Part of the ever-sprawling section of Rainbow Boulevard South of the 215 it was in search of dessert that a stop was made at Asia Creamery, its location tucked away in a Strip Mall between yet another Poke Bowl Restaurant and an enormous Family Fun Center likely beneficial in terms of foot traffic but not exactly helping the locally owned and operated Scoop Shop in terms of visibility for those not actively searching for it.
Officially opened in the waning days of 2016 and fancied by what appears to be a largely Pilipino population drawn in by Hard and Soft Serve flavors including the likes of Ube, Jack Fruit, Coconut and others, it was with a group of three folks purchasing gift cards for friends that the menu was perused while a young staff member stood ready in wait ready to offer both samples and recommendations.
Stating that “everything in the case” is made on-site in reference to over a dozen brightly colored bins, the Jack Fruit a bit icy but four other flavors all smooth including bitter-sweet Coffee Chip, it was without much hesitation that one Ice Cream Sandwich and a cup of Halo-Halo was selected, a total of $10 paid including tax and tip.
Given the choice of Oreo or Chocolate Wafer to contain the Sandwich, a difference that is seemingly just a matter of branding, it was between layers of the former that a ball of “Creamy Queso” was gently squashed, the flavor not so different from the sort found in the Frosting atop Red Velvet Cake and overall quite pleasant without being too sweet.
Working on the Sandwich as part two of the order was concocted behind the counter, an Ice shaver actively whirring instead of the typical blender, it was largely as a result of this instrument that Asia Creamery’s Halo-Halo came across smoother and more enjoyable than others compromised by the heterogeneity of uncracked Ice Cubes, a scoop of Ube Ice Cream with strips of Coconut mixed in after sipping the over-stuffed cup down and each bite thereafter a little different and particularly good when including candied Cherries or Flan.
FOUR STARS: Not quite as pure a product as Rainbow Boulevard’s two Gelato Shops there is nonetheless a lot to like about Asia Creamery both in terms of its novel housemade flavors and pleasant customer service.
AVOID: Jack Fruit was icy and the small taste of Birthday Cake tasted like nothing but Sugar.
TIP: Also offering flavors like Avocado plus popular Ube Soft Serve those interested in Ice Cream Cakes will be glad to know several pre-made versions are available daily in addition to custom versions via pre-order – 10% off with Social Media Check-in.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Family owned and operated since its inception, Dev Bhagat and his brother arriving in Las Vegas like so many others by way of California, it was with prior experience in the Restaurant industry that the duo opened Angara India Spice Grill in hopes of sharing the food of their homeland and doing what they love while additionally filling a market void when comparing the West side of town to East.
First noticed after a disappointing visit to Cinnaholic, but occupying the shopping center at 4165 South Grand Canyon Drive since late 2015, it was based on positive words from trusted palates that the Lunch Buffet at Angara was explored on Saturday, a well-culled selection of traditional Indian dishes all showing well and service on par with other like concepts.
Cleanly designed and smaller than the likes of Everest or Delhi, the main dining area lined with tables and booths arranged beneath colorful murals and textured wallpaper, it was minutes past 11:00am that Suite 105 was found empty save for two others, the space quick to fill afterward and also apparently quite popular for takeout based on five orders over the course of an hour including at least one sent out via Bite Squad.
Playing regionally appropriate music at low volume, the Bollywood-style Videos always a source of amusement for those unfamiliar, it was after requesting Butter Naan over Garlic that the line-up of dishes was explored, a total of three section presenting just fifteen dishes along with an equal number of Vegetables, Chutneys, Dips and Condiments.
Not wasting time in getting started, plates in two sizes plus bowls available to avoid mixing, it was just as warm Bread arrived that a plate containing Spinach Saag plus Warm Okra with Potatoes and Onions was obtained, the former boldly-spiced but mellowed by Cream while the later found its primary constituent cooked snappy, the blend of spices pleasant and all aspects of the dish superior to American-South versions that often come across bland or soggy.
Enjoying Papadam with housemade Chutney as a sort of palate cleanser between plates, the Tamarind a bit overpowering but complex and chunky Mango quite refreshing, it was marveling at the first of three crispy Samosas that Water was refilled without having to ask, a matter of good timing as plate two featured moist Tandoori Chicken and mild Tikka Masala alongside Goat Curry almost entirely devoid of Bones but full of supple Meat plus robust spicing heavy in Coriander, Cloves and Scotch Bonnet Chiles.
Alternating between Meat and Vegetarian options, the fact that Rice dishes make up 20% of Angara’s Buffet no doubt part of its low cost of just $11.99 per diner, it was shrugging off clearly frozen Peas that the Pulao came across pleasantly herbal alongside Vegetable Korma thick with Paneer and Nuts, each bite as creamy and comforting as it was delicious while the cooked Cabbage and Chickpeas heavily perfumed by Ginger were unremarkable but not necessarily bad.
Wrapping up savories with Chicken Curry, the flavor profile virtually identical to Angara India Spice Grill’s Goat version, it was after more Papadam and Samosa that two Desserts were enjoyed, the Kheer a bit thinner than versions served elsewhere while the Gulab Jamun were soft and spongy in their floral and sweet bath.
THREE STARS: Too limited to rank among Las Vegas’ best Indian Buffets Angara India Spice Grill nonetheless presents their spread well and at a fair price, the limitations in quantity largely offset by quality but the lack of more than four Meat choices – three of them Chicken and one virtually identical to the Goat dish – probably not enough to bring many guests back.
Mignardises – Dark Chocolate, Raspberry-Cassis / White Chocolate Key Lime
Back from a brief hiatus it was on Saturday night that four friends sat down to dinner at a refreshed Michael Mina Restaurant, the kitchen toqued by Chef Nick Sharpe opened up to a brighter dining room where guests are invited to experience a menu that additionally comes across lighter with the focus more than ever shifted to Seafood.
Still located just off the Bellagio Conservatory Gardens, the current Springtime theme as free and elegant as ever, it is immediately upon entry that guests will find themselves greeted at a podium by familiar faces, several longtime servers and managers overlooking both a fully refurbished Bar and Lounge as well as the main seating area.
Adding a private dining room where Dale Chihuly’s gallery once stood, a space suitable for twenty complete with customizable music and lighting, it was after a brief tour including an area with fresh Seafood on Ice that guests sat in the center of a room full of crisp linen and chandeliers, light music overhead appropriate to the environment and virtually unnoticed aside from its ability to hush the din of other diners.
Offering a bevy of seasonal Appetizers, Entrees and Desserts in addition to two tasting menus, pre-theater Prix-Fixe and an all-new “Market List,” it was with deference to Chef Sharpe and a visiting Gary LaMorte that a Champagne toast kicked off what would turn out to be nearly four hours of great Food and conversation, the bubbles quickly followed by an all-new Bread service replacing Rolls with warm Laffa and Butter with a trio of Kalamata Olive Tapenade, Housemade Hummus and Red Onion Labneh that are replenished as necessary throughout the evening.
Maintaining only a few of Chef Mina’s Signatures, the shift to several tableside presentations and large-format whole Fish preparations necessitating the change, it was starting out light that a crisp Meringue was shattered with a spoon spilling contents of King Crab amidst fresh-shucked Peas and Mint, the tiniest of Turnips offsetting sweetness and offering a pleasant lead-in to Mina’s iconic Caviar Parfait that has recently been freshened up through the addition of fragrant Onion Syrup.
Coursed out slowly but never noticeably lagging, the slowest diner’s pace dictating the flow, it was with one member of the group enjoying Wine pairings that course three saw five raw bites served on a wave of glass, the Ocean Trout with citrusy Salsa particularly noteworthy though so-too was a snappy slice of Amberjack dressed to impress with Ginger, Snap Peas and Holy Basil.
Expectedly offering a variety of Shellfish, the Charcoal grilled Platter standing out thanks to both the quality of its constituents and the added umami of Red Miso Butter that contributed particularly well to Scallops, it was in another Japanese inspiration that course five built around Tempura battered Asparagus with additional grilled segments and luxurious Caviar Cream added tableside.
Updated but never forgetting a classic, both the legendary Whole Foie Gras and Michael’s Rootbeer Float available to those giving the Restaurant at least 24-hours notice, it was with a glass off 2014 Sauternes poured that longtime General Manager Jorge Pagani carved the Liver before placing segments atop Mango Chutney, Greek Pastry and Pistachios, each bite pure decadence and probably best shared by tables of six while the same is also safe to say regarding the Ginger-perfumed Kona Kampachi flown in daily from Hawaii and dressed with fermented Black Beans alongside Rice and Mushrooms.
Turning Pastries over to the skilled Monica Delgadillo, a half-pour of late-harvest Austrian Wine just sweet enough to pair, it was as the group awaited a faultless Milk Chocolate Soufflé piped with Creme Anglaise and large enough to share that attentions focused on a bowl titled “Strawberry Granita,” the designation doing what lies beneath hardly enough justice as the Panna Cotta eats more like Greek Yogurt given vibrancy by fresh Strawberries and what can best be described as crumbled Financiers.
FIVE STARS: Rounding out the evening with two types of Chocolate as the crowd finally began to thin, not one unsatisfied face in a room that at times appeared completely full, it can only be said that Michael Mina and his team have continued to raise the bar even as his empire grows, this recent meal easily the best yet and arguably placing Michael Mina Restaurant amongst the five best fine dining destinations in Sin City.
RECOMMENDED: Whole Foie Gras, English Pea and Mint Pavlova, Michael Mina’s Caviar Parfait, Ginger & Scallion Broiled Whole Kona Kampachi, Strawberry Granita.
AVOID: N/A.
TIP: The Market List Menu is prone to daily change and Whole Foie Gras requires advanced notice.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Still listed as “Coming Soon November 2017” on their Website, weekly @tagging of every “influencer” featured in Las Vegas Weekly’s 2017 article apparently felt to be a better use of resources than creating an informative internet presence, it was finally on May 1st that Gama Bakery & Cakes opened at the corner of West Sahara and South Decatur, a visit on Cinco de Mayo finding the expansive store adjacent Playa Papagayos devoid of patrons but chock-a-block full of Cakes, Rolls and Pan Dulce.
On the record as inhabiting Suite 27 of the complex at 4750 West Sahara Avenue, one of Las Vegas’ largest Mexican Supermarkets located across the parking lot and several new dining concepts springing up in an area that appears to be slowly gentrifying, it is immediately on entry that guests will be struck by bright pink walls and a large footprint encompassing seven cases plus an area reserved for Balloons and Snacks, the lone server present youthful, pleasant and happy to answer questions.
Offering a diversity of products comparable to or larger than other Panaderia around town, a current 50% off Pan Dulce and $2 Cake Slices lowering prices to levels less than the likes of even La Bonita, it was after being informed that Tres Leches had not yet been made for the day that a collection of nine items was selected for just $5.24, a total that even when doubled represents a significant bargain.
Additionally serving Sandwiches, Tamales and Menudo at market-competitive prices, the list of options displayed on boards hanging above the spotless kitchen and bakery, it was with all but one item boxed that a seat was taken at a table in the store’s upper tier, a woman later entering with Milk and Eggs suggesting her co-worker turn on some music that was festive and welcoming without being too loud.
A full service Bakery with Custom Cake and Catering capabilities, the situation not dissimilar to many spaces of its kind, it was beginning with small forkfuls of Carrot Cake that tasting of Gama’s goods got underway, the base heterogeneous with Raisins, Nuts and Vegetables suspended in an aromatic base that proved an adequate foil to slightly oversweetened Frosting.
Not listing the names of their Pastries, another practice seen across a wide range of ethnic Bakeries from coast-to-coast, it was largely focusing on familiar items that bites were enjoyed from Gama’s fluffy Jelly-Roll topped in Coconut Flakes before moving onto the seemingly similar Besos, the Cookie sometimes also referred to as Yo-Yo unfortunately dry and inedible with an internal texture reminiscent of Saltines.
Transitioning back to Cake with a sprinkled wedge of Cortadillo, the texture here too parched and grainy despite a thin layer of Frosting similar in color to Gama’s walls, it was fully expecting the Concha to present similarly that the Bun was torn in half only to reveal unparalleled softness and all the springiness of Challah, a truly remarkable accomplishment and better than any found in Mexico City, let alone stateside.
Not particularly impressed by an Apple Turnover, the obvious use of Pie Filling shifting the focus from crispy layers to artificial sweetness, it was in a Bun even softer and fluffier than the Concha that Gama Bakery & Cakes’s best item was found soaked by Custard and Icing, the flattened spin on a Wedding Cookie also quite good as it melted like Butter on the tongue while a Guava Empanada was par for the course and neither better nor worse that what one will find at the Grocery Store.
THREE STARS: Still finding their footing in a part of town that would certainly benefit from a quality Bakery, the lengthy delays in opening and questionable promotional decisions notwithstanding, it will be interesting to re-visit Gama Bakery & Cakes once they have time to see what sells and fix their recipes to account for Las Vegas’ dry air and volume, though a sooner return for Tamales when the Tres Leches is actually ready before noon is certainly not out of the question.
RECOMMENDED: Cema de Leche y Crema, Concha, Wedding Cookie.
AVOID: Besos, Apple Turnover, Cortadillo.
TIP: 05:30a-07:00p Weekdays, 07:00a-07:00p Saturday, 07:00a-04:00p Sunday. No Geotag, No Facebook, but @gamabakerycakes on Instagram.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
French Toast – Fresh Strawberry, Lemon Granola, Honey Whipped Butter
While Las Vegas certainly has its fair share of Brunch venues, a number that only seems to increase each day, the spots truly doing good Food remains low, particularly in the Southwest where a growing population has recently latched on to Neighbors as an answer to Egg Works, Mr. Mama’s, Babycakes and all the usual Chains.
Officially open as of February and immediately making itself ‘known’ via Instagram, a giveaway requesting guests “tag their Brunch Squad” or some such nonsense drawing onlookers to a collection of Breakfast and Lunch items available from 7am to 3pm daily, it was along with a friend that Saturday around 10:30am found the space packed, one screaming child near the doors dragging the average age down from a population largely comprised of Millennials starring at their Smartphones and Soccer Moms.
Tucked away off Fort Apache and clean in design, potted plants dividing the largely communal seating area from a small foyer where guests are greeted with a menu, Neighbors encourages diners to step up and order from the counter once decisions are made, the prices of presumably housemade Pastries not disclosed save for a small laminated sheet at the register where money is exchanged for a stand featuring the party’s name and number.
Busy but not particularly loud, the vibe essentially the same as Panera with inoffensive music overhead, it was shortly after exchanging $25 including tax and tip that a party of two found seats at a long wooden table, a trio of Cookies staff had offered to ‘warm up’ arriving shortly and merely room temperature with the Snickerdoodle pleasant and buttery inside a crispy rim while both Peanut Butter and Chocolate Chip were unremarkable save for a price tag of $2.50 each, just a nickel less than all three would have cost for better quality at Sweet Addiction up the road.
Passing on Coffee, the fact that Neighbors uses Beans locally roasted by Vesta a feather in their cap, it was after perhaps ten minutes with Water self-filled and even utensils not delivered that a $12 plate of French Toast arrived featuring Granola, sliced Strawberries without their tops removed and a round of unmelted “Honey Whipped Butter,” the meal’s most memorable moment occurring when a young man ate the whole thing assuming it was “Fruit,” the humor likely lost on him both as a result of the shock and subsequently being forced to eat Bread that is poorly permeated and doughy without much Syrup and almost no flavor on its own.
TWO STARS: Featuring 2018 paint-by-the-#gram design and plates that look better than they taste Neighbors seems to be exactly what it sets out to be and nothing more discerning palates need to waste time or calories on, the same quality and better service offered at Panera or Kneaders for less and a far superior Breakfast available at CRAFTkitchen, Served or Kitchen Table in Henderson or even Squeeze-In, Mimosa’s Gourmet, Babystacks and Bite just a few minutes away.
RECOMMENDED: Snickerdoodle Cookie.
AVOID: French Toast.
TIP: Taking into account the ‘quick casual’ counter service and lack of staff interaction thereafter, the self-service refills and an empty bin of forks when attempting to gather utensils in particular, one should definitely consider tipping after the fact rather than tacking on 15-20% as suggested when paying.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
It has been jokingly stated that Chefs in Las Vegas are like gypsies in terms of their migration and with the brand recently sold by Brian Malarkey to Hakkasan Group and Geno Bernardo gone it was under the direction of Chef Marty Red Deleon Lopez that dinner was enjoyed at Herringbone on Friday, the Vegas Golden Knights live on Television both inside and on the outdoor patio where a DJ spun tunes.
Formerly of 35 Steaks + Martinis followed by a brief stint at Andre’s Bistro & Bar, Chef Marty’s tenure at Aria’s second floor home of “Land Meats Sea” beginning earlier this year but only now starting to make the menu his own, it was arriving just prior to 6:45pm that two diners were greeted by familiar faces including longtime Managers and a server named Austin, seats taken outside at the lady’s preference as Sin City’s brief Spring was agreeable without the need for misters or heat lamps.
No stranger to Herringbone or neighboring Bardot Brasserie and Jean Georges Steakhouse, the trio undoubtedly comprising Las Vegas highest density of great Food in such a small area, it was with servers immediately whisking away menus that one “It’s Still Hot in Mexico” was delivered based on memory, a small Amuse of Jicama and Watermelon quick to follow before presenting a grand platter of Seafood highlighted by BeauSoleil Oysters, Jumbo Shrimp and wrist-thick Crab Legs plus six housemade Sauces.
A frequent destination for big sporting events, the Big Ten Championship and Superbowl most recently serving a magnificent spread but this visit more focused on an upcoming Menu change and several Chef Marty originals, it was starting light that Herringbone’s current Tomato & Avocado Salad was updated by vibrant Antirrhinum and Thai Basil dressed in White Wine Vinegar, the light spice and minty notes immediately refreshing the palate prior to a collection of new and old, the Buffalo Octopus thicker with char than prior and all better for it while seared Scallops with Mushrooms were safe yet nicely prepared, though certainly not as noteworthy as “Lobster Larb” topped with what Chef would only refer to as “crack,” it’s crisp and buttery taste a perfect juxtaposition to fresh Shellfish, Grapefruit and Peppers.
Admitting a mandate from corporate to focus on “rustic Farm-to-Table” without getting to “Chef-y,” a task anyone familiar with Marty and Michael’s plating at Hard Rock will realize ignores a significant talent, it was nonetheless utilizing Herringbone’s great sourcing ability that course four featured two line-caught Fish flown in that day, the Swordfish braised in Mediterranean flavors meaty, moist and great for those seeking something healthy while deboned and fried Branzino was easily the night’s most noteworthy plate given its light and crispy texture that ate well on its own but even better when shredded into Jungle Curry.
Offering more menu previews by way of “his & hers” Steaks, the Coffee-rubbed Prime Strip definitely a Beer-drinker’s favorite thanks to robust smokiness and Black Garlic Sauce, it was in the opinion of both guests that the thicker Filet cooked Medium-Rare was a better choice for those not just looking to ‘get full,’ particularly with sides such as Las Vegas’ best Brussels Sprouts and creamy Potatoes with two types of Cheese, Lardons and Scallions competing for stomach space.
Unfortunately not yet updating the Dessert Menu, an “if it’s not broke don’t fix it” strategy apparently in place as everything remains good despite being tasted several times prior, it was with two Cakes and a Tart that dinner reached its conclusion, the Cheesecake remaining a great choice for those seeking something light though the Salted Caramel Tart is the only one that would be missed if/when the collection finally gets a makeover…and hopefully brings back the Carrot Cake or Bread Pudding that seem far better fitting a “Farm to Table” concept.
FOUR AND A HALF STARS: Offering some of the freshest Fish and best Produce in Las Vegas the challenge facing Herringbone as it moves forward with Hakkasan will be one of differentiating itself from the pack, something that “farm to table” cooking seems unlikely to do in 2018 but the sort of thing Chef Marty has proven capable of in the past and continues to do with daily specials that taste even better than they look.
RECOMMENDED: Seafood Tower, Buffalo Octopus, Lobster Larb, Crispy Fish, Brussels Sprouts, Death by Potatoes, Salted Chocolate Caramel Tart.
AVOID: The New York Strip gets lost amidst Peppers, Garlic and Coffee.
TIP: New Menu coming 5/21…also, never park above the third floor of Aria during a Knights game unless you’re planning on hanging around the Strip until 90-minutes after the final horn.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Berry & Apple Porridge – Overnight Oats in Almond Milk, Chia Seeds, Blueberry Compote, Coconut Flakes, Gala Apple, Caramel
Apple Cinnamon Muffin stuffed with Purple Potato Butter
While casual readers of endoedibles probably think it’s just 24/7 gluttony a simple look at dates will tell of someone who limits their dining out quite strategically, both personal and professional knowledge involved in a decision that has maintained over 100 lost pounds since 2003, thus it should come as no surprise that a concept such as Ramir Bolanos DeCastro’s Purple Potato elicits great interest both as a health care advocate and someone who also enjoys eating really good Food.
Previously discussed mid-April, a hidden-in-plain-sight location at 10090 South Eastern Avenue discovered as a result of Chef DeCastro’s collaborative dinner at CRAFTkitchen, it was having recently taken over coordination of lunches at work that catering was requested from the healthy eating concept on Friday, the days of limp Salads from Rachel’s Kitchen or BJ’s Pizza now a thing of the past as both diners and small businesses stand to benefit from a focus on supporting local.
Not a short distance to travel from a storefront on the opposite side of the Valley, a requested delivery time of 11:30am not met due to traffic with the driver finally signed-off just minutes to noon, it was in a mixture of excitement and occasional raised eyebrows that Staff entered the conference room to find a collection of Salads, Sandwiches and “stuff with Seeds,” the healthy eaters immediately diving into glistening cubes of Tuna while those more prone to Burger King for Breakfast turned their attention to Chicken on Multigrain Bread with creamy mouthfeel created not by Mayonnaise but by housemade Tarragon Dressing.
Typifying the new era of “Quick Casual” and healthy, an emerging demographic of diners who desire the choice to eat out while adhering to their own dietary preferences, it was by request that Catering from Purple Potato allowed the utmost degree of customization, Proteins held separate from the Salads used to craft several ‘bowls,’ the Umami and Ali both entirely different yet equally delicious with the former beautifully balancing Cloud Ear Fungus against sweet Squash amidst Kale and Quinoa while the later placed fresh Baby Spinach amidst crunchy Jicama and Sunflower Seeds plus tender Tomatoes, Broccoli and Beets.
A far more fibrous and nutrient-dense meal than many have come to expect at an office frequently inundated with Cookies, Bagels and Donuts, the Roasted Chicken Breast and Beef made tangy with Sesame plus Soy both well suited to either Salad while spicy Chickpea Fritters were particularly enjoyable tossed amidst the Spinach whose zesty Dressing helped add a little moisture, it was again with skepticism that many eyeballed cups of “why are they blue?” Oats before taking a bite and marveling at the creamy base and natural sweetness, though it seems all were in agreement that Ramir’s Apple Cinnamon Muffin with a core of Purple Potato Butter was the real winner in terms of Dessert, the fact that they were Vegan probably not even noticed by most but truly remarkable when taking into account the fact that they were nearly as good as the best-in-Las-Vegas Brownie tasted at Purple Potato last time.
N/A: While the driver’s late arrival posed an issue for some, the 11:30am start time part of the reason some businesses are excluded from many Reps’ preferred caterers, it was with high praise from several Staff members that Purple Potato was welcomed to the Office, one going so far as to call it the best lunch he’d seen at any office in his thirty year career and even those who have deemed Café Rio or Earl of Sandwich ‘good’ in the past admitting that Purple Potato is a significant upgrade.
RECOMMENDED: Ali Salad, Umami Salad, Baked Falafel, Ahi Tuna, Korean Beef Bulgogi, Apple Cinnamon Muffin stuffed with Purple Potato Butter.
AVOID: Pastries rotate daily, so some items may not always be available.
TIP: 10:30a to 8:30p with online ordering via Yelp, a custom App or E-mail coordinated Catering all available in addition to phone orders and delivery.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Choosing not to partake in two recent occasions when Big Pharma brought Pink Box Doughnuts to the office, an ‘everything in moderation’ approach adhered to even when tempted by the best Doughnuts in town, it was in early celebration of Cinco de Mayo that three dozen Doughnuts were picked up Friday morning on Lake Mead Boulevard, Roberto Armanino’s team already hard at work with pre-orders and a string of walk-in customers.
Open 24/7 and busier on this day than most, two new Doughnuts on the menu plus special requests for Star Wars “May the 4th” novelties keeping the kitchen even busier than clerks, it was with a weighty stack driven down Durango that the car was perfumed with Cinnamon, several rounds still warm when the boxes were unpacked just twenty minutes later.
Having already discussed Pink Box extensively across a dozen visits to various locations dating back to their opening, the continuous improvements in both product quality and variety not to be overlooked in a city where tear-down economics often supplant a continuous pursuit of greatness, it was once again that tasting began with Pink Box’s laminated riff on Dominique Ansel’s Cronut topped in Blueberry Glaze, the textures and flavors both light as ever while a Cake Doughnut with Blueberry in the base benefitted greatly by the fact that it was still warm and fluffy without a hint of grease.
Equally fortunate to find a warm Apple Fritter in the box, as yet unset Glaze making for a somewhat messy experience that was nevertheless delicious, it was sharing or setting aside halves of additional Donuts that Birthday Cake and a Maple Bacon Bar were tasted for the first time in a while, the Churro Bar revived from the “secret menu” on request impressing all who had the opportunity to taste it by way of the combination of Cinnamon-Sugar and thick Dulce de Leche.
Further explaining the hefty fragrance of Cinnamon from earlier with a jumbo-size Cinnamon Roll plus one Buttermilk Bar topped in Streusel, the debate as to whether Pink Box has finally surpassed ACE for best Buttermilk Bar in Sin City something that would require side-by-side tasting, it was in follow-up that both Fat Elvis and PB&J showed once again that Pink Box’s Brioche base is well-suited to maintaining its texture no matter what it is piped with, the all-new Cinco Special striped like Mexico’s flag another fine example featuring Reddi-Wip-light Coconut Cream.
Wrapping with the Emojis, a rare case where Instagram may have actually benefitted something edible, it should be obvious to most that the Pink Velvet Unicorn is little more than a pretty spin on one of Pink Box Doughnuts’ best sellers while the dueling piles of Black and Pink are both great for those looking for something over-the-top, the Chocolate version featuring airy Mousse beneath a Dark Chocolate Shell while the Strawberry version reminisces of Dunkin’s classic with a more natural flavor, though considering its sweetness this one is probably best shared.
FIVE STARS: In a city with 40+ million annual visitors and formerly-Michelin Starred Restaurants that haven’t adjusted their tasting menu in ten years the impetus to change something that ‘works’ sometimes seems lacking, but at Pink Box Doughnuts the hits just keep coming with two all-new options atop an already fun and delicious lineup.
RECOMMENDED: Buttermilk Bar, Cro-Dough, Blueberry Cake, Churro Doughnut, Strawberry Pink Poomoji Doughnut, Peanut Butter and Jelly.
AVOID: N/A.
TIP: Keep an eye on @pinkboxdoughnuts or @pinkboxdoughnutslv for Specials.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
To call Chris and Michael Palmeri ‘hustlers’ is unfortunately failed by modern utilization of the term, but to say the brothers have hustle could not be more accurate as they debuted Paula’s Supper Club on Tuesday May 1st to not only show off another aspect of their business but to honor their mother and several classic Las Vegas dishes.
The first installment of what Chef Christopher hopes to be a bi-monthly series at The El Cortez in Downtown Las Vegas, the Casino’s old-school vibe befitting an idea that targets locals at a price-point of just $40 before tax and tip, it was for a 6pm first seating that guests were led to the ballroom adjacent Naked City’s 4-month old Pizza Parlor, a Rat Pack soundtrack serenading guests given their choice of booths or tables.
Using outside help to serve the event, several members of Vegas’ ever-puzzling ‘food media’ present and presumably comped (or at least known) based on staff’s interaction with them versus others, it was with menus in place alongside silverware which was never swapped out that diners were seated, the complimentary soft-drinks not including Iced Tea which was inexplicably sold out across the property.
Offered as a four-course prix-fixe served on large trays by guys and gals who seemed to be hamming-up the old-school annunciation, a request to have Chefs send out whatever they felt best from each round somehow misinterpreted as wanting one of the waiters to make selections, it was as two men prepared a respectable Caesar Salad tableside that their female colleague splashed Soup both in and outside a bowl of Seafood, the process of obtaining separate bowls apparently on par with solving advanced calculus as it took quite a while thus leading to luke-warm Soup that was still good, though a bit more oily than versions tasted previously.
Served at a slow and intentional pace, the meal’s two-hour length thankfully filled by great conversation, it was approximately twenty minutes on the heels of Soup and Salad that plates of stuffed Banana Peppers and Burrata arrived, the latter not particularly ‘old-Vegas’ thanks to Truffle Oil and difficult to eat without requesting more of Michael’s housemade Bread while the Peppers were bright, tangy and not too hot as a result of the smooth Cream Sauce.
Oddly electing to order Porchetta for both diners, the fact that every previous plate had been shared apparently escaping notice considering repeated requests for plates, it was as a nice gesture that the server volunteered to add one complimentary dish to the meal, a plate of butterflied Shrimp stuffed with Crab and Breadcrumbs pleasant even though the Pasta was cool and a bit sweet while the Porchetta was supple and rich despite a lack of crackling Skin.
Definitely taking a step back in time for Dessert, Cherries Jubilee and Bananas Foster brought from the kitchen rather than flamed tableside a la Hugo’s Cellar, it was with thanks from Chris for coming out that the check was paid as Dean and Frank crooned on, a rare Tuesday out not as good as previous meals from the Naked City crew but still offering good value for the dollar and attesting to a desire to not get caught in a rut or ever stop trying to branch out and offer something new to the city of Las Vegas.
THREE STARS: Marred by service issues and Food that occasionally seemed to deviate from the theme it seems as though Paula’s Supper Club would have benefitted from a dress rehearsal, the fact that this was the first of what is intended to be a series giving one higher hopes for next time.
To say that South Rainbow Boulevard has bloomed around Peridot Sweets would be an understatement, the last five and a half years yielding several chains as well as local favorites Rosallie and Gelatology, but following a recent move to confines with a bigger kitchen Tiffany Jones and her team look to continue just as they have while also growing the brand in a retail center that sees increasing foot traffic on a daily basis.
Now a part of the community since Summer 2012 and best known for elegant celebration Cakes based on Chef Jones’ scratch-made recipes, her skills also on display in Pastries previously available at Hearthstone as well as Portofino, it was a few days after re-opening only steps from the former storefront that Jones was found on-site with her team, the trials and costs involved in the move largely in the rearview mirror and the new space just as cute as ever.
Neither pretending nor intending to be a full-service Café, Jones’ current pursuit of State Senate District 9 and family responsibilities undoubtedly creating a busy schedule as Wedding Season looms near, guests visiting the new shop will quickly notice a cooler-case packed with Cupcakes and Cannoli beneath a row of Cookies and Muffins while the group of Bakers works diligently in plain view to the left of entry.
Still building back up to their previous line-up, a total of perhaps two-dozen items currently offered on-site comprised at least 50% of Cupcakes, it was with $20 including tip exchanged that eight items were carefully boxed and bagged to enjoy back at the office, the 8a-6p opening hours from Monday through Saturday definitely appealing for those nearby with a sweet tooth or in need of workday catering.
Presenting everything at prices and portions manageable for most, the Cupcakes $3.50 each or $12 for four while ‘mini-Cookies’ seem a bit steep at $1.50 for what amounts to a mouthful, it was beginning with a jammy-Thumbprint that one found a good amount of Butter and largely natural sweetness, the follow-up of Oatmeal Cranberry chewy and dense while Peanut Butter with visible grains of Salt and Chocolate Chip laced with Cinnamon both offered a crisp rim and soft-center despite their small surface area.
Moving next to a Muffin, Banana Nut seemingly the best choice out of three including Blueberry and Gluten Free Chocolate Chip, those who love the Fruit should immediately prioritize a trip to Peridot Sweets to try either this or Tiffany’s famous Banana Caramel Cupcake, the former a bit more fluffy under its crystallized Sugar cap while the latter may just be Sin City’s best Cupcake, bar-none, at least until Chef Jones begins offering her Rum Syrup-soaked Banana Brigade Cake in an individual size.
Rounding out the order with two additional Cupcake flavors, the second Banana-Caramel selection impressing its recipient who claims to ‘not like’ sweets, suffice it to say that German Chocolate Cake would have benefitted from more Pecan-Coconut Frosting and less Whipped Cream while the Strawberry Jam version was messy but worth it thanks to the combination of concentrated Fruit and another chance to enjoy Peridot’s world-class Cream Cheese Frosting.
FOUR STARS: As yet short on selections following the move there is no doubt Peridot Sweets remains Las Vegas best Cupcake purveyor even as the boom has come to a close, and with new hours plus a bigger kitchen one hopes Tiffany and her team will be even more successful than prior going forward.
AVOID: German Chocolate would be better off without the white Cream and $1.50 per mini-Cookie will likely dissuade many based on size, regardless of ingredient quality.
TIP: 8a-6p Monday through Saturday at 6365 S Rainbow Blvd Suite Ste 101. @peridotsweets on Social to see some of the elegant Cake creations.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor
Est Sandwich with Prosciutto, Brie, Tomato, Lettuce, Pesto
Almond Croissant
Nutella Almond Croissant
Raspberry Almond Croissant
Chocolate Hazelnut Éclair
Cinnamon Roll with Cream Cheese Frosting
Chocolate-dipped Madeline
Chocolate Cake
Lemon Raspberry Tart
Chocolate Brownie
Mocha Opera Cake
Chocolate Mousse Cake
Almond Meringue
Chocolate-dipped Coconut Macaroon
Walnut Pie
Raspberry Chocolate Ganache Tart
Nutella Almond Pie
With Jonathan Pluvinet still occupied expanding his brand in Winter Garden it is under the direction of former Aria and Jean-Philippe Baker Christophe that Rosallie has continued to improve in 2018, several additions to the décor and a whole bunch of new Pastries showing that the man responsible for Jean Georges Steakhouse’s outstanding Brioche shares both the skills and sensibilities of his fellow countryman.
Quickly approaching anniversary number three and still doing good business despite finally-resolved construction and a location almost entirely devoid of foot traffic, the former 7-Eleven even more attractive than ever with hand-painted signage plus natural elements atop dividers, it was just moments before the Café’s 7am opening that Christophe and staff were found putting the finishing touches on Tuesday’s lineup, two pre-ordered boxes already packed and ready to go with a Sandwich quickly assembled and the whole interaction completed in less than five minutes en route to work.
A heavier load than one might expect, the amount of Butter folded into Rosallie’s Viennoiseries and Tart Shells never in question but magnified by several items made of Chocolate, it was immediately upon arrival to an office only eight minutes away that the degustation began with an upgraded Est tucked into a Whole Wheat Roll; the Brie, Vegetables and housemade Pesto only improved by good quality Prosciutto given a minute in the oven to both toast the bread and melt the creamy Cheese.
Not a job for late-risers, the baking beginning several hours before sunrise and yielding some three-dozen items daily, it was seeking out those still-warm that quickly identified both an Almond and Nutella Croissant, the former still a personal pick for the best found stateside thanks to its hand-ground filling, flaky exterior and overall structure while the later would probably make a Parisian cringe, though after a bite it is likely they too would deem it delicious.
Enjoying the goods over nearly eight hours, fresh Raspberries and housemade Jam highlighting several, it was also prior to fully cooling that Christophe’s new Raspberry Almond Croissant added a whole new dimension to Jonathan’s base without compromising the texture one bit, the sweetness remaining natural while a follow-up $3.90 Cinnamon Roll immediately created mental conflict as to whether this or CRAFTkitchen was better thanks both its wispy interior and largely-unsweetened Cream Cheese Frosting that allowed tanginess a welcome opportunity to shine.
Bringing back half-dipped Madelines and adding a Macaroon, the Dark Chocolate’s quality immediately evident and personally felt to be better around densely packed Coconut, it seems as though Rosallie’s Choux has received an upgrade recently as an Éclair marrying Nutella’s ingredients broke cleanly despite being entirely covered in Chocolate, the dish best suited for a fork and knife as too is the triple- Chocolate Brownie thanks to mirrored Ganache and a dense, fudgy base.
Finding good use for leftover Egg Whites in soft-centered Meringue, a perfume of Almonds released by each bite as crumbles fall to the floor, those seeking additional ‘lighter’ options would do well to order one of Rosallie’s Lemon Raspberry Tarts or a slice of Apple Pie, though if actual ‘weight’ is more a concern one would be hard pressed to find Cake with less heft than the layers Jon and Christophe have stacked below and above airy Chocolate Mousse.
Nearly as fond of the Walnut Pie as Le French Café’s Almond Croissant for similar reasons of authenticity, the Nutella Almond Pie likewise mirroring thoughts regarding their Croissant layered in America’s favorite Italian Spread, it was saving the three heaviest items for last that the tasting came to a conclusion, both the thick Chocolate Mousse Cake and buttery Tart filled with Ganache seeing their richness mellowed by Fruit while the layered Opera tasted a lot like Tiramisu, but with a lot more variance in texture.
FIVE STARS: In many ways the unlikely inspiration for at least three additional French Bakeries sprouted since, the irony of Jean-Philippe’s closure not wasted on those paying attention as only Thomas Keller’s Bouchon remains as any sort of competition on-Strip, Rosallie continues to shine even as Jonathan looks towards further expansion and with Christophe’s passion and pedigree it seems like even more great things are likely soon to come.
Pickles – Radish with Fermented Sesame Paste, Kimchee Cucumber, Lotus Root with Fermented Garlic and Lemon, Fermented Mango with Lemon Honey and Dried Shrimp
Oysters – Lap Cheong-Shiitake Vinaigrette, Wasabi with Celery Root Espuma, Grilled with Cold Butter
Rapidly approaching its one year anniversary, the tremendous opening hype justified for many while others have come away only modestly impressed, it was with yet another reason to celebrate that four friends sat down to dinner at Sparrow + Wolf on Friday, a tasting menu from Chef Brian Howard showing signs of growth and maturity to go along with the Restaurant’s unwavering confidence.
Overlooked for any national “Best New Restaurant” list and no longer the “hot new spot” in a city where that title changes almost weekly, Friday nonetheless found Sparrow + Wolf packed just prior to a 7:30pm reservation, the smell of a warm hearth welcoming guests at forty feet with additional greetings offered first from a hostess at the podium and subsequently by GM John Anthony.
Tightly packed and excessively loud, an overhead soundtrack ranging from mid-tempo thumps to The Doors added to a cacophony created by too much Alcohol and guests shouting to be heard above the din, it was mere moments after seating that a young woman approached to collect Menus as she’d been informed of the corner table’s choice to invest $125 each in a family-style Carte Blanche, Beverages coming in two rounds with the first happily seeing a return of last June’s German Slurpee alongside others with clever names included the fruity yet complex Ichigo Time and easy-drinking Violet Beauregarde.
Happy to adapt a menu to the group’s preferences, allergies or intolerances, a majority of the 150 minutes anchored by currently offered plates with additional daily Chef’s inspirations, it was together with an assortment of Housemade Pickles and Fermentations that course one was presented by Chef Howard, the King Salmon Poke immediately attesting to high quality product accented by acid and heat, this theme recurring throughout the evening but never redundant in the way other “fusion-y” places tend to be.
Matching the glistening cubes of Fish plus its crispy Rice vehicle to a second Tartare of Beets and sour Apples, the vegetarian affair easily one of Sin City’s best ‘Beet Salads’ as a result of both texture and taste, it was prior to three styles of Oysters that a true treat arrived in the form of Japanese Milk Fish flown in that day from Tsukiji Market, the flatly pounded specimen almost melting on the tongue beneath a light brushing of Pepper plus the sweet and savory interplay of Grapes and Caviar.
Graciously accepting Chef’s suggestion to raise the lights a bit, an oddly placed Blue bulb nevertheless casting a glow across diners and tablescape, it was fast on the heels of $5 Sourdough which has grown in size that the first of two hot courses arrived, the bowl of roasted Maitake Mushrooms mingling with Hummus and Sunchokes a bit earthy for some though absolutely beautiful in the eyes of others while BBQ Salsify was a crowd-pleaser thanks to its surprising sweetness plus tenderness akin to slow-roasted Pork lent a savory finish by Sesame and light charring.
Growing heavier henceforth, Howard’s Market Price Foie Gras du Jour presenting a nicely seared Steak atop French Toast with boozy Pineapples and Cream, it was an honor to be one of the first to taste Chef’s soon-to-debut “Beef and Cheddar” straight from the kitchen, its caramelized Marrow providing an unctuous backdrop to traditional Parsley Salad and fragrant Cheese Sauce with Wagyu Beef Tendon both top and bottom.
Here taking on two new Cocktails, Easy Peasey a bit too minty for most while Molly Ringwald is an easy Summer sipper, it was with five additional items that savories came to an end, the meaty Grouper straight out of Florida as good a piece of Fish as one will find anywhere on The Strip but with better Potatoes and saucing while the Short Rib will happily see guests wiping up its sticky remnants with “White Bread” Brioche, the same act of scarpetta likely to occur with Garlic Bread accompanying the crispy-topped Lasagna loaded with Bechamel and Lamb Bolognese.
Not forgetting skewered Sprouts or a Japanese Sweet Potato that redefines “loaded” by way of tons of umami given stability by housemade Crème Fraiche, the latter a personal pick for the menu’s best item, it was with only nine of the (jokingly) promised fifteen Desserts that Dinner came to a conclusion, the smaller bites highlighted by “Moon Rocks” that pitch Lychee as Peanut Butter’s Jam beneath a veil of Cardamom while Howard’s Lemon ‘Soufflé’ Cake eats lighter than most actual Soufflés in Las Vegas with a full-frontal assault of Citrus that will appease anyone who disregards Chocolate in favor of a fresh Fruit finish.
At this point well-sated but not ‘stuffed,’ Sparrow + Wolf’s lack of online menu prices no different than the likes of Sage or Aureole for similar portions and ingredients, it was in homage to its Spring Mountain address that the Kitchen finished with Asian accented Strawberries and Cream plus smooth Panna Cotta that saw an unlikely pairing of Black Sesame with Rhubarb, though neither were as memorable as Howard’s “Honey Toast” that tops caramelized Bread Pudding seasonally, this time with Cara Cara Oranges and warming Thai Basil Ice Cream that leads nicely into dense Chocolate Truffles with their own peasant Peppercorn sting.
FOUR AND A HALF STARS: Almost completely reinventing the menu twice-over in the past ten months, the nearly-deafening volume a lone complaint as shouting to hear ones date or having to ask a server thrice what is being served can be grating, there is no doubt that Brian Howard has found a style all his own on Spring Mountain Road and for the sake of Las Vegas’ local dining scene one must hope that the place remains packed and (ideally less) loud for many more years.
RECOMMENDED: German Slurpee, Violet Beauregarde, Beet and Green Apple Tartare, Wood Roasted Maitake Mushrooms, Sambal Chile & Brioche Crusted Grouper, Japanese Sweet Potato, Wood Fired Lasagna, Lemon Soufflé Cake, Honey Toast.
AVOID: Easey Peasey, Oysters with Wasabi and Celery Root. Also be aware that Milk Fish Crudo, Pickles and several Desserts were Tasting-Menu specials and Beef n’ Cheddar Bone Marrow has not yet hit the menu as of 5/1/18.
TIP: Currently taking reservations by RESY from 5p-11p Wednesday through Monday. Closed Tuesdays. Tasting menu available for $65 or $125 along with daily specials.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Now serving Las Vegas for over a year and still going strong, former Estiatorio Milos-man Nikos Georgousis and Jerry Goumroian of The Great Greek essentially rescuing the plaza formerly home to Elements in early 2017, it was for lunch on Friday that Meraki Greek Grill got a second look, their ‘to-go’ option not nearly on par with dining in and a lack of desire to cater unfortunate as the nearby ‘competition’ simply is not as good.
Last visited in August, sitting down amidst hues of blue and a mural of Zeus accompanied by exemplary service, it was 24-hours in advance that a call to Meraki found staff unwilling to take an order for the next day, a promise that “if someone comes right at 11:00am we’ll have the order ready by 11:15am” all they could offer and thus what was selected with items actually packed and ready to go three minutes early.
Driven just ten minutes to the final destination, a meal for two discussing new horizons in GLP-1 Receptor Agonists the setting, it was with items unwrapped that a small clamshell of Eggplant Puree once again proved slightly smoky and nicely textured, the store-bought Pita still a disappointment considering Amena Bakery & Deli, Parsley Mediterranean and Kabob Oasis all produce their own on-site daily.
Eating while listening, a ‘side’ of Falafel presenting four crispy Chickpea Fritters loaded with Onions and Garlic, it was with these plus accompanying Greens dipped into a small cup of Tzatziki that the meal marched onward, a side of French Fries good but already a touch soggy thanks to the closed Styrofoam clamshell while Meraki’s Lamb Burger was overcooked and as crumbly as the Feta atop it with the Bun unfortunately affected similar to the Fries and thus exceedingly messy.
Going through several more napkins than the one provided in an attempt to ‘enjoy’ the Burger, though after three bites a fork and knife became essential, it was finally with a small plastic pod of Greek Yogurt topped in Honey and Walnuts that a conclusion was reached – not only that Greek Yogurt is indeed delicious, but that Glucagon-like peptide-1 remains a great target while Meraki is best for dining in.
TWO AND A HALF STARS: While supporting locals is an admirable goal it only works insofar as locals are willing to be supported and as Meraki is apparently doing well enough to take a pass on pre-orders it looks like future visits will have to be dine-in while the office continues to cater from inferior Mediterranean Restaurants.
It was not until early 2017 that La Bonita Supermarket became a known entity to someone who’d previously split time between Smith’s and Albertson’s for all their shopping needs, yet from the very first time 6-for-$1 Cucumbers and 33-cent-per-pound Tomatoes were discovered there was no turning back, a reliance on over 35lbs of Vegetables as part of a weekly eating plan not only generating great savings, but the store’s music and clientele also making for a far more enjoyable experience than its competitors.
Not sold on anti-GMO hype or the benefits of “Organic” outside of perhaps taste and color, a scientific background capable off interpreting cited ‘studies’ unswayed by little more than anecdote, it was not until a colleague brought a box of Pastries from the store that the left half of the Market roused interest, an early visit on Friday morning finding La Bonita’s Panaderia humming with several products lining racks and cases not only fresh but still warm.
As much a full-service Cafeteria as it is a Grocer, everything from Tacos and Tortillas to Aguas Frescas and Ceviche made fresh daily, it was after a brief perusal of several counters surrounding a central seating area that selections were made from shelves and chillers, a woman of intermediate English fluency describing several unlabeled items ranging from forty to sixty cents that were added up and carefully placed in a box for less than the price of one Concha at Manhattan’s ATLA.
Spending less than fourteen dollars on fourteen items including two wedges of Cake plus a $1.99 cup full of creamy Rice Pudding topped in Cinnamon and Raisins, a portion most certainly advised for sharing, it was starting out with a soft Pastry horn filled with Vanilla Cream that La Bonita’s base was found to be similar to that of other Mexican Bakeries in town though the ‘dryness’ that discourages many Caucasians is not quite as prominent thanks to what seems to be a bit more Butter or Evaporated Milk.
Progressing in no particular order, halves off most items set aside for later or discarded, it was prior to enjoying a still-warm Concha that was as good or better than many found in Mexico City that a lengthy Pastry stick filled with Guava Jam was snapped in two, a brisk break seeing plenty of buttery flakes fall to the floor while flavors were expectedly sweet but far from cloying.
Offering at least a dozen shapes and sizes of Sugar Cookies, the Tricolor a bit less granular and more enjoyable than that with Sprinkles, it was with a nippled item similar to a Concha known as “Lima” that La Bonita’s best un-filled Roll was found, the Egg-washed top creating a fluffier core and taste less reliant on Sugar.
At this point turning to items tucked away in a separate case in front of the Bakery, assistance from staff required to gain access, pricing and descriptions, suffice it to say that any additional effort is justified by not only a soft Egg Bread topped in Cream Cheese but also a baked Roll of Cinnamon and Coconut, though neither are quite as exceptional as Corn Pudding that sets up like Flan studded with sweet Kernels and a top that is toasted soft and tan.
Not particularly wowed by a “Jelly Roll” that sees most of the Artificial Strawberry filling absorbed by sugared Bread, the yeasted Donut split and filled with Vanilla Pudding a better choice for those seeking something super sweet, it is also unfortunate that La Bonita’s Carrot Cake seems to be nothing but Cinnamon, Nutmeg and Cloves in a White Cake Base without much Fruit or Vegetables while the Tres Leches fares better in the form of sopping wet Angelfood, though it is still a far cry from the best in town.
THREE AND A HALF STARS: Taken as a whole La Bonita is an unquestionable contender for Las Vegas’ most enjoyable shopping experience while the Bakery is just hit n’ miss, though low prices and excellent customer service make even large orders a fairly low risk/high reward undertaking.
RECOMMENDED: Pudín de Maíz, Lima, Bolillo con Queso Crema, Rollo con Coco, Guava Banderilla, Concha, Arroz con Leche y Pasas de Canela.
AVOID: Torta de Zanahoria, Nino Enbulto.
TIP: 6a-11p daily at 4120 South Rainbow Boulevard.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Dog – Cruzan Light Rum, Pineapple Juice, Coconut Water, Malibu Rum
Ox – Absolut Acaiberry, Kai Lemongrass Soju, Blueberries
Horse – Patron Silver, Grand Marnier, Five Spice-Pomegranate Syrup, Fresh Lime Juice
Sheep – Cruzan Light Rum, Malibu Pineapple, Mint
Spicy Tuna on Crispy Rice
Kalbi Tacos with Kimchi
Duck Salad with Mandarin Orange, Candied Pecans and Plum Vinaigrette
Potstickers with Ginger Ponzu
Beef and Broccoli with FU Sauce
Fried Salmon with Bok Choy and Thai Basil
Walnut Shrimp with Lemon Aioli
Stir Fry Udon Noodles with Mushrooms, Shrimp and Scallops
Double Espresso on Ice
Deep Fried Oreos, Banana Spring Rolls, Vanilla Ice Cream, Lemon Mochi, Coconut Mochi, Strawberry Mochi
With the recent acquisition of The Hard Rock Hotel & Casino by Sir Richard Branson it seems a property already undergoing great change will quickly get a major facelift, everything from the gaming floor to pools, clubs and Restaurants said to be in consideration with FU Asian Kitchen likely to be lost in the shuffle and thus providing fans as well as those who’ve never been an impetus to go soon.
Owned and operated by Hard Rock, but in reality the domain of Chef Ming See Woo who has been at the property since 2012, FU represents the latest chapter in a career that dates back to 1976 when Woo and her husband opened Mayflower Chinese on Paradise Road, a brief retirement proving unfulfilling and her home at the Casino also on Paradise continuing to outperform expectations even now in 2018.
Last visited almost exactly two years prior, an ever-youthful appearing Ming See still working in the kitchen most days and the space largely unchanged, it was alongside one first-timer that a rounded booth was taken just prior to 5:30pm on Saturday, a pre-show surge in traffic briefly filling seats to about 50% around six but the Restaurant otherwise offering peace and quiet throughout the two and a half hour meal.
Located just past the main entrance of The Hard Rock Hotel & Casino, MB Steak and Oyster Bar both opened between visits along with a Magic Mike show that has contributed some Happy-Hour Tapas to the Menu, it was after perusing a list of Cocktails based on signs of the Chinese Zodiac that two were selected to start, the current year’s Dog smooth and creamy which proved well-suited to both Spicy Tuna Tartare on pan-seared Rice as well as Tacos placing marinated Beef atop fiery Kimchee.
Allowing Chef Woo to dictate the course of the evening, a choice to adhere to the current menu rather than several unique specials offered last time likely a result of the unexpected rush, it was prior to more Appetizers that a sizable Salad topped with Duck and Oranges arrived, the flavor profile sweet yet pleasant while Potstickers served in follow-up outpaced those from Send Noodles as well as Jasmine by a substantial margin despite their similar or lower cost.
Checked on frequently by servers, a second round of Drinks highlighted by the Fruit-forward Horse while an Ox hit hard with Vodka and Soju, it was here that the menu turned toward sharable Entrees including tender Sirloin on a bed of Broccoli with rich FU Sauce, the Fried Salmon at its side an unexpected surprise that managed to wow by way of crispy Skin and Flesh that appeared only lightly kissed by heat at the center.
Somewhat glad to have declined Rice as far more than necessary would have been used to soak up vibrant Thai Basil Sauce, the veteran move a saving of stomach capacity for two additional plates, it was once again that FU’s Walnut Shrimp stood out by way of citrusy Mayonnaise that plays well of candied Nuts and light Tempura while stir-fried Udon delighted by being springy and slick with the umami-rich mix of Shrimp, Scallops, Peppers, Snap Peas, Soy and Mushrooms.
Using less hotel music than memory suggests, the dimmed environs thus perfect for lingering over Coffee or Drinks, it was alongside the Mojito-inspired “Sheep” that Espresso from Illy arrived, Woo’s impressive Bread Pudding 86ed as it does not have a long enough shelf-life for the Restaurant’s volume and unfortunately replaced by lackluster Mochi with Paraffin-eque shells served on a platter next to Banana Spring Rolls and Oreo Cookies that have been Tempura battered and Fried.
THREE AND A HALF STARS: A step back from two-years prior, the rumored closure of this and other Hard Rock Hotel & Casino venues to make way for Virgin’s big plans likely at least partially responsible, there nonetheless remain plenty of good reasons to visit FU soon, not the least of which being Chef Ming See herself…though who knows, maybe she’ll end up somewhere else on Paradise Road or at one of the property’s new Restaurants as she still appears healthy and happy behind the stove.
RECOMMENDED: Dog, Horse, Spicy Tuna on Crispy Rice, Pot Stickers, Fried Salmon, Walnut Shrimp.
AVOID: Desserts, and the Ox Cocktail unless you’ve got a good tolerance for bitterness.
TIP: 11:30a-10:00p Sunday through Thursday and till 11:00p on Weekends.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
While many “epicures,” “gourmands” and “foodies” may raise eyebrows at the fact that there are globe-trotting diners who do not regularly go out of their way for Sushi the fact remains, and with that in mind it was not until four years after an excellent meal at Yonaka Modern Japanese that the name Ramir Bolanos DeCastro once again came to mind, a collaboration with Jaret Blinn at CRAFTkitchen making at least one person aware of his Purple Potato concept down in Henderson.
Never actually gone from the local food scene, a rebranding of Yonaka to its current “Yonaka by Chef Ramir” Omakase format following several successful years serving both locals and tourists, Purple Potato sees DeCastro taking on the ever-growing idea of healthy fast-service cuisine, the original actually spawned inside of Yonaka but migrated to 10090 South Eastern Avenue in September 2017.
Located on a stretch of road that has developed tremendously in the shadow of St. Rose Dominican Hospital, a number of locally owned Restaurants fighting for dollars with the chains, guests entering Purple Potato will immediately be welcomed by a friendly staff, polished surfaces and plenty of white, the overall idea one of customization with Bowls, Sandwiches, Salads and Porridge each listed alongside their cost and approximate calorie count.
Priced similar to Panera and other ‘quick casual’ dining choices, a point not to be overlooked considering the farm-fresh Produce, items accounting for dietary restrictions and labor-intense nature of in-house baking, it was after a brief chat with Ramir about the concept and how he hopes to make a difference in America’s expanding waistline that five items were selected, the focus moreso on taste for this visit than any specific macros or ‘diet.’
Able to watch each item as it is prepared behind the counter, a lack of weighing or measuring admittedly making calorie counts questionable when adding the element of human error across various staff members, it was beginning with a warm bowl of Porridge that Purple Potato proved to be very forward thinking, the pairing of warm Oats to several ‘superfoods’ creating a compelling variance in textures that range from crunchy to creamy with items such as Purple Potato Butter, Chia Compote and Maple-tossed Sunflower Seeds all made in-house just like the toppings at Grød in Copenhagen.
Leaving the signature Bowls and Salads to a later visit, the opportunity to go ‘all-vegan’ a welcome challenge after two disappointing attempts elsewhere earlier in the month, it was on outsourced Organic Sprouted Multigrain Bread that crispy Chickpea Fritters were smashed beneath Hummus, fresh Vegetables and lemony Vinaigrette, the Pickled Beets unfortunately a bit overwhelming thought the rest of the Sandwich was not only delicious but also fresh and light.
Seeing patrons come and go, several obviously regulars as they were greeted by name prior to requesting ‘the usual,’ it was with three of DeCastro’s housemade Pastries that lunch reached its conclusion, each Vegan and priced around two dollars with the chewy Ginger Snap and Streusel-topped Muffin both good but Purple Potato’s Chocolate Brownie that Ramir admits follows his preference for being “undercooked” truly remarkable as it one-ups Jean Georges liquid-centered Cake in terms of richness and heft with Chocolate that seems just as high quality for about 1/6 the price.
FOUR STARS: High effort and high quality despite pricing competitive with national brands it is only some skepticism about Purple Potato’s purported Calorie Counts and the fact that some dishes seem unnecessarily complicated that hold them back, the ability to customize based on personal preference certainly remedying the later but at the same time creating a menu that may prove confusing to the sort of diner accustomed to “Quick Casual” convenience.
AVOID: Pickled Beets unfortunately taste straight-from-the-can and threaten to overwhelm everything they touch and Pastries rotate daily, so some items may not always be available.
TIP: 10:30a to 8:30p with online ordering via Yelp, a custom App or E-mail coordinated Catering all available in addition to phone orders and delivery.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Home to a rapidly expanding population with some 40,000,000+ yearly visitors it stands to reason that hundreds of millions of folks have tasted Carl’s Donuts since 1966, yet it was not until early April that the supplier of untold numbers of Coffee Shops and Convenience Stores finally re-entered the retail arena with an expansive store on East Sunset.
Last available direct-to-consumer over two decades prior, various middle-men including everything from Casinos to spots like Grouchy John’s offering Carl Sanders’ Pastries in the intervening years, it is reportedly the granddaughter of Carl and wife Lynn who opted for the new concept focused on the “nostalgia of a classic Donut” that is neither trendy nor “over-the-top,” though everything from silver helium balloons to a “Donut wall” indicates Carl’s intention to target the Instagram crowd.
Officially addressed 3170 East Sunset Road as opposed to Carl’s Corporate offices at 6350 Sunset Corporate Drive, already an apparent issue as clerks report the Retail Shop receiving daily calls from would-be patrons unable locate them, it is tucked away near Wayne Newton’s Casa de Shenandoah that guests will find two cases of Treats plus several-hundred square feet of tables and empty space, the likelihood of either ever being filled seemingly optimistic considering the lack of foot traffic in the complex as well as longtime favorite Sunrise Coffee within shouting distance.
Living up to Sander’s promise of not trying to compete with the likes of Pink Box or Donut Bar in terms of novelty, the bulk of Carl’s Donuts simple Yeast Rings and Bars shiny with Glaze, it was with greetings from three youngsters that decisions were made amongst various well-priced products, a total of seven for just $11.84 more expensive than Krispy Kreme or Winchell’s but better than one will do at most locally owned Shops in Las Vegas or elsewhere.
Declining staff suggestions for a $4 Stumptown Cold Brew or Donut Wall “Selfie,” the weighty cardboard box instead taken elsewhere to taste, it was starting out with Homer Simpson’s favorite that Carl’s revealed its base to be a spongy mix with texture not dissimilar to what one might get at a Grocery Store, the Strawberry Glaze not as thick or Frosting-like as Dunkin while their Maple Longjohn fared similarly though a bit less sweet than what seems to be industry-standard in an era where Bacon is frequently added to such things.
Moving on to a Blueberry Muffin, its flavorless Berries and granulated Sugar topping an immediate turn-off when better can even be made at home via Betty Crocker, those seeking a good Fritter would better off pointing their GPS in any direction as Carl’s comes across greasy and dense with no perceivable Fruit, the list of better options including but not limited to CRAFTkitchen and Friendly in Henderson or ACE, Coco and Pink Box to the West.
Disappointed to this point, even modest expectations underwhelmed, it was finally by way of a flaky laminated spiral wrapped around White Chocolate Chips and Raspberry Jam that Carl’s finally provoked a smile even though the “Fruit” was anything but natural, the Double Chocolate Cake quickly returning to square one by being both dry and slightly bitter while a Brookie tucked amidst more classic Brownies proved far better by adding melted Peanut Butter Chips to an item that doesn’t exactly ‘fit’ Carl’s promise of nostalgia despite being an improvement in terms of satisfaction.
TWO STARS: Neither ‘artisan’ nor crafted to the small-er batch standards of other mom n’ pop Donut Shops around town it seems odd that Carl’s has opted to turn retail so long after other local brands have established themselves, and while the Donuts may be fine at a Casino Coffee Shop or Gas Station there is little reason for connoisseurs to visit…even the “nostalgia” aspect questionable given the modern décor compared to true classics like Ronald’s, Friendly, Sunshine or Real.
RECOMMENDED: Brookie with Peanut Butter Chips, Raspberry and White Chocolate Spiral.
AVOID: Blueberry Muffin, Apple Fritter, Chocolate Cake Donut with Chocolate Glaze.
TIP: 6a-2p daily.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
74% Cocoa from The Dominican Republic Dark Chocolate Pie, Candied Bergamot, Chocolate Tuile, Bergamot Shavings
Mignardises – Madelines, Chocolate Chip Cookie, Green Tea Fingerprint Cookie, Lychee Gumdrop, White Chocolate Croquant, Sable Cookie, Blueberry Clafoutis, Rice Pudding, Crème Caramel, Chocolate Mousse, Jasmine Panna Cotta, Raspberry Cheesecake, Caramel Apple Cream Puff, Salted Chocolate Caramel Tart, Mango Tart, Strawberries and Cream Tart, Apple Sorbet, Coffee Ice Cream, Vanilla Ice Cream
Earl Grey Sorbet, Black Pepper Cream
Pistachio and Raspberry Dragees
Promising Chef Julien Asseo that a return to Restaurant Guy Savoy would take place as soon as Duck was back on the menu it was immediately when Spring began that plans were made, a table for two in the Augustus Tower at Caesars’ Palace once again delivering the sort of experience meant to take diners away from the world outside for a few hours of style and sophistication.
Last visited six months prior, the bill of fare 75% overhauled in the interim with Savoy’s signatures now presented a la carte and Asseo’s interpretation of Modern French Cuisine offered by way of a $385 Prestige Tasting Menu, it was with warm greetings from General Manager Alain Alpe that guests were led to tables looking out onto Las Vegas Boulevard and Paris’ Eiffel Tower, the same team of servers in place and as professional yet personable as ever.
Always a model in making elegance seem effortless, the clean lines and pops of color paired to light notes of music and hushed tones, it was shortly after declining a Champagne toast that Menus were presented, the obvious choice a carte-blanche experience including several Prestige dishes plus the Duck and a few additional surprises.
Not a meal to be rushed, though several tables for the 5:30pm seating opted for just two courses en route to the Coliseum for Jerry Seinfeld, it was at a leisurely pace that others were treated to timeless bites of Foie Gras and Beef Tartare on Brioche before the meal officially began with Canapés, the earthy Celery Root cool and crisp while Tempura Bean Curd and a Mushroom stuffed with its own Duxelles doubled down on palate warming umami.
Unfolding over the course of three hours, several tableside presentations and Sauces allowing guests an opportunity to witness the amount of work that goes into making a world-class Restaurant tick, it was with a curl of Butter from Brittany and fragrant Olive Oil that a Bread Cart of ten choices made its first visit, the Loaves partially changed from prior and highlighted by Pain de Campagne, Olive-riddled Sourdough and Sweet Bread that eats akin to a Parker House Roll.
Working with the season and a list of Meats and Produce that escape the book-keepers overseeing most Las Vegas Restaurants, the presence of a Krug Room and $555 Forbes 5-Star Menu telling of Savoy’s legacy and typical clientele, it was in progression from light to heavy that the Prestige Menu began with a briny little Oyster chopped and topped with Seaweed Ice, the follow-up of Dungeness Crab and Cucumber beneath a sizable quenelle of Caviar quickly setting a high bar for everything else to follow as flavors both mild and intense were married by the mixture of Sherry Vinaigrette and Chive Oil.
Next using Cold Steam to perfume tender Tentacles, a dish seen prior slightly updated and just as attention grabbing as ever, the night’s Fish course soon arrived in the form of Turbot served atop roast Baby Vegetables and finished tableside with classic Barigoule Sauce, everything about the plate singing of Spring with the Turbot cooked tender yet flaky enough to be separated by only a fork.
Moving on to a pairing made famous by Martín Berasategui, the stack of Duck Liver and Eel given levity by two styles of Apple before being anchored by Duck Consommé, it just would not be proper to sit down at Guy Savoy without enjoying the famous Artichoke Soup, the fifth time still as worthwhile as the first while taste number one of Chef Asseo’s tender Veal Cheek carefully wrapped in Spaghetti dazzled not only in terms of presentation but the manner in which various Pea textures reminisced of Savoy’s own “Peas All Around.”
Onward then to “le pièce de résistance,” Julien’s Duck barely missed in September finally returned, it is in two services ‘for two’ that a rosy slice of aged Breast is served flanked by an enormous stuffed Morel plus another Napoleon featuring Foie Gras, the flavors intensely earthy and rich before guests are presented with an unlisted surprise of Confit and Offal tucked into housemade Bao and intended to be eaten by hand just like the tradition Peking version.
Opting for a composed Cheese course in place of the Cart, any excuse to eat mature Comte welcomed, it was after slowly savoring spoonfuls of “French Onion Soup” in its highest form that the night was turned over to Pastry Chef Sébastien Polycarpe, the first service of a new creation intended to recreate the experience of eating a Strawberry fresh from the vine achieving its goal admirably before the menu culminated in three layers of unsweetened Dark Chocolate enlivened by Bergamot.
Wrapping up with Mignardises and a visit to the Kitchen, an affable Asseo proudly giving credit to his entire team for everything that had just taken place, it was upon return to the table that palate cleansing Sorbet was offered along with the bill, a box of Pistachios coated in White Chocolate and Raspberry one last parting gift though those who’ve tasted it will likely still be thinking about Savoy’s classic Rice Pudding or Polycarpe’s Salted Chocolate-Caramel Tart.
FIVE STARS: While some may slight Las Vegas for its high volume Restaurants and Celebrity Chef landlords it is places like Guy Savoy that buck that trend and remain rarified regardless of how many places Gordon Ramsay opens, Chef Savoy no more involved here than he is in Paris but Asseo and Polycarpe continuing to turn out plates as beautiful and exciting as the Michelin 3* Flagship with service equally polished and gracious.
RECOMMENDED: Dungeness Crab, Seared Foie Gras and Unagi Napoleon, Artichoke and Black Truffle Soup, Spring Veal Cheek Timballe, Dry Aged Muscovy Duck, Strawberry, Salted Chocolate-Caramel Tart, Rice Pudding, Vanilla Ice Cream
AVOID: N/A
TIP: For those truly looking to up their game check out the website for cooking classes offered in the Guy Savoy Kitchen.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
More a rant than a review, the outlandish amounts of cash that Pharmaceutical Companies spend to bend Physicians’ ears a sore subject for someone who has intentionally lived above the influence for nearly fifteen years, it was after implementing a whole new set of rules to restrict access that lunch was delivered by Christopher Palmeri on Friday, this one hour per week begrudgingly given at least filled with good Food.
Open since 1999 and the focus of over a dozen visits, everything from the original on Arville to Naked City Tavern and even Chef Palmeri’s menu for Bacon Bar the subject of discussion at some point in the last four years, it was finally in late April that Naked City Pizza Delivery was experienced in the form of catering for twenty, the results expectedly not *quite* as good as fresh from the oven, though not far off either.
No doubt a fan of the Restaurant with four current locations, Michael and Chris’ newest spot inside The El Cortez recently visited and soon to be enjoyed again for “Paula’s Supper Club” on May 1st, it was to a smorgasbord of favorites that staff was treated, Caesar Salad with Housemade Dressing proving a popular choice for those looking for something light while Wings tossed to Medium spiciness were called “the best I’ve ever tasted by one” and “not spicy enough” by others.
Wowing skeptics next with Pizza Logs, the listed Pepperoni replaced with housemade Fennel Sausage to great effect beneath a crisp and golden Shell, it was from four ‘half-sheets’ of Pizza that attendees were allowed to pick, the two orders of Cheese selected by the Rep to ‘be safe’ largely leftover as staff found Naked City’s DDD-famous Guinea Pie and Chicken Finger slices most enjoyable though the eponymous Pie with Onions and Roasted Peppers also proved popular for those who didn’t worry about their breath for the second half of the day.
Rounding out the afternoon with Palmeri’s best-in-Sin-City Cannolis, the normally filled-to-order shells holding up even better than Pizza Crust which has suffered just a touch of sog in transit, suffice it to say that all were more than satisfied by a lunch of good ingredients cooked by people who are putting their time, money and hard work on the line to do something they love…and if you happen to see a Social Media post suggesting Monkey Logs are available do not hesitate to place an order for them.
N/A: In a city of two million with over forty million visitors annually it is probably no surprise that independently owned businesses often take a backseat in terms of advertising, but when considering options for catering nothing is more disappointing than the number of dollars being funneled into spots like BJ’s, PF Chang’s or Café Rio – money that would much better support Las Vegas’ small businesses if people would just wake up and stop being so lazy.
Sweet Pierogies – Harry’s Berries Jam, Juniper, Cream, Brown Butter
Vatrushka – Sweet Bread, Quark, Orange, Almond
Formerly part of Light Group, a location next to the nightclub no accident, it was shortly after Red Square Restaurant & Vodka Lounge’s transfer to Hakkasan that Christian Concepcion took over fresh from Portofino, the young Chef with time at noma under his belt reinventing a boring Steakhouse menu into something rooted in the traditions of Eastern Europe that still remains modern and accessible.
Always something of an outlier in the Las Vegas culinary scene, its Vodka Lounge clearly an impetus to place a Restaurant themed on the former Soviet Union near Mandalay Bay’s primary entrance, guests will easily recognize Red Square as the Restaurant harboring a headless statue outside, the likeness of V.I. Lenin decapitated in 1999 amidst controversy but in the process creating another “Vegas” moment whereby visitors can don furs and do shots off the head in sub-zero temperatures.
Situated just off the Casino floor en route to a dining collection that remains one of Sin City’s best, Mandalay Bay’s numbers unfortunately still lagging some six months after the tragic events of October, it was shortly after checking in at the hostess stand that a table for six was readied beneath a sizable chandelier at room’s center, music as well as lights subdued with a red hue making the latter a challenge for amateur Food photographers.
Presenting a one-sheet bill of fare in print that may see older patrons pulling out lighted magnifiers, a much thicker list suggesting a collection of Wines, Cocktails and Spirits, it was abiding to the theme that drinks such as a Moscow Mule, KGB and White Ruskie were requested, each well crafted from top-shelf liquor but at the same time subject to “Strip pricing” at a base of $18.
Ordering broadly from various sections, a request for plates to be coursed out flanked by two surprises attempting to create a true ‘tasting menu’ experience, it was with a trio of Caviar bites that dinner began, housemade Blinis as well as a crispy Potato Chip offering delicate support for everything from Trout to Golden Osetra with each distinct, delicious and also available in traditional by-the-ounce service.
Allowing the kitchen to dictate the pace, a pre-theater surge dying down by eight o’clock allowing Chef Concepcion to spend time describing his extensive research in recreating the concept, it was to the benefit of two children that crunchy Fingerlings with dipping Sauces joined a collection of imported Charcuterie for round one, the chunky Pate of Pork and Beef amongst many highlights but Troyanka’s spin on Finochietta stealing the show with big notes of Paprika showing where Fennel often overwhelms.
Moving on to a collection of Starters and Salads, most surprisingly well portioned at prices that range $14-$16, it is not even in the simple Chop Salad that Concepcion goes low-effort as a pile of Vegetables is enlivened by housemade ‘pickled’ Vinaigrette, the use of Dill prominent but restrained just as it is with Scallop Crudo that even the Kids found enjoyable as their parents focused on what can best be described as “Grandma’s” Stuffed Cabbage without any Rice and superior quality ground Meat.
Happy to see a collection of Dumplings given their own headline, the lack of Chicken Paprikash forgivable even though it would seem better-suited as an entrée than Chicken under a Brick, the decision of where best to invest another $15-$17 comes down to one’s personal preferences though those dining as a group would be well-served to order all three, the Vareniki probably ‘safest’ as Christian’s Pasta making skills are exhibited in Mushroom Ravioli though the Pierogies should be prioritized by those familiar as they are as good as what one will find in the ‘ethnic’ shops of Pittsburgh or Cleveland.
Further impressed by Khachapuri, the Georgian boat of bubbling Cheese cooking an Egg added tableside into a gooey Fondue eaten like Pizza, it was by way of three Entrees and an equal number of sides that savories came to a conclusion, Escoffier’s model for Beef Wellington serving Salmon inside delicate Puff Pastry for just $29 while the Stroganoff and tongue-in-cheek “Gorba” Chop were both highlight reel dishes priced affordably for sharable portions, the former brightened by Carrots and Dill while the Bone-in Short Rib eats like Portofino’s Osso Bucco amidst springy Egg Noodles.
Slowing down at this point, Brussels Sprouts gone and only a few spoonfuls of sweet Cabbage or Mushrooms n’ Cheese remaining, it was with palates cleansed by Coffee that three Desserts were offered, this part of the experience still “a work in progress” according to Chef Concepcion and only the buttery Bread Pudding currently on the menu, though with any luck the flaky Pastry filled with fresh Cheese, Fruit and Nuts as well as pan-seared Dumplings full of Juniper-perfumed Berries will be quick to join it.
FOUR AND A HALF STARS: Swiftly modernizing a nearly twenty year old space, the “Russianesque” Steakhouse menu replaced by dishes that often taste like those from an Eastern European Grandmother’s kitchen, much credit is due to Chef Concepcion and his team for doing the research and getting this one right…now if only MGM’s marketing gurus will work as diligently to make sure everyone is paying attention to both Red Square and the rest of Mandalay Bay’s wonderful offerings.
RECOMMENDED: Heritage Charcuterie, Meatballls, Vareniki, Pierogi, Gorba Chop, Stroganoff, Brussels Sprouts, Bread Pudding, Off Menu Desserts if/when they become available.
AVOID: Alcohol is expectedly spendy and Mushrooms Julienne were a bit too briny for many, Desserts not served due to being too “American” are left to other’s opinions.
TIP: Open 4:00p to 11:00p daily with Dinner Service starting at 5:00pm and Happy Hour in the Lounge from 4:00pm to 6:00pm. Check Groupon for occasional discounts.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
