallying $19.80 and first bites of an “Apple Pie” Croissant more than justifying the cost with impressive layers of lamination surrounding Fruit and Streusel.
Moving next to an Oatmeal Raisin Cookie, simple but well crafted with a soft center and crispy rim, fans of Brittany’s famous Butter Pastry will be happy to know Nathaniel Reid’s Kouign Amann compares favorably to America’s best while Monkey Bread termed “Pull Apart” and the Almond Croissant made with ground Nuts instead of Frangipane are both enjoyable, without being too sweet.
Pear – Flourless Pecan Cake, Brown Butter, Dark Chocolate Ganache, Riesling, Young Ginger
Opened in 2017 by Michael and Tara Gallina, Vicia is widely considered St. Louis’ best Restaurant, and across 2.5 hours on Friday evening the kitchen showed why with intelligent Vegetable-focused fare clearly evidencing the Chef’s time at Blue Hill with Dan Barber.
Part of the Cortex Innovation Community, a rapidly gentrifying part of the Central West End not far from Ikea, it is amidst tall blades of Grass that guests will find Vicia low-laying on a slight slope, an expansive footprint spreading from foyer to dining room with an enclosed outdoor patio to the right and bar on the left.
Sleek without feeling overtly “hip,” the open kitchen and sizable hearth fitting inside a space with plenty of glass and good lighting, it is unsurprising that with accolades spanning from USA Today to Bon Appétit that Vicia strongly recommends reservations for dinner Tuesday through Saturday, though Lunch and “Midday Happy Hour” beginning at 11am and 2 o’clock, respectively, offer more casual walk-in service with a truncated menu.
Prone to seasonal change, and offering a la carte options in addition to a Tasting Menu and $55 “Farmer’s Feast,” it was opting for the latter that dinner was served as three family-style courses, the Vegetarian preference of two guests easily accommodated without affecting the enjoyment of others.
Focused on sustainability, an almost-zero waste ethos visible in items such as Salt made from Tomato Skins and Sauces that utilize Vegetable Tops, it was with a non-alcoholic Beverage in hand that course one was presented, hand-ground Wheat forming the base of Sourdough that eats soft and springy while no Grain at all is used to make Gallina’s signature “Turnip Shell Tacos” with vibrant Black Bean Paste and condiments including crumbled Pork, Yogurt and Mushrooms.
Tapping local farmers for bright yellow Butter and tanngy Goat Cheese, these plus the aforementioned “Salt” and Garden Pesto used to top Crudite plus the Flatbread, course one also included Pears wrapped in Prosciutto with Sesame and Balsamic, plus hybrid Kabocha-Butternut Squash forming a delicious alliance with Green Apples, Shoots and Seeds.
Almost entirely organic in sourcing, and happy to move at a pace where guests never feel rushed, course two arrived perhaps fifteen minutes after that which preceded it, a simply dressed Salad largely filler and Grilled Beets far too bitter to be enjoyed while dishes such as the Oyster Mushrooms served beneath creamy Citrus Dressing were nothing short of brilliant.
Treating the Omnivore with demi-size plates of Chicken and Beef, the Thigh simply grilled next to pureed Squash with a lot of smoke, fork-shredded Beef unfortunately found itself overwhelmed by Horseradish while Heirloom Grains and local Rice were each utilized well in the form of a stir-fry that leaned astringent and Porridge loaded with Cheese and earthy flavors.
Beginning to clean the Kitchen by 9:15am, the fire now little more than smoldering embers, Dessert arrived as a duo offering perhaps two-bites of each item, per person, “Blackberry” a bit compromised by florals but otherwise pleasant while Pears atop Pecan Cake and Dark Chocolate Ganache found their foil in fresh Ginger.
Maple Bourbon Pecan, Gooey Butter Cake, Salted Crack Caramel on a Waffle Cone
Described as a “modern microcreamery,” Clementine’s Naughty & Nice Creamery sells its concept with alcohol-infused flavors that change seasonally, but what really stands out is the smoothness of owner Tamara Keefe’s base and a zero-waste ethos.
Established in 2017, but a lifelong passion of its matriarch who claims to “think, feel, talk, and dream Ice Cream,” it is at the end of South 18th Street that guests will find the small space inside a former townhouse, a rainy Black Friday predictably quiet which allowed extra time to chat with staff and try samples of flavors such as “Decadent Coffee” and “Tequila Chocolate Mole.”
Offering boozy bites to only those 21+, a “special” process used to freeze high-proof Liquor without turning icy, it was after some debate that the three-scoop “moyen” size was selected, a housemade Waffle Cone pushing the pre-tax total to $7.50 for beautifully balanced Maple Bourbon Pecan plus sweet and creamy Gooey Butter Cake and best-selling Salted Crack Caramel with crunchy bits that made each lick a little different from the others.
Launched by Pitmaster Mike Emerson in 2008, Pappy’s Smokehouse soared to stardom on “Best Ribs in America” accolades from the Food Network, and although “Memphis-style” has been criticized by some enthusiasts as being “too sweet” a combination of smoke and technique sees Pappy’s brand sidestep such complaints.
Named after Emerson’s late brother, and perpetually packed at 3106 Olive Street, it is long before doors open each day at 11:00am that staff can be seen tending to sizable smokers located outside the Restaurant, a literal ton or more of Pork sold daily in addition to Beer, Sides, Poultry and Beef.
Eschewing mop-Sauce in favor of dry-Rub, the Meat subsequently cooked over a mix of Apple and Cherry Wood for 4+ hours, it is prior to entry that smoke permeates the sinuses, and utilizing counter-style service the line is expertly ushered by several young women in clever t-shirts to allow for quick seating where Food is delivered equally expeditiously.
Adorning each table with four housemade Sauces plus plenty of Napkins, the former enjoyable but not necessary while the latter is requisite, it was in exchange for less than $22 including tax & tip that more than a pound of Meat plus two sides was served, deep-fried Corn an idea whose time has come while Sweet Potato Fries are crisp and oilless, just as they should be.
Decorating the wall with local paraphernalia plus celebrity endorsements, and clearly a favorite of Cardinals and Blues alike, it was beginning with Burnt Ends that the quality of Pappy’s technique was evident, the texture almost like that of braised Short Rib beneath ample Bark while Ribs would undoubtedly fall right from the Bone were it not for a thin rim of caramelized Fat protecting the tender Flesh beneath.
Winslow’s Pancakes, Preserved Blueberries, Maple Syrup, Whipped Butter
A longtime favorite of students, faculty and families visiting Washington University, late-2019 saw Michael and Tara Gallina of Vicia take over Winslow’s Home, and renaming it Winslow’s Table the kitchen now takes a more farm-fresh approach while maintaining a few of Winslow’s classics.
Largely unaltered at 7213 Delmar Boulevard, even exterior signage and Google Maps yet to reflect a change in title, it was minutes past 8:30am that the mostly wood Restaurant was found quiet, though within forty-five minutes approximately 2/3 of seating was full with additional patrons coming and going with Baked Goods or Coffee from the counter.
Only re-opened on November 14th, a few well-healed returning guests overheard lamenting the absence of prior favorites, it was after brief perusal of housemade Pastries and a menu that ranges from Tacos to Shakshuka that decisions were made, Cold-Brew from Kaldi bold but pricey at $4 a can while the “Winslow Bar” spins the classic no-bake even more decadent with Pecan Crust and Chocolate Ganache sandwiching a Gooey Butter center.
Told of St. Louis “best” Pancakes by both a trusted friend and the elderly server, it was while slowly enjoying the Pastry that a stack of three arrived, the pleasant aroma of Yeast immediately greeting nostrils before fluffy bites of Flour, Eggs and Buttermilk found an amicable partner in Blueberry Compote plus Pure Maple Syrup.
Launched by Jason Bockman in October of 2013, Strange Donuts is celebrated by some St. Louisans as one of the city’s premier Doughnutteries, yet despite an early arrival on “Black Friday” morning the products tasted ranged from merely fair to frankly dry and unappealing.
Located in Maplewood, and proudly offering “Original Classics” alongside “Unique Creations,” it was minutes past 8:00am that the counter was found unattended, a disheveled man soon emerging for the kitchen and answering a few questions before accepting $8.25 in exchange for four fried rounds.
Only approximately 500 square feet, and doing nothing in terms of presentation or seating to inspire guests to stay, it was after transporting goods elsewhere that first bites were taken of Strange Donut’s “Rainbow Pony,” one friend’s comment that it “looks like a cartoon drawing of a Donut” oddly appropriate as everything save for the Frosting was as dry and flavorless as a sheet of paper.
Finding a “White Russian” no better, hints of Coffee in the Glaze appreciated though nothing approximating Kahlúa was detected, it is under the title of “Linzer” that Strange Donuts sells a fairly basic Raspberry Jelly Bismark while “Gooey Butter” falls far short of Old Town Donuts version despite costing 2.5x the price.
Having last dined in St. Louis mid-2012, it was prior to Gerard Craft’s recognition by the James Beard Foundation that a remarkable meal took place at niche, the Chef’s star since risen to a total of seven concepts including Brazilian-themed Cinder House along the waterfront at Four Seasons.
Opened in late-August 2018 and touting live-fire cooking, Craft’s childhood nanny and her Pão de Queijo a lasting influence across nearly fifteen years of professional cooking, it is after ascending eight stories that guests find themselves with a privileged view of The Gateway Arch, service predictably meeting luxury hotel standards from complimentary valet to the hostess podium and within.
Situated alongside a Bar and Lounge, seasonal décor plus live jazz greeting diners on Thursday night, it was with reservations confirmed that window-side seating was offered, a waiter mix-up briefly delaying the description of specials including a traditional Turkey dinner that was graciously declined in favor of menu options from Executive Chef Aaron Martinez.
Quiet despite being one of St. Louis’ few Restaurants open past eight o’clock on Thanksgiving, only a dozen guests in attendance and most occupying the bar area, it was with three courses decided that dinner began with housemade Bread, rustic Sourdough with a robust Crust performing well and followed quickly by self-selected Mushrooms bathed in saporous Butter plus vibrant Yellowtail Crudo, compliments of the Chef.
Warned of a 25-minute wait for “Dia’s Cheese Bread,” Ms. Cecelia Assuncao’s recipe lovingly baked from scratch per Chef Craft’s instruction any time it is ordered, it may seem odd to some that the Appetizer actually arrived shortly after Entrees on this particular evening, yet for those who’ve been fortunate enough to visit Brazil it would be difficult to name any better version of the cultural staple, whether at a casual café of Michelin 2* table.
Fascinated by Cinder House’s Feijoada, $30 yielding a sharable portion of Beef, Pork, Beans, Rice and Farofa with atypical additions including Kale and Citrus, another intriguing dish is Manioc “Polenta” featuring the mashed Root with Spicy Honey and Goat Cheese, while Desserts from Pastry Chef McKenna Schuetz-Reyes equally take liberties with tradition, IE Chocolate Coconut Tres Leches with contrasting Fruit textures and flavors.
*6 days after this visit Chef Martinez stepped down and Josh Adams was promoted to Chef de Cuisine.
Owned and operated in Florissant by baker Keith Took since 1968, many St. Louisans consider Old Town Donuts to be the city’s best, and on Thanksgiving day around 7:00pm the shop at 508 North New Florissant Road was found full of fresh treats just as they are 24/7/364, save for Christmas.
Situated a bit northwest of downtown, approximately ten minutes from St. Louis Lambert International Airport by car, it was shortly after landing that the low-slung building was entered, a young female clerk emerging from the kitchen and offering suggestions plus a coupon that, on top of cheaper-by-the-dozen discounts, yielded twelve items of any size or style for just $7.99 plus tax.
Taking a seat while watching an elderly gentleman mix Dough in back, all while groups of guests came and went despite both date or time, it should come as no surprise that most of the Doughnuts offered at a place called “Old Town” are classics, and although Cereal-topped Rings are indeed offered it seems highly unlikely that they offer a better bite than Mr. Took’s Dark Chocolate Devil’s Food or Bismark filled with Jelly.
Surprised to see oversized Cinnamon Rolls included at no additional cost, and more so by a proper Apple Fritter filled with plenty of chopped Fruit, those looking for lighter choices should pay close attention to two-bite Crescents and or simple Raised n’ Glazed, though the Cruller labeled “French Donut” unfortunately tasted oily rather than eggy.
Additionally offering fried Dough at a second location in Cottleville, Old Town Donut Shop #2 under the direction of Keith’s son from 2012 until today, fans of Old Fashioned Donuts will be happy to know Old Town’s are moist and lightly tangy while Blueberry tastes fine, though it likely comes from a commercial mix.
Saving two specials for the end, and separating them by a Chocolate-glazed pocket filled with Custard, “Pumpkin Glaze” seems to mean “Pumpkin Spice” rather than a Donut actually featuring America’s favorite Squash while St. Louis’ word-famous Gooey Butter Cake ascends to a new level thanks to Cream Cheese Filling and crumbled bits of Crust perched atop fried Cake.
Hand-carved Roasted Turkey Breast – Caramelized Maple Sweet Potatoes, Garlic Roasted Forest Mushrooms, Green Beans, Orange Cranberry Sauce, Old Time Stuffing, Herbed Pan Gravy
Pumpkin Cheesecake – Cinnamon Walnuts, Whipped Cream, Maple Tuile
Warm Apple Pie – Streusel, Vanilla Ice Cream, Caramel
Typically using Thanksgiving as an opportunity to travel, this year’s pre-flight feast needed to be early, and just as it has been for two decades Mr. Lucky’s was ready and waiting with several new and old favorites in addition to holiday specials from Chefs Chad Castanino and Mickey Harden.
Perhaps not the “usual” choice for families hailing from Las Vegas, but nonetheless serving some 150+ patrons by 9:30am on a Thursday, it was after mere moments at the hostess station that three guests were led to a booth in the room’s corner, paraphernalia from The Circle Jerks keeping watch while everything from Guns n’ Roses to The Beatles drifted from the ceiling.
Beginning Thanksgiving service a few minutes prior to eleven o’clock, four a la carte items joining the 24/7 Diner’s already expansive menu, it was while sipping Fall’s seasonal Latte that Breakfast Appetizers started things off, a warm Blueberry Muffin seemingly more Butter than Flour and Chef Harden’s Cinnamon Roll slightly crisp on the surface thanks to Nuts and sticky Caramel.
Prone to over-ordering, Mr. Lucky’s portion sizes forever outpacing prices that compare favorably to any such venue on The Strip, it was in exchange for $9 that guests were served an enormous bowl of fresh and dried Fruit suspended in Vegan Custard, the flavor of lightly-sweetened Coconut persuading several bites before progressing to a second course featuring “Loaded” Hash Browns and crispy Fried Chicken sandwiched between halves of a housemade Buttermilk Biscuit.
Unable to resist one of Las Vegas’ best stacks of Pancakes, plenty of Cocoa finding its foil in Mascarpone that faithfully recreates the inside of an Oreo, it was with Iced Tea cleansing the palate that holiday flavors soon got underway with vibrant Red Pepper Bisque given texture by Crawfish and herbaceous Bread Crumbs.
Going all-in with a plate of juicy Turkey Breast that could satisfy even those who prefer Dark Meat, the roasted Sweet Potatoes and fragrant Stuffing also memorable with or without Gravy, it was with every bite gone that Dessert arrived, Chef Harden again showing an incredibly diverse skill set with piping hot Apple Pie and decadent Pumpkin Cheesecake that looked just as good as it tasted.
FOUR AND A HALF STARS: Although almost every Las Vegas hotel has a 24/7 spot there is only one Mr. Lucky’s, and although they aren’t going to get nominated for any awards the menu from Chefs Chad Castanino and Mickey Harden is always full of surprises at a fair price, even (or more so) on holidays.
RECOMMENDED: Cookies and Cream Pancakes, Coconut Parfait, Cinnamon Roll, Chicken in a Biscuit.
AVOID: N/A.
TIP: Bisque, Turkey, Cheesecake and Apple Pie were all one-day specials. Check back closer to Christmas for that day’s unique additions.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Crab Cake – Pan Butter Sauce, Lime Celery Leaf Salad
Double Espresso with Ice
Bread Pudding – Butterscotch, White Chocolate Cap’n Crunch
Apple Cobbler – Brown Sugar Streusel, Housemade Vanilla Ice Cream
Anyone who cares about dining out in Las Vegas has undoubtedly come across a project that Antonio Nunez has been part of, and although The Stove remains a daily destination for brunch it is under “The Test Kitchen” moniker that he and Scott Commings have recently begun serving dinner from 5:30 p.m. until 10:00 p.m. on Fridays and Saturdays.
Described as “The brainchild behind culinary masterminds celebrity chef Scott Commings and locally celebrated chef Antonio Nunez, the Test Kitchen is a concept that brings small bites, boutique wines and an intimate dining vibe to the suburbs of Henderson” by Public Relations, which ineloquently seems to suggest the Restaurant is just another “small plates” concept, it is at 11261 South Eastern Avenue that guests will find the second story space with lights turned down and 90’s R&B playing.
Using the name Established Culinary Management for their consultation company, with projects already open or underway in Los Angeles as well as San Diego, it was shortly after checking in with the hostess that a party of two was led to window-side seats, Las Vegas’ twinkling lights in the distance and a menu updated weekly ready for perusal.
Truly a “test kitchen” for Chefs Nunez and Commings, the opportunity to feature seasonal Produce and unfamiliar Wines already embraced across two pages, it is from a total of twenty six savories that diners are invited to build their experience, a large volume of Vegetable-focused fare constituting starters, though carnivores are certainly not forgotten.
Beginning with beverages, the lady’s predilection for spice leading straight to a Strawberry Margarita with plenty of Jalapeno, it was in compliment to this that Fried Cauliflower found vibrancy through Citrus and Herbs, while simply roasted Brussels Sprouts held up their end of the bargain with Garlic and Bacon.
Never afraid to utilize bold flavors, and equally prone to Latin-American influence, course two consisted of charred Octopus treated as an addition to Papas con Chorizo, the Aioli providing smoothness just as Poblano Cauliflower Puree did to a pair of overloaded Short Rib Tacos with smoky Salsa that most certainly justify their $10 price.
Refreshing palates with a Cucumber Saketini, the plates to follow taking a more subtle approach, fans of The Stove’s fried Foie will be happy to see a beautifully seared slice that currently comes with Butternut Squash and Pears in two forms, while Smoked Salmon atop Toast gets invited to dinner with Dill Cream Cheese and bright Heirloom Tomatoes.
Served a little “Surf n’ Turf” to cap the savories, Test Kitchen’s filler-free Crab Cake unfortunately a touch overwhelmed by Celery, those seeking items that “are not small bites” need look no further than tender Skirt Steak served over crispy Potatoes, the dueling Sauces combining to form a flavor not dissimilar to Spanish Patatas Bravas.
Warned “I’m no Pastry Chef” by the man responsible for Las Vegas’ best Pancakes, it was alongside an iced Double Espresso that Dessert began with custard-Soaked Bread in a pool of Butterscotch, caramelized Cereal adding a bit of texture while the Apple Cobbler to follow was simple, piping hot and exactly as it should be beneath a scoop of slowly melting Ice Cream.
FOUR AND A HALF STARS: Recently launched as a playground for new ideas from Chefs Antonio Nunez and Scott Commings, The Test Kitchen by E.C.M. offers a unique look at the duo’s culinary talents with big flavors and a great view of Las Vegas twinkling in the distance.
Bourbon Fudge Brownie, Brown Butter Bacon Ice Cream
As with every new season for the past five years, Autumn 2019 delivers a multitude of new ideas from the crew at Carson Kitchen, planned openings of locations in Salt Lake City and Atlanta soon bringing the Restaurant that launched Las Vegas’ off-Strip revolution to new people in new places while Sin City continues to benefit from Kerry Simon and Cory Harwell’s willingness to take a chance on downtown.
Nothing less than iconic at 124 South 6th Street, Suite 100 of the John E. Carson Building continuously busy both day and night, it was shortly after doors opened at 11:30am that four guests found themselves seated at room’s center, a young woman named Angel pouring Beverages while tunes from The Strokes and Modest Mouse played overhead at low-volume.
Never content to rest on past success, even after unadulterated praise for a recent “greatest hits” menu that returned several favorites to the spotlight during Las Vegas’ scorching summer, it is from a team of talented women and men currently led by Chef Scott Simon that new ideas take shape, General Manager Matthew Harwell predictably overseeing service and a Cocktail program that has recently given longtime staff an unprecedented degree of creative control.
Only quiet for the first fifteen minutes of this Saturday, every seat except for those at the bar accounted for by 12:30, it was with a focus on new plates that lunch took place across five courses, the first starring frenched-Frog Legs that eat like Garlic Parmesan Wings and spicy grilled Oysters, plus stacked Turkey Breast on a Pretzel Roll that makes a delicious seasonal pairing to the Cider-like sipper titled “How Bout Dem Apples” from bartender Felicia Taylor.
Always attentive to guest feedback, even from the mouths of a constant complainers, it was in transition to the second course that diners were served Bacon Jam 2.0 with Havarti in place of Brie, its mixability improved and each bite a bit smoother, while Chelsea Barto’s “See the World Find an Old Fashioned Girl” took an herbaceous route leading guests from Spinach Salad through Gyro Tacos and Harwell’s ever-present Vegetarian Flatbread that this time features Mushrooms, Gruyere Cheese and Pickled Onions.
Continuing with two new Entrees, each Eastern European in influence and $20 or less, it is safe to say that 90% of the Schnitzel tasted in Germany fell short of Carson Kitchen’s crispy version served with pickled Potatoes, while sour Plum Sauce worked wonders for skin-on Trout gently sweetened by Molasses.
Suggested a Dark and Stormy-inspired beverage from Geronimo Robles next, its viscosity and sweetness standing up well to three of the menu’s spicier selections, those assuming “Hatch Chile Philly Flatbread” too hot will be pleasantly surprised that sweating and smoking the Peppers yields balance, while Chicken “Riggies” dressed in Gin Sauce, instead of Vodka, brings the fire.
Turning hearty for three more, soft Spuds in Beer Cheese precisely what a Midwesterner might expect at a wake, fans of American-style Chinese Food will find plenty to love about Carson’s current Chicken Thighs while Cory’s “Butter Burger” is as texturally pleasing as ever, and even better with the “menu hack” addition of Bacon Jam.
Skipping Coffee in favor of “Baxter Bark Twice,” a backbone of Scotch subdued by Amaro and Citrus, it is thanks to notes of Anise and Sage that this drink pairs well to both Carson Kitchen’s thick Chocolate Brownie and an intensely seasonal sweet called Beeramisu made with local Stout, Pumpkin Cream and boozy Cranberries.
FIVE STARS: Fresh off a greatest hits menu attesting to quality and innovation since opening, Carson Kitchen’s Autumn 2019 menu sees the Restaurant more seasonal than ever with bold flavors that are hearty but not heavy and new Cocktails that are herbaceous yet Spirit focused.
RECOMMENDED: How Bout Dem Apples, See the World Find an Old Fashioned Girl, Lollipop Frog Legs, Bacon Jam, Warm Spinach, Pork Schnitzel, Hatch Chile Philly Flatbread, Funeral Potatoes, Butter Burger, Chicken Thighs, Beeramisu, Bourbon Fudge Brownie.
AVOID: N/A.
TIP: Yes, the Butter Burger has cold Cheese on it. It is not Brie and never has been. If guests want the Cheese melted, they only need to ask. But they’d be better off asking to add Bacon Jam, which now also doesn’t include Brie.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Quickly approaching five years serving Las Vegas, and recently joined by two additional Restaurants from Chef Dan Krohmer, Other Mama was selected for dinner on Thursday night thanks to not only its cuisine and service, but the presence of a private dining room with AV capabilities to host a celebrated out of town guest.
Coordinated by pharmaceutical representatives located several states away, though the venue was specifically suggested by the publisher of this site based on both dietary constraints and budget, it was shortly before 6:30pm that all were present and accounted for, plates of Edamame and blistered Shishito Peppers present within minutes, and unfortunately the only items served for the first hour per speaker’s request.
A cozy room for twelve, closed doors and dull subject matter creating an environment conducive to sleep, it was after a breath of fresh air and chat with Chef de Cuisine Paul Mares that dinner officially got started, two familiar jars each showing off big flavors and housemade Chips for dipping while Other Mama’s Sashimi Platter continues to show evidence of quality sourcing and good knife skills offered at a fair price.
Successful in the rare trifecta of wowing critics, social media as well as local chefs ever since opening, and continuing the same on this evening for a range of ages, races and palates, it was alongside Deviled Eggs topped with Fried Oysters and Peppers that Fried Chicken was served, one attendee claiming it was one of the best things he’d ever tasted but almost immediately retracting that statement and replacing it with Chef Krohmer’s “Kentucky Fried Lobster.”
Familiar with nearly every plate from past visits, the Beef Tataki an exception that outpaces the version at Hatsumi thanks to thicker cuts atop breaded Mushrooms, those seeking one of Las Vegas’ best plates of Cephalopod need look no further than Grilled Octopus Adobo while the Jidori Chicken with Pork and Squash is also exquisite, though best with Pipian Mole that was served (by request) on the side.
Busy for a Thursday in the suburbs, the hand-crafted interior moody but welcoming and bar packed, there’s simply no denying the deliciousness of Other Mama’s Kim Chi Fried Rice unless one is entirely adverse to heat while grilled Branzino rounded out savories prior to an Apple Hand Pie with plenty of Cinnamon and housemade Vanilla Ice Cream.
FOUR AND A HALF STARS: Making a name for itself the right way, a combination of great ingredients, hard work and skill impressing almost everyone who walks through its doors, Other Mama remains one of the best answers to “where should I eat Off-Strip,” though for those who’ve been a few times it would be nice to see some new composed plates in addition to the daily Sushi specials.
RECOMMENDED: Organic Salmon Poke, Japanese Fried Chicken, Beef Tataki, Grilled Octopus, Kim Chi Fried Rice, Jidori Chicken.
AVOID: N/A.
TIP: The PDR can comfortably seat approximately a dozen. Please contact the restaurant to confirm cost and availability as a number of options are offered.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Croque Rosallie – Paris Ham, Sweet Onion Bechamel, Mozzarella Cheese, Croissant
Italian Prosciutto, French Saucisson, Paris Ham, French Brie Cheese, French Comte Cheese, Fresh Goat Cheese, Homemade Fig Jam, Candied Pecans, Cornichons, Olives
Brioche French Toast – Housemade Strawberry Puree, Pure Maple Syrup
Walnut Tarte
Almond Croissant
Blueberry Bostock
Raspberry Almond Croissant
Marble Cake Madeline
Cinnamon Roll
Pear Pie
Christmas Meringue
Custard Danish with Kiwi, Raspberries, Peaches, Strawberries and Blueberries
Now Las Vegas’ premier choice for French Pastry for over four years, many may not realize that Rosallie also offers off-site catering, but on Wednesday for #supportlocal lunch Christophe once again put together an outstanding spread of items both sweet and savory.
Easily arranged through owner Jonathan Pluvinet via ‘Le French Café’s’ e-mail, a budget of $15 per guest yielding enough quality cuisine to feed twice the office’s number of staff, it was twenty minutes early that all items were delivered and carefully arranged, Quiche temperature appropriate and the Lorraine gone quickly with the Chevre a bit less popular due to some guest’s low opinion of Goat Cheese.
Also serving Salad and Sandwiches, six Croque Rosallie disappearing before second shift even knew they existed, suffice it to say that Christophe’s Brioche proves equally exquisite wrapped around Bacon, Egg and Cheese as it does topped in housemade Preserves, each bite saturated in buttery Custard beneath a surface cooked golden.
Happy to see some Cheese and Charcuterie, an ideal accoutrement to Rosallie’s world-class Walnut Tarte, it was after a plate with plenty of Nuts and Fig Jam that Pastries took center stage, Jonathan’s Almond Croissant that is better than most in Paris an obvious choice, as too is the version upgraded with Raspberries.
Enjoying one more slice of Brioche, this with housemade Almond Paste and Blueberries baked in, the day’s only new Pastry came in the form of a Marble Cake Madeline that eats a bit more dense than its lemon-tinged cousin, while Rosallie’s Cinnamon Roll takes the American version in an entirely new direction by making it light and airy via laminated Dough.
Ready for Christmas in terms of décor plus sparkling Meringues, Cookies and Buche de Noel coming soon, more treats followed later in the day, Christophe’s Custard Danish reminiscing of summer while Pears inside a buttery Crust dance harmoniously with ground Nuts and Sugar.
N/A: Making it blog policy to not ‘rate’ places based on catering alone Rosallie remains Las Vegas’ premier French Bakery, and although located outside the tourist sector both Jonathan and Christophe’s continuous commitment to quality and customer service makes them worth the effort to visit, while off-site delivery and catering offer an even more convenient way to enjoy the Café’s unparalleled Pastries.
TIP: 7a-6p daily. Call or e-mail Info@rosallie.com ahead for pre-orders or catering and consider Yelp! (Grubhub) on-line delivery for smaller orders if you can’t make it to the store.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
www.rosallie.com
Rosallie Catering
Brioche Sandwich with Bacon, Egg, Mozzarella Cheese
Quiche Chevre – Sauteed Spinach, Roma Tomatoes, Fresh Goat Cheese
Quiche Lorraine – Hardwood Smoked Honey Cured Bacon, Savory Custard
Croque Rosallie – Paris Ham, Sweet Onion Bechamel, Mozzarella Cheese, Croissant
Italian Prosciutto, French Saucisson, Paris Ham, French Brie Cheese, French Comte Cheese, Fresh Goat Cheese, Homemade Fig Jam, Candied Pecans, Cornichons, Olives
Brioche French Toast – Housemade Strawberry Puree, Pure Maple Syrup
Walnut Tarte
Almond Croissant
Blueberry Bostock
Raspberry Almond Croissant
Marble Cake Madeline
Cinnamon Roll
Pear Pie
Christmas Meringue
Custard Danish with Kiwi, Raspberries, Peaches, Strawberries and Blueberries
Now Las Vegas’ premier choice for French Pastry for over four years, many may not realize that Rosallie also offers off-site catering, but on Wednesday for #supportlocal lunch Christophe once again put together an outstanding spread of items both sweet and savory.
Easily arranged through owner Jonathan Pluvinet via ‘Le French Café’s’ e-mail, a budget of $15 per guest yielding enough quality cuisine to feed twice the office’s number of staff, it was twenty minutes early that all items were delivered and carefully arranged, Quiche temperature appropriate and the Lorraine gone quickly with the Chevre a bit less popular due to some guest’s low opinion of Goat Cheese.
Also serving Salad and Sandwiches, six Croque Rosallie disappearing before second shift even knew they existed, suffice it to say that Christophe’s Brioche proves equally exquisite wrapped around Bacon, Egg and Cheese as it does topped in housemade Preserves, each bite saturated in buttery Custard beneath a surface cooked golden.
Happy to see some Cheese and Charcuterie, an ideal accoutrement to Rosallie’s world-class Walnut Tarte, it was after a plate with plenty of Nuts and Fig Jam that Pastries took center stage, Jonathan’s Almond Croissant that is better than most in Paris an obvious choice, as too is the version upgraded with Raspberries.
Enjoying one more slice of Brioche, this with housemade Almond Paste and Blueberries baked in, the day’s only new Pastry came in the form of a Marble Cake Madeline that eats a bit more dense than its lemon-tinged cousin, while Rosallie’s Cinnamon Roll takes the American version in an entirely new direction by making it light and airy via laminated Dough.
Ready for Christmas in terms of décor plus sparkling Meringues, Cookies and Buche de Noel coming soon, more treats followed later in the day, Christophe’s Custard Danish reminiscing of summer while Pears inside a buttery Crust dance harmoniously with ground Nuts and Sugar.
N/A: Making it blog policy to not ‘rate’ places based on catering alone Rosallie remains Las Vegas’ premier French Bakery, and although located outside the tourist sector both Jonathan and Christophe’s continuous commitment to quality and customer service makes them worth the effort to visit, while off-site delivery and catering offer an even more convenient way to enjoy the Café’s unparalleled Pastries.
TIP: 7a-6p daily. Call or e-mail Info@rosallie.com ahead for pre-orders or catering and consider Yelp! (Grubhub) on-line delivery for smaller orders if you can’t make it to the store.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
