French Toast, Butter, Pure Maple Syrup, Prunes, Mascarpone Cheese
Thankful to have visited Canelé in Atwater Village during its prime it was immediately upon hearing their famous French Toast was back at Cosa Buona that Brunch was planned, a group of six sitting down around 11am at the otherwise empty space in Echo Park.
Located at 2100 Sunset Boulevard and only recently adding Brunch, Chef Zach Pollack of Alimento banking on the popularity of his brand to resurrect the unrelated Pizza Buona for nearly 18 months with mixed results, guests arriving between 10:30am and 2:30pm on weekends will find a menu slightly different from that offered during Lunch or Dinner service, though signatures of course remain.
Compact in size with big windows and an overly loud Pop-soundtrack, Bar beyond tables but in front of the kitchen, it was with only one server present that Water was filled while menus were perused, a total of five items tallying just over $80 including tax, tip and Soft Drinks.
Centered on Pies from a Wood-burning oven but not lacking in terms of variety, a collection of Antipasti, Salads and Sandwiches plus Brunch items under the heading “Mangia” also offered, it was beginning with a $6 wedge of Coffee Cake that great density was found amidst stewed Fruit and Streusel, Pollack’s highly-touted Mozzarella Sticks tasted next and expectedly stretchy beneath adherent Breading and a nice kick of Garlic in the Marinara.
Adding a side of “Potatoes Diavola,” the Spuds clearly fried more than once and extra crispy under spicy Sauce that can be tamed by either Ranch or Ketchup if desired, it was here that a six-slice Margherita Pizza arrived, the crushed Bianco DiNapoli Tomatoes naturally sweet and marrying nicely to blistered Crust, though a bit more Mozzarella and less shaved Parmesan would have made it more desirable.
Still otherwise empty nearly sixty minutes later, old friends catching up as they ate, those with fond memories of Canelé will quickly notice that Pollack’s French Toast arrives as only one slice and nowhere near as thick, the $15 cost a sign of the times in Los Angeles though the texture is still soft and Custard-soaked beneath Figs, Syrup and Mascarpone.
Brioche French Toast, Blackberries, Blueberries, Raspberries, Mint, Mascarpone, Pure Maple Syrup
Ricotta Buttermilk Pancakes, Coconut, Butter, Pure Maple Syrup
Coconut Rice Pudding, Pistachio, Matcha, Hazelnut
Previously enjoyed as Ledlow but unable to achieve success despite Josef Centeno’s other acclaimed Restaurants it was as a party of five that Brunch was ordered at PYT, the fact that not one diner was present at 10:00am on Sunday foreboding, though a two and six-top did arrive closer to eleven.
Apparently an acronym for Pretty Young Turnip, a Vegetable-centric approach perhaps originally felt to target Los Angeles’ health-conscious clientele, guests entering the revamped space at 400 South Main Street will quickly notice the room to be half its original size, the eastern section now blocked off for private functions or “overflow” while Pastries still suggested online as of writing are long gone as a result of poor sales.
Pleasant enough in terms of setting, a man introducing himself as a manager doing most of the work as additional staff busied themselves near the bar, it was after inquiring about “Croiss’innamon Rolls” and Scones that $5 each was invested in a Butter Croissant and two Caneles, the Viennoiserie over-proofed both visually and on the tongue while the latter were custardy but not crackling to the tooth and better without Matcha.
Next receiving complimentary boiled Peanuts, a staple of the South upgraded by Soy, Citrus and Spice, it was from the menu woefully out-of-date compared to online that three Entrees were chosen, $12 Avocado Toast actually well-priced in a city where such things often cost $18 and overall quite good thanks to toothsome Bread and rich Sheep’s Milk Cheese topped in Pumpkin Seeds plus Pickled Vegetables.
Less impressed by $14 French Toast, the Local Berries, Maple Syrup and Mascarpone all enjoyable but Brioche poorly saturated, it was fortunate that a youngster at the table requested Ricotta Pancakes tinged in Buttermilk and Coconut as both texture and taste were splendid, the Rice Pudding still listed today online with “Gianduja Mousse, Chocolate Shavings, Hazelnut” unfortunately less so as it was actually served with toasted Pistachios and more Green Tea Powder.
Full Stack Pancakes – Real Maple Syrup, Real Butter
Buttermilk Biscuit – Butter
Nick’s Breakfast Sandwich – Toasted Sourdough, Grilled Deli Ham, Scrambled Eggs, Cheddar, Strawberry Jam
Grilled Banana Nut Muffin
Grilled Carrot Muffin – Cream Cheese Icing
Established in 1948 by a man named Nick, the railroads and newly developing Chinatown creating a built-in clientele, Nick’s Café tells a unique story on the back of its menu, and owned since 2009 by boxing manager Rod Davis the old-school spot at 1300 North Spring Street continues to weave a tale in modern times that apparently does not look all that different from when the place opened its doors.
Still wrapped around a U-shaped and a hangout for firefighters as well as cops, the latter a result of decades under the management of LAPD, it is as a model train circulates tracks overhead that guests are offered seating both indoors and outside, a list of daily specials hung over the kitchen in addition to a list of diner staples made the old way and at a fair price.
Decorated in vintage signs and peddling T-shirts featuring General Manager Carlos Morales, “The Solution” a client of Rod’s for several years, it is on Nick’s famous Ham that many plates are built, a generous slice with Eggs for $15.50 “Cash Only” ordered thrice within earshot and freshly cut slices anchoring Nick’s $9.95 Breakfast Sandwich with Toast, Eggs, Cheddar and Strawberry Jelly creating a taste not dissimilar to an un-fried Monte Cristo.
Happy to see Pure Maple Syrup and “Real” Butter available for a small Fee, the fact that both have to be spelled out perhaps the only sign of Nick’s changing since it opened, suffice it to say that Buttermilk Flapjacks are scratch-made, fluffy and no-frills, the same to be said of Muffins available in a variety of flavors that are sliced, buttered and placed inside—down to the grill.
More impressed by Banana Nut than Carrot Cake, the suggested “Cream Cheese Icing” visually absent and thus lacking in sweetness, it was wrapping up with an a la carte Biscuit for two dollars that another surprise was found, the Drop-style exemplified by a buttery crumb that is light but not crumbly and excellent on its own or topped in housemade “Mix-Berry Syrup” with a viscosity more like Jam or Preserves.
Cardamom Apple Prune Cake – Date Toffee Sauce, Cream
With the ongoing success of Bestia Chef Ori Menashe had little to prove when he began planning Bavel, but from the stunning space to bold flavors that take Middle Eastern food in unexpected directions he has once again struck gold, reservations going fast and fashionistas lining up for walk-in seats while both local and national press sing the Restaurant’s praises.
Located in a converted warehouse downtown, the nearby 4th Street Bridge and chain-link fences indicative of an area that does not look to have been all that inviting in the recent past, it was moments prior to 5pm that a party of seven arrived to the sounds of staff chanting rhythmically behind closed doors, a lone hostess soon emerging and proceeding with the disorganized seating process that sees those with and without reservations slowly moving forward until all seats are filled both indoors and out.
Predictably loud even by Los Angeles standards, the high ceilings lined with innumerable air plants ricocheting voices elevated by Cocktails and Wine, guests outdoors are thankfully spared some volume in favor of blasting heaters that many will wish to have turned off, the staff not only accommodating but surprisingly well-informed regarding techniques and Ingredients used in the kitchen.
Broad scope but not over-reaching in terms of menu, Menashe and Pastry Chef Genevieve Gergis possessing a distinct style that makes Bavel more “theirs” than actually “Middle Eastern,” it is with Mezze including airy Hummus centered by housemade ‘Duck ‘Nduja’ that most tables get started, the Pita inflated and yeasty while toasted Buckwheat Bread presented alongside a photogenic smear of Foie Gras with dots of Date Puree also attests to a technically proficient Baker.
Not a cheap Restaurant, $15 for what amounts to two medium-sized Tomatoes amidst creamy Cheese and not much else likely to raise some eyebrows, it is in much more appropriate that tender Octopus arrives amidst Tomatoes of its own for $21, the citrusy Yogurt beneath cleverly juxtaposed against dehydrated Peppers and a variety of Herbs.
Showing off another style of Bread with “Malawach,” crispy strips cut and intended to be smeared with what amounts to a Century Egg and tangy Crème Fraiche infused with Yemeni Hot Sauce, it was after this that share plates were reset in anticipation of Entrees, the signature Lamb Neck Shawarma an undeniable stunner whether eaten as Protein on its own or with accoutrements atop yet another Middle-Eastern loaf called Laffa while the $38 Duck actually feels like a bargain considering the quality of both confit Leg and roasted Breast served on a sword atop Chicories.
Amused to see all kitchen staff clad in Menashe’s famous bandana, the open space teaming with action and more than capable of turning out a four course meal in ninety minutes, it was with nothing but a few Duck Bones returning to the back that Chef Gergis took center stage, her “Rose Clove Chocolate Donuts” airy like Beignets and exemplary whether dipped in Chocolate or Sherry Diplomat Cream while a baked pocket of Strawberry and Cream Cheese ate much like an Empanada, the far more interesting finisher described as Cardamom Apple Prune Cake essentially Sticky Toffee Pudding with bold aromatics and plenty of Cream to offset exceedingly sweet Date Caramel.
Kids Scoop Apple Brandy & Pecan Pie on a Sugar Cone
Kids Scoop Peppermint Bark Cocoa on a Sugar Cone
Familiar with Salt & Straw since a trip to Portland in 2013, three visits in a week plus two to follow in Los Angeles and Venice, it was with “fanboy” status admitted that the new location in the Arts District was visited following Manuela, this season’s flavors not zany like those of Halloween or Thanksgiving but all impressive as usual.
Still Los Angeles’ hippest place for a frozen treat, the location opened in 2015 larger than others with both seating and a full display from San Francisco’s Dandelion Chocolates, it was finding the line short around 3:00pm that tastes were had of Coffee & Bourbon plus Avocado & Oaxacan Chocolate Fudge before making tough choices, the “Sugar Plum Fairy” losing out last second largely due to a personal affinity for Pecan Pie.
Additionally impressed by Dark Chocolate with housemade Peppermint Bark and smooth Vegan Sorbet made with Coconut Milk and Strawberries, suffice it to say that even with stomach full there was still room for a Kid’s scoop of Apple Brandy & Pecan Pie on a Sugar Cone, the booze from Clear Creek infused to Vanilla Custard with still-gooey gobs of Pecan Pie Filling throughout.
With the slow revitalization of Downtown Los Angeles there is no area that has changed as much over the last five years as The Arts District, a collection of Restaurants joining galleries, clubs and bars with Manuela emerging in late 2016 as part of Hauser & Wirth at 901 East 3rd Street.
Built out the old Globe Mills Complex and now featuring rotating exhibits alongside shopping, Food and Beverage, the latter two overseen by Chef Kris Tominaga, it is immediately upon entering the fluid indoor/outdoor space that guests will notice a small sign introducing Manuela, though the overflowing patio will probably catch eyes first as will the stylish interior.
Best described as “New American,” or perhaps “Farm to Table,” the Restaurant’s reliance on local farms and purveyors reading like a virtual who’s who across menus for lunch, brunch and dinner, it was midday Saturday that options were perused for a party of six, fifteen items slowly rolled out by servers including one green haired woman who seemed stoned or lost as she wandered aimlessly and spilled Lattes unapologetically when placing them on the table.
Not a cheap Restaurant, but at the same time lower priced than many SoCal hotspots that put far less effort into sourcing, it was with locally roasted Beans in the form of Cold Brew that Brunch began, Beignets piled with Powdered Sugar disappointing as they were flat and doughy though everything was on the up-and-up following first bites of a golden Cinnamon Roll liberally topped with toasted Pecans and housemade Caramel.
Transitioning swiftly to savories, a request for items to be coursed out only loosely followed, it was alongside pricey but impactful Cornbread that the first of two Burgers was divided, housemade Chorizo topped in Red Onions and the glue of Egg Yolk plus Avocado delighting even those averse to spice while a Pear Salad with Bacon, Feta and Pecans also dazzled in terms of sourcing and composition.
In a way repeating course two at this time with a quartet of Bread, Burger and Salads, the “Broccoli di Ciccio” unfortunately coming up short as “Sheep’s Cheese” was thin and funky Milk that overwhelmed everything, it was leaving much of that $12 behind that attention turned to fluffy Biscuits with impressive Pear Butter alongside finely ground Venison on a bun with vibrant Garlic Aioli, though Tominaga’s best dish on this day may just be seasonal Fuyu Persimmons topped in African Pepper, French Feta and Bee Pollen plus sweetened Vinegar.
Continuing an impressive display of Vegetables with Shell-on Peas topped in diverse textures and flavors, the Sesame and Dates forming unexpected dance partners, it was returning to Persimmons that Pancakes made of Cornmeal proved lighter than most would assume while ground Corn that had been fried formed the base to hearty Mushroom Ragu crowned by an Egg and tangy Crème Fraiche.
Only aware of Desserts available during Brunch by calling in advance, the staff already assured of 20% autograt overzealous to turn a table, it was here again that Manuela delivered by way of Cookies featuring puddles of Dark Chocolate plus world-class French Silk improved by Tonka Bean Whip, though the smooth Lemon Verbena Ice Cream stole the spotlight for others.
Imported from D.C. in April of 2017, and greeted by Angelinos with mixed responses as everyone in SoCal comes armed with an opinion on their favorite spot for Fried Dough, it was gathering provisions for *The Game* that a stop was made at Astro Doughnuts & Fried Chicken, a movie shoot down the street plugging up traffic but an arrival before the store’s 9am opening finding doors unlocked and the staff friendly as can be.
Located on West 6th Street downtown, parking as such a challenge or charged during most times, it is immediately on entry that guests will note a sizable kitchen behind the counter with fryers, mixers, warmers and ovens prominent behind staff folding Dough, the smell faintly of Yeast but also savory Spices attesting to the dual nature of a menu with most items offered all-day but some specific to Breakfast or Lunch and Dinner.
Officially Astro’s only West Coast outpost, one closer to the Capital experienced years prior, it was while conversing with an employee about sports that selections were made, a total bill of around $40 steep by some standards but not in Los Angeles and most certainly not in comparison to nearby competition such as Blue Star or Birdie’s.
Taking items to go, everything carefully packed for what amounted to a seven minute drive, it was with Ohio State already leading that Fried Chicken on a “Savory Doughnut” was tasted, the Bird nicely brined and cooked through despite being thick though the Breading did not appear to add much flavor in comparison to either this “Bun” or the Cheddar Biscuit slathered in Honey Butter.
Leaving a second honeyed Sandwich covered in Hot Sauce to others, the sweet and savory combination delighting the group’s 11 year old, it was here that Doughnuts took center stage, a special offering Bourbon Glaze and candied Pecans immediately making friends by way of its springy texture and textural juxtaposition while a square of Peanut Butter and Jelly took a similar approach but doubled down by stuffing the center.
Trying a naked Cheddar Biscuit next, the Cheese well integrated and Dough presumably laminated to achieve such separation, those in need of Pumpkin next got their fix by way of creamy Pie Filling and Crust crumble, though in terms of “Autumn” no one disagreed that stewed Apples and Cinnamon beneath a thin red Candy Shell was better.
Finishing with flavors presumed to be heavier, Astro’s famous Crème Brulee still the best of its kind thanks to a lightly burned linger to balance sugary Custard, it was unfortunate that Chocolate Cake proved a bit dry in a ring titled “Birthday Cake” because the Cocoa Buttercream was divine.
Galleta Grajea, Galleta de Sandia, Galleta Happy Face
Mango Tres Leches
Serving the City of Angels for nearly seventy years it was just past 7:30am on Saturday that the drive was made to El Gallo Bakery, an arrival in East Los Angeles before eight avoiding traffic but finding the small parking lot packed and a queue of patrons already growing.
Founded in 1949 by a siblings from Mexico, a lifetime helping at their father’s Panaderia south of the border providing skills that would serve them well, guests entering the low-slung place nestled amongst Taquerias and Bodegas will find confines cramped but charming, a U-shaped flow around tables lined in goods offering what must be at least one hundred types of Cake and Pan Dulce.
Said to be one of California’s best Mexican Bakeries and still decidedly authentic, Magdalena Martinez-Huerta’s recipes handed down to Jesus who upgraded equipment decades later to scale-up production, it is with most items unlabeled that staff proves happy to explain contents and traditional names, the choice to begin with Concha immediately attesting to better-than-average Flour as the base is yeasty but not dry beneath crunchy Vanilla Sugar.
Ranging from Sweet to Savory but arranged in no particular pattern, baking cups filled moist Sweet Corn Pudding right next to Reposteria such as laminated Puff Pastry filled with Cherries, Pineapple and Almond Paste, it is well-advised that those seeking an unexpected delight invest in at least one item filled with Apples, the typical “Pie Filling” eschewed for Cinnamon-stewed chunks and in the case of what can best be described as a Danish also dusted in buttery Streusel.
Perhaps best known for Cuernos De Mantequilla, El Gallo Bakery’s take on the Croissant quite possibly using more Butter than those in Paris or Lyon, another highlight is delivered by the simple Sweet Cream Empanada while an item listed as “Rieles” takes the same filling and matches it to Guava Jam thus raising the bar even higher.
Always leery of Besos, though Huerta’s version listed as Ojos de Buey is anything but dry and thus a textbook example, it was in three Sugar Cookies including one smile and another decorated like Watermelon that more enjoyable bites were found while the Tres Leches saved for last was wet but not sopping and topped in a Chamoy-covered Mango for those who prefer things a little less sugary.
Simply known as Philippe’s by most, though actually titled “Philippe the Original” since opening in 1908, it would be difficult to name any more venerable Restaurant in Los Angeles than the one at 1001 North Alameda Street, and from the newspaper clippings and sawdust to old Lakers and Dodgers swag there is perhaps no greater indication of the space’s enduring popularity than an early morning visit that still finds them busy with LAPD, Senior Citizens and even young families.
Named for French immigrant and original owner Philippe Mathieu, the current Chinatown address home since 1951, guests entering Philippe’s will immediately feel awash with nostalgia no matter which door they select, one proximate to a deli counter staffed by pleasant servers and the other an old-timey register lined with Chewing Gum and convenience items not unlike the corner stores of 1950’s America.
Built for volume, an elderly server overheard saying that even during Dodger’s off-season Philippe the Original expects to sell over two thousand Sandwiches daily, it was the “first of the day” that found itself on a tray before 7:00am, self-service water from a tap in the dining room where communal tables stand ready for lunch and dinner rushes.
Famous for the “French Dipped Sandwich” reportedly invented by Mathieu, a price under $10 still bargain-basement by 2018 SoCal standards, it was with medium thickness Beef stacked on fresh baked Bread that the Sandwich was tasted first “dry” then plunged into Jus, the Protein surprisingly supple and rich while the French Roll maintains its composition without becoming soggy or losing the crispness of its Crust.
Still too early for Salads, Sides or Pickles and not yet offering Pie it was instead in two Breakfast treats that 90 cents and $3 were invested, the still-warm Doughnut light for Cake and generously coated with Cinnamon and Sugar while a wedge of Coffee Cake weighing about half-a-pound was moist with Butter and fluffy around and topped with Streusel.
Samples: Jesus Juice, Maple Walnut, Coconut & Shoyu Caramel, White Russian Black Forest
Double on a Sugar Cone – Secret Breakfast, Blue Bottle Coffee
Kids Maple Walnut on a Sugar Cone
Having first tasted Humphry Slocombe nearly a decade prior while visiting San Francisco it was exciting to learn the brand had recently expanded to Los Angeles, and with a location at the inland end of Abbot Kinney Boulevard a post-dinner stop seemed ideal, though a complete dearth of patrons in comparison to Salt & Straw’s twenty-deep line just up the road tells a tale about Food in 2018.
Owned by Jake Godby and Sean Vahey, the plain-Jane appearance of their Mission flagship transported to So. Cal. with a few Instagramable flourishes, it was in perusing ten flavors with tastes of most that the a sudden realization occurred that what once seemed “weird” now feels mundane, the base still one of the best but only Coconut & Shoyu Caramel attesting to ongoing creativity even as brands including Jeni’s, Rori’s, Wanderlust and others have continued to push the envelope nationwide.
Chuckling at Used Spoon bins labeled “Dirty, Filthy and Nasty,” the two servers pleasant and efficient, it was with little debate that a decision was made to invest in old favorites, the Secret Breakfast still an all-time favorite thanks to caramelized Cereal and booze with yeasty a yeasty linger while Blue Bottle Coffee came across creamier than recalled but still with enough bitterness to avoid register more Espresso than Latte.
Tonnarelli Cacio E Pepe – Black Pepper, Pecorino Fulvi
Mezze Maniche alla Carbonara – Guanciale, Egg, Black Pepper, Pecorino Romano DOP
Budino di Nocino – Whipped Cream, Walnut Croccante
Tiramisu – Lady Fingers, Mascarpone, Cocoa
Crostata ai Frutti di Bosco – Blueberry, Blackberry, Raspberry, Penne Montete
Having avoided Bucato due to its senseless photography policy, though nonetheless intrigued by Chef Evan Funke’s old-world approach to Italian traditions, it was as a party of seven that reserved seats were filled at Felix Trattoria on Black Friday, a bypassing of the Walk-in line quickly placing guests in a rounded alcove with full view of the Bar and Pasta Room.
Open since April 2017 and still one of Southern California’s hottest tickets, the fanciful digs on Abbot Kinney and a moneyed local crowd assuring a packed house seven days a week, it was while waiting to check in at 5:30pm that Chef Funke was first seen at the pass before entering the room hashtagged #fuckyourpastamachine, he and one assistant taking turns kneading, stretching and cutting Dough of various sizes.
Not sticking to one specific region despite Evan’s training in Bologna, the menu instead traveling North, South, East and West while utilizing a combination of Organic Californian Produce plus imported ingredients from Italy, it was after lengthy perusal that a dozen savories were selected, Felix’s Instagram-famous Sfincione arriving shortly and glistening with Olive Oil plus crunchy flecks of Sea Salt added for texture.
Predictably an expensive Restaurant, the real estate and product both prime while service is guaranteed an additional 24% by way of Auto-grat plus Health Care surcharge on top of the bill plus 10% sales tax, it was after a brief pause that three Appetizers arrived, the Ricotta-stuffed Squash Blossoms enjoyable but in no way worth $5.10 each while compact Meatballs with a rich porky sapor and oblong Arancini were amongst the best of their kind, the latter especially thanks to bits of Jowl adding flavor to the Rice.
Told not to sleep on Felix’s Pizza, $34.32 all-inclusive making the Mortaio possibly America’s most pricey Neapolitan, suffice it to say that for those who don’t *need* Tomato Sauce these 12-inches somehow seem like a bargain beneath lemon-slicked Ricotta, Pistachios and Pork while the first two Pastas attested to Funke’s time and effort with the Sardinian Gnocchi offering a proper foil to tomato-y Ragu while ribbons of Pappardelle cooked al dente stand up to Bolognese Meat stew and plenty of aged Parmigiano Reggiano.
Moving on to a second round of Pasta, the Secondi not nearly as intriguing despite their price, it was in proper Potato Gnocchi that the evening’s next stunner was found as Dumplings might have floated away if not for their Oxtail anchor, the double-fried Potatoes and bold Broccoli fine but really just taking up space better saved for $30.17 Cacio e Pepe or Carbonara that would have benefitted from less Salt but was otherwise texturally masterful.
Finishing sweet with half of the Trattoria’s six Desserts, one a Fruit Tart and another silky Pudding, it would be hard to call any “great” since there are better versions of each found elsewhere, but for those who prefer their Tiramisu with a lot of booze the large bowl offers plenty without being “wet” thanks to the well-made sponge and whipped Mascarpone.
Based out of Carpinteria and slowly expanding along the California coast it was late-afternoon on Black Friday that Rori’s Artisanal Creamery in Santa Monica was visited, the scoop shop at 910 Montana Avenue a bit understaffed as one of two workers was at lunch but the young lady still diligently letting guests taste flavor after flavor with a smile on her face.
Built on the hard work of Chef Rori Trovato and a base from Straus Family Creamery, the high Milk Fat percentage yielding a smooth consistency to which all-natural local ingredients are added, it was after tastes o Salty Caramel, Malted Milk and sticky English Toffee that decisions were made, an “Itty Bitty” Ball of Pistachio kissed by Black Pepper for just $2.50 bigger than expected and downright brilliant as the heat registers mid-palate with sweetness up front and nuttiness lingering.
Making Cones on-site and additionally offering a few baked goods it was between licks that two Cookies additionally spoke well of ownership, the Snickerrdoodle not about to make converts of those who complain the Cookie is too dry but still good though another round offering up Oats, puddles of Chocolate and generous amounts of Coconut Solids is so soft and chewy that it eats like a handheld bowl of Oatmeal without so much sweetness as to overwhelm.
Queso Napolitano – Vanilla Flan, Oaxacan Cheese, Traditional Caramel Sauce
Hidden in plain sight at Mercado La Paloma in South Los Angeles and known for Yucatecan-style Cuisine it was on Black Friday that lunch was sought at Chichen Itza Restaurant, the counter-style service and communal seating reminiscent of what is commonly offered in Mexico while the Food itself also delivers a high degree of authenticity.
Focused on a region most experienced diners know but may not be entirely familiar with, Pork marinated in Orange perhaps most famous but the use of Turkey and Achiote less appreciated, it was after lengthy perusal of an overhead menu that decisions were made, each of seven plates to follow beautifully executed and full of bold flavors without being so hot as to dissuade more timid palates.
Mistakenly ordering Horchata to compliment the meal, a mother’s acquiescence to her child yielding two large cups of chalky mix, it was setting this aside and people-watching a diverse crowd that ten minutes passed prior to Food arriving, first bites of Black Beans and Rice showing a generous use of Herbs that continued with earnest across Tacos featuring handmade Tortillas wrapped around charred Chicken and smoky Tomato Sauce plus another pair loaded with crispy Pork Skin.
Moving next to more regional preparations, the tender Turkey atop fried Tortillas sandwiching pureed Black Beans a multi-textured marvel with bold flavors to match, it was in follow-up that a baked Tamale proved even more interesting, a crunchy outer-layer quickly giving way to sweet Masa around Chicken and soft Eggs given earthiness by Epazote.
Finishing the Tamale by dipping it in vibrant Red Sauce without a lot of spice, a big plate of Cochinita Pibil for just $12.99 saved for last proving exquisitely supple without much fat, it was on request that two Desserts arrived last, the sopping wet expectedly not everyone’s cup of tea but wonderful for those who love Pudding while Flan built on Cheese from Oaxaca was springy and well-imbued with Vanilla that played well off caramelized Sugar Syrup.
Baked French Toast, Roasted Apple, Maple Syrup, Powdered Sugar
Peanut Butter Rice Krispy Cookie
Gran Fondo Cookie
Superba Churro, Horchata Cream
Almond Croissant
Although Jason Neroni long ago left for Rose Café and James Trees came back to Las Vegas with Esther’s Kitchen it was still with excitement that Superba Snacks + Coffee was visited in Pasadena, the Restaurant opened in September featuring an open air design similar to its Food + Bread siblings though the menu has been truncated significantly.
Still something of a hidden gem, an address at 12 South Arroyo Parkway allowing for plenty of free parking with Pasadena’s plethora of Craftsman-style homes not far off, guests entering the newest Superba will quickly find themselves face-to-face with a small stand offering menus and pre-order forms, a bar full of snacks oddly including Pringles behind it while the service counter resides right.
Perhaps best thought of as a Bakery and Café, a rack of housemade Pastries on display with Salads, Sandwiches and more made-to-order from a small kitchen, it was after concocting a seven part order that tables were rearranged to accommodate five, first bites of a Pop Tart filled with pureed Pumpkin and Baking Spices a reminder of Thanksgiving just-passed while Superba’s Kouign Amann reminisced of Carlos Enriquez’s tenure as Pastry Chef thanks to intense caramelization and plenty of layers with a liquid Butter middle.
Laid back and oh so California, almost every four-top occupied by parallel partners no longer eating but basking in the ambiance, it was with name called out from the counter that “Baked French Toast” was collected, the saturated Bread in cast-iron a far cry from what was once offered in El Segundo though still featuring quality ingredients while two Cookies both showed well, particularly one dubbed “Gran Fondo” that was built on a base of Oats and fortified with plenty of Butter, dried Fruit and Flax Seeds.
Hoping to have saved the best for last, a pair of Croissants visually calling out from Baker’s racks, it was beginning with the Sugar-coated Superba Churro that shattering shell led to honeycombing and light Horchata Cream, the follow-up Almond version unfortunately not executed nearly as well and frankly disastrous with an overly sweet interior and soggy bottom that eats as one might imagine a microwavable Frangipane Hot Pocket.
Two Scrambled Eggs, Sausage, Hash Browns, White Toast
Bacon and Cheese Omelet, Hash Browns, Wheat Toast
Cheeseburger, Pickles, Lettuce, Tomato, Thousand Island Dressing
Butterscotch Meringue Pie
Boysenberry Pie
Carrot Cake
Pecan Roll
Located in Pasadena and lauded by both locals and critics since 1963 it was for Breakfast on Black Friday that a stop was made at Pie ‘N Burger, a 7:30am arrival finding the traditionally packed place only half full as one grill man cooked while two servers took care of customers.
Occupying 913 East California Boulevard and presumably unchanged for at least forty years, mismatched bathroom doors, bolted bar stools and cash-only policy included, it was belly-up to the Bar that five guests were offered menus in addition to one overhead, the prices seemingly high considering ingredients on display but the service both friendly and efficient.
Famous for both eponymous items but also offering a full-slate of Breakfast Plates from open to close, housemade Bread used for Toast another hallmark, it was beginning with Hot Chocolate and freshly Whipped Cream that dining commenced, a $12.50 two-Egg Omelet with Bacon and Cheese predictably boring as was the scramble though thinly shaved Hash Browns and three varieties of housemade Jam do attest to a kitchen willing to put in some work rather than outsourcing everything like many others.
Next taking a look at the $9.50 Burger with a 50-cent slice of American Cheese, absolutely nothing including size or grind more impressive than what one might find at Wendy’s, it was with high hopes that teeth sank into a bite of Pie ‘N Burger’s Pecan Roll, the amount of Butter melted on top at least giving it some heft though that certainly did not make up for the lack of sweetness or overall doughy texture.
Moving next to Pies and Cakes, a bit of research and the waitress’ words dubbing Boysenberry the best, it was indeed fortunate that a fruit-filled $6.50 slice was ordered as it outperformed everything else dramatically, particularly overly-dense Carrot Cake with almost no sweetness but also the “Butterscotch” Meringue which tasted nothing like booze but more like sugary Pudding beneath a cloud of Egg Whites.
Originally opened in San Gabriel around 2011 and since expanding to Pasadena it was following Dinner at Mama Lu’s Dumpling House that something sweet was sought from Oh My Pan Bakery & Tea, the strip-mall space not particularly busy on Thanksgiving at 7:30pm though several tables were occupied by young Asian folks, most of whom were busy with books or computers while sipping Milk Tea.
Listed at 801 East Valley Boulevard and bigger than it appears from the street, an L-shaped room surrounding the counter and kitchen with shelves lined by Breads both savory and sweet, it was after perusing the options that six items were selected, the first five presented immediately while servers warned the last would take approximately twenty minutes to prepare.
Family owned and known for making everything on-sight, the LA Times having once called their Taro Bun the Valley’s best, it was beginning with a version stuffed by Red Bean that first impressions were formed, the dough itself soft and lightly sweet while Paste was thick but not sticky, a follow-up infused with Matcha performing even better as both Red Bean and Taro were spread thin and thus not quite as overwhelming of the Bread’s subtleties.
Low priced in comparison to traditional European Bakeries and even most Artisanal Doughnuts in 2018, a soft spiral with lots of Black and White Sesame enjoyed next for just $1.60, it was here that two chilled items featuring Cream took center stage, the “Chocolate Crunchy Cake” living up to its name with Cocoa Buttercream and thin sheets of Feuilletine inside while a $1.80 Hokkaido Cream Cake ate like a cloud of Angelfood balanced atop Chantilly Cream.
A bit confused by the slow expediting of Beverages, a youngster’s Tea arriving only two minutes before the dine-in only finale, suffice it to say that Oh My Pan’s Volcano Strawberry Toast lives up to both the hype and $10.95 price with Jenga-style Bricks nicely toasted and stacked beneath a giant ball of Ice Cream and plenty of Sauce, the fact that it is virtually impossible to cut with provided Plasticware besides the point as a better bet is simply toppling the tower and using individual slices to scoop and sop by hand.
One of three locations in Monterey Park, two of them actually on the same Street, it was after a four hour drive from Las Vegas that five guests checked-in at Mama Lu’s Dumpling House, the online wait list actually placing everyone in queue at West Garvey Avenue but the staff at 153 East Garvey easily finding a table in the back just moments after arrival.
Described as “a traditional Chinese family style restaurant with a Taiwanese twist” and lauded by Jonathan Gold for Shanghai-ese specialties encompassing a wide-range of Dumplings, Noodles and more guests entering the original location will immediately notice a bold aroma of cooking Meats coming from the small kitchen, an almost entirely Asian crowd attesting to authenticity as does the fact that one specific server seems to be charged with serving all English-speaking patrons.
Limited in terms of ambiance but nicely spaced, a combination of booths and tables with seating for perhaps eighty, it is with advertising mats and hot tea already in place that diners are left to peruse a menu of 102 choices, the most famous listed up front and one to two plates per diner probably more than enough unless they are particularly hungry.
Priced on average from $5-$10, a whole Chicken for $19.99 by far Mama Lu’s most expensive option, it was eventually settling on seven items that plates began to arrive as ready, the famous Beef Roll first and more than the size of a Burrito with plenty of seared Meat and Vegetables inside of a crispy Pancake with just enough stretch to keep it from shattering and getting messy.
Using a duo of Vinegar Cucumbers and Sugared Peanuts to refresh the palate between items, a fragrant Green Onion Pancake for just $2.99 not dissimilar to the Beef Roll’s Wrap arriving next, those looking for something a little more “Dim Sum” will no doubt wish to check out Mama Lu’s Fried Pork Buns, the addition of Sesame Seeds providing extra depth of flavor and texture while Pan Fried Dumplings offered eight for $5.99 are virtually oilless and packed with tender Pork and Scallions.
Next receiving Mama Lu’s second signature item, the Xiao Long Bao many consider Los Angeles’ best offering a dainty Wrapper that does not tear with Chopsticks around plenty of Hot Soup, it was in an enormous pile of Shanghai Chow Mein slicked in Soy that additional appetite was spent, though those looking for something sweet should not overlook item #17 which delivered eight pieces of deep-fried Coconut Bread and a bowl of Condensed Milk for dipping.
Buttermilk Biscuit – Butter, Housemade Strawberry Jam
Roasted Turkey Dinner – Mashed Sweet Potatoes, Old School Dressing, Carrots, Baby Green Beans, Grilled Corn on the Cob, Rosemary Gravy, Cranberry Sauce
Big O’ Turkey Pot Pie – Cracker Crust Hat filled with roasted Turkey, shaved Sweet Corn, Mushrooms, Broccoli, Carrots, Red Potatoes, Pan Gravy with hand-mashed Potatoes
Opting out of setting the table, doing dishes and worrying about how long the Turkey should be cooked it was as a party of thirteen that Thanksgiving took place at Hash House A Go-Go in 2018, the previous year’s menu offered again at the same price and around $20 per person (including drinks, tax and tip) more than enough to send everyone home stuffed.
Selecting the West Sahara location this year instead of Henderson, reservations made several weeks in advance assuring a table at 11:30am with every other seat in the house packed, it was into a side room with other large parties that guests were led, a pre-planned order avoiding indecision and seeing Food delivered in less than twenty minutes.
No stranger to HHaGG or Midwestern Thanksgiving, the Restaurant out of San Diego doing an excellent job at recreating the plates and portion sizes seen back home in Ohio, it was first that six jumbo Biscuits were split and topped in Butter and Jam, the fluffiness improved upon from last time while three “Big O’ Turkey Pot Pies” took the same Dough and rolled it thin to create a rimmed bowl that was filled with tender Vegetables and roast Turkey plus plenty of Mashed Potatoes and Gravy around the base.
Predictably watching Detroit lose to Chicago while dining, another annual tradition dating back to childhood, it was next that Hash House’s Roasted Turkey Dinner took center stage, the $17.99 plate easily enough to feed two adults or more with a variety of Thanksgiving favorites including plenty of dark and light Meat plus grilled Corn and particularly good Stuffing.
Passing on Pumpkin Pie but certainly not ignoring America’s favorite Squash it was in two orders of each that lunch concluded with Pumpkin Pancakes and Bread Pudding, the former a fluffy hubcap drizzled in Cream Cheese Frosting with a sidecar of fake Maple Syrup while the Bread Pudding was changed from 2017 and cut into slices before baking which helped make it less dry even before liberally adding warm Caramel Sauce.
THREE AND A HALF STARS: Improved from last year’s Henderson experience Thanksgiving at Hash House a Go-Go offers value proportionate to quality and good service plus plenty of specials in addition to their usual menu all while allowing guests to watch the game and forget about doing dishes.
RECOMMENDED: Big O’ Turkey Pot Pie, Old School Dressing, Pumpkin Cinnamon Roll Flapjack (BYO Real Maple Syrup)
AVOID: Artificial Maple Syrup remains a Pet Peeve and Bread Pudding was fairly bland without the Sauce.
TIP: Although everything but Biscuits was a daily special those looking for a great Pot Pie can bring a friend and share the Big O’ CHICKEN Pot Pie every other day of the year.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Pumpkin Cinnamon Roll – Sticky Bun-style, Sugared Pecans, Cinnamon-Bourbon Frosting
Serving guests at the Hard Rock Hotel & Casino for two decades it can safely be stated that Mr. Lucky’s is a Las Vegas icon, and although plans for the space have not yet been announced as Virgin looks to renovate in 2019 the new menu from Chef Chad Castanino offers a level of diversity and craftsmanship that many may not expect from a 24/7 spot just off the gaming floor.
Visited twice prior for Breakfast and Dinner, the new collection of plates doing away with arbitrary definitions and truly all-day, it was with greetings from a young woman at the hostess stand that five guests were led to a long table overlooking the open kitchen, the week preceding Thanksgiving predictably quiet with only two other parties occupying the vast space decorated by Rock paraphernalia.
Treated to tunes by Queen, The Rolling Stones and Aerosmith while dining, an order focused on variety seemingly the best approach, it was with one Tequila-based Bloody and a seven-Spirit mix called “I Wanna be Sedated” that dinner got underway, a first round of $6 Parker Rolls in Cast Iron just a glimpse of what Hard Rock’s bakeshop is capable of while Nuggets of Pork Shank slipped off the Bone with complex flavors prior to digging into an Antipasto Salad highlighted by Artichoke Hearts, Provolone and chopped Charcuterie.
Leaving behind some items such as Country Fried Steak bites for another time and progressing to Sandwiches, the two-handers first presented whole then cut into fifths by Chef Castanino, it was expected that Horseradish Mayo on the Beef & Cheddar would be polarizing though in the context of everything else it was quite mild while “Nashville Style Hot Chicken” won’t challenge the likes of Howlin’ Rays in LA for Heat, but still presents a multi-layered spice profile comparable to the Medium at Cosmo’s new Hattie B’s.
Not seeing any Fries go to waste, the crispy Potatoes definitely a cut above those at PT’s Tavern or other 24-hour joints, it was with two Pastas that savory plates came to a conclusion, the al dente Bucatini standing up to slowly cooked Pork, Beef and Veal plus Parmesan to thicken the Sauce while Wheat-Free Vegan Gnocchi is plenty garlicky but also light and tender amidst juicy Tomatoes and Sage Leaves.
Turning the program over to Pastry Chef Mickey Harden from here, the man responsible for almost everything sweet in the whole Resort making a rare appearance outside the kitchen, it was beginning with Cookies & Cream Cakes that guests quickly realized they’d ordered more than anticipated, each of three moist Chocolate rounds nearly the size a dinner plate and liberally topped with crumbled Oreos plus Cocoa-infused Mascarpone.
Ordering Coffee for the rest, just good Beans and Water though some of the new Java-based Cocktails sound great, Mr. Lucky’s actual Dessert menu next followed in three rounds – the first featuring soft Cheesecake and cubes of Pound Cake with Berries plus a blend of Bananas and Nutella atop a robust Crust that is most certainly decadent but eats lighter than it sounds.
Moving next to items with Ice Cream, the “Parfait” a pretty standard Sundae topped off with one of Chef Harden’s Fudge Brownies, those looking for something a bit more fancy will want to check out sliced Bread Pudding ready to be topped in warm Toffee Sauce or conjoined Profiteroles shellacked in Raspberry Sugar and filled with Peanut Butter Ice Cream…though that certainly should not preclude ordering what might just be Sin City’s best Cinnamon Roll, currently Pumpkin spiced and topped with boozy Cinnamon Frosting.
FOUR AND A HALF STARS: Having said before that all Restaurants can be compared on the basis of intent and execution Chefs Castanino, Harden and Manchester have taken what was already one of Las Vegas’ best 24/7 Eateries and raised the bar even further, a truly “all day” menu that outperforms expectations from Pancakes to Pasta not exactly unheard of in Sin City but when paired with legit Hot Chicken and some of the city’s best Desserts at a great price definitely something special.
Coq au Vin – Chicken braised in Red Wine, Pearl Onions, Mushrooms, Bacon, Chicken Jus
Pommes Puree – Butter, Cream
Crispy Pork Belly – Roasted Red Apples, Onions, Calvados Sauce
Potato Gnocchi – Butternut Squash, Spinach, Herb Butter
Chocolate Birthday Cake – Chocolate Buttercream, Dark Chocolate Ganache
Trying to not only give industry money to worthy businesses but also to diversify co-worker’s palates with #supportlocal it was thrilling when one of the staff requested Coq au Vin for her birthday on Tuesday, and although she did not recall where the dish had been tasted previously the team at Andre’s Bistro and Bar were happy to make wishes come true.
Currently closed on weekday afternoons for renovation, the announcement of what’s to come not yet made but apparently exciting, it was after speaking with General Manager Joe Marsco and providing a budget that a menu was left in the hands of Chefs Chris Bulen and Kevin Lopez, the latter making delivery right on time complete with an abundance of plates, utensils and napkins.
Not a place to cut corners in terms of Ingredients or presentation whether on-site or catering, insulated chafing dishes holding temperatures for nearly three hours until Chef Lopez returned to pack leftovers and collect serviceware, it was starting with housemade Baguettes and good Butter that some filled their plate with Salad, the fresh mix at first confusing some who assuming a bottle of Dressing was Gravy but widely praised later when topped in bitter-sweet Vinaigrette.
Focused next on Sides, most of the staff unfamiliar with French Cuisine but happy to learn by way of silky Mashed Potatoes, it was surprising that many also gravitated to tender Potato Dumplings set against Butternut Squash and Sauteed Spinach, the herbaceous sauce far better than when last experienced at the Restaurant and an absolutely wonderful choice for those averse to Meat.
Onward to Entrees, the Chicken quite literally slipping off bones amidst Onions, Mushrooms and Bacon in Chicken Jus, those seeking something even heartier took immense pleasure in crispy Pork that some staff called Chicharrónes, though regardless of language the thick nuggets of Pork Belly were stunning atop Onions and Apples cooked down with Calvados.
Specially requesting a Birthday Cake to finish, Pastry Chef Tammy Alana’s work always sure to impress, it was no different this time than so many meals at Andre’s or Alize that everything looked and tasted amazing as moist Chocolate Sponge stood springy between layers of Milk Chocolate Buttercream and thick Cocoa Ganache.
N/A: Making it blog policy to not ‘rate’ places based on catering alone suffice it to say that Andre’s Bistro & Bar once again exceeded expectations while also making someone’s birthday a little more special, the delivery and pick-up both smooth while the Food continues to set the standard Off Strip.
