Presumably owned by French ex-pats, at least judging by accents, La Fournée occupies a space along Avenida Tulum and serves a concise menu of Breakfasts, Sandwiches, Bread and Coffee.
Open from 7am Sunday through Friday, with a patio in back proving popular in the shade, it is at prices ranging 35-50 pesos that guests are invited to indulge in Pastry, though early Friday found little to love amongst a poorly laminated Croissant or flaccid Rolls, the lone saving grace a decidedly “un-French” buttery Banana Cake.
Marquesita – Edam Cheese, Strawberries, Dulce de Leche
Although Marquesitas are sold by street vendors throughout the Yucatán Peninsula few have gathered a following like Tulum’s Marquesitas El Gallo, and after five minutes watching it is easy to understand why as the owner expertly turns out Waffle after Waffle cooked over fire.
More a crunchy Crepe than a “Waffle” in the Belgian or American sense, its Batter thin like an Ice Cream Cone with hints of Almond, guests are invited to customize to their heart’s content for just 30-50 pesos, Dutch Cheese the most traditional with or without Fruit and in the case of this writer chosen topped with Strawberries plus commercial-grade Caramel.
Also offering Peanut Butter, Nutella or Cream Cheese, a youngster opting for Fruit plus Condensed Milk and Hershey’s Chocolate Syrup, look for El Gallo amongst the shops in Tulum Centro from 6:00pm onward – it is pretty easy to recognize thanks to the lines.
Bone Marrow, Tamarind Pasilla Glace, Charred Scallion, Pickled Onion Flowers
Suckling Pig Roulade, Chorizo Sauce, Chicharron Peanut Crumbles, Fresh Chayote Salad with Garlic and Mint
White Chocolate Cheesecake, Edam Cheese, Coconut, Guava
Built in the spirit of Hartwood, off-the-grid and “micro-seasonal as a current representation of the flora and fauna around us,” ARCA opened in 2015 and has since made a name for itself amongst travelers visiting Tulum’s beachfront road.
Now toqued by Chef Jose Luis Hinostroza, a California native with Mexican roots who came to Tulum by way of Rene Redzepi’s Noma pop-up, ARCA seeks to create bold flavors by working with only the land around it, close ties to local fisherman tying in with the jungle’s intrinsic diversity.
Open air across an expansive footprint, without the need for advanced reservations or a protracted wait for walk-ins, leaves fall from overhead occasionally as copal burns to tame bugs, all this while perusing the menu of a man trained not only in Copenhagen but by the Roca Brothers and Achatz.
Decorated in wood and candles, an ambient soundtrack playing while waiters fluent in English assist a nearly all-American crowd, most tables get started with Bread imbued by the fermented sap of a Maguey Plant, a flavor complex on its own but better with Butter or scoops of charred Marrow in a Tamarind Glaze beneath Onions.
More pricey than Hartwood, a portion of Cephalopod prepared like Adobo and plated in “new Nordic” fashion offering approximately 1/4 the Protein at similar cost, Soft Shell Crabs strike a seasonal note thanks to flash-frying and service in a green leaf intended to be eaten like a Taco with local Gooseberries and fiery Salsa.
Next kissing three Prawns with fire in a thick and tangy Sauce, similar to five better-executed by Chef Eric Werner the previous night, Suckling Pig arrived crisp on the exterior but spoon-tender at the center alongside spiral-cut Chayote before ending just sixty minutes after seating with frozen Edam Cheesecake filled with Guava and rolled in Coconut.
Al Pastor Taco, Chorizo Taco, Pork Taco, Beef Taco
If arriving at El Carboncito’s listed opening-hour of 12:00pm only to find staff working on a broken down car seems surprising it shouldn’t, at least according to a local store owner, but for those with the patience to return a few hours later the reward is some of Tulum’s cheapest and best Al Pastor.
Another stop along Avenida Tulum, and even more sparse than Antojitos La Chiapaneca, El Carboncito is best-known for marinated Pork cooked adjacent Charcoal, the price of just 10 pesos each yielding succulent Flesh imbued with smoke but brightened by Onions and generous chunks of Pineapple.
Raising prices a few pesos for Chorizo, Beef and Pork, the former straight from a package, Condiments including housemade Salsa prove requisite for flavor on everything but the spit-cooked Meat, though portions are generous.
Conveniently located on Avenida Tulum, Campanella Cremerie has made a name for itself by peddling some of Mexico’s finest Gelato, though for many the air conditioned store with a shaded outdoor patio is just as popular for Coffee and Pastry in a pleasant atmosphere.
Bilingual and buoyed by accolades including a second place finish at the 2016 World Gelato Tour, no small feat against global competition, it is from twenty daily flavors that guests are invited to make choices, everything from indigenous Fruits to Straciatella showing well thanks to a dense and creamy base.
Eventually settling on Banana Crunch and Caramel, though Coffee roasted by Italians with Beans from Veracruz was tempting, it was only the presence of Pastel de Nata that prevented adding a Campanella Waffle, though in retrospect this was a misguided decision since the typically crisp Shell was compromised by Quintana Roo’s omnipresent humidity.
Al Pastor Taco, Asada Taco, Chicken Taco, Aasada Salbute
One of the most highly-regarded Taquerias in Tulum, Antojitos de Chiapaneca has only recently begun opening before noon, and whether local or tourist this is great news since it means access to some of the area’s very best grilled Meats for lunch or late breakfast.
Practiced in brevity as well as low prices, Al Pastor, Beef or Chicken on Tortillas versus Bread, it is for 13 pesos each that double rounds of Corn arrive loaded with Meat, each quite good on their own or with complimentary Condiments from Molcajete bowls, though the Pastror with a nearly-caramelized exterior is undeniably La Chiapaneca’s best choice.
Established by cousins in 2015, Suculenta Tamalería is celebrated locally for its entirely Vegan menu, but even those more accustomed to Masa wrapped around Chicken or Pork will find a lot to like about the scratch-made fare prepared in this bare-bones place.
Open from 9:00am daily in downtown Tulum, just two women in a kitchen fronting their own courtyard garden, guests arriving early are given an opportunity to watch the pair carefully fold six types of daily Tamales while Soups bubble on a stove adjacent refrigerators packed with Vegetables.
Hailing from CDMX, but at Suculenta preparing Tamales Oaxaqueños featuring local Mayan ingredients, deciding on one “best” option is an undeniably daunting task, though the mix of bitter Mole and sweet Plantains juxtaposing Mushrooms and a Tamale studded with soft Lentils are pretty tough to beat.
Priced at 50 pesos each, with most diners likely sated by two, be sure to ask for Salsa if spiciness is desired, and for those seeking a sweet finish the 40 peso Loaf of Carrot Cake packs a lot of complexity and moisture despite its lack of Frosting.
Currently operating as an open-air patio during the pandemic Ki’bok Coffee remains popular for good reason – a combination of locally roasted Beans and bargain Breakfasts featuring choices both savory and sweet.
Located on Centauro Sur in downtown Tulum, far from the bustling beaches and family-run, it is after warm greetings that guests are offered a choice of seating configurations, those under the shade of palms popular for good reason even before the midday sun.
Sourcing Coffee from Veracruz and Chiapas, with Baristas capably creating a variety of Lattes and Cappuccino, purists will find Espresso clean and rich without a lot of acid, the addition of Ice necessary for those not accustomed to the heat forming a chilly makeshift Americano.
Built for a prolonged morning of conversation or work, with low volume and room to spread out, do consider housemade Pastries as a starter, prices 35-50 pesos an undeniable bargain for loaded Carrot Cake or a decadent Brownie while Chilaquiles for less than $5USD include crisp housemade Chips beneath an abundance of Cheese, Salsa and roast Chicken.
Sea Bass Collar in “Buffalo” Sauce, Grapefruit, Avocado
Crispy Octopus, Potatoes, Herbs, Lime
Pork Ribs, Pineapple, Chicharron, Pickles
Eggplant, Red Mole, Nut Ash
Orange Flan, Sesame Crumbles
Salted Honey Cake, Chamomile Cream
Corn and Mayan Honey Ice Cream
Peanut Brittle Ice Cream
Now synonymous with Tulum’s dining scene, Hartwood is best taken as a work of passion, American ex-patriots Eric Werner and Mya Henry establishing the foundation for a whole new type of Restaurant after falling in love with the now-busy beach road in 2009.
Off-grid by necessity, solar energy powering lights and music while cookery occurs over open flames, it is via advanced reservations (or a lengthy wait for walk-ins) that diners are granted access, every table busy from 6pm until 10pm as staff circulates with burning buckets of copal to help dissuade mosquitoes.
Zero-emissions by choice, all Proteins and Produce locally sourced for a daily-evolving menu naming only the primary Ingredient, it is from memory that talented servers recite choices, the prices expensive in comparison to Mexico as a whole but about half what an experienced diner might pay in New York, Paris or Tokyo.
All gravel floor and palm trees, with expected humidity hanging heavy, many diners will select Fruit-based Cocktails to quench their thirst, with most pairing nicely to Appetizers like succulent Lamb Barbacoa Tacos or charred Prawns bathed in a vibrant orange Sauce.
Inhabited exclusively by tourists, many the linen-clad inhabitants of nearby resorts, savvy diners will not pass on crispy Octopus that maintains its characteristic chew amidst a nearly-Spanish backdrop, while Bone-in Sea Bass bathed in piquant Dressing finds balance in Avocado and Citrus.
Better than nearby Arca or Nu, with Chef Werner’s understanding of the Yucatán allowing great Ingredients to shine without a lot of fuss, Eggplant in Red Mole comes grilled nearly-burnt adjacent fork-tender Pork Ribs complimented by Pineapple and housemade Pickles.
Unrushed despite the crowds, laid-back but certainly not slow, Dessert continues a rustic theme via bitter-sweet Flan and extra-moist Honey Cake, though the real stars are daily Ice Creams that on this evening featured Corn with local Honey and creamy Peanut Brittle with just a touch of added sweetness.
Known as a late-night hotspot in the days before COVID-19 Don Sirloin remains during daylight hours today, all four locations still doing good business with the most popular that on Avenida Constituyentes not far from El Fogon.
A little more expensive than the competition, approximately 2 additional pesos and one less Tortilla per Taco, it is directly from the spit that Meat is sliced quickly, the Pastor bright orange but not nearly so succulent as El Fogon, though the eponymous Beef finds fat rendered with flesh extra-tender.
Also offering Hamburgers, Burritos and booze, with service English-fluent and friendly, an under-discussed surprise is Don Sirloin’s Chorizo with unexpected brightness and medium-heat that dissipates with a hint of Cinnamon lingering.
Undeniably the most well-known Taqueria in Playa del Carmen, El Fogon’s location at Avenida Constituyentes needs no introduction, even though the original is found a bit further from tourist-central.
Offering full-service across three storefronts, a well-stocked bar proving popular during peak times, guests are invited to explore a variety of Meats atop Tortillas or Bread, prices beginning at 18 pesos more pricey than others, though by-and-large still a bargain considering the portions.
Unassuming in open air, spinning Sirloin and Asada visible adjacent the grill, service at El Fogon is quick and friendly, a total of eight double-Tortilla Tacos arriving in less than ten minutes alongside freshly grilled Onions, creamy housemade Flan and toppings plus Salsa.
Certainly no secret, most clientele seemingly local on a weekday at 11:30am, first bites of Sirloin find the Beef well-seasoned and tender despite a fairly lean cut while finely-chopped Chorizo is hindered by a hard-seer until partially-blackened, the better bet instead thin slices of marinated Pork topped with caramelized Pineapple, Cilantro and Onion that may just be the best in town.
Nowhere near Playa del Carmen’s tourist corridor, El Gran Taco is the sort of place that only those with a car and attuned culinary radar will discover, but for fans of Guisado there is no better place in town to tuck in amongst the locals.
Owned by a fourth generation restaurateur, her family recipes served up in a lot across from Sam’s Club from 8:30am until 4:30pm Tuesday through Sunday, it is from a fairly sizable menu that guests are asked to make choices, most items ranging 20-50 pesos despite sizable portions.
Open-air and no frills, housemade Carnitas a popular choice thanks to bits of skin chopped like North Carolina BBQ, diners are invited to choose from a half-dozen Stews offered daily, Potatoes and Pig in smoky Red Sauce deeply imbued with spice while Tripe in Salsa Verde balances richness with acidity.
Also home to Gorditas and Flautas, the former layered with Beans inside a crisp Masa pocket, guests with a bit of patience will also be rewarded by housemade Mole that is medium-thick and minimally sweet with plenty of earthy aromatics top Cheese Enchiladas.
Located on Calle 38 Norte, towards the quiet end of 5th Avenue, La Brioche portends to offer a taste of Paris in Playa del Carmen, and does so with mixed success at a very fair price.
A new-ish contender to Chez Celine at Breakfast, with an air conditioned interior and open air patio, guests can stop by La Brioche beginning at 7:00am daily, the fact that most items cost well below $5USD made more impressive by the degree of craftsmanship implemented in Pastries for 50 pesos.
Prone to the same elements that make baking in Quintana Roo a challenge, but faring better with humidity than the likes of Das Brot, Breakfast began with Pan Suisse, the item’s popularity in Mexico admittedly quite surprising and at La Brioche better than others while an Almond Croissant is unfortunately doughy without much evidence of lamination.
Improving with a Raisin Snail, its spiral protected by Butter harboring plump Fruit, credit is due for the textbook Choux comprising a Paris Brest filled with delicate Cream while a Pecan Tart attests to good ingredients blended without a lot of added sweetness to fill crisp Crust.
Arguably Playa del Carmen’s most popular eatery, La Cueva del Chango is not actually a “Cave” in any traditional sense, but thanks to dense foliage and a jungle-like terrace the Restaurant at Calle 38 and Quinta Avenida maintains an air of seclusion despite being packed with tourists.
Open from Breakfast to Dinner and all-inclusive, options for kids available alongside Vegan or Vegetarian Fare, it is with two decades of history that guests are welcomed beginning at 8am daily, locally grown Coffee still worthwhile at 87ᵒF with high humidity, though the fact a Woman serving Conchas ignored the rear seating area was disappointing.
Surrounded by the sounds of Birds and flowing water, plus strategically positioned fans, it is after perusing several menu pages that decisions are made, the Empanadas with three different fillings all basic but enjoyable while Chilaquiles offered with choice of Sauce see housemade Tortilla Chips stand up nicely against Eggs, Vegetables, Cheese and Sour Cream.
White Chocolate Saffron Madeline, Dark Chocolate Saffron Madeline, Amaranth and Red Fruit Bon Bon, Strawberry Mint Pate de Fruit, Ruby Chocolate Chambord Truffle
Alfajor
The crown jewel of Hotel Xcaret’s culinary collection, Restaurante HA’ features the talents of Carlos Gaytán, and although he will forever remain the first Mexican Chef to receive a Michelin Star for his “Mexique” in Chicago it is with all the trappings of a luxury resort that HA’ aims to achieve so much more.
Defined as “Water” in the Mayan language, a sense of flow established on arrival and continuing through an immersive space surrounding a cylindrical glass fountain, guests are seated on plush banquettes abutting crisp linens, the service gratuitously pleasant such that no want or need goes unfulfilled.
Not included in Hotel Xcaret’s all-inclusive package, and open to the public via reservation only, HA’ suggests a seven-course menu complete with Wine or non-alcoholic pairings, an opening volley of Lemongrass and Lime afloat on Aloe refreshing the palate alongside raw Hamachi and a flash-fried Artichoke Amuse.
Combining French technique and the finest ingredients with Mexican Sauces and Spices, while many courses also implement elements of modernism, Venison Tartare makes a grand entrance thanks to scoops of Liquid Nitrogen-frozen Huitlacoche before dissolving into a kaleidoscope of flavors, the King Crab to follow equally mesmerizing thanks to fresh Peas and Salmon Roe dancing around delicate Panna Cotta.
Indifferent to the pairings, both versions a bit steep in comparison to Haute Cuisine that outpaces HA’s price point, course three arrives as confit Duck tucked in a small package surrounded by superlative Pipian plus a hint of mint while the Yucatan’s love of grilling sees a floret of Cauliflower complimented by Coriander and preserved Black Truffles.
Served at a pace customized to each table’s preference, neither to brisk nor lingering, sweeter Beverages begin to arrive as plates grow more rich, Chef Gaytan’s Mi Cuit Foie Gras with Red Fruit Mole as good as one will find anywhere in Paris before Al Pastor arrives in a deconstructed but entirely delicious form.
Blessed by unrivaled access to Ingredients, plus ideas cultivated across Mexico’s rich history, Dessert sees traditional Chilate matched to a textbook Marquesita enlivened by Truffle Foam prior to Coconut Milk Horchata accompanying a Mascarpone Meringue spiral atop Pear Ribbons and Charcoal Ice Cream.
Charged extra for Espresso, bold Beans from Chiapas sipped slowly over Ice with Mignardises including distinctive Bon Bons and Truffles, it is after settling the bill that guests are sent on their way with pleasantries and a signed menu, plus a boxed a boxed Alfajor and a new understanding of modern Mexican Cuisine.
Although there are an abundance of Taquerias and Street Vendors in Playa del Carmen few are so well regarded as Ah Carbon!, a shaded open air shop at Calle 22 Norte just a few blocks from the beach.
Family friendly with credit cards accepted, the open grill hissing as Al Pastor spins adjacent fire, it is from a concise menu that guests are invited to make choices, a duo of housemade Salsas arriving first to spice things up alongside Limes and chopped Jicama.
Known for grilled Meats, Al Pastor on warm Tortillas with a slice of Pineapple arguably the best in Quintana Roo, fans of Chorizo should also take notice as Ah Carbon! serves a superlative version with plenty of heat and porky sapor beneath a pile of fresh Tortillas for just 115 pesos.
Owned by a German ex-pat named Anja, Das Brot occupies a small plaza on 8th Street between 20th and 25th Avenues, the validity of claims that this is one of Playa del Carmen’s best Bakeries largely dependent on expectations and guest’s prior experience.
Translated literally as “Bread,” Loaves and Pastries offered from 8:30am Monday through Saturday, it is adjacent shelves of housemade Jams that diners will find nearly two-dozen choices, prices higher than traditional Panaderia though certainly far less than what one might spend in Frankfurt.
Formerly sold in local Markets, but now available not far from the tourist corridor, it was back at the hotel that four items were unwrapped for tasting, first bites of a Cinnamon Roll decidedly dry save for the center while Carrot Cake lacks spice or sweetness save for the Frosting.
Hoping for better from Apple Strudel, a benchmark for any German Baker, Das Brot sees its Pastry compromised by a lack of flakiness despite enjoyable Cinnamon Apples while the Flourless Chocolate Cake is actually quite good and clearly made with good Chocolate despite costing only 50 pesos for a hefty slice.
Located on 38th Street, not far from the beach, La Perla Pixan Cuisine & Mezcal Store ignores Playa del Carmen’s push towards progressive Mexican fare by looking back at traditional dishes cooked from scratch with classic technique.
Open from Breakfast to Dinner daily, the open air and smoking copal best enjoyed before or after midday’s peak sun, it is beneath umbrellas or a thatched roof that guests are offered seating, the clientele surprisingly local and service pleasant yet professional.
Offering a limited menu in the morning, though Pulque and Mezcal are ready to pour by 7:30am, it is with complimentary housemade Tortilla Chips that meals get started, both Salsas spicy in comparison to most though the creamy Green one is particularly *hot.*
Quiet early, but bustling with live music by evening, it was after ten minutes that two plates arrived simultaneously, the Chilaquiles with seared Beef and almost Dessert-like Mole maintain great texture despite Crema and Cheese while Vegetarian Emmoladas will see many sweating where they sit thanks to a complex Sauce that starts herbaceous before drifting bitter and finishing smooth despite the Guajillo’s slow-burn.
Offering a concise menu from 7:00am until 10:00pm daily, Carlota Home Bakery has gained notoriety amongst tourists for quick service and accessible options, an early stop on Tuesday neither bad nor particularly memorable save for the fact that prices trend higher than Playa del Carmen’s more traditional Bakeries.
Small in size, a half dozen tables bridging interior to patio, it was after being informed that menu items are only offered for dine-in that seats were taken, Pastries such as the Cinnamon Roll and Carrot Cake unremarkable while layered Corn Cake and delicate Alfajores fared better.
Waiting nearly fifteen minutes for the rest, a Ham and Cheese Croissant laughably small and the Viennoiserie no better than pre-frozen, Carlota’s Frappuccino was mostly froth and Ice Cubes while the Avocado Toast was stingy in its toppings but clever in terms of the “Toad in the Hole” plating.
Warm Dark Chocolate Cake, Salted Caramel Ice Cream
Strawberry and Hibiscus Tamale, Vanilla Cream, Preserved Berries
Spanish for “cousin,” most Mexicans will say Primo means much more, and in that vein Chef Pedro Abascal designed his Restaurant at the corner of 10th Avenue and 14th Street as a place where guests could feel like they were dining at home.
Not far from the bustle of Quinta Avenida, though in reality far more Tulum than Playa del Carmen, it is from an open air kitchen that Chefs Abascal and Roberto Martinez create bold plates utilizing local Ingredients, the majority kissed by flame or smoked in a Big Green Egg while others are buried and cooked in a pit oven in the style of Barbacoa.
Dinner only and subject to the elements, both weather and vagrants lingering near, it is while decisions are made that diners are offered Peanuts, a seemingly odd choice but thankfully one that prevents diners from filling up before the arrival of vibrant Guacamole served alongside freshly-fried Tostada.
Well priced for large portions, five U-10 Shrimp for less than $16USD served with a bit of char in Salsa, it was in place of sold-out Bone Marrow that a daily special of Brisket was served, 24-hours of low heat yielding tender flesh that stands up well to Ginger and herbaceous Recaudo.
Easily sold on a half-Duck tenderized by acid before Roasting, the blend of smoke and Citrus deeply penetrating medium-crisp Skin, it was on the recommendation of a tattooed server that Suckling Pig Terrine was also ordered, its texture perfectly suited to be eaten on its own or atop hand-pressed Tortillas.
Low enough volume to carry on a conversation, though music helps subdue street noise, Dessert sees Chocolate from Oaxaca used to create a molten Cake Michel Bras would be proud of, while the seasonal Strawberry and Hibiscus Tamale sends taste buds reeling with a diversity of tastes, temperatures and textures.
