Familiar with Jim Lahey’s Bread from tables across Manhattan as well as his Pizza at Co. it was early Saturday morning that three guests sat down at Sullivan St. Bakery, the Hell’s Kitchen location having recently undergone renovations and now serving Breakfast in addition to classics offered since 1994.
Born out of Lahey’s self-taught method and made famous by The New York Times, the No-Knead Recipe now a staple of many homes and expounded on in best-selling Cookbooks, it was at 8:30am that the store at 533 West 47th Street was found largely empty, staff quietly stacking shelves with fresh items including seasonal Panettone and Loaves both sweet and savory.
A recipient of The James Beard Foundation’s first “Outstanding Baker” award in 2015, and widely recognized as one of America’s foremost authorities on the topic, it was after lengthy perusal of options that six choices were bought and paid for, the total of $23.50 appropriate by Manhattan standards though the $4 Bomboloni without much Jam was a substantial disappointment.
Moving next to savories, only the recently debuted Uovo Brioche warmer than room-temperature, suffice it to say that those who prefer their Eggs cooked past runny should probably look elsewhere as Sullivan Street takes “soft cooked” literally in contrast to crispy Pork while Roman Pizza and leavened Strecci both wow in terms of texture and their ability to make simplicity so delicious.
Transitioning back to sweet, Lahey’s Chocolate Chip Cookie not as large or chewy as those from Levain, Schmackary’s or Chip, it was fortunate that Breakfast ended with an item described as “Dolce Canotto,” the same springy Brioche previously surrounding Ham and Eggs here found split and lightly soaked by Blueberries and Mascarpone beneath what tasted like a crumbled Italian Macaroon.
Mexican Hot Chocolate Cookie – Dark Cocoa, Semi-Sweet Chocolate Chips, Cinnamon Sugar, Cayenne Pepper
Dirty Peppermint Cookie – Dark Cocoa, White Chocolate Chips, Peppermint Bits, Peppermint Cream Cheese Frosting
Ginger Rogers Cookie – Molasses, Ginger, White Chocolate Chips, Cinnamon, Cloves, Black Pepper, Sugar Glaze
Super “C” Cookie – M&M’s, White Chocolate Chips, Sea Salt
Begun as an online business in 2011 and moved to a 45h Street Brick and Mortar location by 2015 it is from Nebraska-born Zachary Schmahl that Schmackary’s came to New York, the idea to bake Cookies just down the street from Levain intrepid but still paying off over three years later even as other places such have Chip have recently entered the market.
Eponymous for Schmahl’s nickname and homey from day one, a small seating area with newspapers just left of the counter lined in Cookies, Muffins, Scones and more, it is immediately on entry that guests are welcomed by tantalizing smells and pleasant service while prices trend lower than average for The Big Apple.
Offering a rotating selection of flavors beginning at 8am daily, the Christmas Holiday yielding two seasonal specials, it was after some debate that six of thirteen Cookies were selected in addition to one Coffee Cake, all of them still warm to touch and the latter moist yet dainty in the form of a Muffin with ribbons of Cinnamon-Sugar and caramelized Pecans adding crunch.
Cozy and surprisingly busy just thirty minutes after opening, many grabbing items to go but some choosing to linger over Coffee, it was progressing left to right from a box that Cookies kicked off with Red Velvet, the crispy edge and soft center textbook while White Chocolate Chips and rustic Cream Cheese Frosting helped balance the Cocoa.
Moving next to Bacon Chocolate Chip and then Mexican Hot Chocolate, both texturally similar from edge-to-center and the former quite salty, it was by way of “Dirty Peppermint” that Cayenne was countered before moving on to a glazed Ginngersnap, the use of Black Pepper to magnify Cloves and Ginger frankly brilliant while the Super “C” selected by an 11-year-old also punched above its weight-class thanks to granules of Sea Salt on top.
With staff clamoring for a second visit ever since Pink Taco first volunteered to cater it was on #supportlocal Taco Tuesday that three Chefs arrived at 11:00am to set-up, the layout even more extensive than that prior thanks to the efforts of Mickey Harden who added some Holiday flourish to Dessert.
Still located in The Hard Rock Hotel & Casino and likely to remain after Virgin’s 2019 face-lift, a space adjacent The Joint forever guaranteeing foot traffic to the tourist favorite, it was alongside several items from November that additional trays were assembled on-site, the Guacamole widely praised whether eaten on housemade Chips or crisp Vegetables while Bacon-wrapped Peppers packed with Cheese were also deemed delicious, though admittedly by a fairly small audience with pronounced heat tolerance.
Moving next to smoky Chicken Tamales after Tacos and Flautas that were again beautifully executed, the Bird tender and moist whether grilled or Tinga-style, another *hot* item for those who like spice was Veggie Enchiladas smothered in Red Sauce while lighter lunchers happily partook in a vibrant Wedge Salad topped in creamy Dressing.
Finishing up with Dessert, a total of seven tiny treats including two styles of Sugar Cookies all seasonally inspired, it would be difficult to decide which item was most crowd-pleasing amongst Cheesecake, Rice Krispie Treats or Gingerbread Whoopie Pies offset by Citrus, but for those seeking something a little more sophisticated the choice between bite-size Pear Tarts versus cups of Caramel-soaked Tiramisu required multiple tastes with no clear winner emerging, but plenty of enjoyment derived while trying to decide.
N/A: Making it blog policy to not ‘rate’ places based on catering alone the team from Pink Taco has twice set a high standard, every moment from arrival and on-site assembly to collecting their own serving dishes the following day an absolute class-act from start to finish.
RECOMMENDED: PINK TACOS, AL PASTOR TACOS, DULCE DE LECHE TIRAMISU, GINGERBREAD WHOOPIE PIES, ALMOND PEAR TART.
AVOID: More “Warning” than “AVOID,” the BACON-WRAPPED JALAPEÑOS still have their seeds.
TIP: Call 702-693-4092 or email GroupDining@hrhvegas to arrange on-site parties or catering.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Chocolate Cupcakes with Chocolate Buttercream Frosting
Gingerbread Cupcakes with Vanilla Buttercream Frosting
Red Velvet Cupcakes with Cream Cheese Frosting
Cranberry, White Chocolate, Pecan Oatmeal Cookies
Mexican Wedding Cookies
Chocolate Thumbprint Cookies
With Holiday Season in full swing it was as part of #supportlocal lunch that Tiffany Jones and Peridot Sweets were called upon, timely arrival and an array of bite-size treats impressing an office of twenty-eight across several varieties of Cookies, Bars and Cupcakes.
Operating out of the new location for just over seven months, a recent high-profile wedding and an Instagram account full of designer Birthday Cakes just part of Peridot’s capabilities, it was with items unboxed that guests smiled at decorations before indulging, a trio of Cookies finding Oatmeal Cookies chewy and flexible while Thumbprints and Wedding Cookies were appropriately crispy and slowly-melting on the tongue thanks to their buttery bases.
Moving next to Bars, the Lemon Jam atop Shortbread tangy but not sour, those looking for more Cocoa would not be disappointed by Brownies or Cupcakes to follow, Red Velvet moist and light beneath smooth Cream Cheese while Chocolate decorated like snowflakes doubled-down with Cocoa Buttercream that was enjoyable but not quite on the level of spicy Gingerbread that came complete with tricolor adornment and edible sparkles.
N/A: Making it blog policy to not ‘rate’ places based on catering alone there is no doubt Peridot Sweets remains Las Vegas best Cupcake purveyor, and although prices are higher than others the combination of scratch baking, high quality design and customer service justifies the expense.
Anyone lucky enough to have tasted Pawan Pinisetti’s Food at Fiamma could have predicted his move to Top of the World Restaurant would elevate the tourist hotspot, but a look at new items on Saturday outperformed expectations from beginning to end as quality ingredients were presented in a manner that focused of flavors over fuss while the stunning view obviously didn’t hurt.
Found high atop The Stratosphere and previously visited for lunch, a 4:00pm arrival in December perfect for catching the sunset over Red Rock, it was seated in the rotating room that menus were presented and Drinks poured, Iced Tea all around and servers not only pleasant but efficient for a place that on some days does over one thousand covers.
Looking seasonally for his first menu change since taking the reins at Las Vegas’ 844 foot high space, Nikolus Pangonis and several others buying into Chef Pinisetti’s mantra of “simplicity done right,” it was beginning with new Bread service that improvement was first noted, the sweet Brioche a premium delivery mechanism for smooth Butter while crunchy Baguettes come in handy for mopping up Sauces, or in the case of course one every drop of slowly reduced Lobster Bisque.
Continuing with Salads and Appetizers, a ubiquitous Beet Salad here standing out thanks to firmed-up Burrata and semi-sweet Vinaigrette, those looking for something with a little more heft would do well to order warm Spinach topped in Bacon, Blue Cheese and Apples while fans of Tartar – even those who don’t typically like Tuna – will find themselves marveling at the silky texture and bold Asian spice profile created by pickled Wasabi and Togarashi.
Utilizing a fairly small kitchen for such a voluminous space, though new systems have created efficiency by which Pawan is able to make at least one Pasta on-site, it is taking inspiration from Prime Rib that braised Wagyu is served over tender noodles with Mushrooms and mellowed Horseradish while Vegans also get a nod from Spaghetti Squash dressed up in house Pomodoro that adds flavor without compromising texture like so many spiraled Squash Noodles.
Next taking a look at two specials, delicate Chilean Sea Bass given a boost but not overwhelmed by Celeriac and Greens cooked with Bacon, those seeking Beef won’t go wrong with either the aged American Ribeye nor off-menu Veal Parm pounded thin and cooked golden, though sides including shaved Brussels Sprouts and Thanksgiving-reminiscent Sweet Potatoes with Marshmallow Fluff, Raisins and Pecans attempt to steal the spotlight.
Having previously tasted several Desserts, and at this point quite full, it was alongside an iced Double Espresso that two novelties and one prior favorite were requested, the Spumoni given a bit of pop by Dark Chocolate Shell while Bananas Foster stands out thanks to dense Almond Cake and contrasting Plantain Chips, though it still cannot compete with what is to date Las Vegas’ tallest and most well composed Chocolate Cake.
FOUR AND A HALF STARS: Limited by clientele more than anything else, the posing by windows and cell-phone flashes a constant reminder that Top of the World must remain accessible to anyone with the means, it is nonetheless fortunate that under Chef Pinisetti the Food now matches spectacular views, and as long as things at Golden Entertainment continue to progress as they are that could mean a return to relevance for The Stratosphere to locals as well as tourists.
Having long told anyone listening that Pink Box Doughnuts has been Sin City’s premier purveyor of fried Dough ever since opening it was again on Saturday that Roberto Armanino’s original location on Lake Meade Boulevard did justice to such praise, several old favorites given a holiday makeover while one previously average choice was upgraded in addition to an all-new seasonal surprise.
Celebrating six years serving the 702 this month, each day seeing the staff try new things and only the retirement of “Date with a Nutty Pig” regrettable thus far, it was by friendly staff that a two boxes were filled around noon, first bites of a smiling face yielding airy Vanilla Cream while a follow-up topped in similar was packed with creamy Pumpkin Cheesecake made better than at Halloween thanks to more sweetness and Baking Spices.
Sticking to lighter choices by way of Caramel Cheesecake, a glazed Cro-Dough and beautifully decorated Rings and Bars, the latter best ordered in advance if a specific design is desired, it was prior to delving into Cocoa that Buttermilk Bars were next devoured, first a plain one with Glaze added at just the right temperate to partially penetrate and then the version which doubles down on texture with Cinnamon Crumble.
Finishing strong with Chocolate, the Pink Velvet Unicorn made a Reindeer by going blackface and trading one horn for two, suffice it to say that Chocolate Mousse, Marshmallows and Peppermint garnishes serve Pink Box’s Coco Cake well as “Hot Chocolate,” though the Poomoji topped with ornamental M&Ms is still richer, denser and unparalleled in terms of generating a smile.
FIVE STARS: Celebrating six years serving Las Vegas Pink Box Doughnuts never stops creating, and dollar for dollar both classics and novelties remain a bargain by comparison to other “best” Doughnuts across the Nation.
RECOMMEDED: Cinnamon Crumb Buttermilk Bar, Buttermilk Bar, Caramel Cheesecake Doughnut, Poomoji.
AVOID: N/A.
TIP: Christmas shapes are $13.20 a dozen and currently available by calling the store, e-mail or stopping in, but be sure to call regarding holiday hours as previous years have rightly seen employees home celebrating with their families on Christmas Day.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Crème Brulee French Toast, Vanilla Cream, Whipped Cream, Berries, Maple Orange Syrup
Frozen Soufflé, Grand Marnier, Crunchy Pistachio
Passion Fruit Pate de Fruit, Coffee Sable, Salted Chocolate Caramel
Long situated as a focal point inside Paris Las Vegas Hotel & Casino it was finally on Saturday that the elevator was ascended to Eiffel Tower Restaurant, Chef Jean Joho’s classic French Cuisine put on display several stories above The Strip in a space offering privileged views of Sin City and particularly of the Bellagio Fountains.
Open since 1999 and managed by Lettuce Entertain You, the same group behind Paris’ Mon Ami Gabi plus Joho’s Michelin starred Everest in Chicago, it is after ascending 110 feet into the 50-story Tower that doors open onto a showpiece kitchen, a staff of at least fifteen hard at work for Dinner beginning daily at 4:30pm plus Lunch on Weekdays and Brunch on Weekends.
No doubt a tourist hotspot, the elevated vantage and central location virtually guaranteeing traffic despite prices a bit higher than some might expect, it is after checking in at the hostess podium that guests are led to seats lining windows or on a higher ledge also offering a good view, though earlier arrival or reservations are recommended for prime real estate.
Featuring a full-bar plus an impressive cellar, the Wines mostly French and predictably subject to substantial mark-up, it is with Water poured that daytime guests are left to peruse items ranging light to rich, signatures designated by a small icon while five Brunch specials and a three-course tasting menu are also highlighted.
Well-priced considering the setting, service staff in suits and piano playing overhead adding class to crisp linens and dark red carpets, it was declining the $39 tasting that three courses were instead ordered along with Iced Tea, an amuse of Parsnip Cream a nice touch with contrasting Sage while housemade Baguette also showed well despite nearly-frozen Butter that initially proved impossible to spread.
Toqued by Executive Chefs Joung Sohn and Lucas Knox who have recently made small adjustments to the menu, a “luxury” French Toast topped in Foie Gras lost in the shuffle, it was nonetheless that dining was underway with one of two current Duck Liver preparations, the warm version selected over a cold Terrine and proving nicely seared atop buttery Brioche and stewed Apples complimented by Cabernet Jus.
Turning next to one of Chef Joho’s classics, a $22 plate of what many might call “fried Chicken,” suffice it to say that there is nothing simple about the thinly pounded Breast coated in Bread Crumbs and aged Cheese, the salinity nicely balanced by a sidecar of Brown Butter that also adds plenty of flavor to crispy Potatoes and snappy Green Beans.
Switching from Tea to Coffee going forward, both freshly brewed and refilled consistently, those seeking French Toast may want to dine somewhere else, a cost of $19 excessive even if the single piece were prepared perfectly – which it most certainly was not as the center was 1/6 filled with Custard thus leaving the rest dry and thirsty for Syrup.
Not wanting to exit disappointed, though the staff’s failure to inform guests in advance of Apple Strudel that takes twenty minutes to prepare was also unfortunate, it was with an $8.50 Frozen “Soufflé” that Brunch concluded, the layers of Strawberry and Grand Marnier Semifreddo juxtaposed to Fruit and Nuts while three tiny Mignardises including one made of Passion Fruit were a pleasant send-off.
THREE AND A HALF STARS: In a city where several Restaurants come with a view Eiffel Tower Restaurant fares particularly well thanks to the Bellagio Fountains, but taking into account premium pricing small details like rock-hard Butter and poorly executed French Toast are difficult to ignore no matter how good Jean Joho’s Modern French Cuisine is otherwise.
RECOMMENDED: Warm New York State Foie Gras, Aged Parmesan Crusted Chicken.
AVOID: Crème Brulee French Toast.
TIP: Eiffel Tower’s famous Warm Soufflés are unavailable during Brunch and Lunch service, but fans of LEYE Restaurants can currently buy a $100 gift card and get a $25 bonus through 12/30/18.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Grilled Filet Mignon, Whipped Potatoes, Grilled Asparagus, Au Poivre Sauce
Herb Seared Crispy Chicken Breast, Roasted Cauliflower Parmesan Puree, Dark Chicken Jus
Coffee
Crème Brulee, White Chocolate Nut Clusters, Peppermint Bark, English Toffee
Candy Cane Blondie
Egg Nog Pot de Crème with Brandy Jelly
Chocolate Hazelnut Crunch Bar
Strawberry White Chocolate Mousse
Red Velvet Cream Cheese Roulade
Black Forest Bread Pudding, Whipped Cream, Crème Anglaise
Put in charge of 2018’s holiday office party there was not a second thought as to where dinner should take place, #supportlocal favorite CRAFTkitchen opening their doors to sixty after-hours and providing an evening of food, fun and extraordinary hospitality that lasted past ten o’clock.
A three-year favorite for both dine-in and catering, though for many staff this would be their first actual visit to the Restaurant, early arrivals found the space rearranged to accommodate both couples and communal seating, festive music playing overhead and a variety of ornaments plus red satin napkins adding greatly to the ambiance.
Booked as a three-course Prix-fixe with menu deferred to Chef-Owner Jaret Blinn, lessons learned from a 2017 mess at Mingo Kitchen offered as guidance for this mixed group of ages, ethnicities and education-levels, it was with many predictably arriving late that others patiently sipped Beer or Wine available two-per-guest, the decision of some to “pre-game” raising noise levels as time went on and especially with the onset of games and “Secret Santa” at the end of the night.
Not the staff’s first rodeo, Jaret and his wife Tami having actually catered an even larger event earlier that day, it was once the majority were present that dinner was served, fresh Bread and piped Butter that many visually mistook for Marshmallows preceding Salad, Soup or Pasta, the Lobster Bisque made by slowly reducing Shells earning high praise from many though smoked Chicken Ravioli proved even better thanks to the complimentary flavors of Poultry, Cheese and creamy Tomato Sauce.
A fun group of employees and their guests, +1s including spouses and parents all-smiles for nearly four hours, it was with a glass of Sauvignon Blanc that a second course of Chicken and Steak was presented, others opting for Scallops that also looked great though the most popular choice was undoubtedly grilled Filet Mignon with Potatoes and Asparagus.
At this point lining the PDR with Desserts, Chef Blinn’s years at Red Rock put on full display, it was as games with big prizes took place that many indulged intermittently, Crème Brulee going fast as did a Red Velvet Cake Roll, though the very best choices included individual Strawberry White Chocolate Mousse Domes and housemade Candies plus CRAFTkitchen’s always-enjoyable Bread Pudding that on this day was loaded with Dark Chocolate and drunken Cherries.
FIVE STARS: Just like Breakfast, Brunch, Lunch or Catering CRAFTkitchen LV outperformed expectations for this private event, everything from food to setup and service fantastic from beginning to when things got a little crazy. Special thanks to Jaret, Tami and the rest for their hospitality and double to the staff who stuck around later than originally scheduled.
RECOMMENDED: White Chocolate Cranberry Bread, Lobster Bisque, Smoked Chicken Ravioli, English Toffee, Strawberry White Chocolate Mousse, Red Velvet Cream Cheese Roulade, Black Forest Bread Pudding.
AVOID: N/A.
TIP: White Chocolate Cranberry Bread and Black Forest Bread Pudding are both available for Christmas Pre-Order. Call 702-728-5828 until 3pm daily to place your order and schedule pickup. Last day to preorder is December 20th, by 2pm. Order pickup is available any day through December 24.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Although any day is a perfectly good one to visit Rosallie the month of December offers additional incentives, one being the display of holiday cheer that further improves Le French Café’s cozy décor and the other a collection of new treats including Galette des Rois and seasonal Éclairs plus Las Vegas’ best Buche de Noel.
Now open for three Christmases and even more entrenched in the Holiday spirit, pseudo-snow banks cascading next to garland and a tree, it is amongst old favorites that guests will discover additional new choices including an Apricot Danish built on subtle Coconut Custard, the base barely capable of holding up to the weight but still remaining crisp across the bottom layer while far more flakiness is found in the elongated and glazed version topped in Grapes and mixed Berries.
Always impressing with Croissants both Butter and filled, house-ground Nuts the secret to creating an Almond version free of Frangipane and thus superior to any stateside plus the majority in France, it is thanks to Raspberry Preserves that a second version takes on a seasonal appearance, as does the “Christmas Tree Meringue” that offers shattering sugar in comparison to the larger version with Almonds and a chewy center.
Finishing up with Chocolate, General Manager Christoph’s skill with Pate a Choux yielding an impressive Éclair filled with Vanilla Custard and topped with decorated Chocolate Mousse, 2018 sees Rosallie’s foot-long Yule Log packing even more Cocoa thanks to housemade Fudge in the Sponge, the shiny Ganache creating a picture-perfect backdrop to edible decorations while Crème Brulee in the center helps keep things from becoming *too* rich.
FIVE STARS: Always special, this time of year more than ever, Rosallie serves as a reminder that the best of Las Vegas is no longer exclusive to touristy areas and with holiday specials now available there are even more reasons to visit than usual.
RECOMMENDED: Almond Croissant, Almond Raspberry Croissant, Vanilla Bean Custard Éclair with Chocolate Mousse, Apricot Coconut Danish, Chocolate and Crème Brulee Buche de Noel.
AVOID: N/A.
TIP: Open 7a-6p Daily and taking orders for Holiday Cookies, Galette and Bûche de Noël. Follow @rosallielefrenchcafe on Social Media for specials at both locations.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Open for just over a year in the Smith’s plaza at the corner of Rancho and Charleston, a former Bagel shop taken over by the Montesano’s family and rebranded as New York Bagel N Bakery, it was on Thursday that catering was ordered for #supportlocal lunch, a pick-up order unfortunately not ready at the designated time but the Food itself performing well.
Additionally offering delivery via Grubhub, though in this particular instance precluded by distance, it was at a cost of just over $12 per attendee that guests perused options before making choices, a variety of Sandwiches composed of Deli Meats and Cheeses stacked high on Bread highlighted by mixed Pastrami and Corned Beef with Swiss.
Additionally receiving an assortment of “Bagels and Schmears,” New York Bagel N Bakery’s online ordering system not indicating the housemade rings would arrive toasted and topped, it is probably no surprise that Cinnamon Raisin and Strawberry went over better than cured Salmon on something shellacked in Sugar though it was actually the Egg Bagel with good skin and plenty of chew that proved most impressive as did the vibrant Veggie Cream Cheese.
Moving last to Cookies, a variety charged per pound including sixteen different flavors, those looking for classic Sprinkle Cookies this Holiday season would be far better off at 840 South Rancho Drive Suite 16 than any chain or grocery store, though the best choices still remain Italian Wedding Cookies, those topped in sweetened Cream Cheese and cakey Rainbow Cookies as good as one will find in Philly, Boston or New York City.
N/A: Making it blog policy to not ‘rate’ places based on catering alone the Food from New York Bagel N Bakery sets a high standard for any Deli in Las Vegas, but better description of the offerings online would not take a whole lot of work and could potentially benefit in terms of customer satisfaction and sales.
RECOMMENDED: Rainbow Cookies, Italian Wedding Cookies, Cream Cheese Cookies, Egg Bagel, French Toast Bagel, Veggie Cream Cheese, Pastrami and Corned Beef Sandwich.
AVOID: Potato Salad, ordering “Bagels and Schmears” without specifically requesting them separate.
TIP: Open 6a-4p weekdays and 7a-2p on weekends. Call (702) 258-7400 for special requests or large orders, or check out Grubhub
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Snickerdoodle, Chocolate Chip, Peppermint Macaron, Lemon Cookies, Italian Wedding Cookies, Pomegranate Thumb Print Cookies
Trained in the kitchens of Bergamo Italy but born stateside Marc Vetri’s name may not carry the weight of some “Celebrity Chefs,” but at his eponymous Restaurant in Philadelphia there has nonetheless been a book full of reservations for two decades, and in November 2018 the husband, father, musician, author and humanitarian transported his iconic dining room 56 stories above the Las Vegas Strip.
Titled Vetri Cucina and occupying the former home of Alizé, a space that has been completely re-imagined with imported cobblestone, warm wood and soft lighting, it is after a ride in elevators that guests will find themselves in a foyer where classical music plays, the hostess stand just steps beyond and in front of a bar where David “Coop” Cooper has found a new home after years at Carnevino.
In many ways Sin City’s biggest opening of 2018, the willingness off Station Casinos to invest in Fine Dining admirable as so many properties revert to quick casual, it is after confirming reservations that guests are led to tables clad in white tablecloths and hand-blown glasses, tiny candles flickering as bright lights glow below and into the distance.
Featuring a la carte service as opposed to Chef Vetri’s Philadelphia Tasting Menu, a necessity of the local market that occasionally makes prices seem a touch high, it is by servers also recognizable from Mario Batali’s shuttered Steakhouse that diners are offered warm professionalism, those looking to imbibe encouraged to enjoy selections from a lengthy Wine list or one of Coop’s Cocktails from which Fiore di Pesca drinks Fruit-forward but still boozy before a lightly floral finish.
Offering both Marc’s classics and newer seasonal items, a Bread program captained by Chefs Ashley Costa and Vetri veteran Amanda Shulman built around the Chef’s aged Starter beautifully structured, it was with two Antipasti that Dinner was underway, the cured Foie Gras smooth and nicely balanced by housemade Jam on Toast while Veal Tartare starts deceptively simple before evolving more and more with each bite.
Moving next to Pasta, the appropriate focus of any visit to Vetri Cucina, it was to two recipes from the book “Il Viaggio di Vetri” that guests were next treated, the Almond Tortellini fondly recalled from Philly here topped in Alba White Truffles and even better than memory serves while Spinach Gnocchi re-created from Swiss Chard remain the same gravity-defying spheres that seem only held to the plate by Cheese and Brown Butter.
Requesting additional Bread to sop up Sauce, the overall lack of Tomatoes expected as a result of Marc’s regional approach, it is straight from Bergamo that the kitchen led by Chef Josh Bianchi sends forth Casoncelli alla Bergsmasca, the pockets of shredded Beef and Breadcrumbs made more impactful by Sage and batons of Pork while crumpled ribbons of Malfadini offer gentle spring amidst hearty Duck Ragu and sliced Olives.
Offered one final Pasta before Secondi, razor-thin Fettuccini unfortunately a little overcooked beneath Wild Boar and Cocoa that adds minerality not dissimilar to Blood, those looking for something a little different from Fish and Steak should immediately invest $52 in smoked Baby Goat, the Ribs and Saddle both succulent atop Polenta drowning in Butter, though the former would be easier to eat with Bones disarticulated…or at least with a serrated knife.
Taking Espresso with Dolci, the complete collection of Vetri’s classics and new ideas from Chef Costa on display, those who do not prefer Citrus and Chocolate together may wish to avoid Ricotta Gelato and Agrumato that also comes across a bit oily, the far better pick for Chocoholics a molten-center “Souffle” while those seeking Fruit will be delighted by housemade Sorbetti, a rustic Pear Tart or Ashley’s Doughnuts that are spot on to what she once served inside the Palazzo.
Cleansing the palate between plates with bites of Gelato, both Gingerbread and Honey lovely but Vanilla on a whole different level, if one were forced to pick Vetri Cucina’s *best* Dessert the decision would fall between Sicilian Pistachio “Flan” and a Polenta Budino with Gianduja Mousse, the former spilling silky green contents with each spoonful but the Budino a textural masterpiece without being too sweet while Mignardises are highlighted by quickly dissolving Wedding Cookies and Cinnamon-crusted cubes of Poundcake described as Snickerdoodles.
FOUR AND A HALF STARS: In 2010 Vetri was easily the best meal during a year of light travel, similar accolades deserved in 2012 for an extended tasting at 1312 Spruce Street, and in 2018 it is an honor to have Vetri Cucina in Las Vegas where a few small tweaks could very well make it the best Italian Restaurant in town, an area where it already stakes its claim in terms of ambiance and location.
AVOID: Even for those who like Dark Chocolate and Citrus the amount of Olive Oil used on the Ricotta Gelato Dessert is too much.
TIP: For those who keep saying Vetri is “too expensive” please see what Mario used to charge for Pasta at Carnevino, or what Sinatra or Rao’s still sell today. Additionally one can home Marc and his team see enough success locally to bring their Community Partnership West. www.vetricommunity.org
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Although Sundays are typically a day of rest it was based on the strong Dinner performance in November that plans were made to attend Brunch at Masso Osteria less than one month later, the room taking on a warm glow during daylight hours when several areas are rearranged to create Buffet stations alongside an a la carte Menu appropriately adjusted from what is offered at night.
Sparing a lengthy description of room, history and service that mirrors what is seen during Masso Osteria Dinner, General Manager Christian Pollock leaving this day in the capable hands of a female AGM and her staff, guests arriving between 10:30am and 2:30pm Sunday will find Sports playing at the Bar plus a DJ in the main room, everything from The Rolling Stones to Drake finding its way onto a playlist that is present but not overly loud.
Empty early but building up steam closer to noon, the traditionally slow weeks between Thanksgiving and Christmas in Las Vegas always a great time for locals to explore, it was seated in a rounded booth that menus were perused prior to ordering Beverages, hot Coffee for him and a Bellini for her each agreeable with the latter as well as Bloody Marys and Mimosas available bottomless for just $25.
Somewhat unique in format with Appetizers, Entrees and Desserts priced as listed, or a cost of $42 allowing guests their choice of one plus all-you-can-eat selections from the Buffet, it was wisely going AYCE that stations were visited before making picks, plate one piled in imported Charcuterie and Cheese from which spicy Soppressata was a highlight plus beautiful marinated Artichoke Hearts and Pasta Salad glistening with Broccoli Rabe Pesto around Tomatoes and cubes of Burrata.
Smart to go slowly, the kitchen taking its time to get plates right and Coffee refills plentiful, it was on a visit to the hot line that Pizza, Stromboli and Frittata offered temptation, the Pie unfortunately made flaccid by heat lamps while Chef Conant’s signature Strombolis wowed either meaty or Vegetarian, as did bite-size Eggs that eat more like springy crustless Quiche that the traditional pan-fried version.
At this point receiving plated items, two sweet and another pair savory, it was after snapping photos that Yolks were popped, a creamy yellow cascade mellowing salty Guanciale to create a formidable Carbonara while those crowning the Benny quickly soaked into toasted Focaccia topped in slices of housemade Porchetta made even more succulent by Truffle Fonduta.
Turning to sweeter things next, the fact that Masso uses 100% Pure Maple Syrup a welcomed fact, those who prefer “Dessert for Breakfast” will be happy to know that both Pancakes and French Toast perform beautifully, the Panettone almost super-saturated with Custard and complimented by Berries plus Whipped Cream while “Pancakes” are thick like Muffin Tops and extra-fluffy thanks to Ricotta with light Citrus notes.
To this point impressed by both ingredients and execution, Scott Conant and Executive Chef Victor Rodriguez clearly putting a lot of effort into housemade Fennel Sausage and aromatic Porchetta with shattering Skin, it is unfortunate that Prime Rib is fairly chewy while 100-Layer Lasagna suffers from self-service and condensation that builds up in its warming dish.
Additionally offering several other plates including the celebrity Chef’s Pasta Al Pomodoro and Salted Caramel Budino, both thoroughly enjoyed at Dinner, it was with a trip to the Pastry Station that Brunch concluded, items from Red Rock Bakeshop complimented by Las Vegas’ best Doughnuts and the rare opportunity to pair one of PinkBox’s Cro-Doughs with housemade Soft Serve and condiments like crumbled Oreo Cookies, Sprinkles or bittersweet Coffee Crunch.
FOUR STARS: Not quite as good as Dinner, inherent limitations of a Buffet on display with both Pizza and Lasagna, the fact one can visit Masso Osteria for just $42 and sample the Chef’s signature dish plus several labor-intensive items built from well-sourced ingredients is nonetheless impressive and yet another sign that Station Casinos and Red Rock are ready to play hardball with The Strip.
AVOID: Pizza needs to be replenished more frequently or Dough fermented longer to avoid going limp, Lasagna needs to come out of the steam tray and be cut to order as this would better hold temperature and avoid condensation build up.
TIP: Offered 10:30am to 2:30pm on Sundays with several additional items such as Salads, Sides, Croissants, Granola and even Avocado Toast also available.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
“There aren’t enough Burgers in Las Vegas” has probably never been said, but when Ralph Perrazzo brought b.B.d’s – Beers Burgers Desserts to Palace Station Hotel & Casino none of that mattered to the former Chef at Bradley Ogden – what mattered was bringing an unparalleled experience encompassing ingredients, execution, service and setting – all four present and accounted for when three guests sat down to dinner on Wednesday.
In many ways the centerpiece of Station Casino’s recent renovations at their closest location to the Strip, an Asian Restaurant called Boathouse standing next to Chef Perazzo’s import from Rocky Point, it is hard to miss b.B.d’s no matter where entering from, the acronym blazing like a red beacon with a podium out front and heavy wooden doors fully protecting diners from the gaming floor.
Detailed in Art and Televisions, the former just as edgy as a soundtrack playing Kill ‘em All era Metallica and System of a Down, it is upon entering the first set of doors that guests will notice a room for on-site butchery, Perazzo and his team frequently seen breaking down large cuts of Beef, Pork and even Lamb.
Touting “Craftsmanship you can taste” and taking no shortcuts, everything including various grinds made on-site to ensure each Burger is as fresh as possible, it is from a diverse Beer list that guests are left to peruse after seating, a Cider from Shacksbury Farmhouse chosen to pair with Appetizers just a touch funky but otherwise light and not so carbonated as to make one feel bloated.
Focused on top quality ingredients and scratch made everything, Ralph’s travels building a menu that seeks to elevate “Bar Food” staples across America, it was with Cocktails including Long Island Iced Tea called “Lit” and a Pina Colada improved by Almond Liqueur that course one arrived, juicy flesh sliding right off Duck Legs loaded with umami while “French” Onion Rings may just as easily been have made by a Japanese Tempura master considering the crunchy yet light Breading.
Continuing heavier, quite literally in the case of a one pound Pretzel that is fluffy beneath a good skin and even more impressive with Beer Cheese, one of the newspaper-style menu’s biggest surprises comes in the form of five Cheese Sticks filled with what is presumably a blend including Raclette, the unparalleled stretch easily over a foot on arrival delicious on its own or when dipped in housemade Marinara with lots of Herbs.
Pumping the brakes with two Salads, one locally sourced from Urban Seed but the “Wedge” more interesting thanks to chunks of Roquefort and candied Bacon, it was saving a whole section of Vegan choices for another time that “Burnt” Wings arrived, the confit cooking creating something extra moist and crisp though the Hot Sauce is no-joke and best saved for those with fairly high spice tolerance.
Next tasting a Lamb Gyro recommended by AGM Gil Hayon, he and an assistant providing great service throughout the evening, it comes as no surprise that in-house butchery yields thick cuts that marry well to traditional condiments, but what was shocking came from Wild Creatures Brewery in the form of a Grape Ale that tasted a lot like Natural Wine from the Czech Republic.
Onward to the main event, a Burger quartet cooked in four iconic styles, suffice it to say that Perazzo’s no-shortcuts style yields a Steamer far superior to its famous cousin while the rest shoot even higher, a “Griddle” Burger thin but taking on a nice sear while the “Prime Dry Aged Steakhouse Burger” rivals any in town with 12oz of house-ground Beef on Toasted Brioche that stands up well to a la carte additions such as Aged Cheddar and a creamy Duck Egg.
Receiving plenty of Fries with the Sandwiches, b.B.d’s “Shoestrings” all crisp and outperforming crinkle-cut Sweets that were unfortunately a little flaccid, it was alongside Shakes made from in-house Soft Serve that the “Juice Bomb” was indulged in, Ralph’s broiled-crust tribute to Luncheonettes of old spilling Juice on the tray below with each unctuous bite and most certainly amongst the top three Burgers tasted to date in Sin City, even unadorned.
Making no proclamations as to which Milkshake is best, the fact that all three will clog a jumbo straw at times maddening because it slows down the enjoyment of something so creamy and delicious, be reminded to also save room for plated Desserts as Ralph’s time at Michelin 3* Jean-Georges in Manhattan was not wasted, all the evidence needed found in a riff on Vongerichten’s Molten Chocolate Cake, though the gooey housemade Cinnamon Roll and recently launched Bourbon Bread Pudding with Cheesecake Ice Cream are even better.
FIVE STARS: Rare to call any place “World Class” after a single visit the fact of the matter is that there is no one out there taking on Pub Grub and executing it as well as b.B.d’s, the effort of Chef Perazzo and his team evident in everything from Ingredient sourcing to design while the Food and Beverage both live up to promises of “Craftsmanship you can taste.”
Asian Chicken Noodle Salad – Naked Truth Fried Chicken, Cabbage, Noodles, Candied Cashews, Korean Dressing
BBQ Chicken Salad – Naked Truth Fried Chicken, Roasted Corn Relish, Pepper Jack Cheese, Lettuce, BBQ Ranch Dressing
Big Chocolate Chip Cookie – from Crumb Fairy Bakery
Open now for just over a month and surprising fans as well as skeptics with Food far better than the typical “celebrity” Restaurant it was Wednesday that #supportlocal lunch went with Big Chicken, delivery by General Manager Trisha Durham arranged for just $20 extra and two Package Combos more than enough to feed 28 Guests below the allotted $15 per person.
Off to a good start and consistently busy, several local publications including bestofvegas.com publishing stories confirming hype generated by Shaquille O’Neal’s Facebook series, it was precisely on time that sturdy boxes and trays arrived from 4480 Paradise Road, everything temperature appropriate and well packaged so diners could come and go as they pleased.
Opting for one “Superman” Package plus fifty Strips, the former offering 36 Sliders, Fries, two Salads and two Cookies for $275, it was with Salad that many attendees opted to start, the Asian-inspired version dubbed “too spicy” by some but in reality quite mild with compelling texture while BBQ Chicken Salad was a little more wet than it likely is on-site but otherwise excellent as a result of sweetness and creaminess plus cubes of Pepper Jack Cheese.
Moving next to Big Chicken’s eponymous item, the cut Breasts from Naked Truth brined and cooked crisp with plenty of moisture locked beneath well-spiced Breading, it was with some added to Salads and others used simply as Dippers than many were heard saying “better than Cane’s,” apparently high praise while the Bird on Brioche also went quickly, most preferring “Shaq Daddy” to Superman as the former comes across something like a Cuban Sandwich thanks to tangy Carolina Sauce, Ham and Swiss.
Creating additional fans by way of BC Fries, the ultra-thin Spuds eating more like seasoned Chips than actual French Fries and thus traveling well without sog, it was with amusement that many posed for pictures with a Big Cookie before finally dividing and devouring, the Dough from Crumb Fairy Bakery in Van Nuys California more chewy than what was tasted at the Grand Opening while Organic Dark Chocolate helps keep sweetness in check.
N/A: Making it blog policy to not ‘rate’ places based on catering alone there is no doubt that Chefs Matt Piekarski and Silverman have created something far better than expected at Big Chicken, and whether enjoyed on-site or at the Office the product outperforms the competition at a fair price considering Ingredient quality.
RECOMMENDED: Shaq Daddy Slider, Chicken Strips, Shaq Sauce, BC Fries, Asian Chicken Noodle Salad.
AVOID: BBQ Chicken Salad would have benefitted from a little less moisture, though the flavor is excellent.
TIP: Open 11a through 1a Sunday through Thursday, until 2am on Fridays and Saturday. Delivery currently only offered if appropriate staffing is available.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Vanilla Gelato with Candied Nuts and Warm Chocolate
Traditional Panettone with Cream
Homemade Millefoglie with Crème Chantilly
While few save for moneyed tourists may realize Wynn recently added “Plaza Shops” including the likes of Kiton and Stefano Ricci word is beginning to spread regarding another sort of Italian import, the Cipriani family having chosen the lower level as a place to bring over eighty-five years of tradition with their first Restaurant west of the Mississippi River.
Known simply as Cipriani, an iconic logo prominently displayed on everything from signage to silverware, guests entering the Restaurant will immediately feel transported to a space miles from both The Strip and shopping, an interior from Michele Bonan intended to represent the core of a yacht with polished wood and plush seating beneath sizable art pieces, the bar and bathroom even going so far as to add portholes with looped LCD video of the open sea.
Famous for the Food and Beverage of Giuseppe Cipriani, a story that began at Harry’s Bar in Venice and now spans twelve cities around the globe, it is immediately upon entry that suited staff offers greetings, a variety of low-slung seating options spreading left and right while a private dining room is also offered for larger groups.
Authentically Italian and still family owned, a fourth generation continuing on the motto “to serve is first to love,” it is with Water poured and Bread offered that guests are left to decide amongst options from a menu that changes twice daily, the $17 Bellini originally invented by Cipriani in 1948 a popular way to start and although pricey certainly not lacking in ingredient quality while thinly shaved Carpaccio “alla Cipriani” is also highly recommended by staff.
Undoubtedly an elegant space, the requested Business Casual dress code met by charming servers that exude hospitality, additional Appetizers include Baby Artichokes imported straight from one of Venice’s many Islands plus creamy Salt Cod, the former sous-vided and extremely tender while the Fish whipped with Cream is better than any tasted in Italy, and something that cannot be found anywhere else in Las Vegas.
Maintaining its traditional feel with a heavily European staff, many including Pizzaiolo Ismaele Romano born in Italy and a visit to the kitchen finding several speaking their native language, it was with a textbook Margherita Pizza featuring good char and a puffy Cornicione that Entrees were preceded, Cipriani’s signature Tagliolini immediately proving worthy of praise with Praga Ham and thin Noodles beneath baked Cheese while Risotto portioned out tableside was tender but not soft and teaming with Mushrooms.
Neither wowed nor disappointed by Chilean Seabass “alla Carlina,” both the mild Fish and accompanying Rice Pilaf nicely cooked but not particularly exciting, it was Cipriani’s Homemade Potato Gnocchi that wrestled away the spotlight thanks to thick Gorgonzola and Cream that anchored feather-light Dumplings, a Double Espresso made from good Beans plus tiny Butter Cookies soon arriving to cleanse the palate in preparation for Dolce.
Offering nothing but luxury and exemplary Ingredients to this point, factors that earned Harry’s Bar recognition as a national landmark in 2001, it can safely be said that no meal at Cipriani is complete without tasting a slice of airy Vanilla Crème Meringue, though that most certainly should not preclude a sharable bowl of made-to-order Gelato served with candied Nuts and Chocolate nor seasonal Panettone imported from Venice – both Las Vegas’ best – while a Millefoglie suggested “to be shared” presumes guests will actually want to let anyone else get a taste after their first bite of something so refined and texturally masterful.
FOUR AND A HALF STARS: Although most traveling gastronomes will say Venice is more about the canals and culture than cuisine, those same folks also more likely to cite Las Vegas as a place for gambling or a show than one of its fine Restaurants, the Cipriani family now calls both cities home and for those seeking authentic Italian Food without going broke the new location at Wynn offers exactly that inside a great room with service to match.
RECOMMENDED: Baccala Mantecato with Fried Polenta, Margherita Pizza, Baked Tagliolini with Praga Ham, Homemade Potato Gnocchi “al Gorgonzola,” Vanilla Crème Meringue, Vanilla Gelato with Candied Nuts and Warm Chocolate, Traditional Panettone with Cream, Homemade Millefoglie with Crème Chantilly.
AVOID: House Bread is pretty basic, as is Chilean Seabass “alla Carlina,” while $17 for a Bellini that is at most 2.5oz seems a tough sell in a city where “bottomless” can be found for $20.
TIP: Lunch Daily 11:30am–4:00pm, Dinner Sun-Thu 4:00pm–11:00pm and Fri-Sat 4:00pm–12:00am. Whole Panettone also for sale in store.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Penelope – RubySnap Fresh Cookies Peanut Butter Truffle
Virginia – RubySnap Fresh Cookies Dark Molasses Ginger
Maris – RubySnap Fresh Cookies Chewy Chocolate Caramel
Mia – RubySnap Fresh Cookies Vanilla Bean Buttercream Beet
Judy – RubySnap Fresh Cookies Orange Zest Cream Cheese
Trudy – RubySnap Fresh Cookies Classic Chocolate Chip
Madbrook Donut Company Texas Donut with Blueberry Icing
Churro-rific Cruller
Glazed Yeast Twist
Glazed Old Fashioned Donut
Glazed Plain Cake Donut
Lemon Filled Vanilla Frosting Donut
When Glazier’s Food Marketplace on Warm Springs Road shuttered in early 2018 many were expectedly upset, the fact that a store featuring several beloved recipes from Helen Glazier would become yet another Smith’s in reality a sign of the times, but a look at the Bakery this weekend attests to a place at least trying to win back some “foodies” with products from Utah’s RubySnap Fresh Cookies and Madbrook Donut Company.
Located at 8525 West Warm Springs just off Durango, the fact that Sin City’s “Southwest Marketplace” is nowhere near the southern or western edge of town attesting to rapid growth over the past decade, it is immediate-left of entry that shoppers will quickly notice many of Kroger Brand’s usual Cakes and Pies before finding small sign describing Madbrook Donut Company, a quick read suggesting that *only* “Texas Donuts” are imported from the family-owned company out of Utah and a taste likely confirming this later.
Speaking first to other selections, Glazier’s collection reportedly created by Wayne of Donut Mania long gone, even the low price of 59-cents offers no reason to investigate Rings such as the crumbly plain Cake or misshaped Old Fashioned that tastes of nothing but Glaze, a “Churro-rific” Donut of the month also an embarrassment to Crullers everywhere thanks to a complete lack of lightness or any Egg flavor.
Finding at least a proper rise in the Glazed Twist, though Smith’s Lemon Bismark reverted right back to awful by way of congealed center, it was finally here that the $2.50 monster from Utah proved worth its weight and cost, the interior soft and springy like Brioche while Frosting tasted surprisingly natural thanks to plenty of actual Blueberries.
Moving next to Cookies, Salt Lake City’s RubySnap actually inspiring the visit to Smith’s after a worthless trip to Crumbl, the counter selling ten flavors is found directly across from Donuts and with hours from 10:30a until 7:30p assuring freshness the $2.50 rounds made from all-natural ingredients are a decided step in the right direction.
Famous for unique flavors built on tradition, each Cookie given a name and sold cheaper in bulk, it was after noting frozen Dough for home baking that six choices were made to the tally of $13.50, first bites of “Trudy” rich with Butter plus a light bit of Cinnamon that helps to accentuate melty Chocolate Chips while a half-dipped Peanut Butter “Penelope” is thick and not too far off from Reese’s Cup in terms of flavor.
Immediately loving Virginia, warm Baking Spices and lots of Molasses all the better warmed, don’t sleep on Maris either as molten Caramel comes sandwiched between layers of Dark Chocolate, though if forced to prioritize calories or stomach space this is one to share so a taste can be had of RubySnap’s Original or Orange Sugar Cookie topped in Beet Buttercream and tangy Cream Cheese Frosting, respectively.
Key Lime Pie – Whipped Cream, Graham Cracker Crust
Banana Cream Pie – Foster Sauce, Pralines
Fortunate to have visited the Miami landmark during a good season it wasn’t until Friday that Joe’s Seafood, Prime Steak & Stone Crab was experienced here in Las Vegas, the 1913 building re-imagined inside Caesars Forum Shops bearing little resemblance to the original either in the heavily wooded main room or an upstairs space designed for private events.
No doubt targeting tourists and apparently doing well, the fact that Caesars’ Joe’s does not close during “off season” all the comment that is necessary regarding a focus on quantity over quality, it was after climbing stairs to a PDR already half-full with guests that sign-in took place, the prix-fixe menu not a bad collection though service was clearly of a “get in and get out with the least interruption possible” mindset.
Served in four courses with two offering a choice, Drink “tickets” handed out allowing for Domestic Beer or one of three budget Wines, it was with fairly good Prosecco that Appetizers were eaten, the Calamari pretty basic but thankfully not oily while overcooked Shrimp “de Jonghe” an basic stuffed Mushrooms both used plenty of Garlic and Breadcrumbs to help overcome their shortcomings in sourcing.
Offered Salad and Bread next, the latter highlighted by tender Corn Muffins that even warm could not melt pucks of icy Butter, it was with most Rolls inexplicably collected quickly that entrees arrived, the Crab Cakes thankfully all-Meat though not particularly memorable otherwise while Sashimi Grade Tuna atop fried Potatoes with convincing Bordelaise was certainly better and actually something worth seeking out in terms of taste and texture.
Rounding out the evening with Dessert, the effort to obtain Coffee deemed unjustified, it was from a fraction of Joe’s Cakes and Pies that Key Lime and Banana Cream were selected, the former identical to its Miami counterpart but larger in portion while Bananas relied too much on sugary “Foster Sauce” for sweetness and fell far short of Emeril’s version offered at MGM or The Venetian.
TWO AND A HALF STARS: Probably not the ideal setting to experience Joe’s Las Vegas outpost, though considering the sponsor’s investment one would have at least expected gracious service, it seems as though this house of Seafood, Prime Steak & Stone Crab prefers dollars to quality or execution and that is precisely why chains no matter how “upscale” are rarely worth visiting once one has already dined at the original.
Chef’s Salad – Kale, Arugula, Spinach, Bell Pepper, Pickled Red Onion, Cherry Tomato, Cauliflower, Apple, Maple Sunflower Seeds, Hard Boiled Egg, Baked Falafel, Herb Dressing
Matcha, Peanut and White Chocolate Chip Monster Cookie
Having gone three months without a visit from Ramir Bolanos DeCastro it was once again that Purple Potato was ordered for #supportlocal lunch on Thursday, the Chef again arriving early with a good variety of choices both healthy and gluttonous, meaty or vegan.
Never a man to remain idle, the same creativity that once made Yonaka an off-Strip favorite now offered at a more accessible price point in Henderson, it was from the store at 10090 South Eastern Avenue that bowls and trays arrived temperature appropriate and tempting, an unnamed “Chef’s Salad” featuring complex textures and lots of Herbs beneath boiled Eggs and housemade Falafel that was a touch dry due to baking but loaded with spice and great when mixed with the vast array of additional ingredients.
Moving next to two trays of Rice, both built on a steamy bed fragrant with Garlic, it was based on personal preference that diners opted almost 50/50 for Teriyaki Chicken or thick cuts of Pork Belly, the latter exceptionally supple which may be a turn-off to some but the flavor absolutely fantastic even without the poached Eggs and pickled Vegetables offered on-site as part of Purple Potato’s Brunch Menu.
Happy to announce a new partnership that should keep the Restaurant busy, an airline gig feeding those traveling out of McCarran, suffice it to say that anyone airborne would be lucky to feast on something like Chef DeCastro’s savory Doughnut packed with BBQ, the light Glaze and sidecar of spicy Jam all homemade and a testament to just how much effort goes into producing Food no one will ever call boring.
Equal in his ability to create sweets and savories, the Matcha Monster Cookie undergoing subtle changes and now even better thanks to White Chocolate, those seeking something Vegan-friendly would be well advised to investigate Dark Chocolate dubbed “Brownie” but more like Lava Cake while those without such dietary predilections will find the new Pistachio Cake crumbly like Torrone but even more buttery while the PB&J Monster Cookie is expectedly rich and potentially sharable thanks to its size, though based on how quickly they were gone probably better bought for solo consumption alongside Coffee or Milk.
N/A: Making it blog policy to not ‘rate’ places based on catering alone this is now the fourth time that Chef Ramir’s Henderson Restaurant has managed to impress a broad demographic of diners and with new Rice Bowls and Desserts it seems safer than ever to say that whether one chooses healthy or indulgent the results are bound to be delicious.
Triple on an Ube Waffle Cone – Pasteis de Nata Ice Cream, Pretzel + Rugbraud Ice Cream, Kinder Bueno Ice Cream
Triple on an Ube Waffle Cone – Alpine Forest Fruits Ice Cream, Chicha Morada Sorbet, Thai Tea Ice Cream
Inspired by travel and undoubtedly firm believers that not all who wander are lost it was pointing the GPS East that a stop was made at Wanderlust Creamery, the Atwater Village location not far from the former home of Canelé and their global collection of flavors amongst the most innovative and delicious tasted across America.
Owned and operated by Jon-Patrick Lopez and Adrienne Borlongan, the former lawyer providing financial backing to Ms. Borlongan’s talents fostered in Food Science, guests entering the shop at 3134 Glendale Boulevard will quickly notice the lack of cutesy design, a clean layout with some plants plus a board displaying flavors like destinations the only real additions to indoor and outdoor seating besides a chalkboard globe.
Offering several signatures and seasonal specials across four locations including that at Smorgasburg, the net cast wide and encompassing everything from Peru to Iceland, it was starting with what appears to be limitless samples that choices were made to construct ones perfect combination, those fond of fruit all raving “Alpine Forest Fruits” that see tart ribbons suspended in Gruyere Mousse while Smoky Road takes pointers from Campfire S’mores to reinvent a classic.
Trying best to pick complimentary flavors for a triple, the housebaked purple Cone clearly fresh and still with a bit of flex, it was from top to bottom that Iceland brought sweet and salty with distinct Rye notes before moving on Portuguese Egg Custard and broken bits of Shell, the final bites saved for what amounts to deconstructed Nutella under the name “Kinder Bueno” that, although European in origin, still means “Good.”
With locations in Tarzana and Silverlake Magpies Softserve represents the vision of owners Rose and Warren Schwartz, their self-professed dream of owning a Dessert Shop coming to fruition in 2016 and lines to this day indicating they’re doing something a little different from the likes of Mister Softee or Dairy Queen.
Espousing words like scratch-made and artisan to describe the concept, a collection of flavors hatched from nostalgia and childhood memories developed during a Korean American upbringing, it is from bases both Dairy and Vegan that guests are invited to taste before making selections, the smoothness expected but complexity frankly unprecedented and nearly reaching the level of nearby Scoop Shops.
Taking on the status quo with an array of international flavors, Lady Grey inspired by Tea and Horchata virtually identical to the Cinnamon Rice Milk found at any authentic Mexican joint in town, it was after samples including airy Toasted Marshmallow that choices were made, a bowl of Horchata weighted out with housemade Sprinkles plus one slice of Softserve Pie.
Not inexpensive but less pricy than Jeni’s or Salt & Straw by volume, the total just under $10 including tax and tip for friendly service (plus an extra sample past Magpies listed limit off two,) it was from a plastic clamshell that one of Rose’s best-sellers was unlocked, the “Fried Softserve Pie” originally created as a to-go option spawning several other crusted concoctions though it is hard to imagine any rival the marvelous texture of Vegan Corn Almond Soft Serve atop a Graham Crust with Vegan Fudge, Non-Dairy Whipped Cream and Corn Flakes plus Honeycomb Candy for crunch.
