Les Petites Canailles
2018 Louise Brison ‘Cotes des Bar’ Champagne
Gougere
Oyster, Garlic Flower, Kumquat Mignonette
Pea Tartelette, Caviar, Smoked Cream
Bougie Tots – Chives, Creme Fraiche, Caviar
Steak Tartare – Wagyu Hanger Steak, Confit Egg Yolk, Grilled Wayward Bread
Leeks à la Plancha – Herb Vinaigrette, Pinenuts, Espelette Pepper
Tarte Flambée – Lardons, Fromage Blanc, Gruyère Cheese
Peas All Around – Pea Purée, Pea Salad, 64˚ Egg, Green Garlic
Escargot Risotto – Carnoroli Rice, Parsley, Garlic Butter
Moules-Frites Hortense – Spicy ‘Nduja, Garlic Confit, Fresh Herbs
“Joël Robuchon” Pomme Purée
Strawberries & Pistachio – Pistachio Cake, Strawberry Variations, Whipped Ganache, Toasted Pistachio
Financier – Almond Ice Cream, Cherries, Lemon Verbena
Mango Pate de Fruit
Opened in November of 2019 Les Petites Canailles sees former Guy Savoy Chef Julien Asseo and his wife Courtney operating under their own rules, white tablecloths replaced by a more casual sort of spot where the Food and service are still exceptional at a modest price point.
Part of a growing collection of locally-driven eateries on Spring Street, downtown Paso Robles nearly so charming as Asseo’s hometown in Southern France, the Restaurant named after his “little rascals” actually represents something of a homecoming for the Chef whose father helped pioneer local winemaking at L’Aventure.
Trained outside Bordeaux before returning to work with the likes of Rick Moonen, Joel Robuchon and Guy Savoy in Las Vegas, Julien’s considerable skill-set on full display at Les Petites Canailles, guests are invited to dine a la carte or to “Trust Us” with a 6-course tasting for $125.
“Fancy-casual” per the husband and wife team, a collection of Wines ranging from Krug to locally made Caliza Grenache earning distinction from Wine Specator, dinner begins with properly made Gougeres followed by one-bite Canapes including an Oyster with Kumquat and Pea Tartelette crowned in Caviar.
Adding a few daily specials, “Bougie Tots” the very definition of fancy-casual, Steak Tartare features a fine grind and traditional flavors while Tarte Flambée emerges from the oven Cracker thin and with all the tang of Fromage Blanc to make it feel like a trip to Paris.
Clearly taking notes from his mentors, Pomme Purée a la Robuchon an eponymous homage served with Gravy, in the know diners will not miss “Peas All Around” cribbed from Guy Savoy with even more nuance while Leeks à la Plancha are an Asseo-original worthy of signature status.
Sticking more to Appetizers on this visit to maximize variety, though Mussels with a kiss of Calabrian Sausage proved too compelling to miss, Escargot Risotto is generously portioned and faultless in texture before finishing with Desserts including “Strawberries & Pistachio” that remind guests that Julien started out in Pastry.
www.lpcrestaurant.com

