Located at Carrer d’Enric Granados 15, the nearby University of Barcelona providing a steady stream of traffic during a particularly warm Wednesday in September, it was as an afternoon snack that two visitors sat down at DeLaCrem, the Gelateria opened in 2010 still considered the best in the city with a rotating selection of over one hundred flavors with at least eight new ones available monthly.
Originally opened as just a Gelato Shop, the small space since expanding to offer Espresso and a few baked goods with everything made on site and hours beginning at 13h00 on Weekdays and at 09h30 Saturday, it was stepping around a small group enjoying their scoops that the tight store was entered shortly after 15h00, the staff bilingual and happy to offer samples though visibly a bit stressed as every seat in the place was filled with more orders coming.
Focusing on classic Italian methods and mostly Organic ingredients, the Milk and Eggs all sourced locally with a focus on Nuts and seasonal Fruits, it should go without saying that although some atypical flavors are found amongst DeLaCrem’s collection the vast majority are fairly traditional, the single type of Chocolate bitter and dark while Fruits such as Apple and Grape were each far lighter and very refreshing.
Invited to decide amongst several sizes, the largest offering up to four flavors for just €5, it was with the aforementioned Grape alongside Fig, Pistachio and creamy Caramel that a gaping Waffle Cone was topped, each flavor a pure expression of quality ingredients while a slice of Orange Carrot Cake was unfortunately not particularly reminiscent of either Orange or Carrot and remarkably dry as well.
Savory Walnut Candy with Mango, Tonka Beans and Whiskey
Smoked Instant Apple Cider
Mille Feuille of Idiazabal
Mandarin Flower Wafer
Disfrutar’s Gilda
Gazpacho Sandwich with Vinegar Garnish
Super Tender Almonds in Vinaigrette
Crispy Egg Yolk with Mushrooms Gelatin
Multi Spherical Tatin of Foie Gras and Corn
Ceviche Deconstruction
Salmon Ribs with Tarragon Mojo
Razor Clams and Seaweed in Salt
Our Macaroni Carbonara
Liquid Salad, Tomato Polvoron and Arbequina Oil Caviar
Sea Cucumber Noodles
Langoustine in Suquet, Cappuccino Suquet
Pigeon Consommé with Tarragon
Pigeon and its Liver BonBon
Laksa
Pibil Style Pigeon
Pandan
Black Sesame Cone
Cherries 2017
Tarta Al Whiskey
Coffee Swiss Roll
Cotton of Cocoa and Mint
Already a Michelin Star recipient and seeing a marked increase in interest since being named the “Miele One to Watch” winner at the 50 Best Awards earlier this year it was for lunch on Wednesday that a seat was taken at Disfrutar, former El Bulli Chefs Mateu Casañas, Oriol Castro and Eduard Xatruch putting on quite a show and packing the place even as many claim that “molecular cuisine” has run its course.
Translated as “to enjoy” in English, the restaurant’s signage going so far as to create its first letter from in the form of a smile as a sort of wink towards the experience diners are promised within, it was just prior to 13h00 that a short queue stood in front of 163 Calle Villarroel, the doors soon to unlock and guests quickly guided through a narrow bar as well as the kitchen en route to the expansive dining room complete with outdoor garden.
A completely self-funded operation, the three friends expressing in multiple interviews how their collective process is essential to the restaurant and a continuous goal of refining and perfecting each guest’s experience, it is at both banquets and tables in a room of layered textures that seats are offered, the service a perfect blend of personality and professionalism that is absolutely essential given both the pace of the meal and the number of tableside presentations.
Offering three menus, one classic and one seasonal with the longest a blend of the two that totals 32 items it was with all allergies and aversions declined that the Menu Disfrutar was selected, the first bite arriving less than two minutes later featuring light-as-air Passionfruit Ice mellowed by Rum followed by a swirling bowl revealing Beet Sugar Meringue and a Rose from which perfumed Gelee are licked off before finishing with a frozen “Raspberry” made entirely of Lychee.
Dining without pairings, a vocal table to the right from San Francisco frequently heard complaining about both the rapid pace of the meal and how Wine never lasted long enough for all the courses with which it was intended to be consumed, it was tuning them out and focusing on the intended experience that dish four immediately raised eyebrows by packing hot bread with Cream and pristine Fish Eggs, the brine washing over the palate in a very pleasant way and lingering there until it was cleared just a few moments later by an edible Walnut Packet and Mango poached in Vanilla with Whiskey.
At this point setting up a boiling tableside contraption for later, the Chefs featuring several fluids as part of the menu either as dishes themselves or as compliments to another flavor, it was as the “Smoked Instant Apple Cider” boiled that a crunchy Mille Feuille of Idiazabal Mousse was enjoyed before a floral Communion Wafer sandwich, “Disfrutar’s Gilda” next on the list with slices of Mackerel and Anchovy served next to styles of Olive both pure and modified.
Impressed by the Gazpacho Sandwich, a Macaroon-textured two-bites that taste exactly like the namesake Soup, it was in follow-up that both raw Almonds and Nut Pudding were served in a bubbling broth followed by a fried Yolk over an Egg filled with Mushroom Consommé, the “Multi Spherical Tatin of Foie Gras and Corn” taking Ferran Adria’s Olives to a new level with eighteen individual bubbles served on buttery pastry layered with Foie Gras.
Not particularly impressed by “Ceviche Deconstruction,” the Ice and Panna Cotta textures contrasting oddly on the palate, it was with the ship back on course that tiny bites of Bone-In Salmon with their Roe were presented next, the Salt-Roasted Razor Clams unearthed tableside another very impressive dish that married performance to flavor as was “Our Macaroni Carbonara” that eschewed Italy by way of Cream from an ISI container and perfectly al dente “Noodles” made of Gelatin.
Continuing to dance back and forth between rich flavors and light ones, the duo of Liquid Salad and a Tomato Shortbread refreshing before again diving deep to taste “Noodles” of Sea Cucumber, spicy Mussel Laksa and Langoustine Stew served next to foamy Bisque of the same, fans of Fowl will no doubt be impressed by the three-part finale of cold Pigeon Consommé, an Offal Bon-Bon and Pibil-style Breast with Baby Corn and pickled Onions used to offset light heat and a pronounced acidity.
Bridging savory to sweet with Pandan in several textures, the leaves presented as part of a description of the plant for those unfamiliar, it was with the sweetened flavors of Black Sesame that the meal marched onward, one real Cherry and one made of Ice Cream offered next before guests were asked to consume a boozy two-part “Cream Pie” after washing their hands with a shot of Single Malt Whiskey.
At this point just 130 minutes in, the kitchen’s suggested pace perfect for solo diners and those visiting the restaurant to dine as opposed to reminisce, it was after a bitter-sweet Swiss-Roll that tasted like Tiramisu that the meal’s final plate arrived, a single puff of Cotton Candy plucked from a blooming plant with the bold up-front flavor of Chocolate and cooling linger of Mint.
Originally opened in 1870 on Carrer d’en Xuclà, at that time a dairy and only to become Granja M. Viader in 1910 under a the ownership of a man named Marc who subsequently turned the space into a workshop, kitchen and counter that spawned several locations and pasteurization facilities before the wars, those visiting Barcelona in 2017 will find the current store near the Museum of Contemporary Art much like an American deli, the small made-to-order menu served alongside cases filled with a variety of Meats, Sweets and Cheeses.
Previously a favorite of the likes of Pablo Picasso and other poets and artists living in the area, their Milk and Eggs still brought from Cardedeu and several Cheeses and Creams made on site, it is with invitations from staff that guests are invited to sit down at low tables surrounded by relics and old photos, the menu available in several languages featuring several enticing choices though on this particular day the housemade Horchata was unfortunately sold out.
Doing an impressive job of listing allergens and ingredients by way of symbols on the menu, everything from Gluten and Dairy to Sulfites and Soy included, it was after a bit of perusal that the decision was made to order five items which were delivered to the table in less than ten minutes, two orders of Churros piping hot from the fryer and ready to be dipped into thick Dark Chocolate – though actually quite good and surprisingly light beneath just a hasty shake of Granulated Sugar.
Moving next to a dish listed as “Pa de Pessic,” the translation as suggested by Google simply “Spongecake,” what arrived from the kitchen at Granja M. Viader for €1.80 was instead a fluffy sort of fried Pastry something like an American “Elephant Ear” topped in Confectioners’ Sugar, the interior wispy with good yeastiness while a large dish of Catalan Cream was served room temperature, creamy and sweet with a touch of bitterness from the just-torched top.
Personally not the sort to stay at swanky hotels, but happy to benefit from the on-site dining options available to those who prioritize such things, it was for an early breakfast in Barcelona that a stop was made at Forn Baluard where an impressive Pastry display and pleasant seating awaits those with reservations at Hotel Praktik Bakery while those just visiting are invited to enjoy their food on either the patio or standing inside depending on availability.
Conceptualized by Anna Bellsolà, her childhood raised in bakeries by bakers clearly giving her an education in and passion for great Bread and classic techniques that have since birthed both her original store and the one now incorporated into the boutique hotel, guests arriving at Hotel Praktik by either the street or elevator will quickly be struck by the sheer volume of daily options, nearly three-dozen styles of Bread offered in the Restaurant’s repertoire along with nearly as many sweet and savory smaller items available daily.
Featuring counter-style ordering and quick lines, the whole process of ordering, paying and collecting goods easily completed in less than ten minutes even with a line that trickled out the door, it was with the space fairly busy on a Wednesday that two guests were offered seats on the patio where a rough-speaking smoker had unfortunately already taken up residence, the smell of cigarettes unfortunately compromising things a bit though first bites of the oven-warmed Ham and Brie Croissant still spoke of good things to come with the outside flaky and interior structure well maintained even though the buttery Viennoiserie had been sliced.
Not known as a city for great Bread, the few historic bakeries of Barcelona mostly focusing on Desserts and Cakes with the artisan baking movement really only beginning to catch on in the last decade, it was with the Ham and Cheese saved for those more fond of savory breakfasts that attention next focused on two filled Croissants, the Almond unfortunately a bit too moist with filling that was neither Frangipane nor overly sweet but still too thick while the White Chocolate Marzipan option fared far better with airy pockets inside and plenty of creamy half-melted Chocolate Chips.
Mostly impressed by the quality considering the volume, a wedge of Blueberry Coffee Cake slightly drier than those found Stateside but still pleasant with a lot of natural Fruit flavor, those looking for Forn Baluard’s standout items should take a look at those filled with Custard, the glazed Apricots atop a lightly browned Crust still nice and sour with soft flesh while the Pinenut Brioche was soft and eggy even on the ends, not to mention the middle which was saturated and topped with Toasted Pinenuts and the contrasting texture of Pearl Sugar.
Albert i Noya El Celler Brut Rva DO Classic Penedes
The World: Thai Chicken, Coriander, Coconut, Curry, Lime / Japanese Miso Cream and Nyinyonyaki / Turkish Lamb, Yogurt, Cucumber, Onions, Mint / Peru Causa Limena / Korea Panko Bread, Bacon, Soya, Kimchi, Sesame Oil
Caviar Bauble
Memories of a Bar in the Suburbs of Girona: Campari BonBon, Montse’s Meat Cannelloni, Pigeon BonBon, Breaded Squid, Patata Bravas
Starfish of Cuttlefish
Coral: Escabeche Mussels, Pesto Razor Clam
Green Olive’s Ice Cream
St. George’s Mushroom BonBon
Truffle Brioche
Tomato Spiral, Olive Spiral, Baguette, Olive and Apricot, Cereal Bread, Sourdough, Olive Oil Focaccia, Red Wine Wheat
Consommé Gelee of Red Mullet : Kombu, Saffron, Charcoal, Garlic, Tomato, Fennel
Oyster: Fennel Sauce, Black Garlic, Apple Seaweed, Mushroom, Distilled Earth, Sea Anemone
To hear Restaurants, the Food Media and Public Relations companies discuss dining today the entire establishment would seem to revolve around metrics and although the actual impact of Instagram and “influencers” is still undetermined compared to world of fashion there is no doubt Michelin and San Pellegrino’s “World’s 50 Best” list still carry a lot of weight with Chefs, at least enough that a place like El Celler de Can Roca can require reservations a year in advance and still be filled every day despite a somewhat remote location in the city of Girona.
For all intents and purposes a traditional Catalan restaurant, brothers Joan, Jordi and Josep originally opening a place of their own in 1986 next to their parents restaurant and eventually moving to the current location in 2007 after an embrace of the Modernist techniques trickling down from Ferran Adria at El Bulli, El Celler de Can Roca in 2017 finds itself a Michelin 3* property highly ranked on several international lists and with guests playing internet roulette at the start of each month for a reservation often times as far as 390 days away the bar is set high, a perhaps unfair expectation of any ‘meal’ but one that food, service and presentation all set out to meet.
No doubt a polarizing restaurant, its detractors commenting on the unnecessary showmanship and some misfires while fans go on about the 60,000+ Bottle Wine cellar and how well it pairs with the elaborate display of textures and flavors unveiled over three and a half hours, it is after a pleasant drive from Barcelona that most will find themselves parked in a private lot across from the sprawling wooden structure filled with no less than 40 Chefs and an equally large front of house, the visit beginning with a trip through the kitchen before guests are led to tables surrounding a glass-enclosed garden at the center.
Offering two distinct tasting menus, one a collection of classics and the other a “Feast” of flavors from the current season, almost every table within eyeshot going for the later with the restaurant’s volume surprisingly loud compared to most in its league despite only seating 46 diners, it was with a glass of Cava poured that dining quickly got underway, the puzzle-box globe presenting flavors from around the World that must be dialed into position in order to release a rounded Gelatin of Caviar inside.
Now designing their own serviceware for several seasons, a concept similarly adopted by other top restaurants around the world that will frequently see diners plucking items from makeshift Trees, Coral Reefs or textured plates, it was here that a “pop-up” book was used to present memories of the Brothers’ past, the five bites covering everything from Bitter to Sweet, Sour and Salty with the follow-up duo of a Starfish made from diced Cuttlefish and Mussels with Razor Clams equally elaborate in their presentation before canapés ended with a Olive Ice Cream on a tree, Mushroom “Rocks” and fluffy Truffle Brioche.
Expressing a lot of confidence in the staff and high hopes that diners are willing to try everything but true allergens, the use of ingredients indigenous to the area making much of the menu pescetarian, it is after an impressive Bread service that individual plates begin to roll out of the kitchen at intervals of fifteen to twenty minutes, the first of these a clear gelatin of Red Mullet topped with textures including crispy Skin and dots of Vegetables and Herbs all on the backdrop of Saffron while a follow-up of one Oyster divided into five parts focuses the diner on different aspects of the Bivalve’s flavor with the most impressive found in Apple-sweetened Seaweed and the salt-magnifying flavor of Sea Anemone.
Felt to be a little too aggressively ‘fishy’ by the other person at the table, a matter of taste to be sure though the Roca Brothers’ embrace of Iodine and fermented flavors is definitely more prominent than many, course three lightened things up with a plump Langoustine served in browned Butter, Vanilla and foam of Sagebrush while both the Mackerel and Prawn again went bold with the former actually quite enjoyable to everyone thanks to the zig-zagged Bean Paste that grew milder from top to bottom.
Continuing to play with textures throughout the meal, occasionally in the unnecessary ways that have given “molecular cuisine” a bad name but usually to good effect, it was in a plate of Cuttlefish stuffed with Vegetables next to a starchy Sauce reportedly made from nothing but Black Rice allowed to break down that one of El Celler de Can Roca’s best courses was found immediately before its biggest failure, a nicely cooked cut of Turbot that was unfortunately completely lost in what can only be described as pickled Cream.
Taking a step back with heavier proteins, the texture modifications still at play but flavors of Wild Game and farm-raised Animals allowed to shine with accoutrements playing a supporting role, fans of Fowl will no doubt be impressed by both the Duck with Creamed Corn and a fresh Fig as well as the elegantly plated Squab with decorative details made from Offal Terrine while those not shy about nose-to-tail butchery will find both the fatty Pig with crisp Skin and the study of Lamb delicious with the latter gamey in a good way and no two bites of either dish even remotely the same.
Transitioning savory to sweet in levels, “The Plant from Roots to Flowers” moving from top to bottom with a perfume of Sand and Licorice progressing to the flavor of Fruits and Flowers, it was with intentionally unbalanced utensils that guests were challenged to eat Honey Ice Cream with Herbs from a cast iron Tree Stump, Jordi Roca’s new-classic entitled “Old Book” finishing things off in a marvelous Mille-Feuille on its side featuring the distillate of a Book boiled for 48 hours in Oil and Butter Cookie Crisps plus Cream perfumed with Tea.
Now well past midnight, a double Espresso served without the requested Ice fortifying spirits for an hour-long ride back to the hotel, it was with greetings from two of the brothers that guests were sent off after a visit from the Pastry Cart, well over a dozen items offered but staff taking liberties to decide and gifting the table booked a year prior the flavors of Apples, Yuzu, Chocolate and Whiskey Ganache.
Featuring three locations and a lengthy history as one of Barcelona’s premier Pastry Shops it was only a matter of time before Pastisseria Escriba figured its way into travel plans, late Dessert before heading to Girona finding the shop at Carrer de les Floristes de la Rambla not too busy with shelves well-stocked and staff as informative as they were friendly.
Originally opened in 1906 and still a family-run enterprise, current owner Antoni Escriba and his team subscribing to the same philosophy as those before them with a focus on classic tastes with elegant designs to commemorate all occasions, it is even before guests poke their head through the doors of Escriba that most will realize this is not the average pastry shop, a current lineup of women’s high heels made entirely of Chocolate decorating the windows alongside Wedding Cakes and flowers in step with the season.
Offering everything from Cookies and Croissants to Wedding Cakes and elegant individual Pastries, a variety of items available for sample including two styles of tiny Biscuits that were fairly mundane near the register, it was passing over many tempting choices that the decision was made to split three small Desserts and two Viennoiserie, the Caramelized Apple Empanada unexpectedly warm considering the time of day and quite flaky with a good crunch, though overall it would have benefitted from a bit more Fruit inside.
Moving next to a Raspberry Croissant, the lamination still very obvious though the texture of the bottom had unfortunately been compromised by sweet red gel with a texture more like Pate de Fruit than actual Jam, it was after a young woman presented to add warm Sauce to both the Tire and the Sheep that the rest of the goods were tasted, a branded half-Coconut filled with Dark Chocolate, Coconut Cream and Mango Jam resembling an Egg’s Yolk clever and light while the Paris Brest’s Choux was crisp around Hazelnut Cream, though the highlight of the visit was undoubtedly “Ovellla” with its layers of Nougat, White Chocolate, Yellow Cake and caramelized Pecan Frosting.
Hard Torron, Traditional Torron, White Chocolate Pistachio, Chocolate Hazelnut
Gema Cremada
Albert Adria Natura – Gin & Tonic, Olive Oil and Dark Chocolate, Yuzu
Featuring several locations around the Globe, without doubt a more ‘tourist friendly’ place than Turrones Ramos in Valencia, it was after a visit to Sagrada Família Basilica that a stop was made at Torrons Vicens, the staff unequivocally friendly with plenty of samples available including Chocolates made in collaboration with Michelin-starred Chef Albert Adria.
Originally founded in 1775 and still family owned, years of fame and intelligent investing allowing the company to expand into several International markets and styles of Nougat and Chocolate including a Sugar-Free line said to be indistinguishable from the real thing, it was just after 15h00 that the lengthy store on Carrer Provença was entered, a greeter at the door quickly leading patrons to a serving dish of four chopped treats, both the White Chocolate and Pistachio Block as well as Dark Chocolate and Hazelnut sort of like American Holiday “Bark” and pleasant enough while the hard and moist Torron were both very sweet, actually quite a bit moreso than Ramos or La Turronería Iváñez in Bilbao.
Quite the operation, the company now with nearly three dozen stores including a Turron Museum outside of Lleida that many have said to be worth the drive, it was walking deeper into the space that guests found themselves tempted by Bars, Tablets and Chocolate Bon-Bons, a trio of samples from the ElBarri collection all delightful with the Gin & Tonic particularly well crafted and the Olive Oil filled version simple and clean while exaggerating the fruity flavors of the Cocoa.
Picking up some gifts for others plus a few small bars for later it was finally en route to the register that eyes fell upon a package titled Gema Cremada, the Candy that is apparently quite popular around holidays without a doubt the most impressive thing tasted at Vicens with a creamy body made from Marzipan and Sugar beneath a brûléed exterior that helps to mellow the sweetness while also adding a remarkable texture that compelled the purchase of a weighty €7 package for the road.
Roasted Red Pepper Flat Bread with Herring Oil and Anchovy Ganache
Langoustine, Prawn and Fish Tartare, Boccato di Cardinale
Tuna with Sherry Tomato and Acidulated Lemon Juice
Rockfish Rice
Grilled Turbot with Oyster Romesco and stuffed Courgette
Sourdough
French Fries and Iberico
Roasted Chicken and Pumpkin Ravioli with Cheese Cream and Ginger
Striploin with Roasted Sweetbreads and Chicory
Menjar Blanc with Seasonal Fruit and Cava Gelee
Citric Souffle with Fruit Salad and Orange Ice Cream
Chocolate Cake with Pickled Plum Ice Cream
Double Espresso
Caramelized White Chocolate and Vanilla Bean Macaron
Open from Monday through Friday at Ronda Sant Antoni 41, the relocation over one year ago apparently still a secret to the manufacturer of Audi’s GPS (and several late arriving guests who were overheard telling the receptionist that they’d gone to the former location first,) Alkimia by Jordi Vila is one of those polarizing Michelin Stars that has many supporters but an equal number of people who claim the restaurant in “terrible,” a visit on Tuesday afternoon validating both opinions in one way or another.
Set-up as a sort of clandestine space, the buzzer near a small sign at the door allowing guests with reservations to be rang in before climbing stairs lined in wrought iron, it is upon reaching the top that a large wall of fluid-filled vessels looms with the foyer to the right, a reservationist speaking slow and monotone before leading parties to the dining area where things thankfully lighten up.
Clearly an expensive restaurant, the Chef’s agreement to design a menu for longtime Brewery Moritz in 2011 still an ongoing partnership that assuredly helped Vila build-out the space next door with a modern open kitchen, digital screens and elegant softening touches beneath the original painted ceiling, it was at a table only feet away from the line that a seat was offered, the menu divided into two tastings and an a la carte section with the shorter Jordi Vila menu described as “more traditional” across-the-board more appealing on this particular afternoon.
Named after the Spanish word for Alchemy, though in reality not nearly as Modernist or ‘molecular’ as such a title would suggest as Chef Vila instead looks to rejuvenate tradition by way of technique-driven cooking featuring high quality products, it was with Wine declined and Water poured that the menu quickly got underway without an amuse, the Roasted Red Pepper Flat Bread smoky and sweet in front of a glass filled with bitter Granita and topped with a leaf of Lettuce filled with herbal crumbs and a sort of Cannelloni filled with Anchovy Paste.
Continuing strong with Seafood, a plate of Tartare absolutely pristine with tender chunks of sweet flesh playing well off tangy Yogurt, it was next that a Red Prawn with Caviar was served, the flavor immediately ‘off’ with an intensely bitter liquid gushing forth as the Head was squeezed and something, that if intentional, seems severely misguided as it immediately made one wish the next course would come and additionally threatened to spoil the rest of the meal.
Still reeling from the Prawn, a description of what had been experienced brushed away as “yes, it is intense” by the server who thankfully brought course three no more than two minutes later, suffice it to say that “Tuna with Sherry Tomato and Acidulated Lemon Juice” was definitely better than the Prawn but still not particularly well-made as the Fish got lost amongst competing ingredients, the Rockfish Rice pleasant and texturally intriguing despite the fact that the protein was slightly overcooked amidst tender Grains and a net of aged Manchego.
Said to be a master of Catalonian cuisine, a focus on ‘modern, fresh and light’ methods used to coax the best out of his ingredients, it was finally with a meaty Filet of Turbot that Vila and his team served a dish that was truly remarkable as the Oyster Cream and Squash Blossom stuffed with earthy flavors each contributed something different yet complimentary, the Sourdough used to wipe up some sauce a nice touch while the “French Fries and Iberico” follow-up was a throwaway course that seemed far too gimmicky.
Again showing some skill with flavor pairings by way of the Chicken and Pumpkin Ravioli, a very “Thanksgiving” sort of dish that found balance between freshly grated Ginger and a thick dollop of what tasted like Cottage Cheese, savories were rounded out by Medium-Rare slices of Beef set next to a Sweetbread cooked rubbery, the Almond Milk Palate Cleanser with Peaches pleasant enough as was the €14 a la carte add-on Lemon Soufflé served slightly browned with a sidecar of Fruit Salad and Orange Ice Cream that was added to the center of the red-hot baking dish immediately.
Told that Chef Vila also creates his own pastries, an impressive fact considering the fact that the combined menus contain a dozen daily, it was prior to a double Espresso that Dark Chocolate Cake with a texture like Pudding was enjoyed alongside Pickled Plum Ice Cream, the flavors complimentary and without a doubt the meal’s highlight besides the Turbot though the Mignardise of Caramelized White Chocolate and Vanilla Bean was also well executed with a clean break and smooth cream featuring restrained but lingering sweetness.
Located not far from Casa Milà, one of Gaudi’s many outlandish buildings in Barcelona, “The Pudding Bar” is listed as a “place of interest” or “activity” when looked up on GPS, a fact that seems fairly odd at first as the address clearly displays a menu next to the door but one that makes a little more sense on entry.
Affectionately known as just “Pudding” by locals, its 5+ years since opening as an “Eat+Play+Think” concept making the two-story space on Carrer Pau Claris very popular amongst stay-at-home mothers and their children thanks to Books, Board Games and comfy seating, guests entering Pudding will immediately be struck by decorations including a billowing big top and Alice in Wonderland-esque Mushrooms, everything appearing quite fantastic up front including a collection of counterside Cakes and Pastries.
Not to be confused with Pudding Coffee Shop, a sister business on Avinguda Diagonal without all the quirky decorations but far more books and games, it was with invitations to sit “anywhere you like” that two shabby-chic chairs were taken, both the length and depth of the room thankfully relegating the sound of laughter and occasional squeals of kids to little more than background chatter.
Offering Weekend Brunch plus an all-day menu of sweets and savories from 09h00 to 22h00 daily, the service very laid back as one man was tasked with going up-and-down stairs to serve both halves of the room while two women stood talking at the Register, it was nearly ten minutes before a menu was delivered and another dozen before orders were placed, the listed Walnut Pie not currently available and thus leading to a total of three sweets served alongside a bit of disappointment.
Amused by the setting with hopes that food would match, the distinctly American Desserts and kitschy design making one wonder if Pudding might be the work of overseas investors, it was not long at this point before plates were delivered with small bottles of water at €1 each, the €5 Carrot and Red Velvet Cakes both moist and richly flavored with thick layers of Cream Cheese Frosting that were not too sweet while the €3 Brownie stood out thanks to its layered effect with crispy bits both top and bottom surrounding a fudgy layer of Dark Chocolate at the center.
Unfortunately finding Can Ros closed for a two-week vacation, parking already paid for no doubt making it more opportune to grab something nearby than to walk for more highly regarded food, it was setting aside convenience that two guests made the fifteen minute trek on foot to La Pubilla for Breakfast on the first morning in Barcelona.
Said by many to be one of the best restaurants for casual Catalan cooking in the city, a location on Plaça de la Llibertat making the Restaurant a locals-only sort of place with no Spanish or English menus furthering that point, it was just past 09h00 that a seat was found inside the cozy confines and thanks to a one bilingual server it was not long before an order was placed, the menu entirely savory and offered six days a week from 08h30 until Midnight.
Visiting during an early hour filled with deliveries, the Beverage distributor creating quite a bit of noise as he placed several bottles of Booze and Water in a small cupboard across the way, it was with one of those bottles as well as two bitter Americanos that the meal got started, a basket of warm Sourdough that looked to have been made in-house actually quite impressive with a great Crust for such a small place as was the Tomato and Olive Oil brushed Bread served with a collection of Charcuterie including two types of dried Sausage brought in from elsewhere plus three housemade varieties ranging from a spicy red Meat laced with Cartilage to some pretty funky Headcheese.
Priced much lower than almost anywhere in town for the portion sizes and quality, a plate of rich Blood Sausage and two fried Eggs only €6.50 with nothing on the menu over €10 it was after another ten minutes that a sizable filet of Cod was delivered alongside even more bread, the line-caught Fish meaty and supple atop a bed of Spinach, Olive Oil and toasty Pine Nuts.
Making the midday drive from Valencia to Barcelona, a 3.5 hour trek up the coast that costs about €45 without accounting for gas, it was just past 21h00 that a party of two set out looking for dinner, almost every reputable Tapas Bar in town unfortunately packed with several “reserved” tables sitting empty, the eventual decision to wait it out at Alta Taberna Paco Meralgo based on a quoted wait of “a few minutes” that actually stretched on for just under an hour.
Without doubt a well established favorite of locals as well as tourists, the double-sided bar and ever-evolving menu scrawled in the window seeing lines from 20h00 opening until a post-midnight close every day of the year save for Christmas since 2002, Alta Taberna is part of the Grup Olivé Restaurant Group, their holdings entailing five spaces with the one on Carrer de Muntaner easily the most popular.
Proposed as a Spanish menu with Mediterranean and Catalan influences, the kitchen-centered room constantly in motion with guests in-wait given the choice of being constantly bumped into indoors or standing in streets full of cigarette smoke, those who either have the foresight to make reservations or who are willing to wait are eventually granted seating at either the bar or one of several high-tops, the menu available in both English and Spanish a sprawling list of Meats, Cheeses, Sandwiches, Vegetables and Desserts.
Minimal in its decoration, chalkboard specials, painted brick walls and mirrors the only thing to distract diners from a bounty of ingredients on display amidst a room whose decibel level occasionally reaches alarming values, it was just past 22h10 that seats were allocated at the bar in front of a young bilingual Female, the decision to order in courses encouraged and eventually entailing fourteen plates served over the course of nearly two hours.
Truly a sight to behold, the multitude of stations all working at a rapid pace to churn out plates for what must easily be seventy guests at peak times, it was not long after ordering that the first round of food arrived, a plate of Spain’s famous Acorn-fed Iberico Ham and Bread brushed in Tomatoes simple and pristine while three types of Croquettas were all creamy and delicious, though one does wonder about the naming of a Squid Ink-packed version after America’s 44th President…
Heavily focused on fried bites, the Tempura Vegetables with Teriyaki an out of place dish that was both unimpressive and overpriced at €8.10, those choosing to stick to Spanish classics will be well-rewarded by the crispy Potatoes in spicy Mayonnaise while the Omelette of tiny shrimp is served as a delicate net containing only enough Egg and Flour to hold it all together.
Offering items on Bread as “Montaditos,” the Steak Tartare a bit too finely chopped and thus mushy amidst Yolk and Herbs, another great three-bites was found in the seared slice of Duck Liver served atop Nut Bread with poached Apple, the flavors sweet and unctuous and a great lead-in to the tender Octopus served in the cooking liquid of Paprika and Onions.
Rounding out savories with Goat Cutlets in Onions and Carrots, the plate appearing to be little more than Bone actually hiding several ounces of lean and nutty Flesh, it was with the a la minute Mille-Feuille sold out that dessert instead included a tender Sponge Cake completely soaked in Chocolate and Booze alongside hot Crema Catalana and an unattractive but outstanding slice of Torrejas that was golden on the surface and sweet with the texture of Condensed Milk within.
Mackerel with Orange, Frozen and Dried Peas with Curry Ice Cream, Green Pea and Lemon Fish Ceviche, Pure Peeled Tomatoes
Mozzarella and Caviar, Kombu Cured Watermelon with Sesame, Uni Fritter
Green Tomato Soup emulsified with fresh Herbs and Pato Prawn
Valencia Oyster with Emulsion of Soup, Roe, Iceberg Lettuce, Avocado, Eucalyptus
Cubalibre of Foie Gras with Rum, Coke, Lemon Ice, Brioche
Red King Prawn from Denia with Swiss Shard and Bisque Tea
White Asparagus Ajoblanco with Grilled Tuna Belly
All I Pebre wih Swordfish
Rice Ashes with Pigeon, Duck, Truffles and Trumpets
Caramelized Guirra Ewe Sweetbreads with Truffle, Roasted Onion, Carrots, Chufa Milk steeped with Truffle
Vineyard Peach Snow
Fig Tree
Double Espresso
Petit Fours of Jasmine Marshmallow, Cherry Pate de Fruit, Golden Praline, Matcha White Chocolate, Cookie, Financier, Macaron
Still smiling after dinner at Quique Dacosta Restaurante in Denia, the former “El Poblet” at which a teenage Quique began his culinary career now a Michelin 3* Restaurant that defines “exceptional cuisine that is worth a special journey,” it was just thirteen hours later that a seat was taken at the new El Poblet in Valencia, itself a Michelin Star recipient as a retrospective look at some of the Chef’s classic dishes.
Opened in 2012, his eponymous restaurant at that time holding two stars and a Top-40 rating on the “World’s 50 Best” list, El Poblet was originally intended to offer guests a refined but laid back experience focused on Chef Dacosta’s cuisine without fully committing to a full-tasting, but with more Restaurants opened since to focus on casual plates as well as Tapas the idea has since evolved, the current “Menu Ciutat Vella” a sixteen course experience offered at a cost of €120.
In many ways a brilliant idea, the ability to carry on the legacy of formative plates while continuing to evolve each season at the flagship, guests entering El Poblet in 2017 will quickly be greeted by letters from the original restaurant before ascending stairs to a foyer of pictures and relics familiar from Denia, a projected film playing silent on one wall with a well-appointed private dining room set to the side of the staircase.
Featuring high ceilings, white linens and elegant plating, not exactly the sort of thing that says casual though the camouflaged floral pillar and jovial service certainly help to lighten the mood, it is almost immediately after seating that guests are presented with Food and Beverage menus plus a briny rice-cracker amuse with Mayonnaise described as a Kelp Forest.
Playing soft music overhead, diners trickling in over the course of the first hour to fill the space about 3/4 at lunch on a Monday, it was after confirming a lack of allergies or intolerances that the menu officially got underway, the €2.50 Bread Service well worth its cost as a hot loaf of Sourdough was served along with good Olive Oil before delving into “Stages of the Almond” featuring raw and toasted Nuts plus an Ice Cream Bon-Bon made from a distillation of the un-ripened green version.
Continuing to show a propensity for playing with textures, a theme frequently seen throughout dinner in Denia the night prior, course two featured crispy Almond ‘paper’ flavored like Turrón atop tender Clams perfumed by Cumin, the four-part follow-up not dissimilar to the second act at Quique Dacosta Restaurante as it offered flavors of Earth and Sea highlighted by Pea and Curry Ice Cream plus the Pod used as a sort of Taco-shell around Lemon Fish Ceviche.
Rounding out Canapés with another trio, the focus prominently on brine with Caviar atop creamy Mozzarella followed by dehydrated Watermelon doing a fairly credible riff on Tuna Belly and a black Tempura Fritter of liquefied Sea Urchin, course ‘one’ of the menu came almost thirty minutes after taking a seat, the Green Tomato Gazpacho expectedly sour but balanced by a creamy crowd, Meringue clusters and Prawns that were served raw and shockingly sweet.
Intentionally going back and forth between sea and land, three plump Oysters intense with Iodine beneath a creamy blanket of Liqueur, Roe and Lettuce served next, course three and four were two of Quique’s most famous plates, the Prawns from Denia seen one day prior in an even more elaborate presentation while the Rum & Coke Foie Gras ranks amongst the top five cold preparations of the dish experienced to date.
Featuring only line-caught Fish, four thin cuts of lean Tuna Belly lightly seared along the rim of warm White Asparagus Soup with light heat, it was here that the kitchen sent out an alternative form of All I Pebre, the flavors of Onions, Peppers and Garlic here lending themselves to a Swordfish Filet beneath a crispy black net.
Stating that “about 15%” of El Poblet’s dishes were created at the restaurant, the entirety of that group served close to the meal’s start, it was with two rich plates from Quique Dacosta Restaurante’s history that savories concluded, the Sweetbreads a very different presentation from the night before that paired the caramelized Thymus with Carrots and Onions while “Rice Ashes” was as much a visual experience as it was a taste to behold as earthy flavors mingled with aged Fowl on the palate.
Refreshing the mouth with Truffle-steeped Horchata, a pleasant blend of sweet and savory that also served to bridge diners from entrees to dessert, it was much like Dacosta’s “From the Muscat” that sweets started off with a study of Fruit in textures, the Vineyard Peach Snow appearing quite similar to insulation and intensely flavored like over-ripe Fruit while the “Fig Tree” follow-up dialed up the textures even further with sugary shards embedded in creamy Mousse.
Taking a Double Espresso with Mignardises, the price included in the menu and very necessary prior to a 3.5 hour drive up the coast to Barcelona, it was with Thanks from the Chef de Cuisine that seven tiny treats were enjoyed, the Chocolates particularly memorable as was the rounded Cake described as a Financier that rested in Apricot Preserves.
Founded in 1890 and now located in the cultural quarter of Valencia, not far from Mercat Central, Turrones Ramos proved a worthy stop on Monday, the service exceedingly pleasant and all of the products offered in a variety of sizes with samples also available.
Known by various names including Turrone, Turrón, Torrão or Nougat, the original version a soft and sticky composition of Almonds and Honey known as Turrón de Jijona rarely seen outside of Spain and most prominently consumed around Christmas, Turrones Ramos is one of the rare places still making all of its products on-site and still distributing from a single outlet, the original recipe still used and everything well priced in comparison to mass-produced versions.
Offering no less than ten types of Turron, everything from portable Biscuits to versions blended with Chocolate or Hazelnuts available, those looking for the best variety are encouraged to look into the small bars priced at just €2 each, the Alicante crispy between thin Wafers while the ‘hard’ version still fairly flexible and studded with toasted Nuts, though the double-packed Turron de Jijona still steals the show by being smooth, soft, sweet and sticky.
Unfortunately finding two alternative dining destinations closed, one for a week-long holiday and the other potentially a permanent situation based on signage, it was once again to Dulce to Leche that Breakfast was entrusted on Monday, the Ruzafa location proving far more busy than that on Carrer de Jesús but the products just as good, though the selection is substantially different.
Located on Calle Pintor Alberto Gisbert, a corner lot opening up to outdoor seating creating plenty of space for a queue that was continuously present from approximately 09h45 until past-noon based on observations from nearby parking, it was just prior to 10h00 that the line was entered and with quick service using a numbering system similar to that at the other location it was not long until guests found themselves at the counter, a process of elimination seeing a total of six items for just over €15 ordered.
Taking a seat to wait for savories to be warmed, a somewhat prolonged process due to a crowd that saw the sizable restaurant filled to capacity, it was with items eventually in hand that each golden pastry was sliced into with fork and knife, the Chicken and Pepper as well as Ham and Egg both delicious with quality ingredients and nice seasoning while the Spinach and Cheese was unfortunately flaccid and greasy.
Moving on to sweeter things, the selection at Dulce de Leche Jesus one day prior flawless across a half-dozen choices, it was somewhat expected that the Croissant sliced and piped with Caramel would be a bit limp but overall the flavor was quite good while the “Higos” of buttery Crumb Cake beneath Figs and a sweet glaze as well as the Plum Cake with Dulce de Leche Frosting and Sugar crystals were both exemplary with plenty of moisture and heft.
Located at Calle Ciscar 5 in Valencia, Horchateria Fabian is a family run operation known for their housemade Horchata and Fatrons plus Buñuelos at holidays, the space far less touristy than Santa Catalina with a better selection of items though far less accessible to those who do not speak Spanish.
No doubt a locals place, a 09h00 Monday arrival by car finding street parking available and only two patrons present, one a pre-teen Spaniard busy dipping Fartons into a jumbo Horchata and the other an American exchange student who thankfully proved capable of translating English to ownership, it was after finding out that Buñuelos are only offered at select times of the year that the decision was made to order three alternative items plus one Horchata, the total bill just under €10 and the Tiger Nut-based beverage far less cloyingly sweet than the one experienced a day earlier.
Told that the daily special Sandwich was crunchy Calamari with Aioli, admittedly tempting but passed up due to substantial dining plans for later, it was instead with a warm Empanada that breakfast got started, the interior stuffed with sautéed Spinach and White Cheese creamy and well seasoned with the all-butter pastry golden brown, crisp and flaky.
Checked upon more than once by staff, the presence of someone with a camera who spoke no Spanish clearly a curiosity, it was following the youngster’s lead that a fluffy Farton piped with Chocolate was dunked into the Cold Chufa and Sugar with great effect, the baton holding its shape even after soaking up its share of liquid while the charred Apple Cake was rustic in all the right ways with a creamy custard base and layers of fruit that were still snappy and only naturally sweetened.
Pumpkin from Bengali fermented in its own Juice, with King Crab
Red Prawn from Denia, cooked in Sea Water with Herbs and Shellfish Bisque
Dried Octopus / Torta of Ling Roe served as ‘cheese’ / Cumin’s Papadam / Roe of Mullet / Red Tuna Belly rested between Sugared Kombu and Mechoui / Onion in Grenade Vinegar from Elche, Raim de Pastor / Rice Liquor Quinine and Emulsion of Yuzu
Almond’s Nougat – Mustard Seed, Baby Prawns
2006 Château Suduiraut Sauternes
Monkfish Loin and Liver in Escabeche with Sea Fennel
From the Muscat, the Vine Leaf, it’s Grapes and the Mistelle
Stones of Orange Blossom Honey, Almonds and Rosemary
Double Espresso, Ice
Cinnamon Branch, Prunes, Petals of Roses, Gin Tonic of Apple
Widely considered one of the World’s true ‘destination’ restaurants, the sleepy seaside town of Denia largely known only for its beaches and bounty of fresh Seafood prior to the restaurant’s arrival, Quique Dacosta’s 2017 menu entitled “DNA: The Search” proved a perfect introduction to the Chef’s cooking on Sunday night, the last day of service before a week-long vacation seeing both Quique and his staff in joyous spirits as they presented an “understanding of the kitchen today, the search of a territory: our territory, my territory.”
Said by some to be progressive and precise while others prefer ‘emotive’ or immersive in the region by way of food, Quique Dacosta Restaurante’s history is an interesting one dating back to the late Eighties when a teenage Quique began working at the restaurant then called El Poblet, subsequent years seeing the self-taught man develop his skills before taking over a decade later and applying his name to the door in 2009, the accolades soon to follow with three stars from Michelin arriving in 2013 and maintained ever since.
Expectedly luring in far more guests since its recognition from the Red Guide, a place on many “World’s Best” lists and positive words from culinary tourists, the combination of these things allowing Chef Dacosta to open a new version of El Poblet in Valencia in addition to two more casual restaurants in the same city, it was just past 20h00 that the car was parked on a small street next to the restaurant before being greeted by a man named Didier in a small garden, the longtime Maitre D’ taking it upon himself to propose a guided tour of the rooftop garden and recently upgraded test kitchen before offering a seat on the patio where guests are invited to sip Cava and enjoy several snacks including a Soup of Smoked Chiles followed by Mussels in Garlic, Pepper and Onions and pickled Squash with freshly picked King Crab.
At this point considered an equal to the likes of Berasategui, the Roca Brothers and Aduriz, the legacy of El Bulli and modernism carried on to some degree in most of Spain’s best restaurants though Dacosta seems to be the most committed to maintaining his focus on terroir with every ingredient featured sourced from less than 100km away, it was after a trip through the kitchen that a seat was offered in the dining room dressed in white, flowers and sculpture, the keyholed cloche present on arrival soon removed to reveal two pristine Prawns just as a crystal chalice of Shellfish Bisque was delivered.
Known for his embrace of the land and sea around Dénia, everything from the mountains to the shoreline visible from a rooftop garden in which seeds gathered from elsewhere are grown alongside locally caught Octopus allowed to dry in the breeze, course two of the menu featured that very Octopus grilled and served alongside Mullet Roe and Tuna allowed to bask in the flavors of sweetened Seaweed, the highlight of the course a creamy Ling Roe opened up tableside to spread on Papadum with bold brininess that played point and counterpoint with pickled Onions and Raw Vegetables plus a beverage of light Citrus and aromatic Herbs.
Continuing to wow by way of diverse textures and bold flavors with thin sheets of Almond overlying tiny Shrimp it was with a complimentary pour of Sauternes that course four was presented, the pairing of Monkfish Loin and Liver painted with acid both luxurious and bracing at the same time while a follow-up entitled “The Cloud, the Cockles and the Razor Clams” was an ethereal breath of the Sea atop tender Shellfish and Salmon Roe.
Offering three Grissini with “The Cloud,” Chef Dacosta reportedly not a fan of Bread despite later choosing present it as a course focusing the diner’s attention on the intense sweetness of Corn that had been mashed and piped into a round of Brioche, fans of Crucifers (as well as Game of Thrones) will likely be delighted by a dish called Khaleesi featuring Kale, Broccoli, Quinoa and Fennel while all but the most steadfast vegetarian will be impressed by “The Mount of Olive Trees” focused on the flavors and textures of locally grown Fruit surrounding a fillet of Red Mullet.
Saving heavier proteins for the end of the meal, a plate of tender rice with Sweetbreads and a rich Demiglace given added intensity from Cauliflower crisps, Morels and a Black Truffle reportedly foraged from the nearby mountain, the meal’s main course was presented as a study of Duck, the Heart grilled and suspended above Offal packed Dim Sum while the Breast, Liver and Legs were presented to the left in a variety of grilled and fried preparations.
Taking the same approach to sweets as to savories, the focus on locally sourced ingredients and divergent textures yielding a delectable study of Grapes before concluding in a crispy Biscuit atop Semifreddo-like Honey with a light hint of Rosemary, it was alongside Coffee that several Petit Fours were enjoyed, the Apple-centered “Petals of Roses” a worthy signature, as were those on a rock from the garden and in one of the Chef’s cookbooks as a Thank You for making the journey to a restaurant that is truly extraordinary in its ability to showcase both its Chef and the region.
Caramelized Torrejas with Milk Ice Cream, Coffee Soup
Fig with Fresh Cheese, Idiazabal Cake
Double Espresso, Coffee Ice, Financier, Custard, Chocolate, Rum Horchata
Located in the small seaside town of Daimus and garnering one star in the last several Michelin Guides it was immediately following a substantial Paella lunch in Valencia that the GPS was pointed for Casa Manolo by Manuel Alonso, the original plan to taste a higher grade of Seafood and Rice quickly set aside after one look at the elegant dining room and €89 Tasting Menu.
Occupying its place along the beach since 1985, the all-day bar and outdoor seating area originally managed by Alonso’s parents before he and his brother took over the space and opened a more formal dining room in 2011, it was just moments before a 15h30 reservation that parking was found along a row of high-rises approximately two hundred meters from the restaurant, a reservation confirmed with broad smiles after entering the door guarded by a large statue of Bibendum.
Making way through the Bar area, the menu there favorably priced and full of seafood specialties befitting Casa Manolo’s embrace of the local terrain, it is after walking up two stairs that guests find themselves inside the starred restaurant overlooking miles of ocean, the menu expectedly focused on a fisherman’s bounty but certainly not for lack in terms of exotic ingredients and creative, global ideas.
Listed like many of the region’s tasting menus, a rollicking progression of small bites followed by composed plates with fast-paced service and thoughtful portion sizes intended to keep the guest consistently entertained and never overwhelmed by any single dish, it was immediately upon noticing that Alonso’s Crust Rice was part of the tasting that the decision was made to go all-in, wine deferred in favor of house-filtered water and the two-hour meal beginning quickly with a crispy amuse flavored like Tomatoes and Herbs with Dried Cod and briny Mayonnaise.
Moving next into the menu itself, a total of twenty-two courses plus two bonus plates added by Chef Alonso who proved to be a gracious and friendly host despite limited English, Casa Manolo takes a unique approach to presenting its classic dishes as a series of bites, the Tomato Foam with Prune and Toro eating as light as a cloud but quickly washed away by the assertive flavors of “Summer in a glass,” the Rice Crisp with Pepper and Pork Fat another luscious bite as was the local Salt Cod packed into a small Fritter with a dollop of creamy Sauce.
Taking reference from the Chef’s travels in the following small bites, both the miniature Greek Taco and clever Tikka Masala Brioche unexpected bites for the region while a toasted piece of Bread topped in cured Fish and Green Peppers was another highlight, the current season’s collection began with house-baked Bread flavored with Cheese and Onions before rolling into a chilly Oyster topped in Celery Ice Cream and Horseradish Foam, the follow-up of Cauliflower and Air Dried Octopus elegantly presented and made all the more delicious with a tableside squeeze of Prawn’s Head Stock.
Listing the following course as simply “Sea Urchin,” the actual composition a sweet and briny Custard with finely diced Cucumbers and Herbs that worked quite well in terms of taste and texture, those shying away from fish flavors would be well advised to avoid the Mackerel Tartare, though for those who enjoy such things the composition is one to behold with silky Fish mellowed by sweet Sherry beneath a slick of Yolk and Sea Foam.
Next offering a deconstructed Salad with marinated Fish beneath a vibrant Vegetable Mousse it was here that Alonso served what would prove to be the meal’s most impressive progression, the streaked plate of Grilled Octopus and Pork Jowl with Demiglace expectedly rich followed by a palate-cleansing bite of bitter Dim Sum before moving into a twirl of housemade Pasta blended with the tender duo of smoked Eel and Duck.
Drinking a glass of infused water to once again refresh the palate, follow-up plates of meaty Turbot and a sizable Shrimp simply boiled in Sea Water showcasing Casa Manolo’s ingredient quality in a manner that Quique Dacosta would just a few hours later, those seeking Chef Alonso’s best plate need look no further than the confit Egg served beneath Basil Noodles and slippery baby Eels, a bold kick of Garlic and shaved Cheese bringing disparate flavors together with no one ingredient overwhelming the others.
Happy to taste Chef’s Crust Rice, the traditional Valencian dish beneath a crispy cap nicely prepared with plenty of Saffron and slices of aged Ham, another menu highlight was the €5 supplement of Tripe, Morcilla and Sausage cooked as it was by his mother – definitely not a dish for those afraid of a little funk but otherwise worth making a special visit for as a full plate of slowly simmered meat is available on the a la carte menu for just €18.
Requesting substitution of one dessert, a decision made as much out of a love for French Toast as from a personal dislike of Cantaloupe, suffice it to say that Casa Manolo’s Caramelized Torrejas is as trip-worthy as the Eels, Tripe or nearby beach while the deconstructed Cheesecake was also quite good, two final surprises found when the restaurant presented its Horchata infused with Rum and “Iced Coffee” as a fresh shot served next to Ice Cubes made from frozen Espresso.
Paella Pepica with Shrimp, Mussels, Squid, Octopus and Cod
Apple Pudding Cake with Sherry and Raisins
Turron with Espresso Sauce, Whipped Cream and Raisin
Known as the birthplace of Paella, every local or tourist in the region seemingly with an opinion regarding which Restaurant serves the best pan of Rice in town, it seemed only appropriate that even as a solo diner the dish should be sought out during a brief stay in Valencia, the hotel’s concierge well-utilized in making a reservation nearly a month in advance for a sought after table on the outdoor patio of La Pepicia.
Favored by the likes of royals, writers and artists for both the location as well as the history, a sprawling space of more than 400 seats looking onto Playa Malvarrosa since 1898, La Pepica serves diners from 13h00 until 17h00 seven days a week with dinner service added on Fridays and Saturdays, parking near Paseo Neptuno limited thanks to beach access and nearby competition, though an underground garage about two-hundred meters inland is available for just under €3.50/hr.
Sprawling in its layout with servers buzzing about, patrons arriving from the beach frequently walk-ins and thus relegated to an indoor seat beneath sky-blue walls, old photographs and tile murals, those with the foresight to book in advance will typically approach La Pepica from the opposite side where doors are flanked by a bar adjacent the enormous open kitchen, more than a dozen cooks maneuvering pans of various sizes filled with no less than a dozen combinations of Saffron, Starch, Protein and Produce.
No doubt a tourist-friendly sort of place, at least a quarter of the diners plainly heard speaking English to bow-tied waiters who are fluent, it is after seating that guests are invited to peruse a sizable carte of Starters, Entrees and Desserts in addition to the restaurant’s signature, the €28.50 per person Tasting Menu a perfect choice with Bread, one Appetizer, one Dessert plus a pan of Rice typically meant for two easily accommodated for even single diners.
Said to have adapted much of its menu based on the likes and dislikes of famous guests of the past, the eponymous Paella of peeled Seafood originally created as an alternative to tradition in order to prevent the rice from becoming “dirty,” it was with a basket of toasted Bread paired to crushed Tomatoes and Garlic Aioli that the meal began, a follow-up of eight Croquettas filled with Bechamel and Iberico initially raising eyebrows as relates to portion sizes, though the crispy exterior and creamy insides quickly saw them made short work of as sounds of the tide rumbled in the distance.
Arriving shortly after the restaurant’s opening, the space subsequently filling to capacity over the course of perhaps 45-mintues, it was just past 13h35 that the first Paella emerged from the kitchen followed by a second, the third landing on a two top and nearly filling it to capacity with steam still rising and edges still sizzling, the first spoonful going from center to edge collecting Shrimp, Fish and Squid plus a generous bit of the crisp and salty Socarrat.
No doubt a lot of food, the minimum portion for two still offered as a matter of feasibility despite only being charged for one tasting, it was with good speed that nearly all of the tender rice was enjoyed with a focus on the edges and fresh chunks of Seafood, a few spoonfuls sent back in order to preserve stomach capacity for later, though the two-sided Dessert card immediately rendered that idea moot, the more expensive Turron Sundae with Espresso Sauce, Whipped Cream and Raisin texturally wonderful and counted as part of the tasting with a €4.95 wedge of Apple Bread Pudding added on proving equally compelling beneath a warm sauce of Butter and reduced Sherry.
Heavily decorated in antique tiles and located near Mercat Central in Valencia’s cultural corridor there is little doubt that Horchateria de Santa Catalina has been committed to its craft for quite some time, and although Horchata in Spain is quite different from that found in the United States and Mexico the Chufa (or Tiger Nut) based beverage should undoubtedly be on the to-taste list of travelers visiting the city where many claim it was created.
No question a bit touristy in the current era, centuries of history having seen the small shop change hands several times while recipes reportedly remain true to those originally created at the shop’s inception, Horchateria de Santa Catalina opens at 08h15 daily and remains open until at least 21h30, the sizeable seating area and quick service rare to see a wait while staff is pleasant and multi-lingual.
In many ways a “do one thing and do it well” concept, though sipping Chocolate and Coffee are available in addition to the sweet and creamy drink served cold in tall glasses for €2.80, those entering the Horchateria are quickly invited to take a seat after first perusing a case of leavened Pastries focused on elongated Fartons, both the shape and their characteristic wispiness intended for dunking and costs ranging €0.90 for one dusted with Confectioner’s Sugar to €1.40 for those that are filled.
Fancied by locals and tourists alike as one of the best bakeries and breakfast nooks in all of Valencia it was on the first Sunday of a trip to Eastern Spain that a stop was made at Dulce de Leche on Carrer de Jesús, both the scene and the cuisine living up to its praise with service that, despite language barriers, goes above and beyond what is expected to assure each guest a great experience.
The more sizable of two locations, another visited just 27-hours later in the city’s Ruzafa area far more crowded and loud, guests visiting Dulce de Leche Jesus at any time of day will likely find the café busy and after waiting in a small queue the largest issue is one of deciding what *not* to order from a collection of more than fifty choices, made to order coffee the only things delaying guests from collecting their goods and eating immediately with numbered cards handed out along with an invitation to take a seat as items are plated.
Populated with about 90% locals, many of them clearly regulars based on the manner in which they were greeted by staff, it was on the far side of a wooden picnic table that a seat was taken followed by perhaps five minutes wait as a smooth Americano was prepared, the radio overhead American and largely ignorable with the setting shabby-chic and relaxing, a total of six items soon to arrive including a flaky Argentinean “Bay Biscuit” provided complimentary as the young lady at the register had difficulty describing what was essentially laminated dough crusted in Sugar with a savory linger that seemed to be from creamy White Cheese as opposed to Buttermilk.
Offering savories in addition to the sweets, the former not really of much interest despite the fact that all of it looked quite nice, Breakfast progressed with two small Alfajores that outperformed those Stateside thanks to both the quality of the Caramel and unsweetened Coconut used for balance, the freshly-made Mil Hojas also quite successful with the Pastry layers still flaky and crisp with the thick Dulce de Leche creating no sog.
Almost overwhelming in terms of Cake choices, the American practice of only offering a select-few by the slice completely the opposite as staff was seen cutting large wedges of more than a dozen choices for patrons as early as 08h15, those looking for a truly remarkable Carrot Cake are encouraged to give Dulce de Leche a chance as the traditional sweetness of Pineapple is replaced by bold spicing which allows both Walnuts and grated Vegetables to shine beneath light icing, both the Dark Chocolate with Apple and Marble Plum Cake with Pears eating like “Ooey Gooey” Butter Cake with rich Streusel topping atop a smooth Fruit base.
in the form of a smile as a sort of wink towards the experience diners are promised within, it was just prior to 13h00 that a short queue stood in front of 163 Calle Villarroel, the doors soon to unlock and guests quickly guided through a narrow bar as well as the kitchen en route to the expansive dining room complete with outdoor garden.
