Valencian Gold
The Prince of Toledo – Gin, Saffron, Rose, Membrillo, Cava
Croquettas – Chicken, Jamon, Egg
Bombas de Queso – Fried Cheese, Truffle Honey
Pan de Aceite – Queso del Pastor, Olives
Gazpacho – Tomato, Cucumber, Garlic, Pepper
Foie Gras Rice Krispie Treats – Goat Cheese Icing
NYC Tortilla – Egg, Potatoes, Bacon
Pan con Tomate
Rabo Bar Fries – Braised Oxtail, Tetilla
La Fonda 1961 Potatoes – Blue Cheese, Onions
Incontro, Iberico, Honey Butter, Peppers, Sourdough, Triscuit
Chorizo Casero – Grilled House Chorizo, Sherry Mustard
Catalan Greens
Pim Pam Pulpo – Peppers, Onions
Bullfighter’s Steak – Day off Peppers
All of the Sins Paella – Tomatoes, Green Peppers, Grilled Corn, Chorizo, Corn Crema, Shrimp
Guiri Dates – Bacon Mojo, Blue Cheese
VG Flan – Bay Leaf, Orange
Dark Chocolate Bizcocho, Lemon Cream
Goat Cheese Basque Cheesecake, Wood Roasted Berries
Located in the Southwest Marketplace off Rainbow Boulevard, Valencian Gold spent most of last year making Bagels or biding time, but in mid-August 2021 the former “Spanish fast-casual” spot reopened as a more complete concept focused on Tapas, Paella and Cocktails.
Owned and operated by Chef Jeffrey Weiss, now a solo act assisted by new recruits, it was just prior to 5:30pm that three guests approached a familiar façade, though the inside has undergone substantial upgrades including pounded tins amidst tile, murals of Salvador Dali and a beautiful open kitchen with live fire toward the back.
Benefitted by extensive training, Chef Weiss previously awarded an Institute of Culinary Education scholarship to train overseas before authoring “Soul of Spain,” it was after warm greetings that diners were seated, The White Stripes playing from overhead speakers while “Paella for the People” glowed in neon over plants.
Assisted by former b.B.d’s General Manager Gil Hayon, with a front of house already outpacing other Off-Strip Restaurants around for years, it was while Monty Python sought the Holy Grail silently that guests were guided through an extensive menu, $10 Cocktails a bonafide bargain highlighted by The Prince of Toledo whose herbaceous notes pair well to Truffled Honey Cheese Balls and sumptuous Croquettas filled with Ham, Chicken and Egg.
Fortunate to have catered from Chef Weiss on Monday, housemade “Spanish Focaccia” with Queso del Pastor even better on-site, it was as the crowd grew that traditional Gazpacho was poured from a Genie’s Lamp tableside to refresh the palate preceding unctuous Foie Gras Rice Krispie Treats and a “NYC Tortilla” that sees tradition set aside for Bacon and Barrel-aged Hot Sauce.
Seamlessly shifting from traditional to modern, much like the Food found in Tapas Bars throughout Barcelona, Pan con Tomate arrives precisely as it is served in centuries-old Restaurants while “Rabo Bar Fries” take on Poutine alongside New York’s “La Fonda 1961 Potatoes” that eat like a Latke teeming with Blue Cheese.
Slowing down for Charcuterie, only the best including 100% Acorn-Fed Ibérico Ham, be certain to order at least one seared slice of Chef Weiss’ housemade “Chorizo Casero” before moving on to spicy Greens, crunchy yet tender Octopus and $13 bargain “Bullfighter’s Steak.”
Able to order from servers or via online app accessed via QR Code, it was having already tasted three of Valencia Gold’s Paellas that this visit included “All of the Sins,” an entirely untraditional take with diverse textures including Tomatoes, Corn and Chorizo that all standout against both soft Rice and Socarrat.
Turning a Spanish colloquialism into a crave-worthy dish via Guiri Dates (because who’s going to argue with a guy flashing his flamethrower in the kitchen?,) Dessert could easily comprise nothing but imported Cheeses, but that would certainly be ill-advised considering Valencian Gold’s signature Flan, feather-light Bizcocho and world-class Basque Cheesecake with subtle char and Sugar in perfect harmony.
FOUR AND A HALF STARS: Chef Weiss has reinvented something unique and delicious with Valencian Gold, and although the location may be obscure to some its flavors, price point and creativity should be enough to make the Restaurant a destination.
RECOMMENDED: Bombas de Queso, Pan de Aceite, Queso del Pastor, Foie Gras Rice Krispie Treats, Chorizo Casero, Bullfighter’s Steak, All of the Sins Paella, Guiri Dates, Dark Chocolate Bizcocho, Basque Cheesecake.
AVOID: The Catalan Greens were overwhelmed by heat, and there is nothing subtle about La Fonda 1961 Potatoes if you don’t love Blue Cheese (as noted by 2/3 of the table.)
TIP: Open 4p-9p Wednesday and Sunday, 4p-10p Thursday through Saturday. Reservations recommended.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
www.valenciangold.com

