Subject to somewhat polarizing social media reviews, it was shortly after 11:00am that three guests entered Tallula’s Restaurant, the beachside space from Rustic Canyon owners Zoe Nathan and Josh Loeb remaining almost entirely empty otherwise throughout the course of a ninety minute Saturday Brunch.
One part seaside shanty, the other an ode to Mexican staples “hecho con amor,” it is amidst colorful wood columns and mosaic carpets bathed in sunlight that guests are seated promptly, the music culturally appropriate and played far lower than what seems to be ‘normal’ in Southern California.
Tapping Jeremy Fox for a menu executed by Chef Saw Naing, the midday spread offered until September 1st replacing dinner Entrees with items such as Pancakes and Chilaquiles, it is from cheerful servers that suggestions come readily, complimentary Chips and Salsa soon attesting to bold flavors and quality Ingredients reflected by sometimes questionable prices.
Assuredly an expensive build-out, its spacious location alongside the Pacific Coast Highway en route to Malibu a far cry from Taco Trucks in Boyle Heights, it was after declining Margaritas in favor of Soft Drinks that a plate of Nachos arrived quickly, the combination of crisp Tortillas and housemade Giardiniera strongly adherent to porcelain thanks to “lots of Cheese” while Chilaquiles offered even greater textural diversity thanks to Black Beans, sliced Vegetables and an Egg cooked Sunnyside Up.
Surprised next by Chicharrones, three enormous Pig Skins shattering beneath spice and Citrus, it was only Tallula’s Tacos that seemed substantially overpriced compared to elsewhere, $9 per two-bites of fairly basic Carne Asada indefensible no matter how good the handmade shells or how exorbitant Nathan and Loeb’s rent.
Back on track with Taquitos, a trio of fried Shells filled with fragrant Potatoes bolstered by Caramelized Onions and tangy Sauce, it was making a quick transition to Dessert that Tallula’s Tres Leches immediately set a high standard, its light floral linger unexpected but welcomed while bite-size Churros and a Cornbread-like skillet Pancake were also quite pleasant save for the latter’s questionable $16 price.
Housemade Granola, Coconut Panna Cotta, Pears, Coconut Milk
Brioche French Toast, Banana, Candied Pecans, Powdered Sugar, Orange Zest, 100% Pure Maple Syrup
Serving El Segundo since 2017, and soon expanding to downtown Los Angeles, it was largely based on location that Two Guns Kitchen was selected for Breakfast on Saturday, a decision unfortunately shared by several families with young children whose non-stop noise echoed about the small space along with off-key singing by a barista who apparently thought he was funny.
Born out of New Zealand Coffee culture in 2011, a pair of expatriates beginning Two Guns Espresso and since expanding to five Cafes plus the Kitchen concept, it is along Main Street that guests will find the latter open early each day, all but high-top seating filled by 7:30 as music from the 80s and 90s played loudly overhead.
Proudly displaying the names of purveyors like Ora King Salmon on a hanging menu, and baking all Pastries on-site, it was with one Latte and a Cold Brew in hand that guests waited patiently for items from the kitchen, the Coffee admittedly excellent with minimal acidity and bright fruitiness while a buttery Muffin was also remarkable thanks to pockets of Golden Raisins juxtaposing cooked Plums.
Less impressed by an Almond Croissant with overly-sweet Cream, and indifferent to a “Cinnamon Roll” that begged for more of its eponymous Ingredient, it was after adding Coconut Milk that had originally been forgotten that Granola became more edible, four small dollops of “Panna Cotta” seemingly just for show while $7.75 French Toast was a certified deal in So Cal, though fairly basic and not something worth going out of one’s way for.
Fresas Con Nata, Harry’s Berries, Sorbet, Strawberry Consomme, White Chocolate
‘Tropic’ of Pineapple, Zucchini Bread
Cheesecake Bomb, Dried Flowers
Mochi, Blueberries
Double Espresso, Ice
Xuixo with Cinnamon, Dark Chocolate Mousse
Happy to acknowledge Jose Andres’ contributions to humanity, though less impressed by his Cuisine and commitment to customers across several meals, it is from ThinkFoodGroup collaborator Aitor Zabala that Somni sees modernism still relevant inside the SLS Hotel, two Michelin Stars and a top five ranking by OAD proving justified even when accounting for the $350 price point.
As much theater as a meal, Chef Zabala’s experience at El Bulli, Arzak and Akelarre gifting he and his kitchen staff of twelve with a good sense of how to use modified textures without compromising ingredients, it is immediately upon entering the Beverly Hills hotel that guests are led to a small waiting area, complimentary Bubbles offered along with options for Wine Pairings ranging $150-$500.
Forgoing Alcohol henceforth, though the “Unique” pairing ordered by a tablemate seemed fair priced thanks to the Sommelier repeatedly topping off near-empty glasses, it was following Snacks highlighted by liquefied Almonds inside a delicate Shell that guests transitioned to Somni’s dining room, the Bar built from a single tree truly gorgeous though the eye is otherwise drawn to a kitchen that stretches back at least fifty feet.
Serving just ten guests per seating, the experience lasting approximately 150-minutes and comprised of twenty eight items, it was after a brief introduction that dining began in earnest, a smoky frozen Cocktail quickly consumed as staff arranged four service pieces soon featuring airy Blueberry Meringues, Chicken Skin piped with Foie Blonde, re-imagined Panellets made with puffed Rice and bloomy Mushroom Chips.
Next highlighting ‘mg’ with Margherita Pizza, a rapidly-dissolving ‘crust’ beneath crushed Tomatoes and creamy Mousse recreating the flavor of Naples at less than an eighth the heft, it was with no trickery involved that Caviar atop Tuna Belly and Marrow delivered unmitigated richness, the follow-up “Aguachile” another fun idea, though perhaps the only time all night that a more classic presentation would have been preferred.
Again offering uncompromised ingredients in the form of a peerless Spot Prawn, and following it with a single Shiso Leaf packed with raw Beef painted in Tempura, it was after an umami-rich Ensaimada that another edible Cocktail freshened the palate before proceeding to Gazpacho brightened by Horseradish.
Taking no shortcuts with a “Croissant” made from spiraled Potatoes, the exterior shattering and interior pliable with a flavor not far from French Fries, it was inside a Kohlrabi bowl that Peas infused with Truffles shined, its bold aromatics carrying over into “Sun and Shadow” with a generous amount of Dungeness Crab soon afloat in Peanut Sauce and Coconut Foam.
Truly global in its references, a Teriyaki-glazed “Rib” of Turbot aged for five days fusing Spain and Japan into the meal’s most memorable plate, it was after dipping a Pork Bun into Red Curry that the night’s final savory arrived, the Pork with crispy Skin delicious on its own but all the more so when dragged through Corn Smut and Sauce built from Enrique Olvera’s Mole Madre.
Bridging to Dessert by way of Cheese, a Cow-shaped Wafer hiding Gorgonzola and Apples, it was thanks to Harry’s Berries that Strawberries and Cream showed beautifully while “Tropic” and “Cheesecake Bomb” both outperformed a Mochi Dumpling that tasted mostly bland save for hint of Blueberry.
Offered complimentary Coffee to finish, the night’s menu and a list of staff delivered like a play bill alongside deep fried Dough shellacked with Cinnamon and filled with Chocolate, it was with bill pre-paid by TOCK that guests took their leave, a final goodbye offered by one of the Chefs at the SLS main door.
Apple Fritter – Granny Smith Apples, Apple Cider Glaze
Smoked Chocolate & Pretzel Doughnut – Dark Chocolate Cake, Smoked Dark Chocolate & Pretzel Glaze, Maldon Sea Salt
Self-described as “The World’s Freshest Doughnuts,” and personally felt to be the Nation’s premier purveyor of fried Dough ever since stumbling across the Costa Mesa flagship in 2013, it was via special delivery that Sidecar Doughnuts & Coffee once again impressed on Friday, a little in-transit damage doing nothing to compromise the taste of unparalleled Ingredients and smartly developed recipes.
Currently location two of three, 631 Wilshire Boulevard not only near Santa Monica’s Farmers Market but also a clientele capable of paying upwards of $5 for something many associate with an on-the-go bite sold for less than a buck by Dunkin, it was mostly from monthly specials that a half-dozen were selected, the Blueberries & Champagne becoming quite messy by the time it was consumed though the combination of fresh Fruit and Cheesecake inside Brioche still retained excellent texture with no two bites the same.
Moving next to a classic, Sidecar’s Old Fashion a good rendition that falls just short of Blue Star in terms of suppleness while winning by way of aromatics, it is atop moist Cake that August visitors will find the flavor of fresh Peaches bolstered by Sage, a roll in housemade toasted Oats adding complexity much like melted hand-made Sprinkles do to recurring favorite Birthday Cake.
Finally in-town for “Fritter Friday,” the fact that Sidecar’s $4 iteration lacks characteristic lumps in favor of folded Pastry amplifying the flavor of tart Fruit and thick Glaze atop a Grease-free base, it was saving Chocolate for last that the “Smoked Chocolate & Pretzel Doughnut” tasted predictably decadent, though a touch of Salt both in Glaze and Cake helped keep things from becoming too rich.
Montanara Fried and Baked Pizza – Tomato, Smoked Mozzarella, Basil
Spaghetti al Pomodoro – Homemade Spaghetti, Tomato, Basil
Recently opened in Hollywood, L’Antica Pizzeria da Michele promises Angelinos an authentic taste of Italy, and although naysayers have claimed the seasonal menu steps away from traditions begun in 1870 the simple fact is that the Ingredient quality is high and so is the overall production value.
Inspired by Italian courtyards and bolstered by the bounty of California, Pizzaiolo Michele Rubini visibly working Dough behind glass amid a space surrounded by trees, it is inside the former Café Des Artistes that guests will find the concept backed by Francesco Zimone, the film-finance-pro-turned-restaurateur also present to greet a nearly full house on Friday afternoon.
Assuredly an expensive build-out, beginning in a comfortable foyer and continuing through the bar leading outside, it is from a fairly straight-forward menu that diners are invited to choose familiar favorites, Pizzas predictably front and center with Aperitivo, Verdure and more to follow.
Made famous by the book “Eat Pray Love,” a fact unknown to this diner until moments before booking, it was not long after seating that a youthful waiter stopped by to fill Water and take orders, noon arrival assuring minimal delay from the kitchen and L’Antica’s Bianca served within ten minutes as a thick layer of imported Cheese atop lightly blistered Crust still floppy at the center with a moderate degree of blister.
A bit let down by the cornicione, either a lack of leavening or too hot an oven preventing the rise seen in Neapolitan Pies served elsewhere, it was with one Slice remaining that a $22 Montanara was delivered, the frying even and subtle despite failing to yield the same crispness as New York’s Don Antonio while a simple plate of Spaghetti was almost *too* al dente beneath hand-crushed imported Tomatoes without a lot of Herbs save for a single whole Basil Leaf.
Owned by Lydia Shane since the early 2000’s it seems as though many still have not heard of DeLuscious Cookies & Milk, its location on the second floor of what looks like an office building undoubtedly part of the reason as both Ingredients and innovation set a high standard even amidst growing competition.
Beginning as a delivery-only concept, the bulk of business still via online ordering and pick-up or send-out from 829 North Highland Avenue, it is after climbing a flight of stairs that guests will find bakers hard at work, the “front of house” seemingly not used to on-site sales but happy to make recommendations from a list of classics and seasonally variable specials.
Certainly not an everyday indulgence, though the $4 per item cost is not far from that of other Los Angeles artisan bakeshops, it was in exchange for $20.50 that five items were taken elsewhere to enjoy, first bites of the carefully wrapped Cinnamon Brulee Cookie finding rim crisp and center soft with the familiar flavor of a Snickerdoodle dialed up a few notches by gooey puddles presumably made of melted Streusel.
Onward next to Chocolate Chip, the Cocoa-riddled structure similar to its predecessor though no two bites are similar thanks to three types of Belgian Chocolate, it was with more density that Peanut Butter next delivered expected flavors, though unlike so many others DeLuscious’ version adds un-ground Nuts prior to baking for less sweetness and more texture.
Rounding out Cookies with Oatmeal Raisin, a preponderance of dried Fruit nicely balanced by bold Baking Spices, it was in ‘grand finale’ fashion that DeLuscious wowed with a Butterscotch Blondie, the texture almost that of Gooey Butter Cake but the tang of Cream Cheese replaced by caramelized Brown Sugar and Molasses.
Remember that great article about female Bakers in the LATimes late-July? Well, on Sunday one of the featured businesses closed for lack of business, and only Los Angeles is to blame as Chef Nicole Rucker’s collection of Pies and Pastries at Fiona was nothing short of exemplary as tasted just minutes after opening on Friday morning.
A part of Fairfax for just nine months, rumors of an expensive build-out and fair-to-middling savories from collaborator Shawn Pham speculated as part of the Restaurant’s failure, it was thankfully with a trip planned weeks in advance that three guests entered Fiona to find shelves fully stocked, the tally of $105 after tax and tip yielding a Baker’s dozen choices served amidst comfortable environs.
Once described as a dream come true for Rucker, years baking for others including Travis Lett and James Starr finally yielding a home of her own, it was surrounded by artwork from the Chef that first bites of housemade Sesame Bread were taken, first baked with Almond Cream atop Strawberries and then beneath two types of Sesame Butter plus local Honey and crystals of Sea Salt.
Continuing with Cookies, both Chocolate Chip and Oatmeal Raisin well-crafted without being revelatory, it was here that Chef Rucker’s Buttermilk Biscuit proved a game-changer, its taste that of pure Butter while the texture tiptoed a fine line between Cake-like and flakey.
Further impressed by two types of Pancake, though the $9 tab for mixed Grains and Flax likely raised an occasional eyebrow even in Hollywood, suffice it to say any Bakery culturing its own Butter is cutting no corners while Chef Pham’s lightly-fried Chicken Thigh beneath Caramel Glaze also fared quite nicely atop a fluffy Potato Bun with added intrigue from spicy Pickles.
Next finding Nicole’s Blueberry Scone a lot like her Biscuits, un-British but exquisite, it was at $7 per slice that four styles of Pie each set a high standard, Key Lime featured in the new cookbook “Dappled” undeniably the best of its kind in terms of taste and texture while tangy Lemon Chess and fresh Blueberry with Crumble were also enjoyable despite quickly being lost in the wake of what can best be described as a barely-set Fudge Brownie supported by a robust all-Butter Crust.
Baked Carrot Cake Doughnut with Cream Cheese Frosting
Opened in Glendora mid-2017, with ownership raised on The Donut Man but aspiring for something more, Rad Doughnuts brings artisan Ingredients as well as ideology east of Los Angeles at a price less than half what one might expect to spend at Sidecar or Blue Star.
Located at 1418 South Grand Avenue, approximately forty minutes from downtown depending on traffic, it was shortly after 6:30am that racks were found full of fresh-made Doughnuts, a combination of baked and fried rings ranging from just $1.50 for the glazed “OG” to $3 for Bacon and Pure Maple Syrup.
Made daily from entirely non-GMO natural Ingredients, the owner a pleasant young woman who has clearly done her research, it was after perusing options that a total of eight were selected for on-site consumption, first bites of an airy round covered in shiny Ganache immediately attesting to ideal frying times while the best-selling Zucchini Olive Oil ate more like Quick Bread than Doughnut, though considering the moist texture and bright aromatics that is certainly not a bad thing.
Onward next to Old Fashioned Doughnuts, light tanginess and hints of Nutmeg found amidst a medium-dense crumb, one would be challenged to name more natural tasting Fruit Glaze than Rad’s Lemon or Strawberry, while Birthday Cake and Churro both also did an admirable job of replicating the flavor of their respective namesakes.
Offered a complimentary special for sticking around, and opting to save it for last, it was in the spirit of a Blueberry Muffin imbued with Citrus that another baked Doughnut attempted to steal the spotlight, but given a predilection for Cinnamon Crumb topping the best bites were indeed Streusel atop fried Flour, Eggs and Sour Cream, though not far behind was nutty Spice Cake loaded with shredded Carrots and topped in delicate Cream Cheese Frosting.
Bourbon Fudge Brownie, Brown Butter Bacon Ice Cream
Glazed Donut Bread Pudding, Three Rum Caramel, Vanilla Crème Anglaise
There is no denying Downtown Las Vegas has developed tremendously over the past five years, from East Fremont to The Arts District, and although competition is now tougher than ever Carson Kitchen continues to pack the house from open to close as a result of good Food, delicious Drinks, great service and fair prices.
Nothing less than iconic entering its sixth year, a milestone reached by less than a quarter of Restaurants nationwide (and likely far less in Sin City,) it was impromptu that four guests stopped in at 7:30pm, greetings at the hostess podium yielding unclaimed seats near the window where a young man named Roman offered excellent recommendations as well as descriptions for guests who jokingly claimed to be first-timers.
Obviously far from the truth in terms of patronage, this visit actually number seventeen including every menu since Summer of 2015, it was after listening to stories of “founders” Cory Harwell and Kerry Simon that four Cocktails arrived, Matthew Harwell’s creativity continuing to impress from Sangria to Tricky Vic and Get Shorty!, though much like day one The Magarian remains unsurpassed thanks to an herbaceous top-note lifted by restrained sweetness and effervescence.
Ordering a la carte from Carson Kitchen’s current “Greatest Hits” menu, a celebration of the Restaurant’s past as well as the upcoming expansion, it was opting for dishes not tasted in some time that “Devil’s Eggs” arrived quickly, the request from a woman who “never thought I’d like Caviar” attesting to Cory’s longtime goal of making esoteric Ingredients accessible to those who may not have previously known any better.
Next up, Fried Green Tomatoes, a dish concocted by Georgia-born Harwell and carefully prepared by Chef Scott Simon, it was beneath tangy Crab Meat that all three rounds delighted guests before transitioning to “Gyro Tacos” and charred Edamame that both also shine thanks to complex spices and a touch of acid.
Continuing with Tempura-battered Green Beans, the more-sweet-than-spicy Cream Cheese another southern staple, it was after hearing a story about a former Chef nixing “Killer Shrimp” that the dish was revisited after sixteen months, its textural comparison to Chinese Walnut Prawns undeniable though the use of Peruvian Peppers give each bite subtle yet sustaining fire.
Revisiting Oxtail Risotto for the first time in three years, and vowing to never go so long again after one bite of creamy Rice and Cheese, it was “Between Bread” that entrees were offered, the Secret Sunday Chicken recently featured on bestofvegas predictably outstanding while the Butter Burger cooked medium-rare and Wild Boar Sloppy Joe are both crafted with an eye on balance in terms of taste as well as texture.
A bit overwhelmed by three cones of Tots, a doggy bag trip to the oven doing little to dampen their crunchy appeal, it was with Iced Tea in hand and The National playing overhead that Dessert was ordered, Peach Cake with Mascarpone proving super for summer while Donut Bread Pudding bathed in Rum and Bourbon Brownies with housemade Brown Butter Bacon Ice Cream remain every bit the delight they were when first debuted 61 months prior.
FIVE STARS: Poised for expansion five years after making downtown Las Vegas a dining destination, Carson Kitchen’s Summer menu takes a look back at some of Kerry, Cory as well as Matthew’s greatest recipes and brings back fond memories for many while re-introducing the ideas that got them there to others.
RECOMMENDED: The Magarian, Tricky Vic, Fried Green Tomatoes, Tempura Green Beans, Killer Shrimp, Secret Sunday Chicken, Wild Boar Sloppy Joe, Peach Upside-Down Cake, Bourbon Fudge Brownie.
AVOID: N/A.
TIP: Greatest Hits will be available through October, 11:30a-10:00p Sunday through Thursday and till 11:00pm on Friday as well as Saturday.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Fried Green Tomato – Poached Eggs, Sliced Avocado, Greens, Hollandaise, English Muffin
Crab Omelet – Spinach-Artichoke Cream Cheese, King Crab, House Potatoes, Challah Toast
Huevos Rancheros – Sunny Side Up Eggs, Tortillas, Red Sauce, Cotija Cheese, Avocado Crema, Black Beans
Steak & Eggs – Sunny Side Up Eggs, Chimichurri, Black Beans, Greens, Tortillas on the side
Though dining in the southeast remains somewhat dull after dark there is no question that the area’s Brunch scene is booming, Water Street’s Hardway 8 recently joining the likes of CRAFTkitchen while Truffles N Bacon Café now shares a complex with The Coffee Class, but since July of 2018 the area’s most creative morning plates have consistently come from The Stove at 11261 South Eastern Avenue.
A product of Established Culinary Management, or in other words the brainchild of Chefs Antonio Nunez and Scott Commings, it is on the second floor of a building with Las Vegas Boulevard views that guests will find Breakfast as well as Brunch daily, recently-promoted GM Summer Gates leading a youthful staff that offers an ideal blend of friendliness and professionalism.
Well appointed and still full of whimsy, though gimmicks such as a selfie-booth and “Twisted” Tea Room were smartly abandoned in favor of a focus on seasonality and customer service, guests will find comfort regardless of which room they are seated, while a recently updated menu features several new dishes alongside best-sellers ranging from simple Bacon and Eggs to Foie Gras atop Waffles.
Opting for a booth on the left-side looking in, at most times quieter than the primary dining room and even more so at 1:15pm, it was as a party of four that Breakfast began with Coffee, Cocktails and Pastries, the latter offered on a three-tier tower and highlighted by soft-centered Chocolate Chip Cookies plus fluffy Muffins given a touch of color amidst plenty of Blueberries and Butter.
Visiting the Restaurant for the first time with neither Scott nor Antonio present, a honey-soaked Salad of Peaches enjoyable despite sorely lacking for Nuts or Cheese compared to what @thestovelv shared on Social Media, it was on request that Empanadas were delivered in follow-up, the Short Rib expectedly tender and standing up nicely to two types of Chiles inside golden Pastry.
Henceforth focused on new items, though passing on Pecan Pie Pancakes is admittedly ill-advised, it was with serviceware re-set that grilled Bread Pudding arrived quickly, its intense sweetness likely to be polarizing amidst complex textures while an all new Sandwich from the “Lunch” section tantalizes taste buds thanks to Confit Duck Meat paired with Gruyere, Onions and housemade Orange Marmalade.
Globally influenced from Croque Madame to Vegan Tacos, a roadtrip south yielding Fried Green Tomatoes made into a Benedict with Eggs and Avocado, it is tapping Americanized Chinese that a King Crab Omelet reminisces of Crab Rangoon thanks to herbaceous Cream Cheese while included house Potatoes set a high standard by seemingly being fried, smashed, seasoned and fried again.
Finishing up savory, a plate of Huevos Rancheros from the acting Chef de Cuisine impressing with its slow-burn and cream-less Avocado “Crema,” fans of Steak & Eggs should not pass on The Stove’s cooked-to-order version brightened by house Chimichurri and usually served with Tortillas that were apparently forgotten on this particular afternoon.
FOUR AND A HALF STARS: Recently celebrating one year since opening, the new menu from Chefs Commings and Nunez continues to push the envelope in terms of creativity thanks to some innovative dishes while still executing basics like Breakfast Potatoes and poached Eggs with finesse. Not a flawless visit, though flavors and Ingredients are still exemplary, owners need to be sure both food and service remain up to standard when key personnel enjoy a deserved day off.
AVOID: The Blueberry Sugar Cookie would be better without as many Sugar Crystals and the Peach Salad definitely would have fared better with more Cheese and/or Nuts.
TIP: 7a-3p Monday through Thursday and until four o’clock Friday, Saturday and Sunday. Those wishing to avoid a wait should show up before 9:30am, after 1:00pm or check-in by phone or online using TablesReady.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Smoked Salmon Toast, Dill Cream Cheese, Capers, Red Onions
For residents west of Las Vegas Boulevard it has been some time since the local Breakfast scene featured any exciting developments, Rosallie on South Rainbow and Lulu’s up north consistently the best options going on four years, while inhabitants of Henderson and nearby recently saw mornings grow even stronger thanks to The Coffee Class at 8878 South Eastern Avenue.
Open for just one week, a local real estate agent with a passion for Coffee opting to set up shop in the same complex as Truffles N Bacon Café, it is in consultation with Chef Beth Ryan-Small that the cozy yet upscale space seeks to give guests an all-day experience, the current soft-opening largely focused on Breakfast-y items but soon to feature everything from Paninis to plated Desserts.
Built on the premise of exposing locals to single origin Beans and “extraordinary service,” the latter as yet far from reality as a youthful staff bumbles around the counter before aimlessly shouting the names of guests who have frequently been waiting more than fifteen minutes for uncomplicated Beverages, it is thankfully in comfortable seats that patrons wait patiently as light music and complimentary Wi-Fi provide entertainment.
Sleek and sparse in terms of decoration, comparisons to Ryan-Smalls previous employers at Mothership Coffee Roasters impossible to avoid in terms of décor, it is fortunate that The Coffee Class’ Food already sets a high-standard, Beth’s best-in-Las Vegas Scones yet again a highlight thanks to seasonal Strawberry Balsamic Jam and lots of Butter.
Eventually forgoing Coffee due to excessive wait times and unapologetic forgetfulness, ready-made Nitro Chai prepared Vegan instead offering bold aromatics amidst a creamy background, it was in follow-up to the Scone that Beth once again impressed with Cookies and Muffins, the former with varying sizes of Chocolate and Butterscotch a textural masterpiece while the combination of caramelized Pineapple and Carrots with toasted Coconut should also not be missed.
Performing better than many with an Almond Croissant, housemade Cream-filling leagues better than cloying Frangipane, it is for $7 that guests are sold three Biscuits with a platter of accoutrements, the price similar to Yardbird’s cost for four questionable though the lamination and bright flavor of Buttermilk match their high standard even prior to the addition of Preserved Fruit, Jam or Orange Blossom Butter.
Treated to a cup of Mixed Nuts, blended Herbs and Simple Syrup creating a sweet and savory flavor that goes well with anything, it was straight from the oven that The Coffee Class’ French Toast offered “destination-worthy” decadence, the Crème Brulee base thoroughly saturating buttery Brioche just as Yogurt does Chia Seeds in a Parfait comprised of Strawberries and housemade Granola.
Now steering savory, a trio of Toasts most noteworthy for “Elevated Egg Salad” that uses a pinch of Dijon to accent Heirloom Tomatoes and Pickled Red Onions, it is by way of light heat and briny Bacon that ubiquitous Avocado Toast also fares well while smoked Salmon with all the expected additions will not disappoint fans of Lox on their Bagel.
Rounding out the morning with a $9 Quiche and $12 Galette, both offered with organic Produce slicked in vibrant Vinaigrette, suffice it to say that those dissuaded by Onion should leave the latter for guests who love bold flavors while the Quiche offered in three varieties is baked-to-order and absolutely delicious from golden Crust to fluffy center.
THREE AND A HALF STARS: Open for less than a week, and still **VERY** green in terms of service, The Coffee Class is nonetheless ready to wow with sweets and savories from Chef Beth Ryan-Small. Still in soft-opening mode, with Sandwiches, Desserts and more Coffees to come, this place has the potential to be great but for now needs to focus on expediting and systems to make sure orders come out both correct and on time.
RECOMMENDED: Strawberry Balsamic Scone, Roasted Pineapple and Carrot Muffin with Toasted Coconut, Salty Butterscotch Chocolate Chip Cookie, Homemade Biscuits, Orange Blossom Crème Brulee Oven Baked French Toast, Ham and Gruyere Cheese Quiche, Elevated Egg Salad Toast.
AVOID: Apparently Coffee. Having witnessed no less than three drinks circle the room unclaimed, in addition to at least two items shouted *loudly* for a missing “Raoul,” it also took a staff of seven twenty minutes, a reminder and two tries to get a tablemate’s Macchiato right.
TIP: 7a-8p Sunday through Thursday and until 9pm Friday and Saturday.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Fortunate to have two compelling lunches in one week, it was once again Esther’s Kitchen that was called upon to #supportlocal, Sous Chef Ashley Nichole Winkelman predictably representing James Trees’ Restaurant wonderfully from arrival to clean up.
Already an office favorite, an April visit from Ashley and members of since-opened Ada’s at Tivoli Village setting an impossibly high standard for every caterer to follow, it was after taking time to set-up everything including porcelain plates and silverware that guests dove in immediately, a Chopped Salad with “All The Things” still winning over all but one worker who does not eat Pork while two styles of Pizza performed far better than previous, in particular one with Corn that harkens Elotes thanks to silky Corn Pudding and smoky Scamorza.
Offering Esther’s house Polenta without Mushrooms this time, less depth of flavor doing nothing to compromise the buttery Cornmeal’s peerless texture, many took the opportunity to add Sauce from Meatballs to the mix while others simply enjoyed the lightly packed Polpette steeped in Sauce on its own.
Making certain to save room for Pasta, an off-menu tray of Chef Trees’ housemade Rigatoni standing up nicely to housemade Sausage and Onions plus a bit of heat, it was by request that Dessert for twenty-five rounded out the spread, though after tasting one bite of smooth Panna Cotta with Roasted Peaches and fragrant Herbs it seems likely some staff did not get one because others smartly took seconds.
N/A: Making it blog policy to not ‘rate’ places based on catering alone, Esther’s Kitchen is nearly as impressive at the office as in the Arts District and Chef Winkelman deserves a lot of credit for taking on this task singlehandedly.
RECOMMENDED: Sourdough Crust Corn Pizza, House Ground Polenta, Polpette, Cheesecake Panna Cotta.
AVOID: N/A.
TIP: Corn Pizza just left the menu in a seasonal swap.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Pork Rosa Tamales – Sweet Corn Masa, Pork Chili Verde, Tomatillo Salsa
Tres Leches Cinnamon Roll – Strawberries, Cajeta
Mexican Chocolate Pot de Crème – Raspberries, Whipped Cream
Cheesecake Pops, Funfetti Cake Pops / S’mores Bites – Graham Crackers, Marshmallow, Chocolate Ganache / Mint S’mores Bites – Graham Crackers, Marshmallow, Chocolate Ganache, Mint / Peanut Butter S’mores Bites – Graham Crackers, Marshmallow, Chocolate Ganache, Peanut Butter
Salted Brown Butter Chocolate Chip Cookies
Strawberry Lemonade Blondie
With several companies and employees taking vacation during Las Vegas’ hot summer, it was on the final Tuesday of July that Pink Taco once again made a house-call, Chefs Manchester, Harden and Rodriguez all doing their part to create an unprecedented spread that delighted both staff and speakers.
Already an office favorite thanks to a trio of prior visits, this day’s expanded budget allowing even more creativity including several selections from Pink Taco’s upcoming menu, it was thanks to early arrival that everything was prepared and ready to serve by 11:30am, the professionalism of seasoned veterans never in question even though off-site catering is an infrequent part of The Hard Rock Hotel & Casino’s business.
Having already established several favorites amongst a heavily Hispanic staff, even hot Pink Tortillas not criticized “because they’re super fresh,” it was before Chefs could even exit the conference room that first shifters were assessing options, signature Chicken Tinga Tacos the first to go and quickly followed by Enchiladas smothered in housemade Mole that avoids the typical American mistake of being too sweet.
Happy to see Tortilla Salad for lighter lunchers, a smoky Vinaigrette playing well off individual Ingredients that become greater than the sum of their parts, Aguachiles also proved popular with more intense heat than what was offered at Brunch inside the Restaurant while Chorizo and Beef Meatballs were a precise replica made larger but still lightly formed and full of flavor.
Given the choice of fresh Corn or Flour Tortillas to make Al Pastor Tacos, condiments including Pico de Gallo, three Salsas and Guacamole all put to good use, it was alongside Rice perfumed by Cilantro that guests enjoyed Tinga Chicken Flautas and Pork Tamales, the Masa garnering approval from harsh critics, as did the Meat’s moisture and bold spice profile.
Eyeing Desserts from the beginning, and admittedly overindulging after some of each savory dish had been sampled, it was alongside Abuelita Pot de Crème with Raspberries that Cookies, Cake Pops and S’mores all delighted diners seeking something small, though for those unafraid of working the afternoon over-sated both FUEL Café’s Strawberry Lemonade Blondie and a ten-pound tray of Pink Taco’s soon-to-launch Tres Leches Cinnamon Roll made it happen.
N/A: Making it blog policy to not ‘rate’ places based on catering alone the team from Pink Taco has repeatedly set a high standard, every moment from arrival and on-site assembly to collecting their own serving dishes the following day an absolute class-act from start to finish, and on this day Chefs Brad Manchester, Mickey Harden and Hugo Rodriguez somehow managed to raise the bar even higher.
RECOMMENDED: Albóndiga, Aguachiles, Chicken Mole Enchiladas, Pink Taco, Al Pastor Taco, Pork Rosa Tamales, Tres Leches Cinnamon Roll, Salted Brown Butter Chocolate Chip Cookies, Strawberry Lemonade Blondie.
AVOID: N/A.
TIP: Call 702-693-4092 or email GroupDining@hrhvegas to arrange on-site parties or catering.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
From the day Beer Park opened at Paris Las Vegas Hotel & Casino its only flaw was Sin City itself, summer temperatures surpassing 110ᵒF simply uncomfortable even with misting fans, though such things recently became a moot point thanks to the addition of an indoor dining area occupying what was previously part of Chateau Nightclub.
Going strong since the start of 2016, April’s addition of ten Brunch items providing another facet to an experience built on Booze, Food, sports and fun, it was early-July that the long-rumored expansion finally opened its doors to guests, and although not yet 100% finished an early look suggests no expense was spared from comfortable seats and even more entertainment to a large bank of televisions that will soon be tuned to NFL Football and Golden Knights games.
Family friendly from the beginning, a novelty amongst Las Vegas Sports Bars where on-site gambling frequently necessitates “21+ Older” signs, it was after checking in with hostesses that four guests were seated at a spacious table, bubble hockey and arcade basketball hoops on either side for a few quarters while jumbo chess pieces and board games are available free of charge.
Built on Anheuser-Busch dollars, but tapping the talents of HeXX’s Matt Piekarski and Matthew Silverman plus Pitmaster Eddie Manukyan and Chef Carol Garcia for Food, it is targeting a wide range of tastes and diets that Beer Park’s current menu covers broad territory, though starters such as the whimsical Mac & Cheese Egg Rolls remain as gratuitously delicious today as they were on day one.
Brimming with Beer choices, but not lacking in terms of Cocktails including easy sippers like At The Buzzer and Badge Of Honor, it was as an alternative to Fries that “Loaded” Tater Tots were additionally selected to start the evening, all the ingredients contributing to the whole without overwhelming one another while Beer Park’s lightly-fried Pretzel continues to set a standard unrivaled by any other spot in town.
Well aware of Beer Park’s Barbeque program, but on this occasion opting to explore new items, it was beginning with a plate of marinated Chicken Breast that Beer Park showed its ability to please guests seeking something lighter than “Bar Food,” each element fresh and boldly flavored as were the accoutrements included with Carne Asada made from extra-lean Tri-Tip.
Opting for Onion Rings as an included Side Dish, thin cuts and light batter a welcomed change from those offered at the typical Las Vegas Sandwich spot, it was after watching Yolk cascade from top down that Beer Park’s Breakfast Burger was tackled carefully, the crisp Potato Patty an enjoyable addition that, along with Bacon and Cheese, helped mellow the spicy Aioli.
Happy to see a resurgence of Fish & Chips on local menus, this version featuring flaky Cod on par with Hardway 8’s stunning rendition despite the questionable inclusion of Crinkle Cut Fries, it is also great to know that Beer Park is finally now offering Dessert, HeXX’s Executive Pastry Chef Miranda Prince predictably serving nothing less than excellent whether it be Brookies that retain two distinct textures, Banana Pudding gussied up without compromising its classic nature or two styles of Gooey Butter Cake from which the “best” comes down to a personal preference for Vanilla or Citrus.
FIVE STARS: Already the best family-friendly place in town to watch sports, Beer Park’s recently-opened indoor dining area offers air conditioning and even more fun plus plenty of great new dishes to match a variety of dining styles.
RECOMMENDED: Mac & Cheese Egg Rolls, Fried Pretzel, Mediterranean Chicken, Breakfast Burger, Fish & Chips, Banana Pudding, Butter Cake.
AVOID: Crinkle Cut Fries…never a fan…and still not.
TIP: 11am-midnight Monday through Thursday, 11am-2am Friday, 9am-2am Saturday and 9am-midnight Sunday.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor
Acknowledging the rapid turnover of Las Vegas’ dining scene, a situation now equally prevalent in the community as on-Strip, it had been nearly eighteen months between visits when four guests sat down at Yardbird Southern Table & Bar on Saturday, the longtime Fried Chicken favorite still putting on a fine show while drawing glowing reviews from a steady crowd.
Now old enough to be considered a staple of Las Vegas Boulevard, Miami-based 50 Eggs having since expanded further west to Los Angeles and overseas to Singapore, it is approaching “Restaurant Row” from either The Venetian or Palazzo that guests are witnessed lining up, an entirely unique situation in comparison to The Factory Kitchen, Sugarcane or Chica which are each also open but virtually empty around noon.
Almost entirely overhauled from day one in terms of staff, a revolving door of Chefs likely attesting to the difficulties presented by big crowds and long hours while serving John Kunkel’s apparent goal of standardizing the menu for expansion, it is following a warm welcome that guests are led from podium to table, service still above average from captains to bussers who are frequently overheard saying “y’all.”
Louder than remembered, a packed house and overhead music creating an environment where guests must raise their voices to be heard, it was shortly after seating at room’s center that drinks were poured and menus navigated, Coffee with an array of sweeteners truly bottomless while Yardbird’s “Fried Green Tomato BLT” remains balanced and bold in terms of taste as well as texture.
Not about to miss “Mama’s Biscuits,” four somewhat lacking lamination explained-away by a new baker accidentally using the wrong Dough, it was both as part of “Biscuit & Gravy” as well as a to-go order that golden Buttermilk sheets were found enjoyable as ever, the former a bit skimpy with Sauce for $24, though that was easily remedied at no extra cost while Bacon, Egg, Cheese and Chicken all held up their end of the bargain.
Improved from previous as relates to both Fried Chicken and thick Nora Mill Grits, the “Lewellyn” signature offering more robust Herbs than memory serves, it is having 86ed “’77 Elvis Pancakes” that guests will now find “Blueberry Pie” in their place, the stack still tall and fluffy beneath plump Berries, but otherwise lacking in terms of creativity.
Turning things over to Pastry Chef Keris Kuwana from here, at this point one of Yardbird’s longest-tenured staff, suffice it to say that “State Fair Fry” is well-executed considering the Ingredients utilized while Butterscotch Cake remains remarkable from delicate Crumb to creamy Frosting, though rumor suggests it may be soon retired.
At this point sated but not stuffed, Yardbird’s portions typically large enough to share, it was as a surprise that Chef Kuwana additionally presented three upcoming items plus one old favorite, the Japanese Pancakes imagined as Bananas Foster – plus Pudding – entirely delicious and feather-light while Nutella-filled Beignets and Blackberry Sorbet were each enjoyable, but quickly forgotten in the wake of a made-to-order Cornmeal Chess Pie that guests never fully embraced despite being the very best of its kind.
THREE AND A HALF STARS: Although still good, it is difficult to remember the early days of Yardbird Southern Table & Bar as well as The Venetian without it, an entirely unique situation whereby everything including the crowds seem to have always been there despite very little about the staff or formulaic menu resembling what was originally so exciting.
RECOMMENDED: Fried Green Tomato BLT, Mama’s Biscuits, Lewellyn’s Fine Fried Chicken, Grits.
AVOID: The first batch of Biscuits was serious cause for concern, and Blueberry Pie Pancakes aren’t going to wow anyone at $16.
TIP: Butterscotch Cake is reportedly being discontinued soon while Chess Pie, Japanese Pancakes and Beignets were all off-menu gifts.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Cherry Variations, Japanese Cheese Cake, Cream Cheese, Lime, Graham Cracker Crumble
Although The Strip remains a destination for top Toques both foreign and domestic Las Vegas’ local dining scene has grown tremendously over the past five years, so when former “World’s Best Restaurant” Chef Daniel Humm and partner Will Guidara decided to bring their NoMad brand from Manhattan to Park MGM a rush to visit was resisted, instead giving the Restaurant and Bar a chance to develop their own unique identity.
Now eight months into the endeavor, NoMad Restaurant closed on Sunday and Monday while the Bar has eliminated Breakfast in favor of weekend-only Brunch, it was beginning with 5:45pm reservations at the latter that two guests were seated, floor-to-ceiling windows bathing tables as well as couches with light while staff patrolled the well-appointed room with pleasant professionalism.
Surely an expensive project, and subject to MGM Resorts International’s frustrating policy of not listing prices online, it was with Water poured that menus inaccurate to both Park MGM and NoMad websites were reviewed, a well-mannered server happy to offer recommendations inclusive of accurate portion sizes while bearing in mind a 7:00pm seating at the Restaurant across the hall.
Eventually settling on three plates to start, staff’s promise that the kitchen moves quickly proving true with Rilettes on the table in less than five minutes, fans of Dill will be more than happy with the creamy and smoky spread while a $26 Flatbread topped liberally with Summer Truffles was good but questionably priced, and likely better saved for Winter when Tuber melanosporum comes fresh from France.
Next presented with a Dry-Aged Beef Burger, not medium-rare as requested but nonetheless impressive (at approximately $3 per bite) thanks to a decadent grind and housemade Accoutrements, it was with plenty of time to spare that two more dishes were added, the boneless Chicken beautifully brined and battered next to tangy Dipping Sauce while NoMad’s signature “Humm Dog” justifies its $15 tab with snappy Sausage, a buttered Brioche Roll and Truffled Mayo that moves in harmony with Celery Relish and pickled Mustard.
Gifted a pair of Mocktails while passing time with conversation, Beverage Manager Christian Dinello later seen at NoMad Restaurant decanting Wine for a neighboring table, it was after settling the tab that a transition was made from Bar to Parlour to dining room, a looming library with low lighting that is undeniably breathtaking and easily one of Las Vegas’ most luxurious spaces.
Equal or better than the Bar in terms of geniality, Will Guidara’s Make It Nice ethos evident from podium to paying the check, it was after a quick description of artwork in the lobby that a curved leather booth was offered, posh cushioning and supple surface offering comfort for the next two hours that began promptly with complimentary Gruyere Cheese Popovers served with a ramekin of salted Butter.
Again sticking to signatures for the evening’s back-nine, a captain plus several servers and bussers making sure guests are never for want, it was perhaps twenty minutes after seating that Duck Liver marbled with Cherries arrived, flavors reminiscent of Eleven Madison Park 2008 rekindled by peerless technique and sweetness balanced cleverly with a brushstroke of lightly-salted Mustard Seeds.
Waiting another forty minutes for NoMad’s infamous Chicken, a dish $18 more expensive in 2019 than when first tasted seven years prior, fans and first-timers alike will be hard-pressed to name a more “Restaurant-worthy” piece of Poultry than this version perfumed by Truffles and Foie Gras, the fact that Legs and Thighs also arrive complete an added bonus while a Salad of Beans and Bitter Greens serves well in its role as a palate cleanser between bites.
Further impressed by Side Dishes, small in portion but far more fairly priced than those at Bavette’s or other Sin City Steakhouses, it was after devouring every bite of Creamy Corn and heavily truffled Potato that Dessert menus were presented, Milk & Honey still a standout nearly a decade after its invention thanks to the nostalgic remembrance of Honey Nut Cheerios while Carrot Cake and “Cherry” also both dabble in reconstruction with the former tangy more so than sweet and the latter a bit dry in terms of the Cake but otherwise enjoyable with no two bites the same.
THREE AND A HALF STARS (BAR), FOUR AND A HALF STARS (RESTAURANT): Fortunate to have experienced the food of Daniel Humm as far back as 2008, visits to Eleven Madison Park following each subsequent Michelin Star and attesting to improvement at any cost, it was finally this Wednesday that NoMad played host to celebratory dinner, both Bar and Restaurant shining with Will Guidara’s brand of hospitality while Food is predictably pricey but mostly justified and delicious.
AVOID: The Black Truffle Tart should be saved for Winter and a better Burger can be enjoyed on property at Bavette’s for just $4 more, at twice the size with really good Fries included.
TIP: Online menus on both websites are inaccurate, as is the one posted near a Rose cart entering NoMad Hotel from Park MGM.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
www.thenomadhotel.com/las-vegas/dining or www.nomadlasvegas.mgmresorts.com
Now inhabiting the block south of Spring Mountain Road on Fort Apache since just before Memorial Day, it was seeking something different for lunch that Cubanidad 1885 sparked interest, e-mails answered in a timely manner by Sam Chen making catering for twenty-five simple, though the portions that arrived were probably better suited for a group of forty.
Dubbed “the Ybor Original,” locations in Tampa Bay as well as Miami highly regarded for the Cuisine of Chef Dennis Martinez Miranda, it is inside recently constructed confines that guests will find tables juxtaposing a counter lined in Pastry, customer service not only efficient but pleasant and the order ready to go promptly at the time of Cubanidad’s 11:00am opening.
Packing everything in temperature-controlled containers, a fifteen minute drive to the office finding everything but Desserts and Sauces piping hot, it was with items unpacked that staff explored flavors novel yet familiar, several Hispanics quick to praise Empanadas packed with Ham and Cheese as well as Ropa Vieja that balances sweetness and heat with a tangy linger that can be amplified by Housemade Salsa.
A locally-owned import, Chef Miranda’s Cuban upbringing and professional training in Venezuela followed by Miami yielding products with big flavors as well as proper technique, it is great fortune for fans of Brandade, Baccala or even “Fish Sticks” that Cubanidad’s Coquettes match the quality of those seen throughout southern Florida, the fried Plantains equally oil-free with just a touch of Salt while “Puré de Boniato” sees Sweet Potatoes made into a velvety Mash with hints of what tastes like Molasses.
Hit-and-miss with Lechon Asado, the best bits those from the edge as they had taken up more of the roasting Juices and Citrus Rub, it was by adding Oil perfumed by Garlic and Cilantro that fattier cuts fared better, though nothing more was needed to make Cubanidad 1885’s Medianoche exemplary, the “Midnight Cuban” easily Las Vegas’ best iteration from lightly sweetened Brioche to Pickles, Pork and Homemade Mustard Sauce.
Not about to skip Dessert, the housemade Flan darkened by nearly-burnt Sugar stunning at merely $1.50 per round, Tres Leches is mostly forgettable at a similar price while Pastelitios for a quarter more are better than those at any local Panaderia thanks to Butter-laminated Pastry nearly bursting with Guava Jam and melted Cream Cheese.
N/A: Making it blog policy to not ‘rate’ places based on catering alone, Cubanidad put on a very impressive display in terms of customer service and preparedness while the product served far outperforms the modest price point.
AVOID: Large orders of the Lechon Asado seem compromised by the Mojo Rub poorly penetrating center cuts.
TIP: Online Ordering available by Yelp! with delivery fulfilled by Grubhub, Doordash and Postmates. See weekly ValPak for coupons and check-in for free Tres Leches.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
12oz Grilled Double R Ranch Ribeye, Roasted Potatoes
Double Espresso, Ice
Baba au Rhum with Blueberries, Tiramisu, Chocolate-Raspberry Tart, Chocolate Gelato
Whether modern times respect Steve Wynn or not is irrelevant, without his contributions Las Vegas would unlikely be what it is today, and on Saturday night the eponymous resort now run by ex-wife Elaine again showed well from the spectacle of XS Nightclub to the underappreciated Italian Cuisine of Chef Enzo Febbraro at Allegro.
Now part of the Wynn-Encore complex since 2012, Alex Stratta’s departure opening a door for what is currently the property’s closest approximation of an “all-night” eatery, it is beginning at 5:00pm on weekdays and an hour earlier on weekends that guests are welcome in the main dining room, its proximity to both gaming and garage largely unnoticeable from all but a few tables.
Enjoyed once previously four years prior, the Food that Enzo learned to cook in his native Naples a combination of rustic and refined with the broad appeal necessary for resort clientele, it was with Chef Febbraro currently overseas that Allegro was found bustling, a Sous named Amanda on the line at 9:00pm with she and her team in the process of cooking for at least a hundred guests, plus a soon-arriving surge from Encore Theater.
Maintaining a collection of classics alongside seasonal updates, $15-23 for Appetizers and $28-49 for Mains a veritable bargain in comparison to the prices at SW Steakhouse or Mizumi, it was opting for the Chef’s tasting that trust was placed in Allegro’s tiny kitchen, a basket featuring two styles of Bread not the best beginning as both a Tomato Roll and sliced Ciabatta were dry and an unjustified use of stomach space even after being dipped in garlicky Olive Oil.
Quick to improve, a modified version of Allegro’s Caprese Salad adding Prosciutto to housemade Burrata and Heirloom Tomatoes, it was alongside this that Octopus with light char found balance in snappy vegetables and Citrus, the simultaneously presented Margherita Pizza also enjoyable thanks to vibrant Sauce and creamy Cheese atop a Crust that is truly “Cracker-thin.”
Up-selling their Meatballs, a different presentation than 2015 making “Signature” status questionable even though the blend of Beef and Pork is exquisitely tender, it should come as no surprise that all Pasta is made on-site, tubes of Paccheri currently offered al dente with a plethora of Crab plus Pesto while ribbons of Pappardelle stand up nicely to hearty Pink Sauce cooked down slowly with Pork and Chili Peppers.
Skipping four types of Parmigiana, everything from Gardein Chick’n with Vegan Mozz to a $49 Veal Chop available, it was instead with Mediterranean Sea Bass and Steak cooked medium that savories concluded, each simple yet satisfying while sweets saw Gelato, Tiramisu and a Chocolate-Raspberry Tart all good but the Baba au Rhum again an unassuming spotlight-stealer thanks to plenty of booze but enough Whipped Cream and Fruit to make it work.
FOUR AND A HALF STARS: Formal but not stuffy, familiar yet willing to take chances and still serving “more than a quarter million guests” yearly despite the shutter of Italian stalwarts at both ends of Las Vegas Boulevard, Allegro remains the same treasure it was described as in 2015, even with the Chef on vacation and the dining room near maximum capacity.
RECOMMENDED: Burrata, Grilled Octopus, Signature Meatballs, Pappardelle Pasta, Paccheri Pasta, Baba au Rhum.
AVOID: The Bread Basket is a pale imitation of its former self and Beverage markups are no less aggressive than the rest of Wynn’s Restaurants.
TIP: Just steps from free Self-Parking, Bar opens at 3:00pm daily with Dinner served Monday through Friday from 5:00pm to 6:00am and on Weekends from 4:00pm.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Chop Salad – Spinach, Arugula, Salami, Ham, Banana Peppers, Tomatoes, Olives, Mozzarella, Vinaigrette
Cheese Tortellini – Spinach, White Pork Ragu
Chicken Parmesan – Mozzarella Cheese, Naked City Red Sauce, Parmigiano Reggiano
Fremont Street Pizza – House Italian Sausage, Banana Peppers, Mozzarella, Ricotta, Parmesan, White Garlic Sauce, Seasoned Breadcrumbs
Pepperoni Pizza – Mozzarella, Naked City Red Sauce, Cup n’ Char Pepperoni
Double Espresso – Ice
Michael’s Danishes – Apple Cinnamon, Almond, Banana Nutella
Established in 2009 by two brothers from Buffalo, the ensuing decade marked by ups and downs including an appearance on “Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives” as well as the sudden shutter of an innovative Tavern, it was as a group of nine that lunch was enjoyed inside The Naked City Pizza Shop at El Cortez, both Christopher and Michael Palmeri present with ideas old as well as new.
Now part of DTLV for nineteen months, a location in the back corner of Sin City’s longest continuously operating Casino slow to gain traction, it is beginning early that guests can stop by for Coffee and Pastries baked by Michael, though the real action begins at 11:00am when daily slices emerge oven-fresh alongside a collection of Salads, Appetizers, whole Pies and recently introduced Pastas.
Always seeking to build the brand, Chris’ years in fine dining combined with hard work at the Restaurants, Speedway, Stadium and EDC telling of a Chef with both passion and foresight, it was quickly after seating that drinks were poured, the arrival of Bread moments later a testament to Michael’s developing skills as each Roll was soft and yeasty with a delicate crumb equally amiable to housemade Herb Butter or Burrata.
Dining family-style, an oversized Chop Salad presented next with a multitude of ingredients melded together by tangy Vinaigrette, it was taking care not to overindulge early that some was packed for home, an ensuing tray of breaded-to-order Chicken Parm and springy Tortellini topped in hearty Pork Ragu each offering the sort of rustic flavor associated with “Red Sauce” joints across America, but a touch more refined.
Not about to pass on Naked City’s Pizzas, one sheet each of classic Pepperoni and El Cortez’s signature “Fremont Street” delivered piping-hot, it was with only five slices – and no corners – remaining that many white flags were raised, though for those who’d saved some room a real treat awaited in Michael’s Danishes featuring tender Cinnamon Apples, Almond Frangipane or a smooth blend of Bananas and Nutella.
FOUR AND A HALF STARS: With five locations around Las Vegas and Henderson there is probably a Naked City Pizza Shop not too far from most citizens of the 702, and no matter which one is closest the results are almost universally impressive thanks to Chris and Michael Palmeri’s continuous commitment to constant improvement without ever resting on their laurels.
AVOID: Although not cloying like so many items made with Frangipane, the Almond Pastries were a little dry and would benefit from ground Nut filling or a bit more Butter than the others. Also, no Fries at the El Cortez location.
TIP: Main menu from 11:00a till 10:00p Sunday through Thursday, and until 3:00am on Friday as well as Saturday. See details online as choices differ from location to location.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
My 3 Best Friends – Triple Decker Waffle, Brown Sugar Gelato, Peanut Butter, Hot Fudge, Strawberry Sauce, Cashews, Graham Cracker, Fresh Fruit, Chantilly Cream
Perhaps dumb luck, or the unlikely result of having recently seen former Chef Daniel Ontiveros at Scotch 80 Prime, but whatever the reason it was Thursday evening that two guests sat down to dinner at Therapy. exactly four years (to the day) after the first time, though much has changed both for the Restaurant and DTLV since.
Now old enough to be considered one of East Fremont’s staple eateries, the lengthy build-out of a space formerly housing a Dollar Store still looking fresh and attracting crowds of tourists for both Food and Drink, it is under the direction of General Manager Maria Horta that day-to-day activities are coordinated, and thanks to the spaces’ “Relapse Nightclub” those hours frequently extend well past midnight.
Offering lunch and dinner, plus recently weekend Brunch, it was at the tail-end of Happy Hour that business began to pick up, service friendly yet professional while offering their suggestions as well as thorough explanations of plates from recently promoted Executive Chef Chris Robyn.
Originally themed as a gastro-pub, but since taking on global influences spanning from Mexico to the Native American Cuisine Chris has been cooking for several years as a corporate Chef for one of the Nation’s largest casino groups, it is rightfully with Cocktails that many nights at Therapy. begin, both a $12 Mango Ricky and frozen Pina Colada performing well and pairing nicely to the “Signature Salad” of Apples, Candied Nuts and mixed Greens plus Bleu Cheese.
Still maintaining several day one dishes, both Devils on Horseback and tender Chicken Meatballs highlighted by vibrant housemade Sauces, it was unfortunate that “Birria” Empanadas featuring Beef rather than Goat were strictly one note inside over-thick Pastry, though “Fred & Mark’s” Croquettes offered three fun bites thanks to fried Pasta topped in smooth Sriracha with a sweet and savory reduction beneath.
Moving next to “Creamy & Crabby,” at $17 not cheap but entirely justified by its sharable size and plenty of freshly picked Meat, suffice it to say that time plus an appearance on “The Travel Channel” have seen Chicken & Waffle Sliders improve tremendously in terms of taste and texture, though if one is looking for Therapy.’s best dish that honor still belongs to “In The Gnudi” with creamy gobs of Ricotta made sticky with Figs.
Not about to forget Chef Robyn’s years as Corporate Executive Chef for Bachi Burger, The “Big Sexy” featuring eight ounces of expertly-cooked Wagyu on a springy Bun with Brie and Scallion Mayonnaise, it is in strong competition with The Kitchen at Atomic that Therapy.’s Pork Chop finds itself for best in town, though the “Mustard Mash” can at times be a bit overpowering.
Onward to Dessert, and showing off Indian Fry Bread served as part of the recently-debuted “Senor Shorty” en route, Therapy. currently features two old and two new sweets, the Campfire S’mores in cast iron decidedly rich in comparison to deconstructed Carrot Cake that rivals any in Sin City, though the real showstopper is titled “My 3 Best Friends” and features Chocolate, Peanut Butter and Strawberry Belgian Waffles heaped with nine scoops of Brown Sugar Gelato plus a trio of Sauces, Nuts, Fruit and Whipped Cream.
FOUR STARS: Somewhat forgotten with the abundance of recent openings in Las Vegas, Therapy. nonetheless continues to lure in guests with fair prices and food that doesn’t take itself too seriously. Still a little too “everything to everyone,” at least part of that the result of a revolving door of toques, the promotion of Chris Robyn to Executive Chef promises good things to come given his interest in both Hawaiian and Native American culture.
RECOMMENDED: Signature Salad, Devils on Horseback, Creamy & Crabby, In the Gnudi, Duroc Chop, Crumbled Carrot Cake, My 3 Best Friends.
AVOID: Birria Empanadas, ordering My 3 Best Friends without at least three friends at the table.
TIP: Open Sunday through Thursday from 10:30am to 11:00pm, Friday & Saturday 10:30am till midnight with Relapse Nightclub continuing until 4:00am Tuesday through Saturday after closing.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
