With roots in Sicily, the story of Vito & Nick’s Pizzeria starts around 1923, first a tavern and then another from Vito Barraco before the addition of Pizza when son Nick joined the business after being discharged from the US Air Force.
Starting as thick squares, but eventually developing the thin Dough that typifies Chicago’s signature “Tavern Style,” it is currently at 84th and Pulaski that guests can experience what many consider to be one of Chi-town’s best Pies – a rumor undoubtedly benefited from Guy Fieri’s Diners, Drive-Ins, & Dives.
At this point a South Side institution, and still operating at limited capacity amidst COVID-19, guests visiting Vito & Nick’s can expect brusque greetings and cash-only sales, Nick Barraco’s 1965 quote that “We will never deliver, if they want a truly great pizza, they will come in for it” still standing today.
Known for using housemade Italian Sausage and Giardiniera, the latter with Italian Beef something of a signature, it was instead from a middle-age waitress who smelled of cigarettes that an $18.25 “Half Sausage/Half Cheese” was served, a slightly charred edge and plenty of Herbs enjoyable though the Crust was neither as thin or crackling as that of Pat’s on North Lincoln.
Arguably Chicago’s most consistently-excellent Pastry Chef in recent years, stints at Michelin 2* RIA and Sixteen followed by a turn to wholesale in 2018, Aya Fukai settled into West Town last August with her eponymous Bakery featuring everything from Macarons and Viennoiseries to Cakes and Pies.
A former James Beard Foundation Award nominee, with items dotting the menus of spots like nearby Tempesta Market before debuting Aya Pastry, it is amidst pandemic precautions that the space at 1332 West Grand Avenue currently serves guests from 9:00am until 4:00pm daily.
Offering online ordering, currently the easiest way to guarantee a wide variety of options that are known to sell-out early, it was shortly after opening that the storefront was found bright and welcoming, the clerk quickly adding a warm Milk Roll filled with Coconut Cream and crowned with Royal icing to the bag already containing five selections.
Also delivering within a set radius, though an opportunity to see the store’s décor is encouraged, signatures from Eater’s 2016 National Pastry Chef of the Year include jumbo “Dino Macs” that break crisp to fillings like PB&J plus a Kouign Amann that crackles and flakes with up-front sweetness slowly dissipating to a rich and buttery finish.
Adding a touch of Sourdough to Croissants, the Almond version on par with many in France thanks to imported Butter plus housemade Paste imbued with Rum, suffice it to say Fukai’s Biscuit outperforms both Bang Bang and Baker Miller at a lower price point while the $4 Samoa Cake riffs on a Girl Scout icon with Chocolate-Brown Sugar Cake frosted in Dulce de Leche Buttercream beneath Toasted Coconut and Chocolate Ganache.
A concept from The Fifty/50 Restaurant Group, West Town Bakery & Diner took over the space previously operated by Bleeding Heart Bakery in 2012, and through careful expansion now serves both River North and Wrigleyville in additional to the original at 1916 West Chicago Avenue.
Keeping some aspects of the Bleeding Heart’s graffitied design, and currently one of the Windy City’s few full-service bakeshops with indoor seating, it is amidst COVID-19 precautions that guests will find West Town clean and well-stocked, a fairly concise list of brunch favorites offered alongside Pastries from Chef/Partners Chris Teixeira and Sam Turner.
Sparsely populated on a rainy Tuesday, traffic flowing one-way with all staff masked and gloved, it was with seven items bagged that Breakfast was enjoyed on the patio, the last Chocolate Almond Croissant enjoyable save for a clump of Frangipane while West Town’s $2.25 Chocolate Chip Cookie lacks not for Butter or Vanilla amidst the crispy edge and soft center.
Open from 7am until 3pm daily, customers on this particular morning ranging in age from kids in strollers to septuagenarians, Teixeira and Turner’s Donuts feature springy Brioche with an exaggerated rise, both Coffee-Cream filled and “Homer” a bargain under three bucks while $1.95 Cake Balls may not be the most frugal choice, though both Carrot and French Toast were two perfect bites embodying West Town Bakery’s “principal belief that everyone should be able to have their Cake and eat it too.”
Debuted in Pilsen late-2017, S.K.Y. is Chef Stephen Gillanders’ first solo project, a decade with Jean-Georges Vongrichten plus two years at LEYE’s “Intro” developing a diverse skill-set that sees Gillanders exploring global influences that feel both familiar and distinctive at the same time.
Boasting the initials of wife Seon Kyung Yuk, her vision responsible for a modern space housed inside a building constructed during the 19th Century, guests visiting S.K.Y. amidst the global pandemic will find tables sparsely filled and service especially accommodating with a bevy of safety precautions in place.
Seated after a quick temperature check, high-tops in the bar perfect for singles as TV On The Radio played overhead, it was after perusing a QR Code menu that the night’s special was suggested, Salt Cod pureed with silky-soft Potatoes alongside housemade Fry Bread and Jalapeno Peppers a perfect example of Gillanders’ intent to “prepare familiar Ingredients in a modern, innovative way.”
Born in Los Angeles, but Asian-inflected across much of S.K.Y.’s menu, dish two saw the kitchen fuse France with the American South by way of Cornbread Madelines, undoubtedly a far-cry from Proust’s ideal but nonetheless delectable while signature Lobster Dumplings offered thin-yet-sturdy Gyoza packed with Meat afloat in Butter primed with Yuzu, Chervil, Chiles and Mint.
Told the Fried Chicken was something special, but reluctant to pass on Chef Gillanders’ Bibimbap, it would need to be a World-class piece of Poultry to compete with roasted Duck Liver atop Mushrooms, Scallions, Nori and blackened Chinese Broccoli – not to mention housemade Gochujang that added heat and umami to bowl-crisped Rice beneath.
Not stopping here, though the aforementioned plates would be a good amount of Food for most couples, it was on the server’s suggestion that a “baby” Banana Budino arrived alongside S.K.Y.’s recently-added Mille-Fuille, the former a worthy signature from Pastry Chef Tatum Sinclair with hints of Bananas Foster while the latter rivaled any in France – including Jacques Genin and Alain Passard – in terms of taste and texture.
Originally opened by Sam Levine and Fred Bartoli in 1966, Gino’s East is considered to be one of Chicago’s “Big Four” for Deep Dish, and differentiating themselves from Uno’s, Lou’s or Giordano’s by laying Cheese directly atop the Crust their Pies are now offered both by mail-order and at a dozen locations across the United States.
Having since abandoned 160 East Superior Street in favor of fancier digs, the Magnificent Mile location ever popular despite prices nearly double Windy City institutions such as Pat’s, it was amidst COVID-19 precautions that Gino’s South Loop spot was visited, the outdoor patio not exactly scenic but also uncrowded.
Having shuttered several branches long before the pandemic, and garnering luke-warm praise from Pizza aficionados, it was after twenty-minutes wait that a 9” with Sausage was presented, nearly $26 after tax and tip plus $4.50 parking for something barely tepid with Cheese that did not stretch beneath a fair-to-middling Sauce.
Although Puerto Rican Cuisine has a long and storied history the Jibarito is a relatively new idea, its first sighting somewhere around 1996 at Restaurant Borinquen in Chicago’s Humboldt Par neighborhood where brothers Juan and Angel Figueroa trademarked the Sandwich translated as “little hillbilly” in Spanish.
Now served across America, and popularized locally by Jesus Arrieta’s growing chain entitled Jibaritos y Más, it is to the 3400 West Fullerton Avenue that many flock for a Sandwich comprised of Steak, Cheese, Veggies and Mayo between two flattened-fried Plantains.
Venezuelan by background, Jesus and his wife now managing three stores with the first launched by his mother in 2016, it is under pandemic precautions that Jibaritos y Más currently operates as take-out and delivery only, hours from 10:00am until 7:45pm daily still busy with foot service plus drivers from DoorDash and UberEats.
The only American city with an officially designated Puerto Rican neighborhood, and home to one of the island’s largest mainland populations, Jibaritos y Más additionally offers a wide range of items native to Puerto Rico, the $1.25 Beef-stuffed Potato Ball large enough to share but delicious enough that one probably won’t want to.
Not the sort of place that cuts corners, Octopus and Morcilla finding themselves alongside Tostones and Pastele, it was while waiting for a made-to-order Jibarito that Salt Cod was enjoyed flattened and fried, every bite gone before delving into Jibaritos y Más’ eponymous dish that is not only a bargain at $6.95, but a textural masterpiece with some bites crunchy, others more creamy and a lingering air of Garlic.
Billed as Chicago’s “oldest traditional Chinese Bakery,” the flagship at 2253 South Wentworth Avenue an updated location with modern signage, Chiu Quon Bakery & Dim Sum has been serving residents of the Windy City since 1986.
Owned by Joyce Chiu and brother Matthew, their no-frills approach to Pastries, Cakes, Buns and more having additionally entered Uptown with further expansion planned, it is from 7:00am until 8:00pm daily that guests are welcomed – COVID-19 currently seeing extra safety measures implemented at a space that already appears quite clean.
Cash only then and now, with dining area currently closed but take-out sales faring well thanks to Chiu Quon’s recent partnership with Facebook advertising, it is from over 100 daily items that diners must make choices, many of them identifiable to those familiar with Chinese Cuisine but others previously unseen.
Purporting to use “the finest Ingredients,” a dubious statement considering the low price point, it was at a cost of just under $17 that ten choices were bagged, a lack of seating finding the Taro Bun enjoyed on nearby church steps while Black Sesame baked similarly had an unpleasant gelatinous center as though it was undercooked.
Next sampling a refrigerated Walnut Bean Paste Cake, the Pastry on this as well as a “mini” Moon Cake buttery around well-textured Filling, suffice it to say that arriving immediately after Egg Custard Tarts emerged from the oven was fortuitous – both Hong Kong and Portuguese styles still jiggly with *better* largely a matter of personal taste.
Taking a chance or two before finishing familiar, Chiu Quon’s Sesame Pork Cookie undoubtedly an acquired taste, it seems hard to believe anyone might enjoy a “Peanut Rice Cake” that eats like sawdust in a flavorless Hostess Snoball, a far better taste and value offered by textbook Sesame Balls or golden Dough baked around subtly sweet Lotus Paste.
Migrated from Lincoln Square to 4655 North Lincoln Avenue after a lease dispute in 2018 Baker Miller is no stranger to turmoil, and amidst a global pandemic the concept from Megan Miller and husband David has resorted to take-out only from 8am until 3pm Thursday through Monday.
Officially titled Baker Miller Bakery & Dinette, a combination café and mill house from former Bang Bang Pie employees that debuted in 2014, much of the Miller’s early praise came from house-ground Grains, hand-milled Flour and Chicago’s first “Toast Bar,” while critiques of both price and inconsistency have also been commonplace.
Using online or walk-up ordering during COVID-19, staff appropriately donning PPE but inattentive-bordering-on-rude while waiting for two slices of Bread to be toasted, it was on a nearby bench that the Miller’s goods were eaten, buttered naturally-leavened Sourdough an immediate highlight thanks to both tanginess and crumb while a $3.75 Biscuit was arguably underbaked at the bottom but nonetheless enjoyable.
Trying hard not to focus on prices, David and Megan’s commitment to their craft most certainly commendable, it is hard not to raise an eyebrow at $3.50 for a two-bite Sandwich Cookie that tastes mostly like Sugar, a quarter more for double the amount of Chocolate Chips and perfectly baked Dough faring far better in terms of taste as well as value.
Also performing well with a toothsome Thumbprint Cookie, Strawberry Jam providing just enough sweetness to a blend of Nuts and Oats, those seeking a “signature” item will find it in Baker Miller’s “Doughboy,” the baked round far lighter than a Doughnut and currently dressed like Cinnamon Toast Crunch Cereal clocking in at $4.50 after tax – far better than the more expensive Blueberry Oat Muffin which finds Fruit in a clump at the center of an otherwise flavorless matrix.
Previously visited in July of 2018, the best meal in a year that also included Central, Faviken and Frantzen, expectations entering Smyth amidst a global pandemic were measured, yet from the moment reservations were made until exit the Shields’ and staff proved precisely why their Restaurant at 177 North Ada Street is a destination like no other.
Named after the county in Virginia where Town House still stands, and the ideas developed inside those walls, Smyth espouses true “farm to table cooking” without conventional boundaries, a “come as you are” dress policy currently paired to socially distanced seating that makes guests feel more than just safe, but instead truly welcome.
Led from foyer to table past a kitchen crew of at least eleven, The Rolling Stones’ “19th Nervous Breakdown” fading into “Careless Whisper,” it was at the suggestion of GM Christopher Gerber that a special menu was proposed, an easy decision that saw the night begin with vibrant Tea further brightened by Herbs and Flowers.
Working closely with Rebecca Papineau’s The Farm to assure continued access to the sort of ingredients the Shieldses became accustomed to in Chilhowie, a majority of Smyth’s Produce brought in daily from those twenty acres an hour south, follow-up bites included Caramelized Eggplant served in a Shiso “Cone” and fresh Uni striking an unlikely balance between Mint and Hot Sauce.
Beholden to no rules beyond the ones John and Karen create, a mound of Caviar plated alongside Green Almonds and Cream developing slowly with a buttery-sweet finish, Tomatoes were again featured amidst Citrus as “Ceviche” before delving into meaty grilled Fish followed by a sliced Melon chaser.
Cleaning fingers with Lemon-scented towels, a bottle of Sanitizer on every table while all staff donned appropriate PPE, guests were next offered a preview of autumn via Butternut Squash cooked with Pork before backtracking to summer in a dish of Strawberries, Lobster and a hint of Horseradish.
Heavier henceforth, though not without a bevy of nuance, Eel cooked over the embers arrived afloat in unctuous Broth before savories came to a close with tender Short Rib, umami-infused Tomatoes and a delicate piece of fried Bread to soak up all the Sauce.
Turning the program over to Karen Urie Shields and her Pastry team from here, sweets began with Seaweed Ice Cream beneath shards of Chocolate and the same Habanada Peppers used earlier to spice Uni, a palate “shocker” more than cleanser soon followed by Sunflower Panna Cotta, Peach Granita and additional textural elements.
Served in just over two hours, a fine pace in line with current practices throughout Chicago, four more bites arrived along with a thank you from Mr. Gerber, each Tart delicate and well-crafted while Lavender-scented Grapes plus the “Pine Crunch” Bar further exemplified Smyth’s rare ability to use otherwise potent flavors subtly.
Part of Pilsen since 1973, Panadería Nuevo Leon has continued to serve a largely Hispanic population throughout most of the pandemic, and although the traditional self-service model has required some alterations their collection of housemade Breads, Tortillas and Pan Dulce remain a local favorite.
Well-adapted to modern times, a collection of Vegan items plus an active Instagram account amongst the reasons guests travel across town to 1634 West 18th Street, it was around 2:00pm that shelves were found stocked, a trio of employees pleasant and efficient while following safety precautions.
Also offering a Creperia next door, ownership’s willingness to embrace fusion visible across the Panadería’s diverse collection, most shoppers will nonetheless find themselves starting traditionally, Concha soft and light with enough moisture that freshness is evident while “Mante-Concha” Muffins feature similar Sugar-detailing and structure that progresses from airy on top to a Cake-like bottom.
Speaking of Cake, Panadería Nuevo Leon’s Cortadillo amongst the best of its kind thanks to Frosting that is clearly added while warm, Gordita Dulce is an acquired taste that eats like lightly-sweetened Cornbread while a Concha “Ice Cream Sandwich” called La Fresa would benefit from better Ice Cream and Syrup, though given the low price it is still pretty hard not to love.
Fortunate to have visited Vie in 2010, Chef Paul Virant has subsequently made his way into Chicago-proper, and at Gaijin the self-professed outsider opts to take on one of Japan’s most beloved Street Foods while furthering his exploration of fermentation and umami.
Now fifty years old, and dedicating the Restaurant in Fulton Market to his wife who introduced Virant to Okonomiyaki after years of study in Japan, guests will currently find Gaijin operating amidst COVID-19 precautions – social distancing assured from patio to Chef’s Counter and staff exceedingly efficient.
The Windy City’s first Okonomiyaki restaurant, but also home to Pickles, Shaved Ice and a serious Beverage program, it is amidst street style and modestly-loud Hip Hop that diners are invited to relax from 5pm Tuesday through Thursday and noon Friday till Sunday.
Capable of seating sixty, though currently limited to half-that, it was after some perusal that both Hiroshima and Osaka styles of the savory Japanese Pancake were ordered, their preparation just inches away showing far more complexity than some might expect and no shortage of traditional imported Ingredients.
Serious about the product’s authenticity it was by request that Osaka-style was served first, a topping of Shrimp, Corn and spiced Butter all married to a fluffy base by Kewpie with no two bites the same, while Hiroshima-style further incorporated chewy Yakisoba Noodles, Katsuobushi and Bacon atop a nearly-French Crepe on the bottom.
Lively even in inclement weather, staff still having fun while practicing all recommended safety measures, Dessert at Gaijin comes from Vie’s Pastry Chef Angelyne Canicosa, the $5 Rice Flour Donut a questionable value in comparison to $12 for a snowcapped mountain of Shaved Ice wrapped around housemade Gooey Butter Cake Ice Cream and decorated in artisan accoutrements.
Now operating under v2.0 designation, Bridgeport Bakery returned to the Windy City’s South Side in time for Paczki Day 2020, and currently serving the community amidst COVID-19 precautions it seems as though new owner Can Lao has quickly learned the ropes from former Baker Ron Pavelka who was forced to shutter as a result of illness last October.
Well known for Donuts, Bacon Buns and Paczki during Pavelka’s 47 year tenure, a little remodeling and staff donning PPE the only real difference between past and present according to those in the know, it was minutes to 9:30 on Sunday that shelves were found stocked at prices that trend much lower than almost any other Bakery in Chi-town.
Located at 2907 South Archer Avenue, and take-out only long before a global pandemic rendered nearly every similar concept in Chicago the same, it was with eyes larger than stomach that six items were chosen, first bites of an Oatmeal Raisin Cookie pleasantly familiar thanks to bold aromatics, crispy rim and soft center.
Requesting Ron teach him the trade and keeping almost all Bridgeport’s original staff on payroll, Lao’s Donuts ring in at just $1.30 each, traditional “Frycakes” offering a delicate crumb and thick Glaze while a deep-fried Cinnamon Roll eats light, wispy and oilless at the exact same price.
Already sold out of Bacon Buns, and oddly offering a few types of Dim Sum, Breakfast continued with a daily-special Danish-duo, Cream Cheese and Apricot dueling for top billing before getting lost in the wake of a tart and sweet Cherry Slice.
Tempted by Coffee Cake and Muffins, but mindful of stomach capacity in the midst of a long day, there was simply no passing up on housemade Rainbow Cookies, the combination of Almond Paste and Raspberry Jam slow to melt and beautifully balanced by Dark Chocolate.
Founded by Luigi Scafuri in 1904 the Bakery bearing his family name has a long and storied history in Chicago’s Near West Side, its location at 1337 West Taylor Street now owned and operated by Great-great-nieces Michelle and Kelly since 2013.
Native to Calabria, and no stranger to difficult times including Scafuri Bakery’s six-year closure beginning in 2007, guests in the era of COVID-19 will find the narrow space currently open for take-out from 8:00am to 1:00pm Friday through Sunday, a male employee the only person present and not especially pleasant around 9:00am as a steady-rain fell outside.
Currently offering a limited menu of largely non-Italian items, Croissants, Donuts and Scones replacing Tricolor Cookies, Sfogliatelle or Baba, it is from a menu lacking prices that choices are made, $2.25 for a Yeast Donut no better than Dunkin simply egregious while $3.00 for a Chocolate Frosted Bombolini would have seemed a better value if the Butterscotch center didn’t taste like store-bought Pudding.
Heartened by a Cheese Danish, good lamination and a modestly-sweetened center comparing favorably to others tasted across America, those seeking something savory were left to choose between Turkey Parmesan Croissants or Scafuri’s Fig + Prosciutto Scone, the latter a bit dry but otherwise enjoyable while a “Pastry Case Favorite” Cherry Brownie ate fudgey and Cake-like plenty of Fruit within.
Born in West Dundee, John and Allison Reno’s CRAFT Donuts + Coffee inched closer to Chicago during summer of last year, an outpost inside the Des Plaines Metra Station offering several of the couple’s artisan rings for guests with the foresight to drive right past Dunkin.
Currently open from 8am until Noon Friday thru Sunday, COVID-19 precautions and convenient online ordering making the walk-up window, curbside handoff or delivery all viable options, it was with rain pelting down that six selections were found boxed and ready, the Gluten Free choice visibly smaller than the others and frankly depressing for those with Celiac or perceived intolerance who have to settle for such an insipid and texturally disastrous “treat.”
Leaving behind two-thirds of the outlier, CRAFT Donuts immediately earned their title with three Vegan Yeast-raised rounds, the fact that no Eggs or Butter can produce such a fluffy base unexpected while Toppings including thick Cookie Butter and stewed-Peaches plus Streusel came liberally applied and delicious.
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Further impressed by Maple Chai, chopped Pecans adding a toasty linger to the already complex pairing, fans of Cake Donuts should keep an eye on CRAFT Donuts + Coffee’s rotating menu because although the standard Old Fashioned is good, Double Chocolate is a work of art thanks to the soft Brownie-like Dough fried just long enough to render the outer-edge crispy.
A West Loop resident long before Fulton Market became Chicago’s hottest hangout, Sepia’s reopening sees the Restaurant operating in a new era of social distancing and time limits while the current $65 prix fixe may just be the Windy City’s best Michelin-starred bargain.
Housed in a 19th century print shop since 2007, restaurateur Emmanuel Nony smartly recruiting Executive Chef Andrew Zimmerman in 2009 and since earning accolades from the French tire guide, JBF and Jean Banchet Awards, diners visiting Sepia in the era of Covid-19 will begin their evening with checked temperatures followed by city-mandates necessitating masks be worn any time staff approach the table with fresh serviceware or even a refill of Water.
Undeniably inconvenient, QR Code menus another anomaly amidst this temporary “new normal,” it is largely thanks to the room’s grand appearance and gracious service that an air of refinement is retained, though the greatest part of Sepia’s appeal remains attributable to Chef Zimmerman and CDC Kyle Cottle’s Food.
Best classified as “Contemporary American,” though oftentimes globally influenced and focused on seasonal Produce, dinner began with an amuse of lemony Cucamelons amidst modernist textures, a breath of freshness quickly gone and followed by the first of two “Parker Rolls” that were nothing like the Boston namesake but nonetheless buttery and delicious.
A complimentary duo in terms of influence, Zimmerman’s training at the French Culinary Institute and time at NoMI visible in finessed flavors while Cottle’s tenure with Achatz is evidenced by manipulated textures that act to enhance rather than just “show off,” Foie Gras Mousse comes curved at $15 supplement, and eaten left-to-right explores Liver’s ability to magnify everything from earthy Sunchoke Chips to dried Shiso and juicy Cherries.
Adding another $16 for a second plate from course two, Corn Agnolotti with Pickled Blueberries and popped Sorghum suspiciously similar to Marc Vetri’s dish at Osteria Fiorella just one week prior, suffice it to say that although good it in no way compared to Chawanmushi that reminisces of Quenelles de Brochet with a velvety mouthfeel and generous amounts of Lobster.
Not about to pass on Duck, the combination of Stonefruits and Midwest Onions acting as a deft foil to complex Sauce, Dessert sees newly-acquired Pastry Chef Lauren Terrill prone to whimsy, her globally-traveled palate presenting aggressively spiced Funnel Cake with Nuts, Berries, Peaches and Citrus.
Lemon Italian Ice Push Pop from Zarlengo Family of Chicago Heights
Although outsiders will suggest Las Vegas’ Pizza scene cannot compare to the likes of New York or Chicago it comes as no surprise to in-the-know locals that Michelin 2* Chef Noah Sandoval reached out to Metro Pizza’s John Arena when concocting the Dough for his Sicilian-style concept that recently took over the old Bite Cafe space in Ukrainian Village.
A collaboration called Pizza Friendly Pizza, its current location in the alley behind Bruce Finkelman’s Empty Bottle offering four daily Slices or Pies from a walk-up window, guests in the era of COVID-19 will find the space open Wednesday through Sunday from 4:30pm, social distancing assured by the fast-paced line and a kitchen that already operates with efficiency.
Priced at $4.50 per Slice, a smattering of Salads and Sandwiches plus well-priced Alcohol rounding out Pizza Friendly Pizza’s concise menu, those seeking a low-cost customizable Pie will be better served elsewhere as Sandoval predictably cuts no corners in terms of Ingredient quality or attention to detail.
Quick to gain popularity, a dozen patrons in line before the patio opened for business, it was fifteen minutes later that three squares and a locally-made Italian Ice were taken to seats along West Cortez Street, first bites of Rapini & Lemon bright with faint smokiness but most notable for Crust that is thick but buoyant with a crackling base and developed yeastiness.
Staying “cheffy” with Ruben’s Special, housemade Italian Sausage plus medium-spicy Giardiniera undeniably *Chicago* beneath Provolone, those seeking Pizza Friendly Pizza’s most usual Slice will find it listed as “Pepperoni & Basil,” but even here Sandoval sources Ezzo’s baked to crisp cups and matches it to aged Parm plus a bit of Mozzarella atop just a splash of Sauce.
Making a home in Logan Square since late-Summer 2018 Pretty Cool Ice Cream is the brain-child of Bang Bang Pie and Biscuits founder Michael Ciapciak in conjunction with Dana Cree, the pair’s focus on frozen treats forgoing the traditional “Scoop Shop” and instead tackling Ice Cream on a stick.
Now socially distanced during COVID-19 precautions, bleacher-style seating and photogenic interior closed to the public while two young men serve guests from a small window, it is via online ordering or a menu taped to glass that selections are made, dipped versus undipped and Vegan or otherwise comprising some thirty flavors.
Certainly not the Ice Cream Truck of yesteryear, prices between $3.50 and $5.50 justified by entirely Gluten-free onsite production of each and every Bar or Pop, additional piece of mind comes from designer packaging such that the edible component of each is unexposed to both employees as well as other customers.
Not a good spot for the indecisive, but freezing each pop in such a manner that one guest can manage at least two Bars without worry of melting, this visit began with a collaborative “Piecicle” – the idea of Bang Bang’s Key Lime retooled into something of Popsicle rather than Ice Cream with recognizable tartness but generally underwhelming texture.
Improving henceforth, two Pretty Cool signatures selected in lieu of seasonal options, it might be expected that the author of “Hello My Name Is Ice Cream” would have a way with flavors, the intensity of both Horchata as well as Peanut Butter dialed way up while coatings fractured to the tooth before slowly dissipating and leaving behind the crunchy components.
Owned and operated by the same family since 1950 it seems fair to call Pat’s Pizza and Ristorante an “institution,” and although both Chicago’s Pizza scene as well as the world itself have undergone unprecedented change over the last few years the Pizzeria at 2679 North Lincoln Avenue continues to focus on the fundamentals that have gotten them to where they are today.
Open seven days a week in Lincoln Park, just a few blocks from the Diversey Brown or Purple line, it is upon entry to the storied space lined in black & white photos that guests are greeted, socially distanced seating demarcated with all staff appropriately donning PPE.
Known for Tavern Style Pizza, or “Thin Crust” as Pat’s lists it on the menu, diners are additionally offered an array of Appetizers and Entrees plus three sizes of “Chicago Pan Pizza,” IE Deep Dish at about half the price of Lou’s, Uno or Gino’s.
Opting for the best of both worlds, the Pan taking longer to prepare and thus allowing adequate focus on each style hot from the oven, locals say one has not tasted a true “Cracker Crust” until they visit Pat’s, and far be it for this author to argue as the crisp base crackles to the tooth with pockets of air giving way to herbaceous Sauce, melted Cheese and crumbly but moist Fennel Sausage.
Apparently not the Restaurant’s original location, though the same oven is still responsible for each and every Pie, Pat’s deep dish comes extricated from its pan unlike other Chicago staples, and with Cheese better melted plus Crust richer with Butter the overall effect is a significant upgrade on more famous places without the tourists or lines.
Opened in late-Winter 2017, well after America’s Cupcake craze had tapered off, Jennivee’s Bakery has continued to accrue praise thanks to its unique approach including an East Lakeview location, exotic flavors and late-night hours plus exemplary customer service.
Currently take-out only amidst COVID-19, pre-ordering and delivery also offered via the usual third-party vendors, it was moments prior to 2pm that Jennivee’s was found open and welcoming, the clerk ready with recommendations while two additional individuals could be heard working in the kitchen.
Proudly LGBTQ+ owned and operated, Baker Jenni Vee an immigrant from the Philippines with no formal training but a dream plus the skills and determination to make it work, offerings are currently limited to Classics plus a few “Specialties,” the daily Cookie thin but soft-centered and crisp around the edges while Jennivee’s Ensaimada doesn’t necessarily resemble it’s Spanish namesake but remains soft and delicious just the same.
Using a Chiffon base to build Cupcakes and slices, the lighter texture still maintaining substantial moisture across all four flavors, suffice it to say “Classic” takes on a different meaning at Jennivee’s compared to Molly’s or elsewhere, her “Tres Leches” wet but surprisingly not messy while Mango, Ube and Young Coconut with subtle floral notes all achieve great balance thanks to delicate Mousse and textural fillings or toppings.
Chef’s Choice Pizza – Chris Bianco’s Tomatoes, Mushrooms, Charred Red Onions, Mozzarella Cheese, Pesto
Chef’s Choice Pizza – Prosciutto, Pepperoni, Chris Bianco’s Tomatoes, Fresh Mozzarella Cheese, Local Basil
Margherita Pizza – Chris Bianco’s Tomatoes, Fresh Mozzarella Cheese, Local Basil
Housemade Bombolini – Cinnamon-Sugar, Nutella
New York Brulee Cheesecake – Peaches, Local Basil
With Restaurants around the World cautiously serving diners amidst the pandemic Locale Italian Kitchen has continued to support Las Vegas since the earliest days of SARS-CoV-2, and with Chef Marc Marrone now steering Andy Hooper’s spot at Mountain’s Edge the Food has only continued to improve each day.
Nothing short of a destination in the far-Southwest, an area long in need of culinary enlightenment, Phase Two of Nevada’s reopening sees Locale offering dine-in and take-away from Monday through Sunday, the menu evolving daily and now “closer to the Restaurant’s original vision” according to those involved from the beginning.
Already delivered to the office thrice under Chef Marrone’s tenure, both events and Fourth of July takeout exceeding expectations, Tuesday’s delivery came from Mr. Hooper consisting of fourteen items, an abundance able to feed twenty-five at bargain prices considering both Ingredients and portions.
Professionally packed and temperature appropriate, a mix of regional Italian plates and Chef Marrone’s family recipes, nearly a decade at Tao/Lavo further contributing finesse, lunch began with a dialed-up Caprese Salad benefited by Onions and imported Olives while Housemade Garlic Bread delighted many alongside four different Pizzas including one with spicy Jalapenos and another upgrading Margherita with Pepperoni plus Prosciutto.
Lightening things up with Citrus-soaked Broccolini, plus U8 Shrimp bathing in Garlic and Wine atop Escarole, additional Secondi consisted of Sin City’s most robustly flavored Meatballs, the thick bed of Fontina Cheese Polenta and Sauce with some Heat building a true “Secondi” out of something usually offered as a Side Dish.
Adding a trio of Pastas, Rigatoni alla Grappa with Spring Peas and Sundried Tomatoes riffing on Vodka Sauce with impressive results, fans of Gnocchi need look no further than Locale for the lightest Potato Dumplings in Las Vegas, their buoyancy a brilliant foil to slowly-simmered Tomatoes and Pork Ragu while Seafood ‘Fra Diavola’ brought complex heat to fresh Shellfish and Di Napoli Tomatoes.
Doubling down on Dessert, Bombolini with the lightness of Malasada as delicious on their own as when dipped in Nutella, cheerleaders of Cheesecake need to make their way to Locale as soon as possible for a version that eats smooth yet slightly crumbly, dubbed “New York Brulee” but almost Basque in flavor.
N/A: Making it blog policy to not ‘rate’ places based on catering alone, Locale Italian Kitchen continues to serve excellent Food made from local Ingredients at a price point that is more than generous, and under the leadership of Marc Marrone the Food only seems to be getting better with each subsequent order.
RECOMMENDED: Rigatoni alla Grappa, Sunday Sauce Gnocchi, Giant Prawn Scampi, Anita’s Meatballs, Seafood ‘Fra Diavola,’ New York Brulee Cheesecake.
AVOID: N/A.
TIP: Follow @localelv on Social Media for hours, updates menu and specials.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
