Like all-things noma Juno the Bakery has garnered a lot of praise since opening, its location in an Østerbro residential building doing nothing to dissuade guests from lining up for a taste of goods baked by former noma Pastry Chef Emil Glaser.
Currently occupying a fraction of its original space, renovations promising more room to work and seat diners Wednesday to Saturday from 07h30 to 18h00 and Sunday from 09h00 to 15h00, early arrivers will find the team hard at work while a lone clerk tends to orders and another makes Coffee.
Priced similar to Hart, just four Pastries lining a row above Loaves and Rolls, it is after a quick queue that teeth can plunge into complex Sourdough impregnated with toasted Seeds or what many consider Scandinavia’s premier Cardamom Roll that is somehow both golden-brown on the outside and nearly the texture of Butter within.
Fortunate to receive all but the Roll warm, Pain au Chocolate shattering to yield molten insides, Nuts find themselves incorporated into every crevice of both Glaser’s Almond and Pistachio Croissant, the better version a toss-up since each are irreproachable in terms of their taste and texture.
Grilled Padron Pepper – Green Strawberry, Roasted Sunflower Seeds, Salted Green Rhubarb
Sencha Tea
Pea and White Currant Dumpling – Lemon Verbena
Cucumber Skin Dolma – Barley Koji
Elderflower, Black Currant
New Season Garlic and Onion – Whipped Cream
Radish Pie – Seaweed Shell, Horseradish Juice, Caper
Scoby Steak and Smoked Pumpkin – Jasmine Tea Kombucha, Marigold Chili Oil, Fennel Flower, Coriander
Rhubarb, Pine Shoots
Marigold Tempura – Egg Yolk, Whiskey
Fresh Egg cooked with Beets and Ramson – Wild Garlic
Potato wrapped in Sea Lettuce – Confit Gooseberry
Processed Sencha Cultivar Steeped 3 Days
Grilled young Artichoke – Chives, Lemon Thyme Flowers
Lion’s Mane Mushroom roasted with Wild Roses – Pumpkinbushi, Jasmine Tea, Wild Truffle
Jasmine Tea, Chamomile Tea, Raspberry
Chocolate Herb Salad
A Dessert of Oatmeal and Honey – Elderflower Ice Cream with Bee Pollen, Saffron
Marinated Honeycomb – Madagascar Pepper, White Chocolate
Double Espresso
A recurrent winner of “World’s Best Restaurant” in its original format and again capturing the top prize in 2021 noma needs no introduction, Chef René Redzepi’s creation of New Nordic Cuisine having shifted the landscape of fine dining over a decade before the Restaurant shuttered only to reopen in 2018 on the grounds of former wasteland.
Now a Michelin 3* destination, the shift towards three yearly menus with extensive R&D and an entirely custom-built space elevating the experience even further, a visit to noma begins with obtaining a hotly-contested reservation at the cost of DKK 3,000 plus another 1,000 for Juice – roughly $550USD all-in.
The flag-bearer of foraging and fermentation, ideas pioneered by the likes of Veyrat and throughout Japan brought front-and-center by Redzepi, Summer sees noma serving a wholly-Vegetarian menu where guests begin in a self-adjusting greenhouse with Tea before entering an expansive space featuring three dining areas, open kitchen, live-tanks plus room for experimentation and storage.
Employing a staff of over one-hundred including four full-time gardeners to feed just 42 diners a day, though this concept will again change soon, it is once seated that gracious servers deliver a seamless experience across four-hours, an opening Tart comprised of Potatoes plus Nasturtium exceedingly delicate prior to a Summer Salad featuring Berries, smoked Sauce and Fava Beans.
Undoubtedly putting a lot of thought into the pairings, Natural Wines versus Juice and Tea, herbaceous Cucumber Juice signaled the arrival of a grilled Pepper stuffed with unripe Strawberry and Seeds garnished by squeezable Rhubarb followed by a “Pea and White Currant Dumpling” encased in translucent White Currant “leather.”
Next wowing with a Dolma of Cucumber Skin filled with Barley Koji, somehow more complex than those stuffed with Lamb, assertive Elderflower-Black Currant Juice provides great balance to Young Onion Gel with Cream and a high-effort Radish Pie.
Designed to suggest a Nordic village, natural décor throughout an airy space flooded with light, “Scoby Steak” proves to be one of noma’s more conceptual dishes in its use of thick Kombucha Skin topped by Marigold Chili Oil while the Flowers find themselves Tempura-battered in follow up and ready to be dragged through Whiskey-fortified Egg Yolk.
Continuing with Rhubarb and Pine Shoots, a gooey Egg colored by Beets preceding Potatoes packed in Sea Lettuce with Gooseberry, “entrees” consisted of a grilled Artichoke taken whole from the Stem with Chives before a roasted Lion’s Mane Mushroom with sides of Sauce and Salad said to represent a “Steak Dinner.”
Rethinking the “palate cleanser” Salads of France with one including Chocolate and Herbs, more successful than it sounds, fragrant Tea lends perfectly to “A Dessert of Oatmeal and Honey” as well as its “chew and spit” chaser before a fond farewell and comprehensive look at everything that goes into being the “best,” whether one agrees with the term and assessment or not.
Tucked away in a Nyhavn sub-street space IsoBar has been serving guests seasonally for nearly 9 years, an old Italian recipe and locally-sourced Organic Milk meeting fresh Fruits plus imported Nuts in a wide-variety of flavors.
Prone to daily change and whimsy, flavors like Chocolate-Chili or Grapefruit offered alongside Licorice and dairy-free Sorbets, two-scoops will set guests back less than 50 DKK on a Waffle Cone, Caramel expectedly creamy with plenty of sweetness while Salted Peanut tastes precisely like its namesake.
Serving Copenhagen from the waterside since 1953 Vaffelbageren predates nearly all the city’s culinary destinations, a recipe from the 1920 still used to make Liege-style Waffles featuring five types of Sugar plus eighteen flavors of Ice Cream
Located in a Nyhavn basement, cattycorner counters creating a logjam of guests attempting to retrieve affordably-priced goods including 35 DKK scoops of cream Nougat, it is at tables outside that most will settle in amongst tourists with only a handful prone to wonder why Vaffelbageren chooses to compromise texture by microwaving Waffles when they’d be far better fresh made or at room temperature as they once were.
Side Cake – Chocolate Ganache, Caramel, Hazelnut Praline
Part of the Copenhagen dining scene since 2018 Hart Bageri has been a resounding success, so much that former Tartine Baker Richard Hart and his partners at noma decided to open a second location in Holmen late-2021.
Larger than the original in Frederiksberg, an old timber-framed building with indoor seating and a terrace looking towards the opera house, recipes here continue Hart’s style of rethinking tradition by way of myriad morning Pastries plus later-day choices such as Sourdough Pizza topped lightly with Sauce over a medium-thick Crust up to the perfect cornicione.
Prone to daily change and early sell-outs, a 14h00 arrival finding selections limited, it was alongside Coldbrew of locally roasted Beans that “Side Cake” showed well from the moist Chocolate Crumb to a trio of Toppings such that no two bites are alike.
Opened in 1906, the survivor of two World Wars achieving notoriety through the skills of Lars Siebert, it is now under the fifth-generation leadership of Anke Siebert that Bäckerei und Konditorei Siebert remains a destination on Schönfließer Strasse.
Serving Prenzlauer Berg beginning at 06h15 Tuesday through Saturday, lines generally present for items scratch-baked daily, the variety offered at Siebert ranges far and wide with Pastries dominating early hours while Sandwiches start to sell briskly prior to noon.
Rooted in classics, Berliners featuring various Jams including classic Plum Pfannkuchen weighty with filling inside an airy pocket, early arrivals should not miss Cinnamon Rolls loaded with Apples nor Cruller-like Spritzkuchen heavily topped with Glaze.
Equally liberal with Sugar atop Schweineohren, a Palmier or Oreja elsewhere, Siebert’s Streuselschnecke and Bienenstich each outperform those offered at Backerei Kadtler while seasonal Rhubarb Cake finds the Vegetable’s assertive flavor well-balanced by lightly-sweetened Sponge and Streusel.
Located at Danziger Strasse 135 in Prenzlauer Berg Backerei Kadtler has earned notoriety as a kosher bakery, all Flour pregelatinized and several items lacking Dairy with everything certified by the Rabbi of Berlin.
Serving the community since 2004, hours from 06h00 until 18h30 on weekdays often finding popular items sold out early, guests can expect quick service from staff that does not speak English but manages to do their best describing Pastries anyways.
Labeled in German with signage indicating a presence or lack of Cream and Butter, the Bienenstich two layers of yellow Sponge around Vanilla Cream beneath caramelized Almonds, Kadtler’s Mohnkuchen eats dense and nutty with a bit of sweetness on top while Currants and Quark make a laminated Danish stand out.
Keeping kosher with Streuselschnecke, soft Bread beneath Crumbles that taste buttery not lacking despite limited Ingredients, “Apfelkuchen mit Decke” roughly translates as Apple Cake with Blanket and although not Strudel warrants a look for varying textures plus plenty of Cinnamon.
Considering Berlin’s quarter-million residents of Turkish ancestry it is no surprise that the Wedding Neighborhood contains more than one shop dedicated to Baklava, Agam’s location on Stettiner Strasse the first of three and open from 06h00 to 20h00 daily.
Focused on traditional recipes at €14/kg pricing guests should presume to spend roughly €20 for a sample of all Agam has to offer, the choice of shapes and Pistachios versus Walnuts further complicated by versions with Cheese or Cocoa.
Offering a small seating area, though servers are not English-fluent, each piece is carefully placed in branded boxes to go, and although best eaten the same day most prove capable of maintaining at least some amount of crispness 24 hours later.
Still something of a “hidden gem” despite Berlin’s 250,000 residents of Turkish ancestry it was on the second-hand recommendation from Chefs at Ernst that three guests lined up at Örnek Lahmacun Evi on Monday, the Wedding eatery straddling a hair salon proving every bit worth the effort including a menu of traditional Turkish Cuisine and staff not fluent in English.
The definition of “no-frills,” a lack of indoor seating and limited room to move justified by a scratch-kitchen including Bread made on site, Ingredients rest in plain view while Meat sizzles on skewers and three men complete tasks ranging from stretching Dough to chopping Tomatoes.
Open daily with predominantly Turkish clientele, a middle-aged man making room at a communal table for three foreigners, it was via Google Translate that choices were made, the signature “Turkish Pizza” or Lahmacun thin and crisp but able to bend around minced Lamb, Peppers and spices.
Well known for Adana Dürum Kebaps, made-to-order in 15 minutes, Lamb is charred but still moist and made vibrant by Salsa-like Ezme plus Green Chilis that also find their way into hearty Kelle Paça Çorbası served alongside Pide that comes in handy for sopping up any residual liquid.
Also offering a few traditional sweets, Halka Tatli found throughout Wedding a sort of Churro soaked in fragrant Syrup, those in search of something less sweet are well advised to order a tray of Firinda Sutlac that eats like Rice Pudding crossed with Crema Catalana.
Tucked under the Magistrate’s Viaduct in Schönhauser Allee since Max Konnopke moved to Berlin there is probably no more iconic eatery in the capital than Konnopke’s Imbiss, the East Berlin stand surviving a World War, communism and reunification while serving up what is arguably the best Currywurst in town.
Begun with just Sausages in 1930, Currywurst becoming a focus one year later with Ketchup not offered till 1960, those visiting Konnopke’s Imbiss can expect long lines of folks entering or exiting the U-Bahn with folks from Prenzlauer Berg wait for tables alongside tourists from around the world.
No frills and fast-paced, elderly clerks moving the queue like a well-oiled machine, choices are made from mounted menus with €2,50 yielding a steamed and fried Pork Sausage sliced and covered with spicy Ketchup plus a shake of Curry Powder on top.
Juicy underneath a snappy Casing, the same to be said of a traditional Brat and Veal-based Bockwurst, fans of Mustard will find Konnopke’s more spicy than average while Fries cooked crisp and almost oilless are only €1 but generally in need of some extra Salt.
Said to be Europe’s first fully Vegan Donut Shop it was 2015 when Jessica Jeworutzki and Bram van Montfort opened Brammibal’s, a concept that has grown to six locations without sacrificing principles of quality sourcing, fair pay, sustainability and seasonality.
Part of trendy Potsdamer Platz since store number three in 2018, friendly and English-fluent service immediately making both Vegans and Omnivores feel welcome, it is by way of a constantly-evolving menu that Brammibal’s seeks to lure guests back while changing “the perception of plant based Food, one Donut at a time.”
Handmade daily with no preservatives, glowing neon reading “don’t eat animals” the company’s only bit of on-site preaching, July’s menu features fourteen Donuts plus Cinnamon Rolls, a monthly charity the benefactor of Tiramisu that looked good, but less compelling than “Strawberry Pretzel” juxtaposing a soft base with naturally flavored Glaze, dehydrated Fruit and salted twists coated in White Chocolate.
Eschewing Pfannkuchen offered elsewhere, though filled “Berliners” constitute a good portion of Brammibal’s choices, Peach Cobbler seems an oddly American choice executed flawlessly beneath Streusel one can’t believe is made without Butter while Salted Caramel Hazelnut retains its hole and achieves wonderful results in terms of both taste and texture.
Employing a full-time Pastry Chef for product development, the volume of a brand open up to twelve-hours daily requiring diligence to maintain consistency, those familiar with German Cuisine will realize Bienenstich is nothing to miss, €3,50 a certified bargain for locally-milled Flour, candied Almonds and lots of Vanilla Custard that somehow tastes as good as from a French Patisseries despite the lack of Milk or Cream.
Awarded 2 Michelin Stars FACIL Restaurant at Potsdamer Platz in The Mandala Hotel Berlin has been under the toque of Chef Michael Kempf for 19 years, its location on the 5th floor with an open air patio creating something of a sanctuary from the concrete and traffic outside.
Not the sort of place one stumbles upon, elegant surroundings including glass panels and fountains befitting upscale clientele, FACIL offers lunch and dinner Monday through Friday, the daytime a la carte menu an extraordinary bargain beginning at €28 plus twenty more for each additional plate.
Trained in Germany but not limited to region, both Ingredients and ideas casting a global net, service is gracious and accommodating beginning with housemade Bread plus a daily Amuse of creamy Corn concealing Mushrooms, Peppers and Seeds.
Opting for four-courses, though in reality seven accounting for extras, Chef Kempf’s seasonal Soup presents White Asparagus as silky Veloute poured tableside atop Vegetable Curls, Raspberries and cured bits of Egg.
Technique-driven with traditional flavors reinterpreted, Headcheese and Tripe converted from a rustic Stew into something refined by Lemon and Coconut plus crispy Potatoes, Guinea Fowl comes as a roasted Roulade without Bones alongside Vegetables and Nuts lightly cooked to highlight their natural taste and texture.
At this point turning things over to Thomas Yoshida, repeat winner of “Patissier of the Year” by Gault & Millau, Pear Sorbet bridged the gap to something of a Summer Mille-Feuille featuring eight layers ranging from Ganache to Tuile next to fragrant Basil Ice Cream.
Wrapping with Mignardises, Coconut with Bergamot and Mango alongside Caramel cloaked in Cacao, the modest bill of €95 may just be one of the best Michelin 2* deals in Europe when taking into account setting, service, Ingredients and cooking.
The story of three friends focused on sustainable local Ingredients it seems the only reason Albatross is not discussed as one of the “World’s Best Bakeries” is its lack of pretense, the minimalist space in Kreuzberg originally built on Sourdough but now offering everything from soft Pretzels and Babka to faultless Viennoiserie.
Open daily from 08h00 until 18h00 at Graefestrasse 66/67, a display window and benches out front both full on arrival, it is once inside that eyes widen to everything from Sandwiches to Cakes including a weighty Carrot slice that eschews sweetness in favor of tangy Cream Cheese, plenty of Walnuts and complex spices.
Taking “inspiration from traditional French, German and Italian techniques,” a Pretzel arguably Berlin’s best while Albatross’ Kouign Amann rivals those of Paris or Lyon, the Almond Croissant sees Frangipane replaced by ground Nut “Jam” beneath buttery twice-baked halves.
Humble inside and out, their products also available at a handful of shops across town, a local-seasonal focus currently finds housemade Brioche topped in Strawberries plus Rhubarb while an item simply labeled “Crème Brûlée” finds torched Custard inside flaky walls atop Raspberry Puree.
Located along a small river at Planufer 92 Die Brodstatte has been collecting accolades since opening in 2016, not to be confused with a similarly named space at Maybachufer Strasse “The Bread Station” is Danish in origin with a focus on long-fermented Sourdough, good Coffee and Pastries starting at 08h00.
Part of an upscale neighborhood, table hockey on the outdoor patio allowing guests an opportunity to pass the time, standing space inside Die Brodstatte is limited to a few square meters while the space’s bulk consists mainly of kitchen, racks and shelves.
Fair priced for items made of local Organic Grains, Weizen-Korner Stuck adding Cornmeal to aromatic Wheat for a more sophisticated crumb, Viennoiseries come in a wide range with expert lamination filled with melted Chocolate versus topped with Cheese or Sage.
Taking an alternative approach to Scandinavia’s famous Cardamom Knot, layered bits glued together with Sugar and Butter like Monkey Bread, The Bread Station’s Cinnamon Roll also earns high marks for its crisp coil that softens towards the center with subtle notes of Yeast tickling the palate in each bite.
With 6 locations in the German capital Spoonful promises a local take on Ice Cream, their reliance on local Ingredients ensuring freshness across Vegan or Dairy options currently served from carts outside their small shops.
Opting for the Wedding outpost, staff not fluent in English easily navigated in the case of Ice Cream, €4 yielded two small balls atop a crisp Waffle Cone, Hazelnut unfortunately gritty despite unaltered flavor while Honey Banana fared better in terms of texture with a focus on natural sweetness.
Milkbread, Ricotta, Eggplant Agedashi, Nori, Chili Oil
Tamago Tofu, Ponzu, Green Sansho, Peas
Rope Mussel, Carrot, Saffron, Paprika, Fennel
Quail, Herbs, Swiss Chard, Chicken Shiitake Jus
Watermelon Granita, Double Cream, Mint Granita
Almond Tart, Sicilian Peach, Hay Ice Cream
Although Michelin-starred Ernst continues to make waves climbing lists such as W50B its younger sibling Julius remains something of a hidden secret, Chef Dylan Watson-Brawn and his team taking the same Ingredient-centric approach across a concise 9 course tasting menu at the bargain price of €65.
Assisted by Spencer Christenson and a youthful staff, the minimalist interior largely white outside a kitchen in plain view, it is atop stainless-steel tables that guests who’ve pre-paid by Tock are first offered well-priced Aperitifs followed by Vegetable-focused starters such as chilled Watermelon Soup and Crudite intended to be dipped in salty Bagna Cauda.
No frills aside from professional service, waitresses and cooks taking turns delivering plates, Grey Bream Sashimi with Cassis eats no less inspired than the raw Fish at Ernst while Milkbread toasted beneath Cheese and lightly-fried Eggplant found added emphasis in Chili Oil.
Continuing with Tofu treated like an Omelette, its silky texture juxtaposing fresh Peas, rope-grown Mussels shined amidst Saffron and Paprika before a generous piece of Quail alongside Rainbow Chard with everything bathed in Mushroom-infused Pan Sauce.
Revisiting Watermelon as a palate cleanser, this time opposite Mint and fused by Cream, Dessert included a wedge of lightly-warmed Almond Pie topped in Sicilian Peaches plus slowly-melting Ice Cream made from Raw Milk steeped with Hay.
The second location from Berlin-native Samantha-Josephine Sawadsky it was Sunday around noon that SammyS Berliner Donuts on Rosenthaler Strasse was found quiet, full shelves and an English-fluent clerk making decisions complicated largely because Classic, Fancy and Special all looked delicious.
Not the sort of spot taking shortcuts, SammyS original location opened in 2019 setting a standard for scratch-made Pfannkuchen in the capitol, it is from the best local Ingredients that each item is created daily, a Cinnamon Roll showing soft coils loaded with Butter beneath Icing while the Plum Berliner one-upped the traditional Paczki in terms of lightness.
Professionally trained before turning to baking, a fact evident in SammyS proofing and housemade fillings, “Fancy” choices on this day consisted of local Berries matched to Whipped Topping plus unfilled-Maple with Pecans, though the best choice was titled “Lotus” featuring Belgium’s famous Biscoff rendered into Cookie Butter.
In terms of “cheap eats” Döner Kebab rivals Currywurst in the German capitol, competition on almost every block finding many calling K’ups in Prenzlauer Berg Berlin’s best even though it eschews traditional Veal for thinly-sliced Chicken.
Open from 11h00 until late daily, 03h00 on Friday and Saturday, K’ups resides in a concrete box with high-ceilings where staff prepare everything from scratch including Sauces, roast Vegetables and the slowly-rotating Meat on a skewer.
Offering indoor and outside seating, the made-to-order nature of everything from Gemusekebap to Falafel creating lengthy queues during peak hours, it is after parking at a wooden table that teeth plunge into warm Bread packed to bursting with warm Peppers, Squash, Eggplant and Potatoes plus chilled Lettuce, Cabbage. Tomatoes, Onions and Cucumbers.
Smart to order with “mit allem,” Garlic, Yogurt and a spicy red Sauce plus Feta and a dash of Seasoning, €4,70 in Bread or €5,70 in a Wheat Wrap will leave all but the most robust appetites sated, though fans and Vegetarians should not miss a side of two Chickpea Fritter fried golden and teaming with Herbs for €1,50.
From the team behind Mrs. Robinson’s Café Frieda is an all-day hangout promising “market-driven plates plus curated music,” the Breakfast menu fairly limited with precious pricing and staff whose attitudes match the hipster clientele.
Located on Lychener Strasse in Prenzlauer Berg, the former site of “Frida Kahlo” suggesting its name, Café Frieda opens at 10h00 but only offers the “all-day” menu from noon, early arrivers instead limited to housemade Sourdough and tiny Pastries barely sharable by two.
Changing the bill of fare frequently, an Insta-famous Buckwheat Croissant replaced by various slivers of Cake in a place where “we don’t serve tap Water, only bottles” is a thing, expect to pay approximately €1 per mouthful for trendy “Basque” Cheesecake without the rumpled char of Spain or forgettable Pound Cake while a Black Cacao Fudge slice offers silk-smooth texture and almost no Sugar or Flour but manages to succeed anyway.
Known for big crowds and creative flavors since 1974 Eis Christina is amongst Frankfurt’s most well-known eateries, warm weather prompting a post-dinner visit that saw the shop’s lighted queueing system moving guests quickly to smiling employees ready to take their order.
Using both inside and a window to serve, a billboard menu making suggestions for Sundaes large or “regular,” simple Stracciatella proved well-made with cascading ribbons of Chocolate while “Spaghetti Eis” smashed through a press created a textural dynamic prone to toppings such as boozy Cherries or Candy plus Sauce and Whipped Cream top and bottom.
