Stella West Hollywood
Panzanella Estivia – persimmon, heirloom tomato, Lambrusco, sheep ricotta
Carpaccio di Manzo – Wagyu tongue, scallion pistachio salsa verde, saba
Su Filindeu – roasted bone brodo with pecorino primo sale & lamb neck
Orecchiette – pistacchio pesto, Brentwood corn, fresh pecorino cheese
Bigoli – octopus & ‘nduja ragù, peperoncini, basil, wild fennel pollen
Mortadella di pistacchi pizza – stracciatella cheese, pistacchio pesto, basil
Fresh Corn Polenta
Chanterelles & Ragu Bianco
Polipo – spanish octopus, ‘nduja, pistacchio verde, warm butter
Cassata Siciliana – Sicilian pistachio, chocolate, & ricotta cake
Sfogliatella – Raspberry & crema diplomática, mint
Linzer
A collaboration between restaurateur Janet Zuccarini and Chef Rob Gentile, Stella occupies rarified real estate in West Hollywood and makes good use of it with traditional recipes bolstered by California’s bounty and a “scene to be seen” atmosphere.
Spread across several rooms and two stories, all of it twice as loud as necessary per Los Angeles standards, it is from the lounge that guests are led through a space intended to maximize capacity while at the same time maintaining Art Deco flair and old time elegance.
Housing an open kitchen downstairs, live fire stretching back to a Pasta room like that at Felix, guests are encouraged to begin with pricey Crudo or imported Cheese unnecessarily topped by Caviar while those who know a gimmick when they see it will instead opt for seasonal Salads like Panzanella Estivia or faultless Beef Tongue with assertive green Salsa and Saba.
Already the recipient of praise for a $59 bowl of “the world’s rarest Pasta,” think thin noodles in Bone Broth with tender Lamb and Cheese, Bigoli is a better bet thanks to Octopus and Calabrian Sausage while Orecchiette with local Corn outpaces “Fresh Corn Polenta” that falls somewhere between Cornmeal and Kernels from a can.
Performing well in terms of service, everyone professional but not lacking for personality, Mushrooms in White Wine hardly justify $29 while the $50 “half” Octopus finds four stingy tentacles and the third of five Pistachio dishes ordered without even noticing.
More impressed by a $34 Roman Pizza, Mortadella di pistacchi offering a crisp base with just enough flex beneath Stracciatella, the only real justified “must order” at Stella is their $39 Cassata Sicilliana featuring Ricotta, more Pistachios and Chocolate and even this is outpaced by a textbook Sfogliatella at less than half the cost.
www.stellawesthollywood.com
